Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 118 - AVS Forum
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post #3511 of 3824 Old 08-05-2013, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The low cost 3D DLP's all have 1 thing in common, they can produce 3D with no crosstalk or flicker through the glasses. This is an obstacle for some non-DLP projectors costing much more than the W7000. The caveat is average contrast and in the case of the entire BQ series, you are forced to run DLP Link which can further hurt contrast in 3D. The other caveat is potential RBE depending on the model.

The Sharp 30K 3D DLP addresses a number of the W7000's short-comings. It has a faster color wheel, so there is less perceived RBE in both 2D and 3D. The contrast is better in 2D and especially in 3D since they chose to use IR vs. DLP Link. This model was over-priced when it was new and didn't gain much attention. It did when it was being blown out for only $1799. 3D on this projector is excellent, some of the best I've seen. Sharp appears to have exited the HT projector market.

Other options are some of the Optoma models since they have the option for using the RF glasses from Monster Vision / Optoma.

It will be interesting to see if the W7500 improves with overall contrast. I could do without the 2D -> 3D conversion features.

Yep, I agree. I watch a lot of 3D and it was the lack of crosstalk that really sold me on DLP. I experienced a lot of let-downs in the LCD realm with active 3D. But the 7000 blew me away with DLP in that department. No regrets.

Steven J
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post #3512 of 3824 Old 08-05-2013, 05:56 PM
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For what it's worth (maybe not much), there is an interesting bit at the end about the new DLP chip.

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A//www.projection-homecinema.fr/2013/07/25/benq-w7500-dlp-full-hd-3d-ready-successeur-du-w7000/%0A
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post #3513 of 3824 Old 08-06-2013, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrogeeker View Post

For what it's worth (maybe not much), there is an interesting bit at the end about the new DLP chip.

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A//www.projection-homecinema.fr/2013/07/25/benq-w7500-dlp-full-hd-3d-ready-successeur-du-w7000/%0A


Interesting. I wonder if the use of the Darkchip 3 automatically implies that the W7500 will have triple flash (144Hz).
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post #3514 of 3824 Old 08-06-2013, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mustang84 View Post


Interesting. I wonder if the use of the Darkchip 3 automatically implies that the W7500 will have triple flash (144Hz).

 

If you Google around, there are reports on some German and French web sites that indicate DC3 and triple flash.

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post #3515 of 3824 Old 08-06-2013, 09:19 PM
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Man.....life really sucks sometimes. I'm about 95% done my flooded basement, have had my projectors finally hooked up the last few nights and then.....My hot water heater burst last night while we were sleeping. Flooded my laundry room the adjoining bathroom and mayhaps a bit under my new flooring that I just put down! mad.gif Bathroom now gutted and now requires a rebuild! I don't want to involve the insurance as I just finished a claim with them a couple a months ago! Arggggggg

Anyway, hoping the new W7500 will be worth an upgrade....I really do love the DLP look.
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post #3516 of 3824 Old 08-08-2013, 11:04 AM
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I'm not counting any chickens on the w7500 just yet, because this projector needs a newly designed light path to be competitive at blacks for movies. If you are just going for a 3D projector, then like Zombie said, as long as the new Benq supports RF instead of DLP link, then that's some benefit. Otherwise, stray from DLP link for a 3D projector if you want the best contrast.

This is still a good projector when you compare it to what else is out there, my complaints are MORE about what is out there in the DLP world. Back to the w1070 for a second... The W1070 is out for me, plus it still has DLP Link, so boo boo boo...

Also, it's not all PLUS's for the w1070 over the w7000, not only is the w1070 noisier due to placement issues, but it's not as uniformly sharp as the w7000. The sharpness of the w1070 is about halfway between the Mitsubishi hc4000 / hc8000 and the Benq w7000.

I have not seen the Optoma hd25 yet, but if I can get a refurb later down the road really cheap, I could maybe grab an HD-25 next.

