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post #1081 of 1764 Old 06-01-2013, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Zombie,
So, -6 on Red and -4 on Blue. Did you leave everything else on default settings?
What about Contrast, Brightness, Color, Tint, Sharp, Iris1 &2, Color Enhance, Detail Enhance...
If you watch everything on high lamp, do you play around at all with brightness when watching a dark 2D movie? I would think that with a 2.8HP, you would get a sunburn sometimes wink.gif.

Most settings are stock, you can tweak the color enhance and detail to suite the personal preferences. I keep the color enhanced turned all the way down, but some folks like the over-saturated colors which setting 1 or 2 will provide.

iris 2 is on, Iris 1 is setup to 'high brightness'. I'm not sure I like the iris setting for 'high contrast' it seems to flatten the overall image too much for my preferences, i'd sooner user an ND filter if I wanted to knock down the light.

I'm mainly using the sharp for ambient light HDTV and 3D for now. I have it mounted higher than the JVC which knocks down the brightness at seated position. Since the area round my screen is now blacked out, the 3D looks fairly bright even in this location which isn't ideal for max gain.

sharp-jvc.jpg


Did you get the Darbee yet?
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post #1082 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 08:13 AM
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Not yet on the Darbee. Due to the cathedral ceiling mount, the HDMI cable is 50 feet long...eek.gif
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DW9H56/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's all in wall/ceiling with no way to upgrade it to a powered cable. Fortunately, I have no handshake issues with the projector (knock on wood).
I'm concerned that the Darbee will have problems with this long run.
I looked at the main Darbee thread, but at 200+ pages, I could not read it all. From what I could find, there was no clear answer...I posted there, perhaps I'll get an idea.
What do you think? Will it be OK, or do I just have to buy it and try...?
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post #1083 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 09:06 AM
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I use a 30+ foot plain jane cable for the projector tests and never had a problem with the Darbee or my Lumagen Mini3 D, I don't think you will have any problems. I have the Darbee near the AV receiver and it works great. I would buy one and give it a shot, you can always return it if it's an issue.
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post #1084 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 09:51 AM
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I've had a few issues with the Darbee due to HDMI matrix switching (4x2) and EDID recognition. If not using an HDMI matrix switch, you probably won't have issues. One of my HTPC's got locked into recognizing the JVC was a 1920x1280 projector and kept forcing that mode (which BTW means a blank screen of nothingness). The problem was triggered by switching between 2 PJ's with the matrix on the Darbee. I literally would have to hook an LCD monitor up to the secondary DVI port of my video card and fix it, but then it would revert back after unplugging the monitor (windows 7 bug, googled how to fix but eventually had to re-install). Then I accidentally melted the Darbee, but that's another story.

I just bought a new HDMI matrix switch that I might get time to hook up today, hopefully since it's 1.4a instead of 1.3b it'll work better (not because it's 1.4a, but because the fact that it is 1.4a probably means a newer firmware and maybe newer hardware than past matrix switches I've tried). Though the end-game solution on matrix switching is probably to buy one that has EDID learning function (found one for only $130), but then again it was only 1.3b too, so figured I'll try the 1.4a and see if these newer chinese firmwares work better before trying 1.3b + EDID learning. I haven't seen any 1.4a w/ EDID learning yet for reasonable prices.


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post #1085 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 10:15 AM
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I've had a number of switches, some quite expensive that were all a headache in some way. Thankfully my AVR's have enough HDMI ports to toss those things aside.

I've used the Darbee with the Denon 4311 and my Pioneer SC-68 without a problem on all the different projectors and various input device like the mediator, popcorn hour, samsung 3D BD, HTPC, etc.
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post #1086 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 12:27 PM
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I have a Monoprice 25ft 22AWG CL2 Silver Plated High Speed HDMI and a Monoprice 10ft 24AWG CL2 Silver Plated High Speed HDMI cable in the chain from the AVR to the projector. I originally had the 10ft going from the AVR to the Darbee and then the 25ft going to the projector but it didn't work. The projector didn't receive a signal and stayed on the start up screen. So I tried reversing it and now it works fine.

For me, the 25ft was too long of a run and the Darbee couldn't handle powering it, it seems.
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post #1087 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biliam1982 View Post

I have a Monoprice 25ft 22AWG CL2 Silver Plated High Speed HDMI and a Monoprice 10ft 24AWG CL2 Silver Plated High Speed HDMI cable in the chain from the AVR to the projector. I originally had the 10ft going from the AVR to the Darbee and then the 25ft going to the projector but it didn't work. The projector didn't receive a signal and stayed on the start up screen. So I tried reversing it and now it works fine.

