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post #2071 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveN View Post

thrang,
How many hours would it take on the bulb before banding appeared? Was it always present and got worse or did it first appear after X number of hours?

Dave

In the case of the original purchased unit, i didn't go looking for anything, so I would say I noticed it around 10 hours in (watching golf)

With the second and third units, I did look for it at the start, and while there, it was minimal at 0 hours. Within the first 5 or 10 hours it began to increase in intensity to sort of what you see now.

With the second unit (the first replacement), the banding seemingly lessened prior to returning it (around 200 hours); I might have kept that unit, but it still had the very noticeable reddish tint at the bottom that was very unacceptable, and there was no assurance the the banding in mid screen wouldn't return..

This second replacement unit is at 50 hours with the latest image...
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post #2072 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMike View Post

This isn't the same review that used the preproduction unit that wasn't full brightness, is it? I didn't see a newer review but I may have missed it.

negative, it was a production model that they just reviewed in the May issue. The majority of the article is focused on 3D performance.
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post #2073 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

joe - aren't you using it on the high gain screen though? The context of the review was how bright in 2D the projector was on a low gain screen, yet the reviewer was disappointed in the 3D performance on the same screen. I was expecting 1500-2000 lumens in 3D mode, but don't recall anyone posting actual measurements of the light output in 3D mode or through the glasses.

Actually no. For 3D I use a matte white 1.4 screen. I love having the two screen set up. And having the position change by remote for both custom screen sizes makes life easier. Plus my electric 3D screen was only about 250! Can't beat that!

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post #2074 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

Actually no. For 3D I use a matte white 1.4 screen. I love having the two screen set up. And having the position change by remote for both custom screen sizes makes life easier. Plus my electric 3D screen was only about 250! Can't beat that!

Just out of curiosity, isn't the 1.4 a drop in gain from your normal screen? Why do you step down for 3D?
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post #2075 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMundt View Post

Just out of curiosity, isn't the 1.4 a drop in gain from your normal screen? Why do you step down for 3D?

Most likely smaller and closer therefore much brighter
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post #2076 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 07:43 PM
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It's funny...watching HDTV through Directv, the image is so butchered some/most of the time I was thinking for a while something was wrong with the 1000. I hadn't watched a blu ray in a couple weeks, and watched one last night and the image was beyond awesome! what a relief. Anyone experience similar harshness to broadcast tv?

I also found that using my cinema settings made directv look better than the tv settings. I was trying to get that joerod pop, but the pic just looked too orangey....using one setting for both is pleasing to this persons eyes...

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post #2077 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMundt View Post

Just out of curiosity, isn't the 1.4 a drop in gain from your normal screen? Why do you step down for 3D?

My Vutec SS is too bright! Seriously. Also the glasses have a tougher time as far as tilting goes. With the 120" electric screen you can stand on your head and the image is stable. The SS is not a good combo for 3D. Great for football and Blu ray movies but misses the mark for 3D.

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post #2078 of 10123 Old 04-11-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

My Vutec SS is too bright! Seriously. Also the glasses have a tougher time as far as tilting goes. With the 120" electric screen you can stand on your head and the image is stable. The SS is not a good combo for 3D. Great for football and Blu ray movies but misses the mark for 3D.

I stand corrected. I glanced over your webpage when I first started looking at the sony but dont remember reading about the glasses you use.

I know you host quite a few sessions and am wondering what to get for my kids. Any that you would suggest over another for youth?
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post #2079 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

My Vutec SS is too bright! Seriously. Also the glasses have a tougher time as far as tilting goes. With the 120" electric screen you can stand on your head and the image is stable. The SS is not a good combo for 3D. Great for football and Blu ray movies but misses the mark for 3D.

Just reading the newest issue of Home Theater Magazine, the reviewer was pretty tough on the 1000's 3D brightness. He states that brightness (through the glasses) is about 8% of the total 2D light output. So, 8% of roughly 1600 lumens equates to 128 lumens-- is that roughly what you guys are getting? Seems a little low to me...
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post #2080 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post


@ adidino - I don't have an issue with the article since the author did take the time to measure ft-L through the glasses. This topic is relatively subjective without specific measurements through the glasses and the reviewer did have all 3 projectors in the same room, on the same screen.

The Vw1000 measured 2.1 ft-L, the X70 just under 2.0 ft-L and the VW95 ~2.4 ft-L. He claims to have done everything possible to maximize the brightness in 3D on the 1000. This is why I was asking others who own the projector who might have measured the actual performance in 3D.

Sorry. I realized later that I was thinking of the review on "home theater review" website. I only realized after receiving my copy of Home Theater Magazine that you were referring to a new review.

