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post #10621 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 08:15 AM
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Bulb life...

So I have about 900 hours on the original bulb for my Sony 1000ES projector. I bought the upgrade kit last winter, to make it a 1100ES, which as you know includes a new bulb. Sony said that when I am ready that I can mail my projector to them and they will install the new bulb at the same time they do the upgrade.

So how long are you guys waiting before changing out your bulb?

Thanks,
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post #10622 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
Ben. There is no right answer. Any answer will be at least partially wrong. And that's the beauty of home theater, one will always be wrong, will never achieve right, therefore causing sleep loss and more opportunity to spend in the HT watching and listening and playing with the controls to try and achieve whatever

That said. Shut the DO off, set to manual full iris, and then calibrate using say a Lumagen and a D3 calibrated probe and say Chromapure. Swith the DI on and if you want the most light and least accurate picture set the DI to full. If you feel guilty, turn it to limited.

Now you eyes come into place. Your eyes will screw up the color.What is on the screen and what you see are probably quite different based on the age of your eyes. So then set up a second color setting on the Sony and play with it. Make it look good to you. Rec 709 is a very limited color space. Many colors you can and do see in viewing the world directly can not be reproduced by rec 709. A set calibrated perfectly will look too dim and undersaturated to you. You have a great projector. It has limitations and you can make it within those limitations look how you want and it won't be right, it will be wrong. It can never be right. A calibrator can make it right for the calibrator but it will still be wrong. Less wrong? To who. the only thing that matters is making it look best for you and no one can tell you what that is. Dump your insecurities. That's the biggest thing that drives the entire AV industry. Everybody says but not out loud, I don't know but maybe somebody else does. Please tell me because I don't know. How should I set it? Set it the way it looks best to you. You will like it. We live life mostly wrongly, at least in the opinion of various experts. But hopefully we live it within our limitations doing things which make us happy. HT should make one happy. Make it look good to you and sound good to you within the limits achievable by what you have. The system of HT, rather the universe of HT is set up to make you want something else. Submersive sound, its wrong to call it immersive. A wider color space, a brighter picture, a greater dynamic range from black to white, more pixels, faster pixels, greater bit length, higher rates of subsampling. Look it up on a periodic chart of elements, unobtainium.
Mark, Thrang,

All good points, most of which I realize. I am not one to force myself to watch something that I don't like, just because it is proper. However, there are so many variables at play, it is often hard to even see all of your options. I was just curious to see how people handled calibration, if they use the iris. My experience has led me to believe that you get compromised black levels if you calibrate with iris off versus the iris on when you watch with the iris on. That led me to ask you guys whether you should (er think you should) set the black level on a dim test pattern or a bright(er) test pattern.

Ben

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post #10623 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trek737 View Post
So I have about 900 hours on the original bulb for my Sony 1000ES projector. I bought the upgrade kit last winter, to make it a 1100ES, which as you know includes a new bulb. Sony said that when I am ready that I can mail my projector to them and they will install the new bulb at the same time they do the upgrade.

So how long are you guys waiting before changing out your bulb?

Thanks,
I figured that I would change my bulb at 500 hours, but I'm close to 800 hours and still think the picture is great on low lamp (with a 12' wide, 1.89.1 ST130). I even zoom to keep pixel to pixel mapping, which equates to a bigger screen.

Ben
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post #10624 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trek737 View Post
So I have about 900 hours on the original bulb for my Sony 1000ES projector. I bought the upgrade kit last winter, to make it a 1100ES, which as you know includes a new bulb. Sony said that when I am ready that I can mail my projector to them and they will install the new bulb at the same time they do the upgrade.

So how long are you guys waiting before changing out your bulb?

Thanks,
I replaced mine at 1800 hours just for the heck of it. I did not notice much difference with a new lamp, suggesting it can be pushed for quite a longer use.
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post #10625 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Withrow View Post
Mark, Thrang,

All good points, most of which I realize. I am not one to force myself to watch something that I don't like, just because it is proper. However, there are so many variables at play, it is often hard to even see all of your options. I was just curious to see how people handled calibration, if they use the iris. My experience has led me to believe that you get compromised black levels if you calibrate with iris off versus the iris on when you watch with the iris on. That led me to ask you guys whether you should (er think you should) set the black level on a dim test pattern or a bright(er) test pattern.

