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post #361 of 1661 Old 04-05-2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

I'm not certain although indeed these days we're most likely talking subtle differences at best when we talk PQ for projectors within the same class and price range. He did give this the award for not only 3D but for 2D capabilities also. As an example (and I know images on the web taken from someone's camera is not the same as one's native eye on the screen), but looking at these two photos, I definitely prefer the Sharp's:


Benq W1070:





Sharp XV-Z30000:

Cheadels face color is more like the Sharp. Also notice the white tones they're all blue on the Benq. Maybe his camera had a bad day.

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post #362 of 1661 Old 04-05-2013, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

The best most can hope for is to take as many inputs which includes experts subjective opinions and also qualitative digital media into consideration. You'll probably never really know what you're missing unless you compare items side-by-side in your own settings anyway and I think that is what Art has done lately as he explained when finalizing the rating. If I read correctly, both he and Thomas Norton concluded that they would own the Sharp and this is from two people that have seen the gamut of PJs.

For the PJ's I haven't seen, I just go by Zombie's reviews, so far his findings have been almost identical to mine, so far I'm happy using his reviews. The other reviewers have made too many mistakes, I'm done listening to them. Every PJ purchase will depend on what someone is looking for, the Sharp is the only 3D DLP PJ under $2500 with an IRIS that also has lens memory. It will not be bright enough in 3D for some (Zombie took measurements).

There are people that should buy the Sharp, there are people that might like the Benq better, for me I'll stick with the JVC for 2D even with its imperfect color, and use something else for 3D...

Is my JVC better in 2D than all the others, not in every way (not color wise), but it is sharper than every other PJ I've seen on text (if going by ringing) and it has better blacks than the others in its price. It is almost to the point of LCD monitor sharpness levels on text (not quite but VERY close, and my JVC > my Benq DLP on Text, Ripley's believe it or not?).

I think JVC + E-shift is nirvana, I have Rs-45 without e-shift, but will probably upgrade to an RS-55 eventually once they get more reasonably priced. Only question is how common/uncommon is a JVC with convergence as good as mine, I've seen maybe 6 JVC's now, and mine still had the best convergence of the six, though 2 of those should be close enough to not make any difference I would hope (but didn't A/B). If I can find an RS-55 with convergence almost as good as my RS-45, I'm in... That is why I'd rather buy B-stock over used, if I get one with poor convergence I can return it.



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post #363 of 1661 Old 04-05-2013, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It will not be bright enough in 3D for some (Zombie took measurements)

Agreed...it is just asking a lot when testing on a 142" screen a projector that would do well on a 96"-110" screen.

FWIW.... every time I read something about this projector, I get a different viewpoint of its 2D vs. 3D capabilities. The attached review states, "Well, no need to worry, I never felt the need to increase
brightness or contrast. Instead,3D viewing was like a breath of fresh air, very realistic and very convincing". Sharp_EN.pdf 1326k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Sharp_EN.pdf (1.30 MB, 18 views)

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post #364 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 07:55 AM
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imo, Thomas Norton's review is more accurate / objective than the PR's review of the Sharp 30K. He is honest in saying it's a very good projector with 2 caveats. Color space and 3D brightness.

The color space is difficult to tune on this projector due to green being off by a fairly large margin. TN is correct in stating that it can still look pretty good by using the built in controls to tame the colors. Color perfectionists will find that even the lumagen 125 point auto cal cannot reign in the color space with low dE's, but the vast majority of viewers will not notice. it's more important that the greyscale is accurate for most viewers eyes.

3D Lumens - For some reason, most reviews will not post the 3D lumens of the projector. I post 3D lumens in the review thread so that folks can look at the objective number, figure out their screen size and gain and make a decision if that model will be bright enough for them. The active shutter glasses consumes nearly 80% of the light so we need as much light as possible to start with.

If my 142" screen wasn't the 2.8HP, I wouldn't be as enthusiastic as I am about 3D. I want 3D in the HT to be noticeably brighter than the dim presentations we see at the movie theaters. A relatively high lumen 3D projector like the Epson 5020 can blast 1400 3D calibrated lumens on this screen with the full 2.8 gain. That's approximately 4000 lumens. Even after the shutter glasses do their thing, it's still nearly 800 lumens which can make you squint in bright scenes with the glasses on. This is very cool to see 3D this bright.

