OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 117 - AVS Forum
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post #3481 of 4432 Old 05-09-2012, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xereau View Post

Does anyone elses projector look like the picture I posted?

Mine has a little a bit of that, blue fringing along one edge or misconvergence but your's looks extra bad going by that photo.
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post #3482 of 4432 Old 05-09-2012, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Doesn't have to be. The lense just can't be any higher then the top of the screen.

Lens memory remembers the settings of zoom and focus, but not the lens shift, right?
The top of 2.35 and 1.78 image will be at the same height, but my 1.78 image will be higher then 2.35 image. h=7'1"(1.78) and h=6'2"(2.35)
So, when I'll switch from 16/9 to 2.35/1, I guess, I should correct the vertical lens shift manually.
Right? or I miss something? Thanks.
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post #3483 of 4432 Old 05-09-2012, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvy111 View Post

My screen is 160" 16:9 High power 2.8 gain projecting at 5.4m from lens to screen. There's a little bit left in the zoom so I would say it could do close 170" at that distance. Projecting at 6m won't be a problem. I think the manual is refering to the glasses having a range of 6m from the projector before they lose sync.

For 2D there is plenty of lumens for a screen that size even if it has only moderate gain. The bright cinema modes on the Pana are quite bright. For 3D I don't think it's bright enough though even on my High Power screen I find it lacking, you lose about 80-90% of your light through the glasses and it kills the image, atleast it does for me. You would be better off with the Epson 5010 but I still don't think it would be bright enough.

Thanks for reply You're absolutely right about the lumens. I'll have to increase budget. That doesn't makes me happy, but seems like I will buy Epson 6010 with a-lens. It'll let me use all of lumens and pixels in scope mode also. Not sure yet, I really don't want to use money for a-lens may be 5010 without lens... I don't know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvy111 View Post

What you can do is digitally shift the scope image up or down within the black bars of the 16:9 framing that way you don't need to use lens shift. I haven't tried it but it should work.

That's very interesting. Can panny really shift the image up or down without using the lens shift?
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post #3484 of 4432 Old 05-09-2012, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Xereau View Post

Attachment 245870

Well I rma'd and got a call yesterday. Was told this was normal. I just refuse to believe that. What would y'all suggest?

I suggest telling them they're wrong. From your picture at least, that convergence looks pretty bad.

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post #3485 of 4432 Old 05-09-2012, 04:24 PM
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I'm having a problem powering up my ae7000, the remote won't wait the 30 seconds to power up before it switches the input, therefore I have to do it manually every time I power it up. I had 2 other projectors before this one and both didn't have this problem, they both waited the 30 seconds and the remote would say "powering on devices". I've tried troubleshooting it with no luck, it brings me to the delays screen but putting the power on delay to 30000 ms does nothing. Please help!!
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post #3486 of 4432 Old 05-09-2012, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronaldore View Post

I'm having a problem powering up my ae7000, the remote won't wait the 30 seconds to power up before it switches the input, therefore I have to do it manually every time I power it up. I had 2 other projectors before this one and both didn't have this problem, they both waited the 30 seconds and the remote would say "powering on devices". I've tried troubleshooting it with no luck, it brings me to the delays screen but putting the power on delay to 30000 ms does nothing. Please help!!

Which Harmony do you have? I just experienced the same problem this evening and I have addressed it. I'm using the Harmony 900.
  1. On the Activities tab, click the Settings button on the activity that you want the input delay (you will have to repeat this for each activity that requires an input change).
  2. Select the Review the settings for this Activity option and press the NEXT > button.
  3. Select the Yes, but I want to add more control of options and devices for this Activity. option and press the NEXT > button.
  4. Click the SAVE button.
  5. Select the input you require and press the NEXT > button.
  6. If you have a receiver that switched inputs, select the correct input and press the NEXT > button.
  7. This is where it gets fun...in the "enter this Activity" table on the top, it will say, "Add action for" and then a drop-down menu. Select the Projector from the menu. Then click the Add> button.
  8. Change the "Send this infrared delay:" drop-down menu to "10 seconds" and press the NEXT > button.
  9. You should now see the "The remote pauses for 10000 milliseconds" action at the bottom of the table on top.
  10. Make sure the projector is still selected from the drop-down menu and click the Add> button again.
  11. This time, change the "Set it to this input:" drop-down menu to the input you require and select the NEXT > button.
  12. You should now see an additional entry for changing the input on the projector. Click the SAVE > button.
  13. Review everything finalize.

