Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 159 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4741 of 4761 Old 06-11-2017, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
I must say I find the 3D crosstalk pretty bad on the X30 (have JVC RF glasses and emitter).
Is it much better on newer models?
Ghosting is in a whole different league on the new models. It's not ghost free like a DLP, but it's VERY minimal even on tough material like the Lichtmond discs, Giants of Patagonia, etc......I highly doubt you will have an issue with the crosstalk performance on the new models.

Having said the above, flicker has made ZERO improvement from the original 3d models. If you don't have a problem with flicker on your X30 though, you will be fine with the new models as well. Personally I still much prefer my DLP for 3d that is mostly bright in nature since this is where flicker shows itself. Darker 3d films though are overall superior on the JVCs due to their fantastic contrast performance (and flicker doesn't pop up near as much in the darker films).

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Nice. Might have to pick up one in the CMD issue firesales then - I can't stand any FI solution so it is of no consequence to me if it doesn't work.

I'd probably have to stick an ND filter on the lens though as even my X30 is enough on my tiny screen at -12 aperture (and it has 600hrs or so on lamp).
The broken CMD on the newer models wont cause any sort of resale hit on this forum I am sure since it is dominated largely by purists (although in a recent poll conducted here, ~1/3 of the voters did feel CMD was an important feature to them which I found surprising as I did not think it would be that high ). Since you don't care for CMD, the new models are overall excellent otherwise.

I don't think you would find the new models too bright with the iris cranked down to -15. Even on my 9' wide 2.35 HP 2.8 screen with the iris at -15 on the 520, I wouldn't call the image too bright, but I know brightness is subjective so I cant say for sure how you will feel of course.
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Last edited by Toe; 06-11-2017 at 03:39 PM.
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post #4742 of 4761 Old 06-11-2017, 08:52 PM
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I was in a similar upgrade situation. Had a Mist 3800 DLP for 7 years, served me really well. Thought I had it dialed it pretty good for its capabilities.
I was also running a very small screen (small room)---80" diagonal 16:9 .9 greyscreen, which was intended to match the Mits 3800, which it seemed to.

Was looking at used JVC's and/or B-stock, etc. Only B-stock models were the newish light cannon models, which even with the iris clamped all the way down, would probably still be too bright for my 80" screen. Ultimately I thought they'd be too bright at worst or unnecessary at least--in my set up.

After doing much research, I decided my used JVC target was a RS46 at the low end, but really was shooting for the DI models, RS4910/RS49/X500, budget around $2k. I ended up getting super lucky and snagged a low hr used RS57 (X700) for that target price, and it came with a new in box extra OEM lamp. I think this RS57 was the perfect fit for my small room and small screen. With the manual iris at -12 and DI @ Auto 2, the brightness is about the same as my outgoing Mits 3800 (about 1,000hrs on the Mits Lamp and 600 hrs on the JVC Lamp).

On bright scene, or mixed bright leaning scene content, these PJ's are about the same, perhaps slight edge to the Mits.

Of course blacks are incredible on the RS57 and shadow content is very black with little to no haze compared to the 3800. So no comparison when it comes to blacks here. Interestingly both PJ's have about the same shadow detail performance.

I wrote up a long side by side comparison here> *Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread

And you can read the rest of the page that post was on here> *Unofficial* Mitsubishi HC3800 Thread

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post #4743 of 4761 Old 06-13-2017, 05:43 AM
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Ghosting is in a whole different league on the new models. It's not ghost free like a DLP, but it's VERY minimal even on tough material like the Lichtmond discs, Giants of Patagonia, etc......I highly doubt you will have an issue with the crosstalk performance on the new models.

Having said the above, flicker has made ZERO improvement from the original 3d models. If you don't have a problem with flicker on your X30 though, you will be fine with the new models as well. Personally I still much prefer my DLP for 3d that is mostly bright in nature since this is where flicker shows itself. Darker 3d films though are overall superior on the JVCs due to their fantastic contrast performance (and flicker doesn't pop up near as much in the darker films).
Ghosting bothers me more than flicker. Even my 8 year old comments on it.

