Official Sony VPL-HW30(A)ES Owners Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

...The only other thing I could think of is if the glasses might be losing their charger (I haven't charged them at all since receiving them)....
Thanks!

Lithium Ion's love to be charged often and have the best life if never ran *dead.

*You do need to run dead every couple of months or at least twice a year to calibrate the complex charging control circuits.
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post #632 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by zfc6e View Post

Hi,
I ordered Sony HW30es without emitter and galsses (mistake). What's my options for no-sony galsses and emitter. Some people here psoted that XpanD X103 works, do I need to order Sony TMRPJ1 or other emitter. Any other glasses works with Sony HW30es?
Thanks in advance

Zongfu Chen
Pittsburgh, PA

So the HW30ES is now available? If so the glasses/emitter should also be available. So far they are the only ones shown to work well (low x-talk) with the HW30ES. Also you will need the emitter since it uses a ethernet connection that others emitters don't have.
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post #633 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfc6e View Post

Hi,
I ordered Sony HW30es without emitter and galsses (mistake). What's my options for no-sony galsses and emitter. Some people here psoted that XpanD X103 works, do I need to order Sony TMRPJ1 or other emitter. Any other glasses works with Sony HW30es?
Thanks in advance

Zongfu Chen
Pittsburgh, PA

at the minimum, you will need the new Sony emitter since it uses a unique RJ45 connection. Most 3D projectors to date have been using the 3 Pin VESA port as a stanard.
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post #634 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post

Lithium Ion's love to be charged often and have the best life if never ran *dead.

*You do need to run dead every couple of months or at least twice a year to calibrate the complex charging control circuits.

Also, it says to use cat7 or something. Im running it fine with cat 6 about 20 feet. Maybe you have a crappy cat5e cable. The signal that Sony is pumping through could be too strong for a long cat5e run and causing interference?

I'd try avatar again and if u have problems, swap out or cat6
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post #635 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 12:10 PM
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My replacement Sony just arrived! Hopefully it is quieter than the previous and doesn't have focus issues
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post #636 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

Also, it says to use cat7 or something. Im running it fine with cat 6 about 20 feet. Maybe you have a crappy cat5e cable. The signal that Sony is pumping through could be too strong for a long cat5e run and causing interference?

I'd try avatar again and if u have problems, swap out or cat6

I doubt that's what it is (although it did cross my mind), as I originally used a cat5 cable before I got a new one for my permanent install.

I think my current plan of troubleshooting will be this:

1. Try Avatar
2. If problem persists, Charge glasses, try both sources
3. If problem persists, Try different cable

XBL GT: DMBFiredancer
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post #637 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 12:32 PM
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Got my 30 today.
Just time enough to hook it up and watch for a few.
I notice facing the projector the left side exhaust blows a lot more than the right side. Right side is very faint blowing.
Is this normal??
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post #638 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan33 View Post

Got my 30 today.
Just time enough to hook it up and watch for a few.
I notice facing the projector the left side exhaust blows a lot more than the right side. Right side is very faint blowing.
Is this normal??

Yes.
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post #639 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan33 View Post

Got my 30 today.
Just time enough to hook it up and watch for a few.
I notice facing the projector the left side exhaust blows a lot more than the right side. Right side is very faint blowing.
Is this normal??

I'm not sure about the exhaust, I'll check next time I turn it on. But I did notice the right side vent area gets much hotter than the left side.
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post #640 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 01:32 PM
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Thanks a lot for your responses. I'll order the sony Emitter and give Xpand X103 a try. The new sony galsses is not available or way too expensvie.
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post #641 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfc6e View Post

Thanks a lot for your responses. I'll order the sony Emitter and give Xpand X103 a try. The new sony galsses is not available or way too expensvie.

