OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 115 - AVS Forum
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post #3421 of 4432 Old 04-29-2012, 06:40 PM
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Gonna get flamed but I'm going to raise the BS flag a bit on pro cal. On a slightly side note, Best Buy is known for having the same source plugged in via composite (uncalibrated) vs. HDMI (calibrated) to show the "differences."

A friend has a JVC D-ILA and he hired an ISF-certified technician from a specialty HT retailer to calibrate it (not from the Geek Squad). We made certain to take a thorough "mental image" of his self-calibrated picture quality before the tech did his thing.

The tech was very polite and seemed very knowledgeable. He spent two hours on the JVC and then took his $600 and left. Was there an improvement in picture quality? Nominally, yes. Was it a $600 knock-your-socks-off, I'm-glad-I-didn't-buy-anything-else improvement in picture quality? HELLZ TO THE NO.

Conclusion: pro cal did make a difference; but it was a $50-$100 difference at most and laughably not close to $600. My friend felt like one of PT Barnum's suckers afterwards so set your expectations accordingly.

P.S.: I've noticed that PJs are replaced at a faster rate than regular flat displays, generally around the time when bulbs need to be replaced. Keep in mind that if you calibrate and get the "3D perhaps LED engine" upgrade bug when the bulb is running low, you'll have to pay the snake oil guy, I mean the ISF-certified calibrator again to get the new PJ "calibrated."
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post #3422 of 4432 Old 04-29-2012, 06:43 PM
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Construction should be done next week. Is it best to mount the projected as close as possible for the size screen you want or as far away as possible? I have a 120" diag screen and my total room length is 20'10".

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Panasonic AE7000

120" Screen

Def Tech PM65s X 2, CS8080, SR8080BP X 4

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Denon XS4000

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post #3423 of 4432 Old 04-29-2012, 10:43 PM
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Hi guys, just got an AE7000 which I love but have one small question. Every time I turn it on it starts with a white screen, so I shut it down, restart and it's fine but I have to redo the keystone and reload my lens memory setting. It's almost like it is going back to factory default every time I shut it down. Suggestions?
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post #3424 of 4432 Old 04-30-2012, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jforce66 View Post

Hi guys, just got an AE7000 which I love but have one small question. Every time I turn it on it starts with a white screen, so I shut it down, restart and it's fine but I have to redo the keystone and reload my lens memory setting. It's almost like it is going back to factory default every time I shut it down. Suggestions?

Concratulations, you're the first poster I've heard have this problem. There is a 'Default' button on the remote that might be the culprit. Take out the batteries in the remote and start the pj from the unit itself and see what happens. If it starts OK, then the remote is the problem and will need replacing. If not, then I don't know what to tell you except send it back to the seller for a replacement or refund.

Wolfie
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post #3425 of 4432 Old 04-30-2012, 08:04 AM
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Hi Guys,

I finally got everything in place and watch my first movie with the new Panny last night. I tried for a whole day but could not get the zoom feature to work.

Essentially, I have the source (2.35) zoom up and adjusted to fit by SI screen (2.40 at 110") perfectly. Now, when the source is (16:9) and I zoomed out, I can't get the picture to fit within my screen unless I manually adjusted the lens shift with the joystick on the actual projector.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks
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post #3426 of 4432 Old 04-30-2012, 08:05 AM
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Also, distance from PJ to screen is 12 feet, PJ is ceiling mounted at around 9.4 ft
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post #3427 of 4432 Old 04-30-2012, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Basile View Post

Regarding the frame dropping, I purchased the new Apple TV and rented a movie and was slightly distracted by a frame being dropped every few moments. I changed the frame rate response on the projector and that did help the problem, however what eliminated the problem was changing a setting on my receiver. The receiver was set for 24fps on this input while the Apple TV displays at 60fps. Set for AUTO instead of 1080p:24fps, this fixed the issue. I returned the projector to normal frame rate. Hope this helps.