For me, the 25ft was too long of a run and the Darbee couldn't handle powering it, it seems.

That's not such good news for my 50 foot run, but your issue may have been related to the multiple connections in the chain. I have read that's a no no for many HDMI devices...
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post #1088 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 01:47 PM
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every scenario is going to be different. since it can be returned if it doesn't work for you, there's not a lot of risk to try it out.
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post #1089 of 1764 Old 06-02-2013, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

That's not such good news for my 50 foot run, but your issue may have been related to the multiple connections in the chain. I have read that's a no no for many HDMI devices...

How would that be any different from anyone else? A cable to the Darbee and one from the Darbee to the projector.
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every scenario is going to be different. since it can be returned if it doesn't work for you, there's not a lot of risk to try it out.

Yes, it could work for someone else. Who knows why exactly it doesn't work for me.

I have no testing equipment to check voltage and power output from the Darbee or AVR or anything like that.

I just did some quick troubleshooting and switched cables around and it worked. The onl downside is now the Darbee has to be closer to the projector, but since it's not ceiling mounted, it's not that big of an issue.
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post #1090 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 07:30 AM
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My bad, I read that you had the 10 footer and the 25 footer daisy chained to make a long cable, then the darbee added...
I agree with you and Zombie. HDMI handshake problems are a mystery. INMO, they are backpeddling with each new protocol. They are way better than they used to be, but definitely not "plug and play".
I figured a possible "work around" . If it won't feed the 50 footer and work, the device seems small and light enough to rest on top of the PJ. I'll get out the ladder and put it on the end, of the chain, just before the Z30K...
Has anyone tried this type of set up?
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post #1091 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 08:17 AM
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I run from a Denon 4311 25' to the shelf where the PJ is mounted into to the Darbee and then to the PJ. My experience is that a very short HDMI cable to the PJ form the Darbee will cause problems; at least it did for me. I needed to swap a 3' cable for a 6' cable from the Darbee to the PJ. Interestingly enough the 3' cable works fine elsewhere. With HDMI I believe it sometimes is necessary to sacrifice a chicken.
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post #1092 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

My bad, I read that you had the 10 footer and the 25 footer daisy chained to make a long cable, then the darbee added...
I agree with you and Zombie. HDMI handshake problems are a mystery. INMO, they are backpeddling with each new protocol. They are way better than they used to be, but definitely not "plug and play".
I figured a possible "work around" . If it won't feed the 50 footer and work, the device seems small and light enough to rest on top of the PJ. I'll get out the ladder and put it on the end, of the chain, just before the Z30K...
Has anyone tried this type of set up?

Have you thought about going wireless?
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post #1093 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
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With HDMI I believe it sometimes is necessary to sacrifice a chicken.

HAHAHAHA!
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post #1094 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 08:44 AM
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I never had too many issues with my own personal HDMI connections to ONE projector, it is HDMI matrix switches where it gets tricky (running to multiple devices).
Really what always messes it up is the HTPC, or having two devices of unlike settings (720p and 1080p device, or 3D and no 3D device). If you are just running to one PJ, I'm surprised you are having issues, though who knows.

So far this new switch I am trying works, but I haven't shut-off / restarted stuff enough to know yet. It was $70 on E-bay. The build quality definitely seems higher than my last one.


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post #1095 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 02:55 PM
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I ordered 2 lamps and expected DHL delivery last week. DHL service is terrible. I called everyday since last Thursday, they told me my address was incorrect, but it was not true, the address was correct all along. They expected me to come to their office in another city to pick up the lamp. I asked for the local DHL phone # so I could call and push them, they refused to give to me, citing they would not give out local phone #, only agreed to post the complain in their system. I contacted the shipper, they refused to intervene, asking me to go and pick it up. I will never use DHL again. I just vent my frustration.
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post #1096 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 03:17 PM
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Use Switchboard.com and look up the number for the local DHL station. It's usually in there.

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post #1097 of 1764 Old 06-03-2013, 03:21 PM
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Also, I did a search on DHL San Diego, my local city, and came up with address and phone number. Here is a link to DHL's offices:

http://www.dhl-dgf.com/offices/offices.cgi?C=US

If that doesn't work for you then I suspect the problem is more yours than theirs.

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post #1098 of 1764 Old 06-04-2013, 04:09 AM
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Has any other owners used the Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark Blu-Ray 2nd Edition to help calibrate their proejctor?

