Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 55 - AVS Forum
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post #1621 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTGallagher View Post

Deepest apologies for my stupidity, but I have done a fair amount of searching (including review of the Monster Vision 3D manual) - and I can't find anything which specifically tells me how I hook up the Monster Vision glasses to
my Sony.

The projector has what appears to be a simple mini-plug connector labeled "IR
In". (I'm taking this from the manual; I'll have to move my projector so I can
easily see what this connection actually looks like.)

Do I have to use both the emitter and the transmitter? (Some confusion here as to what does what and whether the two devices need to be connected somehow - or whether they're both required with the Sony.)

The Monster manual references the need to power the transmitter. Is there an
easy way to do this without tying up a USB port on my PC?

Thanks for any help which might be provided.

Dennis

Bumping this one up. Hopefully someone can tell me what goes where on my projector so I can easily get the Monster Vision glasses working. (Maybe I'm not quite so picky about ghost-free 3D. Everything I've seen so far using the standard Sony glasses looks better than what I've typically seen in theaters - excluding a few real IMAX presentations).
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post #1622 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

In any shootout I think it will be very difficulty to objectively judge the pjs without great care taken to even out the light levels (RS55 will need a ND filter).

If a JVC is the brighter projector in a comparison I would suggest using the iris over putting something like an ND filter in the light path, unless it is still too bright after closing the iris and putting the lamp on low (seems unlikely).

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This is the AV Science Forum. Please don't be gullible and please do remember the saying, "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me."
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post #1623 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTGallagher View Post

Bumping this one up. Hopefully someone can tell me what goes where on my projector so I can easily get the Monster Vision glasses working. (Maybe I'm not quite so picky about ghost-free 3D. Everything I've seen so far using the standard Sony glasses looks better than what I've typically seen in theaters - excluding a few real IMAX presentations).

Here's how I did it with the MV kit.
1) I charged the glasses
2) I plugged the IR receiver into the transmitter, and plugged that into the USB. Make sure everything is plugged in all the way to the hilt.
3) I placed the IR receiver on top of my center speaker in front of my screen, pointed toward my projector (which is 15 ft away).
4) I played a 3d source, and confirmed that things were working on my Sony 3d glasses.
5) The MV transmitter should now be showing green dots, not searching red dots.
6) turn on MV glasses and enjoy.

I didn't notice much differrence in performance between the MV and Sony glasses, and haven't used the supplied software to tune them.
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post #1624 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTGallagher View Post

Bumping this one up. Hopefully someone can tell me what goes where on my projector so I can easily get the Monster Vision glasses working. (Maybe I'm not quite so picky about ghost-free 3D. Everything I've seen so far using the standard Sony glasses looks better than what I've typically seen in theaters - excluding a few real IMAX presentations).


Put the IR reciever near the sony transmitter at the front of the 95( just tape it on the front off the projector ) and then the minijack from the IR-reciever into the RF transmitter ( with the 5 LED´s and joystick ) + remember a 5V USB power supply for it too. Turn on the glasses ( left side ) and now you are ready to watch some movies or tweak til you get a headache

dj
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post #1625 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Put the IR reciever near the sony transmitter at the front of the 95( just tape it on the front off the projector ) and then the minijack from the IR-reciever into the RF transmitter ( with the 5 LED´s and joystick ) + remember a 5V USB power supply for it too. Turn on the glasses ( left side ) and now you are ready to watch some movies or tweak til you get a headache

dj

Be careful where you rest the receiver (the piece with the 5 LEDs) though. I had mine sitting on top of the pj hear the front and my glasses would turn off for about a half second every minute or so. I relocated the receiver to the back of the pj and its been fine ever since.
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post #1626 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 06:24 PM
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Ordered my 95 last Friday, hopefully will receive it before Christmas. My Sony 60 will be looking for a new home soon. Still happy with it, but once I saw the 95 it was love at first sight At least that's what my wife thinks "That's all you ever talk about" But she was impressed when she saw it too and agreed it would be worth the upgrade. I hope I can talk her into a bigger screen now too.
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post #1627 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mmarki View Post

Ordered my 95 last Friday, hopefully will receive it before Christmas. My Sony 60 will be looking for a new home soon. Still happy with it, but once I saw the 95 it was love at first sight At least that's what my wife thinks "That's all you ever talk about" But she was impressed when she saw it too and agreed it would be worth the upgrade. I hope I can talk her into a bigger screen now too.