There are no settings related to frame rate on my receiver. When I look in the projector menus it says the signal is 1080p/60. Also, when I bypassed the receiver completely it made no difference. An Xbox 360 set to 1080p, connected directly to the projector through HDMI, should provide smooth DVD and HD-DVD playback. I know the playback was perfect when connected to the Epson 8700UB and the BenQ W6000.
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post #3428 of 4432 Old 04-30-2012, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by baysic View Post

Uggh I'm on my third unit and it has started to flicker again. I'm really starting to believe that every one of these units is defective and they all flicker at some point, but perhaps consumers think it's normal or something. I've read through a lot of the posts, but not sure if anyone has answered whether or not this gets permantly corrected when sent in for repair.

No replies?? I would really like to get a handle on how many units experience the flickering. Seeing that I've had three, I'd have to imagine I'm not that unlucky. Isn't anyone here really worried about what's going to happen once the one year manufacturers warranty is up? I'm also very surprised to hear that people have settled for so called riding out the flicker. What if it reappears out of warranty and you could have had it addressed and at least documented by Panasonic under warranty. There just seems to be such a cavalier attitude and I'm not sure I get it. There's definitely something wrong with this unit and Panasonic seems to be skirting disclosure and accountability.
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post #3429 of 4432 Old 04-30-2012, 09:08 PM
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I'm having a hard time understanding what you all mean by "flicker". Is this different than the "frame dropping" that is occurring on 1080/60i?

I have the Dish Network Joey DVR hooked up to this Panny and it appears to be dropping frames and stuttering quite often. I also have the Hopper hooked up to a Panasonic VT30 plasma and another Joey hooked up to a Sony XBR4. Neither of those have any frame dropping or stuttering issues. So, it has to be the 7000U.

To me, it looks like the video processor is not processing the video properly when fed specific frame rates. For example, 24fps 1080p is fine. 1080/60i, not so much.

Chet
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post #3430 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baysic View Post

No replies?? I would really like to get a handle on how many units experience the flickering. Seeing that I've had three, I'd have to imagine I'm not that unlucky. Isn't anyone here really worried about what's going to happen once the one year manufacturers warranty is up? I'm also very surprised to hear that people have settled for so called riding out the flicker. What if it reappears out of warranty and you could have had it addressed and at least documented by Panasonic under warranty. There just seems to be such a cavalier attitude and I'm not sure I get it. There's definitely something wrong with this unit and Panasonic seems to be skirting disclosure and accountability.

How old is the house you are using the 7000 in? Is your projector power in regulated by a power conditioner? Irregular power can and will jeopardize the picture stability and cause flicker. Have your voltage in checked by a qualified electrician.

Wolfie
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post #3431 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post

How old is the house you are using the 7000 in? Is your projector power in regulated by a power conditioner? Irregular power can and will jeopardize the picture stability and cause flicker. Have your voltage in checked by a qualified electrician.

Wolfie

The projector has a built in regulator, so this is a non-issue.
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post #3432 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 12:13 PM
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I know this is going to be a very BROAD question, but I could really use some technical expertise on this topic:

When programming the Harmony 900 remote, I am quickly learning that I do not want to control this projector using IR. I would much rather go the RS-232 route. Here are the two problems I'm running into.
  1. I don't know anything about programming RS-232. What do I need?
  2. I would still like to use the Harmony 900 to send IR to somthing that converts the IR codes to RS-232 commands that the projector will understand.

So, for example, I would like to switch inputs on the projector without having to use IR to cycle through all of the inputs. I would like to push one button on the remote that sends an IR code to something that receives the code and then switches the projector directly to that input.

A better example is this Lens Memory feature. I want to push one button on the Harmony, send IR code to something that receives the IR code, converts it to the correct RS-232 command that changes the projector to that lens memory setting.

I know the projector's IR remote makes you push a sequence of buttons just to load a Lens Memory or switch inputs. I don't want to do that because IR is so hit or miss (trying to set up delays is so stupid) and the Harmony can't really do sequences for this sort of thing.

If you are an RS-232 expert and would like to take this to PM, just let me know.

Thanks!!!

