OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 4432 Old 10-14-2011, 10:05 PM
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Are the IR codes from the AE2000 & AE4000 the same as the AE7000 (most commands)? Sometimes manufactures keep most of the IR codes the same for newer models.
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post #722 of 4432 Old 10-14-2011, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICvdo View Post

Are the IR codes from the AE2000 & AE4000 the same as the AE7000 (most commands)? Sometimes manufactures keep most of the IR codes the same for newer models.

Yep. I'm still using the Harmony remote profile for the AE2000. It worked on my AE4000 and is still working on my AE7000. I did have it learn a few of the new buttons like the one for the 3D menu, but all of the basic stuff (power, menu, d-pad) are the same still.
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post #723 of 4432 Old 10-14-2011, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post

I was in exactly your position last weekend. What do I get, do tons of reading, comparisons, search for reviews, any info I could get. Made me sick.

I called around to my local AV places and found one that had the 7000 just come in, my wife and I popped in to have a look and it sold me and her right then and there.

Some of the things that swayed me in the Panny direction over the 5010 were:

No FI on the Epson in 3d
No Dynamic Iris in 3d on the 5010
Panasonic glasses have a switch that allows for on the fly switching between 2d and 3d. (this one sold my wife as she is pretty 3d sensitive)

And lets not forget... Shipping right now!!!!

I ordered mine on Tuesday night and it should be here on Monday.

Good decision!! It's a fantastic projector.

As for the post you replied to, I have a 2.8 gain on my 115" Screen and I have my projector in cinema 1, eco mode and it is still super bright. There is a reduction in brightness with 3d, but I beleive any screen with a 1.0 gain or higher will definitely show the movie bright enough. My wife says when I switch it from eco to normal or cinema 1 to normal that it seems TOO bright. It's much brighter in eco mode than my 900 was in bright mode.
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post #724 of 4432 Old 10-14-2011, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Randito3 View Post

Good decision!! It's a fantastic projector.

As for the post you replied to, I have a 2.8 gain on my 115" Screen and I have my projector in cinema 1, eco mode and it is still super bright. There is a reduction in brightness with 3d, but I beleive any screen with a 1.0 gain or higher will definitely show the movie bright enough. My wife says when I switch it from eco to normal or cinema 1 to normal that it seems TOO bright. It's much brighter in eco mode than my 900 was in bright mode.

wow, a 2.8 gain screen? do you even get acceptable contrast?
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post #725 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randito3 View Post

Good decision!! It's a fantastic projector.

As for the post you replied to, I have a 2.8 gain on my 115" Screen and I have my projector in cinema 1, eco mode and it is still super bright. There is a reduction in brightness with 3d, but I beleive any screen with a 1.0 gain or higher will definitely show the movie bright enough. My wife says when I switch it from eco to normal or cinema 1 to normal that it seems TOO bright. It's much brighter in eco mode than my 900 was in bright mode.

Thanks for answering my questions guys. I am actually 70% leaning toward panasonic. The only thing that's holding me back right now is the Epson's excellent warranty and support.

I am going to mount my projector on the ceiling so the 2.8 gain will not benefit me as much as having it on a table. What about "hotspot" on the 2.8 gain?

BTW, what ceiling mount are you guys using? The panasonic is very big and heavy so I wonder if the regular universal mount will hold up over time. I really don't want this thing to drop on someone's head during the movies .
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post #726 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carey P View Post

Do have your projector mounted only 8ft from the screen? Because it seems to me it gives a range for "H" min to max based on the screen distance. Maybe I'm wrong, but the fact is that I have my projector at 18ft away and 10" higher than the top edge of the screen (ceiling mounted) and I cannot get the zoom memory to line up. With 16:9 centered, 2.4:1 cannot be moved high enough with V-Area shift to fill the screen after zooming. There remains a black space about 10" at the top which I'd have to use manual lens shift to correct. I'll leave that for the rare occasion I have a 2.4:1 3D movie. For 2D, I still use my Panamorph and V-Stretch since its brighter anyway.

Edit: The info I posted below is not correct. Sorry for the misinformation.

I do not have the (any) projector at the moment. I'm only at the planning stage. Anything I say below would be my best understanding of the manual.

Switching between 16:9<->2.4:1 should not involve lens shifting. Both aspect ratio should have the exact same center point (literally right in the center of the screen). The projector is just zooming large to fill the width of your 2.4:1 screen and zooming small to get the 16:9 image within the vertical limits of the screen. Remember you are always projecting a 16:9 image. The lower and upper black bars of the 2.4:1 image is just project beyond the edges of the screen. I believe if you do not have enough range to zoom in or out to get the image to perform the switch properly, you may have reached one of the limits of your zoom.