I also re-tested the DYNAMIC IRIS of the w7000 on the dark to light scenes in Tree of Life now that my lamp is DIM enough (this is the best IRIS test in movies I've seen yet), and the problem with the w7000's DI is that it is too weak when it comes to IF ANY even tiny object is getting near 50-95 IRE in the gamma, the IRIS opens up fully and does not help the scene. I'd say the IRIS on the w7000 is only 25% as sensitive as the Epson IRIS, it's really a very mediocre IRIS when it comes to helping blacks, though most of the time you don't see it (but you can sometimes).

The Sony IRIS still blows them all away (even on older Sony's), there are none close that I've seen yet. Only the SONY IRIS really has it right.


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post #3517 of 3824 Old 08-08-2013, 11:23 AM
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Hi,

As we all know the W7000 crushes the blacks, Poor shadow detail.
This is how i solved it.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/projectors/projectors-reviews/benq-w7000-projector/page-4-on-the-bench.html

Change the HDMI setting to PC and feed your projector with a RGB (HDMI) signal.
Now you need to adjust the brightness a little (down).
Best to use a calibration disk, WTW and BTB will be visual.
Enjoy.
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post #3518 of 3824 Old 08-08-2013, 11:31 AM
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I do use a calibration disk (AVS REc 709), with a Spectracal C6. The problem isn't a WTW and BTB issue, it's low native on/off which cannot be helped by setting the peak white (contrast) and black floor (brightness) controls ONCE you have already set them correctly (which I did). This is not an issue with a mismatched RGB 0 to YCbCr 16 conversion. I also messed with the GAMMA calibration of course, I even measured the native on/off. This projector has a tough time with dark scenes any how you slice it.

I have multiple sources on an HDMI matrix switch, so I can pass any multiple number of native signals so no RGB conversions to YbCBr, or Black Level 16 vs. 0, or WTW/BTW is never a problem for me on any projector when doing testing.

Poor shadow detail is usually a GAMMA problem, at least AFTER you correctly set the Brightness / black floor control (everyone should do this), then it does not usually matter anymore on modern devices if there is a 0 to 16 conversion on the black floor, well it can mess up the gamma or cause dithering on some projectors, but AS LONG as you re-calibrate the gamma after doing the brightness control, it's rare to still have mismatched signal black floor issues cause a problem. Reviewers are mentioning it because it was a problem with the way the PRESET interpreted the GAMMA and Black Floor (brightness control), meaning they could have just as easily re-calibrated, but of course to play it SAFE you don't want to convert back and forth. So never do a conversion unless you have to (always make sure it is 1:1 RGB to RGB, or 1:1 YCbCr to YCbCr modes on the projector and the source), otherwise you could get extra dithering in some cases due to misconversions (but again rare on modern devices). I think most people that have this issue are experiencing it only because they are going between different sources which have RGB and YCbCr on different inputs without compensating the black level control and GAMMA calibration to different presets, or they are accidentally converting the signals more than once due to extra devices in their chain.

BTB doesn't matter anyways, there is nothing encoded that actually works in BTB (which is why if you set the brightness control correctly, the 0 to 16 mismatch in most cases is nullified anyhow). As far as WTW, well you will only lose a VERY small amount of upper gradients between the 235 - 255 range if I recall, and this is not visible by eye except maybe in a cloud or two if you are doing an A/B. Of course what matters most is that your brightness and contrast controls are set correctly, and your gamma curve is decently calibrated.

Cheers...


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post #3519 of 3824 Old 08-08-2013, 10:28 PM
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Coderguy, I took the projector back, and the store confirmed that it was junk. Unless of course they don't know anything about projectors. Now two weeks later, my 3rd W7000 (first one destroyed in flood) is displaying black lines all over the picture. It even displays them on the Benq Symbol when the machine first lights up without any video cables connected. Do you have any advice for this problem? It can't be blamed on bad hdmi cables or switches. Best guess is it is something to with the dlp chip or color wheel as the lines fade in out. I thought I had gotten rid of them by playing with the lense shift, but they are back. My first w7000 was great except for the dynamic black that darkened the whole screen and was built in December 2012, and these two machines were built in October 2012. Just really frustrated and have spent over 4 grand on 3 machines and very little satisfaction. But I guess I am stuck with the w7000 until the store or Benq gives up sending me new units. Hope I can finally enjoy my home theater at some point.
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post #3520 of 3824 Old 08-08-2013, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I do use a calibration disk (AVS REc 709), with a Spectracal C6. The problem isn't a WTW and BTB issue, it's low native on/off which cannot be helped by setting the peak white (contrast) and black floor (brightness) controls ONCE you have already set them correctly (which I did). This is not an issue with a mismatched RGB 0 to YCbCr 16 conversion. I also messed with the GAMMA calibration of course, I even measured the native on/off. This projector has a tough time with dark scenes any how you slice it.