Great, glad to hear it. Just curious - is there a wait for the 95's these days or do dealers have them in stock now?

GL on selling your VW60. I am now officially looking for a loving new home for my RS20 in mint condition with less than 200 hours on the bulb. Anyone?
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post #1628 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post


Great, glad to hear it. Just curious - is there a wait for the 95's these days or do dealers have them in stock now?

GL on selling your VW60. I am now officially looking for a loving new home for my RS20 in mint condition with less than 200 hours on the bulb. Anyone?

My dealer Bob didn't have any in stock, he said there are only 20 some coming into the U.S. and he had 7 on order. They are supposed to arrive in the U.S. on Dec. 13 and mine will be drop shipped from Sony. I'm hoping for am email tomorrow with tracking info, if not than just an update. It would be nice to get it before the weekend, that way I can watch the Bears lose again, at least the picture will look great, even though the football is bad.
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post #1629 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mmarki View Post

My dealer Bob didn't have any in stock, he said there are only 20 some coming into the U.S. and he had 7 on order. They are supposed to arrive in the U.S. on Dec. 13 and mine will be drop shipped from Sony. I'm hoping for am email tomorrow with tracking info, if not than just an update. It would be nice to get it before the weekend, that way I can watch the Bears lose again, at least the picture will look great, even though the football is bad.

Sounds very similar to how things were about a month ago. So still in short supply. Probably no more than 50 units total in the U.S. at the moment.
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post #1630 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post


Sounds very similar to how things were about a month ago. So still in short supply. Probably no more than 50 units total in the U.S. at the moment.

That sounds about right. I'll ask him at his open house on Thursday. I guess I ordered at the right time.
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post #1631 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 08:45 PM
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That sounds about right. I'll ask him at his open house on Thursday. I guess I ordered at the right time.

Yes ordering before an open house sounds good. You wouldn't want to be behind those orders after a flood of people get a look at the 95 first-hand!
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post #1632 of 3583 Old 12-12-2011, 08:51 PM
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Yes ordering before an open house sounds good. You wouldn't want to be behind those orders after a flood of people get a look at the 95 first-hand!

I think you're right about that. I couldn't believe how good it looked on a 147 in screen. I only have a 92 for now, exploring options to make a 110 fit. I think it can work. Just have to move speakers around or buy some new ones. I really liked the Golden Ear speakers they had set up in the room with the 95. Maybe that's an option in the future. I definitely have the disease!!
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post #1633 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by *Harry* View Post

Thanks guys for your opinions.


My favorite to check this out: Casino Royal, the whole black/white scene on the beginning of the film.
Cause of the rapid changing of dark/bright scenes my HC's DI has a lot to work, and I see a very extremely CT shifting between cool (darker scenes) <-> warm (brighter scenes)
Harry

Did test that scene on my 95 and it do not change the CT at all ( that I can see with my eye´s anyway ) I even cant see the iris working, it just look very good , but with some film grain in ( should be there, I think ).

dj
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post #1634 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Put the IR reciever near the sony transmitter at the front of the 95( just tape it on the front off the projector ) and then the minijack from the IR-reciever into the RF transmitter ( with the 5 LED´s and joystick ) + remember a 5V USB power supply for it too. Turn on the glasses ( left side ) and now you are ready to watch some movies or tweak til you get a headache

dj

For anyone out there who's as dumb as me: the Monster glasses do not require a physical connection with the projector (so no reason to look for a place to plug them in) and the signal won't lock in until an actual 3D source is being played.
Thanks to all for your assistance. I'm going to try out some movies now -
Blu-Ray 3D menu from "HP and Hallows I" played fine; will now try some side by side material from the computer.
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post #1635 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Sounds very similar to how things were about a month ago. So still in short supply. Probably no more than 50 units total in the U.S. at the moment.

Get them while they're hot!

