Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 98 - AVS Forum
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post #2911 of 3616 Old 03-12-2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

This makes me wonder if there is a way to trick the app into thinking it is running on a different OS, without using emulation, in which case I suppose it may work fine...

Hi Ric,

You might want to try to right click on the icon, select "properties", then "compatibility", check "run this program in compatibility mode for" and select Vista or Windows XP in the list. This is how you trick a program into thinking it's running from a different OS.
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post #2912 of 3616 Old 03-12-2012, 04:09 PM
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lovingdvd, I can get the id3 app to run under win7 but I had a problem connecting to the HW30, it shut it down and I haven't tried it again to find out why just yet.

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post #2913 of 3616 Old 03-12-2012, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

Hi Ric,

You might want to try to right click on the icon, select "properties", then "compatibility", check "run this program in compatibility mode for" and select Vista or Windows XP in the list. This is how you trick a program into thinking it's running from a different OS.

Thanks Manni. I had tried this but it didn't work. I set it to Windows XP SP3, but when I ran the program it said "ImageDirector is not supported on this OS." or something very close to that.

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lovingdvd, I can get the id3 app to run under win7 but I had a problem connecting to the HW30, it shut it down and I haven't tried it again to find out why just yet.

Do you recall how? Looked to me like the app is coded to look at what OS it is and display an error if it wasn't in the supported list at the time it was build.
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post #2914 of 3616 Old 03-12-2012, 08:16 PM
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I run ID3 in win7 32 ultimate with no compatiblity checked and it works fine, so I don't know if it's a support problem. Perhaps it doesn't like the other versions of win7, I don't know.

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post #2915 of 3616 Old 03-12-2012, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WTS View Post

I run ID3 in win7 32 ultimate with no compatiblity checked and it works fine, so I don't know if it's a support problem. Perhaps it doesn't like the other versions of win7, I don't know.

Maybe its the fact that its 64 bit in my case.
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post #2916 of 3616 Old 03-12-2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 4 View Post

The lens shift on the Sony allows the lens center to be as much as 15% of the screen vertical dimension above the top of your screen, the lens shift is the same as on the hS10 I believe. It is a mpotorized function addressable by the remote and is not in the service menu. Do not use keystone correction under any circumstances and keep the lens parallel to the screen. Please give us a call if you would like to discuss this or any other aspect of this very fine projector.

That worked Thanks Mark...I looked at the manual afterwards and saw those instructions there as well, helps to read the manual lol
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post #2917 of 3616 Old 03-13-2012, 07:15 AM
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I didn't think it was suppose to be a problem running 32 bit programs on the 64 bit OS, I have never had a 64 bit machine so I don't know forsure.

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post #2918 of 3616 Old 03-13-2012, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTS View Post

I didn't think it was suppose to be a problem running 32 bit programs on the 64 bit OS, I have never had a 64 bit machine so I don't know forsure.

Should not be a problem running 32 bit programs on 64 bit operating system. For those interested in this projector, we have some on the way to us.

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post #2919 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 06:31 AM
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which glasses gives the best brightness/less ghosting for the VW95?
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post #2920 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 07:11 AM
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When I said other versions of Win7 I meant the lower versions like Home edition or the one up from it, not that it was a 64 bit version.

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post #2921 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Should not be a problem running 32 bit programs on 64 bit operating system. For those interested in this projector, we have some on the way to us.

Mark giving computer advise. That is scary. At any rate I can say definitively that the Sony software will not run on Windows 7 64 bit Home Premium edition. Its not that it won't "work" or operate as expected, but rather that it refuses to run, putting up a message upon launch that ImageDirector is not supported on the OS, and then quits.
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post #2922 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Mark giving computer advise. That is scary. At any rate I can say definitively that the Sony software will not run on Windows 7 64 bit Home Premium edition. Its not that it won't "work" or operate as expected, but rather that it refuses to run, putting up a message upon launch that ImageDirector is not supported on the OS, and then quits.

Might be even scarier, but I am not Mark

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post #2923 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 11:41 AM
 
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Ric. I only give slide rule advice.

Are you coming over this weekend to see the 1000ES? it leaves to a lucky customer on Monday. Looks like I should have my own in a month.
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post #2924 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 4 View Post

Ric. I only give slide rule advice.

Are you coming over this weekend to see the 1000ES? it leaves to a lucky customer on Monday. Looks like I should have my own in a month.

Thanks Mark! I'll email you.
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post #2925 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

which glasses gives the best brightness/less ghosting for the VW95?

no idea anyone?
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post #2926 of 3616 Old 03-14-2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

no idea anyone?

