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post #631 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 10:55 AM
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OK, as best I can tell from all the back and forth, I will see equivalent brightness on this PJ as my Optoma (Stage mode vs. Optoma's 3D mode) and in 3D, I am not as hung up on calibration as I am for 2D viewing. With the deals available, I just keep coming back to this PJ for what I want. My only bottom line question is this (I have asked it before and I want one more round of opinions in plain English):


Optoma claims a 6X color wheel speed, which is actually widely reported as 3x speed, 6 segments at 120hz

Sharp claims a 5x color wheel, 6 segments (is it also 120hz?, don't know)

Based on my real world use of the Optoma, I see RBE fairly easily in 2D mode, almost never see it in 3D mode, even on white text on black background


Is the Sharp faster or slower (math from above says they can not be the same) than the Optoma? I ask because if it is indeed faster I can likely live with it and get the "benefits" of DLP, which I like a lot.

EDIT: I went back and reread Elix's answer to my question and it is his opinion that the HD33/3300 is only 4X in 2D but 6X in 3D. If the Sharp is indeed in the middle, then my 2D viewing would be a bit better. Right?

Please chime in, I am about to make a great purchase or bad mistake. smile.gif

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post #632 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrimore View Post

OK, as best I can tell from all the back and forth, I will see equivalent brightness on this PJ as my Optoma (Stage mode vs. Optoma's 3D mode) and in 3D, I am not as hung up on calibration as I am for 2D viewing. With the deals available, I just keep coming back to this PJ for what I want. My only bottom line question is this (I have asked it before and I want one more round of opinions in plain English):


Optoma claims a 6X color wheel speed, which is actually widely reported as 3x speed, 6 segments at 120hz

Sharp claims a 5x color wheel, 6 segments (is it also 120hz?, don't know)

Based on my real world use of the Optoma, I see RBE fairly easily in 2D mode, almost never see it in 3D mode, even on white text on black background


Is the Sharp faster or slower (math from above says they can not be the same) than the Optoma? I ask because if it is indeed faster I can likely live with it and get the "benefits" of DLP, which I like a lot.

We came from Benq which I think was a 5 segment color wheel. The Sharp reviews have almost all made the coment of "no rainbows". I can't recall anyone making an issue of it here...We certainly have not seen any. My $.02
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post #633 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

We came from Benq which I think was a 5 segment color wheel. The Sharp reviews have almost all made the coment of "no rainbows". I can't recall anyone making an issue of it here...We certainly have not seen any. My $.02

Which BenQ- I can at least do some poking to see what reviewers said for it's wheel/speed?

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post #634 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by hpfish10 View Post

How would you implement "130" x 59" screen for 2.35 use and keep the 110 inch 16 x 9 and use lens memory to toggle between them." I currently have a fixed 110" 16x9 and would like to explore the option to use a bigger 2.35 screen w/o removing the 16x9. Thanks.

In our set up we have two screens that go up and down (one electric and one pull down). They are simply hung one in front of the other (ceiling mounts). We adjust the size of the projected image with zoom and focus to one of the screens (say 16x9). Then you save the settings to Memory #1.
We then roll up the 16x9 screen and roll down the 2.35:1 screen. We readjust the zoom and focus for that one and save the settings to Memory #2. Then which ever screen we are using, we just touch one button (Memory #1 or #2) and we're good to go...
If you are using a fixed screen, then you need to mount the other screen size as a roll down positioned in front of it and use the memory functions the same way.

It's a benefit of having powered lens memory. Usually this is reserved for way more expensive projectors.
Hope this helps.
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post #635 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrimore View Post

OK, as best I can tell from all the back and forth, I will see equivalent brightness on this PJ as my Optoma (Stage mode vs. Optoma's 3D mode) and in 3D, I am not as hung up on calibration as I am for 2D viewing. With the deals available, I just keep coming back to this PJ for what I want. My only bottom line question is this (I have asked it before and I want one more round of opinions in plain English):


Optoma claims a 6X color wheel speed, which is actually widely reported as 3x speed, 6 segments at 120hz

Sharp claims a 5x color wheel, 6 segments (is it also 120hz?, don't know)

Based on my real world use of the Optoma, I see RBE fairly easily in 2D mode, almost never see it in 3D mode, even on white text on black background


Is the Sharp faster or slower (math from above says they can not be the same) than the Optoma? I ask because if it is indeed faster I can likely live with it and get the "benefits" of DLP, which I like a lot.

