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post #1351 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 12:21 PM
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Hi,
Yesterday i calibrate my 95es,according to lovingdvd suggestion with Iris on Auto 1.
I adjusted the white level and my greyscale is almost perfect,a little off only at 10%(red).
Gamma was set to OFF,and and the value is now on 2.33.
RCP was set to OFF and in this way is practically almost perfect on all saturation check (25,50,75 and 100%). Only Green at 100% is a little over saturated ,but not by much,only a little.What is funny is,now after greyscale adjustment i have 47cd/m2.In the first day when i made the measurement i was on 44,7cd/m2(maybe i was doing wrong with something).
Practically if you are OK with gamma between 2.2 and 2,45, you don't have to make many adjustments to have a very, very good picture..
I have 43 Hours on my lamp in low mode.
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post #1352 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus74 View Post

Hi,
Yesterday i calibrate my 95es,according to lovingdvd suggestion with Iris on Auto 1.
I adjusted the white level and my greyscale is almost perfect,a little off only at 10%(red).
Gamma was set to OFF,and and the value is now on 2.33.
RCP was set to OFF and in this way is practically almost perfect on all saturation check (25,50,75 and 100%). Only Green at 100% is a little over saturated ,but not by much,only a little.What is funny is,now after greyscale adjustment i have 47cd/m2.In the first day when i made the measurement i was on 44,7cd/m2(maybe i was doing wrong with something).
Practically if you are OK with gamma between 2.2 and 2,45, you don't have to make many adjournments to have a very, very good picture..
I have 43 Hours on my lamp in low mode.

In your case how many lumens does 44.7 cd/m2 work out to? And where are you in the throw range (long, mid, short)?

No you are not crazy. I experienced something similar that I think I mentioned already - my lumens has gone up about 5-8% from when I first calibrated it even though I now have 80 hours on the bulb compared to just 2 or 3 back then.

In my case I may have found a trick... When I switched to the Wide 3 color mode I noticed that my dE at 100% changed even though I hadn't calibrated the color yet. It turned out that this gave me more headroom in red. So I was able to increase the red gain to get to a dE less than 1 and pick up some additional brightness and on/off CR as a result. Sweet!

Note that this trick would only provide acceptable results if you are using a VP to do the CMS (or technically you could use RCP but may face linearity issues like SOWK reported). Also note that this should be considered a preliminary discovery because I haven't gone back and double checked it.
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post #1353 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 12:41 PM
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Hi,
I don't know in lumens, but in fL is about 13.
13 ft throw at 110" diagonal 1.1 gain.I think i am at mid-short throw.
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post #1354 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

In your case how many lumens does 44.7 cd/m2 work out to? And where are you in the throw range (long, mid, short)?

No you are not crazy. I experienced something similar that I think I mentioned already - my lumens has gone up about 5-8% from when I first calibrated it even though I now have 80 hours on the bulb compared to just 2 or 3 back then.

In my case I may have found a trick... When I switched to the Wide 3 color mode I noticed that my dE at 100% changed even though I hadn't calibrated the color yet. It turned out that this gave me more headroom in red. So I was able to increase the red gain to get to a dE less than 1 and pick up some additional brightness and on/off CR as a result. Sweet!

Note that this trick would only provide acceptable results if you are using a VP to do the CMS (or technically you could use RCP but may face linearity issues like SOWK reported). Also note that this should be considered a preliminary discovery because I haven't gone back and double checked it.

1 cd/m^2 = 0.292 ftL, therefore he's getting ~ 13 ftL

Oops--he beat me to it!
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post #1355 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 12:48 PM
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I updated my impressions (in the post comparing the 95 to the RS20) about the lack of Motion Flow in 3D for non 1080p24 sources. Specifically:
Quote:
I like watching the 1080p24 frame packed 3D with Motion Enhancer set to High. Note that the Motion Enhancer control is only available in this 3D mode, unfortunately. I did not initially realize the extent of the downside of this, but after spending a night trying some very fast scrolling PS3 3D games like Sonic Generations, I certainly do.

More specifically, very fast non-stop scrolling 3D games do not look choppy, but it is harder on the eyes and a bit blurry compared to playing on my Samsung plasma in 3D. I believe the plasma has its own motion handling that does runs in 3D mode, which could account for the difference. I am reaching out to Sony engineering to see if they will consider adding support for Motion Flow with SbS, TnB and 720p60 frame packed 3D.