I'm coming up on 150 hours and want to start dialing it in as best I can.
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post #1099 of 1764 Old 06-05-2013, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

i think if the lamps are cheap, folks may be less compelled to swap it out or sell it, perhaps move it to a different room if they upgrade. At this price, one can use it as a TV an not worry about lamp replacement prices.

Also, all UHP lamps will dim over time, so we don't know how this lamp performs at 500-1000 hours, etc. It's definitely the factory lamp though, not a knock off so it should last just as long.

I don't know how many other Sharp's used this lamp, so it's hard to say how long this lamp will be available. This wasn't a popular model, so it makes sense to get at least 1 for a backup.

When the next lamp arrives, I'll take this apart again and swap it in with details on how to remove the spring door.

Hi Zombie, I finally got my lamp, next step is to try to swap it in. Please provide step by step instructions/tips on how to remove the lamp/housing from projector, and how to remove the lamp from the housing, and reinstall. THANKS.
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post #1100 of 1764 Old 06-05-2013, 03:21 PM
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Read page 78 of the manual.
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post #1101 of 1764 Old 06-11-2013, 03:07 PM
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zombie I got those g20's you like. Just curious does that shiny reflection of the screen on the top of the frame of the glasses not bother you? Maybe it doesn't happen to every one based upon their nose structure but I have to constantly move them way up higher then what I would normally call comfortable so the reflection is no longer visable. I may try some other nose pieces if I can find some. Other then that they are my favorite glasses. Much lighter then the other two pair I have.
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post #1102 of 1764 Old 06-12-2013, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almostinsane View Post

Fan sound?

My projector has a mechanical hum to it (mostly drowned out when content plays) in addition to the hum of the fan(s). Is this the same sound on everyone else's? Kinda sounds like an Xbox.

Called Sharp support up to get a case opened as the fan sound didn't seem right. They sent me a Fedex return label a few minutes after the call. They are located in the US so no dealing with Bob from India.

Sent the proj in and 2 days later got a call that the problem was the color wheel and they would not have parts available to repair for 4 months. They said they would ship me a refurbished model as a replacement. I said fine, didn't want to wait 4 months.

Fast forward to today (about 10 business days) and received the replacement. Good news is that it is a full replacement - proj, glasses, remote, etc. So now I have plenty of glasses. And this one is silent like it should be.

Bad news is that the lens shift is busted on this one. When I move left or right it also moves horizontally or vertically. When I took it out of the box it was not stuck into the cardboard and could move around and I also could hear the sound of something rattling inside the proj.

Oh well, another call tomorrow.
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post #1103 of 1764 Old 06-13-2013, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almostinsane View Post

Called Sharp support up to get a case opened as the fan sound didn't seem right. They sent me a Fedex return label a few minutes after the call. They are located in the US so no dealing with Bob from India.

Sent the proj in and 2 days later got a call that the problem was the color wheel and they would not have parts available to repair for 4 months. They said they would ship me a refurbished model as a replacement. I said fine, didn't want to wait 4 months.

Fast forward to today (about 10 business days) and received the replacement. Good news is that it is a full replacement - proj, glasses, remote, etc. So now I have plenty of glasses. And this one is silent like it should be.

Bad news is that the lens shift is busted on this one. When I move left or right it also moves horizontally or vertically. When I took it out of the box it was not stuck into the cardboard and could move around and I also could hear the sound of something rattling inside the proj.

Oh well, another call tomorrow.

Thanks for the update.
It seems like they are trying to resolve things...
Please let us know how it goes and any specific contact info.
I have an intermittent "turn on" problem that I may need to follow up on.
Good luck smile.gif
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post #1104 of 1764 Old 06-13-2013, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almostinsane View Post

Called Sharp support up to get a case opened as the fan sound didn't seem right. They sent me a Fedex return label a few minutes after the call. They are located in the US so no dealing with Bob from India.

Sent the proj in and 2 days later got a call that the problem was the color wheel and they would not have parts available to repair for 4 months. They said they would ship me a refurbished model as a replacement. I said fine, didn't want to wait 4 months.

Fast forward to today (about 10 business days) and received the replacement. Good news is that it is a full replacement - proj, glasses, remote, etc. So now I have plenty of glasses. And this one is silent like it should be.

Bad news is that the lens shift is busted on this one. When I move left or right it also moves horizontally or vertically. When I took it out of the box it was not stuck into the cardboard and could move around and I also could hear the sound of something rattling inside the proj.