The Sony glasses should MSRP @ $129 which isn't bad. Similar to the Monster Vision 3D glasses and a bit more than the 103's. I hope Sony gets these out there soon.
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post #642 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 01:55 PM
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My new Unit is much quieter than my previous. A tad louder than the one at best buy, just just marginally, and the focus appears fine on this new one. One of the first things I tried was 3D, and i set the IR to 1 from 0, and the glasses flickered on and off, thought something might be busted, but set it back to 0 and was flawless again. I'm going to watch like 30 minutes of avatar before i send my old unit back just in case...
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post #643 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 04:59 PM
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I demoed this projector at Best Buy yesterday. The viewing was on a 92" Black Diamond screen. I turned all the lights off, TVs off, and closed the doors. A little light came through the tinted doors but not too bad. I would say the black levels of this projector on the black diamond screen were about what my JVCRS2 is on my Dalite HP screen. While I was there I took a 12" sample of the 2.8 gain HP material and when standing the pic was very bright. However, unlike others noted it seemed to me that the black levels raised much more than what they did on my setup at home. Enough so that I wouldn't want this as my next projector being a black fanatic and wanting to keep my Dalite HP material.

However, 3D looked really good. Much better than I saw in the theater and on past TVs I've watched in stores. For me the big turn off to 3D was cross talk/ghosting and I didn't really see much of this on the Sony and it impressed me enough to get me interested in 3D even though this projector won't be the one for me.
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post #644 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post

I demoed this projector at Best Buy yesterday. The viewing was on a 92" Black Diamond screen. I turned all the lights off, TVs off, and closed the doors. A little light came through the tinted doors but not too bad. I would say the black levels of this projector on the black diamond screen were about what my JVCRS2 is on my Dalite HP screen. While I was there I took a 12" sample of the 2.8 gain HP material and when standing the pic was very bright. However, unlike others noted it seemed to me that the black levels raised much more than what they did on my setup at home. Enough so that I wouldn't want this as my next projector being a black fanatic and wanting to keep my Dalite HP material.

However, 3D looked really good. Much better than I saw in the theater and on past TVs I've watched in stores. For me the big turn off to 3D was cross talk/ghosting and I didn't really see much of this on the Sony and it impressed me enough to get me interested in 3D even though this projector won't be the one for me.

I have the RS50 (similar light output as your RS2 w/ better blacks) and the Hw30, both on a 2.8 HP screen. Something must have been way off on the calibration of that demo you saw, maybe they had the iris turned off.

Some employee probably cranked up the brightness controls or messed with the gamma settings because the out of the box settings are about as good as it gets without a full calibration.

If you in my viewing room and had a chance to see both side by side, calibrated, you'd see there isn't much the HW30 is leaving behind by comparison to a 2x more expensive JVC in regard to the black floor. I watched 'X-men 1st class and Thor' first on the JVC and again tonight on the Sony. Both look great on 2.8HP, but with the Sony - scenes are brighter and feel there is a bit of advantage of mixed contrast scenes for the Sony.

I've been so busy with the Sony that my JVC was sitting idle for a while. I am moving it a smaller ~ 110 2.4HP screen soon to live out it's elder years. The HW30 get's the 142" 2.8HP (last of it's kind: RIP 2.8HP) for now. Maybe until the Mitsubishi HC7800 comes along, this looks like an interesting projector out of all upcoming models.
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post #645 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post


I have the RS50 (similar light output as your RS2 w/ better blacks) and the Hw30, both on a 2.8 HP screen. Something must have been way off on the calibration of that demo you saw, maybe they had the iris turned off.

Some employee probably cranked up the brightness controls or messed with the gamma settings because the out of the box settings are about as good as it gets without a full calibration.

If you in my viewing room and had a chance to see both side by side, calibrated, you'd see there isn't much the HW30 is leaving behind by comparison to a 2x more expensive JVC in regard to the black floor. I watched 'X-men 1st class and Thor' first on the JVC and again tonight on the Sony. Both look great on 2.8HP, but with the Sony - scenes are brighter and feel there is a bit of advantage of mixed contrast scenes for the Sony.

I've been so busy with the Sony that my JVC was sitting idle for a while. I am moving it a smaller ~ 110 2.4HP screen soon to live out it's elder years. The HW30 get's the 142" 2.8HP (last of it's kind: RIP 2.8HP) for now. Maybe until the Mitsubishi HC7800 comes along, this looks like an interesting projector out of all upcoming models.