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post #1356 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

1 cd/m^2 = 0.292 ftL, therefore he's getting ~ 13 ftL

Oops--he beat me to it!

That is very similar to my light output. I may be a tad bit higher but my throw may be a bit closer. At any rate it is very close. Good to know.
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post #1357 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 01:07 PM
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Support for Motion Flow with SbS, TnB and 720p60 frame packed 3D.
Do you think is possible this thing?
If so ,it will be great
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post #1358 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maximus74 View Post

Support for Motion Flow with SbS, TnB and 720p60 frame packed 3D.
Do you think is possible this thing?
If so ,it will be great

Of course! Why wouldn't it be possible... I am pretty sure my Samsung plasma supports their motion handling in all 3D formats. I am going to double check tonight and post back.

When I saw how smoothly the 3D modes of Sonic Generations and Wideout HD looked on my Samsung compared to the VW95 the importance of motion handling really came across. Both of these games are feature non-stop, very fast motion so they are going to show the effects more than other games like Super Stardust HD and Killzone 3, which both look amazing on the VW95.
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post #1359 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post


In theory you are supposed to do it with the Auto Iris off. However I noticed that when the Auto Iris is off, the grayscale measures totally different.

For instance with the Iris set to Manual I used the Custom 1 color temperature to adjust 100% to a dE of 0.6. But when I changed over to Auto1 Iris the dE at 100% measured over 3 with this same color temperature!

After seeing this, and since I do all my viewing with Auto1, I decided to calibrate everything (grayscale, gamma and gamut) with the auto iris on.

When doing gamma I was careful to use full field patterns (very important with the iris on!) and to wait about 3-5 seconds after each pattern change to give the iris time to fully adjust (you can see that sometimes a pattern starts out a bit dimmer and then within a second or so reaches its brightness level).

I do not know if this is technically correct, but I can say that the results look spectacular with test patterns (gray steps, ramps etc) and real world material.

By saying you need to wait 3-5 seconds, I think you already notice that the IRIS do CHANGE from %WHITE. And because of that, you are NOT calibrating GAMMA... Even if you use AUTO-IRIS in normal viewing, calibrating with Auto-IRIS ON will NOT give you the GAMMA you are looking for.
The reason you see 100% WHITE dE difference changed between manual and AUTO-IRIS is likely an artifact of the projector design. In Manual mode, you fixed your IRIS to one fixed aperature, and that aperature if I were to guess, is probably different from the aperature when you are using AUTO-IRIS (I presumed it is fully opened). In an ideal world, the GAMMA and dE should stay the same with ALL aperature openings, but they are more than likely NOT. What I think you can try is to find out the aperature setting of AUTO-IRIS when you project 100%, and then manually set the aperature and then calibrate all the way. Your dE at 100% should now be the same for both.

Basically, consider aperature and %WHITE as a matrix. Aperature say goes from 1-10 (A[1:10]) and %WHITE from 0-100 (W[0:100]). Gamma is a function of W[0:100]) for a fixed aperature (since for every frame, there is only 1 aperature setting). i.e.
example 1:A[0]W[0], A[0]W[10], A[0]W[20].... A[0]W[100]
example 2:A[3]W[0], A[3]W[10], A[3]W[20].... A[3]W[100]
example 3:A[8]W[0], A[8]W[10], A[8]W[20].... A[8]W[100

However, when you use AUTO-IRIS to calibrate, what you are getting maybe something lke A[0]W[0], A[1]W[10], A1[W20], A3[W30] ... A10[W100]...So, it looks OK in your graph, but it is not real GAMMA you are measuring.
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post #1360 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 01:54 PM
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Hi,
Film mode is better to Off?On default is on mode 1?It is something about the movement i think....It is working also in 3D?because in 2D when you start the movie it is not available
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post #1361 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

By saying you need to wait 3-5 seconds, I think you already notice that the IRIS do CHANGE from %WHITE. And because of that, you are NOT calibrating GAMMA... Even if you use AUTO-IRIS in normal viewing, calibrating with Auto-IRIS ON will NOT give you the GAMMA you are looking for.
The reason you see 100% WHITE dE difference changed between manual and AUTO-IRIS is likely an artifact of the projector design. In Manual mode, you fixed your IRIS to one fixed aperature, and that aperature if I were to guess, is probably different from the aperature when you are using AUTO-IRIS (I presumed it is fully opened). In an ideal world, the GAMMA and dE should stay the same with ALL aperature openings, but they are more than likely NOT. What I think you can try is to find out the aperature setting of AUTO-IRIS when you project 100%, and then manually set the aperature and then calibrate all the way. Your dE at 100% should now be the same for both.