I have multiple sources on an HDMI matrix switch, so I can pass any multiple number of native signals so no RGB conversions to YbCBr, or Black Level 16 vs. 0, or WTW/BTW is never a problem for me on any projector when doing testing.

Poor shadow detail is usually a GAMMA problem, at least AFTER you correctly set the Brightness / black floor control (everyone should do this), then it does not usually matter anymore on modern devices if there is a 0 to 16 conversion on the black floor, well it can mess up the gamma or cause dithering on some projectors, but AS LONG as you re-calibrate the gamma after doing the brightness control, it's rare to still have mismatched signal black floor issues cause a problem. Reviewers are mentioning it because it was a problem with the way the PRESET interpreted the GAMMA and Black Floor (brightness control), meaning they could have just as easily re-calibrated, but of course to play it SAFE you don't want to convert back and forth. So never do a conversion unless you have to (always make sure it is 1:1 RGB to RGB, or 1:1 YCbCr to YCbCr modes on the projector and the source), otherwise you could get extra dithering in some cases due to misconversions (but again rare on modern devices). I think most people that have this issue are experiencing it only because they are going between different sources which have RGB and YCbCr on different inputs without compensating the black level control and GAMMA calibration to different presets, or they are accidentally converting the signals more than once due to extra devices in their chain.

BTB doesn't matter anyways, there is nothing encoded that actually works in BTB (which is why if you set the brightness control correctly, the 0 to 16 mismatch in most cases is nullified anyhow). As far as WTW, well you will only lose a VERY small amount of upper gradients between the 235 - 255 range if I recall, and this is not visible by eye except maybe in a cloud or two if you are doing an A/B. Of course what matters most is that your brightness and contrast controls are set correctly, and your gamma curve is decently calibrated.

Cheers...

I gues you are right, theoretical, but just try it, the difference is huge.
When the settings for HDMI are changed from "Auto" to "PC" and the projector is fed with RGB The bars below 16 (AVS Rec 709) light up, I could never see them when my projector was on Auto and fed with YCbCr.
I adjusted the brightness so that only the bars higher then 16 light up.
Now when I watch a movie with a lot of dark scenes the shadow detail is much improved.

Cheers
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post #3521 of 3824 Old 08-09-2013, 12:29 AM
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This all depends on your output settings, if movies are now looking better in only RGB, well you are talking about a PC which is passing RGB natively sounds like. If you are talking about a Bluray player passing RGB, then that's an issue with the player's interaction with the range of the projector interpreting it. I don't have any of these issues but I don't think I am using AUTO anyhow (don't recall), trust me I know when these issues exist, you can tell easily.

My complaint about the Benq is the native on/off, this has been measured by plenty of people, it is one of the most overly bright black floors of any modern projector going back to 2005, so I'm not imagining it.


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post #3522 of 3824 Old 08-09-2013, 04:24 AM
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Coderguy, do you have any advice for my post above. I am at my last witts with this projector. I have never had so much grief with electronics like the past couple of years. Thanks in advance.

Edit........ I just turned on the projector this morning and cannot find any vertical lines on the screen like I described in the post above:eek:. I am beyond confused at this point.
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post #3523 of 3824 Old 08-09-2013, 07:53 AM
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The bad lines on bootup, well that definitely sounds like a hardware problem to me. I would RMA the projector in your case.

