OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 53 - AVS Forum
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post #1561 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 03:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.A.M. View Post

This time, Art's opinion is against the grain of many other reviews..

I saw the HD82/8200 demoed and I was not happy with black levels, the HD87 was "ok", but still not happy (I used to own a CRT).


My final 2 candidates was the Panny 5000/7000 or new JVC X30.
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post #1562 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WizardOfZo View Post

If anyone wants to try some Grey screen, I am using this for rear projection and it works fine in 3D
http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.p...=165&cat_id=50

Any comment on how the Panny would do with my "old" 92" Da-Lite Cinema Vision 1.3 gain ISF screen? Will it be too bright and reflective? (It was bought for the Barco)??

Thanks
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post #1563 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post

3D Virtual Grey
Designed specifically for passive stereoscopic 3D front projection systems, 3D Virtual Grey is a flexible projection surface that retains 99 percent of polarized light.

The problem may be that you are using an active shutter projector and not a projector that is a passive 3D system. Your screen is designed for use with passive 3D projection and polarized eyeglasses.

That is certainly possible, but I can't figure out why it would matter, technically. I've seen some non-polarized projections on a similar screen earlier (none with shutter glasses, though), and it all looked well.

I suppose I could reuse the frame and just order the screen... Recommendations for 1.5-2.0 screen material from ebay seller or store that ships to Europe are welcome...
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post #1564 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

I saw the HD82/8200 demoed and I was not happy with black levels, the HD87 was "ok", but still not happy (I used to own a CRT).


My final 2 candidates was the Panny 5000/7000 or new JVC X30.

The HD87 will clearly have better black levels than the Panny 7000. Just as the 8300 has better black levels, if ever so slight. You can see this in the contrast measurements taken by certain reviewers. It directly correlates to what you'll see on the screen,that's if your main concern is contrast/black levels.

The Epson 5010, JVC x30/rs45, Sony HW30 or the higher end Sony, such as the Sony vpl-HW95es are your only real choices at the moment if black levels are your sweet spot.
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post #1565 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

The HD87 will clearly have better black levels than the Panny 7000. Just as the 8300 has better black levels, if ever so slight. You can see this in the contrast measurements taken by certain reviewers. It directly correlates to what you'll see on the screen,that's if your main concern is contrast/black levels.

The Epson 5010, JVC x30/rs45, Sony HW30 or the higher end Sony, such as the Sony vpl-HW95es are your only real choices at the moment if black levels are your sweet spot.


Dang... as said, mightty confusion first reading about the panny on projectorcentral and avforums.co.uk having better black levels than the DLPs, now the reverse comes up on projectorreviews.com

Black levels are my main concern, not just because I used to own a CRT, but also because of the fact that I think all new digitals are brigth and sharp enough :-D


Epson and Mits are reclusive here, so it seems I have to go for the JVC.


How will the fact that I have 1.3 gain white screen affect black levels of any of these???
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post #1566 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

Dang... as said, mightty confusion first reading about the panny on projectorcentral and avforums.co.uk having better black levels than the DLPs, now the reverse comes up on projectorreviews.com

Did you read the July Review or the November Review - HERE
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post #1567 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post


How will the fact that I have 1.3 gain white screen affect black levels of any of these???

Your screen is about average. I don't see it being a factor. You could always go with a gray screen. It will mute the colors a bit. If all possible, I would stick with the white screen, unless your walls are white.
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post #1568 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Did you read the July Review or the November Review - HERE

I read the one published last week
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post #1569 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

Your screen is about average. I don't see it being a factor. You could always go with a gray screen. It will mute the colors a bit. If all possible, I would stick with the white screen, unless your walls are white.

My walls are white, but have a lot of dark furniture. I turn off all lights and use heavy drapes to block out ambient light from outside and I only watch movies at night/dark.

No batcave.


