Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 149 - AVS Forum
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post #4441 of 4457 Old 05-14-2014, 05:56 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/PK-L2210U-Genuine-OEM-JVC-Replacement-Lamp-and-Housing-for-JVC-Projectors-/251531155490

This guy is selling the real deal... most of his auctions have sold at 175.


?
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Originally Posted by nohjy View Post

No, not necessarily. This is why you need to ask questions. You will want to ask the seller, if it is not advertised as being a version 3, whether it is one. Furthermore, some sellers do not know how to tell the difference. So, you need to ask them if the lamp they are selling has the metal fin in the air intake.

John
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post #4442 of 4457 Old 05-15-2014, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nohjy View Post

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PK-L2210U-Genuine-OEM-JVC-Replacement-Lamp-and-Housing-for-JVC-Projectors-/251531155490

This guy is selling the real deal... most of his auctions have sold at 175.


?

Thanks for the tip, was able to get it for $175.
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post #4443 of 4457 Old 05-16-2014, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nohjy View Post

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PK-L2210U-Genuine-OEM-JVC-Replacement-Lamp-and-Housing-for-JVC-Projectors-/251531155490

This guy is selling the real deal... most of his auctions have sold at 175.


?

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Originally Posted by Socio View Post

Thanks for the tip, was able to get it for $175.

Well I can tell you something is not right. $175 is close to half the cost of an OEM (version 3) lamp for dealers.

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post #4444 of 4457 Old 05-16-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post


Well I can tell you something is not right. $175 is close to half the cost of an OEM (version 3) lamp for dealers.

This is the first lamp I have purchased thus I could not tell the difference by sight between versions to save my life so when it gets here I will take pictures of it and post it for those that can, I sure hope it is the real deal.
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post #4445 of 4457 Old 05-19-2014, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitwize View Post

I've had my RS45 for 11 months and already have 1300 hours on it wink.gif Around 1000 hours I started seeing a random flicker (Low lamp mode). I put the RS45 in High lamp mode for 50 hours and then returned to Low lamp. The flicker was gone until I reached 1300 hours. I'm now seeing the flicker again, even in High lamp mode. Time to change the lamp? I ordered a replacement, but I'm curious if anyone else has had a similar experience with their RS45. The new lamp is confirmed to be a version 3.

I have the same issue, but I believe its version 2 on the lamp? Whats the difference between version 2 and 3?

1. Initially I hade a v1 without flapper and no "metal air channel" just "plastic channel". That one died after about 300 hours

2. I then got a replacement v2 (if i remember right) with the metal channel and the small metal flapper. That one started ?arcing? after about 900 hours. Turn lamp mode to high for about one hour and then I could run low for aditional 2-3hours. That lasted some hundrer hours. Now it MUST be set to high all the time otherwise the image just flickers. Especially visible in blue areas for some reason.
Just recently it even start to flicker ocassionally in high lamp mode and I dont dare to run it any more - afraid of exploding glass parts inside the PJ.
The bulb is still plenty bright on my white 240x135cm screen in high lamp mode so it feels like a waste to dump it (or save it and insert "pirate bulb" next time or for comparison fun smile.gif )

3. Now i (should according to JVC sales person) have gotten a version 3 on the table but I think it looks very similar to the previous v.2 one.
Can anyone tell me if below is the version 3 - thats all i can find on the box.
I found the info and its a v.3 - see post below
The model code is PK-L2210U.
Box sticker says CMX35051-001C


DLA-X30 firmware updated to 28.056 pretty early (I believe in the beinning of my second lamp), but I have not seen any improvements from that but who knows, the more I read the more amazing 2500 hours on a v.2 lamp seems to be, even though it has to be in high mode.

I think the reason it stays together is my long sessions - often 4-5 hours of series and movies with my G.F. who loves action and Sci-Fi just as much as I do (sometimes even more I think) since she keeps reminding me that its monday and the new episode of XYZ should be available smile.gif

Akso the electricity here in Sweden is normally rock stable so I dont use any special equipment, just a passive surge protector just in case. Stable power should also help I guess.

No air con minimizes risk of condensation and regular filter cleaning (regular as once every 6 months) should keep fresh air flowing (love the reusable filter of the X30)

Best regards
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post #4446 of 4457 Old 05-19-2014, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

2318 hours on a JVC lamp is amazing!
BTW, on my version 3 lamp, it's only lost 5% to 10% of its brightness at 450 hours. That is a lot better than my other 2 lamps.