The Sharp 30K is ~600, Sony HW50 ~800, BenQ W7000 ~1100, Epson 5020 ~1400. These measurements are all with a brand new lamp and a color calibration behind the glasses. This costs lumens depending on factory 3D color settings and severity of tint on the glasses. I watched 'The Art of Flight 3D' last night. This entire movie is white. It's looks odd to watch on the various projectors without the color correction because everything looks bluish/green due to the tint. We have to pull back large gains to bring back in the weak red. When it's done right, the 3D color looks surprisingly convincing.

I like the Sharp overall, I was considering this as a potential replacement for my BQ W7000 since i'd like to see better contrast in 3D for the non-animations I watch. If the 3D lumens were ~1000, it would have been perfect. The contrast overall looks good on the Sharp. it's better than the BQ W7000, but it's also less bright which is the trade off.

The 3D on the Sharp is very good, specifically the contrast. I'm glad they aren't using DLP Link. There's been discussions about DLP link signal harming the 3D contrast since they are messing with the black floor. After the 3D color cal, the 3D content I use for demo purposes looked very good, natural skin tones, etc.



Sharp 30K owners enjoy your new projector. it's easy to get caught up in these technical discussions. We are all lucky to have the PQ of these various models being discussed at such an affordable price. Who would have thought about high quality 1080P 3D projectors for $2,000 5-6 years ago?


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post #365 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 08:09 AM
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" The Sharp is definately the most well-rounded projector in terms of overall performance and currently the best value (my italics) of the three. The Sharp is like the "jack-of-all trades" projector but I won't say "master-of-none" because it clearly masters the handling of motion artifacts. The Sharp is excellent on all 2D content including HDTV sports, movies and blu-ray movies with a clean crisp sharp image and very good color.... the dlp advantage I suppose. I also like the Sharp menu the best and it has many setting options. The Sharp also has electronic zoom & focus, which is a great feature the Sony & Epson do not have. You never have to touch the Sharp projector once mounted. "

I thought I would +1 on dlimatime's Z30000 review.

I finally tackled the tricky install of the Z30000. My trusty Benq PE8720 came down after years of great service. We watched sports and movies last night and I'm very impressed with the picture. My take is that if you watch a lot of HD sports, then this projector will be hard to beat. It's like having a 110 inch plasma.
We watched a few Blu-ray movies and the picture varied with content. Images looked a bit "grainier" than on the Benq, but I have not done any adjustments. It's all "out of the box".
Eco-quiet was plenty bright on our Dalite HP screen. I tried the high bulb setting, but it was almost uncomfortable...
Build quality seems excellent. The motorized controls work well and are similar to the Benq (a MSRP $8k machine in 2005). The overall sharpness is good, but I think the Benq was sharper (probably lens quality).
I have not seen the new Sony or Epson offerings, but in these economic times, it's hard to believe that they could be a better "bang for the buck" than the Sharp at <$2k.
I'm looking forward to trying 3D and will post back when I have experimented with it.

If anyone has questions, then I'll be happy to help.
I appreciate everyone's feedback and support. I'm hoping that the Sharp Z30000 bridges the gap to the next (4K) paradigm and improved economic conditions for all...
Thanks.



















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post #366 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 08:57 AM
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BenQ W1070 and Sharp 30K; Chromapure auto-calibration with no subsequent tweaking. Same frame, the camera was in a different spot for each setting.

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post #367 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 12:05 PM
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"The active shutter glasses consumes nearly 80% of the light so we need as much light as possible to start with."

I just tested light differences for the Z17000 3D setup which is. 39ft-candles vs 16ft-candles through the glasses. My screen size is 106" diag which makes it 1325 lumens. 3D lumens glasses on will be 528 lumens. Certainly not an 80% loss of light. 80% light loss would be like 260lumens. Who ever gave you that light loss number is way off.

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post #368 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 01:43 PM
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it's not an absolute, different glasses / projector combos can block a significant amount of light.

What did you measure on the Sharp 30K? The Sharp 30K and 17K have little, if anything in common besides the name on the label. I'm not sure why you keep comparing these 2 models as though they were similar.