Ben
Im interested also to see how many with the 1100 set the black level with Iris on or off.


Ive always set all my projectors with iris off, but looks like the 1100 crashes blacks if you set this model up that way.
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post #10626 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 02:48 PM
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So why ask? Use a pluge pattern, set it on to full or limited, as you plan to use it, and adjust the black level. If you like it and what it does on dark scenes, use it. If not try it with the DI off, reset and observe. Popularity by users makes nada difference. Using a DI will affect gray scale tracking. Its a trade off like everything else. If the question is which way will not crush the blacks, theory would suggest leaving the DI on and set the black level or brightness control.i using a pluge pattern. Of course the particular pattern may cause the DI to act one way and another pluge pattern another.

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post #10627 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
So why ask? Use a pluge pattern, set it on to full or limited, as you plan to use it, and adjust the black level. If you like it and what it does on dark scenes, use it. If not try it with the DI off, reset and observe. Popularity by users makes nada difference. Using a DI will affect gray scale tracking. Its a trade off like everything else. If the question is which way will not crush the blacks, theory would suggest leaving the DI on and set the black level or brightness control.i using a pluge pattern. Of course the particular pattern may cause the DI to act one way and another pluge pattern another.


I do it exactly the same way as you Mark, but do find the results differ between DI on or DI off.


For years people has said to set blacks with DI off, but if you do that with this projector you do end up with black crush.
I think if some follow the old recommended route of setting black with DI off, you just might be loosing detail when you return to DI on.
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post #10628 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 04:33 PM
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My guess would be that for dark scene the gamma is set higher at the low end and and higher at the high end to compensate for the iris opening being decreased.. At the high end in mixed scenes where the iris is closed down the gamma boast (lowering at the high end) will crush some of the whites. There is a reason that full auto iris results in higher brightness pictures than limited. At that is because the gamma is lowered significantly at the top end. The more you shut the iris to improve the blacks the more DI system must boost the whites. Tthe only way to boost the whites is to decrease the gamma at the top end. Unfortunately, this will clip some of the whites.

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post #10629 of 10803 Old 11-06-2014, 04:40 PM
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there is a reason that full auto iris is brighter than limited. At that is because the gamma is lowered significantly at the top end.
Interesting, I didn't know that.
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post #10630 of 10803 Old 11-07-2014, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Withrow View Post
I figured that I would change my bulb at 500 hours, but I'm close to 800 hours and still think the picture is great on low lamp (with a 12' wide, 1.89.1 ST130). I even zoom to keep pixel to pixel mapping, which equates to a bigger screen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hermosa View Post
I replaced mine at 1800 hours just for the heck of it. I did not notice much difference with a new lamp, suggesting it can be pushed for quite a longer use.
Thanks guys for chiming in on the life span of the Sony bulb... Looks like I will keep using the original one until I get closer to 2000 hours if it last that long. I called Sony yesterday and spoke to Chad about the bulb life and my upgrade install. He said the projector will tell you when the bulb needs replaced.. i.e. by either a red light on the projector or the projector will not work if I understood him correctly... Good to know...

Cheers,
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post #10631 of 10803 Old 11-07-2014, 08:29 AM
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The projector has a lamp hour meter on it set for some given number of hours to trigger a replace me signal. I do not know the number of hours it is set for but the purpose is to tell the projector owner or servicer that its time to replace the bulb because of an ever increasing possibility as the hours grow of a catastrophic bulb explosion. Worse things can happen to a projector than a bulb explosion but it is messy to clean up and does release some bad fecal into your theater environment.

When you replace the bulb you need to go into the service menu and reset the bulb hour counter and then do a save before exiting the service menu. As far as lumens out go, the projector is ignorant. It only tells you what Sony has programmed into the machine for bulb replacement.

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Last edited by mark haflich; 11-07-2014 at 03:26 PM.
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post #10632 of 10803 Old 11-07-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
The projector has a lamp hour meter on it set for some given number of hours to trigger a replace me signal. I do not know the number of hours it is set for but the purpose is to tell the projector owner or servicer that its time to replace the bulb because of an ever increasing possibility as the hours grow of a catastrophic bulb explosion. Worse things can happen to a projector than a bulb explosion but it is messy to clean up and does release some bad recal into your theater environment.