It being intermittent might indicate a bad cap or resistor or something electrical related I guess, since some defective DLP's have had similar problems in the past and it turned out to be defective circuitry.


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post #3524 of 3824 Old 08-09-2013, 09:41 AM
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What does Benq usually do if someone has a problem/defective projector? Do they fix it, replace with refurb, replace with a new unit or what? How is the turn around usually?
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post #3525 of 3824 Old 08-09-2013, 10:21 AM
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AFIK, it's often replaced with a refurb. Though in some cases they may repair it as well, depends what you report the problem to be.


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post #3526 of 3824 Old 08-09-2013, 02:51 PM
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Coderguy, thanks for the reply. Since there is 1 year parts and labor I will probably just monitor this machine closely and if it gets worse I will follow through with contacting Benq.
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post #3527 of 3824 Old 08-10-2013, 11:34 AM
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All in perspective from the non-calibrating wing of the Benq W7000 owners. Coderguy right in previous post; many sending this unit back when can just reset DI in service menu or do total reset. Sadly zaytser should have done for first unit so agree if now has reset on black lines, just see how it goes under the warranty. Do think anyone thinking of buying in 6 months should wait on W7500 release. Could consider Sharp Z30000 with price crash as few problems from their owners thread. Motorized lens, faster wheel and slightly better 3d and darker 2d, but lower output lamp and not full color management system (CMS). Shame if zombie correct and out of PJ home market. As for Epson 5020, great darks for scifi movies, but thread has massive returns for panel alignment issues and ones here complain about the dust blobs. JVC great native and darks, but 3d still among worst and expensive and low power. Sony seems best compromise, but also more expensive. As for Benq W7000 if look at projectorreviews.com pics can see the strength - sharpness and those pics are before the current software hdmi sharpness correction which improved it. Also great depth in the 2d viewing. And a lot of brightness which is great for sports, TV and animated films. Also 3D very good, but I still watch much more 2D and like 2D lot of variation in 3D production quality. The weakness is clearly the darkness, most obvious in scifi movies. I use cinema, lowest power setting, and low lamp setting to get as dark as possible. Have adjusted gamma which will help with shadow detail. DI does help, but not huge as coderguy says. I sit next to projector and with sound do not notice the DI whine. Did just alter DI low to 7, then 6 in service menu. Did not reset DI and saw difference. Is darker but a bit of a crush at 6 so will adjust gamma or go back to 7. Will have to try raising max over 80 and check contrast. Have been wary to change too much in service menu as coderguy has warned about 'bricking' the projector. Don't know much about the whole RGB, etc. Interesting, though, as did play with my Sony flagship bluray player due to noticing some color issues and these were detected in home theater review which has been corrected in firmware update. One thing I am surprised noone tries is higher end hdmi cables. Using the silver coated premium Pangea from audioadvisor and definitely sharper, darker blacks and whiter whites so better contrast and more vivid colors (though I think pushes red a bit much). That place is 30 day trial. Will say though more obvious for bluray and Directtv movies and commercials than news or sports, but still worth extra money. As for Benq W1070, considered a game changer at its 1000 dollar price point, but pics at projectorreviews show W7000 more refined picture with better blacks, as expected for more money. All in all, the W7000 is a good projector, whether do more detailed calibration as coderguy and others do or just eye it like the non-calibrating wing. It does have its strengths (sharpness, brightness, depth and 3d) and weaknesses (darkness, quirky DI and overall contrast). Now at about 1700 hours.
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post #3528 of 3824 Old 08-10-2013, 05:09 PM
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New w7000 owner here with a couple questions:

1) My source is a pc, connecting dvi->hdmi. 1080p from out of the pc is being slightly shrunk (like it's scaled down) and therefore slightly blurred as well. The picure only fills about 95% of the size of the projector's test image. I'm on 0 overscan/zoom and "real" mode. Is this a settings issue, or compatibility issue?

2) When I was researching, I saw reference to a custom setting to reduce light output, but I can't for the life of me find instructions for how to do it.

3) I've seen references to firmware issues, and was hoping they would be resolved by now, but my firmware reads as 1.00. Is this up to date?