Chet
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post #3433 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kthejoker20 View Post

The projector has a built in regulator, so this is a non-issue.

Yes, almost all electronic devices use a regulator of some sort, but a regulator only works within its specs.
This projector is designed to run at no lower than 100 VAC when drawing 3.5 Amps. If you have low line voltage to begin with and you are cranking your audio and whatever other items are trying to draw current on the same circuit, you could very easily have voltage drops below the minimum voltage needed to run this unit.
It may not even be because of your home setup, power companies do not allway provide clean power, and if your neighbors are "heavy users" your gear can suffer.
I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit for my AV system and I also use a APC S15 power conditioner with battery backup to be sure NOTHING interrupts my setup.
Until you can prove you have good AC power, you need to consider it to be the cause of your grief
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post #3434 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I'm having a hard time understanding what you all mean by "flicker". Is this different than the "frame dropping" that is occurring on 1080/60i?

I have the Dish Network Joey DVR hooked up to this Panny and it appears to be dropping frames and stuttering quite often. I also have the Hopper hooked up to a Panasonic VT30 plasma and another Joey hooked up to a Sony XBR4. Neither of those have any frame dropping or stuttering issues. So, it has to be the 7000U.

To me, it looks like the video processor is not processing the video properly when fed specific frame rates. For example, 24fps 1080p is fine. 1080/60i, not so much.

The flicker is the same as the one that has been mentioned on this board many times. Dsando posted a video of it on youtube. His was severe, but all three units I've had have had varying degrees of this exact flicker.
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post #3435 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post

How old is the house you are using the 7000 in? Is your projector power in regulated by a power conditioner? Irregular power can and will jeopardize the picture stability and cause flicker. Have your voltage in checked by a qualified electrician.

Wolfie

I live in a new construction home less than two years old. I owned the PTAE4000U prior and did not have any issues with flicker whatsoever. If my three units are any idication of the prevalence of this issue, then Panasonic should really be issuing a recall for proactive repair or an extended warranty to fix this particular issue should it ever arise outside of the one year manufacturers warranty.
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post #3436 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baysic View Post

I live in a new construction home less than two years old. I owned the PTAE4000U prior and did not have any issues with flicker whatsoever. If my three units are any idication of the prevalence of this issue, then Panasonic should really be issuing a recall for proactive repair or an extended warranty to fix this particular issue should it ever arise outside of the one year manufacturers warranty.

I thought these projectors have a 2 year warranty? Also, if you bought during the promo time, it gets extended to a 3 year warranty.

Chet
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post #3437 of 4432 Old 05-01-2012, 10:02 PM
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I have 621 hours on mine and haven't seen any flickering issues or frame dropping.
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post #3438 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baysic View Post


I live in a new construction home less than two years old. I owned the PTAE4000U prior and did not have any issues with flicker whatsoever. If my three units are any idication of the prevalence of this issue, then Panasonic should really be issuing a recall for proactive repair or an extended warranty to fix this particular issue should it ever arise outside of the one year manufacturers warranty.

This flickr issue does seem to be pretty bad and widespread. I received my projector back from Panasonic and all theu replaced with the lamp. It's not flickering now though, but it took about 1000 hours for the flicker to show up.
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post #3439 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I thought these projectors have a 2 year warranty? Also, if you bought during the promo time, it gets extended to a 3 year warranty.

I purchased when it first came out so I don't qualify for the extended warranty. Customer support verified a one year warranty.
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post #3440 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newHTowner View Post

Also, distance from PJ to screen is 12 feet, PJ is ceiling mounted at around 9.4 ft

Seems you got buried by all the flicker stuff. The answer to your question is that most likely you have the projector mounted too high to use the zoom feature for switching formats. The projector lens must be no higher than the top of the screen for it to work without requiring tweaking the joystick. Since you have a high ceiling, I assume the screen can be high enough that you just need a short extension on the projector mount to make it line up. My ceiling is 8' so I can't get my 7000 low enough without hitting people's heads. Luckily, I use an anamorphic lens anyway so I only need to mess with the joystick for the rare 3D 2.4:1 movie where I can't use V stretch.
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post #3441 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowellG View Post

Construction should be done next week. Is it best to mount the projected as close as possible for the size screen you want or as far away as possible? I have a 120" diag screen and my total room length is 20'10".