Basically, consider aperature and %WHITE as a matrix. Aperature say goes from 1-10 (A[1:10]) and %WHITE from 0-100 (W[0:100]). Gamma is a function of W[0:100]) for a fixed aperature (since for every frame, there is only 1 aperature setting). i.e.
example 1:A[0]W[0], A[0]W[10], A[0]W[20].... A[0]W[100]
example 2:A[3]W[0], A[3]W[10], A[3]W[20].... A[3]W[100]
example 3:A[8]W[0], A[8]W[10], A[8]W[20].... A[8]W[100

However, when you use AUTO-IRIS to calibrate, what you are getting maybe something lke A[0]W[0], A[1]W[10], A1[W20], A3[W30] ... A10[W100]...So, it looks OK in your graph, but it is not real GAMMA you are measuring.

Thank you for the fantastic information! First a clarification - when I say to wait 3-5 seconds it is just to be careful. When I think about it more, I do not recall actually seeing any of the patterns actually change in brightness level from the time they are display until the following few seconds. For example if I pull up a 70% full field pattern after moving from a 65% full field pattern, I do not see the 70% pattern start at one level and then get brighter or dimmer.

The only time I noticed obvious brightening is when I first switch on an image when the pj is black. So for instance if there is no signal going to the pj and then I sent it a signal from my cable box with a still frame - when the picture first appears it is one brightness level and then over the course of the next second I see it get brighter and become more vibrant.

You bring up a great idea about trying to match the manual iris to the auto iris... Since as a baseline you suggest using a 100% full field pattern from the auto iris, this would suggest a manual iris position somewhere near maximum open. Maybe not quite the full maximum, but likely near the top of the range.

As a test I can dial in a 100% full field with the auto iris on so that the dE is close to 0. Then switch to the manual iris, and move it so that it is all the way open. Then measure dE of a 100% full field pattern and see how close it is to D65. Then start closing the iris down one step at a time and measure dE at each step, noting if it is getting closer or further from my dE with the 100% pattern with the auto iris on. I can continue measuring until I determine which iris position gives the dE which is closest to that reference auto iris measure. At that point we have the ideal manual iris position. What do you think?

OK so let's see if I have this straight. You are saying to first calibrate dE from 5-100% with the auto iris on. Then use the above procedure to find the manual iris position that best matches the dE when comparing 100% full fields in manual iris to 100% full field in auto iris. Then once that manual iris position is identified, to then calibrate the gamma in the manual iris mode. Then put the pj back in auto iris mode and run it that way. Yes?

It sounds like an interesting and reasonable approach. However I am a bit skeptical that it will work, because as I mentioned earlier, making adjustments to the gamma with the manual iris mode most likely is going to throw off the RGB balance and therefore the dE. You can then fix that in the manual iris mode no problem, but then the dE is now off in the auto iris mode...

Also your theory (if I understand it right) assumes that the dE tracking is linear with the auto iris vs manual iris, which in practice it may not be. For example let's say a 100% full field with auto iris on measures the same as with a manual iris set in position 95. Great. But its quite possible (likely) that then the 95% full field with auto iris on would not measure the same as with the manual iris set in position 95. It may require a different position, say 90. So then we have a situation whereby matching the auto iris to the manual iris is dependent on the brightness level, which of course will then be impossible to calibrate using the approach we are talking about there.

Thoughts?
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post #1362 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Thank you for the fantastic information! First a clarification - when I say to wait 3-5 seconds it is just to be careful. When I think about it more, I do not recall actually seeing any of the patterns actually change in brightness level from the time they are display until the following few seconds. For example if I pull up a 70% full field pattern after moving from a 65% full field pattern, I do not see the 70% pattern start at one level and then get brighter or dimmer.