So, is the Sony better in 2D than the RS50 for you?
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post #646 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 08:01 PM
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So I just went through a bunch of movies with the wife, and first movie was 3D avatar, she instantly said, "colors look off". And they are... we had to crank the color setting on the new unit to 65 to look as blue as the previous unit. This caused us to have to go mess with a bunch of different settings. I hooked the other one up again before I sent it off, and it had better colors and contrast. This new unit , like I said, I had to crank the color up to 65, and watching dark city, I couldn't see much.

I wish I could have the other unit with the quiet fan!

Are these issues something I can likely fix with calibration? If so, is this something I can do on my own? If so, any good guides out there for this kinda thing? Theres way too settings for me to fiddle with to try and get this right by just eyeballing it. Kinda sucks, because my other unit I'd say was almost perfect right out of the box. 2D and 3D both looked great on every movie I tried. This new one, seems I need color at 55 for 2D and 65 for 3D for avatar, 55 for despicable me...

Any help would be appreicated. I'm kinda disappointed now. I was so excited earlier when I got the new unit and the fan wasn't making a high pitched queel, now I'm worried theres something else wrong.
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post #647 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

So, is the Sony better in 2D than the RS50 for you?

it's hard to say definitively.. it's just my observations. Each excels in different areas, but the Sony is really nice out of the box. To be fair, my original RS40 has better OOTB settings in comparison to my RS50. With 2 different lamps, I immediately had to calibrate it to D65, reducing lumens right from the start.

The Sony reminds me of the RS40 more so than the RS50, especially in regard to brightness which I was fine with on the RS40 (not on the RS50 though..)

I do think the Sony motion flow is better (less noticeable) than the JVC, so there are some events I like to watch in 2D using low motion flow that adds to the overall IQ for me. 3D on the Sony is better than the RS40 and RS50 in regard to ghosting in difficult scenes. No warm up time by comparison and ghosting with 3D bluray content is far and few between in comparison. This is a good 2nd generation attempt at nailing down ghost-free 3D for LCOS projectors. This is none existent with the DLP's so it will be curious to see how the new projectors will compete against the Mitsubishi 7800 and the Optoma 8300. They should have near-flawless 1080P 3D playback, regardless of frame packed or SBS content.

competition is good, JVC should be coming out soon with guns blazing considering how busy this 3-5k price category is going to be soon.
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post #648 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

Any help would be appreicated. I'm kinda disappointed now. I was so excited earlier when I got the new unit and the fan wasn't making a high pitched queel, now I'm worried theres something else wrong.

If you still have both, you can swap lamps to see if that has any impact on the IQ of the replacement. There can be wide variances with UHP lamps and the default settings in the projector. It can't hurt and might answer some of your questions in regard to the discrepancy between the 2 projectors.
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post #649 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 08:24 PM
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I've been impressed with the Sony, but have no comparison with previous projectors. As for black levels, I've been very impressed with the Sony. Comparing it to my old Pioneer 5070HD, the blacks are superior. I do think some of the details do get lost with the iris, but the image pops so well off the screen, I feel it is a good trade off.

I'm using a hand me down Da-Lite Screen model C... so it may be my setup that is leading to the darker blacks and loss of detail, but I am a very happy camper.
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post #650 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 08:46 PM
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Few thoughts on my 30 after only a few hours. Coming from a JVC 250 the Sony is not as bright with lamp low as the 250 using low lamp aperture 2. I had 800 hours on my JVC and had just switched to aperture 3 before selling. I use a HP screen (2.4) so I use high on the lamp on the Sony and get the brightness I want. Fan noise goes up a little but even with the projector 8" above my head, not a problem. The blacks and picture quality seem on par with the 250 out of the box. I did lower the contrast to 85 to my liking using gamma 3 with other settings to default. Like the motionflow (reason for the switch) as I watch a lot of sports. Did put in a few BD as I may use low lamp for BD but not sure yet.
This Sony has 3D?
Don't care for it. (Jason let me know if you are still interested in some 3D specs.)
I like it so far. Hoping the bulb will not dim too fast running it on high so often.
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post #651 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I have the RS50 (similar light output as your RS2 w/ better blacks) and the Hw30, both on a 2.8 HP screen. Something must have been way off on the calibration of that demo you saw, maybe they had the iris turned off.

