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post #10531 of 11119 Old 10-05-2014, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post
Zombie


Do you also run RC - Resolution on ZERO on your 1100, do you see artefacts if you go any higher?


I don't quite get SMOOTHING, is it meant to remove any artefacts Resolution creates?


Does SMOOTHING soften the image?


I do think RC on the 1100 is much more aggressive than it was on my old 500/600. One can move RC on the 500/600 much higher without introducing artefact's than you can on the 1100. Its a shame RC on the 1100 just doesn't behave the same as it does on the 500/600. I don't see the point in having a control that goes so high for resolution on the 1100 if you cant even use it.
Most of us find the RC to be much improved and now possible to set so as to improve the image without introducing annoying posts whoops annoying artifacts. before there was no way to accurately set it. The RC in the 500/600 is the same as in the 1100es and it needs to be set somewhat higher on the 500/600 to make up for the less good lens. Just like it needs to be set very high on the 55 to make up for that great all plastic lens. there is absolutely nothing wrong in having a large range control and setting to a minimum extreme proving enough granularity is available at the extreme to set it accurately.

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post #10532 of 11119 Old 10-05-2014, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
I usually keep the RC turned most of the way down. the controls are coarser than the VW600 which I generally kept at the lowest setting as well during the comparison. When fed a UHD/4K signal, the RC controls are much finer in this mode.

Are you using a Darbee?
Yes Im using Darbee on my Lumagen 2041, set at 45.
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post #10533 of 11119 Old 10-05-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post
Yes Im using Darbee on my Lumagen 2041, set at 45.
what is your component setup order, are you scaling 1080P content to UHD on the 2041 before it gets to the Sony?
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post #10534 of 11119 Old 10-05-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
what is your component setup order, are you scaling 1080P content to UHD on the 2041 before it gets to the Sony?
I only use Bluray and I leave the Lumagen set to 1080P.
I don't upscale it to UHD on the 2041 as I have problems with a number of the BD formats 50Hz, 60Hz, 24Hz.
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post #10535 of 11119 Old 10-05-2014, 06:46 PM
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One of the most annoying negatives of the upgrade was that it messed with the position function. Before the upgrade, it was spot on. Now when I go from 1.85:1 custom to 2.35:1 and then back, I have to always shift the picture down about three clicks. Since I go from a 16x9 desktop HTPC to a scoped movie a lot and then back, I have to deal with this annoying new "feature". Sadly, I doubt Sony will ever correct this and not having an employee monitoring this thread doesn't help.

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post #10536 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
One of the most annoying negatives of the upgrade was that it messed with the position function. Before the upgrade, it was spot on. Now when I go from 1.85:1 custom to 2.35:1 and then back, I have to always shift the picture down about three clicks. Since I go from a 16x9 desktop HTPC to a scoped movie a lot and then back, I have to deal with this annoying new "feature". Sadly, I doubt Sony will ever correct this and not having an employee monitoring this thread doesn't help.
+1

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post #10537 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
One of the most annoying negatives of the upgrade was that it messed with the position function. Before the upgrade, it was spot on. Now when I go from 1.85:1 custom to 2.35:1 and then back, I have to always shift the picture down about three clicks. .
Must have affected only certain projectors as mine does not have this issue. It is still spot on and I use this function regularly.
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post #10538 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
I think the term "sealed" is a bit ambiguous here on the forum. There are no light engines hermetically sealed on home theater projectors so the chance of getting dust in them is always possible. Maybe Sony should take another look at how they're sealing it. But you aren't going to see hermetically sealed light engines, even at this price point, so it's impossible to make them 100% dust proof. I believe Barco does hermetically seal the portion of the light engine that houses the DMDs. I'm sure this drives up the cost, but them again these machines are much more expensive than the 1000ES.

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The new laser projectors is close IFAIK ( like the RZ670 and maybe LS10000 ? ), but the 1000/1100 dont come even close to the word "sealed" ( in my book, their biggest weakness at all )


This is one after 200 -300 hours use ( and no, its absolutly not in a dusty environment ) :




dj
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post #10539 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
One of the most annoying negatives of the upgrade was that it messed with the position function. Before the upgrade, it was spot on. Now when I go from 1.85:1 custom to 2.35:1 and then back, I have to always shift the picture down about three clicks. Since I go from a 16x9 desktop HTPC to a scoped movie a lot and then back, I have to deal with this annoying new "feature". Sadly, I doubt Sony will ever correct this and not having an employee monitoring this thread doesn't help.