I have to admit, after 1 day with this thing I already have a ton of eye strain. I don't know if it's the picture scaling issue or if it's too bright (i'm shooting ~11 feet to about a 90'' screen) or if I'm sensitive to DLP. My first pj was DLP, but I'm currently coming from a Sanyo LCD projector that gave me no trouble.
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post #3529 of 3824 Old 08-10-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenc View Post

New w7000 owner here with a couple questions:

1) My source is a pc, connecting dvi->hdmi. 1080p from out of the pc is being slightly shrunk (like it's scaled down) and therefore slightly blurred as well. The picure only fills about 95% of the size of the projector's test image. I'm on 0 overscan/zoom and "real" mode. Is this a settings issue, or compatibility issue?

2) When I was researching, I saw reference to a custom setting to reduce light output, but I can't for the life of me find instructions for how to do it.

3) I've seen references to firmware issues, and was hoping they would be resolved by now, but my firmware reads as 1.00. Is this up to date?

I have to admit, after 1 day with this thing I already have a ton of eye strain. I don't know if it's the picture scaling issue or if it's too bright (i'm shooting ~11 feet to about a 90'' screen) or if I'm sensitive to DLP. My first pj was DLP, but I'm currently coming from a Sanyo LCD projector that gave me no trouble.

90" screen is WAY WAY too bright for this projector and eye strain is expected at that brightness (see # 2 for fix).

1) Though this suggestion probably won't help since it doesn't technically fix resolution/scaling issues, find the setting called AUTO in the Benq menu and see if setting it to RGB has any effect. Other than that, go into your video card's control panel and locate the SCALER settings and try different settings (there is usually a setting like, allow Video Card to scale). Mess with the video card's scaling settings until you get native resolution looking correctly. Most likely the problem is in your video card's control panel somewhere. I've seen some laptop video cards refuse to work with projectors properly, but I assume you're not using a laptop, cause sometimes you have to edit low level driver config files or install different drivers (only as a last resort).

2) To reduce light output, you need to go into the service menu. Use the remote to go into the regular menu first, then while highlighted over the regular Benq information menu (must be on informaton tab), then push up-down-up-down-up-down enter (doesn't need to be pushed fast). Now from within the Service Menu, go over to the 2nd from the last menu on the left (Tab #8) and you'll see an IRIS setting called MIN APERTURE, first turn off Dynamic Black and then set MIN APERTURE to 6 or so. Now exit the service menu. If you change modes on the Benq (like certain settings), sometimes the IRIS setting gets RESET, in that case repeat this steps to reset it again. Also make sure your LAMP is in ECONOMIC MODE and NOT normal mode, because that increases brightness as well.

3) I am not sure but I believe the newer Benq w7000's, which are often referred to as Benq w7000+ have the firmware reported as 1.00 even though it's the latest. Double check your build date and if you have a w7000+ or a regular w7000.


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post #3530 of 3824 Old 08-10-2013, 09:35 PM
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Thanks to coderguy for the help.

Indeed my ATI drivers were adding random underscan in the display settings. The fix was to go to catalyst control center:

My Digital Flat-Panels -> Scaling Options -> move the slider
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post #3531 of 3824 Old 08-11-2013, 02:31 PM
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Wisscheese I couldn't reset my machine in the service menu because the menu would not come up on the screen. None of the buttons on the remote nor the projector would display anything. All I had was a dark grey blank screen. Only the power button on the remote would turn it off. Now my second W7000 with only 24 hours use display thin vertical black lines that resemble something from the movie the Matrix. They come and go and aren't really noticeable. However I continue to monitor the unit and if it gets worse contact Benq, and go through the warranty motions. I am also researching all other projector brands and may just buy something right away to replace this unit as I don't want to wait a month for a refurb. I am not trying to sound like a whiner, but I have owned several entry level projectors that obviously have better standards or quality control when being manufactured. I just really wanted a bright sharp dlp that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Perhaps I should have just bought a W6000?
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post #3532 of 3824 Old 08-11-2013, 09:15 PM
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Two fold post here a bit. One, posting calibration settings to help anyone out at all. Derived from WOW disc, and pulled some numbers from review site (can't remember which one now). And Two, would really like to get projector 'dialed in' for little get together next week, and would appreciate any input any vets have at first glance of color numbers, advice for manual aperture adjustments vs. Dynamic iris, etc. I have Nov. 2012 1.00 version, which I understand is current firmware version.