EDIT: I went back and reread Elix's answer to my question and it is his opinion that the HD33/3300 is only 4X in 2D but 6X in 3D. If the Sharp is indeed in the middle, then my 2D viewing would be a bit better. Right?

Please chime in, I am about to make a great purchase or bad mistake. smile.gif

You should be fine with the Sharp. I am sensitive to RBE but the rainbows don't bother me. They are few in between and the flashes are quick and mild. Most of the time I feel like watching a lcd projector. In 3D there's no chance to see the RBE. For $1.8K-1.9K you are not going to find a nicer 3D DLP projector.
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post #636 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

In our set up we have two screens that go up and down (one electric and one pull down). They are simply hung one in front of the other (ceiling mounts). We adjust the size of the projected image with zoom and focus to one of the screens (say 16x9). Then you save the settings to Memory #1.
We then roll up the 16x9 screen and roll down the 2.35:1 screen. We readjust the zoom and focus for that one and save the settings to Memory #2. Then which ever screen we are using, we just touch one button (Memory #1 or #2) and we're good to go...
If you are using a fixed screen, then you need to mount the other screen size as a roll down positioned in front of it and use the memory functions the same way.

It's a benefit of having powered lens memory. Usually this is reserved for way more expensive projectors.
Hope this helps.

Any reason you don't just use the 2:35 screen all the time and leave blank space at the sides for 16:9 material? You'd still need both zoom and focus settings, but one screen. Is it because of the lack of masking (and do you need that)?

Also, what kind of screen is your 2:35- and I assume it is the motorized one? I have been wanting to go scope for a while but have to have a drop down screen as I have a plasma behind the screen. However, I'd also like to not need two screens.

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post #637 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

You should be fine with the Sharp. I am sensitive to RBE but the rainbows don't bother me. They are few in between and the flashes are quick and mild. Most of the time I feel like watching a lcd projector. In 3D there's no chance to see the RBE. For $1.8K-1.9K you are not going to fine a nicer 3D DLP projector.

A couple more assurances like this and I will be pulling the trigger. This also brings back memories of my very first projector: a Sharp business model that many on here were using for home theater use (B10S). I loved that PJ because it started my "Home Cinema" experience and Sharp's service was exemplary.

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post #638 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 11:55 AM
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Are you buying it from one of the deals where you can return it? (just in case). I am hyper-sensitive to RBE. The Sharp 30k is better than the BenQ W7000 and the Mitsubishi HC8000 I recently reviewed.

With my HP screen, I can occasionally see RBE in low APL scenes, but it's rare and wouldn't really bother me. It's pretty much non-existent in 3D.
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post #639 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Are you buying it from one of the deals where you can return it? (just in case). I am hyper-sensitive to RBE. The Sharp 30k is better than the BenQ W7000 and the Mitsubishi HC8000 I recently reviewed.

With my HP screen, I can occasionally see RBE in low APL scenes, but it's rare and wouldn't really bother me. It's pretty much non-existent in 3D.

Yes, I can return it in 14 days or 10 hours on the lamp- I probably only need one. cool.gif

I have also read the BenQ is 4X and some who had seen both were talking up the Optoma I bought as much better. If the Sharp improves on that by 25%, I would likely be OK, methinks. At least that is my rationale.

Having been round and round on this, my qualms with other than DLP are deal breakers (3D).

DLP is apparently the best you can currently get for 3D in terms of lack of ghosting/crosstalk just looking at your review pics drives me nuts. LCD is making strides in 3D, but LCD projectors do not have sealed light paths. LCoS is the ultimate in black levels for 2D, but I have yet to see one in 3D that can match a good DLP in ghosting/crosstalk, even cheap DLPs look better in that category. DLP also has something about it that others don't; (that DLP look some call it) maybe it is that it is more like what I see in the theater since all my local theaters are DLP Cinemas.

