Was told to start an OWNERS thread, so here it is. I've only put a few hours on it so far, but I'll cut and paste my first impressions from another thread:
Have had it on for about an hour now and I'm impressed!
3D is the best I have ever seen! There is absolutely NO CROSSTALK or GHOSTING visible. Even one of the best 3D titles I own (Despicable Me) had some ghosting visible on my other Panny plasmas (especially the title), not here. Of course poorly produced 3D will still look like crap, but the good ones will REALLY look great on this projector.
In my almost completely dark "man cave", I'm using the 'cinema 1' setting, eco lamp mode, and 'light' for the 3D glasses setting. I don't think that most people will find the 'normal' or 'dark' mode to be very pleasing, at least I don't.
Set up was relatively easy, especially if you've already owned a few Panasonics like I have (the 900 and 2000). I HATE the joystick lens shift adjustment, but it should only have to be set once, and as long as you don't change the positioning of the projector, you shouldn't need to touch it again. So far, everything else that's setup related has been a joy.
Those worried about the built in 3D emitter's range will be happy to hear that (at least with my setup: approx. 17' throw to a 120" Wilsonart Designer White screen) the 3D effect is not lost even when sitting 15' back from the screen. I have the built in emitter set to 'strong' and the lens shift cover off.
Of course these are only my very first impressions, so I'll have to really give it a workout later tonight. Will check out a lot more 3D (both Blu Ray and cable) as well as 2D.
BTW, mine was delivered by FED EXP (overnight service). It came from Memphis, TN.
I've got an 805 and am considering dumping it too. It's been great, but with all the updates to receivers over the past several years, it's seriously falling behind the times. This is relevant in this thread because the 805 doesn't support 3D HDMI for the 7000.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesN /forum/post/21095255
I watched a little bit of John Carpenter's The Thing the other night with Frame Creation Mode set to 3. Motion was super-smooth but everything had an odd, soap-opera look and feel to it. Very un-film-like. It gave me a strange dispossessed feeling -- like I was watching a rehearsal of the film and not the film itself. Hard to explain, but it just felt...wrong.
is this the lowest setting on the 7000? the 2011 JVC's are the same way for me, the effect is too strong for me to consider using it. The Sony HW30 is much more subtle, it's just right for me and use it all the time in 2D and 3D.
are you fellow that has the Monster Vision 3D's on order? I've used them with JVC and Sony, I can tune out 99% of any visible ghosting on the Sony, but not the slower panel JVC. They should work great with the Panasonic once they are tuned correctly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k /forum/post/21095697
is this the lowest setting on the 7000? the 2011 JVC's are the same way for me, the effect is too strong for me to consider using it. The Sony HW30 is much more subtle, it's just right for me and use it all the time in 2D and 3D.
are you fellow that has the Monster Vision 3D's on order? I've used them with JVC and Sony, I can tune out 99% of any visible ghosting on the Sony, but not the slower panel JVC. They should work great with the Panasonic once they are tuned correctly.
Frame Creation Mode 3 is the highest (most aggressive) setting; there are two other lower settings. I was just playing around with it to see what it looked like. It might do better with animation -- something less realistic.
And yes I am the one who ordered the MV glasses -- they should be here tomorrow. I'm just interested in seeing if they can remove the 1% of the cases where I do notice ghosting. If not, it's not a deal breaker for me because the other 99% of the time the ghosting is pretty much imperceptible to me unless I actively go looking for it.
I'm not sure I'd want to protect a $3k projector with a $1 surge protector from a hardware store.
I have a whole-house surge suppressor in my breaker box but also protect my AV equipment with a Panamax power conditioner/UPS with enough battery power to get the pj fan through its cool-down cycle during a power interruption. If this setup saves me from frying a single bulb for the 7000 it will pay for itself.
If it's snake oil, so be it. It buys me a bit of peace of mind.
My understanding is that both the Panny and the Sony have an auto iris that IS available in 3D mode. The auto iris for the new Epson projectors is NOT available in 3D mode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesN /forum/post/21095746
Frame Creation Mode 3 is the highest (most aggressive) setting; there are two other lower settings. I was just playing around with it to see what it looked like. It might do better with animation -- something less realistic.
