Been out of the buying loop for a long while - is 3D now worth the upgrade? - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 07:43 AM
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I disagree, there are many inexpensive ways to get 3D, less than $500. Also, the Benq W7000 is an excellent 2D and 3D projector. Just got to know where to look.
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post #92 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 08:57 AM
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Yep its very simple.

You want cinema 3-D, you buy DLP. Just like the theaters which also have DLP. With the correct glasses the 3-D is as good as the cinema. As stated several times in this thread, the BenQ W7000 is the under $5000 "hero" projector that gives the best balance of quality 2D & 3D. W7000 even has 4x-6x color wheel so RBE is minimal. Take a step back and try something different than the de-facto LCD/LCOS, I am quite sure you will be pleased.

99% of LCD/LCOS projectors are a disappointment with 3D (ghosting generally, headaches) and that is simply a limitation of the LCD/LCOS technology itself.

Vote with your wallet. Don't buy Cinavia-infected Blu-ray Discs! Why pay a premium for pseudo-lossless audio damaged by an intrusive watermark in the audible spectrum?
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post #93 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruined View Post

Yep its very simple.
You want cinema 3-D, you buy DLP. Just like the theaters which also have DLP. With the correct glasses the 3-D is as good as the cinema. As stated several times in this thread, the BenQ W7000 is the under $5000 "hero" projector that gives the best balance of quality 2D & 3D. W7000 even has 4x-6x color wheel so RBE is minimal. Take a step back and try something different than the de-facto LCD/LCOS, I am quite sure you will be pleased.
99% of LCD/LCOS projectors are a disappointment with 3D (ghosting generally, headaches) and that is simply a limitation of the LCD/LCOS technology itself.
I guess the 5010 must be in the 1% since I, nor anyone who has viewed 3D in my home seen any 3D ghosting on any movies we've watched.
*I Epson 3D glasses.

The only thing true about your DLP theater and home comparison is they are the same technology.
After that, they are no where near the same or equal.
Theater quality DLP projectors are 3 panels, so no color wheel (Rainbows can't ever occur) are needed and in some cases(IIRC) use dual projection for 3D output.

Let's also not forget the high fan noise & heat that comes with DLP projectors, which is not desired by most.

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post #94 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruined View Post

.
99% of LCD/LCOS projectors are a disappointment with 3D (ghosting generally, headaches) and that is simply a limitation of the LCD/LCOS technology itself.

Broad overarching generalizations. Yup, that is what makes forums great.

I am very happy with my SonyHW30 for 3D. Not perfect, but very enjoyable. Very little ghosting and no headaches. Must be in that tiny minority.

The Sony is not as nice as my RS15 was for 2D, but I am sure the next gen 3D will be better.

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post #95 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

You shouldn't believe everything you read. Until you have a A/B of both projectors, you probably shouldn't be giving advise on which one to buy.

Been enjoying life and the Epson, so haven't had a chance to catch up on this thread. Looks like others made a good case for why giving my advise is appropriate on AVS Forum.

For the record, I've owned JVCs and am happier with my Epson 6010 as an all around single projector solution. It's 2D and blacks are good/close enough and the brightness and lack of ghosting/eye fatigue of the Epson 3D is superior. I think if one is looking for a PJ with good 2D and 3D, the Epson is a good way to go. It's hard to beat for the price.

As for the Panny, as I said, I haven't seen one, but I've seen several previous 2D Panny's and was not impressed. Sony and JVCs were better. That's my opinion and I'm certainly entitled to express it here, just like everyone else. As for the AE7000, I know of others whose opinion I trust greatly with no skin in the game and they all like the Epson, JVC, and Sony PJs better. I mentioned the shootout thread and someone else has posted the link to it. It's a great source for comparing the 2012 3D projectors. I happen to believe what I've read in there. Zombie has owned a lot of PJs, knows how to calibrate and review them. Here's been nothing but spot on in his assessment of the Epson and JVC projectors, as well as, the Epson and MonsterVision 3D glasses. As such, I trust his and others opinions that I've had the good fortune to establish relationships with on AVS. Sometimes you can believe what you read provided you trust the source and they're doing the A/B. That's the point of shootouts and AVS in general.