As close as possible; due to the way zoom optics inside the projector works, this gets more light.
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post #3442 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

I know this is going to be a very BROAD question, but I could really use some technical expertise on this topic:

When programming the Harmony 900 remote, I am quickly learning that I do not want to control this projector using IR. I would much rather go the RS-232 route. Here are the two problems I'm running into.
  1. I don't know anything about programming RS-232. What do I need?
  2. I would still like to use the Harmony 900 to send IR to somthing that converts the IR codes to RS-232 commands that the projector will understand.

So, for example, I would like to switch inputs on the projector without having to use IR to cycle through all of the inputs. I would like to push one button on the remote that sends an IR code to something that receives the code and then switches the projector directly to that input.

A better example is this Lens Memory feature. I want to push one button on the Harmony, send IR code to something that receives the IR code, converts it to the correct RS-232 command that changes the projector to that lens memory setting.

I know the projector's IR remote makes you push a sequence of buttons just to load a Lens Memory or switch inputs. I don't want to do that because IR is so hit or miss (trying to set up delays is so stupid) and the Harmony can't really do sequences for this sort of thing.

If you are an RS-232 expert and would like to take this to PM, just let me know.

Thanks!!!

Nobody? I thought there were a lot of RS-232 folks around here.

Chet
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post #3443 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Nobody? I thought there were a lot of RS-232 folks around here.

Everything you want to know is here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1206105

RS-232 is the only way to control the 4000/7000
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post #3444 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Everything you want to know is here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1206105

RS-232 is the only way to control the 4000/7000

You are the MAN! THANK YOU!!!

Chet
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post #3445 of 4432 Old 05-02-2012, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kthejoker20 View Post

The projector has a built in regulator, so this is a non-issue.

But a 'power conditioner' is diferent.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie View Post

But a 'power conditioner' is diferent.

So is "snake oil"
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post #3447 of 4432 Old 05-03-2012, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowellG View Post

Construction should be done next week. Is it best to mount the projected as close as possible for the size screen you want or as far away as possible? I have a 120" diag screen and my total room length is 20'10".

Any advice

Lowell

 

Panasonic AE7000

120" Screen

Def Tech PM65s X 2, CS8080, SR8080BP X 4

PSA XS30 X 2

Denon XS4000

Outlaw Audio 7125

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post #3448 of 4432 Old 05-03-2012, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowellG View Post


Any advice

Pterodactyl answered you yesterday. Search back.
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post #3449 of 4432 Old 05-04-2012, 10:19 AM
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JUST FYI ABOUT 3D GHOSTING.

My experience:

I first tried a silverfire screen 5.5, and had heavy ghosting on this PJ.

I then went to Behr SS, and still heavy ghosting.

I then tried max mudd over my screen and still little ghosting.

Then I tried the Sherman Williams ProClassic Smooth Enamle b20 w51 and absolutley NO ghosting. Even on Dynamic, with lamp on normal, and glasses on light and clarity on 7. NO ghosting.

This is just my experience, and others my vary. Just another option for ya'll to try out for those that can paint their screen.

I suspect, the screen may have a part in the ghosting people are reporting.
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post #3450 of 4432 Old 05-05-2012, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowellG View Post

I picked up two cheap 3D movies and some PS3 3D glasses. The movies were Cars 2 and Conan. I don't know if it was the movies, or a settings issue, but the 3D depth into the screen was fine, but nothing popped off the screen; the same when for Motor Storm when I played it. Is there a setting or was it just the movie?

Thanks,

I figured out the answer to my question. It's page 68 in the owners manual. The only thing I can't figure out how to do is save it so I don't have to set it on every single 3D movie. :-)

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Def Tech PM65s X 2, CS8080, SR8080BP X 4

PSA XS30 X 2

Denon XS4000

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