The only time I noticed obvious brightening is when I first switch on an image when the pj is black. So for instance if there is no signal going to the pj and then I sent it a signal from my cable box with a still frame - when the picture first appears it is one brightness level and then over the course of the next second I see it get brighter and become more vibrant.

You bring up a great idea about trying to match the manual iris to the auto iris... Since as a baseline you suggest using a 100% full field pattern from the auto iris, this would suggest a manual iris position somewhere near maximum open. Maybe not quite the full maximum, but likely near the top of the range.

As a test I can dial in a 100% full field with the auto iris on so that the dE is close to 0. Then switch to the manual iris, and move it so that it is all the way open. Then measure dE of a 100% full field pattern and see how close it is to D65. Then start closing the iris down one step at a time and measure dE at each step, noting if it is getting closer or further from my dE with the 100% pattern with the auto iris on. I can continue measuring until I determine which iris position gives the dE which is closest to that reference auto iris measure. At that point we have the ideal manual iris position. What do you think?

OK so let's see if I have this straight. You are saying to first calibrate dE from 5-100% with the auto iris on. Then use the above procedure to find the manual iris position that best matches the dE when comparing 100% full fields in manual iris to 100% full field in auto iris. Then once that manual iris position is identified, to then calibrate the gamma in the manual iris mode. Then put the pj back in auto iris mode and run it that way. Yes?

It sounds like an interesting and reasonable approach. However I am a bit skeptical that it will work, because as I mentioned earlier, making adjustments to the gamma with the manual iris mode most likely is going to throw off the RGB balance and therefore the dE. You can then fix that in the manual iris mode no problem, but then the dE is now off in the auto iris mode...

Also your theory (if I understand it right) assumes that the dE tracking is linear with the auto iris vs manual iris, which in practice it may not be. For example let's say a 100% full field with auto iris on measures the same as with a manual iris set in position 95. Great. But its quite possible (likely) that then the 95% full field with auto iris on would not measure the same as with the manual iris set in position 95. It may require a different position, say 90. So then we have a situation whereby matching the auto iris to the manual iris is dependent on the brightness level, which of course will then be impossible to calibrate using the approach we are talking about there.

Thoughts?

The "problem" with using Auto-IRIS do calibrate GAMMA is, you do NOT know what lens opening you are calibrating to. I think instead of checking and see if it is "brighter or dimmer" when you switch %WHITE (which is hard to tell by the pattern, because both the IRIS and the %WHITE is changing to come up with the "RIGHT" luminance), you can check the IRIS opening visually and see if it close or open. The easiest way to check is get a 100% pattern, and then throw a 10% pattern.. if you see the IRIS close down in the 10% pattern, you know that AUTO-IRIS is working.

Having said that, if AUTO-IRIS is indeed working when you are throwing the 0-100% WHITE pattern, then what you see as a "good dE" across 0-100% is artificial. Let's make things simple by saying there is only 2 IRIS opening, and let's say from 0-40%, you have the HIGH opening, and say from 50-100%, you have the LOW opening. So, basically, you achieve good dE on 0-40% for LOW setting, and good dE on 50-100% for HIGH setting...

In real-world material, any scene will only be projected using 1 fixed lens opening. In one scene, say it is using LOW setting... In that scene, there is likely 10% material, and also 80% WHITE material... You see the issue now? the 50-100% WHITE material on LOW IRIS opening is not calibrated... and further more, you are also not calibrating the 50-100% GAMMA for this IRIS opening...

To be honest, I think if the dE and GAMMA does not track well with different IRIS opening, both method will NOT give you the correct GAMMA and dE in Auto-IRIS mode (will be OK in Manual IRIS mode). If the GAMMA tracks well, then using calibration with MANUAL IRIS will at least give you a chance. Also, I will take GAMMA more serious than dE.. as long as dE is <3.
What you can also do is to measure GAMMA across a few different IRIS setting and see how it tracks. If it tracks well, then at least you know you will get real GAMMA during real-world viewing.
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post #1363 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

The "problem" with using Auto-IRIS do calibrate GAMMA is, you do NOT know what lens opening you are calibrating to. I think instead of checking and see if it is "brighter or dimmer" when you switch %WHITE (which is hard to tell by the pattern, because both the IRIS and the %WHITE is changing to come up with the "RIGHT" luminance), you can check the IRIS opening visually and see if it close or open. The easiest way to check is get a 100% pattern, and then throw a 10% pattern.. if you see the IRIS close down in the 10% pattern, you know that AUTO-IRIS is working.

