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post #11341 of 11364 Old 04-30-2015, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisreeves View Post
I can't decide if I should upgrade now or later. Is there any chance that Sony will introduce a newer board upgrade that adds to the capability of the projector - perhaps after the introduction of UHD Blu Ray?
You know, this is a great question. If I had to take a guess, I'd argue that if Sony comes out with a 1200ES or something of the sort, Sony won't offer the same type of upgrade path they did with the 1000ES -->1100ES upgrade (if they even offer one at all). I remember reading that in the US, Sony was subsidizing a considerable amount of the cost of the upgrade. I doubt they'd venture down this path again considering their financial situation in general and the lack of necessity they have to offer this upgrade to end users. Though owners could make the argument they would have rather waited for an upgraded motherboard that fully took advantage of HDMI 2.0a (full bandwidth support) and HDCP 2.2. With that said, from what I've read recently over the past couple weeks, UHD bluray may only end up being 3840 x 2160 10bit 4:2:0 content, which the 1100ES motherboard can do no problem at 24p.
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post #11342 of 11364 Old 04-30-2015, 08:22 PM
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I never bought that Sony lost a lot of money on the upgrade.


2) the retail value of the FMP was $500 I think? Raw cost might be $100 for that useless piece of plastic?
3) the retail value of the tablet was around $600 I think. Raw cost might be $300-350?
4) the retail value of the lamp is $699 I think. Raw cost is probably $150

Logic board might be a $500 cost to Sony?

Average labor cost to install $350?

So while it was bundled to seem like a lot for your money, it was perhaps 1700-1800 dollars cost, plus another few bucks to cover shipping, management, and other incidental overhead.

What was the retail for the kit? $2500-2700?. Somewhere there I think.not sure how much dealer margin there was.

So they potentially end up 10-20% up from cost. Even factoring in variations in costs basis, and other unknowns, it's hard to see where they lost.

And if Sony were smart, a small cost basis toward a future upgrade should have been built into the initial cost of the 1000, since they knew it needed at least one change after initial design.

So if they devised a $1,000-1,200 logic board only upgrade, plus install, an upgrade to a 1200 is feasible presuming it's mostly 18 gbps hdmi and processor components.

My two cents...
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post #11343 of 11364 Old 05-01-2015, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisreeves View Post
I can't decide if I should upgrade now or later. Is there any chance that Sony will introduce a newer board upgrade that adds to the capability of the projector - perhaps after the introduction of UHD Blu Ray?
Later most likely will not be an option. Kits are scarce now. Normally I could just order from Tech Data, but they are out. Sony has located a few for me, but not many left. Another board for the 1000? I give that a 0.0001% chance of happening.

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post #11344 of 11364 Old 05-01-2015, 10:53 AM
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Thrang. Great game last bight regardless of the ultimate winner. Winning score with about 1.5 seconds left. Reminds me of a play in college along time ago with Dryden in the net. Hell of a pass by Ovechkin.

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post #11345 of 11364 Old 05-01-2015, 02:23 PM
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Thrang. Great game last bight regardless of the ultimate winner. Winning score with about 1.5 seconds left. Reminds me of a play in college along time ago with Dryden in the net. Hell of a pass by Ovechkin.
Yes, but a brain fart by the entire team in that last 14 seconds...why did Samuelson put out Boyle on D with Ovechkin out there, matchup they have been avoiding? Why did Vingeault have JT Miller out there, who was the worst forward defensively all game? Why did McDonagh chase Ovechkin behind the net instead of leaving him to Stepan who was back there, and go cover in front? From a shot that close why wasn't Lundqvuist's pad tight to the ice? Nothing was going upstairs...

But yes, it looked great on the 1100!

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post #11346 of 11364 Old 05-01-2015, 02:39 PM
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Your analysis of the match ups is spot on. Its very hard to know how to cover with fast instantaneous action going on and impossible to communicate with the noise. The pad to the ice tight is hard with an instant reaction with a player in front of your pads and the natural goal tending move is to smoother rather than set up for a shot. most goals are a result of a mistake though.