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post #1636 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 06:11 AM
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My favorite things about my VW95 so far:
Overall image quality: good blacks, dynamics, motion. HDMI syncs well with all my equipment.
3D is a bonus - my daughter and her friends had great fun watching Despicable Me in 3d at her birthday sleepover. 3D movie projection instantly elevated her status and cool factor. No 10 yr old kids complained of ghosting, etc. Nice to have, but we will spend less than 5% of our time with 3d.
Here's the big improvement over my old Epson 8500UB -I can run the Sony on high lamp all I want, projecting the best possible picture, and the noise doesn't bother me. Epsons are significantly louder on high lamp, and from reports I see, so is JVC. And Sony bulbs are cheap enough that I won't mind replacing the lamp every year or two.
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post #1637 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 10:16 AM
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My favorite things about my VW95 so far:
Overall image quality: good blacks, dynamics, motion...

I know what you mean. I continue to be wowed by my 95 and am addicted to watching it. Normally the high has worn off by now and I can get back to other things after the whirlwind that getting a new pj brings. But in this case I am still finding myself watching every night in amazement.

One sign that I am enjoying the pj immensely is that I am watching commercials and the non-sense that goes on in between plays in sports. Normally I skip through all that. But now I am watching because of all of the close ups and slow-mo replays in sports, and because of the variety of scenes shown in commercials. It just looks so good I want to take it in and see what my new toy can do with it.

For me, as I mentioned earlier, the most amazing aspect of this pj is its ability to render extremely fine detail, sharpness and clarity to the image unlike any pj I've had before. Surfaces that have glitter, fine details, or sparkles etc really shine and glisten - and not in an over the top way but rather in an ultra-realistic way. It makes you feel like you are right there up close looking at the objects as if they were really in front of you.

It is really hard to describe how these characteristics combine to make for an ultra-realistic looking image. Here are a few specific examples from my viewing last night that hopefully will convey a sense of what I am experiencing:

1) This commercial came came on in HD: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu3b_EvvMDo . At the very beginning you can clearly see all the details and textures in the road as the tire rolls down it.

Then have a look at the snippet between the 8 second and 15 second mark. While the camera is zoomed in on the tire rolling through the snow, I could make out seemingly every single flake of snow and the crystals and light coming of of it was so realistic it was like I was standing there.

I could make out all the flakes of snow mashed into the tires and great detail of the snow even as it was flying off the tires, as well as all the fine detail in the tire treads. And this was with all the fast motion going on to boot! . It was really jaw dropping and a sight to be seen.

2) I caught some of a HBO boxing match. One of the boxers was wearing shorts that were very "disco-y". Picture the material on a disco ball, but in fabric. His corner-men were wearing similar shirts. It was all glistening and sparkly and I watched for a while for now other reason than to take in the coolness. Again it felt like I was at ring-side.

3) I watched a late night talk show and one of the guests was wearing a black leather jacket. The shine, detail and fine texture that was coming off it is was just insanely detailed and clear. Again it was like I was standing in front of him looking at it. I had this DVRed on another HD set so I was curious to see how it looked there in comparison. When I watched it there it still had some shine to it, but it looked far less detailed and murky. In comparison it looked like I was watching it on a nice HDTV, rather than standing in front of it.

I'm looking forward to more viewing tonight, plus I have some top rated PQ movies I'll be watching later in the week and will keep you guys posted. I happened to catch a glimpse of No Country for Old Men on one of the movie channels and the PQ and contrast looked insane. There as a scene where a car went across a bridge at night time. The contrast of the lit bridge against the night sky was such a sight to see that I paused the screen, stared at it for a bit, and then immediately put it in my Netflix queue.
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post #1638 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Did test that scene on my 95 and it do not change the CT at all ( that I can see with my eye´s anyway ) I even cant see the iris working, it just look very good , but with some film grain in ( should be there, I think ).
dj

good to read that.
And don't worry, you have no eye defects, film grain belongs to these scenes of Casino Royal, it's intended.

_________
Regards,
Harry
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post #1639 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 10:32 AM
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ldvd,

Welcome back to the Sony side!
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post #1640 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 11:11 AM
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ldvd,

Welcome back to the Sony side!