Having said that, if AUTO-IRIS is indeed working when you are throwing the 0-100% WHITE pattern, then what you see as a "good dE" across 0-100% is artificial. Let's make things simple by saying there is only 2 IRIS opening, and let's say from 0-40%, you have the HIGH opening, and say from 50-100%, you have the LOW opening. So, basically, you achieve good dE on 0-40% for LOW setting, and good dE on 50-100% for HIGH setting...

In real-world material, any scene will only be projected using 1 fixed lens opening. In one scene, say it is using LOW setting... In that scene, there is likely 10% material, and also 80% WHITE material... You see the issue now? the 50-100% WHITE material on LOW IRIS opening is not calibrated... and further more, you are also not calibrating the 50-100% GAMMA for this IRIS opening...

To be honest, I think if the dE and GAMMA does not track well with different IRIS opening, both method will NOT give you the correct GAMMA and dE in Auto-IRIS mode (will be OK in Manual IRIS mode). If the GAMMA tracks well, then using calibration with MANUAL IRIS will at least give you a chance. Also, I will take GAMMA more serious than dE.. as long as dE is <3.
What you can also do is to measure GAMMA across a few different IRIS setting and see how it tracks. If it tracks well, then at least you know you will get real GAMMA during real-world viewing.

Thanks. You have given me a lot of good info to think about. Ultimately I trust my eyes as the best meter. I have had plenty of bad gammas and great gammas of the years and I can usually tell very quickly if I have one or the other. The results I see from the VW95 calibration in auto iris gives me reason to believe the gamma is spot on! Also the changes I needed to make to the OOTB settings were rather subtle, so this leads me to believe that my calibration is correct.
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post #1364 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 07:35 PM
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No problem. Just a thought.. Maybe your eyes do not like a flat gamma.. Maybe a bit more in the dark, and maybe a bit less in the bright side. Some people prefer more black, but I personally want more shadow details.
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post #1365 of 3582 Old 12-01-2011, 08:39 PM
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Guys, finally, after a shipping delay, Fedex delivered my Xpand Youniversals today, right on time for me to review them tonight and over the weekend. Fingers crossed here for an significant performance improvement over the X103s and as stated already by a couple of others in the UK, the Sony's. I also note the Youniversals are now shipping online in the US from online stores according to a poster on the Xpand support forum, within the actual thread complaining about the lack of the app. Very poor form on Xpands part regarding no app, esp after such a delayed product launch. I really hope I don't regret being the guinea pig here and wish I'd have long since instead purchased some MV3D's! Guess tonight's testing will be a start. Anyway, here's the product packaging:


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post #1366 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 02:27 AM
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Some very initial Xpand Youniversal impressions, pleased to say they are positive so far. I have kicked off testing them with one of my fav discs, Ultimate Wave Tahiti, esp for its outdoor shots that really help show up lens tint characteristics. First off they work in max brightness mode unlike the issue with the original X103s. In direct A/B comparison they def seem to not have the overly warm tint issue of the X103s and def not the overly cold tint of the Sony's. Unfort without a pair of MV3D's I cannot test them against those of course, but kind of suspect they may well be quite close in tint. I def am pleased at initial performance in less than half an hour of viewing. The new design is extremely comfortable as anticipated. I'll do some further viewing tonight and across the weekend with more material. I hope Xpand stop holding up the PC tuning app also as I'm keen to examine, as people have with the MV3Ds tuning app, what changes can be made with it.

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post #1367 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 06:32 AM
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I am not opposed to trying the new 104s but I will say xpand has left a bad taste in my mouth with the firmware promises of the 103s which never happened. Not to mention they will still not be as good as the Monsters when it comes to keeping sync no matter what position you turn your head. You can even lay down completely or go to the restroom and the Monsters won't lose sync. That is another huge plus...

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post #1368 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 07:32 AM
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Joe -- how about running a Benq W7000 against the Sony in 3D to find the differences. Dlp vs. SXRD. The W7000 is under $3,000 so this shouldn't be a big deal. Does DLP still rule 3D? I'd like to see a DLP vs. other technology for 3D -- that's what this forum is all about. Why aren't the professional reviewers doing this with photos of crosstalk etc.?
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post #1369 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by joerod View Post

i am not opposed to trying the new 104s but i will say xpand has left a bad taste in my mouth with the firmware promises of the 103s which never happened. Not to mention they will still not be as good as the monsters when it comes to keeping sync no matter what position you turn your head. You can even lay down completely or go to the restroom and the monsters won't lose sync. That is another huge plus...