If you need more time, you can always add more pause entries to the table. The only problem is that every time you switch between activities (even if your projector is already on) you'll have to wait until all of the IR has been sent before you can use the remote for anything else. Small price to pay for having it all work correctly.

If you have the Harmony ONE, it may be a little different for you, but I can't help you with that one.

Let me know.

Chet
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post #3487 of 4432 Old 05-10-2012, 12:48 AM
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post #3488 of 4432 Old 05-10-2012, 01:02 AM
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post #3489 of 4432 Old 05-10-2012, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yusuf.0088 View Post

Lens memory remembers the settings of zoom and focus, but not the lens shift, right?
The top of 2.35 and 1.78 image will be at the same height, but my 1.78 image will be higher then 2.35 image. h=7'1"(1.78) and h=6'2"(2.35)
So, when I'll switch from 16/9 to 2.35/1, I guess, I should correct the vertical lens shift manually.
Right? or I miss something? Thanks.

No you use image position or something it is called in the lense memory settings, this is saved with the rest of the settings. It allows you to move the 2.35 image down. No reason to ever use the manual shift.
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post #3490 of 4432 Old 05-10-2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

No you use image position or something it is called in the lense memory settings, this is saved with the rest of the settings. It allows you to move the 2.35 image down. No reason to ever use the manual shift.

I deleted my post because I was wrong, there is seperate vertical image shift in the lens control menu that allows you to position the scope image anywhere within the 16:9 framing that then can be saved to memory. I tried it and it works very well, no need to adjust lense shift as long as the scope image falls within the 16:9 framing, this does restrict how much lens shift you can use though, it could be a problem if you mounted the projector directly on ceiling for example.
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post #3491 of 4432 Old 05-10-2012, 10:58 AM
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Mine is mounted up side down to the ceiling and I can adjust the 2.35:1 image vertically easily without problems. The only issue I had with my 3000 at first is that I set the vertical at 28 and did a memory save. After that I never reset it manually to 0 so before I got on to the solution, my picture was always 28 down after a fresh projecter start because 28 was the last manually set setting. After I manually put it back at 0, it also started the 16:9 at vertical offset. I guess the 7000 will do the same but never tested it.


Flickering:
I own a 5000 (220V) and read lots about flickering but always on the 7000. Are there 5000 users with the same problem?
Are there 220Volt users with the flickering problem?
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post #3492 of 4432 Old 05-11-2012, 06:34 AM
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Has anyone used chromapure/display3 pro to calibrate this projector? If so, what meter setting/mode did you use? Also, what were the results like?
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post #3493 of 4432 Old 05-12-2012, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Hyper,

I've been off the forum for a couple weeks and was wondering if you got anywhere with your problem?

Panasonic called me today and essentially wanted me to do the same things I have already done. Try a shorter HDMI cable. I told them my cables are short. They said try a different brand. I told them all my cables are Monoprice cables. The guy told me people who are higher up the chain than him told him that Monoprice cables can be a problem. I found that to be a surprising statement as I have never heard anything but good things about Monoprice cables and I have been buying them for years. I use them with all my displays and with all the projectors I've had before the PT-AE7000U and this is the only time I've ever seen an issue. I went ahead and got a different brand cable from a friend and it did not make a difference which is what I expected.

One thing that was a little bit of a problem is that he said the problem is almost certainly the source. I told him these same devices and cables worked fine with other projectors at the same resolution and this is the second PT-AE7000U I have tried with the same issue. I also told him that I have seen a number of other people reporting the same issue here. He said that they have not been getting reports of this problem. So if you are seeing this issue please call Panasonic and get a case opened. It seems they are going to need to receive enough calls about this before they will consider that the projector might have an issue.

