Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 150 - AVS Forum
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post #4471 of 4496 Unread 09-28-2014, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkarmouche View Post
I don't think any areas are accessible for cleaning, except the bulb compartment. So hopefully you can wipe inside the bulb compartment without removing the whole projector from the mount.

If you search around, there's a thread where someone shows how a hazy film can form on the glass inside the bulb compartment (accessible after the bulb housing is pulled out). As I recall, they reported an increase in sharpness and others even reported better brightness after cleaning- so it would be worth paying attention to cleaning that glass properly while you're at it.

Here it is (post 8526): Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread

When you do pull the blown bulb, it would be interesting to know what version it is, and whether or not it has a "flapper". Maybe a photo of the failed bulb?

Paul
Thanks again, yes sure, will record my bulb replacement journey, although I wish I could use my money elsewhere

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post #4472 of 4496 Unread 09-28-2014, 10:38 PM
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Can anyone confirm:

1. that the correct bulb model for X30 / RS45 is L2210UP ? I got that on JVC USA homepage, the 2210UG is apparently for X3.

2. the latest firmware version for X30 is: Main firmware: V1_1 \ Sub firmware: V1_3 ?

Thanks very much.

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post #4473 of 4496 Unread 09-29-2014, 08:43 PM
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X30 problem continues

Any advice is appreciated.

Took the bulb out last night after the pop heard turning on the PJ Sunday evening thinking it was the bulb, the bulb appeared intact and in perfect condition (to me), so situation could be worst than I thought.

Apparently the bulb has a -003 marking on it while didn't look like there was any 'fin' in the housing to me, pictures attached for those interested.

Pop the bulb back in, plugged back power cord, still no indicator light in front.

Has anyone experienced that before and what was your solution to the problem?
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post #4474 of 4496 Unread 10-05-2014, 06:11 AM
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If you are out of warranty, I would carefully examine the power supply if you get absolutely no indicator.
Could be a popped capacitor, but when a cap pops it usually smokes.

When projectors shut-off suddenly from unexpected power loss such as a failed electronic piece affecting power distribution, sometimes the sudden shut off can sound like a pop for various reasons...

I would guess the power supply next, but first try leaving projector unplugged for a few hours. I know this sounds silly but sometimes traditional electronics get in stuck states (though rare) and caps need to drain out fully for P/S to reset itself.


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post #4475 of 4496 Unread 10-07-2014, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
If you are out of warranty, I would carefully examine the power supply if you get absolutely no indicator.
Could be a popped capacitor, but when a cap pops it usually smokes.

When projectors shut-off suddenly from unexpected power loss such as a failed electronic piece affecting power distribution, sometimes the sudden shut off can sound like a pop for various reasons...

I would guess the power supply next, but first try leaving projector unplugged for a few hours. I know this sounds silly but sometimes traditional electronics get in stuck states (though rare) and caps need to drain out fully for P/S to reset itself.
Thanks, the unit was left unplugged for at least 24 hours and no change to the status. I have since sent the unit back to our local agent for repair, with a hefty checkup fee since it is out of warranty.

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post #4476 of 4496 Unread 10-08-2014, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nohjy View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by Socio

Does the model number l2210u signify it is the version 3?

No, not necessarily. This is why you need to ask questions. You will want to ask the seller, if it is not advertised as being a version 3, whether it is one. Furthermore, some sellers do not know how to tell the difference. So, you need to ask them if the lamp they are selling has the metal fin in the air intake.

John
The next time one of you guys buys a spare bulb can you post a photo here and circle the metal fin in the air intake, so I know what you are talking about?

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post #4477 of 4496 Unread 10-08-2014, 07:03 PM
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post #4478 of 4496 Unread 10-09-2014, 10:31 PM
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for what its worth, my X30's main / power board has to be replaced, about $300 for the part, plus labor.

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post #4479 of 4496 Unread 10-10-2014, 03:35 PM
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Thanks Fatshaft! +1 to you.

I bought a used bulb off ebay for $30 shipped, supposedly has 500 hours on it, it has that fin so I guess it is a 3rd gen model.

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post #4480 of 4496 Unread 10-10-2014, 06:24 PM
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Since inserting a hdmi cable into my JVC X30 while it was running and getting some static electricity im getting warning lights. first led from the left is solid red, second is solid orange and the third is blinking 5 times in a row.

Did i just kill the lamp or is it something more sinister? I get no fan noise or clicking.. It's completely silent.

It worked fine before all this.

Thanks.

Last edited by space777; 10-10-2014 at 07:06 PM.
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post #4481 of 4496 Unread 10-11-2014, 04:50 PM
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Fatshaft, is the metal fin fixed in place or is it hinged and movable?
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post #4482 of 4496 Unread 10-23-2014, 06:17 PM
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Nebrunner,


I just got a new bulb from AVS for my RS-45. The metal fin is moveable (flaps side-to-side).