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The broken CMD on the newer models wont cause any sort of resale hit on this forum I am sure since it is dominated largely by purists (although in a recent poll conducted here, ~1/3 of the voters did feel CMD was an important feature to them which I found surprising as I did not think it would be that high ). Since you don't care for CMD, the new models are overall excellent otherwise.
If the various threads get enough momentum and enough people start shifting units on it will inevitably have some effect as it isn't a very big 2nd hand market (particularly in the UK where JVC warranty only covers first owner). I'm aware of at least one of these that has come up used in the UK which I am sure is due to this "issue" (as I say, it wouldn't put me off in the slightest!)

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I don't think you would find the new models too bright with the iris cranked down to -15. Even on my 9' wide 2.35 HP 2.8 screen with the iris at -15 on the 520, I wouldn't call the image too bright, but I know brightness is subjective so I cant say for sure how you will feel of course.
For SDR I only want 16FtL / 56cd/m2 - any more is heading towards too bright in a dark room (for my liking). My screen is very small (<6' wide) - in future I might go up to 6.5' wide. (sat only around 7.5' from screen). Gain of 1 from Draper ReAct3 surface.
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post #4744 of 4761 Old 06-13-2017, 05:49 AM
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I keep wanting to go to 120" from a 100" screen but it would most likely put my left speaker too close to the doorway. Rm is 12x12 with the sofa up against the wall. I don't care about 3d so I guess it's easy for me to stick with the 45.

I keep toying with new front three speakers, but I've been nothing but happy with my old M&K S125's.


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post #4745 of 4761 Old 06-13-2017, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Nice. Might have to pick up one in the CMD issue firesales then - I can't stand any FI solution so it is of no consequence to me if it doesn't work.

I'd probably have to stick an ND filter on the lens though as even my X30 is enough on my tiny screen at -12 aperture (and it has 600hrs or so on lamp).
If looking for a deal and not a gamer, then I would look at the RS400, 500 and 600. I currently have a 400 and a 45 in my home. The 400 is definitely the better projector. It is sharper and much brighter and I am comparing an excellent sample RS45 to an average sample RS400, convergence wise.
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post #4746 of 4761 Old 06-13-2017, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bobof View Post
Ghosting bothers me more than flicker. Even my 8 year old comments on it.


If the various threads get enough momentum and enough people start shifting units on it will inevitably have some effect as it isn't a very big 2nd hand market (particularly in the UK where JVC warranty only covers first owner). I'm aware of at least one of these that has come up used in the UK which I am sure is due to this "issue" (as I say, it wouldn't put me off in the slightest!)


For SDR I only want 16FtL / 56cd/m2 - any more is heading towards too bright in a dark room (for my liking). My screen is very small (<6' wide) - in future I might go up to 6.5' wide. (sat only around 7.5' from screen). Gain of 1 from Draper ReAct3 surface.
A 400 or 420 would be too bright, even at -15 on your screen. A 500/600 or 520/620 would work, since they have the dual iris and can be closed down more that the single iris in the 400/420.
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post #4747 of 4761 Old 06-13-2017, 07:05 AM
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A 400 or 420 would be too bright, even at -15 on your screen. A 500/600 or 520/620 would work, since they have the dual iris and can be closed down more that the single iris in the 400/420.
Thanks, I figure that will be the way to go eventually. Lots of other upgrades waiting in the wings before I get that far. Not a gamer at all so lag is of no odds to me. Here in the UK I guess this means X7000 will be the best choice once they come down to a price I can afford. Shame they tend to be black - I like white in my lounge setup.
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post #4748 of 4761 Old 08-26-2017, 01:26 PM
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So, long story short, my RS45 died...double flash on lamp light with warning light on. Tried a replacement lamp with no success. I went ahead and bought a replacement projector, but still looking at repairing the 45 myself if I can figure out the issue.

Reading past posts, I see that the ballast board is the most likely cause. I dismantled the unit today to get to the ballast board and did not find any visible evidence of blown resistors/capacitors as I've seen others report. My electronics testing skills are poor at best, so was hoping the visible inspection would shed light on the cause.

How likely is it the ballast board is the issue even if I don't see any signs of damage? There was a loud pop when I turned the unit on when the error initially occurred. I originally thought this was the bulb popping, but as stated previously, the replacement did not fix the issue and the old bulb was still intact.

Any other components I should be checking with this particular error?

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post #4749 of 4761 Old 08-26-2017, 02:22 PM
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So, long story short, my RS45 died...double flash on lamp light with warning light on. Tried a replacement lamp with no success. I went ahead and bought a replacement projector, but still looking at repairing the 45 myself if I can figure out the issue.