The Sharp 30K puts out 600 calibrated 3D lumens with a new lamp. This has to be taken into consideration when choosing a screen to match to this lumen output.

http://www.hometheater.com/content/sharp-xv-z30000-3d-dlp-video-projector-page-2

Sharp claims this projector produces a bright, punchy 3D image, and in a relative sense that’s true. But also true is the fact that there is a dramatic loss of brightness from 2D levels, even in the Dynamic Picture Mode. In that respect, the XV-Z30000 is little different from most 3D displays we’ve tested.


The 5020 appears noticeably brighter than the Sharp 30k in a direct A/B comparison.


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post #369 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 01:49 PM
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A bit off-topic...
Just found out AVS will almost definitely not be getting B-Stock RS-55's or RS-65's in, so sad.
Maybe I'll look at a B-Stock RS-48/4810 (if they ever get those in). I should have gone with the RS-55 when I went new last year, but I didn't think it would be that much better (but IMHO the color is also better on the RS-55 I saw than my Rs-45, not hugely but a bit).

On-topic.
I use 70% as the number to lower from the glasses, why?
Well because some PJ's / Glasses combo's lose 80%, but some only lose 65% to 70%, the average loss is something like 70% to 75%, so if you just use that as the loss you're pretty safe either way because you won't be that far off regardless of which glasses/PJ, since 10% difference isn't that huge to our eyes anyhow.



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post #370 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 03:37 PM
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Projector central agrees with my measurement. 50% less light because of the glasses. They say it I measured it. About the two Sharps I personally know the company that makes the projectors. They don't start all over once they have a platform that works, it's not cost effective. They're both the same platform, just added power zoom and centered the lens with a lens shift. Lumens ratings the same, lamp is the same, colorwheel and chip are the same. You should find most reviewers will get similar results. I think mine measured 570.1 ansi which is the good number. lets see what others get for the z30000.

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post #371 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 03:52 PM
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Both PJC and Art @ PR got sub-1300 lumens on the z17000 even in brightest mode (ex. by PJC: our test sample measured 1236 lumens in Dynamic, its brightest mode), and sub-700 calibrated lumens in best modes.
Only a 50% loss from glasses would be unheard of, you measured 60%, that is rare but anything is possible. Best I saw measured by anyone on ANY PJ/Glasses combo was around 65% loss if I recall correctly.



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post #372 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post


Color perfectionists will find that even the lumagen 125 point auto cal cannot reign in the color space with low dE's, but the vast majority of viewers will not notice. it's more important that the greyscale is accurate for most viewers eyes.

This completely depends how far off we are talking, this is really only true some of the time caused by many devices having fairly ballpark gamuts but farther off gray-scale. For instance, if you change the hue of a color enough (like making red look purple), the image will be severely affected. What makes it more complex is that our eyes see errors in a complex combination (gamut + gray-scale errors + at different sat points). It's therefore very hard with just theory to isolate what the eye will see in every combination. So like take my RS-45, we have a blue luminance error and some other minor gamut issues at 75%, but we have some larger gamut issues at different sat points, they just combine. You can get the gray-scale perfect, but unless you do a tricky non-standard calibration off a wider gamut, you'll have trouble getting all the yellow tint out of skin tones are certain IRE's. Then as the lamp has aged on mine, I have to pick a slightly off-calibration for slightly brighter image just because I prefer it with an older lamp. This might not apply to everyone equally (different lamp aging, different calibrations, different samples), but point being that most people will have more difficulty trying to get the JVC color clean (and maybe the sharp) than some others. though as you said many would not notice.



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post #373 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 06:12 PM
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I'll run a full saturation tracking so you can see what it looks like.

regarding lumen output in 3D...we're talking in circles here. On the 17k, post the 3D lumen output of a 100% ire screen when in 3D frame packed mode. Maximum brightness mode and a close D65 calibration through the glasses.

Knowing the manufacturer or the specs doesn't really answer the above question. Does the 17K have a fairly large dE on green @ 100% saturation?