*I blame the forum if any of the above makes sense or is waaaaaaay off.
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post #727 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post

I was in exactly your position last weekend. What do I get, do tons of reading, comparisons, search for reviews, any info I could get. Made me sick.

I called around to my local AV places and found one that had the 7000 just come in, my wife and I popped in to have a look and it sold me and her right then and there.

Some of the things that swayed me in the Panny direction over the 5010 were:

No FI on the Epson in 3d
No Dynamic Iris in 3d on the 5010
Panasonic glasses have a switch that allows for on the fly switching between 2d and 3d. (this one sold my wife as she is pretty 3d sensitive)

And lets not forget... Shipping right now!!!!

I ordered mine on Tuesday night and it should be here on Monday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by happybob View Post

wow, a 2.8 gain screen? do you even get acceptable contrast?

I get excellent contrast. Movies look fantastic.
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post #728 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithtv View Post

Thanks for answering my questions guys. I am actually 70% leaning toward panasonic. The only thing that's holding me back right now is the Epson's excellent warranty and support.

I am going to mount my projector on the ceiling so the 2.8 gain will not benefit me as much as having it on a table. What about "hotspot" on the 2.8 gain?

BTW, what ceiling mount are you guys using? The panasonic is very big and heavy so I wonder if the regular universal mount will hold up over time. I really don't want this thing to drop on someone's head during the movies .

My projector is ceiling mounted. It is a Universal mount, the same one I used for my panny 900. As long as you have it secured well, you should not have any problems. I actually lowered my projector down some with an extension to put it just above center screen. i thought it might get in the way being that low, but it does not. I have no hotspots that I can notice at all and the picture is fantastic.
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post #729 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liaury View Post

...Switching between 16:9<->2.4:1 should not involve lens shifting. Both aspect ratio should have the exact same center point (literally right in the center of the screen). The projector is just zooming large to fill the width of your 2.4:1 screen and zooming small to get the 16:9 image within the vertical limits of the screen...

That would only be true if the pj lens were at the exact vertical center of the screen. Few people have that mounting option. If the lens is higher or lower than the vertical midpoint of the screen, you must use the manual lens shift to center it (joystick). Once you do that, the "center point" of the projected image, as far as zooming is concerned, is no longer at the "center" of the projected image. So as you zoom, the projected image will move either up or down (depending on whether the lens is above or below the physical midpoint of the screen). That is the reason for needing V-AREA POSITION to "electronically" shift the active image area within the projected image when switching between different aspect ratios.

Edit:
I'll try to explain it a little better. Imagine the projector at a fixed position and projecting on a wall with no manual lens shifting at this point in time. Draw an imaginary line from the center of the lens, parallel to the ceiling and side walls, and over to the wall. Now imagine a dot on the wall where that line hits. That dot is the "physical" center of the projector's optical zoom. When zooming in or out, the projected image will grow and shrink around that dot as its center.

Now imagine using the manual lens shift to reposition the image on the wall at a lower position. Neither the projector nor lens have physically moved; all that has really happened is that you've altered the angle of the light path through the lens. The lens' optical properties (as far as zooming is concerned) have not changed. The physical center point of zooming is still that imaginary dot on the wall, which is no longer at the center of the projected image. When zooming, the projected image will still grow and shrink around that imaginary dot, not around what you perceive to be the center of the projected image.

Sorry...I'm not very articulate when trying to explain these things, although they make sense in my head. Perhaps someone else could explain it better. Also, there is a good diagram here in the 4000 thread illustrating the concept.
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post #730 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happybob View Post

wow, a 2.8 gain screen? do you even get acceptable contrast?

Screen gain does not affect contrast ratio as both the numerator and denominator are increased by the same factor.

Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence

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post #731 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by serge039 View Post

Hello

Im new to all this hometheater stuff and today i recieved in the mail my pt-ae7000u. After reading everything about it, i wanted it to be my first projector and so far im loving it. I just have a few questions, first question: while im sitting and watching i see the light of the lens reflecting off the screen, like there is a place on the screen that has extra light and it obviously moves depending on where youre sitting, is there someway to get rid of that or is that normal? the distance of the projector from the screen is almost 14'. I made a custom wall unit and screen was painted. Second question, i can align the vertical or the image perfectly with the screen i made but the horizontal needs an inch or two, is it possible to strech the image a bit or that just isnt recommended, the frame that i made on the screen isnt installed yet so its still possible for me to make the piece of wood wider.