And yes I am the one who ordered the MV glasses -- they should be here tomorrow. I'm just interested in seeing if they can remove the 1% of the cases where I do notice ghosting. If not, it's not a deal breaker for me because the other 99% of the time the ghosting is pretty much imperceptible to me unless I actively go looking for it.
Is the highest mode of frame creation available in 3d? I recall reading something about FI being available in 3d but perhaps not the highest mode, and something about it turning off when there is a lot of motion to avoid potentially introducing artifacts. I read a lot of reviews about the new batch of projectors though, and this might not have been about the Panny.
Could you test the Panny to see if FC3 is available in 3d and how it looks with lots of fast movement (chase scenes etc)? I'm a big fan of the super smooth soap opera look and always have it set on maximum on my Sony, but the 2010 models don't allow it on 3d and the 24fps jitter is annoying to me when I watch a 3d movie. It's all the more obvious because I've gotten so used to the more lifelike movement with FI in 2d that the 24fps jitter in 3d is extremely distracting.
I'm also considering the HMZ-T1 but the lack of FI on that unit is a factor. I know the Panny isn't perfect, but if I can tune out most or hopefully all the ghosting AND use maximum FI on 3d, that could be the clincher. Pity their DI implementation hasn't reached Sony standards yet (based on viewer/calibrator comparisons to the HW30).
When I bought my Onkyo TX-SR702 in 2004, I thought it would do everything I needed it to, then came HDMI, so in 2008 I bought the TX-SR805 assuming I was good for a long time. Then came 3D & HDMI 1.4a
I guess I would be a fool to think the TX-NR709, that will arrive on Monday, will be the end all of my A/V problems. This goes for the 7000 also.
I will eBay my stack of old Onkyo's and my Sony CRT projectors and all the gear that made the old setup work. if I am lucky, the sales will balance out and I will get the new Onkyo for free.
It looks like I am on a 4 year replacement cycle, I wonder what will be the cool toys in 2015? Smellavision?
Well finally broke down and ordered me one this afternoon from VA. Funny thing is 3D is really farther from my mind at the moment.. But in a few months I may want it so upgrading now why not..
Quote:
Originally Posted by aboogaard /forum/post/21095029
Had mine for almost two weeks. Bright. I can watch it in the daytime with just my picture window blind pulled. Color is WOW accurate and bright. Clarity is very good. But one thing I have noticed that I haven't heard from anyone is how smooth the motion is. Jutter is almost totally a thing of the past. And that is with no frame creation. That was something I was not expecting.
There is a scene towards the beginning of I Robot where the camera moves down from a skyline view to a street view. On my plasma and on the PT-AE4000U, that would show quite a bit of jutter in horizontal object lines. It is almost totally smooth on the 7000U.
I liked my 4000U, but there were a few things that I didn't like. Live video off of my satellite didn't look quite right. And on football games, when the camera angle was downward, showing only the field, it was rather dark. Not so with the 7000U. In fact, all my issues with the 4000U were cleared up with the 7000U. I can't imagine those 12k and up projectors looking any better than this one does. And certainly not 10 thousand dollars better.
Almost TOO bright. I have my brightness control to almost the bottom end and it's still bright without bleeding white. As far as the motion goes, it's natural look is almost weird, strickly because we are so used to motion jutter and blurr on older projectors that the smooth motion flow of the 7000 is somewhat eerie. I watched FOX's 'Terra Nova' (which to me is the best technically produced network show on the planet) last night and I thought I was actually back 50 million years in the past myself. But we'll get used to it quickly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesN /forum/post/21095869
I'm not sure I'd want to protect a $3k projector with a $1 surge protector from a hardware store.
I have a whole-house surge suppressor in my breaker box but also protect my AV equipment with a Panamax power conditioner/UPS with enough battery power to get the pj fan through its cool-down cycle during a power interruption. If this setup saves me from frying a single bulb for the 7000 it will pay for itself.
If it's snake oil, so be it. It buys me a bit of peace of mind.
He asked about power conditioners. Not back up power. There's a difference. Just about all of them use self sacrificing MOV's with a failsafe fuse backup. The more MOV's the more of a surge it can take. Simple as that.
A back up power source is a smart move to protect the bulb. I would make sure it's a better one that does Sine based waveform generation over stepped generation. (Cheap computer power backups use stepped)
Power conditioners are worthless because the transformer coils, inductor chokes, voltage regulators, and caps even out any incoming line noise when converting to DC. It's the power supply inside the projector that's the limiting factor, and there's not much you can do about that.