They should be calling me again within the next few days. I will report again when I have more information.
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post #3494 of 4432 Old 05-12-2012, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Eye View Post

Panasonic called me today and essentially wanted me to do the same things I have already done. Try a shorter HDMI cable. I told them my cables are short. They said try a different brand. I told them all my cables are Monoprice cables. The guy told me people who are higher up the chain than him told him that Monoprice cables can be a problem.

Them they they need to invest in an education about how HDMI cables actually work. The signal is DIGITAL and NOT ANALOG so if you're getting a picture, the HDMI cable is doing it's job properly. The HDMI cable links two devices that sent 1's and 0's back and forth. So, if it's working, you get a picture, if it's not, you don't. It really is that simple. Anything that is like image shift or dropped frames or ANYTHING like that, it's either the source or the display device. It's NOT the cable.

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post #3495 of 4432 Old 05-13-2012, 12:39 AM
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Wow, that's a bold statement and you couldn't be more wrong.

HDMI cables run 1's and 0's yes but without a checksum and at very high bandwidth without a twist in the cable pairs like CAT 5 and up does.
A 1 or 0 can be easily deformed directly resulting in artifacts when you are lucky or loss of EDID when not so lucky.

Voltage drops over length drop a 5 volt one to under 3 volts and the 1 becomes a zero. Not such an issue with short cables but very much at lengths 5mtr's and up.

EM can ruin your day at any time and any length so shielding (or in other words higher quality cables) does matter!

I would advise to do a wiki on crosstalk on hdmi and educate yourself..
HDMI cables are known to be source number one for all kinds of problems.

Richard


Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post

Them they they need to invest in an education about how HDMI cables actually work. The signal is DIGITAL and NOT ANALOG so if you're getting a picture, the HDMI cable is doing it's job properly. The HDMI cable links two devices that sent 1's and 0's back and forth. So, if it's working, you get a picture, if it's not, you don't. It really is that simple. Anything that is like image shift or dropped frames or ANYTHING like that, it's either the source or the display device. It's NOT the cable.

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post #3496 of 4432 Old 05-13-2012, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumper View Post

Wow, that's a bold statement and you couldn't be more wrong.

HDMI cables run 1's and 0's yes but without a checksum and at very high bandwidth without a twist in the cable pairs like CAT 5 and up does.
A 1 or 0 can be easily deformed directly resulting in artifacts when you are lucky or loss of EDID when not so lucky.

Voltage drops over length drop a 5 volt one to under 3 volts and the 1 becomes a zero. Not such an issue with short cables but very much at lengths 5mtr's and up.

EM can ruin your day at any time and any length so shielding (or in other words higher quality cables) does matter!

I would advise to do a wiki on crosstalk on hdmi and educate yourself..
HDMI cables are known to be source number one for all kinds of problems.

Richard

Bumper don't believe everything you read on wiki.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #3497 of 4432 Old 05-13-2012, 11:52 PM
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Bumper don't believe everything you read on wiki.

True statement. Doesn't change my own experience and science though..
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post #3498 of 4432 Old 05-14-2012, 06:27 AM
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I will agree. I have had loose HDMI cables created a colored snow effect. I oringinally thought that HDMI was go or no go also, but that is not the case.
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post #3499 of 4432 Old 05-14-2012, 08:27 AM
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Yah, it's not completely GO or NO-GO, but it is closer to this than analog cables. Hence, the signal will drop out or be obviously deformed once the signal gets too corrupted. With an analog cable you can have almost any type of bad signal without a blank out. It depends on the device to how quickly it will refuse/drop the corrupted HDMI signal.


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post #3500 of 4432 Old 05-14-2012, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Eye View Post

One thing that was a little bit of a problem is that he said the problem is almost certainly the source. I told him these same devices and cables worked fine with other projectors at the same resolution and this is the second PT-AE7000U I have tried with the same issue. I also told him that I have seen a number of other people reporting the same issue here. He said that they have not been getting reports of this problem. So if you are seeing this issue please call Panasonic and get a case opened. It seems they are going to need to receive enough calls about this before they will consider that the projector might have an issue.

