Originally Posted by millerwill
I would be interested in hearing how various ones of you are choosing for the iris (DI high or low) or Manual, and also Motion Flow (high, low, or off).
I use 'low' for Motion Flow but haven't really done a thorough study to decide if that's best for me.
For the iris, I find that the DI on 'high' is the brightest (same as having it fully open on Manual) for scenes with any significant light in them; and then when all the light disappears it shuts down very quickly. I don't think I care much for this. So I have been using the 'low' setting of the DI. And more recently I've been comparing this to Manual, set at ~ 20 to 30 (I have PLENTY of brightness to spare!); this gives very good black level and and avoids any DI effects.
And another combo I'm going to try is to move Contrast all the way up to 100 (now use 90 to 95), and close the Manual iris down even further. The idea would be to get even better CR and black level, but to keep the brightness and dynamism of the whites, i.e., to maximize the dynamic range.
Any thoughts from those of you that are more experienced would be interesting to hear!
A few thoughts:
1) Regarding MotionFlow - assuming its like the VW95 - for sports, I use it all the time on Low (I haven't noticed much benefit to using it on High under any type of viewing, except for 3D in which case I always use it on High regardless of the content). For TV shows I usually use it on Low too.
For movies I usually will start off in Low but if I find it distracting because of the SOE or artifacts (it causes flickering in certain fine materials/patterns) then I switch it off. A good example of this was the movie Blackthorn. Normally the SOE is very slight and doesn't bother me, but with this movie it just made it feel fake - like I was sitting by the stage watching them film it rather than watching the movie.
2) Regarding boosting contrast - I would not recommend this unless you know for certain that a) you will not crush 235, and b) you will not create a noticeably color shift at the top end. Some folks have reported here that with the 1000 they could push contrast so something may be different compared to the 95 here. In my case I cannot go over 89 without crushing 235.
I can't remember if you have a meter and software. If you do it'll be easy to figure out what increasing contrast does to D65 at 100%. If you don't then I suggest this:
- put up a gray bars pattern that has 5% steps and check out what the bars at 90, 95 and 100 look like with your normal contrast setting. Then start increasing it and observe these bars. If at any point the 95% bar starts to disappear, or any of these bars starts to shift in color (such as pinkish) then reduce contrast back to the point just before where that starts to happen. This then is the maximum contrast setting to even consider, but still may be too high. So then you need to do part 2 of the test, which is to put up the blinking bars contrast pattern on the AVS HD 709 pattern disc and make sure you can see bar 234 blinking. It you can, then you are at the maximum contrast. If you can't, back the contrast down until you can barely see 234 blinking. Then you have reached the maximum that you can push contrast without introducing issues.
3) Try running in High lamp mode with the manual iris fully closed. This most likely is best configuration for maximizing native CR. I would use this at times on my 95, but it results in half the brightness compared to using the auto iris so its a no-go for me. But if you have plenty of brightness to spare it could work out. Give it a try and see what you think - I'm curious to know how you like it.