Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 101 - AVS Forum
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:05 PM
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Hello,
You will need expresscard to serial RS232 adapter.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:46 PM
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Thanks guys. Just ordered an expresscard.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Do you know what the best 'deep color' setting is for the Oppo/VW95 combo? I m reading different things about this. Some say OFF is the best choise, some say OFF (Dithered) and also 36-bit is a commonly used setting. But which is the right one......

See also:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=19949

I read up on it, but could not come to a definitive conclusion about the color space or deep color settings. Seems like most uses 4:4:4 color space and the 36bit setting. I spent a lot of time switching back and forth betwen these. Using dithered sometimes produced tiny artefacts around objects (like the Oppo logo for example). I really cant see that big of difference between between them. I think most use the 36bit setting because they think it will reduce banding for example, but I did not see this.

Switching between 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 however makes more of a difference in my setup. 4:4:4 produces a tiny bit more bright, or contrasty image. This is not scientific in any way, just what my laymans eyes tell me
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drem View Post

I read up on it, but could not come to a definitive conclusion about the color space or deep color settings. Seems like most uses 4:4:4 color space and the 36bit setting. I spent a lot of time switching back and forth betwen these. Using dithered sometimes produced tiny artefacts around objects (like the Oppo logo for example). I really cant see that big of difference between between them. I think most use the 36bit setting because they think it will reduce banding for example, but I did not see this.

Switching between 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 however makes more of a difference in my setup. 4:4:4 produces a tiny bit more bright, or contrasty image. This is not scientific in any way, just what my laymans eyes tell me

I do think that OFF instead of 36bit is the best option to pick because like I said Blu-Ray material is 24bit so it makes no sense to use 36bit

Do you guys also have some bright corners with the VW95?
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:59 PM
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For those who haven't already seen this review.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/sony...ing-Experience
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

For those who haven't already seen this review.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/sony...ing-Experience

black level only "rivals" the Espon 5010...as being twice as much as an Espon 5010, you would think it should beat it easily.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardyc View Post

black level only "rivals" the Espon 5010...as being twice as much as an Espon 5010, you would think it should beat it easily.

Why?

There are other features the Sony has that add to the cost.

Regards, Frederick C. Wilt
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:25 PM
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You are also paying for the Sony ES brand. But don't forget the 95 is SXRD based. The SXRD units produce very good quality images w/o the need of a Cinema filter like the Epsons still use.

The 95 also has powered focus/shift/zoom. Those features are very desirable if you are mounting the unit higher than normal.

Also I don't think the 95 has the latency problem of the x010 models:

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Old 04-04-2012, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

For those who haven't already seen this review.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/sony...ing-Experience

Did Sony have a price drop ? I thought the MSRP was $6,999.00
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Old 04-05-2012, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

I do think that OFF instead of 36bit is the best option to pick because like I said Blu-Ray material is 24bit so it makes no sense to use 36bit

Do you guys also have some bright corners with the VW95?



No, not here


dj
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:48 PM
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I am currently working with an installer in Colorado to setup a multi-purpose room in a my parents vacation house. I think I have settled on the Sony 95ES for the room, but there will occasionally be some ambient light from a kitchenette/card table behind the seating area. The lights in front of the projector are separated from the others and the windows have motorized blackout shades. Still I am looking for a screen to help in those situations, the installer sells Stewart and I am between the Firehawk G3 and the SST. Any advice on which screen? Probably about 100" and the distance will be set dependant on the projector specs.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:35 PM
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Has anyone put an A-lens in front of the vw95? If so, what screen size are you using? I was considering using a Schneider M lens with a 130" Stewart scope screen (1.3 gain). Just curious on experiences with an anamorphic lens on this projector...
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigZAJ View Post

I am currently working with an installer in Colorado to setup a multi-purpose room in a my parents vacation house. I think I have settled on the Sony 95ES for the room, but there will occasionally be some ambient light from a kitchenette/card table behind the seating area. The lights in front of the projector are separated from the others and the windows have motorized blackout shades. Still I am looking for a screen to help in those situations, the installer sells Stewart and I am between the Firehawk G3 and the SST. Any advice on which screen? Probably about 100" and the distance will be set dependant on the projector specs.

If you are having it mounted towards the longer end of the throw, the G3 is better between the 2 for sure. The SST tends to be better for short throws, but, it also generally has worse performance when it come to ambient light help...

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Old 04-06-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgrinch View Post

Has anyone put an A-lens in front of the vw95? If so, what screen size are you using? I was considering using a Schneider M lens with a 130" Stewart scope screen (1.3 gain). Just curious on experiences with an anamorphic lens on this projector...

