Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 08:15 AM
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hey, a few questions
With respect to the 95;

How many FL are you getting in your 3D environment?
It appears on a studiotek 130 G3 with 1.3 gain at 12.5' throw im capped at about a 110" screen (with 3D being the limiting factor at 10FL (according to coderguys calc)

tons left over in 2D (where admittedly most of my viewing will be done and perhaps those extra FL's will come i handy watching hockey and football anyway, not sure.)

i guess im wondering if i should move up to a higher gain screen but as its my first PJ im not sure what the reality is about higher gain screens not in terms of viewing cone but of actual PQ), would i be sacrificing much PQ by moving from a studiotek 130 to say their ultramatte at 1.5 gain?

Trying to maximize screen size for CIH but i dont see how its possible while maintaining the large 16:9 footprint i want (ie 115" to 120")

this ended up more rambling than id anticipated sorry about that, your thoughts would be appreciated.

thx
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post #632 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 08:25 AM
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Does the Sony have enough blanking/Masking to get down to a 2.35:1 image? This would be very helpful to me as I'm going to be zooming and don't want overspill if I watch a movie like Tron that changes aspect ratios.
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post #633 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 09:03 AM
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Thanks, thrang/dj/lovingdvd, for the suggestions. Here is the update.

1. The shots are taken with shutter speed @ 1/30 and apeture @ 2.8. It seems that it is overexposed for some shots. That is the reason of causing the problem that lovingdvd mentioned. With eye, the first two bright bars are having different grey levels. Actually the seond screen shot shows that all the grey levels are clearly seperated. I have contrast @ 85 and brightness @ 55.

2. I played with different gamma and having the screen shots attached. You can see either the pink or the green **** with different gammas.

3. FI/DFI are all off when the shots are taken.

4. The DFI is causing a sever flicking on the image.

5. I am using joerod's setting now, It is the modified standard for the cable and the modfied cinema1 for bluray view. Thanks joerod.
LL
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post #634 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 09:05 AM
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With more gammas.
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LL
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post #635 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 09:06 AM
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Last one with gamma off.
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post #636 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

wow, I just received 5 PM's asking where to get Sammy's adventure. Here ya go:

http://www.yesasia.com/us/sammys-adv...0-en/info.html

this has a Dolby HD English track and plays fine in region 1 players. Expensive - yes.. but you all did just spend a whole lot more on a cool 3D projector, why not pick up one the best demo disks available to show it off.

While you are there, don't forget to order the first 3D porn in blu ray disc.
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post #637 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 10:33 AM
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My current projector is a shelf mounted PT AX 100 (200watts lamp) et 14.8 feet distance that has more than enough light in bright mode to fill 145 inches of a my very white painted wall.(zeo gain I presume). Can The Sony VW95 fill that size with sufficient brightness. What about 3d in my case ?

In another word I a afraid to get a much smaller (less imersive experience) much darker if I go and get a WV95

Is'nt the screen size a critical point for imersive experience even in D3 ?

What is the ideal distance/screen size to get a decent big brigt picture effect
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post #638 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Do you have a region free player? I thought the concern with the UK version was that it wasn't region 1.

I use an HTPC which can use any region, but understand the region issue for those with standalone 3d players.

I've bought a lot of UK movies and every one has played on my PS3 even though some say region B only, while in fact they are also region A. Most likely this movie is region A as well. Oh and it has the 3D version, Blu-ray version, and DVD in one package. Now for the DVD you would need a region-free dvd player most likely. (Sorry about the off topic post).
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post #639 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Does the Sony have enough blanking/Masking to get down to a 2.35:1 image? This would be very helpful to me as I'm going to be zooming and don't want overspill if I watch a movie like Tron that changes aspect ratios.

No, it does not. I tested this out yesterday for the same reason you mention.
It can only blank 50 each direction, which is well short of blanking out Tron Legacy or Dark Knight for 2.35/2.40:1.
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post #640 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:16 AM
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Joe or zombie....

Can one of you give me a rundown of how you're connecting the RF transmitter for the MV kit? I plugged the usb end into an A/C adapter and plugged the other end into the transmitter. I then ran the IR converter cable along the top of the 95 so that the transmitter at the end overhung the front of the 95. But I'm getting no signal and the red lights just flash once in a while.
Am I missing something? Do I need a firmware update?
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post #641 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

No, it does not. I tested this out yesterday for the same reason you mention.
It can only blank 50 each direction, which is well short of blanking out Tron Legacy or Dark Knight for 2.35/2.40:1.

so that 100 pixels of the 264 required... (Hey Sony want to make a firmware update?)