So, if I am going to stay with DLP I need speed (for RBE) and ultra blacks. Looks like this is the best of the bunch for those, right? Even though the Optoma is not considered as good a performer in black levels, I could certainly live with it if not for the RBE, which leads me back here again, or to a 2 PJ setup.

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post #640 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 12:41 PM
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Now you know why I run multiple projectors... smile.gif

I've been running the JVC RS55 / BQ W7000 combo for a while and was (still am) considering changing out to the Sharp 30K for 3D. Even though it's not quite as bright as I'd like, the contrast in 3D is very good for a DLP, (better than the W7000/HC8000 but a notch or 2 below the HW50 and 5020, only noticeable in a direct A/B setup) and I really like the Sharp G20 glasses which are excellent imo.

With a blacked out room and close seating distance, it's difficult to match the PQ of the RS55 for 2D, but for the reasons you listed above, the DLP's are king for completely ghost free and flicker free 3D. Plus the 30K works on my HP, a rare situation with 3D DLP's (Only Sharp 30k and W7000 are in this category).

i thought the RBE performance was very good on this model. If I'm watching dark sci-fi, I'll catch it once in a while since I can still see occasional RBE even on 6x color wheels, but overall a non-issue with most content.
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post #641 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

In our set up we have two screens that go up and down (one electric and one pull down). They are simply hung one in front of the other (ceiling mounts). We adjust the size of the projected image with zoom and focus to one of the screens (say 16x9). Then you save the settings to Memory #1.
We then roll up the 16x9 screen and roll down the 2.35:1 screen. We readjust the zoom and focus for that one and save the settings to Memory #2. Then which ever screen we are using, we just touch one button (Memory #1 or #2) and we're good to go...
If you are using a fixed screen, then you need to mount the other screen size as a roll down positioned in front of it and use the memory functions the same way.

It's a benefit of having powered lens memory. Usually this is reserved for way more expensive projectors.
Hope this helps.

is your 2.35:1 a manual pull down? What is the Brand and gain rating? Where did you get it? I could not find one with a pull down that big a size. If I get it, then when I pull it down, i would like if to totally cover my fixed 110" 16x9 screen.
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post #642 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrimore View Post

Any reason you don't just use the 2:35 screen all the time and leave blank space at the sides for 16:9 material? You'd still need both zoom and focus settings, but one screen. Is it because of the lack of masking (and do you need that)?

Also, what kind of screen is your 2:35- and I assume it is the motorized one? I have been wanting to go scope for a while but have to have a drop down screen as I have a plasma behind the screen. However, I'd also like to not need two screens.

The reason is: that it was an incredible effort and expense to install the Cosmopolitan Electrol, and we already have it (16x9). We watch a lot of HD sports, so it's a great fit.
For the 2.35:1, I'm considering a Model C with CSR (about $1k). That should be a relatively easy (fantasy) to hang behind the electric...

The electric or pull down 2.35:1 screen in front of your plasma is a good option, it just does not take advantage of the lens memory and you have to look at the black bars for 16x9 (no big deal)...
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post #643 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpfish10 View Post

is your 2.35:1 a manual pull down? What is the Brand and gain rating? Where did you get it? I could not find one with a pull down that big a size. If I get it, then when I pull it down, i would like if to totally cover my fixed 110" 16x9 screen.

Dalite makes High Power screens. Ours is 2.8 gain (with optimum PJ mount location)
To get a large 2.35 HP screen, you have to have Dalite cut down one to fit (which they will do).
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post #644 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 04:40 PM
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quick poll:

What is your favorite pair of 3d glasses for the Sharp XV-Z30000?
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post #645 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 06:22 PM
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This is the response I got back from Woot regarding the 1 year warranty:

Thank you for taking the time to email us. We appreciate your concerns as well as your business.

The warranty term for the product is what Woot was able to agree to terms with the manufacturer on and may vary from that of the product if purchased from the manufacturer directly or another retailer.

Best Regards,

Riley
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I also asked if they were refurbished but didn't get an answer on that. I payed $2200 for mine which I assume has the full 3 year warranty. However since it is defective, two stuck mirrors, I will be sending it back for a refund.