2318 might sound good since all lamps seem to fail early )which is not good).
But the specced time is 3000 hours in low lamp mode, so flickering bulb after 1000 hours in low is not good even though it had managed 2318 when raising lamp to high to remove flicker (right now 2518, only high mode possible, fingers x'ed it keeps running to 3000 biggrin.gif).
Hence I will not say that flicker after 1000hours is good since that is like feeding JVC the words they want to hear when the lamp time is set to 3000 smile.gif
http://support.jvc.com/consumer/product.jsp?archive=true&pathId=71&modelId=MODL028963


I just got myself a new lamp directly from JVC and thanks to NL-MindfluX excellent info in the lamp meassure thread I now know it is a v3 smile.gif

Lamp version differences below also it might be worth to mention that housing rev.2 has a metal flapper in the tunnel and that the bulb series is printed in ink directly on the outside of the reflector of the lamp
- bulb serie (rev. 1: QLL0194-001, rev. 2: QLL0194-002, rev. 3: QLL0194-003)
- housing serie (rev. 1: plastic flow tunnel, rev. 2: metal flow tunnel)

Shoult be pretty interesting to see if there is any difference in light output and image quality with the new lamp smile.gif

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post #4447 of 4457 Old 05-19-2014, 04:50 PM
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I'm not sure the flickering is from the lamp. I believe it is a problem with the main board. When it starts to flicker will the projector accept commands from your remote or the buttons on the back?

Jack
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post #4448 of 4457 Old 05-19-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [Europe]Boogiem View Post

2318 might sound good since all lamps seem to fail early )which is not good).
But the specced time is 3000 hours in low lamp mode, so flickering bulb after 1000 hours in low is not good even though it had managed 2318 when raising lamp to high to remove flicker (right now 2518, only high mode possible, fingers x'ed it keeps running to 3000 biggrin.gif).
Hence I will not say that flicker after 1000hours is good since that is like feeding JVC the words they want to hear when the lamp time is set to 3000 smile.gif
http://support.jvc.com/consumer/product.jsp?archive=true&pathId=71&modelId=MODL028963


I just got myself a new lamp directly from JVC and thanks to NL-MindfluX excellent info in the lamp meassure thread I now know it is a v3 smile.gif

Lamp version differences below also it might be worth to mention that housing rev.2 has a metal flapper in the tunnel and that the bulb series is printed in ink directly on the outside of the reflector of the lamp
- bulb serie (rev. 1: QLL0194-001, rev. 2: QLL0194-002, rev. 3: QLL0194-003)
- housing serie (rev. 1: plastic flow tunnel, rev. 2: metal flow tunnel)

Shoult be pretty interesting to see if there is any difference in light output and image quality with the new lamp smile.gif

Keep in mind, how you use the projector can be a big factor on lamp life. If you turn the projector off and on and run short periods of time, the lamp will not last near as long, compared to if you run it for long hours and have much fewer start ups.

Mike Garrett, AV Science Sales
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post #4449 of 4457 Old 05-19-2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB View Post

I'm not sure the flickering is from the lamp. I believe it is a problem with the main board. When it starts to flicker will the projector accept commands from your remote or the buttons on the back?

I got the same behavior (flicker & no commands accepted) on my X3 when I move from Low to High Lamp.
Running the X3 in High altitude mode solves the issue, thanks better cooling of the main board, I believe..
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post #4450 of 4457 Old 05-23-2014, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socio View Post

This is the first lamp I have purchased thus I could not tell the difference by sight between versions to save my life so when it gets here I will take pictures of it and post it for those that can, I sure hope it is the real deal.

I just received the bulb today, as promised here is a pic, with the model number, yes it kind of looks photo-shopped that is because the number is printed on a mirrored surface;

700


Looking at what Boogiem wrote the QLL0194-003 is the version three so looks like the real deal.

EDIT: I don't know why the picture is displaying upside down.
EDIT: re-uploaded it appears to be fixed.
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post #4451 of 4457 Old 05-30-2014, 05:42 AM
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Hey fellow owners, is it worth buying a Darbee Darblet for the RS45? Any negative side effects?
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post #4452 of 4457 Old 05-30-2014, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Hey fellow owners, is it worth buying a Darbee Darblet for the RS45? Any negative side effects?

The Darbee is a good match with an RS45. I used it on my 45 for a couple years.