The Monstervision/Optoma RF glasses seem to be the favorite, not just for the Sony but for other pjs as well.
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post #2927 of 3616 Old 03-15-2012, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

The Monstervision/Optoma RF glasses seem to be the favorite, not just for the Sony but for other pjs as well.

what is the exact type number of the Optoma glasses?
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post #2928 of 3616 Old 03-15-2012, 04:01 AM
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I believe these are the ones the Optomas @ the bottom http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-...1805439&sr=8-1

"We can complain because rose bushes have thorns or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses". - Abraham Lincoln
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post #2929 of 3616 Old 03-15-2012, 05:49 AM
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Ric,

After the tests you have run on the change of opening and closing the IRIS
in the service menu. Can you summarize your final conclusions?
what parameters you decide to change that you're happy with them and not feel a phenomenon that bothered you in your first test "flatter looking in high APL scenes"

Thanks,
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post #2930 of 3616 Old 03-16-2012, 12:12 AM
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Hi guys,

I just bought a Sony VW95 and the Optoma RF glasses with the Emitter (type-BC100).

First question already: how can I connect the emitter to the Sony and where are the arrows buttons for on the BC100 emitter??

Second I would like some basic settings to choose (going for a ISF calibration but first want to set it up so it s 90% or so perfect).

Are the recommended settings in the first page up-to-date and still preffered to use? And what about best settings for 3D. The first page says 'comming soon'. Any idea when these recommended settings will be available?

Thanks!

EDIT:
Am I correct that I will need this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNWqXq4WDFA cable to be able to use the Optoma emitter on the Sony? (Don t need the Sony glasses to work, only 2 pair of Optoma glasses which I bought with the VW95 instead of the Sony glasses).

Someone know where to get this cable in the Netherlands? Is it a custom made cable or a cable that can be sold in special stores?

EDIT2 :
I only have this http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homestead.com/IMG_5274.JPG thing that came with the (secondhand) Optoma glasses I bought and not this http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homestead.com/IMG_5278.JPG one
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post #2931 of 3616 Old 03-16-2012, 08:58 AM
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Hello Ric,

Following to my last post

Quote:


Ric,

After the tests you have run on the change of opening and closing the IRIS
in the service menu. Can you summarize your final conclusions?
what parameters you decide to change that you're happy with them and not feel a phenomenon that bothered you in your first test "flatter looking in high APL scenes"

Here is my default IRIS settings in the service menu:
IRIS OPEN REG: 689
IRIS CLOSE REG: 357


Does any change in the IRIS OPEN & CLOSE parameters in the service menu will affect the gamma?
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post #2932 of 3616 Old 03-16-2012, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JhonS View Post

Hello Ric,

Following to my last post



Here is my default IRIS settings in the service menu:
IRIS OPEN REG: 689
IRIS CLOSE REG: 357


Does any change in the IRIS OPEN & CLOSE parameters in the service menu will affect the gamma?

No time to post about this now but will do so later tonight if I have time or if not then over the weekend for sure. Good results to report.
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post #2933 of 3616 Old 03-17-2012, 10:12 AM
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After some discussions with Fat Dave and other members and lots of experiments and measures, I am using a tweak to the iris service menu that works very well for my setup.

First a note of caution/disclaimer: Mucking with the service menu in the Sony is not something you should do unless you know what you are doing and are super careful. Also you should write down all of your settings prior to changing anything because many settings are machine specific and if you want to go back to the default for something you will not be able to ask another member and reuse their values. Also it is not known whether making these changes can physically damage your unit so make any such changes at your own risk.

I took my starting Iris Closed Reg and reduced it by 100, and left the Iris Open Reg setting as-is. This has lowered my black floor at 0 IRE and fade to black by 50% compared to the default iris settings. As a result my on/off CR has gone from about 80,000:1 to 170,000:1.

Before getting overly excited about this very high CR, keep in mind that this sounds better than you would think in practice, because much of the black floor is lost as soon as there is an object that requires a decent amount of light (black floor blooms). IOW fade to black is very inky but then step from there one notch up involves a noticeable and fairly significant raise across the entire black floor.

With my previous experiments I also raised Iris Open reg. IMO this is what caused the brighter APL scenes to be rather flat looking. This time around I just reduced the Iris Close reg. This results in the iris being much more aggressive and closing down further on low APL scenes, while not impacting the gamma applied by the DI algorithm or changing how the iris works in high APL scenes.

The downside to this approach is that the iris now has a much greater range of operation to cover. This results in slight pumping, meaning that within the same scene you may see the scene get a little brighter or a little darker. In some cases you may even see it go back and forth, as it gets a little brighter, then a little dimmer, than brighter again and so forth, and can possibly go back and forth like this several times.

If you find that occurs too often for your tastes or is too noticeable/distracting, it is possible to reduce this side effect by switching the iris from Fast to Recommend. And you can reduce it even more by going to Slow from Recommend. I prefer Fast since it makes fade to black very striking, but Recommend is not a bad compromise.

Another side effect is that when you go from a low APL scene to high APL scene (such as bringing up the TV guide for example) you may notice the high APL scene fade in very quickly (within 0.5 seconds) rather than just being at full brightness instantly. This does not bother me.

And of course another option would be to not reduce Iris Reg by 100 but by a smaller amount, such as 70 or 50. Just keep in mind that the less the reduction the less then benefit of the iris tweak.

Now what is also very interesting about this tweak is that it has enabled me to run with High lamp mode and still be satisfied with the black floor. Within the iris trick I did not like High lamp (except for 3D) because fade to black and low APL scenes high too high a black floor. But with the iris tweak the black floor on high is still darker than the black floor without the iris tweak on low.