I have about 184 pixels covered with my velvet borders included in to the equation. So still need some more blanking... Lol.
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post #642 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

No, it does not. I tested this out yesterday for the same reason you mention.
It can only blank 50 each direction, which is well short of blanking out Tron Legacy or Dark Knight for 2.35/2.40:1.

Can you guys elaborate on why this amount of masking is desirable in the first place? They way I read it, someone wants to mask out the part of the movie which is cropped anyway? In which case the video is black.

So what is the point of masking black areas of the video anyway? If the black level is set correctly, wouldn't the projected light in the masking area be the same whether it was blanked by the processor or just black from the movie? I must be missing something here...
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post #643 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Can you guys elaborate on why this amount of masking is desirable in the first place? They way I read it, someone wants to mask out the part of the movie which is cropped anyway? In which case the video is black.

So what is the point of masking black areas of the video anyway? If the black level is set correctly, wouldn't the projected light in the masking area be the same whether it was blanked by the processor or just black from the movie? I must be missing something here...

I would use it for those few films where the scope image opens up to 16:9 IMAX such as The Dark Knight, Transformers 2 and Tron Legacy. There are several scenes in each (especially TDK and TL) where the image is 16:9 Imax. If you have your PJ zoomed in to take advantage of a scope screen, when the image opens up, it spills over outside the screen area. The masking feature would black those areas up when the image does open up.
Unfortunately, the 95 only blanks up to 50 in each direction so there is still some image spill.
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post #644 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

so that 100 pixels of the 264 required... (Hey Sony want to make a firmware update?)

I have about 184 pixels covered with my velvet borders included in to the equation. So still need some more blanking... Lol.

Anyone know how much blanking you can get our of processors like the Lumagen Radiance? Maybe that would solve it for you. Plus if you do not already have such a processor its just another reason to get one (properly/ideally implemented and working CMS, better grayscale/gamma control, automated calibration if you so choose, better scaling than in most displays/pjs, and nice enhancements like ring-free sharpness etc).
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post #645 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

I would use it for those few films where the scope image opens up to 16:9 IMAX such as The Dark Knight, Transformers 2 and Tron Legacy. There are several scenes in each (especially TDK and TL) where the image is 16:9 Imax. If you have your PJ zoomed in to take advantage of a scope screen, when the image opens up, it spills over outside the screen area. The masking feature would black those areas up when the image does open up.
Unfortunately, the 95 only blanks up to 50 in each direction so there is still some image spill.

OK, gotcha. Makes total sense. If its not already in the Lumagen Radiance to provide this extended level of masking I bet it something they would implement for you in no time at all. But my hunch is that it may already do it. Fortunately the amount of titles you have to worry about for this seems very limited so may not be worth bothering over if you don't want a processor for other reasons (like I listed above).
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post #646 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maestro J View Post

I would use it for those few films where the scope image opens up to 16:9 IMAX such as The Dark Knight, Transformers 2 and Tron Legacy. There are several scenes in each (especially TDK and TL) where the image is 16:9 Imax. If you have your PJ zoomed in to take advantage of a scope screen, when the image opens up, it spills over outside the screen area. The masking feature would black those areas up when the image does open up.
Unfortunately, the 95 only blanks up to 50 in each direction so there is still some image spill.

The JVCs dont have enough range either. Wish JVC/Sony would have thought about this since it cant be hard to add enough range for these variable aspect films!

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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post #647 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 12:23 PM
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OK, First off. I am not an owner (Seriously considering and trying to get answers/justification) So, why not ask owners and experts on this thread? If I hijack, please PM me.