They should be calling me again within the next few days. I will report again when I have more information.

Hyper,

I have Monoprice cables too, but that's hardly a smoking gun on this forum. I'll call Panasonic this week and report my problems.
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post #3501 of 4432 Old 05-14-2012, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumper View Post

True statement. Doesn't change my own experience and science though..

For the most part you are right about HDMI, I just cringe when people say to go read wiki for facts as most of us know it can be completely false quite often.

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post #3502 of 4432 Old 05-14-2012, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

For the most part you are right about HDMI, I just cringe when people say to go read wiki for facts as most of us know it can be completely false quite often.

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post #3503 of 4432 Old 05-15-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumper View Post

Wow, that's a bold statement and you couldn't be more wrong.

HDMI cables run 1's and 0's yes but without a checksum and at very high bandwidth without a twist in the cable pairs like CAT 5 and up does.
A 1 or 0 can be easily deformed directly resulting in artifacts when you are lucky or loss of EDID when not so lucky.

Voltage drops over length drop a 5 volt one to under 3 volts and the 1 becomes a zero. Not such an issue with short cables but very much at lengths 5mtr's and up.

EM can ruin your day at any time and any length so shielding (or in other words higher quality cables) does matter!

I would advise to do a wiki on crosstalk on hdmi and educate yourself..
HDMI cables are known to be source number one for all kinds of problems.

Richard

While I do agree that HDMI cables can be the source of issues in an AV system, what makes you think they don't use twisted pairs? HDMI specs 4 twisted pairs for video transmission.
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post #3504 of 4432 Old 05-15-2012, 01:34 PM
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Panasonic called me today and they are asking for manufacturer, model, and firmware version on the DirecTV receiver as well as version information for my Xbox 360. I will have to get this info and provide it to them when I get home. They said this information will help them continue their research.

One interesting thing that has been noted in this thread is that some people who have experienced this problem have been able to resolve it by setting their devices to output at 50hz. I can't do that with the devices I am using but that might be something helpful to tell Panasonic. Unfortunately I am going through a middleman talking to support so I don't know exactly what information gets to the person that is researching the issue or what they might be thinking in relation to it.
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post #3505 of 4432 Old 05-16-2012, 09:17 AM
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Hi everyone,

I recently bought my Panny and I seem to have issues with crosstalk/ghosting on subtitles. I can choose to either focus on the picture or the subtitles, but I cant have both. I've seen a few other post here about this, but havent found an answer. Does anyone know what to do?
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post #3506 of 4432 Old 05-16-2012, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bw76 View Post

Hi everyone,

I recently bought my Panny and I seem to have issues with crosstalk/ghosting on subtitles. I can choose to either focus on the picture or the subtitles, but I cant have both. I've seen a few other post here about this, but havent found an answer. Does anyone know what to do?

What settings are you using?
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post #3507 of 4432 Old 05-17-2012, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bw76 View Post

Hi everyone,

I recently bought my Panny and I seem to have issues with crosstalk/ghosting on subtitles. I can choose to either focus on the picture or the subtitles, but I cant have both. I've seen a few other post here about this, but havent found an answer. Does anyone know what to do?

Try adjusting the 3D parralax control.

Wolfie
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post #3508 of 4432 Old 05-17-2012, 11:58 AM
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Since I've owned my AE7000 for about 2 months now, I figured it was time to post my experience so far.

This is my 6th projector. I bought my first, Infocus X1 DLP, in 2003. I upgraded to a Canon SX50 LCoS in 2005. I jumped into the 1080p world several years later with the AE2000. Since then I've had an Epson 8500UB, but sent it back due to muddy contrast and SDE from my viewing position. I replaced it with an AE4000, which was everything I could have ever have wanted, minus 3D.

I put over 2 thousand hours on each of those (except the Epson), and the only issue I ever had was a small dust blob on the Canon (odd, since it had a sealed light path).

It seems my luck is carrying on, so far, with the AE7000.

I have a dedicated black velvet lined room with a 106" High Power 2.4 gain screen.

The picture is definitely brighter than the AE4000, and has richer colors. It really looks like a giant plasma in my room.