I'm still very tempted with that Woot deal. $1800 is a heck of a deal. And really most electronics, if they're going to fail, fail within the first year anyway.
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post #646 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walternate View Post

This is the response I got back from Woot regarding the 1 year warranty:

Thank you for taking the time to email us. We appreciate your concerns as well as your business.

The warranty term for the product is what Woot was able to agree to terms with the manufacturer on and may vary from that of the product if purchased from the manufacturer directly or another retailer.

Best Regards,

Riley
Woot Member Services

I also asked if they were refurbished but didn't get an answer on that. I payed $2200 for mine which I assume has the full 3 year warranty. However since it is defective, two stuck mirrors, I will be sending it back for a refund.

I'm still very tempted with that Woot deal. $1800 is a heck of a deal. And really most electronics, if they're going to fail, fail within the first year anyway.

I got ours through the first Woot deal. It came with a 3 year, but the price was a little bit higher. You can always buy the Square Trade extended or just use an AMEX card for the second year. I wouldn't let the warranty slow you down at this price...
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post #647 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 06:31 PM
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Perhaps that is a standard response from that Woot person Riley. In the box (and I assume it is direct from the manufacture) it should have a warranty card that says 3-years in USA and I think 1-Year in Canada. I don't see how Woot is getting a different shipment of boxes with a different warranty for the same item. Something seems suspect or inaccurate information from Woot.

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post #648 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 07:22 PM
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Unfortunately Woot doesn't take AMEX. Fortunately my Visa card has the same kind of warranty extension.
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post #649 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 07:24 PM
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If you have Discover, they also have the warranty and price protection. I am in the process of doing a price protection match to the moofi deal.

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post #650 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 07:46 PM
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Too late. Just bought one. I do have a Discover but at $1800 I probably won't need the protection. At least I hope not! smile.gif
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post #651 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

The reason is: that it was an incredible effort and expense to install the Cosmopolitan Electrol, and we already have it (16x9). We watch a lot of HD sports, so it's a great fit.
For the 2.35:1, I'm considering a Model C with CSR (about $1k). That should be a relatively easy (fantasy) to hang behind the electric...

The electric or pull down 2.35:1 screen in front of your plasma is a good option, it just does not take advantage of the lens memory and you have to look at the black bars for 16x9 (no big deal)...

I have the cosmopolitan also at 106" diag 2.8 gain. Right now the PJ is maybe 4' from my eye level. I see some gain there so much that I could watch 3D without using torch mode. I found my tuned 2D natural choice looks fine also. If anyone plans on a dalite High Power I know the best prices out there with free shipping just PM me.

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post #652 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 08:18 PM
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I have the cosmopolitan also at 106" diag 2.8 gain. Right now the PJ is maybe 4' from my eye level. I see some gain there so much that I could watch 3D without using torch mode. I found my tuned 2D natural choice looks fine also. If anyone plans on a dalite High Power I know the best prices out there with free shipping just PM me.

Tom,
We have our Sharp just inside the top edge of the screen, about 8 feet over our heads and the gain is still plenty bright (Stage) for 3D. We use Sports for sports (naturally), I thought that Stage was too bright.
We have been using Movie 1 for 2D (with ecoquiet). What has everyone else been using for 2D movies?

You seem to know the HP stable. Can another supplier cut down a Model "C to make a 2.35:1 screen?
I talked to another AVSer who got it done by Dalite, but I wouldn't mind hearing other options...
It seems strange that with all the screen sizes Dalite has (square, 16x10 ???), they don't offer a scope screen.
Thanks,
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post #653 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Walternate View Post

Unfortunately Woot doesn't take AMEX. Fortunately my Visa card has the same kind of warranty extension.

I bought my last month from Woot using AMEX cool.gif
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post #654 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post



I talked to another AVSer who got it done by Dalite, but I wouldn't mind hearing other options...
It seems strange that with all the screen sizes Dalite has (square, 16x10 ???), they don't offer a scope screen.
Thanks,

Dalite does sell fixed frame screens in scope format.

http://www.da-lite.com/products/pricing_pdfs/234.pdf

The Dalite Cinema Contour, this is the same frame as my 142" 2.8 HP. Excellent construction but it's not cheap.
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post #655 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Dalite does sell fixed frame screens in scope format.

http://www.da-lite.com/products/pricing_pdfs/234.pdf

The Dalite Cinema Contour, this is the same frame as my 142" 2.8 HP. Excellent construction but it's not cheap.