I use a Prismasonic 1400FE. 12' throw onto a 96" wide 2.35 screen. I am at the very limit of this lens and had to really take my time to get the image centered, including getting the lens as close to the projector as possible. If I can ever save up enough pennies with all my other money draining hobbies competing for them, I am going to move to the Prismasonic HD6000. Hope that helps you some. Let me know if you need more info.
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canary_Jules View Post

Damn it. Can't get Image Director to connect with my projector. I'm running Vista but as my PC doesn't have an RS232 port I'm using a USB-Serial connector with a male connector at the end then running a female to male serial lead into the projector. I've also tried running XP Pro from my Mac (using the USB-serial connector and Vmware) but no joy there either. I have another PC with Windows 7 on but it won't even install on that. Does it matter if you start up the projector first then the PC? I've rebooted my PC several times and still no joy. When I select the correct Com port the pj and pc seem to be talking for a while and them Image Director tells me that it can't connect. Can anyone help?

I also have a problem with connecting to id3! I have an older computer now that i borrrowed with xp and the old 9 pin com port. And I choose rs-232c in the menu. They seem to talk for a while but won´t connect??? The com1 port is activated and working according to the computer.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by batborsen View Post

I also have a problem with connecting to id3! I have an older computer now that i borrrowed with xp and the old 9 pin com port. And I choose rs-232c in the menu. They seem to talk for a while but won´t connect??? The com1 port is activated and working according to the computer.

Hi,
Do you have RS-232 null modem cable between your projector and PC?
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by maximus74 View Post

Hi,
Do you have RS-232 null modem cable between your projector and PC?

Hi! the cord is 9-pin female in one end and 9-pin male in the other, so the cable I have is a rs232 cable and fits perfect between computer and projector.
I used this cable many years ago when programming cable tv cards.

If I search my local stores here in town on nullmodem cable, I only get female in both ends. That will not fit...
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:34 AM
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Hi,
Null modem cable with male adapter.
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Old 04-07-2012, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by batborsen View Post

Hi! the cord is 9-pin female in one end and 9-pin male in the other, so the cable I have is a rs232 cable and fits perfect between computer and projector.
I used this cable many years ago when programming cable tv cards.

If I search my local stores here in town on nullmodem cable, I only get female in both ends. That will not fit...

This one works. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
Pay atention to the pin outs listed under the details section. Perhaps with this info you can find what you need from a local shop. Or just buy that one.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:10 AM
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Hi,
Null modem cable with male adapter.

Thanks for all inputs!
I bought the one with two female and a male adapter and it worked!

Has there been posted any suggested curves in this thread. It is hard to know
wich curve is absolute best.

I have the vw90 and I am running it with manual iris at 10.
Raising the gamma curve in the beginning gives me good results.

Would be interesting to know what curves other people has experimented with
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If I posted about all the different curves I have experimented with, my wife would probably divorce me.
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:11 AM
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If I posted about all the different curves I have experimented with, my wife would probably divorce me.

Ha ha ha! Okay, the top 3 then
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batborsen View Post

Ha ha ha! Okay, the top 3 then

I have experimented with several curves, including my long time favorite I ran on the RS20 for many years which is a custom curve that starts out at 2.2 and goes to 2.4 by 35 IRE and then runs 2.4 the rest of the way.

Out of everything I tried, I like a straight 2.4 curve the best. I use it for all my 2D viewing, and a straight 2.2 for all my 3D viewing. Technically a straight 2.2 curve may be better for sports but I usually don't even bother flipping the preset.

My recommendation therefore would be to use a Radiance or ID3 to set the grayscale for D65 and gamma to 2.4 for each 5 IRE increment from 5-95. Rinse and repeat except for 2.2 for 3D.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:19 AM
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Hello Ric,

I changed the Iris Close Reg parameter in the service menu from my default value (357) to 257 and i saw a significant improvement in the black level. Unfortunately the change I made in the service menu is not saved and every time I turn on the projector I have to do it again.
Is there a way to save the changes in the service menu?

P.S

What is the best configuration for 3D?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

After some discussions with Fat Dave and other members and lots of experiments and measures, I am using a tweak to the iris service menu that works very well for my setup.

First a note of caution/disclaimer: Mucking with the service menu in the Sony is not something you should do unless you know what you are doing and are super careful. Also you should write down all of your settings prior to changing anything because many settings are machine specific and if you want to go back to the default for something you will not be able to ask another member and reuse their values. Also it is not known whether making these changes can physically damage your unit so make any such changes at your own risk.

I took my starting Iris Closed Reg and reduced it by 100, and left the Iris Open Reg setting as-is. This has lowered my black floor at 0 IRE and fade to black by 50% compared to the default iris settings. As a result my on/off CR has gone from about 80,000:1 to 170,000:1.

Before getting overly excited about this very high CR, keep in mind that this sounds better than you would think in practice, because much of the black floor is lost as soon as there is an object that requires a decent amount of light (black floor blooms). IOW fade to black is very inky but then step from there one notch up involves a noticeable and fairly significant raise across the entire black floor.

With my previous experiments I also raised Iris Open reg. IMO this is what caused the brighter APL scenes to be rather flat looking. This time around I just reduced the Iris Close reg. This results in the iris being much more aggressive and closing down further on low APL scenes, while not impacting the gamma applied by the DI algorithm or changing how the iris works in high APL scenes.