I really like my screen as it is ISF certified and should have really good polarization for 3D...
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post #1570 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrevs View Post

I purchased the pt-ae7000u and would like some suggestions on screen material. I'm looking just for the material to build my own screen that will produce the best results with the new projector. The screen I have is several years old and I don't recall what kind it is, but it looks grainy. My theater room is lighting controlled and consists of mainly dark colors. And feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.

My first screen was made of blackout cloth obtained from a local fabric store. It worked fine, but I wanted to go a little larger, so I tried "Wilsonart Designer White" (a counter top material that comes in a large roll.) I was able to get a 120" 16x9 diagonal size. I've been very happy with this.

Unless you're mounting the material directly to a wall, you'll need to use a backing material so that it won't sag or warp. I glued it to peg board, made a frame out of 1" square aluminum tubing braced with wooden 1 x 3's and framed it in black wooden molding. It's hung from the floor joists, and can be swung upwards, hooked almost flush with the ceiling, so it's out of the way when not in use.

I considered a pull down screen as well, but it was a lot cheaper to make my own.
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post #1571 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pterodactyl View Post

That is certainly possible, but I can't figure out why it would matter, technically.

There's a good thread on 3D screen here :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1300238

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pterodactyl View Post

I've seen some non-polarized projections on a similar screen earlier (none with shutter glasses, though), and it all looked well.

If it was not passive or shutter glasses, what was it?
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post #1572 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

I read the one published last week

I didn't see any negative Black comments
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post #1573 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I didn't see any negative Black comments

I notice the part about the HD8300 having better black levels
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post #1574 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bevofrancis View Post

It's not in 3D yet. They are suppose to add a patch later for it on PC. It was advertised as 3D but it's not ready. How do your guys game look in regular
2D? I'm wanting to go to a projector but people keep saying to get a cheap DLP for gaming. Is there any input lag?

I am about as hardcore as it gets in terms of gamers, and I can honestly say I am not seeing any lag at all.

I just finished up MW3 on Veteran difficulty, and if there was going to be any noticeable lag, it would have played into that experience.

With reflexes needing to be twitchy at best, any little hiccup would be readily apparent, and there was not any.

I had a Sanyo z3000 previous to the Panny 7000 and the quality bump in 2d gaming is HUGE. As so many games these days are dark, the Panny does a fantastic job rendering the deep blacks and subtle contrast in things like Dead Space and Arkham City.

Certain games are too dark for 3d, but work brilliantly in 2d.

Marantz AV8801 / Rotel 2x RMB-1095 / RMB-1090 / Yamaha P7000S / Velodyne SMS-1 / DTech BP2000TL / DTech C/L/R 3000 / 4x - DTech BPVX/P Surrounds / DTech SM55 Heights / DTech SM65 Wides / SVS PB13 Ultra / 2x Buttkicker LFE / PTAE-8000U / Globalcache, iRule & Insteon.

Coffin Family Theater Build
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post #1575 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

Any comment on how the Panny would do with my "old" 92" Da-Lite Cinema Vision 1.3 gain ISF screen? Will it be too bright and reflective? (It was bought for the Barco)??

Thanks

I have a 120" Cinema Vision 1.3 fixed screen and love it. On normal pre calibration I actually found it too bright. A pure white background actually hurt my eyes.

With the contrast and brightness adjusted it really pops, even in 3d.

Sure it is darker, but it is still very bright

Marantz AV8801 / Rotel 2x RMB-1095 / RMB-1090 / Yamaha P7000S / Velodyne SMS-1 / DTech BP2000TL / DTech C/L/R 3000 / 4x - DTech BPVX/P Surrounds / DTech SM55 Heights / DTech SM65 Wides / SVS PB13 Ultra / 2x Buttkicker LFE / PTAE-8000U / Globalcache, iRule & Insteon.

Coffin Family Theater Build
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post #1576 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 03:40 PM
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Are you guys talking about the same review that I'm reading?