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post #374 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 06:18 PM
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Yah, the sat tracking would be cool. As far as determining by number combinations what the eye will see, well I'm far from the expert that some long-time calibrators can do it. Even then, I think some "experts" end up being wrong, and I say that with all graciousness because it gets very complex to determine these things. We are talking complex three-dimensional navier-stokes like theories and multivariate relationships. That said, we can simplify and estimate that this should look worse than that, but we'd still have to go by your manual viewing of all the different PJ's as to how off the color looks. Hence, I don't trust the numbers because there are too many multivariate factors, unless something is just exceedingly farther off than another. However, even then it is complicated. For instance, I know having too much blue or overly luminated blue by itself is not that visible compared to say too much green or red, but the problem is when you get X amount of Green + X Blue, etc... There are so many dizzying combinations that is just hard to say, that's why seeing it by eye STILL matters beyond what just the meter says, unless you are truly an absolute pro that does this all day for a living. You are getting there though, if you keep calibrating you might be able to tell us just by the numbers without even looking at the image, but I think that takes a few years of practice and memorization.

All the above said, most of us have agreed the Sony and Benq probably takes the win on color for post-calibration accuracy (and the cheaper Benq w1070 maybe for pre-calibration accuracy). The JVC, Sharp, and Panasonics are somewhere down the line, and I think the Epson would probably be halfway between the Sony/Benq and JVC/Sharp/Panny if I had to guess from me having played around with an Epson 5010. The 5010 still has some sat issues as well, but the color is more accurate than the JVC, especially given that the CMS and gamma is easier to deal with.



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post #375 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 07:34 PM
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No no you don't calibrate the Dynamic mode for 3D which I use, or whatever the brightest mode for the Z30000 is, the glasses compensate and balance the color and images look fine. This I got from my engineer buddy at Core tronics. You don't want to tune down 3D. My numbers stand for my projector. 1325lumens in 3D. 2D tuned down to D65k 2.2 is another story and you don't need all that brightness there, but it's plenty.

Hey anybody using that depth feature? I found zero spot to be best, when I raised I went cross eyed.

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post #376 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 08:34 PM
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P4060012.JPG 690k .JPG file

There's a picture off TV actually lowly 720p Fox. Gives you an idea of the color after using colorfacts. Sharps look pretty nice.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P4060012.JPG (690.4 KB, 45 views)

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post #377 of 1661 Old 04-06-2013, 11:13 PM
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It looks a little noisey. Is that from your camera or is there that much image noise present in the projected image?

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post #378 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The unique color controls on this model will present a challenge even to experienced calibrators. I am currently going through all of the built in settings to see which one is closest to D65/R709. The biggest issue is the over-saturated primaries. Green and Red are off by a good bit and need to be tamed in most of the built in color modes I've tested so far.

The gamma also needs a good bit of adjusting with the out of the box settings. I'll post some recommended changes once I spend more time with it this weekend.

Now that i have the Z30000 installed , I'm wondering about optimum set up.
Zombie was going to post his "settings", but the thread went off on another direction.
Art at PR has some settings in his review. Now that there are a number of them out there, can people share their settings for optimum 2D movies and sports?
Thanks

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post #379 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Now that i have the Z30000 installed , I'm wondering about optimum set up.
Zombie was going to post his "settings", but the thread went off on another direction.
Art at PR has some settings in his review. Now that there are a number of them out there, can people share their settings for optimum 2D movies and sports?
Thanks

smile.gif

Sharing setting for a lamp based display is even more useless than with flat panels. Get a consumer calibrations disk and set the basics in your own environment, if you are looking for accuracy then you will need to either buy the equipment and learn what to do, or hire someone to do a proper calibration. Buying and learning is the route I chose since all lamp based displays will need to be tweaked every 500 hours or so.. If you in the Philadelphia area, PM me if you would like your display properly calibrated at an Enthusiast price..

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post #380 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 10:43 AM
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certain projectors have default settings that aren't too far off D65/R709 out of the box. the HW50 is a good example. It still needs a calibration, but some factory settings can get you pretty close.

For the Sharp 30k, I would definitely recommend a calibration if possible. When a reviewer posts settings, they should be used mainly to see how far off that specific copy performs against baseline. Lamp performance can vary widely between copies of the same model.


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post #381 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

certain projectors have default settings that aren't too far off D65/R709 out of the box. the HW50 is a good example. It still needs a calibration, but some factory settings can get you pretty close.

For the Sharp 30k, I would definitely recommend a calibration if possible. When a reviewer posts settings, they should be used mainly to see how far off that specific copy performs against baseline. Lamp performance can vary widely between copies of the same model.

As I mentioned earlier, at one point you were going to post your settings...