When you replace the bulb you need to go into the service menu and reset the bulb hour counter and then do a save before exiting the service menu. As far as lumens out go, the projector is ignorant. It only tells you what Sony has programmed into the machine fir bulb replacement.
Mark,

There you go again. Saddling this thread with reality.

Do you run full iris or limited?

Ben
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post #10633 of 10803 Old 11-07-2014, 03:29 PM
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For sports full, for movies limited. Of course screen size, gain, and throw enter into that setting. My screen size is 54 x 96, gain is 1.0, and throw about 15 ft. Black pit.

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post #10634 of 10803 Old 11-07-2014, 04:38 PM
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For sports full, for movies limited. Of course screen size, gain, and throw enter into that setting. My screen size is 54 x 96, gain is 1.0, and throw about 15 ft. Black pit.
Thanks Mark. I appreciate you sharing. Do you have a desire to go to a bigger screen? I had a 54x96 prior to my new screen, but have come to really like the larger screen. You could keep the ST100 at 120" wide - I think.
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Ben. If you google my address, 22200 zion road, brookeville, MD 20833 you will see on the virtual tour of my house which is up for sale, several pictures of my HT. It simply is not possible for me to install a wider screen because of steps on either side of the screen. The screen is built into the wall, all I can do and did do was change the fabric (from ST130 to ST100. I sit 12.5 ft from the screen and find that satisfactory to fill my vision. When I move I will probably install a 127 inch wide 2.35 screen which would give me the same size 16 x 9 that I presently have. This all depends on the room dimensions of the room my new HT will occupy. It won't be anything like I have now. Just a place for me to go and watch sports without bothering my wife. Couple of seats, minimal wall treatments and maybe a cheap 5.1 set up.

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post #10636 of 10803 Old 11-08-2014, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
The projector has a lamp hour meter on it set for some given number of hours to trigger a replace me signal. I do not know the number of hours it is set for but the purpose is to tell the projector owner or servicer that its time to replace the bulb because of an ever increasing possibility as the hours grow of a catastrophic bulb explosion. Worse things can happen to a projector than a bulb explosion but it is messy to clean up and does release some bad fecal into your theater environment.

When you replace the bulb you need to go into the service menu and reset the bulb hour counter and then do a save before exiting the service menu. As far as lumens out go, the projector is ignorant. It only tells you what Sony has programmed into the machine for bulb replacement.

Mark,

Good information on the Sony bulb... Thanks for chiming in on this topic...

Cheers,
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post #10637 of 10803 Old 11-08-2014, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
The projector has a lamp hour meter on it set for some given number of hours to trigger a replace me signal. I do not know the number of hours it is set for but the purpose is to tell the projector owner or servicer that its time to replace the bulb because of an ever increasing possibility as the hours grow of a catastrophic bulb explosion. Worse things can happen to a projector than a bulb explosion but it is messy to clean up and does release some bad fecal into your theater environment.

When you replace the bulb you need to go into the service menu and reset the bulb hour counter and then do a save before exiting the service menu. As far as lumens out go, the projector is ignorant. It only tells you what Sony has programmed into the machine for bulb replacement.
You don´t have to go into the service menu to reset the lamp hours when replacing a lamp, that you can do in the normal menu.

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post #10638 of 10803 Old 11-08-2014, 08:17 AM
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Thanks. I didn't remember. I have never replaced a bulb on my Sony but a Sony tech replaced it when he had to take my set back for the upgrade. i still have the upgrade kit bulb.

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Anyone know the dimensions of this beast?
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Anyone know the dimensions of this beast?
From the spec sheet:


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post #10641 of 10803 Old 11-09-2014, 06:05 AM
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Anyone know what the story is with the 3D RF emitter for the VW1100? I've seen some random discussions on it on this thread but it's a but unclear.

Expand seems to provide them for the Sony (with an adapter) but it EU there is a Sony PN for an RF emitter. Anyone know for sure?

Zombie - I think you posted some info on this as well.

Appreciate the help.

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post #10642 of 10803 Old 11-10-2014, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
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Anyone know what the story is with the 3D RF emitter for the VW1100? I've seen some random discussions on it on this thread but it's a but unclear.