My old bulb had about 1360 hours on it (it was the bulb that came with the projector, with the black plastic duct and no fin). Comparing it to the replacement you can really see the degradation - the rear reflector is gray and crazed, and the post inside the bulb leans about 10 degrees to one side. The bulb produced a good picture until about 1300 hours - in the last couple of weeks the light output dropped dramatically, colors faded, and in the last several hours of use the picture appeared somewhat out of focus. All is well with the new bulb installed.


Cheers,


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post #4483 of 4496 Unread 10-25-2014, 04:37 PM
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Well I got my RS45 back from Mendtronix. $41 shipping (30 miles) to facility + $883 for labor and parts and return shipping. It required a new motherboard apparently. $60 for firmware upgrade! Really? Takes me about 5 minutes to do that.

On return the projector cover screws had been tightened down too much resulting in 3 cracks in the side covers, one really bad. Called Mentronix and they are shipping me new covers.

Tested out the repaired unit and it looks good and worked well. Need to recal now.

As noted before AmEx card covered everthing but the $60 fw upgrade fee. Not too bad.

Now I will wait a few years for a 4K Laser projector with witch I'll likely be buried with one I pass on in another 30 yrs or so.
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post #4484 of 4496 Unread 11-10-2014, 10:35 AM
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RS45 Issue

I have an RS45 that I am having an issue with. I turn on the projector and get a green LED light and then it goes off but the projector never comes on. I can see some light coming from the lamp but I never get a DILA splash screen or any picture. I just purchased a replacement bulb and I am getting the same thing with the new bulb. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing the issue?
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post #4485 of 4496 Unread 11-10-2014, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsung View Post
I have an RS45 that I am having an issue with. I turn on the projector and get a green LED light and then it goes off but the projector never comes on. I can see some light coming from the lamp but I never get a DILA splash screen or any picture. I just purchased a replacement bulb and I am getting the same thing with the new bulb. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing the issue?
Too bad. Welcome to the club. Read this or the RS40/X3 thread. Your issue is well documented. Hope you are within your warranty period.

Jack
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post #4486 of 4496 Unread 11-10-2014, 01:16 PM
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Too bad. Welcome to the club. Read this or the RS40/X3 thread. Your issue is well documented. Hope you are within your warranty period.

Thanks for your reply. I did a quick search in this thread before I posted but didn't see my exact issue. I saw lots of posts with similar symptoms but with flashing red/orange LEDs after the green light goes off. After my green light goes off I don't have any LEDs lit.

Regardless, it unfortunately sounds like it will need to be returned for service.
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post #4487 of 4496 Unread 11-10-2014, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsung View Post
Thanks for your reply. I did a quick search in this thread before I posted but didn't see my exact issue. I saw lots of posts with similar symptoms but with flashing red/orange LEDs after the green light goes off. After my green light goes off I don't have any LEDs lit.

Regardless, it unfortunately sounds like it will need to be returned for service.
It's probably the main board or power supply.

Jack
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post #4488 of 4496 Unread 11-11-2014, 01:55 PM
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So last night I disconnected all of the cables and left the projector on. I came back about 2 hours later and the projector had finally came on and was working. Reconnected all the cables and powered on/off several times and it seems to be working fine again. I don't think it will last as the problem seems to be intermittent but I am going to wait for it to fail again before sending it in.
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post #4489 of 4496 Unread 11-11-2014, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drsung View Post
So last night I disconnected all of the cables and left the projector on. I came back about 2 hours later and the projector had finally came on and was working. Reconnected all the cables and powered on/off several times and it seems to be working fine again. I don't think it will last as the problem seems to be intermittent but I am going to wait for it to fail again before sending it in.
That's a new solution. I'm sure everyone will log that.

Jack
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post #4490 of 4496 Unread 11-26-2014, 12:33 AM
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Hello everyone,

I have no clue what happened to my RS45 and have looked everywhere and cannot find an answer.

My RS45 is connected through my AV8801 to a PS3. I was starting a calibration with Chromapure one night with a cal'd Eyeone and got through about half way before I decided to turn in.
I had stopped during the RGB highend and RGB lowend (gayscale) adjustments. I was using Cinema with the 6500k color temp setting. All seemed normal.

Came back later the next day to begin again from the start (for more experience and learning this calibration a bit more thoroughly) and used the reset feature on color setting/picture mode to what I had done the night before.

Something went wrong - I noticed now as I set Picture mode to Cinema and 6500k it was horribly blue saturated. Which I know it shouldn't be. Switched to a different picture mode and if anything had 6500k on color temp it was heavy blue.
Last odd thing was if I chose the color temp below at 6000k it was at a more redish saturation which is where it should be. If I went to 7000k it was less red and a little more blue as it should be. However if I set it to 6500k it was so heavy in blue that it nearly beats out 9000k.

First - I have searched just about everywhere trying to find out if there is a full on factory reset for this projector. Is there even such a thing? I can't find one in the manual or online....or just horribly blind and can't massage google just right.