Settings:

Basic:

Brightness - 53
Contrast - 48
Color - 52
Tint - 50
Sharpness - 0
Fleshtone - 2

Advanced:

Noise Reduction: 0
Detail Enhancement - 1
Temp - Warm
Gamma - 2.2
Red - gain 57, offset 247
Green - gain 45, offset 247
Blue - gain 48, offset 245
Brilliant color - off

Color management:

Red - hue 41, gain 47, saturation 54
Green - h 65, gn 71, sat 65
Blue - h 54, gn 45, sat 49
Cyan - h 28, gn 61, sat 55
Magenta - h 48, gn 44, sat 45
Yellow - h 72, gn, 59, sat 60

Dynamic black - ON

Aspect ratio - Real
Overscan adjustment - 0

Walls are light matte gray, and ceiling is white (WAF!) 106" Cinegrey 1.0 gain screen. Ceiling hits blacks, but not much I can do about that...for now. No other ambient light. Any input for adjustments, blacks...aperture settings in service menu, ND filter, etc??. Thanks for any help, or hope the settings help anyone for a starting point if needed.

benq w7000
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post #3533 of 3824 Old 08-12-2013, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaytser View Post

Wisscheese I couldn't reset my machine in the service menu because the menu would not come up on the screen. None of the buttons on the remote nor the projector would display anything. All I had was a dark grey blank screen. Only the power button on the remote would turn it off. Now my second W7000 with only 24 hours use display thin vertical black lines that resemble something from the movie the Matrix. They come and go and aren't really noticeable. However I continue to monitor the unit and if it gets worse contact Benq, and go through the warranty motions. I am also researching all other projector brands and may just buy something right away to replace this unit as I don't want to wait a month for a refurb. I am not trying to sound like a whiner, but I have owned several entry level projectors that obviously have better standards or quality control when being manufactured. I just really wanted a bright sharp dlp that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Perhaps I should have just bought a W6000?

Sounds like bad luck, I see no real patterns in this thread indicating any serious QC issues with this projector other than the IRIS issue which in most cases can be fixed by the SM, at least no more issues than any others and less than some Epsons. We've all had bad luck before with projectors, you just need to RMA it. I've got 2000 hours on a refurb on mine with no issues, and there are many others in here with similar numbers though maybe a bit less usage.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
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post #3534 of 3824 Old 08-12-2013, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaytser View Post

Wisscheese I couldn't reset my machine in the service menu because the menu would not come up on the screen. None of the buttons on the remote nor the projector would display anything. All I had was a dark grey blank screen. Only the power button on the remote would turn it off. Now my second W7000 with only 24 hours use display thin vertical black lines that resemble something from the movie the Matrix. They come and go and aren't really noticeable. However I continue to monitor the unit and if it gets worse contact Benq, and go through the warranty motions. I am also researching all other projector brands and may just buy something right away to replace this unit as I don't want to wait a month for a refurb. I am not trying to sound like a whiner, but I have owned several entry level projectors that obviously have better standards or quality control when being manufactured. I just really wanted a bright sharp dlp that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Perhaps I should have just bought a W6000?

I first bought a BenQ W6000. Had some form of focus issue. RMA'd it and received a BenQ W7000 but it was ver 1.00 with pixel mapping but. Had to RMA again for a 1.03 version and finally a good copy. But issues can happen even with more expensive projectors from all the years spent on this forum.
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post #3535 of 3824 Old 08-12-2013, 01:27 PM
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Any recommendations on bulb replacement? Should I just get the OEM bulb or the full assembly? Not really clear online what the best option is.