Reading past posts, I see that the ballast board is the most likely cause. I dismantled the unit today to get to the ballast board and did not find any visible evidence of blown resistors/capacitors as I've seen others report. My electronics testing skills are poor at best, so was hoping the visible inspection would shed light on the cause.

How likely is it the ballast board is the issue even if I don't see any signs of damage? There was a loud pop when I turned the unit on when the error initially occurred. I originally thought this was the bulb popping, but as stated previously, the replacement did not fix the issue and the old bulb was still intact.

Any other components I should be checking with this particular error?
Can you send just the board in for testing? Outside of obvious visual signs, I'm useless for testing things out. Audio is one thing, but on a pj.... Not so much. Good luck.

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post #4750 of 4761 Old 08-27-2017, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DigitalJackson View Post
So, long story short, my RS45 died...double flash on lamp light with warning light on. Tried a replacement lamp with no success. I went ahead and bought a replacement projector, but still looking at repairing the 45 myself if I can figure out the issue.

Reading past posts, I see that the ballast board is the most likely cause. I dismantled the unit today to get to the ballast board and did not find any visible evidence of blown resistors/capacitors as I've seen others report. My electronics testing skills are poor at best, so was hoping the visible inspection would shed light on the cause.

How likely is it the ballast board is the issue even if I don't see any signs of damage? There was a loud pop when I turned the unit on when the error initially occurred. I originally thought this was the bulb popping, but as stated previously, the replacement did not fix the issue and the old bulb was still intact.

Any other components I should be checking with this particular error?
Ballast is relatively cheap. I'd buy it and fit it; if it works job done if it doesn't sell the ballast on eBay. I would imagine you'll get close to what you paid for it.

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post #4751 of 4761 Old 08-27-2017, 10:18 AM
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Ballast is relatively cheap. I'd buy it and fit it; if it works job done if it doesn't sell the ballast on eBay. I would imagine you'll get close to what you paid for it.

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Thanks, good suggestion... selling the board on Ebay if not the issue.

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post #4752 of 4761 Old 08-28-2017, 06:40 PM
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Another failure to ignite and flashing light question here. I recently moved 400 miles and now my RS40(I'm posting in both places) won't start. The lights that are showing isn't covered in the manual so I thought I would inquire here. When I hit the power up button the left light turns to green as it should. After 45 sec to a minute both the right and left lights turn to or on to steady red and the middle light flashes orange on-going. It doesn't flash in any sequence. Just keeps flashing at 1 sec intervals.

I tried my backup bulb, which was my previous old but still working, and the result was the same. Anyone have this sequence and figured it out. If you look at the two pages of diagrams in the manual the closest to this sequence is a bulb that has been shaken from movement but it doesn't have a red left light and I would be surprised if both bulbs were broken during the move as they were in separate containers. Any help would be appreciated.

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post #4753 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 10:07 AM
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Any other components I should be checking with this particular error?

I had the usual symptoms,(Orange blinking LED lamp and warning + standby on constant red.) I did not have a new bulb so I ordered one from ebay, in the meantime did I disassemble the whole unit until I got the ballast card out, i couldn't see any specific physical fault, except maybe the LNK363DN - Link Switch, Off Line Switcher, to me it was either covered in lacquer/glue or actually overheated and maybe melted a bit, I still have the part I changed downstairs so IF there is a request for it I'll take a picture of it.

So this part I changed, then put in a new bulb and the unit (x30) is working again.

For now happy!

Last edited by roosterx; 09-15-2017 at 10:13 AM.
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post #4754 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 01:38 PM
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I had the usual symptoms,(Orange blinking LED lamp and warning + standby on constant red.) I did not have a new bulb so I ordered one from ebay, in the meantime did I disassemble the whole unit until I got the ballast card out, i couldn't see any specific physical fault, except maybe the LNK363DN - Link Switch, Off Line Switcher, to me it was either covered in lacquer/glue or actually overheated and maybe melted a bit, I still have the part I changed downstairs so IF there is a request for it I'll take a picture of it.

So this part I changed, then put in a new bulb and the unit (x30) is working again.

For now happy!
My RS40 didn't survive a recent move even though it was wrapped solid in its original box container. My sequence of led flashes didn't match anything in the manual so I'm not sure what is wrong. I took the bulb out and it looked undamaged as did my old bulb that I had as backup. I'm hoping that there is a board that was shaken loose during transit so I think I will try looking at the boards and their mounting. How do I disassemble the projector? Back & bottom screws?