I have the bulb set on ECO, and the picture on NORMAL. I set FI on 2 for all material, except for "live" events, animation, and 3D, where it is set to 3.

I have the Sony PS3 3D glasses, as the Panny ones are still on back-order. So far, the 3D has been spectacular. I have experienced no flickering, no ghosting, no crosstalk whatsoever. I have about 40 3D BDs and all look great. Except for the end credits of Transformers 3: There was just a "slight" hint of ghosting around the character's silhouettes for a few seconds.

I sit about 7'-8' away, while watching 3D. If there was crosstalk, I should be seeing it, combined with my high gain screen. While on the subject of screens, the High Power is the best 250.00 I've ever spent! It is a match made in heaven with this PJ, and 3D.

I have 2 minor issues.The first is with the FI on stronger modes. My previous AE4000 did not seem to have any artifacts. This one has subtle artifacts around moving objects at times. The other is that the PJ will re-synch several times at the start of some 3D BDs. Both of these may be due to my aggressive use of Digital Clarity, which is set on 5.

All and all, I'm very pleased with the AE7000. Add in the fact I've also upgraded my speakers, sub, and receiver since March...I'm in A/V nirvana!
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post #3509 of 4432 Old 05-17-2012, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adpayne View Post

Since I've owned my AE7000 for about 2 months now, I figured it was time to post my experience so far.

This is my 6th projector. I bought my first, Infocus X1 DLP, in 2003. I upgraded to a Canon SX50 LCoS in 2005. I jumped into the 1080p world several years later with the AE2000. Since then I've had an Epson 8500UB, but sent it back due to muddy contrast and SDE from my viewing position. I replaced it with an AE4000, which was everything I could have ever have wanted, minus 3D.

I put over 2 thousand hours on each of those (except the Epson), and the only issue I ever had was a small dust blob on the Canon (odd, since it had a sealed light path).

It seems my luck is carrying on, so far, with the AE7000.

I have a dedicated black velvet lined room with a 106" High Power 2.4 gain screen.

The picture is definitely brighter than the AE4000, and has richer colors. It really looks like a giant plasma in my room.

I have the bulb set on ECO, and the picture on NORMAL. I set FI on 2 for all material, except for "live" events, animation, and 3D, where it is set to 3.

I have the Sony PS3 3D glasses, as the Panny ones are still on back-order. So far, the 3D has been spectacular. I have experienced no flickering, no ghosting, no crosstalk whatsoever. I have about 40 3D BDs and all look great. Except for the end credits of Transformers 3: There was just a "slight" hint of ghosting around the character's silhouettes for a few seconds.

I sit about 7'-8' away, while watching 3D. If there was crosstalk, I should be seeing it, combined with my high gain screen. While on the subject of screens, the High Power is the best 250.00 I've ever spent! It is a match made in heaven with this PJ, and 3D.

I have 2 minor issues.The first is with the FI on stronger modes. My previous AE4000 did not seem to have any artifacts. This one has subtle artifacts around moving objects at times. The other is that the PJ will re-synch several times at the start of some 3D BDs. Both of these may be due to my aggressive use of Digital Clarity, which is set on 5.
All and all, I'm very pleased with the AE7000. Add in the fact I've also upgraded my speakers, sub, and receiver since March...I'm in A/V nirvana!

This 'High Power' screen you refer to, is this a brand name or just the qualification of the screen.

Yes, Detail Clarity should only be put on the default point of the menu. Higher and you'll have blown-out artifacts. Also, try bumping the Noise Reduction (NR) and MPEG NR up 1 or 2 spots. Worked for me.

Wolfie
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post #3510 of 4432 Old 05-17-2012, 02:13 PM
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What screens are you guys using with this projector? Anybody using the Da-Lite Pearlescent screens? This is what Da-Lite reps recommend for 3D active shutter viewing because of the 1.5 gain. Will this still look great for 2D content?

I'm thinking of going with the Da-Snap Cinemascope 54" x 126" Pearlescent screen and 54" x 126" Pro Imager Horizontal Masking System. Thoughts?

Chet
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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