Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 33 - AVS Forum
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post #961 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 12:30 PM
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"rational approach"??? what's that?

- chris

 

my build thread - updated 8-20-12 - new seating installed and projector isolation solution

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332917/ccotenj-finally-gets-a-projector

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post #962 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Using out of box preset cinema 1.


Lumens at min throw using 255 white...
884

Lumens at min throw using 235 white...
786

Lumens at max throw using 255 white...
729

Lumens at max throw using 235 white...
647

ANSI contrast
420

On/off contrast (auto iris)
61,765:1

On/off contrast (manual)
12963:1

I presume this is high lamp. E.g., the 786 lumens at min throw (white at 235) is very close to the 770 reported earlier by someone else (whose name slips me ATM!).

The o/f CR #'s are presumably also for high lamp (since you probably didn't change things for these measurements), and thus not as high as is used in most pj ads to get the highest values possible.

Overall, pretty good #'s!
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post #963 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 01:07 PM
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Quick impressions... (Sorry for seeming overly harsh.)

Once I get past my super OCD, the image is very good.

Still not up to the Samsung SP-A900B.

The projector is sharp for a LCOS, but not in the same ball park as the Marantz VP-11S2 or the Samsung.

It still looks like LCOS and does not have the pop of a great DLP.

But it does have great shadow detail, and easier on the eyes compared to DLP. I am sensitive to rainbows on DLP.

Certainly brighter then the Samsung.

I'm sure I will find more positives in the end then negatives, but it is not the "perfect" projector some may think it is.

Pure black is not as black as the JVC's and does have bright corners (it is slight, but there.)

I can post final thoughts until I finish calibrating.
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post #964 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 01:21 PM
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SOWK, Now if we could just get you to buy a RS55 when they come out, then we would have a hard-headed, straight-from-the-chest comparison of these two top contenders!
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post #965 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 01:41 PM
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I won't be able to post any more thoughts till tonight. But overall even with all my bitching, I still do like the overall picture quality.
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post #966 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 01:53 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Quick impressions... (Sorry for seeming overly harsh.)

Once I get past my super OCD, the image is very good.

Still not up to the Samsung SP-A900B.

The projector is sharp for a LCOS, but not in the same ball park as the Marantz VP-11S2 or the Samsung.

It still looks like LCOS and does not have the pop of a great DLP.

But it does have great shadow detail, and easier on the eyes compared to DLP. I am sensitive to rainbows on DLP.

Certainly brighter then the Samsung.

I'm sure I will find more positives in the end then negatives, but it is not the "perfect" projector some may think it is.

Pure black is not as black as the JVC's and does have bright corners (it is slight, but there.)

I can post final thoughts until I finish calibrating.

Sounds like a real piece of junk...lol. You need to send it to me...(I'll appreciate it more)
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post #967 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Using out of box preset cinema 1. (high lamp)


Lumens at min throw using 255 white...
884

Lumens at min throw using 235 white...
786

Lumens at max throw using 255 white...
729

Lumens at max throw using 235 white...
647

ANSI contrast
420

On/off contrast (auto iris)
61,765:1

On/off contrast (manual)
12963:1

Seems like the min/max throw is only about 20% difference in lumens. Now, if it is not much trouble, can we ask for the mid-throw number?? I know I will be putting my PJ in mid-throw..
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post #968 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for your first impression. You bring another (and welcome) angle.

Your background (more DLP) is different than mine (more LCOS)

Very interesting... Cant wait to hear the rest...


Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Quick impressions... (Sorry for seeming overly harsh.)

Once I get past my super OCD, the image is very good.

Still not up to the Samsung SP-A900B.

The projector is sharp for a LCOS, but not in the same ball park as the Marantz VP-11S2 or the Samsung.

It still looks like LCOS and does not have the pop of a great DLP.

But it does have great shadow detail, and easier on the eyes compared to DLP. I am sensitive to rainbows on DLP.

Certainly brighter then the Samsung.

I'm sure I will find more positives in the end then negatives, but it is not the "perfect" projector some may think it is.

Pure black is not as black as the JVC's and does have bright corners (it is slight, but there.)

I can post final thoughts until I finish calibrating.

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post #969 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 02:29 PM
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One thing I haven't heard much about recently is the issues with contrast on Sony LCOS units. Is this something that has long since been resolved (might have been more a rear projection issue anyway I think?).