If I go though the cal process and with the Cinema setting and 6500k value with its badly saturated blue - I am eventually pulling the Blue highend down -123 which is just freakin too extreme for a color temp that is supposed to be really close to optimal.

Something has gone wrong and I have no idea how to fix it unless there is some full factory reset or my unit just went TU on one color temp setting.

Thanks for any thoughts on this or having an answer to this odd ball issue.

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post #4491 of 4496 Unread 11-26-2014, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by turbojr74 View Post
Hello everyone,

I noticed now as I set Picture mode to Cinema and 6500k it was horribly blue saturated. Which I know it shouldn't be. Switched to a different picture mode and if anything had 6500k on color temp it was heavy blue.
Last odd thing was if I chose the color temp below at 6000k it was at a more redish saturation which is where it should be. If I went to 7000k it was less red and a little more blue as it should be. However if I set it to 6500k it was so heavy in blue that it nearly beats out 9000k.
I have the exact same problem...I've given up on the 6500K and only use the 7000K.
In my case sometimes I go to check the 6500K and it looks "normal".

I've left there only to come back and see the blue is back at it so I gave up on the 6500K and NEVER use it anymore.

Good luck to you

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post #4492 of 4496 Unread 11-26-2014, 12:44 PM
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Interesting. My picture has taken on a bluish nature to it. Something you might expect with a color temp too high. So I lowered the color temp to 5500 and that didn't seem to change anything. That's different from the comments above. A good example of this problem is when you see a background crowd at a football game. Usually the shade is in a gray/black tone. I'll try moving the color temp down again to see if it makes a difference. Is there any other adjustment that should be made? Perhaps something has to be unlocked in order for the color temp change to take effect.

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post #4493 of 4496 Unread 11-26-2014, 10:46 PM
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I'm hoping someone out there has an answer for us. I'd hate to think this is an issue for many and the answer is to work around it..

I looked up firmware for the unit on JVC's website and found an update but the fixes do not reference this issue. However with fingers crossed I updated it to see if it might do a reset or resolve the issue....no luck here unfortunately. The projector retained all of its settings and the issue is still there. It makes no sense why only the 6500k is affected.

If no one else has an answer I'll try and call JVC to see if they have at least heard about it.

Googling this has turned up nothing. I really hope this can be resolved....hate to think $3k wasted, not including the $500+ spent on the calibration equipment/software. I only have 300+ hours on this projector

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post #4494 of 4496 Unread 11-27-2014, 10:48 PM
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Hey guys,

I just upgraded from an old RS1 to the RS45; is there anything quirky about it I should know going in?

Also do I need to open it up and check the bulb type or don't even bother until it starts having problems? (1200 hours but no issues according to seller)

Thanks!
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post #4495 of 4496 Unread 11-28-2014, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojr74 View Post
I'm hoping someone out there has an answer for us. I'd hate to think this is an issue for many and the answer is to work around it..

I looked up firmware for the unit on JVC's website and found an update but the fixes do not reference this issue. However with fingers crossed I updated it to see if it might do a reset or resolve the issue....no luck here unfortunately. The projector retained all of its settings and the issue is still there. It makes no sense why only the 6500k is affected.

If no one else has an answer I'll try and call JVC to see if they have at least heard about it.

Googling this has turned up nothing. I really hope this can be resolved....hate to think $3k wasted, not including the $500+ spent on the calibration equipment/software. I only have 300+ hours on this projector
Does Lamp High vs Normal affect the color any?
Have you tried hooking the projector to a different device (different from whatever source you were using)?
How blue are we talking, are we talking noticeable error to an enthusiast, or are we talking a noticeable error to a normal person with no other display next to it as a reference?


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post #4496 of 4496 Unread 11-28-2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
Does Lamp High vs Normal affect the color any?
Have you tried hooking the projector to a different device (different from whatever source you were using)?
How blue are we talking, are we talking noticeable error to an enthusiast, or are we talking a noticeable error to a normal person with no other display next to it as a reference?
I haven't tried to use lamp high - I can give it a try, but all that I'm reporting has been on Normal.

I have an LG Bluray and it does the same as the PS3.

Before I even started to touch the Color Temp controls(gain/offset) @ 6500k, the color looked just fine (as I hadn't adjusted anything but contrast and brightness).
Like Fatshaft above, I noticed I can get it to go back to a normal color of 6500k by using the JVC presets.
Once I select that I'm going to go with custom (any one of the 3 custom settings) the 6500k is blue saturated. Again nothing adjusted yet.

To answer your question on how blue, any normal person with no reference would think its very blue.
If I went through the color temps, starting at 5500k and then selecting the next of 6000k, etc - it is overly obvious that when you hit 6500k it goes heavy blue. Then the next color temp of 7000k looks like it went back to a more red-ish color.
I've attached a pre-cal pic of what the 6500k was at. You can see blue is through the roof.

Any thoughts? Is there a full hardware reset?
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