For example, you could have a super cheapo 100W DC transformer, and the load transients on the output leg look horrible > 10%. (Even with a lab grade power input supply)
But the a rated 100W unit that cost three times as much as variances
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speqtre /forum/post/21095577
I've got an 805 and am considering dumping it too. It's been great, but with all the updates to receivers over the past several years, it's seriously falling behind the times. This is relevant in this thread because the 805 doesn't support 3D HDMI for the 7000.
I was at a shop just outside Toronto and tested this earlier. If you're playing 3D content you have to stop it first then change this setting. Modes 1, 2 and 3 all work. But again, are only accessible BEFORE playing 3D content.
Now this is strictly personal preference.
On 2D content, this feature drives me insane. Especially movie content. I love the almost flickering film look lol.
In 3D mode (as another user pointed out) it looks TOO real lol. But after 5 minutes I forgot I was watching a movie. It was nothing short of incredible on an 80" screen in the store .. Can't wait to get a unit home to my 106" screen!
Yes. Frame Creation Mode 3 is best for 3D, not so good for 2D except for sports maybe. Anything less than FC Mode 3 in 3D causes jitter on fast moving objects for me - kinda like stop motion flicker on any fast portion in the scene. Not sure how you can watch 3D that way at all.
FC Mode 3 with 3D does not produce the same home-video/soap opera look as it does in 2D for whatever reason. For 2D I use FC Mode 1 at most and the pictures are quite smooth enough and 95% film-like.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbuddha /forum/post/21096708
If you're playing 3D content you have to stop it first then change this setting. Modes 1, 2 and 3 all work. But again, are only accessible BEFORE playing 3D content.
Not true. You only need to hit the Picture Adjust button so the setting bar shows up at the bottom while you're watching 3D. You can change to any Frame Creation mode on the fly.
I suppose if you want to limit yourself to using the BluRay player on your projector that is fine. But for us who use our reciever to switch multiple sources to the projector that is not a good option. Also having a HTPC I would never use a stand alone again, mater a fact I don't even have a stand alone DVD or BluRay now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie /forum/post/21096237
Almost TOO bright. I have my brightness control to almost the bottom end and it's still bright without bleeding white. As far as the motion goes, it's natural look is almost weird, strickly because we are so used to motion jutter and blurr on older projectors that the smooth motion flow of the 7000 is somewhat eerie. I watched FOX's 'Terra Nova' (which to me is the best technically produced network show on the planet) last night and I thought I was actually back 50 million years in the past myself. But we'll get used to it quickly.
what kind of screen and projector settings are you using to make it "too bright"? do you have a high gain screen? are you saying it's too bright in "cinema 1" setting in both 2D and 3D, or are you using the "normal" setting? I think the concern about the panasonic is that its best color setting, "cinema 1" only puts out around 550-560 lumens, and probably only in the 400-450 range in econo mode, which tend to be less than the equivalent best color modes on competing projectors that tend to put out over 800 lumens. i have no doubt that you can make the thing too bright by going to those modes that put out 1000-2000 lumens, but then you are sacrificing the color and contrast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder /forum/post/21096870
I suppose if you want to limit yourself to using the BluRay player on your projector that is fine. But for us who use our reciever to switch multiple sources to the projector that is not a good option. Also having a HTPC I would never use a stand alone again, mater a fact I don't even have a stand alone DVD or BluRay now.
About a year ago when I redid the wiring in my HT I was already thinking ahead towards 3D. I knew my AVR wouldn't pass a frame-packed signal, so I ended up running two in-wall HDMI cables from the AV rack to the projector. I have one HDMI output from my OPPO BD player running straight to the 7000's HDMI1 input for BD video and the OPPO's other HDMI output to my AVR for HD BD audio.
Then I have the main HDMI video out from my AVR running to the 7000's HDMI2 input using the second in-wall HDMI cable. I use this for all other (non-BD) video sources. I have my Harmony One programmed to select HDMI1 for the BD player and HDMI2 for everything else.
Not true. You only need to hit the Picture Adjust button so the setting bar shows up at the bottom while you're watching 3D. You can change to any Frame Creation mode on the fly.
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