SOWK: One thing I've found that helps give more depth to bright scenes is setting the gamma higher. I can't watch a DLP for long (presentations on the work's DLP give me a migrane and even cinema models don't suit me) but I love the depth on bright scenes that even a lowly IN76 demo from years ago stick in my mind. With my HD350 I increased the lumens by opening the iris a little more to give near 14fL and then calibrated to 2.3 gamma. Going back to my 2.2 gamma setting looks a little flat in comparison...might be worth a try. A further tweak was to lower the gamma back to 2.2 for low IREs like 15 and below to keep the shadow detail. No projector is perfect, but if a tweak or two helps make it 'good enough' then why not? Otherwise I'll join the queue of posters offering to 'look after it ' for you.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #970 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

One thing I haven't heard much about recently is the issues with contrast on Sony LCOS units. Is this something that has long since been resolved (might have been more a rear projection issue anyway I think?).

SOWK: One thing I've found that helps give more depth to bright scenes is setting the gamma higher. I can't watch a DLP for long (presentations on the work's DLP give me a migrane and even cinema models don't suit me) but I love the depth on bright scenes that even a lowly IN76 demo from years ago stick in my mind. With my HD350 I increased the lumens by opening the iris a little more to give near 14fL and then calibrated to 2.3 gamma. Going back to my 2.2 gamma setting looks a little flat in comparison...might be worth a try. A further tweak was to lower the gamma back to 2.2 for low IREs like 15 and below to keep the shadow detail. No projector is perfect, but if a tweak or two helps make it 'good enough' then why not? Otherwise I'll join the queue of posters offering to 'look after it ' for you.

I agree with your thinking here. I almost always watch with a customized gamma which has the upper end at 2.4. When I A/B between this and a standard 2.2 gamma, the 2.2 gamma looks flat in comparison. It is a significant different IMO. To me the 2.4 curve makes it look a little like the 2.2 setting is a bit washed out, like a slightly over exposed photo.

And in thinking about it, I will probably try a custom 2.5 gamma that has the top end finish in that range. You need a lot of on/off CR to pull that off as well as a bat cave though so not sure how that will work out.
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post #971 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 02:46 PM
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Yes, I 'only' have 30,000:1 (in practice probably nearer 20,000:1 in my long throw setup) and I think 2.3 is the max I can push it. With these new generations of projector such as the RS55 and the VW95ES you've got much more in hand to play with...one day maybe I will too.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #972 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Quick impressions... (Sorry for seeming overly harsh.)

Once I get past my super OCD, the image is very good.

Still not up to the Samsung SP-A900B.

The projector is sharp for a LCOS, but not in the same ball park as the Marantz VP-11S2 or the Samsung.

It still looks like LCOS and does not have the pop of a great DLP.

But it does have great shadow detail, and easier on the eyes compared to DLP. I am sensitive to rainbows on DLP.

Certainly brighter then the Samsung.

I'm sure I will find more positives in the end then negatives, but it is not the "perfect" projector some may think it is.

Pure black is not as black as the JVC's and does have bright corners (it is slight, but there.)

I can post final thoughts until I finish calibrating.

Thank you for your thoughts. I know that you are a DLP guy and this probably colors some of what you say meaning that your priorities would be different than mine are. The light corners disturbs me but you still found the image to be very good based on what you see. I look forward to hearing what you think of the calibration controls.

Affable Nitwit
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post #973 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 08:44 PM
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Man I am very anxious to get this calibrated... Saturday is the day scheduled so far.

Spent some time actually watching the overall "image" now instead of just the "pixels" with color at +5 (I may need it this high to get more pop on my 172" diagonal equivalent screen). I will say this, WOW. This thing can putout a hell of picture.

Shadow detail is top notch, blacks are very very good. Color at plus 5 on my screen pop. Uniformity is excellent. Motion is not bothersome. Iris is undetectable. Focus across the screen is fantastic. I am very happy overall.

Couple of things from earlier. My convergence is almost dead on, I just have a lot of blue chromatic aberration from the lens that I originally thought was my blue panel off by almost a full pixel, it's really nice to know its not. Also for those wondering, this is not visible from any realistic normal seating distances.


Some pics...