Feel free to read my post again, but since I said that I've never seen the Panny, that should tell anyone reading my post to consider that when reading my post. I wasn't hiding that fact, but stating the positives of the PJs that I have seen and how quality 3D can be very rewarding in a home theater if you have the right setup. In MY humble opinion, the Epson and MonsterVision glasses are a great combo. Better than 3D IMAX in many ways. The Epson is bright in 3D which is extremely important. And again, IMHO, it's important to view movies like Avatar, Hugo, Prometheus and others shot in native 3D to fully appreciate the director's vision for the movie. For years, all I read was OAR, OAR, OAR and how the film must be seen in it's OAR. Well, the same applies to 3D. If it was filmed in 3D, then I want to see it in my bright, accurate 3D home theater setup. I can't wait to see Prometheus again in my HT in 3D come Oct. 9th. I own over fifty 3D titles and am very happy with most, especially when they were shot in native 3D. And I have yet to have anyone not be impressed with the 3D quality in my theater. It can be done right today and in 2.35:1 too.

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post #96 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by djenkins03 View Post

I agree with some of the other posts on here, If someone is posting something negative about 3d then they either dont have a decent set-up or they just dont like 3d movies at the theater. If you like watching 3d movies at the local theater or Imax then a good 3d projector is the way to go. Now as far as 3d tv's yeah not really worth it to me. But my epson 6010 with my 1.2 gain 110" screen is amazing. It is great on 2d and 3d. As far as 3d it blows the regular theaters away and really imax only beats it because of sheer size. If you want a budget projector that is amazing in 2d and 3d then the epson 5010 or 6010 is the way to go. I know some people are just die hard for certain brands, but I watched my projector at a local custom install store and also watched the high end 3d jvc which was waaayyyy more expensive. I could have bought any projector they had, but I honestly think the epson blew the others away especially in dynamic mode set to eco. In dynamic mode, in my theater room this thing looks as clear and bright as a plasma or led tv. Now granted they had some projectors that were upwards of $20,000 that were amazing too, but I just cant see spending that kind of money. Especially when this epson is performing so good.

Ditto! I couldn't agree more!

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post #97 of 141 Old 06-19-2012, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TowerGrove View Post

My family has the Panasonic ae7000 3D projector and we are very happy with it. 3D and 2D are of very good quality.

Same here. I needed to upgrade from my PT-AE3000U and just finished installing the PT-AE7000U. I wasn't looking for 3D but everything seems to have it anyway. However - it's astonishing. MUCH better than 3D at the movies.

3D has always seemed kind of gimmicky for me. Too much effort to put on the glasses. So, I don't think I'll be watching much 3D content but the kids really like it. They keep poking at the air in front of them trying to touch the characters. I built the theater for them anyway so I'm glad they like it.

The projector itself is phenomenal and a big improvement over the 3000. The image is very bright and noticeably sharper, the fan is silent, and the lamp is supposed to last 4000 hours in normal mode. Very nice.
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post #98 of 141 Old 06-20-2012, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Mike, which DLP "light cannon" with auto lens shift would you recommend? I have access to some 2.5 gain screen material. I really want something as flexible as the Panny, but bright enough to comfortably accomodate both 3D and 2D.

Auto lens shift is the problem. I was more referring to the W7000 having a lens shift range that works with the High Power screen.

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post #99 of 141 Old 06-20-2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Auto lens shift is the problem. I was more referring to the W7000 having a lens shift range that works with the High Power screen.

I understand. Hopefully an "all in one" solution is in the works. Something with the lumen output of the W7000 and the auto lens shift of the Panny and maybe a culmination of other favorable features.

I personally plan on using my projector primarily for 2D viewing, but plan to occasionally view 3D. I've already bought a scope screen so auto lens shift is a must for my particular application. No, I am not willing to drop $XXXX on an anamorphic lens and $XXX on a masking system. Given the pace that HT gear is evolving, I have to assume that in the next 3-4 years the tech is going to be absolutely incredible...