Zombie, do you know anything about having a pull down model cut down to scope, or can you direct me somewhere for more info?
I emailed Dalite, but so far, no response.
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post #656 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 09:24 PM
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not sure why they don't offer the scope pull down, perhaps to not compete with the more expensive fixed frame models. Some folks on the DIY screen forum would take the large 159" HP model C and cut out the material for a DIY frame. The HP material doesn't stretch much during mounting, so the cutting and mounting of the snap tabs has to be done precisely to prevent wrinkles during mounting to the frame.

Some folks also go with the 16:9 format and mask for 2:35:1 movies. How big is the screen going to be?

pm sent on who to ask @ dalite.
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post #657 of 1661 Old 04-25-2013, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Tom,
We have our Sharp just inside the top edge of the screen, about 8 feet over our heads and the gain is still plenty bright (Stage) for 3D. We use Sports for sports (naturally), I thought that Stage was too bright.
We have been using Movie 1 for 2D (with ecoquiet). What has everyone else been using for 2D movies?

You seem to know the HP stable. Can another supplier cut down a Model "C to make a 2.35:1 screen?
I talked to another AVSer who got it done by Dalite, but I wouldn't mind hearing other options...
It seems strange that with all the screen sizes Dalite has (square, 16x10 ???), they don't offer a scope screen.
Thanks,

Maybe if you talk to my conection they could get a custom. But you might hv to go to dalite direct which means no discount.

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post #658 of 1661 Old 04-26-2013, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

not sure why they don't offer the scope pull down, perhaps to not compete with the more expensive fixed frame models. Some folks on the DIY screen forum would take the large 159" HP model C and cut out the material for a DIY frame. The HP material doesn't stretch much during mounting, so the cutting and mounting of the snap tabs has to be done precisely to prevent wrinkles during mounting to the frame.

Some folks also go with the 16:9 format and mask for 2:35:1 movies. How big is the screen going to be?

pm sent on who to ask @ dalite.

Thanks for the PM.
The max width we can accomodate is 130". So, that means about a 55" depth.
There are windows and a window seat in the rear of the room, behind the screens, so we can not go fixed. It needs to be a roll up scope screen.

It would be great to see your super large high power fixed screen sometime. I think I have screen envy... rolleyes.gif
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post #659 of 1661 Old 04-26-2013, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

Perhaps that is a standard response from that Woot person Riley. In the box (and I assume it is direct from the manufacture) it should have a warranty card that says 3-years in USA and I think 1-Year in Canada. I don't see how Woot is getting a different shipment of boxes with a different warranty for the same item. Something seems suspect or inaccurate information from Woot.

I double checked the warranty card that came with the Z30000 (Woot deal). It says 3 years in Canada, but says nothing about the US???
Did anyone else receive this? If so, what does it mean, did Woot get Canadian bound goods? If so, how will the US warranty be affected? They represented the unit as brand new, and it came in a sealed box.
When we purchased it, included the two free glasses and there was no specific mention of any change to the factory warranty in the add (which is different then this last Woot offering).

The good news is that our "ghost turn on" problem seems to have resolved itself. All it took was finally calling Sharp and doing the CS dance for a few hours (exaggeration). The last tech I talked to had me remove the batteries from the remote control and cycle the buttons in sequence from the bottom to the top. Then reinsert the batteries. Strange, but so far (one week), so good...
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post #660 of 1661 Old 04-26-2013, 06:33 AM
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Funny how that solved the ghost turn on issue you had. I remembered when I used to work with a copier repair man, he had these "magic" key sequence to fix almost all types of copier issues. Anyway, here are the warranty cards that came with mine:

Sharp_warranty.pdf 140k .pdf file
Sharp_can_warranty.pdf 163k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Sharp_warranty.pdf (140.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: pdf Sharp_can_warranty.pdf (162.7 KB, 14 views)

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