Stevenjw


I never had the 1000 upgrade - but there has not been any difference between the position function in my 1000 versus my 1100 ( operate identically )


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post #10540 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 09:34 AM
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Man that is one under exposed image to get a 0 ire pattern to look that black on a Sony.

I have not heard of many users who have experienced a dust blob issue on a Sony.I doubt it was introduced environmentally after production but was something introduced a manufacture that migrated. Do you see it using just pure RGB, each color individually. that is, is it a blob on one of the chips of is it elsewhere? In any vent, get it serviced under warranty. At worst you will only have to wait a few months. I would argue with Sony that you should not have to pay shipping to them with such few hours but I expect you will have to.

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post #10541 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
One of the most annoying negatives of the upgrade was that it messed with the position function. Before the upgrade, it was spot on. Now when I go from 1.85:1 custom to 2.35:1 and then back, I have to always shift the picture down about three clicks. Since I go from a 16x9 desktop HTPC to a scoped movie a lot and then back, I have to deal with this annoying new "feature". Sadly, I doubt Sony will ever correct this and not having an employee monitoring this thread doesn't help.
Does switching from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1 effect the focus?
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post #10542 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
Man that is one under exposed image to get a 0 ire pattern to look that black on a Sony.

I have not heard of many users who have experienced a dust blob issue on a Sony.I doubt it was introduced environmentally after production but was something introduced a manufacture that migrated. Do you see it using just pure RGB, each color individually. that is, is it a blob on one of the chips of is it elsewhere? In any vent, get it serviced under warranty. At worst you will only have to wait a few months. I would argue with Sony that you should not have to pay shipping to them with such few hours but I expect you will have to.

Mark


The Picture is taken just in front of the lens ( it is very difficult to photographers directly from the screen and my photo shooting style is miserable ), but its a easy way to photograph to show/see the spots on it !


I have had a lot of Sony projectors and have never had one single problem with dust spots ever - that was before the 1000 and 1100 !


And no, its not a before production problem , its after normal use, it comes and it is allways on the green panel (green spots)


Here is a picture, how its looked at new: ( ofcause in real at screen , the Black / 0 ire, is not looking green / blue, but very black .


And it has been serviced ( repeatedly ) and I never had to pay for shipping , In fact, Sony Prime Support been quite outstanding in their service all the way.

But it's still annoying that such an excellent and expensive projector, suffer from such a problem (Especially because I love all its other qualities, and in general is hard to beat)
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post #10543 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 10:30 AM
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What i am saying is that it maybe was dust already in the projector that migrated to the green panel rather than dust being sucked in and getting through the filter.

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post #10544 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
What i am saying is that it maybe was dust already in the projector that migrated to the green panel rather than dust being sucked in and getting through the filter.



No, I ( sadly ) dont think so ( but it is a good point anyway ), I am are talking about more then one projector and I have seeing it, in many more of them,


Mark, I would actually guess that there is some in yours too, they're just not very visible - but don´t check, because once you discover them, they get annoying

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post #10545 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 01:12 PM
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I had severe dust blobs in my 2nd unit.

I don't seem to have the issue with the unit returning to the correct position after motor functions after my unit was sent off to service. I've also played a ton with overscan (because of this issue and geometry issues I've discussed long ago in this thread) and I have the slightest overscan I can get with my masking so I cover the entire visible screen surface with picture. So if it is happening now there is a chance I may not always notice it.

To be clear, I never got 100% accuracy when returning to saved positions, but reliability definitely took a dive after the 1100 upgrade board and it has gotten much better since it was sent off to service. I did mention that being an issue but no repair notes mentioned any fix.

Speaking of stellar Sony service, Sony still hasn't sent me the rubber foot they lost off the rear of my projector. They've been "investigating" the issue for over a month.

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post #10546 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by magicj1 View Post
Does switching from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1 effect the focus?
Not as far as I can tell, just the shift/zoom.

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post #10547 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 02:01 PM
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Must have affected only certain projectors as mine does not have this issue. It is still spot on and I use this function regularly.
I guess so, but I'm not the only one that's experience this "feature" after the upgrade.
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post #10548 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by turls View Post
I had severe dust blobs in my 2nd unit.

I don't seem to have the issue with the unit returning to the correct position after motor functions after my unit was sent off to service. I've also played a ton with overscan (because of this issue and geometry issues I've discussed long ago in this thread) and I have the slightest overscan I can get with my masking so I cover the entire visible screen surface with picture. So if it is happening now there is a chance I may not always notice it.