Thanks!
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post #3536 of 3824 Old 08-12-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaytser View Post

Wisscheese I couldn't reset my machine in the service menu because the menu would not come up on the screen. None of the buttons on the remote nor the projector would display anything. All I had was a dark grey blank screen. Only the power button on the remote would turn it off. Now my second W7000 with only 24 hours use display thin vertical black lines that resemble something from the movie the Matrix. They come and go and aren't really noticeable. However I continue to monitor the unit and if it gets worse contact Benq, and go through the warranty motions. I am also researching all other projector brands and may just buy something right away to replace this unit as I don't want to wait a month for a refurb. I am not trying to sound like a whiner, but I have owned several entry level projectors that obviously have better standards or quality control when being manufactured. I just really wanted a bright sharp dlp that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Perhaps I should have just bought a W6000?

Yes, I know what you're saying with the dark screen. I think I was able to get around it to reset DI via service menu. I f you could not, I understand. Based on the threads, I would probably recommend the Sharp Z30000 ($1800 - 2200) which seems to have almost no problems with reliability or go cheaper with Benq 1070 (though clearly you'd be wary of Benq, but it does not have a DI, which has been the major problem.) Sharp is lower powered so either have to run at high setting or use HP screen. (mainly problem for 3d) And if zombie correct they are leaving home pj market so not perfect there either.
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post #3537 of 3824 Old 08-12-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenc View Post

New w7000 owner here with a couple questions:

1) My source is a pc, connecting dvi->hdmi. 1080p from out of the pc is being slightly shrunk (like it's scaled down) and therefore slightly blurred as well. The picure only fills about 95% of the size of the projector's test image. I'm on 0 overscan/zoom and "real" mode. Is this a settings issue, or compatibility issue?

2) When I was researching, I saw reference to a custom setting to reduce light output, but I can't for the life of me find instructions for how to do it.

3) I've seen references to firmware issues, and was hoping they would be resolved by now, but my firmware reads as 1.00. Is this up to date?

I have to admit, after 1 day with this thing I already have a ton of eye strain. I don't know if it's the picture scaling issue or if it's too bright (i'm shooting ~11 feet to about a 90'' screen) or if I'm sensitive to DLP. My first pj was DLP, but I'm currently coming from a Sanyo LCD projector that gave me no trouble.

Skimmed over coderguy responses, also make sure you have cinema mode which is the lowest power. I have similar size screen to you and going cinema and eco mode worked well for me. Bulb will dim some as ages too which will help. But is a bright projector for 90 screen at 11 feet. I might be a little less sensitive than you on the brightness.
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post #3538 of 3824 Old 08-23-2013, 06:55 PM
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I sent you a PM where I got mine and the type. What a difference a new bulb makes wow. Did not realize just how dim it had gotten. I use mine all the time as a regular TV and sometime desktop. But it looks fantastic, I have a ND filter on it for now until it dulls a bit.

James Reid:D
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post #3539 of 3824 Old 08-24-2013, 05:45 AM
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Has anyone compared the W7000+ with the Optoma HD25e or for that matter the Optoma HD83 ?

Would like to establish the difference in terms of 2d & 3D image quality, sharpness and black levels.
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post #3540 of 3824 Old 08-24-2013, 08:46 AM
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I never compared it but I did read all the reviews.

The hd8300 will have better contrast than the w7000 and darker blacks. The hd25 will similarly fall short in contrast and be more comparable to the w7000, but it has no IRIS so the Benq can have darker blacks sometimes. The Benq w7000 is going to likely be the sharpest, with the Optoma hd8300 being about the same sharpness, maybe a tiny bit less (hard to say). The Optoma hd25 will not be as sharp as the BEnq w7000 or the Optoma hd8300.

Overall the Optoma hd8300 will have the best image for movies, as it has quite a bit higher contrast then the Benq, but it is not nearly as bright, especially in 3D to where the brightness is about 70% of the Benq.


Quick and Easy Shelf Mount Method for both one projector or dual stacks

Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
**Current Projector Calculator** -- http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com

Coder's Top Projector Picks of 2012 --http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....

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