Thanks. Its nice to have a Sony again (last was the Ruby) but it would sure be nice if there were more tweakers around. Doesn't seem like anyone has tried to push the envelop yet. So speaking of which...

I'm about half way through the VW60 Tweakers Thread looking to pick up ideas and tips that may also apply to the 95. Two things really stand out:

1) Tweaking the auto iris. Seems one can lower the black level through the CLOSE adjustment. Although I am still unsure of what downside this has...?

2) Panel drivers. It sounds like folks were able to get about 10-20% more light output out of the VW60 this way? Assuming it is safe and does not introduce any negative effects, it sounds like this could produce an even greater pop in contrast on the 95.

A couple concerns come to mind... One is that I wonder if pushing up the panel for any particular (or all) color then also raises its black level. In which case I am thinking its offset could be adjusted down accordingly.

And two - I wonder if there is any potential for physical damage to the unit, either initially or over time, by pushing the panels beyond what they are intended to do. After all, if nice gains in brightness and contrast could be had without downsides you would think Sony would be shipping them already in that state, right?

I am not sure but I think that by definition driving the panel harder means running higher voltage to it. So this brings to mind concerns about heat or the potential to physically damage the unit, if that is possible.

It seems that enough years have gone by with VW60 users that may have been using the panel driver to know if there are any possible longer term issues that can be caused by this. Do you know if any conclusions or even theories have been formed or validated about this?
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post #1641 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 11:29 AM
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I've a question about the convergence correction.
The VW95 has a panel shifting and zone shifting function.
Is that the same kind of alignment functionality - I mean are both SW based or is panel shifting a real HW adjustment?

_________
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Harry
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post #1642 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 01:58 PM
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I've a question about the convergence correction.
The VW95 has a panel shifting and zone shifting function.
Is that the same kind of alignment functionality - I mean are both SW based or is panel shifting a real HW adjustment?

Software based. The general consensus seems to be to use the panel shift as needed, but the zone level maybe if only absolutely necessary. I am using 0.6 pixels of blue shift down, and 0.2 pixels of red right and 0.2 red down. From A/B testing with the panel shift turned on/off I cannot find any detrimental affect from using the panel shift, and the benefit is quite obvious.
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post #1643 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 02:47 PM
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Ah, the panel drivers...

I have not heard of any degredation to the panels, although there were comments of older units (and some RP LCOS units burning out the blue polarizers). This was a LONG time ago....

They do indeed raise the black floor as you increase them. I use them mostly to correct the color of absolute black. The granularity is not very fine, but you can then adjust the W/B via either the Service Menu or the User Menu.

The negative impact would most likely be on the linearity of the grayscale. Since I don't have a VP, I have to be mindful of how far I go. Mostly it is for gaining some headroom in Red and reducing the "blue haze" in lower APL scenes. Off the top of my head, my settings are:
R=80
G=60
B=50

My offsets/bias for my Color2 is:
RB=128
GB=128
BB=128
(but I have Blue reduced to -4 in the User menu for when I come across movies with elevated black levels. These seem to give the Sony fits as it tries to show all the dark level detail that you have been so impressed with.)

You'll probably run out of red at around 90, then you can attempt to balance the color of black using the Green and Blue panel drivers.

Personally, I don't push it that hard.
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post #1644 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.West View Post

My favorite things about my VW95 so far:
Overall image quality: good blacks, dynamics, motion. HDMI syncs well with all my equipment.
3D is a bonus - my daughter and her friends had great fun watching Despicable Me in 3d at her birthday sleepover. 3D movie projection instantly elevated her status and cool factor. No 10 yr old kids complained of ghosting, etc. Nice to have, but we will spend less than 5% of our time with 3d.
Here's the big improvement over my old Epson 8500UB -I can run the Sony on high lamp all I want, projecting the best possible picture, and the noise doesn't bother me. Epsons are significantly louder on high lamp, and from reports I see, so is JVC. And Sony bulbs are cheap enough that I won't mind replacing the lamp every year or two.

Know exactly what you mean.