 

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post #100 of 141 Old 06-20-2012, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I understand. Hopefully an "all in one" solution is in the works. Something with the lumen output of the W7000 and the auto lens shift of the Panny and maybe a culmination of other favorable features.
I personally plan on using my projector primarily for 2D viewing, but plan to occasionally view 3D. I've already bought a scope screen so auto lens shift is a must for my particular application. No, I am not willing to drop $XXXX on an anamorphic lens and $XXX on a masking system. Given the pace that HT gear is evolving, I have to assume that in the next 3-4 years the tech is going to be absolutely incredible...

Use of a scope screen will always have the issue of side bars when displaying 16:9 (or worse, 4:3). Use of masking is an option regardless of choice for scope projection (auto-lens-zoom/shift vs. A-lens). The darker the black "floor" of your projector and your environment, the less critical it is to have side masking. I do not use masking in my CIH setup and haven't felt the need to do so with my JVCs (and even with my Epson now). It's a matter of preference and how much you want to spend for "better". I haven't even felt the need to make some black velvet panels that I can easily hang at the start of a movie as a cheap solution.

If someone wants a great 2D picture using a zoom solution for scope, the most recent generation of JVCs provide that feature and have great blacks such that masking is not needed. And the JVCs do support 3D as well, they're just not the best at it. All-in-one is great to hope for and better is always around the corner in this hobby, but why wait? Life is too short.

[Edit} P.S, you keep mentioning "light canon" and follow that up with DLP. Hopefully, you do realize that the Epson is one of the best "light cannons" for 2D and 3D with good CR. But like the W7000 or any DLP (AFAIK), it doesn't provide the auto-lens-shift/zoom feature like a Panny or JVC. However, the 6010 does provide stretch settings to work well with an A-lens. If you want zoom, you need to limit your choices to those PJs that have that feature. Or use an A-lens.

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post #101 of 141 Old 06-20-2012, 09:28 PM
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There is one solution to the 16:9 black bar on native 2.35 screen problem.
A person can buy a motorized screen and have a smaller native 2.35 screen that is slightly higher from the ground, but then have the 16:9 screen as they lower it all the way. This works with any projector that can do vertical digital image movements (not even lens shift) or ones with motorized lens memory within the 16:9 area (Mits hc4000, Panny, JVC, and some others).

I always wanted to do this but I was always afraid it would wear the motor out on the screen.


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post #102 of 141 Old 06-20-2012, 10:26 PM
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Thats exactly what I do. I use a fixed frame neutral 100in screen that I use most of the time. Then I was my HP electric screen just for movies on the JVC. It's a 16:9 119in screen. I just raise it up for 2.4:1 movies and so on. Best of all worlds for me.
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post #103 of 141 Old 06-21-2012, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I understand. Hopefully an "all in one" solution is in the works. Something with the lumen output of the W7000 and the auto lens shift of the Panny and maybe a culmination of other favorable features.
I personally plan on using my projector primarily for 2D viewing, but plan to occasionally view 3D. I've already bought a scope screen so auto lens shift is a must for my particular application. No, I am not willing to drop $XXXX on an anamorphic lens and $XXX on a masking system. Given the pace that HT gear is evolving, I have to assume that in the next 3-4 years the tech is going to be absolutely incredible...

Don't know what is going to happen at CEDIA, but right now you would need to pair a Lumagen Mini 3D with a projector like the Epson 5010 to be able to do the zoom method for CIH by remote control.