Other than that, I really love this projector, it was very easy to setup and the image looks amazing, obviously it needs more calibration.

One last thing, the joystick really sucks, its so hard to move it gently because if you put just enough force to make it move it goes completly off, but i was able to get it in around 10 minutes.

Thanks for all the help

Please someone help me
Thanks again
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post #732 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serge039 View Post

Please someone help me
Thanks again

PAINTED SCREEN is the problem
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post #733 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 07:41 AM
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http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...-painting.html

I bought a screen from ebay and it had the reflecting light issue as well, I think its called "Sparkling". Anyways I repainted the screen using the primer and matte paint types described in the linked article, and it pretty much eliminated all the sparkling issues.
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post #734 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesN View Post

That would only be true if the pj lens were at the exact vertical center of the screen. Few people have that mounting option.

Damn it. You had me at "hello".

I guess the projector position charts doesn't tell the whole story in regards to the projector's height above the top edge. Do the people that need to place their projectors near the minimum or max throw need to expect a more limited H range?
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post #735 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by widerscreen View Post

I guess no one could give a rats ass about my problem or I'm just being pissy due to I have to now wait for about two weeks before i get a replacement.

I guess I'm too late to help Widerscreen with his lamp-flicker issue, but for everyone out there: a flickering image is almost guaranteed to happen now and again with a projector, given how a projector lamp works. I once returned a projector because of a flicker, and I caused myself all sorts of grief (the returned unit was much better than the replacement I received!). Here's a statement about lamp flicker from Infocus expert Bob Williams:

To understand lamp flicker, you need to know a little about how mercury arc lamps work. First of all, there is no filament (a thin, typically tungsten wire) inside of an arc lamp. Instead, there are two tungsten electrodes spaced a small distance apart (called the arc gap) in a mercury vapor. When the lamp strikes, this gap is bridged by a plasma arc. This plasma arc, running at over 7000 degrees Celsius, is the light source of the projection system. Over time, the plasma arc slowly burns away the electrodes, causing the gap to get larger and the projector to get dimmer (the smaller the arc the better the lamp reflector collects the light). This burning also causes the electrodes to become smooth and this smoothness leads to a tendency for the arc to move around, jumping from spot to spot as it tries to find its least energy point. Plasma arcs are lazy and always hunt for the smallest distance between the electrodes to conserve energy. As the electrodes wear back, there can exist situations where there are two such places on the electrodes. The jumping back and forth between these two places is known as arc-jump, and is the predominant form of lamp flicker that will be seen in our products....

If you observe lamp flicker, there are a number of things you can do.
1) Wait. Once the electrodes burn back a little more the lamp flicker should go away.
2) Go to high power mode. Changing the power setting of the projector will usually cause the arc to stabilize because the arc will take a slightly different shape due to the mercury convection changes around the arc. If you leave the projector at this power setting for a number of hours, the electrodes will be reshaped slightly and the lowest energy point will move. Once it moves, then you can return to low power and the flicker will be gone.
3) Magnetic fields and gravity also affect the arc, so moving the projector, turning it upside down, or even putting a magnet against it can stabilize the arc in a different location. Again, leaving it in this way for a while will allow you to use it while the electrodes reshape themselves.


The key here is that it takes "a number of hours" to get the lamp to settle down again; you can't switch to high-power mode for 10 minutes and then switch back expecting the flicker to be gone. Lamp flicker is harmless, and it goes away after a time, whether you switch to high mode or not. And over the course of a lamp's life I've found that it happens for a while every couple hundred hours or so.

I will never again return a projector because of lamp flicker!
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post #736 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 11:40 AM
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OK it looks like my "Ancient" Onkyo TX-SR805 aint going to hack it for HDMI audio from a 3D source to the 7000, so being a Onkyo fan (as much as I am a Panasonic fan) I need to find something that WILL work between this projector and my source material.
I know they have Onkyo owners threads, but I figure I would ask here:

If you are using an Onkyo receiver, what model are you using?

I am considering a TX-NR709, it is a bit less ballsy that my SR805, but it does do HDMI 1.4 & 3D. and it is for under $600.
The 809 looks nice but my budget is shot.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated
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post #737 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WizardOfZo View Post

OK it looks like my "Ancient" Onkyo TX-SR805 aint going to hack it for HDMI audio from a 3D source to the 7000, so being a Onkyo fan (as much as I am a Panasonic fan) I need to find something that WILL work between this projector and my source material.
I know they have Onkyo owners threads, but I figure I would ask here:

If you are using an Onkyo receiver, what model are you using?