Getting lumens...


Getting ANSI & on/off contrast

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post #974 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Man I am very anxious to get this calibrated...

Spent some time actually watching the overall "image" now instead of just the "pixels" with color at +5 (I may need it this high to get more pop on my 172" diagonal equivalent screen). I will say this, WOW. This thing can putout a hell of picture.

Shadow detail is top notch, blacks are very very good. Color at plus 5 on my screen pop. Uniformity is excellent. Motion is not bothersome. Iris is undetectable. Focus across the screen is fantastic. I am very happy overall.

Couple of things from earlier. My convergence is almost dead on, I just have a lot of blue chromatic aberration from the lens that I originally thought blue was off by almost a full pixel. This is not visible from any realistic normal seating distances.


Some pics...

Nice feedback - yes, Sony has done something pretty special with this projector...enjoy it, and I look forward to more feedback
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post #975 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 09:33 PM
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SOWK - the theater build looks great, the color scheme (nice and dark all the way around) is right up my alley. It must look fantastic when the lights are off, and there is nothing to distract from the screen.

I have the same seats, everyone who sits in them loves them. I did a 4 seat curved configuration in front my 142" screen and a friend setup 3 straight front / 3 back with a raised platform for his theater room.

curious to hear if you like the 3D.
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post #976 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

SOWK - the theater build looks great, the color scheme (nice and dark all the way around) is right up my alley. It must look fantastic when the lights are off, and there is nothing to distract from the screen.

I have the same seats, everyone who sits in them loves them. I did a 4 seat curved configuration in front my 142" screen and a friend setup 3 straight front / 3 back with a raised platform for his theater room.

curious to hear if you like the 3D.


Thank you for the comments.

Have not tried 3D yet. Was not a priority of mine. I will once I get everything dialed in.
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post #977 of 3608 Old 11-17-2011, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I have the same seats, everyone who sits in them loves them. I did a 4 seat curved configuration in front my 142" screen and a friend setup 3 straight front / 3 back with a raised platform for his theater room.

What seats are those? Berklines?

That is really good news for the VW95 if someone as picky as SOWK likes the picture! BTW, very nice pics SOWK. I like your theater too.
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post #978 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 05:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Man I am very anxious to get this calibrated... Saturday is the day scheduled so far.

Spent some time actually watching the overall "image" now instead of just the "pixels" with color at +5 (I may need it this high to get more pop on my 172" diagonal equivalent screen). I will say this, WOW. This thing can putout a hell of picture.

Shadow detail is top notch, blacks are very very good. Color at plus 5 on my screen pop. Uniformity is excellent. Motion is not bothersome. Iris is undetectable. Focus across the screen is fantastic. I am very happy overall

Great!

I think they wont be many used 95 for sale this year
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post #979 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 06:15 AM
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Hello,
Has anyone some tips how to calibrate the 95es,gain and bias?It is the same thing like on JVC,lower the green and blue in gain and the same thing in bias?If i have positive values in bias it will rise the black level?There is some formula to follow without to make any compromise?
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post #980 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 09:22 AM
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Hello,
Has anyone some tips how to calibrate the 95es,gain and bias?It is the same thing like on JVC,lower the green and blue in gain and the same thing in bias?If i have positive values in bias it will rise the black level?There is some formula to follow without to make any compromise?

I can let you know after Saturday...
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post #981 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

I can let you know after Saturday...

Thanks
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post #982 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 12:20 PM
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Do somebody have some settings for 3D?
Thanks
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post #983 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

I can let you know after Saturday...




SOWK

In your ( beautyful ) dark theater, you need to try and use the gamma 4, it will give you more punch and POP in the picture, and you got the (almost black) room for it!


When setting the color with DVE , I always ( did with the 30ES, 2 x 90ES and 95ES ) end up with the value at 54 or 55 as "correct" ( and I do NOT like colors oversaturated ).

If the contrast is push over 81 its begin to decrease the steps betwen white (235) and WTW ( 255 ) and then begin to clip.

Brightness at 49 or 50 on the 95 ( on 30/90 it was 48/49 ) - the black level floor in all 4 projector´s was rising, if I was going over 50.