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post #104 of 141 Old 06-21-2012, 09:41 PM
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I have the Epson 9000/6010 in my setup now, this thing is bright. I would say the the 3D is as bright as the Pana ae7000 is in 2D. It had no problem filling up my 160" HP screen in 3D thx mode with glasses set to normal. 3D is good as far as 3D goes, those extra lumens really help, however the image quality does take a serious hit, the colours and contrast are no where near as good as it is in 2D. I guess that's how Epson acheive bright 3D, the projector is tweaked to give max brightness at the expense of colour and contrast. The Pana ae7000 on the other hand doesn't use 3D picture modes, it siimply switches the image from 2D to 3D, so the image quality is the same minus any effect the glasses might have but of course the brightness drops dramatically, unlike the Epson's brightness which doesn't seem drop too much when switching from 2d thx mode to 3D. The Epson has less ghosting aswell, it's not entirely free of it but enough that it's basically a non issue, I think the Pana has a bit too much ghosting even when it's set correctly and warmed up.

So my opinion of 3D still hasn't changed, the Epson's 3D and 2D is very good, better than the Panasonic but I don't really see the point of watching something in 3D when the image quality is worse or dim and the veiwing is uncomfortable. It's subjective I know but that has been my experience so far. I'm keeping the Epson because of it's 2D performance but I can't see myself using 3D on it, it's fun to play with but I don't think it's a good way to watch movies.
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post #105 of 141 Old 06-22-2012, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by nirvy111 View Post

I have the Epson 9000/6010 in my setup now, this thing is bright. I would say the the 3D is as bright as the Pana ae7000 is in 2D. It had no problem filling up my 160" HP screen in 3D thx mode with glasses set to normal. 3D is good as far as 3D goes, those extra lumens really help, however the image quality does take a serious hit, the colours and contrast are no where near as good as it is in 2D. I guess that's how Epson acheive bright 3D, the projector is tweaked to give max brightness at the expense of colour and contrast. The Pana ae7000 on the other hand doesn't use 3D picture modes, it siimply switches the image from 2D to 3D, so the image quality is the same minus any effect the glasses might have but of course the brightness drops dramatically, unlike the Epson's brightness which doesn't seem drop too much when switching from 2d thx mode to 3D. The Epson has less ghosting aswell, it's not entirely free of it but enough that it's basically a non issue, I think the Pana has a bit too much ghosting even when it's set correctly and warmed up.

So my opinion of 3D still hasn't changed, the Epson's 3D and 2D is very good, better than the Panasonic but I don't really see the point of watching something in 3D when the image quality is worse or dim and the veiwing is uncomfortable. It's subjective I know but that has been my experience so far. I'm keeping the Epson because of it's 2D performance but I can't see myself using 3D on it, it's fun to play with but I don't think it's a good way to watch movies.

The regular 3D Cinema mode should look ok in regard to color. The 3D dynamic 'torch mode' which puts out close to 2000 lumens does blow out the colors with a shift towards green. This mode can be calibrated to D65 and drops the lumens to about 1400, still higher than the others models out right now.

I only had the 5010, so not sure what 3D THX mode is doing with the colors.
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post #106 of 141 Old 06-23-2012, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by nirvy111 View Post

I have the Epson 9000/6010 in my setup now, this thing is bright. I would say the the 3D is as bright as the Pana ae7000 is in 2D. It had no problem filling up my 160" HP screen in 3D thx mode with glasses set to normal. 3D is good as far as 3D goes, those extra lumens really help, however the image quality does take a serious hit, the colours and contrast are no where near as good as it is in 2D. I guess that's how Epson acheive bright 3D, the projector is tweaked to give max brightness at the expense of colour and contrast. The Pana ae7000 on the other hand doesn't use 3D picture modes, it siimply switches the image from 2D to 3D, so the image quality is the same minus any effect the glasses might have but of course the brightness drops dramatically, unlike the Epson's brightness which doesn't seem drop too much when switching from 2d thx mode to 3D. The Epson has less ghosting aswell, it's not entirely free of it but enough that it's basically a non issue, I think the Pana has a bit too much ghosting even when it's set correctly and warmed up.
So my opinion of 3D still hasn't changed, the Epson's 3D and 2D is very good, better than the Panasonic but I don't really see the point of watching something in 3D when the image quality is worse or dim and the veiwing is uncomfortable. It's subjective I know but that has been my experience so far. I'm keeping the Epson because of it's 2D performance but I can't see myself using 3D on it, it's fun to play with but I don't think it's a good way to watch movies.