I am considering a TX-NR709, it is a bit less ballsy that my SR805, but it does do HDMI 1.4 & 3D. and it is for under $600.
The 809 looks nice but my budget is shot.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

In exactly the same boat - no 3d, and my 3 HDMI inputs are no longer cutting it. It's a shame, as I'm otherwise really happy with my 805...

There are a ton of threads in the receivers section with people asking this exact question: Where to go from the 805 - and really no good answers.

Back on topic, how quick is the 7000 when switching signal modes on the same input? My old Z5 takes 'forever' (well, a couple seconds) and it's super annoying. (Though I guess this could also be due to the 805 being slow too)
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post #738 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WizardOfZo View Post

OK it looks like my "Ancient" Onkyo TX-SR805 aint going to hack it for HDMI audio from a 3D source to the 7000, so being a Onkyo fan (as much as I am a Panasonic fan) I need to find something that WILL work between this projector and my source material.
I know they have Onkyo owners threads, but I figure I would ask here:

If you are using an Onkyo receiver, what model are you using?

I am considering a TX-NR709, it is a bit less ballsy that my SR805, but it does do HDMI 1.4 & 3D. and it is for under $600.
The 809 looks nice but my budget is shot.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

Silly question... couldn't you split the audio/video with a player that has dual HDMI outputs like the Oppo BD-93? The main one for video directly to the 7000 and the secondary for audio only to the Onkyo.
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post #739 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 12:13 PM
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If someone want to buy a use panny (in Canada), I have a 7000 to sell. (Only use for a review). Will post in AVS classifieds soon... Just send me a PM.
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post #740 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Killroy View Post

Silly question... couldn't you split the audio/video with a player that has dual HDMI outputs like the Oppo BD-93? The main one for video directly to the 7000 and the secondary for audio only to the Onkyo.

I will have at least 4 HDMI devices that need to go to this projector, 3 of them can do 3D: PCH-C200, PS3 and a HTPC and none of them have a 2nd HDMI out. I tried the Monoprice 4x2 1.4 rated switch and it screws up the audio to the receiver when both inputs go to both outputs.
I also tried the switch with HDMI to 7.1 audio converter into the Onkyo and that is not reliable. So it looks like I need something more modern for a receiver.
Not trying to side track this thread, just trying to make a functional package, so Onkyo or not, what other switching receivers are working full audio quality with this projector and 3D?
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post #741 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RickAVManiac View Post

If someone want to buy a use panny (in Canada), I have a 7000 to sell. (Only use for a review). Will post in AVS classifieds soon... Just send me a PM.

Not sure if you're the listing on FleaBay, but I can buy one new with free shipping from several AVS Forum sponsors for significantly less than that listing... just saying is all...
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post #742 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithtv View Post

Thanks for answering my questions guys. I am actually 70% leaning toward panasonic. The only thing that's holding me back right now is the Epson's excellent warranty and support.

I am going to mount my projector on the ceiling so the 2.8 gain will not benefit me as much as having it on a table. What about "hotspot" on the 2.8 gain?

BTW, what ceiling mount are you guys using? The panasonic is very big and heavy so I wonder if the regular universal mount will hold up over time. I really don't want this thing to drop on someone's head during the movies .

Warranty was one real sticking point for me too, then I talked to someone at HD.ca

We were talking about the Panny, and I brought up the new Epson units, and he told me they do not carry Epson any more (a fact I have found from 3 or four places here in canada now)

I inquired why? He told me that after the 1080 model that things went really downhill build quality wise. They just do not make them like they used to, and he got so many complaints from subsequent models, that they stopped carrying Epson entirely.

I brought up their excellent warranty, and he told me point black, "Why do you think they have such a stellar replacement plan? Because you will likely need it"

This gave me a moment for pause.

Now this guy could be talking out his ass, but it sounded sincere. But this statement, coupled with the few features the Panny has that the Epson didn't swayed my decision.

Marantz AV8801 / Rotel 2x RMB-1095 / RMB-1090 / Yamaha P7000S / Velodyne SMS-1 / DTech BP2000TL / DTech C/L/R 3000 / 4x - DTech BPVX/P Surrounds / DTech SM55 Heights / DTech SM65 Wides / SVS PB13 Ultra / 2x Buttkicker LFE / PTAE-8000U / Globalcache, iRule & Insteon.