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post #4755 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 02:26 PM
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My RS40 didn't survive a recent move even though it was wrapped solid in its original box container. My sequence of led flashes didn't match anything in the manual so I'm not sure what is wrong. I took the bulb out and it looked undamaged as did my old bulb that I had as backup. I'm hoping that there is a board that was shaken loose during transit so I think I will try looking at the boards and their mounting. How do I disassemble the projector? Back & bottom screws?
Screws come off the bottom band back. The top and sides come off and there are more screws once you get inside to take the metal plate off the top of the projector. The top of the projector is "sealed" with some EMC conductive cloth tape, you can just lift this up and stick it back down when you've been inside.

Please don't take this the wrong way - but if you look at that projector and wonder how to get into it - do you think you're in a great position to take it apart?

With a bit of creative google there is a full service manual for the X3 out there on the inter webs. I found it on an Eastern European website if I recall. It Is basically the same machine(ish).
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post #4756 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 04:53 PM
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Is there a consensus on what the best oem lamp to buy is? The ebay seller discount merchant or? My lamp is at 950 hours and it's gotten too dim for enjoyment.
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post #4757 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 05:35 PM
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Is there a consensus on what the best oem lamp to buy is? The ebay seller discount merchant or? My lamp is at 950 hours and it's gotten too dim for enjoyment.
Just make sure you get a genuine Philips bulb. Discount Merchant sells them, so do a few other sellers.

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post #4758 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 06:15 PM
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Just make sure you get a genuine Philips bulb. Discount Merchant sells them, so do a few other sellers.
Thank you. I'll go with Discount Merchant.
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post #4759 of 4761 Old 09-15-2017, 07:44 PM
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Screws come off the bottom band back. The top and sides come off and there are more screws once you get inside to take the metal plate off the top of the projector. The top of the projector is "sealed" with some EMC conductive cloth tape, you can just lift this up and stick it back down when you've been inside.

Please don't take this the wrong way - but if you look at that projector and wonder how to get into it - do you think you're in a great position to take it apart?

With a bit of creative google there is a full service manual for the X3 out there on the inter webs. I found it on an Eastern European website if I recall. It Is basically the same machine(ish).
I understand what you are saying. I once bought a SharpVision 20000 from a renowned regular on this forum and it turned out to have a bad lens. I was coming off a SharpVision 10000 whose lens was good. I was able to swap the two and save, to a large degree, the 20000. So I have a little experience. Not to say that I can pull this off but if I don't try the RS40 is practically worthless. I am not in the mood for spending $500+ to have it repaired by the right people in order to have a correct 5 year old projector. I can only hope that my problem is a loose part that came undone during the shipment.

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post #4760 of 4761 Old 09-16-2017, 01:13 AM
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I understand what you are saying. I once bought a SharpVision 20000 from a renowned regular on this forum and it turned out to have a bad lens. I was coming off a SharpVision 10000 whose lens was good. I was able to swap the two and save, to a large degree, the 20000. So I have a little experience. Not to say that I can pull this off but if I don't try the RS40 is practically worthless. I am not in the mood for spending $500+ to have it repaired by the right people in order to have a correct 5 year old projector. I can only hope that my problem is a loose part that came undone during the shipment.
Cool, as I say I meant no disrespect. As far as these things go the JVCs are a pretty complicated design with a seemingly unfeasible amount of cables and boards, and the bit that is the most common fail (the ballast) needs a lot of disassembly to get to... getting into it is probably the easiest part of the job. Most of the connectors are pretty secure if I recall from when I last looked in one, so I would have thought for a connector to be loose it would have to have been previously loosened by a repair effort (or perhaps not pushed all the way home in the factory).

The service manual has couple of useful exploded diagrams showing all the interconnections between the boards - I think it was pretty much the top entry in Google from searching for "ivc x3 service manual).
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post #4761 of 4761 Old 10-10-2017, 04:41 PM
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Is anyone using the wide 1 color space?

I've only had my X30 for about 6 months so am still playing with the settings now and then.

I generally like what the wide 1 space does with the color but as you probably know, it does go a bit OTT, esp on the red.

I've reigned in the red in a little and gone to 7000k temp and like the look. When i switch between it and a more standard setting, I prefer the wide 1 setup.

Kind of a poor-mans HDR!

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