"Extremely good black level performance - a true "ultra-high contrast" projector"

This is from projectorreviews, doesn't seem that negative to me.
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post #1577 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

I notice the part about the HD8300 having better black levels

He said:
Quote:


To summarize, the HD8300 will appeal more to the purist, for the rich colors, and image depth, slightly better blacks, wanting the best possible picture quality in 2D.

He also said that the HD8300 costs ~$1000 more.

When Art says "slightly better", he means that you would only be able to detect the difference in a direct A/B comparison.

No Digital PJ has the black levels of a CRT PJ, since they can't turn the lamp off.

@ JoeAbul -- That's what I saw on his first page (= among the best of the best). The quoted comment, above, was from his "Competitors" page (which is unfinished and needs further editing).

- Claus {non-Santa model}
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post #1578 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrele View Post

My first screen was made of blackout cloth obtained from a local fabric store. It worked fine, but I wanted to go a little larger, so I tried "Wilsonart Designer White" (a counter top material that comes in a large roll.) I was able to get a 120" 16x9 diagonal size. I've been very happy with this.

Unless you're mounting the material directly to a wall, you'll need to use a backing material so that it won't sag or warp. I glued it to peg board, made a frame out of 1" square aluminum tubing braced with wooden 1 x 3's and framed it in black wooden molding. It's hung from the floor joists, and can be swung upwards, hooked almost flush with the ceiling, so it's out of the way when not in use.

I considered a pull down screen as well, but it was a lot cheaper to make my own.

I made my screen 5 years ago. 122" 16x9, but I'm planing to make a new one that's 2.35:1. Gluing to a peg board is an interesting idea. What did you use for adhesive?
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post #1579 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofn42 View Post

I am about as hardcore as it gets in terms of gamers, and I can honestly say I am not seeing any lag at all.

I just finished up MW3 on Veteran difficulty, and if there was going to be any noticeable lag, it would have played into that experience.

With reflexes needing to be twitchy at best, any little hiccup would be readily apparent, and there was not any.

I had a Sanyo z3000 previous to the Panny 7000 and the quality bump in 2d gaming is HUGE. As so many games these days are dark, the Panny does a fantastic job rendering the deep blacks and subtle contrast in things like Dead Space and Arkham City.

Certain games are too dark for 3d, but work brilliantly in 2d.

There's definitely lag. I send the output of my HTPC to both the 7000 and a small Samsung LCD monitor both via HDMI. When you move the mouse the reaction is instant on the Samsung monitor, but you can see a lag on the 7000. It's not huge but it's there.

I connected my Wii to the 7000 and tried playing tennis (v.s. the Wii) which I'm very good at. I lost every game because of the lag. I'm used to the timing of a fast monitor and so the lag killed me.

Setting the 7000 to game mode doesn't make a difference. When you select game mode the 7000 should drop all video processing to reduce the lag to it's absolute minimum, but the panny engineers didn't design it this way. It's my one complaint about the 7000.

Others have made formal measurements of the lag. It's not insignificant.
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post #1580 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 04:57 PM
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My nephew was over today playing Rock Band 3 on expert and was shredding it big time. I think some of the peoples lag has to do withing system settings in their receivers and other devices. there is a small amount of lag but if you set up your eq properly, it's not even noticeable.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #1581 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

My nephew was over today playing Rock Band 3 on expert and was shredding it big time. I think some of the peoples lag has to do withing system settings in their receivers and other devices. there is a small amount of lag but if you set up your eq properly, it's not even noticeable.

I've tried connecting the PC's HDMI out directly to the 7000 with a short cable and still I can see lag. Not sure what else there is to change. Would love to eliminate the lag.

If he's played Rock Band before he can be anticipating the finger changes and key off the beat of the audio which won't have the lag.
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post #1582 of 4432 Old 11-13-2011, 10:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgf_bean View Post

I made my screen 5 years ago. 122" 16x9, but I'm planing to make a new one that's 2.35:1. Gluing to a peg board is an interesting idea. What did you use for adhesive?