I agree that it's all relative, but there does seem to be some consensus on the directions to take. If several people have similar numbers than it does give a good starting place.
Thanks.
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post #382 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 01:48 PM
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Sharing settings gets you no where. It'd be pure luck to get a better picture by plugging someone else's settings in. Setting the bias and gain settings incorrectly by even just 1 or 2 will give you horrible results and like I said, for your projector to have the same settings needed would be pure coincidence.There is a reason why no one posts settings and the numbers posted on a few sites have a disclaimer that they probably won't be very accurate.

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post #383 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 03:38 PM
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Don't spoil the fun posting or asking for settings has been around AVS since day one. We haven't become robots have we? smile.gif

Try--

contrast +3
bright minus 2
Color +1
tint minus 1
No detail or sharpness added
gamma minus 1

Red- slider 0
Blue slider minus 5

If it doesn't look good you know what to do, hit the reset settings button.

You could confirm the brightness and contrast settings with any lucas THX disc, Star Wars movies.

This would just be for 2D, for 3D find the brightest picture mode choice and leave it. On mine it's Dynamic, on your z30000 I think it's a different choice Art would hv mentioned it.

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post #384 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

Don't spoil the fun posting or asking for settings has been around AVS since day one. We haven't become robots have we? smile.gif

Try--

contrast +3
bright minus 2
Color +1
tint minus 1
No detail or sharpness added
gamma minus 1

Red- slider 0
Blue slider minus 5

If it doesn't look good you know what to do, hit the reset settings button.

You could confirm the brightness and contrast settings with any lucas THX disc, Star Wars movies.

This would just be for 2D, for 3D find the brightest picture mode choice and leave it. On mine it's Dynamic, on your z30000 I think it's a different choice Art would hv mentioned it.

Thanks Tom,
I'll give it a try.
Anyone else want to share?
smile.gif
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post #385 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 07:44 PM
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sharing "comparison pics are useless", sharing "settings are useless". What's up with all this diatribe when someone posts comparison pics or ask for settings? They do so to convey a point or to get an idea for their purposes, not to be chastise or feel that they will be in doing so. Look, take for example the SP-7210 (and I believe the Sp-4805 before that) there are fixed settings EVERYONE needed to use for the digital input. It was widely known and got the PJ to the acceptable point for one to start tweaking. Tom is right, posting and asking for settings [and pics] has been around here from Day 1. We all know what the limitations are, I don't believe anyone here is a green newbie and if so they should be reading a sticky FAQ with that disclaimer.

humbland...I don't have this PJ as yet, however in regards to 3D mode I attached a review a few posts back by Eddie Dufour where he states:
Quote:
The depth of the 3D effect is very realistic and very
impressive. It is possible to play with the level 3D depth
while watching and increase or decrease its effect. Well,
my advice, don’t change anything, because it rapidly becomes
hard on the eyes, almost to the point of dizziness,
causing eyestrain and headaches and, more importantly,
losing the natural 3D effect
. Everything begins to mix and
you just want to remove the glasses. The reference mode
is the best, trust me
.

Peace.

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post #386 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Thanks Tom,
I'll give it a try.
Anyone else want to share?
smile.gif

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration/0_100
follow the instructions to download, burn and use the avs 709 disk to set your user settings and forget using others..
Contrast 1
Brightness -1
color 0
tint 0
sharpness 0
gamma 1
just makin stuff up as it should be just as close as someone else''s calibrated unit.. eek.gifbiggrin.gif;)

Doug

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post #387 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

It looks a little noisey. Is that from your camera or is there that much image noise present in the projected image?

It looks pretty smooth on my computer monitor but it is Fox 720p and I just held the camera for the picture. But I'm pretty cool handed don't shake very much. Focus in on the colors tones of the picture. People are concerned about the CIE hurting colors. Not on these projectors things look really great.

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post #388 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration/0_100
follow the instructions to download, burn and use the avs 709 disk to set your user settings and forget using others..
Contrast 1
Brightness -1
color 0
tint 0
sharpness 0
gamma 1
just makin stuff up as it should be just as close as someone else''s calibrated unit.. eek.gifbiggrin.gif;)

Gamma minus one got me to 2.2 reference gamma zero was like 2.7. I'd take a look at the lower gamma choice.