A little history, unlike some on this thread I do not swap out projectors very often. I do have bias though. My first projector was a DWIN. This was one of the worst pieces of %$#*^ I have ever owned. I include toasters, electric shavers, TV's heck even a Yugo (OK, never owned a Yugo) in saying worse EVER!!! In addition, the company was absolutely horrible to work with through the failures. I even spoke to the owner (who would not tell me his last name at the time - I did not need to know he said) All this, while the dang blasted hunk of junk kept melting down. It was a DLP device, so I associate this experience with DLP; quite unfairly to all things DLPeeey!. So then I bought the Ruby from Sony. To this day, I pretty much love this machine. It's not very bright by todays standards. It is pretty big. It eats bulbs (Either you buy the whole insanely expensive bulb kit or do surgery on it and just replace the still expensive bulb). But, that same Xenon bulb that costs a ton also adds (at least to me) a very natural and real color to everything I watch. Yes, the black levels aren't fantastic and perhaps by reading reviews of new projectors, I may be getting black level envy.

Here is my layout:

Current screen is about 98" diagona lHDTV Studiotek 130, electric drop tensioned.

Room is totally light controlled. I can go from just a touch of light around a thick window treatment to 100% man cave pitch black. I have 6 in ceiling black trim can lights as well as 4 halogen dimmable wall lights to light some art and a guitar on the wall. For most viewing I do like the lights on a very, very low setting and generally prefer a touch of light in the room. With my Ruby, this has been no issue but for some movies I do drop the light to zero. My equipment is in a smoked glass window rack and the blue light show presently does not interfere with viewing. So, it's a true Man Cave.

Here I am then one monster huge Sony Projector "fan boy" but I am trying to understand what the 95 has to offer over the Ruby. Will the brightness improvement really blow me away? Are the better black levels hugely better? Do I lose that great natural color I have had with the Xenon bulb? Lord knows the bulb of the new machine is much, much cheaper than the Ruby. Is the picture sharper and noticeably so? I get 3D as an upgrade but will I really be amazed by the improvement in 2D? There are owners of the 95 who owned the Ruby and many projectors in between. I appreciate any help.

The other issue I have here is that i will need to run yet a different, and very expensive HDMI cable to the projector from the rack. I need to cover 35 feet and presently I have cables from Monoprice and although one of their higher quality cables, it may not pass 3D. Does anyone report getting 3D to the Sony with standard cables at this length? It will cost some money for this. So, this brings me to looking at the new Epson 6010. It has wireless HDMI. It is supposedly a blast o tron light engine. It is based on the 480Hz panels and its predecessor surpassed the Sony's for Black Levels. The similar and cheaper 3010 is getting rave reviews for black levels; besting the HWS30. My question is since I save dollars on a new cable, get an extra bulb, get an included wall mount, get wireless connectivity via HDMI and another producer that has made good machines; is it worth the extra bucks for the Sony.

Remember, I am a big fan of Sony. I figured no one other than owners who have forked over serious coin can give me better reasons to buy the Sony.

I also intend to get a bigger screen of around 110 to 120 inches at 16:9 so I guess more light would be better. Remember though, the Ruby was one of the most lumen challenged projectors ever made and I am not unhappy now. More light would be better though as less would be unacceptable and 3D is something I definetely want to enjoy. Thanks for any comments and advice - in advance.
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post #648 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Anyone know how much blanking you can get our of processors like the Lumagen Radiance? Maybe that would solve it for you. Plus if you do not already have such a processor its just another reason to get one (properly/ideally implemented and working CMS, better grayscale/gamma control, automated calibration if you so choose, better scaling than in most displays/pjs, and nice enhancements like ring-free sharpness etc).

The Radiance Mini3D allows you to mask 100% of the image heightwise and widthwise, I've just checked mine (running firmware 012111 incase it makes any difference) it can go down to 0.01% steps. I use mine to trim a few pixels off the sides of my image as it's a fraction too wide for my screen when I'm using my Isco II lens.

I'd also 100% say that the greyscale and gamma control is way better and easier than that built into my HD350 (can't speak for the newer models or Sonys though).

HTH.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #649 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 12:28 PM
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So here are the settings I collected from JoeRod's review:

Sony VPL-VW95ES Settings (JoeRod)

Cable/Sattelite Viewing (Normal)
Standard Picture Mode
Color Space = Normal (Or Wide 1)
Motion Enhancer on Low
Gamma 9
Black Level -1
Auto Iris 1
Lamp High
Sharpness 20
Color Temp Middle
Overscan Off

2d Blu Ray Movies
Cinema 1 (Cinema 2 for Animations)
Lamp High
Auto Iris 1
Motion Enhancer Off (Low for Animations)
Color Temp Low 1
Sharpness 10
Gamma 8
Black Level -1

Cable Settings for NFL/Sports
Dynamic
Color Space Wide 3
Sharpness 30
Gamma 7
Black Level -2
Motion Enhancer High
Lamp Mode High
Auto Iris Off (Or 1)
"A few bumps off" Max Contrast

Anyone have any other settings/configurations they would like to share or add to this?