Some employee probably cranked up the brightness controls or messed with the gamma settings because the out of the box settings are about as good as it gets without a full calibration.

If you in my viewing room and had a chance to see both side by side, calibrated, you'd see there isn't much the HW30 is leaving behind by comparison to a 2x more expensive JVC in regard to the black floor. I watched 'X-men 1st class and Thor' first on the JVC and again tonight on the Sony. Both look great on 2.8HP, but with the Sony - scenes are brighter and feel there is a bit of advantage of mixed contrast scenes for the Sony.

I've been so busy with the Sony that my JVC was sitting idle for a while. I am moving it a smaller ~ 110 2.4HP screen soon to live out it's elder years. The HW30 get's the 142" 2.8HP (last of it's kind: RIP 2.8HP) for now. Maybe until the Mitsubishi HC7800 comes along, this looks like an interesting projector out of all upcoming models.

I read your review and see you have a number of your projectors at your disposal and what I saw surprised me. When I viewed the Sony I put it in Cinema 1 with the default settings and I think I chose low power for the lamp. When I compare the black areas of my HP in my room to a non-gain screen the difference is very small but the difference at BB was pretty significant. Can the Black Diamond screen make black levels darker? My sample is 12x12 and it was being held and it's possibly that the sample wasn't perfectly level with the screen so maybe that threw things off a little. I was definitely expecting a little bit of a difference but not quite what I saw.
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post #652 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

If you still have both, you can swap lamps to see if that has any impact on the IQ of the replacement. There can be wide variances with UHP lamps and the default settings in the projector. It can't hurt and might answer some of your questions in regard to the discrepancy between the 2 projectors.

No, I turned it in to fedex already now. I write my post and forgot to hit submit a couple hours before I wrote it. I have the colors to a more acceptable level now, but I really have zero clue as to what I'm doing for calibration. Any good guides out there for calibrating a projector?
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post #653 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 09:50 PM
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Found issue, see bottom.

Umm... on my new projector under 3D I only see simulated and over/under... do you have to do something to enable side by side as an option? My other projector just had it originally...

Just to be clear. In the function menu, under 3D Settings, chose 3D, and I used to get 3 options:

Simulated 3D
Side-by-Side
Over-Under

Now the menu just shows:
Simulated 3D
Over-Under

OK, I got the option to appear. I changed my screen resolution from 1080p 24fps to 1080p 60fps, and the side by side option appeared.
The manual doesn't say anything about side by side not allowed under certain circumstances. At least it doesn't say it where that option is. Maybe it's burried somewhere.
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post #654 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

Umm... on my new projector under 3D I only see simulated and over/under... do you have to do something to enable side by side as an option? My other projector just had it originally...

Just to be clear. In the function menu, under 3D Settings, chose 3D, and I used to get 3 options:

Simulated 3D
Side-by-Side
Over-Under

Now the menu just shows:
Simulated 3D
Over-Under

The manual doesn't say anything about side by side not allowed under certain circumstances

SBS doesn't seem to be supported at 1080/24p according to the manual. Tried to play Crysis2 on the HTPC in 3d and got two side by side images and the menu without a SBS setting like you mention.
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post #655 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 10:12 PM
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SBS doesn't seem to be supported at 1080/24p according to the manual. Tried to play Crysis2 on the HTPC in 3d and got two side by side images and the menu without a SBS setting like you mention.

Ya, I finally found somewhere in the manual that mentions it. They should really put a footnote in the manual, and just grey out the menu item when not available. I thought my new unit had some wierd firmware version or something for a while there. I was actually hoping it did since my colors are off... I think I fixed it though, need to find a good calibration guide though for the projector.
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post #656 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

No, I turned it in to fedex already now. I write my post and forgot to hit submit a couple hours before I wrote it. I have the colors to a more acceptable level now, but I really have zero clue as to what I'm doing for calibration. Any good guides out there for calibrating a projector?

a good place to start is Kal's primer on calibration. it's not for any one specific projector, just discusses the fundamentals of calibrating a display.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Calibrating with a meter and software is straightforward with some of the software packages out there like Tom's Chromapure product. it's an easy learning curve even for novices since everything setup in a specific order to calibrate the projector.