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post #11347 of 11364 Old 05-01-2015, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Later most likely will not be an option. Kits are scarce now. Normally I could just order from Tech Data, but they are out. Sony has located a few for me, but not many left. Another board for the 1000? I give that a 0.0001% chance of happening.
So how would that have worked if Tech Data had some in stock? You buy it and just send it with the 1000ES to Sony for them to do the swap? Or would it have not required Sony to do anything?
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post #11348 of 11364 Old Yesterday, 11:01 PM
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You just want to stick with the global whole pixel adjustment, not the zone based sub pixel stuff. It's when you start using that portion of the software you run into image degradation issues especially if you're using half pixel adjustment. The closer to whole pixel adjustments the better in terms of retaining PQ.

Is the convergence really off enough where you're considering returning it? I feel lucky. My unit is near perfect after a short 10 minute warm up. No need to touch the alignment software.

Here's right at startup:



After ~10 minutes:



The unit is practically new with 132 hours of total use:

Why does the Operation Timer show five hours more than the Lamp Timer? My projector shows equal number of hours.
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post #11349 of 11364 Old Today, 04:57 AM
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My guess is Sony put this unit through its paces at the factory? Either that or for some other reason this unit was turned on without a bulb installed.
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post #11350 of 11364 Old Today, 05:41 AM
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Will the unit even turn on without a bulb? But suppose the bulb at Sony turn on in the factory or a after a few hours in the field started pulsing etc necessitating a replacement. We are all probably going to die without really knowing what happened here re the five hour difference. Back to looking for that $2 million dollar buried chest.

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post #11351 of 11364 Old Today, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
Will the unit even turn on without a bulb? But suppose the bulb at Sony turn on in the factory or a after a few hours in the field started pulsing etc necessitating a replacement. We are all probably going to die without really knowing what happened here re the five hour difference. Back to looking for that $2 million dollar buried chest.

Perhaps the lamp timer was reset 5 hours into the operation of the unit (no idea what prev. limp timer means)... but I like your theory more
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post #11352 of 11364 Old Today, 06:18 AM
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Maybe the lamp counter only works if you're feeding a source to the projector. So maybe the 5 hour discrepancy is just 5 hours on blue screen time as the projector was waiting for a video feed.

Lots of maybes and I suspect we'll never know why. All I can say is that I don't plan on losing any sleep over a 5 hour difference between the counters. If the difference were hundreds or thousands of hours I'd start to worry.
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post #11353 of 11364 Old Today, 06:38 AM
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So how would that have worked if Tech Data had some in stock? You buy it and just send it with the 1000ES to Sony for them to do the swap? Or would it have not required Sony to do anything?
About the same as now. The kit is sent to you, Sony sends special shipping carton and label to you. You send projector and motherboard to Sony. It is possible Sony has removed the motherboards and have all of them already in TX and is no longer in the kit. Not 100% sure on that point.

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post #11354 of 11364 Old Today, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9009 View Post
Why does the Operation Timer show five hours more than the Lamp Timer? My projector shows equal number of hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
My guess is Sony put this unit through its paces at the factory? Either that or for some other reason this unit was turned on without a bulb installed.
Probably means the lamp was replaced after 5 hours of use.

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post #11355 of 11364 Old Today, 06:45 AM
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I don't know. If that were the case, wouldn't the "Prev. Lamp Timer" counter say 5 Hours? Unless it was reset again right after the initial reset? It's only 5 hours. No big deal.

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post #11356 of 11364 Old Today, 06:50 AM
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I don't know. If that were the case, wouldn't the "Prev. Lamp Timer" counter say 5 Hours? Unless it was reset twice?
Just changing the subject a tad.


Have you played with the Auto_Iris on Full yet with your newly acquired 1000es


Would be curious what your impressions are with it engaged on some material(say Harry Potter )compared to your JVC.
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post #11357 of 11364 Old Today, 07:03 AM
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I don't know. If that were the case, wouldn't the "Prev. Lamp Timer" counter say 5 Hours? Unless it was reset again right after the initial reset? It's only 5 hours. No big deal.
My guess. Projector was run for 5 hours and had a problem. Lamp timer was reset. Sony installed a test lamp in the projector and found that it solved the problem. Sony then installed a new lamp and reset lamp timer. Test lamp was in the projector less than one hour. That is why previous lamp timer lists 0 hours.

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post #11358 of 11364 Old Today, 07:04 AM
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Just changing the subject a tad.