Expand seems to provide them for the Sony (with an adapter) but it EU there is a Sony PN for an RF emitter. Anyone know for sure?

Zombie - I think you posted some info on this as well.

Appreciate the help.

Tony
I got a hold of the Xpand RF emitter very cheaply on Ebay earlier in the year. I ended up following a guide, on I think it was the HW-50 thread, explaining how to replace the din plug and cable with an RJ-45 to fit the 1100. Once that was done the adapter works flawlessly. The only downside is you lose IR output for use with say the Monster IR-RF adapter or straight IR glasses.

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post #10643 of 10803 Old 11-10-2014, 07:23 PM
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Was this the thread? It looks like they used a straight RJ-45 connection on the Xpand emitter.

Owners thread Sony Hw55ES

Sony had the part available for a while but it was pretty expensive for a cable (~75 if I recall) I have one of these and it does work well.

Those RF glasses + emitter are still available cheap if you want to make this simple mod for the 1100.

http://www.amazon.com/EX105BT-Shutte...dp/B009ZW7SR2/
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post #10644 of 10803 Old 11-10-2014, 09:12 PM
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Was this the thread? It looks like they used a straight RJ-45 connection on the Xpand emitter.

Owners thread Sony Hw55ES

Sony had the part available for a while but it was pretty expensive for a cable (~75 if I recall) I have one of these and it does work well.

Those RF glasses + emitter are still available cheap if you want to make this simple mod for the 1100.

http://www.amazon.com/EX105BT-Shutte...dp/B009ZW7SR2/
Yep that's the thread.

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post #10645 of 10803 Old 11-12-2014, 12:09 PM
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I just got a Darblet and was wondering what your settings for the darblet and projector are (sharpness, RC, etc.). Mike G suggested HD 35 for his 600, but I was curious to see what the consensus was for the 1100/1000. Thanks for any feedback.

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I just got a Darblet and was wondering what your settings for the darblet and projector are (sharpness, RC, etc.). Mike G suggested HD 35 for his 600, but I was curious to see what the consensus was for the 1100/1000. Thanks for any feedback.
I use HD 35% with my VW1100 and find it to be "perfect".

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post #10647 of 10803 Old 11-12-2014, 12:36 PM
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I use HD 35% with my VW1100 and find it to be "perfect".
Thanks. What are your sharpness and RC settings?

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Thanks. What are your sharpness and RC settings?
Sharpness 0 and RC resolution around 0 and noise reduction around 0 (I don´t remember exactly and I don´t have the PJ on).

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post #10649 of 10803 Old 11-12-2014, 02:27 PM
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Re the settings on the Darblet or internal to devises incorporating the Darbeevision algs, it depends on your sensitivities to the aberrations or artifacts. . Jim Peterson from Lumagen uses about 20 on the 1100ES for critical viewing. I use about 30. Andreas 35. All reasonable, likable settings. There is no right answer. it depends and some viewers who I think just aren't that aware of what constitutes PQ like to crank it because of the higher perceived detail. They do not see the artifacts. Video is an illusion anyway. Your eyes are tricked. Some eyes are lets say faster than others.

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post #10650 of 10803 Old 11-12-2014, 02:51 PM
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Re the settings on the Darblet or internal to devises incorporating the Darbeevision algs, it depends on your sensitivities to the aberrations or artifacts. . Jim Peterson from Lumagen uses about 20 on the 1100ES for critical viewing. I use about 30. Andreas 35. All reasonable likable settings. There is no right answer. it depends and some viewers who I think just aren't that aware of what constitutes PQ like to crank it because of the higher perceived detail. They do not see the artifacts. Video is an allusion. Your eyes are tricked. Some eyes are lets say faster than others.
I can tell a difference with the Darblet in the chain. I started with 35, but didn't have time to play with it much or check it out with different movies. I was thinking that I was seeing what I will call noise or grain-like artifacts, but I wasn't sure. It was hard to switch back and forth due to the Darblet location on the projector and the split screen isn't as helpful as I thought it would be. What are your sharpness and RC settings? It seems like they tend to impact the Darblet.

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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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Sony Vpl Vw1000es Projector , Casio Rs 232 Adapter Catalog Category Projectors Accessories
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