To be clear, I never got 100% accuracy when returning to saved positions, but reliability definitely took a dive after the 1100 upgrade board and it has gotten much better since it was sent off to service. I did mention that being an issue but no repair notes mentioned any fix.

Speaking of stellar Sony service, Sony still hasn't sent me the rubber foot they lost off the rear of my projector. They've been "investigating" the issue for over a month.

Only a month and you are bitching? Sony just got hammered in its negotiations to buy channel content for its new streaming smart TV content. It had the brilliant salvation plan to beat the existing providers with a serve that included the most popular channels for $30 bucks where the others charge $60 to $65. You see the providers won't provide those channels without a bunch of the low popularity ones which of course Sony must pay for. news reports are that Sony's package could cost $80 per month but Sony attempting to lick its perhaps fatal wounds is saying they will be able to compete with the $65 boys and offer a better deal. It seems Sony just can't with its new management team operating with cheaper and less experience labor and management.

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post #10549 of 11119 Old 10-06-2014, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post
Mark


The Picture is taken just in front of the lens ( it is very difficult to photographers directly from the screen and my photo shooting style is miserable ), but its a easy way to photograph to show/see the spots on it !


I have had a lot of Sony projectors and have never had one single problem with dust spots ever - that was before the 1000 and 1100 !


And no, its not a before production problem , its after normal use, it comes and it is allways on the green panel (green spots)


Here is a picture, how its looked at new: ( ofcause in real at screen , the Black / 0 ire, is not looking green / blue, but very black .


And it has been serviced ( repeatedly ) and I never had to pay for shipping , In fact, Sony Prime Support been quite outstanding in their service all the way.

But it's still annoying that such an excellent and expensive projector, suffer from such a problem (Especially because I love all its other qualities, and in general is hard to beat)
Sadly my 1100 had the same scenario. I was keeping an eye out and after having the more severe dust blobs in the 1000 and sure enough after about the same approx hours maybe 400 or just after to be precise I started noticing them. This time around it's much less severe and I'm living with it. Still a nuisance to know it can happen in such a high end unit so easily.

I've also had no issue with any other Sony SXRD units to date of the great many I've owned, it's strictly been with the 1000/1100.
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post #10550 of 11119 Old 10-07-2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
Not as far as I can tell, just the shift/zoom.

I actually have the opposite problem........it shifts/zooms perfectly(most of the time) but usually requires a few extra clicks that I have to apply manually to focus accurately.


BTW---I have a 1000 which has not been upgraded to a 1100.
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post #10551 of 11119 Old 10-07-2014, 08:10 PM
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Selling my Lumagen 2041

Selling my Lumagen 2041. I think this was a very worthwhile upgrade for my VPL-1000ES. I think it really made the video quality better for DirecTV and BluRay. The Darbee was a very noticeable improvement too. It also fixed my sound problem with the 4K puck and my Mcintosh MX151. Let me know anyone is interested.
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post #10552 of 11119 Old 10-09-2014, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magicj1 View Post
Does switching from 1.85:1 to 2.35:1 effect the focus?
It did on my first unit. Pre upgrade.
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post #10553 of 11119 Old 10-09-2014, 07:31 AM
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Last night I install my Sony VW1100 (replacing my very very old VW500 )

First reaction, wow the VW500 was a great of a projector

If we only did a quick look, we can think it's the same machine.

But after more testing, with the right source, I can easily see some worth improvement.

The lens do make a difference, my unit is corner to corner focus perfect and uniform. The image seem more naturally sharp. Also the black level is improved by a noticeable margin.


Nothing more to add for today but I will continue my testing and report back.
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post #10554 of 11119 Old 10-15-2014, 06:14 PM
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Why would Sony default all the contrast settings on the 1100 at MAX when they default all the rest at 50%


Ive never seen a projector that has the contrast defaulted to 100% MAX....


I don't use these settings from the proj as I have a Lumagen 2041, but just thought this was odd???
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post #10555 of 11119 Old 10-16-2014, 05:27 AM
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Hi,

After many years of inactivity, I'm finally building a new home theater.
I'm considering buying the VW1100ES, and in the process of researching the best screen aspect ratio, size and masking solution to go with this projector.

At the moment, it likely will be constant image height 2.35:1 a/r screen 140" wide on 60" high, with vertical masking for when projecting 16:9 content on the screen in order not to leave white-border on the left & right sides of the image when this aspect ratio is projected on a screen that is wider than the projected image.