So I think that Sony´s projector are very similar in their ( contrast, brigthness, color, sharpness ) settings, because all the Sony projectors, I have set with DVE has ended with almost the same settings ( HW10, 2 x HW15, HW30, 2 x VW90 and VW95 )


BTW.
Congratulations on your new projector


dj
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post #984 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 03:38 PM
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I got my unit very late yesterday. By the time I got it mounted and the image squared to the screen it was ridiculously late. So that only left 2 more hours to tweak and watch at least a few things.

Overall the picture looks very impressive. I cannot say just yet that it is in an entirely different league than my RS20, which by memory puts up a pretty good fight (my RS20 is one of best) but in the end will be bested.

Also I done little in the way of calibration - just the basics - brightness, contrast, setting gains for D65 (both in high and low lamps) and starting with what will be a long process of experimenting to find the best starting positions for CMS adjustments and then making those adjustments.

The convergence out of the box was not good. I was quite surprised by this because it sounded like everyone here was reporting exceptional convergence. Then again, I am not sure everyone is checking with a 1 pixel wide pattern which really shows what is going on.

The convergence controls on the unit are great though. I used the panel adjust feature to shift red 3 down and 2 over, and shift blue 2 over - something like that. With this the convergence looks great for most of the screen. Green is still off a half pixel or a bit more on the right side. That can likely be treated effectively with the zone adjustments. I am not sure however if I will try to tame that because I do not know yet what affect the zone-level adjustments would have.

Also the color uniformity on my unit is not great. There is a very slight pinkish tone on about the last 25% of one side - its not a hard line or a band but more like a cloud type of pattern. It can be seen with bright grayscale patterns (70%+) so I was concerned if it would show up on real world material. Indeed I did spot it in a few scenes. It is not something that goes away buy turning off any of the adjustments (sharpness, motion flow, etc).

I am curious to know whether all or most units exhibit this or whether its specific to my unit. If it specific to my unit - and it sounds like it because most here have reported no such issue - I am sure my dealer will take care of me so I am not worried about it. I need to learn more about it first.

Regarding lumens - I am near the end of the long throw - maybe about 10% from the end (106" diagonal, throw of 15.5 feet, 1.3 gain Firehawk). Lumens are as follows:

This is at D65 with a dE under 1.0. I measured 105 lux with my light meter with the pj on low lamp and got 325 lumens.

I then measured 171 lux with D65 on HIGH lamp which is 528 lumens.

NOTE THAT YOU MUST CALIBRATE GAINS DIFFERENTLY FOR HIGH LAMP otherwise you will read much higher...

I also was measuring using my i1 Pro meter off the screen from one foot away. For the high lamp it measured 24ftL which is right on the nose with what my spreadsheet says I should get with my 1.3 gain screen and 171 lux.

However for low lamp my i1 Pro was measuring 15ftL which is significantly higher than the 12.7ftL that I should be getting based on 105 lux according to my spreadsheet.

So there is a discrepancy here... I can understand it if the ftL read from the i1 in BOTH HIGH AND LOW lamp mode did not match up to what my light meter said. But for it to match the light meter's number in high mode but not in low mode - that doesn't make sense.

I trust the light meter more than the i1 for this type of measure. Yet at the same time, coderguy's spreadsheet correctly predicted 24ftL for me on high and 15ftL on low - so that gives some more credibility to the i1 measurement. Any ideas? I will be experimenting more, you can be sure.

The shadow detail on this unit is exceptional and the best I have ever seen, period. With the JVCs I've owned it was not possible to see the 17% level (and in some cases 18%) without raising the entire black floor which I was unwilling to do, so I accepted some black crush. On the VW95 you can clearly make out these levels while black remains black. I believe this contributes to the great shadow detail.

Although I will be dialing in the CMS, I really like their Wide 1 color mode. It is oversaturated, but tastefully so (some folks like a bit more pop even if technically incorrect) without having a big impact on flesh tones. I could see watching animated movies like Up and Cars with this color mode instead of Rec 709.

Speaking of which, it looks like there may not be quite enough range to dial in the CMS perfectly when using the Wide 1 mode, which may mean Wide 2 could be required as a starting point for dialing in Rec 709. I'll have a lot more to say about this as I dig in this weekend.