Once I hit 50 hours, I'll run an initial calibration and post stock settings vs. the post calibration. There are obvious signs on the reports that can show how much had to change in order to acheive D65 / REC 709. On some projectors like my RS50, it's a large amount that has to change. if you saw my RS50 stock, you would immediately ask what's wrong with it since flesh tones would look a bit sickly (green/blue cast).

For some reason, this JVC is very low on red value meaning I have to bring down large amounts of blue/green in order get a balanced white point. This is critical for correct flesh tones. This also costs lumens right away before hour 1 is put on my lamp. The HW30 excels with very good grey scale OOTB which is good news to me since that means I am not going to lose much light attempting to get it close to D65.

The primary colors are relatively close too and some folks prefer the wide color space to increase the saturation even further although I think it looks fine on the normal settings.
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post #657 of 3273 Old 08-29-2011, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

a good place to start is Kal's primer on calibration. it's not for any one specific projector, just discusses the fundamentals of calibrating a display.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Calibrating with a meter and software is straightforward with some of the software packages out there like Tom's Chromapure product. it's an easy learning curve even for novices since everything setup in a specific order to calibrate the projector.

Once I hit 50 hours, I'll run an initial calibration and post stock settings vs. the post calibration. There are obvious signs on the reports that can show how much had to change in order to acheive D65 / REC 709. On some projectors like my RS50, it's a large amount that has to change. if you saw my RS50 stock, you would immediately ask what's wrong with it since flesh tones would look a bit sickly (green/blue cast).

For some reason, this JVC is very low on red value meaning I have to bring down large amounts of blue/green in order get a balanced white point. This is critical for correct flesh tones. This also costs lumens right away before hour 1 is put on my lamp. The HW30 excels with very good grey scale OOTB which is good news to me since that means I am not going to lose much light attempting to get it close to D65.

The primary colors are relatively close too and some folks prefer the wide color space to increase the saturation even further although I think it looks fine on the normal settings.

The most major thing I had to do to make mine look like the previous was change the color value to 60. Just gave the software a look. Wow, those are expensive for a license and one meter. I wonder if ebay has any
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post #658 of 3273 Old 08-30-2011, 02:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post

...When I viewed the Sony I put it in Cinema 1 with the default settings and I think I chose low power for the lamp....

Did you also set gamma to 3 or off? What about the iris settings. Both of these will significantly effect contrast/black leveals.
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post #659 of 3273 Old 08-30-2011, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Roshy View Post

No, I turned it in to fedex already now. I write my post and forgot to hit submit a couple hours before I wrote it. I have the colors to a more acceptable level now, but I really have zero clue as to what I'm doing for calibration. Any good guides out there for calibrating a projector?


Roshy

Buy a BR test disc to calibrate the projector - I prefer DVE ( Digital Video Essentiale ), made by Joe Kane, but there are a lot off god calibration disc out there ( Stacy and Munsil discén is a other ). This will help you to get the projector a god step closer to the Video standard and better see a natural picture.

With the HW30ES the Cinema 1 is a god starting point, as far as I remember ( maybe zombie10k can comment on that to ) or check this link out:

http://www.cine4home.de/

Ekki and his team has just done the full test off the HW30ES


dj
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post #660 of 3273 Old 08-30-2011, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by browerjs View Post

I doubt that's what it is (although it did cross my mind), as I originally used a cat5 cable before I got a new one for my permanent install.

I think my current plan of troubleshooting will be this:

1. Try Avatar
2. If problem persists, Charge glasses, try both sources
3. If problem persists, Try different cable

Tried Avatar again last night, and no problems with the glasses staying in sync. I then tried Starz 3D (TnB via UVerse) and had no issue either. So I really have no clue what was going on the other day.

I'll probably revert my Emitter output back to 0 in the service menu.

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