I just read something on the projector brochure I couldn't quite understand. I'm quoting -

"The VPL-VW1100ES delivers a widescreen-friendly resolution of 4096 x 2160 based on the DCI specification. This means viewers can enjoy movies without annoying black bars at the top and bottom of the screen."

I understand I can easily switch aspect ratios with the motorized focus, len shift and zoom.
But can anyone please explain what the above quote from the pj brochure means?

While I'm at it - do you have an estimate of how many owners of this projector selected a 2.35 aspect ratio screen vs. a 16:9 screen? And how many opted for a screen with vertical or horizontal masking?

I'm researching at best as I can, and still not 100% sure what's the best decision re: screen-size, masking solution.
Many thanks.
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post #10556 of 11119 Old 10-16-2014, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ShaharT View Post
Hi,

After many years of inactivity, I'm finally building a new home theater.
I'm considering buying the VW1100ES, and in the process of researching the best screen aspect ratio, size and masking solution to go with this projector.

At the moment, it likely will be constant image height 2.35:1 a/r screen 140" wide on 60" high, with vertical masking for when projecting 16:9 content on the screen in order not to leave white-border on the left & right sides of the image when this aspect ratio is projected on a screen that is wider than the projected image.

I just read something on the projector brochure I couldn't quite understand. I'm quoting -

"The VPL-VW1100ES delivers a widescreen-friendly resolution of 4096 x 2160 based on the DCI specification. This means viewers can enjoy movies without annoying black bars at the top and bottom of the screen."

I understand I can easily switch aspect ratios with the motorized focus, len shift and zoom.
But can anyone please explain what the above quote from the pj brochure means?

While I'm at it - do you have an estimate of how many owners of this projector selected a 2.35 aspect ratio screen vs. a 16:9 screen? And how many opted for a screen with vertical or horizontal masking?

I'm researching at best as I can, and still not 100% sure what's the best decision re: screen-size, masking solution.
Many thanks.
They are talking about the lens memory. Rather than you selecting lens shift and zoom to adjust each function to fit the image to your screen each time, you do it once and store it in memory. Then you just select the saved setting when ever you want to switch from one to another.

Aspect ratio selection has more to do with what content you watch and what works best with your room. It also has to do with what you value most. If you are big into sports, then 16:9 makes the most sense. If you are width limited, then 16:9 makes the most sense. If you are height limited, then consider scope. If you are a movie buff and that is your priority, then consider scope. If you want it all, then constant image size, but you will always have black bars or unused screen. The perfect screen to me would be constant image size with 4 way masking, but this costs a boatload. Some people go scope, because they want block buster scope films to be more grand than HDTV.
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post #10557 of 11119 Old 10-16-2014, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
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While I'm at it - do you have an estimate of how many owners of this projector selected a 2.35 aspect ratio screen vs. a 16:9 screen? And how many opted for a screen with vertical or horizontal masking?
I have a 2.35 screen with vertical masking bars that drop down for 16.9. Most newer movies seem to be in 2.35 so it is a bummer when something like cable tv is in 16.9 and I have to look at a smaller image.

I am so glad I got the VW1000 that was upgraded to the VW1100, it is a decision I am sure you will be happy with too!
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post #10558 of 11119 Old 10-17-2014, 04:21 AM
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Really appreciate your feedback – thank you.

Another question, this time on seating distance from a 4K image.

I read online that seating distance from 4K content (or upscaled to 4K content) can and maybe should be closer than the conventional previous wisdom of up to 3.5 times the screen height.

We initially planned a 130” wide 2.35 a/r screen (141” diagonal), that’s supposed to drop between the side speakers and above the center speaker.
The room is under construction, but I stopped by the construction site today, and using masking tape, drew it on the wall. And… that screen did not seem “big” enough for that room.

By moving the screen to be in front of the speakers instead of the original plan of dropping down between the side speakers and above the center speaker, I can now plan for a larger screen (that will be perforated for sound) that can also have its bottom closer to the floor. [First question – is there a best practice on how low above floor level should a screen end at?]

What would nicely fit in when taking the screen in front of the speakers is now a 162” wide 2.35 a/r screen (176” diagonal).
Visually looking at the masking tape glued to the wall to simulate this larger size – I loved it!
I read the VPL-VW1100ES can easily fill a 176” image without compromising brightness, so that’s not a concern.