I checked some motion handling with HD hockey. Wow! Let me repeat again, wow! When I saw the skaters moving around I immediately got that same feeling I get when standing near the glass at a game and watching the player skate around. I didn't think about it, the feeling just came over me. It took the "like looking through a window" expression and made it more like "opening the window and looking out". It looked like the players were gliding, and of course, they were!

The sharpness is great too - the announcer was talking into a big mic with a dense foam ball on the end (people still use those?) and you could see all the tiny little holes in the porous material that make up that foam. Guys I am not talking about seeing the screen on top of a metal mic - I am saying you could clearly make out all the tiny-tiny holes that are on that material. And remember I am sitting at 2x screen widths! Fine detail on this projector is outstanding.

Anyway, I have only managed to watch a few bits and pieces adding up to no more than an hour or so. My next step is to fully calibrate the projector, set up my favorite custom gamma (near 2.4 with lower low end) check its ANSI and on/off, and dial in the CMS. Then I will finally be able to sit down and fully evaluate the projector's performance and to what extent I am happy with it.

Speaking of which, I wasn't planning to do an A/B with the VW95 and my RS20, but now I am really curious to see how these two go head to head. Since I haven't sold my RS20 yet, I figure I might as well put it to good use. In my mind the 95 is superior it many but not all categories, so I want to see first-hand. I'll try to do this over the coming days. Afterall, I need to leave SOME time to actually watch the thing.

Lots more to come, so stay tuned! Any questions just ask away.
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post #985 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Using out of box preset cinema 1. (high lamp)


Lumens at min throw using 255 white...
884

Lumens at min throw using 235 white...
786

Lumens at max throw using 255 white...
729

Lumens at max throw using 235 white...
647

ANSI contrast
420

On/off contrast (auto iris)
61,765:1

On/off contrast (manual)
12963:1

SOWK - am I correct to assume that these were taken in the default color temperature (which I think is "High"?). If so the dE at 100% in there is close to 10. Brightness will likely drop about 10-12% from there if you switch to lower 1 color temp which is closer to D65 (dE of 3).

Would be great to get a summary of your lumens from max throw at high and low lamp mode taken at a calibrated D65. Thanks.
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post #986 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 03:50 PM
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First Impressions

I'm really excited to hear your reactions between the two. I'm surprised to hear that your convergence isn't top notch. My RS20 is almost perfect but what these guys have been saying it sounds as if all the 95ES's are even better.

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post #987 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 03:58 PM
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Lots of detailed stuff

Great feedback LDVD, I for one will be really interested in how you make out comparing the RS20 with the VW95ES. My Mini3D equiped HD350 is like an RS20 but with less contrast, so your comparisons will be quite relevant to me. I'm in a slightly longer throw setup than yours but close enough that your comments should similarly apply to my setup.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #988 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 04:52 PM
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I got my unit very late yesterday. By the time I got it mounted and the image squared to the screen it was ridiculously late. So that only left 2 more hours to tweak and watch at least a few things.

Overall the picture looks very impressive. I cannot say just yet that it is in an entirely different league than my RS20, which by memory puts up a pretty good fight (my RS20 is one of best) but in the end will be bested.

Also I done little in the way of calibration - just the basics - brightness, contrast, setting gains for D65 (both in high and low lamps) and starting with what will be a long process of experimenting to find the best starting positions for CMS adjustments and then making those adjustments.

The convergence out of the box was not good. I was quite surprised by this because it sounded like everyone here was reporting exceptional convergence. Then again, I am not sure everyone is checking with a 1 pixel wide pattern which really shows what is going on.

The convergence controls on the unit are great though. I used the panel adjust feature to shift red 3 down and 2 over, and shift blue 2 over - something like that. With this the convergence looks great for most of the screen. Green is still off a half pixel or a bit more on the right side. That can likely be treated effectively with the zone adjustments. I am not sure however if I will try to tame that because I do not know yet what affect the zone-level adjustments would have.

Also the color uniformity on my unit is not great. There is a very slight pinkish tone on about the last 25% of one side - its not a hard line or a band but more like a cloud type of pattern. It can be seen with bright grayscale patterns (70%+) so I was concerned if it would show up on real world material. Indeed I did spot it in a few scenes. It is not something that goes away buy turning off any of the adjustments (sharpness, motion flow, etc).