Have you played with the Auto_Iris on Full yet with your newly acquired 1000es


Would be curious what your impressions are with it engaged on some material(say Harry Potter )compared to your JVC.
Yes, I've played around with both Auto-Full and Auto-Limited. What I'll say is that Sony has oddly implemented the auto-iris. With everything but the darkest of content (ala Harry Potter) the iris works near-flawlessly. But when things get dark I don't think it closes down enough. I think Sony did this to try and stop clipped whites as much as possible. Though, with the right content it sometimes slightly clips whites. But I'd argue Sony could push it just a tad more, maybe 2-3 more stops down on the iris, without clipping being overly obvious. Let's just say I've seen other DLP projectors handle Harry Potter better than the 1000ES. The Sim2 Lumis and Runco LS-10i had more convincing blacks on some of the scenes compared to the 1000ES, where it can sometimes take on a slightly washed out appearance. Though the Lumis and LS-10i did have more clipped whites. It's a trade off I'd personally be willing to take if it meant better low APL content handling and I think the Sony could do it without too much clipping. The "black level" position of the iris is substantially different than the next iris position up when there's even just a few bright pixels on screen and I don't particularly like seeing the iris "pump" that much between black level and the next iris position up. If there was a way in the service menu where you could set the lowest iris position I'd change it in a heart beat to only a few stops lower than where it goes to with low APL content. It's almost as if Sony went "well...they won't know any better so let's just clamp down the **** out of it and they'll be impressed. Plus measured performance will be great too." But we aren't stupid and the difference between black level and the next step up is plainly obvious and I'd love it if there were some way to change it.

That's my only complaint. When things get dark the JVC's iris does a better job, but when things get above the low APL the Sony's iris is basically the best I've ever seen. JVC's iris needs a little work with brighter material. It's great performance for JVC's first try but sometimes you can see it "flickering" because it just can't make up it's mind on a position to set itself at. It can take a second or two to settle. You don't see that on the Sony. You RARELY notice it working with anything but the darkest of content. Recently I had a HW30ES here and I think it's iris is programmed the way I'd like the 1000ES iris programmed. For black level it only closes down a few stops lower than the next iris position up (when there's content on screen) and I loved it. With the 1000ES Sony is trying to make the projector better with contrast than it can it handle without obvious side effects. I'd like to see Sony offer an extra mode like the 30ES's in a future firmware update if they could.

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post #11359 of 11364 Old Today, 11:05 AM
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[QUOTE=Seegs108;33952290] But we aren't stupid . . . . /QUOTE]


Please don't speak for me here by charitably characterizing my level of intelligence.

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post #11360 of 11364 Old Today, 11:18 AM
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What's the difference between that and the one that actually mentions the Sony projector in the description? These types of listings are red flags for me on Ebay, besides the fact the cheaper one supposedly has a 30 day longer warranty:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-LMP-...-/111604972527

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post #11361 of 11364 Old Today, 11:33 AM
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They both mention the compatible projectors (including the 1000ES/1100ES) in the description. Not sure why they list a 30 day difference with the warranty. I suppose the easiest way to see if they're genuine is to call Philips and give them the serial number with your bulb.

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Any idea how many watts fan pulls on this unit? I had a Liebert UpStation 1500VA Double-Conversion Online Tower/Rackmount 2U UPS Refurbished (GXT2-1500RT-120B) in my last house but the fan is noisy and it was in an adjacent equipment room. Now I need a UPS for power outages but I am trying to estimate the size needed to allow lamp cooling if I turn off the PJ when the power goes out. Do I need a sine wave unit for the fan? Has anyone timed how long the fan runs? Suggestions?
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post #11363 of 11364 Old Today, 07:21 PM
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I am looking at 3 ups

1. Cyberpower
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00429...kVL&ref=plSrch

2. Apc
http://www.apc.com/products/resource...LK&tab=options

3. Panamax or furman. They both look the same
http://www.furmansound.com/product.p...d=F1500-UPS_CE

http://www.panamax.com/Products/Batt...kup/MB1500.php

The cheapest is the cyber power, then the furman. Panamax and apc is about the same price.

Anyone recommend one of these?
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@seegs


Thanks for your observations!
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