Questions:

1) Are there ways to save each of these settings with Labels or do they need to be manually all adjusted each time so someone could adjust from one program type to another?

2) Has anyone recorded what their 3D Settings are yet?
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post #650 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Anyone know how much blanking you can get our of processors like the Lumagen Radiance? Maybe that would solve it for you. Plus if you do not already have such a processor its just another reason to get one (properly/ideally implemented and working CMS, better grayscale/gamma control, automated calibration if you so choose, better scaling than in most displays/pjs, and nice enhancements like ring-free sharpness etc).

I had a lumagen, and I never fully pushed the masking, but I know they had plenty movement avail for masking to 2.40:1 and maybe much much more.

I Loved Lumagen's sharpness when I used it for the Sony Pearl so many years ago.

I think the Lumagen products are stellar and worth evey dime. I only got ride of mine because I "needed" the extra money and I found a way to do my PC gaming at 2.35:1 without one in place.
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post #651 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 01:20 PM
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Some members know I will have one in about a week but here are my current concerns...

The slight Green / Red Hue change on a grey scale test pattern Thrang mentioned has me a little worried and the picture of the pixel clock and phase screenshots Unidisk took also have me a little concerned (Lots of red fringing and not a great one pixel on one pixel off pattern. But again hard to tell from screen shots.)

Why you may ask...

As My last 2 projectors high end DLP's. The Marantz VP-11S2 and the Samsung SP-A900B. Both were straight up amazing, and would never have had issues like this, so I can only hope the Sony is at least 95% of the image quality of the 2 mentioned.

Why do I no longer have them... I had to sell the Marantz for part of my down payment on my house. And the Samsung was just not bright enough for my un-realistically large .98 gain screen.
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post #652 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Some members know I will have one in about a week but here are my current concerns...

The slight Green / Red Hue change on a grey scale test pattern Thrang mentioned has me a little worried and the picture of the pixel clock and phase screenshots Unidisk took also have me a little concerned (Lots of red fringing and not a great one pixel on one pixel off pattern. But again hard to tell from screen shots.

I am a little concerned about this too. It would be great to know if this is an anomaly and only some units have it, versus something that all units have.

The reason I am not super concerned with it is because by all accounts so far the issues are not visible with real world material. While it is true that if an artifact can be seen in test patterns it may be seen in real world viewing, it sounds like it would take real-world viewing of a very similar frame to reproduce the issue.

For example, if there is an artifact that appears from a 1x1 alternating pixel pattern and only with such a pattern, its extremely unlikely you'll ever have a frame like this in real world viewing.

Now if Thrang was to study his snowy scenes or ice hockey (lots of white ice) and say that yes if he looked hard he could make out some color uniformity I'd be really concerned. But when he checked this he came back and emphasized that he cannot see "ANY" such issues with his hockey or other material.

Bottom line for me is that if the pj has some quirks / artifacts with test patterns but this does not show up in any way whatsoever with real world material than I am not going to let it stop me from enjoying what preliminarily seems like is shaping up to be the best pj in its price class.
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post #653 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 01:45 PM
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These are issues I forgot about, being with DLP for the last 4 years. I hope I can make the transition back without much regret. Hopefully none.

So I will be paying close attention to Bright Corners / Full Field Uniformity / Convergence / Sharpness... / ok, lets get real, I'll be nit picking everything...
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post #654 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 01:48 PM
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post #655 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 02:04 PM
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I agree with lovingdvd. In the end I love the 95ES PQ over all. Compared to the Sony Pearl PJ that I have replaced, it is a huge step up in very aspects. Owning another two plasma TVs (Penny 54VT25 and Kuro 5020), I can be sure to say that the 95ES surpsses the VT25 and comes close to 5020 in term of black level and colors.

However having said that, I would still like to find out what is causing the pink shift. I did not see in any of real picture viewing or at lease cannot identify in these couple days of viewing on the TV programs and the bluray movies. Still if you look at the DVD test pattern with the grey scales, you can tell the pinkish color over the high/bright areas no matter whether it is close to the edge or the center. Anybody has any explaination to this? Can it be corrected?