I am curious to know whether all or most units exhibit this or whether its specific to my unit. If it specific to my unit - and it sounds like it because most here have reported no such issue - I am sure my dealer will take care of me so I am not worried about it. I need to learn more about it first.

Regarding lumens - I am near the end of the long throw - maybe about 10% from the end (106" diagonal, throw of 15.5 feet, 1.3 gain Firehawk). Lumens are as follows:

This is at D65 with a dE under 1.0. I measured 105 lux with my light meter with the pj on low lamp and got 325 lumens.

I then measured 171 lux with D65 on HIGH lamp which is 528 lumens.

NOTE THAT YOU MUST CALIBRATE GAINS DIFFERENTLY FOR HIGH LAMP otherwise you will read much higher...

I also was measuring using my i1 Pro meter off the screen from one foot away. For the high lamp it measured 24ftL which is right on the nose with what my spreadsheet says I should get with my 1.3 gain screen and 171 lux.

However for low lamp my i1 Pro was measuring 15ftL which is significantly higher than the 12.7ftL that I should be getting based on 105 lux according to my spreadsheet.

So there is a discrepancy here... I can understand it if the ftL read from the i1 in BOTH HIGH AND LOW lamp mode did not match up to what my light meter said. But for it to match the light meter's number in high mode but not in low mode - that doesn't make sense.

I trust the light meter more than the i1 for this type of measure. Yet at the same time, coderguy's spreadsheet correctly predicted 24ftL for me on high and 15ftL on low - so that gives some more credibility to the i1 measurement. Any ideas? I will be experimenting more, you can be sure.

The shadow detail on this unit is exceptional and the best I have ever seen, period. With the JVCs I've owned it was not possible to see the 17% level (and in some cases 18%) without raising the entire black floor which I was unwilling to do, so I accepted some black crush. On the VW95 you can clearly make out these levels while black remains black. I believe this contributes to the great shadow detail.

Although I will be dialing in the CMS, I really like their Wide 1 color mode. It is oversaturated, but tastefully so (some folks like a bit more pop even if technically incorrect) without having a big impact on flesh tones. I could see watching animated movies like Up and Cars with this color mode instead of Rec 709.

Speaking of which, it looks like there may not be quite enough range to dial in the CMS perfectly when using the Wide 1 mode, which may mean Wide 2 could be required as a starting point for dialing in Rec 709. I'll have a lot more to say about this as I dig in this weekend.

I checked some motion handling with HD hockey. Wow! Let me repeat again, wow! When I saw the skaters moving around I immediately got that same feeling I get when standing near the glass at a game and watching the player skate around. I didn't think about it, the feeling just came over me. It took the "like looking through a window" expression and made it more like "opening the window and looking out". It looked like the players were gliding, and of course, they were!

The sharpness is great too - the announcer was talking into a big mic with a dense foam ball on the end (people still use those?) and you could see all the tiny little holes in the porous material that make up that foam. Guys I am not talking about seeing the screen on top of a metal mic - I am saying you could clearly make out all the tiny-tiny holes that are on that material. And remember I am sitting at 2x screen widths! Fine detail on this projector is outstanding.

Anyway, I have only managed to watch a few bits and pieces adding up to no more than an hour or so. My next step is to fully calibrate the projector, set up my favorite custom gamma (near 2.4 with lower low end) check its ANSI and on/off, and dial in the CMS. Then I will finally be able to sit down and fully evaluate the projector's performance and to what extent I am happy with it.

Speaking of which, I wasn't planning to do an A/B with the VW95 and my RS20, but now I am really curious to see how these two go head to head. Since I haven't sold my RS20 yet, I figure I might as well put it to good use. In my mind the 95 is superior it many but not all categories, so I want to see first-hand. I'll try to do this over the coming days. Afterall, I need to leave SOME time to actually watch the thing.

Lots more to come, so stay tuned! Any questions just ask away.

If movie watching on this pj is close to your OLD RS20 I suspect the new RS 55 will beat the Sony 95 in movies. Now sports I will suspect the Sony to stomp the jvc.
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post #989 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 05:34 PM
 
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Are the Xpand103 glasses supposed to work with the Sony?...I know they did with my VW90ES...But they don't seem to work with the 95ES????
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post #990 of 3608 Old 11-18-2011, 07:42 PM
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I believe the 95 needs to be in brightness mode 3 for the 103s.

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