Sharp XV-Z30000 3D DLP - Page 74 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2191 of 2205 Old 05-02-2017, 09:18 PM
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Here's all 4 fan part numbers:

NFANRA090WJ00 - Power Fan (Can be purchased here)
NFANRA106WJ00 - Exhaust Fan (Can be purchased here)
NFANRA090WJ00 - Intake Fan (Can be purchased here)
NFANSA028WJ00 - Lamp Fan (Can be purchased here)
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post #2192 of 2205 Old 05-02-2017, 09:26 PM
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all these years I had no idea the 30K could handle DLP Link, I thought it was IR only

in the 3D service menu

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post #2193 of 2205 Old 05-02-2017, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
Here's all 4 fan part numbers:

NFANRA090WJ00 - Power Fan (Can be purchased here)
NFANRA106WJ00 - Exhaust Fan (Can be purchased here)
NFANRA090WJ00 - Intake Fan (Can be purchased here)
NFANSA028WJ00 - Lamp Fan (Can be purchased here)
I saw that but they are 'special order' for all parts. Who knows if they will actually be able to get them.
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post #2194 of 2205 Old 05-02-2017, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
I saw that but they are 'special order' for all parts. Who knows if they will actually be able to get them.
True, but having the part numbers can be handy.
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post #2195 of 2205 Old 05-02-2017, 09:44 PM
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post #2196 of 2205 Old 06-02-2017, 03:25 AM
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Hi,

How can I remove the battery from the G30 Glasses?

I read the manual and it indicates that I have to remove the arms. How can I remove the arms without breaking them?

@zombie10K

How can I enter into he service menu?

Thanks.

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post #2197 of 2205 Old 07-17-2017, 08:30 PM
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Well, I think I'm screwed. I never sent my Z30k in for servicing because I didn't want to risk it being a huge waste of time and money that would leave me with a projector more broken than when I started. It's been working consistently fine for several months since the last flare-up. Last night, unfortunately, it shut down on its own after a few minutes.

Typically when this happens, I'll let it cool off for the night and it'll be fine the next day. This time, however, it won't turn on at all.

I'm out of my warranty period, even with the credit card extension.

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post #2198 of 2205 Old 07-17-2017, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post
Well, I think I'm screwed. I never sent my Z30k in for servicing because I didn't want to risk it being a huge waste of time and money that would leave me with a projector more broken than when I started. It's been working consistently fine for several months since the last flare-up. Last night, unfortunately, it shut down on its own after a few minutes.

Typically when this happens, I'll let it cool off for the night and it'll be fine the next day. This time, however, it won't turn on at all.

I'm out of my warranty period, even with the credit card extension.
1) What happens after you plug the projector in, does the standby / "receiving power indicator" light still work?

2) What happens when you attempt to turn it on, does it even whir or make any noises or lights come on, or does it do absolutely nothing?

I would open up the top of the projector and give it a good sniff to see if anything smells unusually burnt.

You need to test the power supply of the projector and see if the problem was in the power supply, or if it is in the other electronics.
If it is one of the boards, then yah, you're probably screwed short of finding a used broken Sharp on Ebay that you could cannibalize for parts.

If it just overheated, the problem could be anything, could be a ram module on the board, or even just the main processor that the projector uses.

You can potentially test all the diodes, resistors, and capacitors on the board... It will however take forever. It's not hard, it's just a ridiculous amount of labor and it may not even find the problem. However, it might be worth taking at least a day and checking the larger parts on the board, the ones you can easily re-solder. You can learn how to test caps, resistors, and diodes from Google.

Generally, the bad cap/res/diode will sometimes be close to the power source (where the power supply meets the board), but first you have to eliminate the power supply as being the culprit or the other steps are a complete waste of time.

Also, make sure there is no kill switch inside the projector. Some projectors once overheated enough, a switch/button will be permanently set inside the projector because it overheated way too much. You may need to reset it.

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post #2199 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
1) What happens after you plug the projector in, does the standby / "receiving power indicator" light still work?
Yes, that light turns on.

Quote:
2) What happens when you attempt to turn it on, does it even whir or make any noises or lights come on, or does it do absolutely nothing?
The projector tries to turn on. It makes whirring noises and both the Power and Lamp lights start blinking. But then it immediately turns off after about three seconds without the lamp striking.

The lamp was just replaced a few months ago and was OEM, so I'm going to be really pissed if it burned out already. The projector was working fine on Saturday.

I'm afraid that some of your suggestions re: testing diodes are above my skill set.

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post #2200 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post
Yes, that light turns on.



The projector tries to turn on. It makes whirring noises and both the Power and Lamp lights start blinking. But then it immediately turns off after about three seconds without the lamp striking.

The lamp was just replaced a few months ago and was OEM, so I'm going to be really pissed if it burned out already. The projector was working fine on Saturday.

I'm afraid that some of your suggestions re: testing diodes are above my skill set.
It could just be a dead fan, you need to look at all the fans (open the PJ case if you have to when turning on the PJ), and see if they all are turning when you turn the projector on. As far as testing diodes, it's actually simple, the hard part is de-soldering the things in order to hook a voltmeter to it, so yah it's not usually practical. Defective caps can sometimes be seen by eye, they will sometimes be split, warped, discolored, or have a leaky look.

The key is to also to smell for that burnt smell, almost like burnt rubber with a hint of burnt plastic.

Testing diodes, caps, and resistors is very simple with a voltmeter, the problem isn't testing them (a first grader can do it), the problem is de-soldering them in the first place in order to hook a voltmeter to it (they cannot generally be tested consistently while on the board, in some certain sequences I believe they can though).
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post #2201 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Z View Post
The lamp was just replaced a few months ago and was OEM, so I'm going to be really pissed if it burned out already. The projector was working fine on Saturday.

I'm afraid that some of your suggestions re: testing diodes are above my skill set.
Yup, check the lamp and the fans first, that is the troubleshooting order. Then if that doesn't work, I'd try to eliminate the power supply.
You may be able to order a new power supply from a place you can return it (no idea), and test hooking a new P/S to the projector.

It sounds like the lamp probably went out, but given your previous issues, I'd also suspect overheating.

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post #2202 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 10:14 AM
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Didn't you already see FAN errors in the service menu a few months ago? if one finally died it's probably not going to fully 'boot up'.

The top is pretty easy to take off, it's just a few screws. You would be able to get a visual on most of the fans to see which one isn't working.


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post #2203 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
The top is pretty easy to take off, it's just a few screws. You would be able to get a visual on most of the fans to see which one isn't working.
How do I tell which one isn't working if the projector won't turn on?

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post #2204 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
The key is to also to smell for that burnt smell, almost like burnt rubber with a hint of burnt plastic.
Yeah, I do recall noticing something like that in my basement recently. I don't remember if it was during a time I was using the projector or not, though.

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post #2205 of 2205 Old 07-18-2017, 08:00 PM
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with the top cover off you can spin the 3 accessible fans with compressed air to see if any are binding or stuck.

One of those fans is likely the issue since it triggered an event in the service menu previously.

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