The downside to this approach is that the iris now has a much greater range of operation to cover. This results in slight pumping, meaning that within the same scene you may see the scene get a little brighter or a little darker. In some cases you may even see it go back and forth, as it gets a little brighter, then a little dimmer, than brighter again and so forth, and can possibly go back and forth like this several times.

If you find that occurs too often for your tastes or is too noticeable/distracting, it is possible to reduce this side effect by switching the iris from Fast to Recommend. And you can reduce it even more by going to Slow from Recommend. I prefer Fast since it makes fade to black very striking, but Recommend is not a bad compromise.

Another side effect is that when you go from a low APL scene to high APL scene (such as bringing up the TV guide for example) you may notice the high APL scene fade in very quickly (within 0.5 seconds) rather than just being at full brightness instantly. This does not bother me.

And of course another option would be to not reduce Iris Reg by 100 but by a smaller amount, such as 70 or 50. Just keep in mind that the less the reduction the less then benefit of the iris tweak.

Now what is also very interesting about this tweak is that it has enabled me to run with High lamp mode and still be satisfied with the black floor. Within the iris trick I did not like High lamp (except for 3D) because fade to black and low APL scenes high too high a black floor. But with the iris tweak the black floor on high is still darker than the black floor without the iris tweak on low.

As a result I am now running high lamp with the iris tweak as my go-to setting. This also results in an on/off of nearly 200,000:1 (well, actually 199,700:1 but who's counting ). This also helps offset the reduced brightness levels in low APL scenes as a result of the iris being closed more. And although the black floor and black level in low APL scenes is darker yet with low lamp and the iris trick compared to high lamp with the iris trick (35% higher) it is not really that noticeable of a difference.

Having now found a nice iris tweak and having calibrated in 3D, I think I'm not fully done with tweaking and experimenting. Kinda of glad to have that wrapped up, but now a little boring too.

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Old 04-10-2012, 07:09 AM
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Yes you need to save it before you exit. It's been a while since I did mine so I can't remember off hand what the exact steps are. THey were posted in this thread at one time. Actually it was Fatdave who posted it.

Walter
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:42 PM
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Does lowering the Iris Close parameter cause the action of the Auto Iris to be more obvious?
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:52 PM
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I've been experimenting with the VW95ES and the Spears&Munsils BD on an Oppo BDP-95 player, and here's what I've found:
  • YCbCr 4:2:2 fails all chroma tests, as well as the clipping test
  • RGB video level passes the chroma tests, but fails the clipping test: the smallest square cannot be seen, regardless of brightness/contrast settings (I didn't try calibrating for RGB PC levels, and didn't test this mode)
  • YCbCr 4:4:4 passes these tests, and therefore seems to be the best color space for this projector
  • I couldn't see any difference between the Deep Color modes on this disc, I need to try Ratatouille.
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JhonS View Post

Hello Ric,

I changed the Iris Close Reg parameter in the service menu from my default value (357) to 257 and i saw a significant improvement in the black level. Unfortunately the change I made in the service menu is not saved and every time I turn on the projector I have to do it again.
Is there a way to save the changes in the service menu?

P.S

What is the best configuration for 3D?

Yes as WTS said the settings need to explicitly be saved for them to persist. Make CERTAIN to note in a safe place what your original settings are. Every unit is different and if you forget or misplace the original number there is no way to get it back.

For 3D there is no auto iris so no best configuration.
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canary_Jules View Post

Does lowering the Iris Close parameter cause the action of the Auto Iris to be more obvious?

Yes, significantly. Search my posts in this thread you will find where I already discussed this in detail.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bathes2051 View Post

I've been experimenting with the VW95ES and the Spears&Munsils BD on an Oppo BDP-95 player, and here's what I've found:
  • YCbCr 4:2:2 fails all chroma tests, as well as the clipping test
  • RGB video level passes the chroma tests, but fails the clipping test: the smallest square cannot be seen, regardless of brightness/contrast settings (I didn't try calibrating for RGB PC levels, and didn't test this mode)
  • YCbCr 4:4:4 passes these tests, and therefore seems to be the best color space for this projector
  • I couldn't see any difference between the Deep Color modes on this disc, I need to try Ratatouille.

On my review unit I found similar with 4:2:2 failing the chroma multiburst and plate patterns on the disc. I didn't see that issue with RGB Video Levels but I also didn't specifically look at the test pattern you were. All of them seemed to pass WTW and BTB just fine, but the small square is beyond that, so I'll look at that going forward. The RGB PC Levels setting just takes video level and expands it to PC level, and if a display can do WTW and BTB fine, it should work with PC levels fine.

Component worked well except the luma multiburst plate had a little bit of noise at the finest setting, which is common. I would use 4:4:4 with the Sony and not 4:2:2 as Chroma is rolled off otherwise. I also don't usually test Deep Color as with no content I don't find much reason to.

Chris Heinonen
Senior Editor, Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity, www.hometheaterhifi.com
Displays Editor, AnandTech.com
Contributor, HDGuru.com and Wirecutter.com
ISF Level II Certified Calibrator, ReferenceHomeTheater.com
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