Anyway, I still have to believe that his process for measuring brightness in 3D is flawed. I only make that point because I know what I am seeing with my own eyes and I have personally watched 3D on all the projectors referred in the review. There is no way the VW95 is brighter than the VW1000 in 3D mode. And it is certainly not true that the JVC is close to the VW1000 in brightness. 3D was a priority for me when making my purchase and the VW1000 was the winner by a landslide.

I don't recall if this was mentioned in the article if all 3 projectors were at the same throw distance or that measuring fl through glasses is a proper procedure?

I'm sure Thrang can attest to this as well as he also has experience with all three projectors.
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post #2081 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

Sorry. I realized later that I was thinking of the review on "home theater review" website. I only realized after receiving my copy of Home Theater Magazine that you were referring to a new review.

Anyway, I still have to believe that his process for measuring brightness in 3D is flawed. I only make that point because I know what I am seeing with my own eyes and I have personally watched 3D on all the projectors referred in the review. There is no way the VW95 is brighter than the VW1000 in 3D mode. And there it is certainly not true that the JVC is close to the VW1000. 3D was a priority for me when making the purchase. I don't recall if this was mentioned in the article if all 3 projectors were at the same throw distance.

I'm sure Thrang can attest to this as well as he also has experience with all three projectors.

Same here. +1

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post #2082 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 06:17 AM
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thanks for the replies. I'm surprised there hasn't been any other reported measurements of the lumen output in 3D mode or ft-L through the glasses. If you guys are calling the HT reviewer out on improperly measuring, hopefully someone can break out the light meter since that article could give people the wrong idea.

He spent the majority of the article going over the projector trying to find more light in 3D, so I'm curious what could have been wrong.
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post #2083 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 06:21 AM
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[quote=zombie10k

He spent the majority of the article going over the projector trying to find more light in 3D, so I'm curious what could have been wrong.[/QUOTE]

He should have read my Review to get the best settings to at least start with. Then tweak them some to match his screen.

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post #2084 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 06:25 AM
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I'd still like to see a few non-subjective measurements, it doesn't take long at all. The same issue gave glowing praise to the cheapie 5010 for it's 3D brightness which I've measured ~ 1500 lumens in a D65 calibrated torch mode.
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post #2085 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMundt View Post


Just reading the newest issue of Home Theater Magazine, the reviewer was pretty tough on the 1000's 3D brightness. He states that brightness (through the glasses) is about 8% of the total 2D light output. So, 8% of roughly 1600 lumens equates to 128 lumens-- is that roughly what you guys are getting? Seems a little low to me...

I just remembered I hadn't tried 3d since getting my replacement. So, I just did and it's certainly brighter than 8% of total 2d light output. It's plenty bright at 14 foot throw on a 110" screen.

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post #2086 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 08:20 AM
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A German magazine "Audiovision" has measured the following on these projectors in 3D:

Sony VW1000 120 lumens
Sony VW 90 60 lumens
Sony HW 30 80 lumens
Epson TW9000 200 lumens (3D Cinema) 283 lumens (Dynamic 3D)
JVC DLA-X70 90 lumens (70 lumens THX)
Panasonic PT-AT5000 100 lumens

All measurements were made behind the glasses.
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post #2087 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mookie b View Post


I just remembered I hadn't tried 3d since getting my replacement. So, I just did and it's certainly brighter than 8% of total 2d light output. It's plenty bright at 14 foot throw on a 110" screen.

110" with what gain? Thanks!

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post #2088 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
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110" with what gain? Thanks!

Sorry, 1.4...

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post #2089 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 11:58 AM
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Off topic, but this is a hilarious perspective... just thought I would share since I have been embedded in this thread for the last few months...

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/03/hammerforum-com
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post #2090 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 12:09 PM
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Off topic, but this is a hilarious perspective... just thought I would share since I have been embedded in this thread for the last few months...

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/03/hammerforum-com

I thought I knew what hammer to use to mount my Sony 1000, but now I'm second guessing myself.
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post #2091 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adidino View Post

Sorry. I realized later that I was thinking of the review on "home theater review" website. I only realized after receiving my copy of Home Theater Magazine that you were referring to a new review.

Anyway, I still have to believe that his process for measuring brightness in 3D is flawed. I only make that point because I know what I am seeing with my own eyes and I have personally watched 3D on all the projectors referred in the review. There is no way the VW95 is brighter than the VW1000 in 3D mode. And it is certainly not true that the JVC is close to the VW1000 in brightness. 3D was a priority for me when making my purchase and the VW1000 was the winner by a landslide.

I don't recall if this was mentioned in the article if all 3 projectors were at the same throw distance or that measuring fl through glasses is a proper procedure?

I'm sure Thrang can attest to this as well as he also has experience with all three projectors.


Agreed, at least with my units...
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post #2092 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrang View Post

How many here run in High Lamp vs Normal Lamp mode?