Now I need to make sure this new screen size is not too big for where the seating is planned to be……

Using this online calculator http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html (that can only take a 16:9 based image size for its calculation of seating distance – so I’ve entered the constant-height 16:9 image that will projected on this 2.35 screen, which is 123” wide on 69” with a 141” diagonal) I see that THX recommended viewing distance is about 16 feet from a screen of this size – a distance that is about as far back as my room would allow. Which means if I got something wrong – I might end up with a screen too big for where my seating distance is.

So my question is – am I doing the math right? Will a reasonable viewing distance of 16 feet work with a constant image height 2.35 176” diagonal screen / 16:9 141” diagonal? And is the math different for 4K content? And a less important question mentioned earlier above, is if there’s best practice on how low above floor level should the screen end, if there’s no practical limitation (center speaker now behind the screen).

The reason I’m so fixated on this, is that I need to tell my contractor where in the concrete ceiling to leave an opening for the screen case (right next to the wall behind, so the screen drops right in front of the tv and between the speakers, or 2 foot forward in the ceiling, in front of the speakers) as well as the dimensions of this opening.

I really appreciate your kindness and patience with me and my questions.
Best,
Shahar
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post #10559 of 11119 Old 10-17-2014, 05:01 AM
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"I read online that seating distance from 4K content (or upscaled to 4K content) can and maybe should be closer than the conventional previous wisdom of up to 3.5 times the screen height."



I have a 200" scope (185" wide) screen and just took a measurement and I sit 13 feet from the screen. I have a JVC projector which really is not quite bright enough of course. I am using a Panamorph UH480 with a DIY Seymour XD AT curved screen. IMO that distance calculator is no longer relevant, YMMV of course.

I love being that close but of course it is not for everybody so I would definitely test this before I bought/built the screen. Just give it a chance because at first it may seem overwhelming but after a few minutes you might not be able to go smaller. It should be much much better with the Sony1100 than the JVC.


Hope this helps,
Moto
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post #10560 of 11119 Old 10-17-2014, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaharT View Post
Really appreciate your feedback – thank you.

Another question, this time on seating distance from a 4K image.

I read online that seating distance from 4K content (or upscaled to 4K content) can and maybe should be closer than the conventional previous wisdom of up to 3.5 times the screen height.

We initially planned a 130” wide 2.35 a/r screen (141” diagonal), that’s supposed to drop between the side speakers and above the center speaker.
The room is under construction, but I stopped by the construction site today, and using masking tape, drew it on the wall. And… that screen did not seem “big” enough for that room.

By moving the screen to be in front of the speakers instead of the original plan of dropping down between the side speakers and above the center speaker, I can now plan for a larger screen (that will be perforated for sound) that can also have its bottom closer to the floor. [First question – is there a best practice on how low above floor level should a screen end at?]

What would nicely fit in when taking the screen in front of the speakers is now a 162” wide 2.35 a/r screen (176” diagonal).
Visually looking at the masking tape glued to the wall to simulate this larger size – I loved it!
I read the VPL-VW1100ES can easily fill a 176” image without compromising brightness, so that’s not a concern.

Now I need to make sure this new screen size is not too big for where the seating is planned to be……

Using this online calculator http://myhometheater.homestead.com/v...alculator.html (that can only take a 16:9 based image size for its calculation of seating distance – so I’ve entered the constant-height 16:9 image that will projected on this 2.35 screen, which is 123” wide on 69” with a 141” diagonal) I see that THX recommended viewing distance is about 16 feet from a screen of this size – a distance that is about as far back as my room would allow. Which means if I got something wrong – I might end up with a screen too big for where my seating distance is.

So my question is – am I doing the math right? Will a reasonable viewing distance of 16 feet work with a constant image height 2.35 176” diagonal screen / 16:9 141” diagonal? And is the math different for 4K content? And a less important question mentioned earlier above, is if there’s best practice on how low above floor level should the screen end, if there’s no practical limitation (center speaker now behind the screen).

The reason I’m so fixated on this, is that I need to tell my contractor where in the concrete ceiling to leave an opening for the screen case (right next to the wall behind, so the screen drops right in front of the tv and between the speakers, or 2 foot forward in the ceiling, in front of the speakers) as well as the dimensions of this opening.

I really appreciate your kindness and patience with me and my questions.
Best,
Shahar
I also like to sit fairly close (~11 ft from a 144" W screen), but as said viewing distance is a very personal thing. Also, my screen is taller than a 2.35 one would be of this width because I wanted a larger 16x9 pic than a 2.35 would have allowed (~ 5 ft); mine is 6 ft H, i.e., a 2.0 AR.
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