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post #4453 of 4457 Old 05-30-2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Hey fellow owners, is it worth buying a Darbee Darblet for the RS45? Any negative side effects?

I second that. If used correctly they Are a great match.

Chris

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post #4454 of 4457 Old 06-03-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Hey fellow owners, is it worth buying a Darbee Darblet for the RS45? Any negative side effects?
Looking at the image comparison on their home page it seems like you would get the same(horrible) result by maxing contrast and edge enhancement with loss in detail, color fidelity ringing as side effects. But I have not seen it Url just on their low def before after image.

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post #4455 of 4457 Old 06-03-2014, 12:42 PM
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The web site images are quite a bit different than video. It is just hard to represent the difference that a video processor can make and represent it as a still image.

In the Darbee thread here at AVS, I was probably the biggest skeptic. I voiced all sort of concerns and used phrases like "smoke and mirrors" and "snake oil." I accused a lot of people of being easily fooled by slick marketing and that some were clearly getting paid by Darbee to provide good reviews.

And then I got one for myself. I was offered a great deal (still pricey) and could return it if I didn't like it.

I went home and played around with it. Increased the levels, lowered the levels, turned it on and off depending on the movie, etc. I thought to myself, "this is a lot of tinkering and just a pain in the butt." Then I just set it at something like 40% (or was it 60%? I don't recall.) and I haven't touched it since. I did turn it off about 2 months ago by accident, and I wondered what was wrong with the movie I was watching. I even thought that my projector was somehow out of focus. Then I realized that it was off, and turned it back on.

It is a fairly proven technology at this point. Heck, even Oppo now puts the circuitry into some of their players. It really does work. Take it from one of the biggest skeptics, me.

Oh, and I have a JVC RS45.
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post #4456 of 4457 Old 07-08-2014, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalJackson View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by ecrabb 


What's funny is that as I pondered High-Altiude mode and toggling it on and off earlier in the day, the thought never once crossed my mind that perhaps that mode could have been inadvertently turned on. Total face palm.

I thought about just pretending this never happened, but in the interest of saving somebody else from the same issue or maybe even needlessly sending his projector back for service, I thought it was worth it to fess up.

Cheers,
SC


Glad yours was 'fixed' so easily! I have already tried toggling high altitude mode with no difference. Eventually, the fan noise will drive me crazy enough to take a look inside the projector, but just going to live with it for now.
To follow up, after having my RS45 return from repair work at Mendtronix, noise from projector was worse than when I originally sent it. Shortly after returning, projector developed a raspy rattling sound. I finally decided to open it up and take a look. Turns out the optics fan at rear of the unit was very loosely installed and easily rattled in it's metal cage when I would jiggle it. This fan was replaced at Mendtronix so not sure if new fan is slightly different size or if maybe they left off some part that padded the fan. The back of the fan had two rubber isolators but nothing separating front of fan with metal cage. I had some leftover rubber surround tape from my Danley DTS 10 so used it on the fan ...after reassembling vibration sound is now gone. Images attached showing optics fan.

Image shows exhaust fan location (yellow arrow) and optics fan location (red arrow).

IMGP8321.JPG

Close-up of optics fan installed.

IMGP8319.JPG

Optics fan with metal cage.

IMGP8325.JPG

Optics fan removed from cage.

IMGP8328.JPG

rubber surround tape added to fan to reduce vibration noise.

IMGP8332.JPG

______________

My Build Thread

Last edited by DigitalJackson; 07-08-2014 at 04:59 PM.
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post #4457 of 4457 Old 07-20-2014, 07:51 PM
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Help updating firmware

Having occasional screen freeze on unit purchased 1-12 (colored lines on black background) and only way to clear it is unplug/reset. I've been told that shortens the bulb life and last one only made it 1200 hrs. So now I have the new "gen 3" bulb and trying to update the firmware without success.
I'm trying to do it using laptop. I dl the updater tool.

To input the projector IP/subnet mask/default onto the projector, on my PC I bring up cmd prompt, it's connected to a wireless network, I type in ipconfig\all. See photo of results.

#1 So, which set of numbers should I use? I assume the "Ethernet adapter Local area connection" rather than the "wireless LAN adapter wireless network connection" as I am connection PC to projector via direct LAN.

#2 if so, the Ethernet adapter Local area connection "default gateway" value is blank. What to use?

#3 under each choice respectively, is the "IPV4 address" and the "IPv6 address" the referenced "IP address?" The instructions said to assign the projector an IP address other than actual IP address.
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