I run in Normal, and the banding is more obvious in this mode - if most here run High, perhaps that's one reason why it's not noticed as much. I'm on my third unit, and all have had the banding on internal gamma patterns screens as well as external sources. Short of their being some insanely odd power issue which has never affected any other projector or any other equipment, I don't know where else to investigate on my end.

The only other thing that seemed to affect the banding that I could test was sending the 1000 a native 4k signal from my media PC - this also reduced the banding affect (at least in the prior unit - haven't checked with the current replacement)

Curious if those who run on High switch to Normal, and look at some 15 to 40% greyscale patterns, do you see any banding? (and I know, looking for issues in patterns is not the end game, but I do see it in certain actual content, as the golf video posted several pages back shows)

The difference with this unit is the banding is the same place (in the original unit, it would appear in different places over several hours of viewing), and I don't have the separate reddish discoloration at the bottom (though only about 55 hours usage so far). However, you can begin to see the bottom edge turning more yellowish on the bottom, so I hope this does not return (not noticeable at this point on normal viewing however)



Thrang

I do think that because you are using a HP 2.8 gain screen makes the banding a lot more visible ( not that it should be there at all ) then for others - have you testet it on a lower gain screens like 0,9 - 1.3 gain ?

( where I think, it will lesser visible or invisible and that could explain, why some people do see it and some not - a combination off variable degree off banding in the projector and the screen materiale who can excaturate or lower the visiblity off it ) ?

dj
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post #2093 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Thrang

I do think that because you are using a HP 2.8 gain screen makes the banding a lot more visible ( not that it should be there at all ) then for others - have you testet it on a lower gain screens like 0,9 - 1.3 gain ?

( where I think, it will lesser visible or invisible and that could explain, why some people do see it and some not - a combination off variable degree off banding in the projector and the screen materiale who can excaturate or lower the visiblity off it ) ?

dj

No, I can hold a piece of copier paper in front of the lens, and the issue does not change. I have other screen materials samples, and holding in that area shows the same issue. Screen has no impact on the issue.

Here I'm holding a Stewart Filmscreen sample (don't remember which at the time) in front of the lens.

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post #2094 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 05:21 PM
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I just put in a VW1000, and it is not turning on in response to control signals from a Savant system. It does respond properly to the turn-off signal. Anyone else encounter an issue like this with the Sony?
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post #2095 of 10123 Old 04-12-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katzha View Post

I just put in a VW1000, and it is not turning on in response to control signals from a Savant system. It does respond properly to the turn-off signal. Anyone else encounter an issue like this with the Sony?

I don't know for sure, but check to see if the projector has "Eco" or "energy saving" settings. My old Sharp powered down the serial ports by default, and you had to change a setting if you wanted to use a serial signal to turn it in.

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post #2096 of 10123 Old 04-13-2012, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
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Can somebody email me the throw distance calculator for the 1000ES?

Thank you mrt-cuh@superonline.com

Sent. I think that is still linked in a post here somewhere, this thread needs a sticky ...

EDIT: non-deliverable because of overzealous spam blocking on your end, get a new ISP...

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post #2097 of 10123 Old 04-13-2012, 02:52 AM
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Am I missing anything in this list of "common" issues with this projector, I am nearing my 90 day window, and I have an integrator visit this weekend so I want to make sure I test everything.

-banding issues
-convergence (I have a lot of shift now but I guess it can be corrected to a certain extent?)
-dust blobs/"splotches"/green spots on image

New issue, anyone else?
-lens shift memories do not precisely return to saved positions, for example, between aspect ratios.

Matt
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post #2098 of 10123 Old 04-13-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Ha! I sold my Cadillac CTS-V to fund the 1000 and an overhaul / redesign of my theater room. The RS20 was my most expensive projector before this and I had stated a few times that I would not buy a bulb projector again, nor a projector over $10k. Sony made me a liar twice!

Funny I had the same criteria although this was my first projector, but I was considering going up to 15k if I thought I could get enough years out of the projector. So I guess I will have this Sony for quite a while, or find something to sell to fund an upgrade...

Matt
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post #2099 of 10123 Old 04-13-2012, 11:04 AM
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I posted in the other thread but no response yet... can the other owners please let me know what you used for mounts and if your happy or not with hem if your using a ceiling mount? I'm hearing about a chief mount with Sony plates but are there other options and is there any mount (or do they all) allow you change out the bulb and filter with a ceiling mount with out taking the unit down?

Thanks!
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post #2100 of 10123 Old 04-13-2012, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turls View Post

Am I missing anything in this list of "common" issues with this projector, I am nearing my 90 day window, and I have an integrator visit this weekend so I want to make sure I test everything.

-banding issues
-convergence (I have a lot of shift now but I guess it can be corrected to a certain extent?)
-dust blobs/"splotches"/green spots on image

New issue, anyone else?
-lens shift memories do not precisely return to saved positions, for example, between aspect ratios.

Does lens shift affect convergence? To what degree?
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