+1
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post #1370 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 01:06 PM
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Just a few questions as i prepare for my 95's arrival.

Sounds like MV3D glasses are preferred. Are Optoma glasses the same and if so is there a model # for those? Do I need anything else (besides one MV3D kit and as many Optoma glasses as I need plus the Sony glasses that come with the projector) to get all these glasses to work together?

maybe a stupid question but I assume my existing AVR in the theater room is not compatible with 3D. It is a Pioneer Elite 84. Are most people running a HDMI cable directly from there 3D bluray player to the 95 and a separate one from the bluray to there avr for audio or do I need to just replace my existing avr with one that is 3D compatible. If the latter, and this may be a question for another section of the forum, which AVR are folks gravitating to these days? Thanks
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post #1371 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krfuquamd View Post

Just a few questions as i prepare for my 95's arrival.

Sounds like MV3D glasses are preferred. Are Optoma glasses the same and if so is there a model # for those? Do I need anything else (besides one MV3D kit and as many Optoma glasses as I need plus the Sony glasses that come with the projector) to get all these glasses to work together?

maybe a stupid question but I assume my existing AVR in the theater room is not compatible with 3D. It is a Pioneer Elite 84. Are most people running a HDMI cable directly from there 3D bluray player to the 95 and a separate one from the bluray to there avr for audio or do I need to just replace my existing avr with one that is 3D compatible. If the latter, and this may be a question for another section of the forum, which AVR are folks gravitating to these days? Thanks

If your AVR is not 3D compatible, then having the 3D blu-ray player connect direct to the PJ is the only way, unless you have a seperate VP (like a Lumagen or Duo). If you have an Oppo 93, they have 2 HDMI output, and you can set one of them to Audio and set to AVR, and that would take care of the 3D issues. The Oppo is a great blu-ray player, and highly recommended by many people. I personally would get that vs. a new AVR just for 3D...
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post #1372 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

Joe -- how about running a Benq W7000 against the Sony in 3D to find the differences. Dlp vs. SXRD. The W7000 is under $3,000 so this shouldn't be a big deal. Does DLP still rule 3D? I'd like to see a DLP vs. other technology for 3D -- that's what this forum is all about. Why aren't the professional reviewers doing this with photos of crosstalk etc.?

Possibly. I did like the 6000 when I had it here. I don't have a solid source for benq though and do not want to take a hit on one right before the Holidays. Especially when I am so in love with the 95.

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post #1373 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

I am not opposed to trying the new 104s but I will say xpand has left a bad taste in my mouth with the firmware promises of the 103s which never happened. Not to mention they will still not be as good as the Monsters when it comes to keeping sync no matter what position you turn your head. You can even lay down completely or go to the restroom and the Monsters won't lose sync. That is another huge plus...

Joe, I agree the x103 firmware turned out to be vapourware. Hey I still have 4 pairs of X103s, how do you reckon I feel about that issue too. With that said re the sync benefit of RF the Xpands are now RF and will be BT compatible. That opens to door to some kind of adaption if its higher pref. I have to say, finally finishing the last half Drive Angry and watch a few scenes from Avatar, I had no sync issues in my usual lay on the sofa position. If I had issues in that department I'd have long since bought MV3Ds myself. So for me I feel I can push that aside and concentrate on pure visual performance. My further subjective viewing left me quite happy with the image quality. I've come away feeling they are quite neutral colourwise. They out of the box performance seems to be very clear to me, nice and sharp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krfuquamd View Post

Just a few questions as i prepare for my 95's arrival.

Sounds like MV3D glasses are preferred. Are Optoma glasses the same and if so is there a model # for those? Do I need anything else (besides one MV3D kit and as many Optoma glasses as I need plus the Sony glasses that come with the projector) to get all these glasses to work together?

Thing is yes, by virtue of status quo for sometime now the MV3Ds have been the preferred glasses and benchmark. However, given the Xpand Youniversal have literally just started shipping, no one has had the opp yet to conduct a much needed shootout. The Optomas and MV's are both made by Bit Cauldron.