As a result I am now running high lamp with the iris tweak as my go-to setting. This also results in an on/off of nearly 200,000:1 (well, actually 199,700:1 but who's counting ). This also helps offset the reduced brightness levels in low APL scenes as a result of the iris being closed more. And although the black floor and black level in low APL scenes is darker yet with low lamp and the iris trick compared to high lamp with the iris trick (35% higher) it is not really that noticeable of a difference.

Having now found a nice iris tweak and having calibrated in 3D, I think I'm not fully done with tweaking and experimenting. Kinda of glad to have that wrapped up, but now a little boring too.
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post #2934 of 3616 Old 03-17-2012, 12:40 PM
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Ric,

Thanks for a great review !

I chose to use Gamma 4 , Did you change the Black & White Level Adj?
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post #2935 of 3616 Old 03-17-2012, 01:16 PM
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I have a strange thing going on on my VW95: sometimes the fan starts to run faster. During 10 seconds or so the fan noise raises to a point where it is stable again but of course much more noise coming from the projector. When I change some settings on my HTPC (going from 60Hz to 24Hz or something like that) causes the BW95 to slow down again but after a minute or so he starts to raise the fan noise again. Is this normal?
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post #2936 of 3616 Old 03-17-2012, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

I have a strange thing going on on my VW95: sometimes the fan starts to run faster. During 10 seconds or so the fan noise raises to a point where it is stable again but of course much more noise coming from the projector. When I change some settings on my HTPC (going from 60Hz to 24Hz or something like that) causes the BW95 to slow down again but after a minute or so he starts to raise the fan noise again. Is this normal?

I do not think that is normal. I've had the 95 for about 5 months and the only time it changes fan speed is when I switch to high lamp or back to low lamp. I also have not heard anyone else mention this. Do you notice if the pj is getting brighter/dimmer as the fan speeds up/slows down? Maybe it is somehow jumping between high and low lamp like going into 3D mode for no reason. If you run it in high lamp does the fan stay steady?
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post #2937 of 3616 Old 03-17-2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JhonS View Post

Ric,

Thanks for a great review !

I chose to use Gamma 4 , Did you change the Black & White Level Adj?

No my Gamma is OFF and I use my Radiance for the calibration. If you do not have an external VP then I agree that gamma 4 is the best starting point for the OOTB settings. However it is still far from ideal because even though the grayscale is rather accurate near D65 the gamma is not. It starts at like 2.1 at 5% and then tracks in pretty much a straight line toward 2.3 at 95%. Whereas it should be closer to a horizontal line at your target gamma (2.2 or 2.4 etc) from 5 - 95%.

If you have the know-how and meters/software you can use the ImageDirector to calibrate all this internally, overriding your gamma 4 with the necessary corrections. See Fat Dave's how-to post within the past few pages of this thread.
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post #2938 of 3616 Old 03-18-2012, 01:03 AM
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Someone knows how to get in touch with the French guy who made the custom cable for the Optoma emitter? I need a step-by-step guide how to make one myself.


And maybe he has answers to my other question:

Quote:
The Monster Vision utility update says the update 1.05.010 is uploaded to the emitter and the update exactly goes like the update manual of MV3D says but after again connecting the emitter to my PC the Monster Vision software still says 1.05.004...... So either the firmware is actually NOT applied to the emitter (and the Optoma BC-100 is not compatible with the MV3D software) OR the Monster Vision software reports incorrect information and the emitter is actaully on 1.05.010. 3. The Monster Vision utility update says the update 1.05.010 is uploaded to the emitter and the update exactly goes like the update manual of MV3D says but after again connecting the emitter to my PC the Monster Vision software still says 1.05.004...... So either the firmware is actually NOT applied to the emitter (and the Optoma BC-100 is not compatible with the MV3D software) OR the Monster Vision software reports incorrect information and the emitter is actaully on 1.05.010.

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post #2939 of 3616 Old 03-18-2012, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I do not think that is normal. I've had the 95 for about 5 months and the only time it changes fan speed is when I switch to high lamp or back to low lamp. I also have not heard anyone else mention this. Do you notice if the pj is getting brighter/dimmer as the fan speeds up/slows down? Maybe it is somehow jumping between high and low lamp like going into 3D mode for no reason. If you run it in high lamp does the fan stay steady?

just did some more testing: the fan is actaully in a low state when there s no input on the VW95. As soon as I put on my HTPC and the VW95 gets a signal (and picture) the fan starts to run faster for 10 seconds to a point where it is stable. The high lamp mode even gives a higher fan noise. So what does this tell me?
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post #2940 of 3616 Old 03-18-2012, 12:44 PM
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Has anyone figured out what exactly this machine is doing when Film Mode I or Film Mode II in the expert settings are selected?

I send the projector a 1080/60P output from my Radiance XS. I normally have Film Mode auto I selected and the motion / movement looks great. But every once in a while, I can play a BR movie or some show on HDTV and have to turn it off because the image starts to judder.

It would be nice to have a technical explanation so I can understand what the machine is doing and why. The manual does not elaborate much.
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