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post #389 of 1661 Old 04-07-2013, 11:45 PM
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I received my unit 10 days ago. I hesitated to post this, but here goes. I've been studying the PJ market for a 1,5 year and my priorities were: good sharpness, good motion resolution, low input lag, decent contrast. My choice narrowed down to 2 projectors (topic). But as I was looking for a universal projector and wanted to experience crosstalk-free 3D I pulled the trigger on Sharp XV-Z30000. My background is this. I came from Panasonic GT20 plasma, then I found an almost mint condition 24" CRT monitor - Sony GDM-FW900. I found the picture quality superior to everything I've seen before. So I got rid of the TV and began preparing for a projector.

So it arrived and when I first turned it on on a cheapo 84" screen I was thrilled to see such a large picture at my place. But my joy wasn't long. I immediately found out that the input lag on this projector was very large. I measure it against my CRT and in was 59-71 ms (I will post pictures later). Tried playing a game but it was a torture to play with such high input lag. Okay, maybe I was going to live with that.

Next, the colors. I noticed right away that they were wrong, very wrong. Green was yellowish (or salad-ish) and over-saturated. Red was off by a large amount too. But it wasn't until I've spent 5 hours calibrating this PJ until I completely lost faith in it. Here's the best result I could get. I was able to get correct green and blue luminances, but red was very dim and lifeless:
White 21.696 ftL
Red 2.650 ftL (Rec.709 standard = 21% of white luminance = 4.55616)
Green 15.404 (Rec.709 standard = 71% of white luminance = 15.40416)
Blue 1.73568 (Rec.709 standard = 8% of white luminance = 1.735)

Huge disappointment. I wasn't aware that colors would be so important to me. But gotten used to the image on my CRT I just couldn't let that pass. This projector is too off from Rec.709 standard. Why would they use such horrid controls? What were they thinking?

Then motion resolution I was so looking forward to. Zombie was correct, it has only ~400 lines. Same as BenQ W7000 and Mitsubishi HC9000 I saw in the shop. So I'm beginning to doubt if there's really a DLP capable of 1080 lines of resolution.

Then my unit had some uniformity issues. On high contrast iris mode only left and right side of the image were red-tinted. And the very bottom of the screen had some green tinge. I didn't bother taking the pictures.

But there were some goods with the Sharp. Some of them are:
- excellent RBE performance (a non-issue with this projector);
- no cross-talk in 3D;
- plenty bright for 3D on my 1 gain 84" screen;
- decent sharpness;
- decent ANSI contrast;
- good shadow detail;
- very quiet in Eco mode;
- motorized lens shift, zoom, focus;
- that's about it.

Ah, yes, the dynamic iris. It wasn't such a big deal. It only worked on very low APL scenes. The improvement in black levels are only so-so. It is very discreet as has been reviewed. But I still managed to find one big flaw: if there were some bright objects (like torches in a cave) these objects became very dim and white details on that objects were crushed. On scenes like that I'd prefer the DI to be turned off.

I am very lucky I sold my unit so fast and now I'm going for Mitsubishi HC5.
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post #390 of 1661 Old 04-08-2013, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Sharing setting for a lamp based display is even more useless than with flat panels. Get a consumer calibrations disk and set the basics in your own environment, if you are looking for accuracy then you will need to either buy the equipment and learn what to do, or hire someone to do a proper calibration. Buying and learning is the route I chose since all lamp based displays will need to be tweaked every 500 hours or so.. If you in the Philadelphia area, PM me if you would like your display properly calibrated at an Enthusiast price..

Pro calibration is just not practical for us. We live in a pretty rural area. In any case, I get it that the Z30000 is "color challenged".
I'm just trying to get "in the ballpark" settings. From my way of looking at it, it's really not a projector for people who are anal about "perfect" parameters.
Everything represents some sort of compromise. As Zombie (and Art at PR) have said, it's an amazing device for less than $2k.
For me, I needed motorized lens controls/memory, and I like DLP sharpness. State of the art blacks and perfect color are not that important.
The bottom line is I feel lucky to find something at this price point.
Back in 2006, Art at PR had the Benq PE8720 in his home theater. At the time it helped me choose that one...After years of service, Art thought that the Z30000 was good enough for him, that's how I decided to go with it.
Where we live, auditioning the choices is not practical, so staying on top of changes is a matter of AVS and sites like PR.
Plus it's a lot of fun.
smile.gif
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