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post #1374 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 10:46 PM
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The more I experience the VW95 the more I am blown away by the PQ. Really outstanding. I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about it really makes action scenes (among others) more intense than usual.

The picture is just so dynamic and clear. Really draws you in. Makes you feel you are there.

Also I played around with the Film Projection setting under the Motion Flow options. I found Auto 2 to be very interesting and enjoyable instead of having this setting Off as I was using before. It is hard to A/B though. Not sure, but with Auto 2 it seems to make the picture ever more solid. Anyone play around with this? What do you think?

I also noticed that in addition to the Auto Iris 1/2 modes and the Manual Iris mode, there is also an Off mode for the iris. Hummm. Personally I wouldn't use anything but Auto 1, but I am wondering if the Off position may be better suited for calibration purposes than the Manual position. I also wonder if the Off position is the same as Manual set to the maximum (100). Anyone?
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post #1375 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 10:48 PM
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How much are the new Xpand Youniversal glasses?
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post #1376 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 11:08 PM
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HI ! I got a quick question : do you guys have a tip on how to expand a 1:85 image on a 2:35 screen, without the image being completely squeezd, and thus mostly unwatchable ? I could'nt find any cropping option on either my Oppo 93 or the Sony 95, while playing with all the zooming options...Help !!! Avatar would love to expand its beauty on the whole screen !
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post #1377 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

The more I experience the VW95 the more I am blown away by the PQ. Really outstanding. I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about it really makes action scenes (among others) more intense than usual.

The picture is just so dynamic and clear. Really draws you in. Makes you feel you are there.

Also I played around with the Film Projection setting under the Motion Flow options. I found Auto 2 to be very interesting and enjoyable instead of having this setting Off as I was using before. It is hard to A/B though. Not sure, but with Auto 2 it seems to make the picture ever more solid. Anyone play around with this? What do you think?

I also noticed that in addition to the Auto Iris 1/2 modes and the Manual Iris mode, there is also an Off mode for the iris. Hummm. Personally I wouldn't use anything but Auto 1, but I am wondering if the Off position may be better suited for calibration purposes than the Manual position. I also wonder if the Off position is the same as Manual set to the maximum (100). Anyone?

Hi,
I try ed with Iris to OFF.It seems is a little easier to calibrate in this way,everything is more linear.
Next time when you will calibrate your 95es you can try in this way.
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post #1378 of 3582 Old 12-02-2011, 11:50 PM
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The value when the Iris is set to Off is 50,in this way Sony is in neutral point(factory) preset.
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post #1379 of 3582 Old 12-03-2011, 12:09 AM
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Hi,
Yesterday i verified again the convergence of my 95es,it is good but no outstanding,so i was toying a little with panel alignment.
I made a few modification with V and H for both Red and Blue,now i have -2 for both of them(V.H)....ohhh boy what a difference it makes.
What i like very much with this adjustments is the way they are working in a very small steps and visually they improve the overall sharpness of the picture.
I wonder how many of us have the perfect 95es without to touch panel alignment.
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post #1380 of 3582 Old 12-03-2011, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

The more I experience the VW95 the more I am blown away by the PQ. Really outstanding. I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about it really makes action scenes (among others) more intense than usual.

The picture is just so dynamic and clear. Really draws you in. Makes you feel you are there.

Also I played around with the Film Projection setting under the Motion Flow options. I found Auto 2 to be very interesting and enjoyable instead of having this setting Off as I was using before. It is hard to A/B though. Not sure, but with Auto 2 it seems to make the picture ever more solid. Anyone play around with this? What do you think?

I also noticed that in addition to the Auto Iris 1/2 modes and the Manual Iris mode, there is also an Off mode for the iris. Hummm. Personally I wouldn't use anything but Auto 1, but I am wondering if the Off position may be better suited for calibration purposes than the Manual position. I also wonder if the Off position is the same as Manual set to the maximum (100). Anyone?

I have been using Film Projection Mode 2 since I first turned this 95 on. The extra contrast boost is excellent. I still have not noticed the flicker that used to be much more evident on the 85 and 90.

I also do turn the Auto Iris off for sports. I should set it to 1 and then Fast to see if it is better. This weekend for sure!

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