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post #743 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WizardOfZo View Post

OK it looks like my "Ancient" Onkyo TX-SR805 aint going to hack it for HDMI audio from a 3D source to the 7000, so being a Onkyo fan (as much as I am a Panasonic fan) I need to find something that WILL work between this projector and my source material.
I know they have Onkyo owners threads, but I figure I would ask here:

If you are using an Onkyo receiver, what model are you using?

I am considering a TX-NR709, it is a bit less ballsy that my SR805, but it does do HDMI 1.4 & 3D. and it is for under $600.
The 809 looks nice but my budget is shot.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

Keep what you have and let Panasonic Fix your problem.
Buy a Panasonic DMP-BDT310
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post #744 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Keep what you have and let Panasonic Fix your problem.
Buy a Panasonic DMP-BDT310

I have one, but it is on the upstairs 3D Panny Plasma
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post #745 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:08 PM
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what happen if u watch Tron Legacy 3D on AE7000 + 2:35:1 screen. Because this disc will regularly shifts between aspect ratios 2.35:1/1.78:1 and 2D/3D content.

How do the lens memory work for this movie since you can't zoom in or out during the 3D mode.

I'm confused. Please help

Thx and sorry for my English
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post #746 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Markoto View Post

what happen if u watch Tron Legacy 3D on AE7000 + 2:35:1 screen. Because this disc will regularly shifts between aspect ratios 2.35:1/1.78:1 and 2D/3D content.

How do the lens memory work for this movie since you can't zoom in or out during the 3D mode.

I'm confused. Please help

Thx and sorry for my English

IIRC, Tron was framed so that you don't lose important info if you just keep it at 2.35:1 in the open IMAX 3D scenes.
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post #747 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:19 PM
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Warranty was one real sticking point for me too, then I talked to someone at HD.ca

We were talking about the Panny, and I brought up the new Epson units, and he told me they do not carry Epson any more (a fact I have found from 3 or four places here in canada now)

I inquired why? He told me that after the 1080 model that things went really downhill build quality wise. They just do not make them like they used to, and he got so many complaints from subsequent models, that they stopped carrying Epson entirely.

I brought up their excellent warranty, and he told me point black, "Why do you think they have such a stellar replacement plan? Because you will likely need it"

This gave me a moment for pause.

Now this guy could be talking out his ass, but it sounded sincere. But this statement, coupled with the few features the Panny has that the Epson didn't swayed my decision.

Thanks for the info. Here is a perfect post for this
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1364698
but Epson ended up took really good care of him by upgrading him to the next model.
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post #748 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:23 PM
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OK, so I am pretty set on the panny 7000 now. One more questions. I don't have a 3D blu-ray player and I was looking at the Oppo 93. But if I go with the panny then no more Oppo since I need money for the 3D glasses as well. Any Panny 7000 owner here use either Samsung 6800 or Panny 310 blu-ray player? Please give me some feed back on these two blu-ray players. I know this is not a blu-ray forum but I need some thing that specifically work with the panny 7000. Thank guys.
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post #749 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Killroy View Post

IIRC, Tron was framed so that you don't lose important info if you just keep it at 2.35:1 in the open IMAX 3D scenes.

Thanks for answering my questions Killroy.
I only have two 3D movies[RE:A, Tangled], and i just watch them on my AE7000. They look amazing. [I love Tangled, stunning looking through a window 3D depth]. Tron will be my third 3D Bluray purchase.
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post #750 of 4432 Old 10-15-2011, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markoto View Post

what happen if u watch Tron Legacy 3D on AE7000 + 2:35:1 screen. Because this disc will regularly shifts between aspect ratios 2.35:1/1.78:1 and 2D/3D content.

How do the lens memory work for this movie since you can't zoom in or out during the 3D mode.

I'm confused. Please help

Thx and sorry for my English

Yeah, those shifting aspect ratio films like Tron Legacy, The Dark Knight and Revenge of the Fallen kind of suck for us zoomers on 2.35:1 screens.
What I personally do is mask the bottom of the image that the projector is giving off (using the masking option in the projector menu). When the movie is in typical letterbox form, of course, the masking does nothing because that was dark space anyway. But when the IMAX scenes open up, the masking keeps the image black that would be spilling off the bottom of my screen. I lose whatever image would have been there but its better for me than the distraction of the image spilling off or zooming back and forth which takes me out of the movie too.
So it just kind of depends how you want to handle those few shifting AR movies.
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