Contact cement in a spray can. Make sure you have a window or door open and an exhaust fan if you go this route.

The screen material itself is screwed to the frame. But when I first assembled it, it had no backing, and after a while it started to warp and sag under it's own weight. A few years ago I had to partially disassemble it to add the pegboard backing. Now it's as solid as a rock. It's also much heavier. But so far it's held up very well.
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post #1583 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 01:10 AM
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To all you gamers what settings are your using? I find the colour on game mode to be to harsh for my liking. Is there a way to tame this? I think the lag is acceptable but I can notice a difference between my tv and the 5000.
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post #1584 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 02:11 AM
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this is my first post here and i have some question coz i'm going to pull trigger on the 7000
so what's best 3D glasses for it and what's about the calibration cd ,how it's work .. do i need it?
i have 4×6 m batcave room and i wanna make diy screen .. what's best size that work with my room?
sorry it's looks silly queistion but this is going to be my first projector and i have no idea about it before.
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post #1585 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sudetta View Post

There's a good thread on 3D screen here :
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1300238

Thanks, it was informative.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sudetta View Post

If it was not passive or shutter glasses, what was it?

Some 2D (I think it was Barco) and 3D with Infitec-type filters. It all looked correct.

Anyway, I might have found some usable compromise settings over the weekend:
- set glasses to "light", lamp to "normal", profile to "dynamic"
- lower temperature to -5 or -6 (this should make image not appearing too cold/blueish but reasonably well balanced)
- increase color to about 5 (this is to combat dullness with glasses on)
- increase brightness to 2..5 (will bring some additional details in darker areas - at least for a gray screen, not tested with white)
Without glasses, it should look unnaturally bright and saturated. With glasses, it should be about correct.
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post #1586 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webmonkey View Post

I notice the part about the HD8300 having better black levels

There is NO MENTION of that in the Article.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Not negative, but not a leap forward either:
A quote from Art after a direct side by side comparison of the AE7000 vs last year's Epson 8700UB. "night train scene shows blacker blacks on the Epson, and even a bit more dark shadow detail. Live and larger, the Epson also just has noticeably more pop."

AGAIN - there is no mention of that in the article.

I have no idea where you guys come up with this INFO
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post #1587 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrele View Post

Contact cement in a spray can. Make sure you have a window or door open and an exhaust fan if you go this route.

The screen material itself is screwed to the frame. But when I first assembled it, it had no backing, and after a while it started to warp and sag under it's own weight. A few years ago I had to partially disassemble it to add the pegboard backing. Now it's as solid as a rock. It's also much heavier. But so far it's held up very well.

Originally before you glued it, did you stretch the fabric around the frame? I stretched mine tightly on a frame made with 1 x 3, and after 5 years I have no sags.
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post #1588 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

There is NO MENTION of that in the Article.




AGAIN - there is no mention of that in the article.

I have no idea where you guys come up with this INFO

Wow...you must be blind!
Sorry buddy, but it's in black and white and couldn't be more clear.
It's exactly what it says

Here's a copy and paste of the whole paragraph:
Image comparing the Panasonic PT-AE7000 projector and the Epson 8700UB projector.

OK, above, Panasonic PT-AE7000 (left) vs. Epson Home Cinema 8700UB. No question about it, our badly over-exposed night train scene shows blacker blacks on the Epson, and even a bit more dark shadow detail. Live and larger, the Epson also just has noticeably more pop
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post #1589 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatshaft View Post

Wow...you must be blind!
Sorry buddy, but it's in black and white and couldn't be more clear.
It's exactly what it says

Here's a copy and paste of the whole paragraph:
Image comparing the Panasonic PT-AE7000 projector and the Epson 8700UB projector

Why does my WORD SEARCH NOT FIND it in this article

If you are taking two separate reviews on different pages - that is not FAIR.
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post #1590 of 4432 Old 11-14-2011, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Here you go.

It was not originally on the primary page.
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