Oh well, another call tomorrow.

My story is similar, I thought I had a bad fan as well but it also turned out to be the color wheel. I shipped mine out for repair on the 16th of last month and got a refurbished one back yesterday. When I received it I also noticed that there was movement inside the box. Luckily my projector is working fine and having another set of accessories is nice as well. Good luck on the next one you get almostinsane hopefully they will package it better this time.
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post #1105 of 1764 Old 06-13-2013, 04:28 PM
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Whelp, got another case opened and Fedex label sent to me. 3rd times a charm, right?
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post #1106 of 1764 Old 06-15-2013, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad711 View Post

zombie I got those g20's you like. Just curious does that shiny reflection of the screen on the top of the frame of the glasses not bother you? Maybe it doesn't happen to every one based upon their nose structure but I have to constantly move them way up higher then what I would normally call comfortable so the reflection is no longer visable. I may try some other nose pieces if I can find some. Other then that they are my favorite glasses. Much lighter then the other two pair I have.

I was seeing it but not paying attention. Now that you mentioned it, it's all I see now... biggrin.gifcool.gif

I have a quick and easy fix. I used some light tack painting tape to make a template. I then used a small section of the 'protostar' flocking that I used to black out my ceiling tile grid. This material is easy to cut and the adhesive is very strong.

http://www.protostar.biz/flock.htm

I just have to do a quick trim on the inside with a razor blade. it's perfect, now it's a 'black hole' with the glasses on. The reflected light is gone! smile.gif

Now these are truly the best 3D glasses i've used (and I've seen a TON). I recently had some visitors and there wasn't 1 complaint about the 3D or the glasses. With the W7000, I was losing the DLP link sync too often and some folks complained about the various glasses I had. The Optoma ZD201 lenses are too small in comparison and the BQ D3 glasses aren't very comfortable.

Saturday night Home Theater Arts & Crafts 101

g20-mod.jpg

g20-mod1.jpg

g20-mod2.jpg
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post #1107 of 1764 Old 06-15-2013, 11:48 PM
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Excellent tip Mr Craftbie........my projector arrived last Wednsday as did my G20's.....gave the projector a quick check....appears to be the perfect 3D mate for the 106" HP. Having a shelf/stand made up so it sits below the HD750/RS20 to provide max brightness......looks good thus far even on high contrast mode.......more than adequate brightness.

Thanks for all you're advice re this unit!

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post #1108 of 1764 Old 06-16-2013, 12:10 AM
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I got a pair of the G20's too. Same issue w/ seeing reflections. I'll have to try and find something like what you did Jason.

I A/B'd the G20 and G10 but couldn't see much difference in image quality. Maybe ever so slightly the G20 was better. But they were definitely lighter so just slightly more comfortable.

Lens size was bigger on the G20 but for my seating position @ 10ft back from a 10ft wide scope screen, it didn't make a difference. I could easily see the screen with both glasses.

The G20 sits lower on my nose bridge, even with the larger nose piece. The G10 sits higher so it gives me a wider field of view, equal to the G20. Also, with the thicker sides of the G10, it made me focus on the screen more and not get distracted by things I could see in my periphery w/ the G20.

The two main things that bugged me w/ the G10 was the nose piece easily falls off and is kind of a pain. Also, the sides are somewhat forced in and puts some pressure on my head.

So if I was just going to watch one 3D movie, I think I would choose the G10. But if I was going to do some 3D binge viewing, probably the G20 due to them being lighter and wouldn't bug me so much over time.
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post #1109 of 1764 Old 06-17-2013, 10:35 AM
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That's a good idea Zombie I will have to do something like that as well. I do prefer these glasses because they are much lighter then the ones that came with the PJ.
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post #1110 of 1764 Old 06-17-2013, 11:50 AM
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I haven't bought a pair of G20s yet, but last night I tested 3D with the glasses that came with the projector (G10?). The things are terrible at dropping the sync signal from the transmitter. Initially, I put the transmitter on top of the projector behind me. I got no signal at all. I had to move the transmitter around to sit on an end table next to my seat, pointing directly at my face, no more than two feet away. Even then, the glasses would still drop out of 3D periodically, if I turned my head slightly.

Is this the fault of the glasses, or the transmitter? Would the G20s receive a signal if I moved the transmitter back to behind me? Or am I doomed to having to run the transmitter cable all the way to the front of the room?

Josh Z
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Curator, Laserdisc Forever

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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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