As Jason said, you can always calibrate the Epson to achieve the most accurate picture at the expense of some lumens. It's clear from your experience that the Epson is clearly better than the Panny in 3D and sounds like it's better in 2D too, if I'm reading your post correctly. Apparently 3D viewing isn't for you, but at least you have one of the best valued PJs for 3D, so if you do want to watch a movie that was made for 3D like Avatar or Prometheus, you'll be able to and the picture will be bright enough to actually see.

As for keeping the Epson just for 2D, not sure if that the best choice for projector then. I'd stick with my JVC RS40 if all that I was interested in was 2D only. It's not worlds apart, but it still is a better 2D projector than the Epson because of the native black level and LCOS fill (not factoring in any lamp issues).

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post #107 of 141 Old 06-23-2012, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post

What could out perform the AE7000U from a 3D/2D performance standpoint that includes an auto lens shift feature?
Thoughts?

Nothing in this price range unless you use an HTPC as your bluray player (then you can do it), the easiest would be to get a Sony vw95es (has CIH) or a --- Sony hw30 (no CIH) or Epson 5010 + lumagen (adds CIH) ---, or for an even cheaper option, run the Blurays through the HTPC. Either an HTPC or Lumagen can handle the aspect resizing.

If using an HTPC as your bluray player, then I'd say go for the Sony hw30 or Epson 5010 and use the HTPC to do the aspect switching (you don't need motorized lens shift to do aspect switching, only pixel position swapping which any HTPC can do). Both those projectors will out-perform the Panny in both 2d and 3d...

The last and final option is to buy 2 projectors. For instance if you are mainly concerned about 3D gaming, then any 3D 720p capable projector like a Benq w710st or the Optoma GT750 would work (under $800). The only flaws with these lower-end DLP's is more rainbow effect if you are sensitive, and for 3D movies the image isn't quite as good as the more expensive 3D projectors.


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post #108 of 141 Old 06-23-2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

As Jason said, you can always calibrate the Epson to achieve the most accurate picture at the expense of some lumens. It's clear from your experience that the Epson is clearly better than the Panny in 3D and sounds like it's better in 2D too, if I'm reading your post correctly. Apparently 3D viewing isn't for you, but at least you have one of the best valued PJs for 3D, so if you do want to watch a movie that was made for 3D like Avatar or Prometheus, you'll be able to and the picture will be bright enough to actually see.
As for keeping the Epson just for 2D, not sure if that the best choice for projector then. I'd stick with my JVC RS40 if all that I was interested in was 2D only. It's not worlds apart, but it still is a better 2D projector than the Epson because of the native black level and LCOS fill (not factoring in any lamp issues).

Yes the Epson is good step up from the Pana ae7000 with a few exceptions. Motion on the Pana in 3D is better, it's smoother with less jitter. Screen door effect is a slight problem on the Epson aswell, having come from the Pana with it's smooth screen tech, I can see a bit of sde on the Epson, particularly on solid white objects which don't look as solid as they did on the Pana. The other thing that I liked on the Pana was it's Detail Clarity function which was very effective, it made the image alot sharper and more detailed without introducing much artifacts. The Epson's equivalent Super Resolution doesn't seem to work nearly aswell. Technically the Epson is a sharper projector than the Pana because it doesn't use smooth screen but with the Detail Clarity function on the Pana turned up I was getting a sharper image that looked a bit more 3 dimensional at times. Maybe an external image processor could address this.
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post #109 of 141 Old 06-23-2012, 11:21 PM
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post #110 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 02:33 AM
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The Darby Darblet...

I just ordered one. Looks like it might do the job for not much money.
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post #111 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 02:44 AM
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Does anyone actually have them in stock?


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post #112 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 04:17 AM
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Does anyone actually have them in stock?

No. I preordered, it said stock will be available or due on 25 of this month.
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post #113 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 06:42 AM
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The Darbee's sell out fast. I added one to my system and you can clearly see an improvement. I was concerned with placing another device in the chain, since I already have a Lumagen, but I have had zero problems with both in the chain.