Thanks in advance for the advise.
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post #656 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 03:17 PM
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Hmm.. I had an LG CF181 right now, which is also using SXRD panel.. and I also notice color uniformity issue...In real life material, it is not apparent, but in test pattern, it is quite obvious. I am wondering if this is the price to pay for SXRD.. BTW, I thought VW95 can adjust the pixel? Would that fix the red/green shift?
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post #657 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jstabb View Post

This is slightly off-topic, but I see that a few people were AE7000 owners before picking up the VW95. Can any of you comment on the comfort of the 3rd gen Panasonic glasses vs the Sony and/or MonsterVision/Optoma glasses? I'm contemplating going with a Sony but the heavier glasses (and lack of a 2D switch on the glasses) are making me hesitate.

As an aside, I wonder if the Panny external emitter would work with a DIY cable similar to the one JohnHWman designed. That 2D switch is a big selling point for my wife.

No opinions?

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post #658 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 05:17 PM
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No opinions?

Physcially, the Panny's were very comfortable, mores than the Sony's and even a bit more than the Monster's None are uncomfortable however.

And the entire Panny 3d system did fatigue my eyes a bit, where the Sony system does not (Sony or Monster glasses - doesn't matter). So if you're including eye fatigue in this evaluation, then the Sony/Monsters win.
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post #659 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 07:26 PM
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So I've been using the 95ES against my off-white wall, and still deciding on screen materials (tested 5 or 6 samples from DaLite, a couple BD's from SI, and the ST130 and Firehawk LS from Stewart this past weekend). Have to say that from a practical perspective due to brightness the DaLite HP was excellent and my favorite, just not sure we can pull off using the material given I'd have to figure out a way to mount the project just above our heads (we have a high ceiling and windows behind the seating area) or in a coffee table. the ST130 was the best of all the samples in terms of accurate colors and best resolution in 2D, little less "pop" in 3D and of course not as bright as the HP. Here's a sample photo taken with the Sony glasses (still have to config the Monsters) using a Leica M9 and the 24mm lens at 1.4 aperture hand-held at 1/15th (so would have benefited using a tripod). The small square just left of center is the ST130 and the small square to its right is the HP. Projected image is about 138" and the projector lens is just under 20' from the wall. Wall is off white fairly matte surface (slightly creamy color). FWIW the HP did not have the "overexposed" look you see in the photo - it showed great resolution and depth and very impressive. I will note I found it difficult to extrapolate in my mind full-size screen performance from a little sample, but did have about 10 samples up on the wall and narrowed down to these two (to give the grey materials a better chance would probably have to calibrate color for them as they looked distorted side-by-side vs the white materials). At the larger screen size we're planning, and need for brightness for 3D, really hoping to get the HP to work.


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post #660 of 3591 Old 11-09-2011, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post

So I've been using the 95ES against my off-white wall, and still deciding on screen materials (tested 5 or 6 samples from DaLite, a couple BD's from SI, and the ST130 and Firehawk LS from Stewart this past weekend). Have to say that from a practical perspective due to brightness the DaLite HP was excellent and my favorite, just not sure we can pull off using the material given I'd have to figure out a way to mount the project just above our heads (we have a high ceiling and windows behind the seating area) or in a coffee table. the ST130 was the best of all the samples in terms of accurate colors and best resolution in 2D, little less "pop" in 3D and of course not as bright as the HP. Here's a sample photo taken with the Sony glasses (still have to config the Monsters) using a Leica M9 and the 24mm lens at 1.4 aperture hand-held at 1/15th (so would have benefited using a tripod). The small square just left of center is the ST130 and the small square to its right is the HP. Projected image is about 138" and the projector lens is just under 20' from the wall. Wall is off white fairly matte surface (slightly creamy color). FWIW the HP did not have the "overexposed" look you see in the photo - it showed great resolution and depth and very impressive. I will note I found it difficult to extrapolate in my mind full-size screen performance from a little sample, but did have about 10 samples up on the wall and narrowed down to these two (to give the grey materials a better chance would probably have to calibrate color for them as they looked distorted side-by-side vs the white materials). At the larger screen size we're planning, and need for brightness for 3D, really hoping to get the HP to work.
[/IMG]

Would you mind posting a photo with the HP at the top of the forehead, in the black hairline?
Thanks
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