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post #1645 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 06:29 PM
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Guys just a minor and quite disappointing(but hardly surprising) update from the Xpand 3D forums re the X104 tweaking apps. The tech support department finally got off their butts and responded to the complaints re lack of any app form of the much promoted 'multi-platform' tweaking app being available. Sure enough there response was to say it will be between end of Dec and 'the first month of Jan'. Quite pathetic after the products been launched for a month in markets like the UK! Here's the exact quote and my rather blunt response:

Quote:


xpandtechsupport
Thank you for your interest with our XpanD product. In regards to the PC application the link that we have for the x104 youniversal 3d software application should be live around last month of this December or first month of January in this link http://www.xpand.me/products/y.... Please always check our website to keep up with updates that we have for you..

Should you need further assistance kindly give us a call
at 1.888.906.1190 or email us again.

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Ozhdht
Geez I have to say Xpand, that is extremely poor to pre-promote this product feature and then only promise to that it will be made available well over a month after the product launch. I'm relieved the 3 pairs of X104s I purchased 3 weeks ago work decently enough out of the box with my Sony VW95 projector in the meantime. However, it would have been nice to be able to experiment and customise the adjustable parameters the way Monster Vision 3D owners have been from the time that product came out...


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post #1646 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 08:12 PM
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We all read and heard their promises before. I don't even consider them a 3D glasses option anymore. Shouldn't this had been ready awhile back considering how long it took to release the 104s? Bye xpand!

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post #1647 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 08:14 PM
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We did Fright Night tonight. Pretty good flick with some scary moments! Definitely do this one with the lights out.

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post #1648 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by joerod View Post

We all read and heard their promises before. I don't even consider them a 3D glasses option anymore. Shouldn't this had been ready awhile back considering how long it took to release the 104s? Bye xpand!

2 strikes for me with their product support! Although I have to admit, out of the box the X104s are pretty damn hard to complain about performance-wise so far, despite Xpand's massive failure to follow through on time with the software. I'm def not going back to the Sony's any time soon or going to be messing around buying and trying a set of MV3Ds on top to see if they are in fact better in any ways. So if anyone was looking for a person to do a comparo, it's not me..

The latest 3D I've looked at, which is a great for bright day time and underwater footage and really helps to show up glasses performance is Shark Divers 3D.

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post #1649 of 3583 Old 12-13-2011, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post

Ah, the panel drivers...

I have not heard of any degredation to the panels, although there were comments of older units (and some RP LCOS units burning out the blue polarizers). This was a LONG time ago....

They do indeed raise the black floor as you increase them. I use them mostly to correct the color of absolute black. The granularity is not very fine, but you can then adjust the W/B via either the Service Menu or the User Menu.

The negative impact would most likely be on the linearity of the grayscale. Since I don't have a VP, I have to be mindful of how far I go. Mostly it is for gaining some headroom in Red and reducing the "blue haze" in lower APL scenes. Off the top of my head, my settings are:
R=80
G=60
B=50

My offsets/bias for my Color2 is:
RB=128
GB=128
BB=128
(but I have Blue reduced to -4 in the User menu for when I come across movies with elevated black levels. These seem to give the Sony fits as it tries to show all the dark level detail that you have been so impressed with.)

You'll probably run out of red at around 90, then you can attempt to balance the color of black using the Green and Blue panel drivers.

Personally, I don't push it that hard.

Thanks. By balancing the color of black, do you mean making a 0 IRE full field look black without color shading? You are using the drivers to balance the color of black? Or are you using the Offsets? I would think the later but you seem to be saying the former.

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The negative impact would most likely be on the linearity of the grayscale.

According to a friend it is also likely to have a negative impacat on the gamma, particularly in the high and low ends. May make it unstable. I will probably leave this alone for now. I have enough pop as it is!

Can you elaborate on your favorite iris tweak for getting fade to black and black level scenes as black as possible? Is it possible to combine this with opening up the iris to push the top end too (effectively increasing the on/off CR)?
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post #1650 of 3583 Old 12-14-2011, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

I even cant see the iris working, it just look very good

Maybe the VW95's DI is working (nearly) in realtime?

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