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post #114 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 08:52 AM
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The Darbee's sell out fast. I added one to my system and you can clearly see an improvement. I was concerned with placing another device in the chain, since I already have a Lumagen, but I have had zero problems with both in the chain.

I had a bunch of problems when I put my Darbee in the chain. It turned out I had subpar cables. Now nothing against Monoprice, but apparently despite the video looking OK, 50' of their 22AWG HDMI cable (that's really only Cat-1) is too much to ask for all the handshaking to play nicely. Replaced it with a 25' Cat-2/High Speed certified BJC Series-1 and all is great now.

I must have had good timing when I ordered mine a couple weeks ago because it shipped right away. And leave it to AVS to triple-box the Darbees when then send them out. biggrin.gif

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post #115 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 11:47 AM
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Mike, I know you have both the Lumagen and the Darbee, but how to they compare against one another. Say with HDTV and blu ray. I bet together they are a lethal combination.
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post #116 of 141 Old 06-24-2012, 04:59 PM
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As far as the Panny 7000 vs. others, the reason most of us did not spend much time with it to compare 3D is because the brightness isn't enough in its best modes.


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post #117 of 141 Old 06-26-2012, 11:31 AM
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There is one solution to the 16:9 black bar on native 2.35 screen problem.
A person can buy a motorized screen and have a smaller native 2.35 screen that is slightly higher from the ground, but then have the 16:9 screen as they lower it all the way. This works with any projector that can do vertical digital image movements (not even lens shift) or ones with motorized lens memory within the 16:9 area (Mits hc4000, Panny, JVC, and some others).
I always wanted to do this but I was always afraid it would wear the motor out on the screen.

Yes and no...depends on how you do it. Tricky part is that you can lower the 2.35:1 partly...but ideally the top of your image would have to be at the case itself to fully avoid "bars". Normally with retractable there are borders around the dies, bottom and top, but you would lose that in this case for 2.35:1.

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post #118 of 141 Old 06-27-2012, 07:26 PM
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I would buy a 16:9 motorized and raise it for 2.35, then let the projector itself project the 1" border that would normally be there since the black bars will overflow anyhow, definitely works better with outer masking. It might not be exactly as perfect as a native 2.35 screen, but close enough, unless I'm missing something (don't think so). With some designs using the case for the top border should be fine anyhow (or most of it), you are only losing 1 of 4 border areas. The side and bottom borders are still going to be there.

The projector needs the ability to change the Y position of the pixels either with lens memory or with digital shift within the 16:9 native image, so only certain projectors are going to work (that's the given). The Mits hc4000 is the lowest cost projector that has this ability intrinsic.


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Web Calculator v023 & v025
- Quick Peak at the new upcoming calculator
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post #119 of 141 Old 06-28-2012, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
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I would buy a 16:9 motorized and raise it for 2.35, then let the projector itself project the 1" border that would normally be there since the black bars will overflow anyhow, definitely works better with outer masking. It might not be exactly as perfect as a native 2.35 screen, but close enough, unless I'm missing something (don't think so). With some designs using the case for the top border should be fine anyhow (or most of it), you are only losing 1 of 4 border areas. The side and bottom borders are still going to be there.
The projector needs the ability to change the Y position of the pixels either with lens memory or with digital shift within the 16:9 native image, so only certain projectors are going to work (that's the given). The Mits hc4000 is the lowest cost projector that has this ability intrinsic.

I can envision this type of application and it just doesn't sound clean to me... You might only be losing 1 of 4 borders, but it sounds like your image is going to have to shift up if you have a ceiling mount drop type of projector if you don’t want to have the entire top black bar displayed on your screen material. So your image is going to have to shift really high, or the "black bar" overflow is going to flow on to your screen material on top and whatever you have in place below your bottom border. Meaning you will have a black bar on white screen material (top) and a black bar on your painted wall (or whatever else) you have below your screen to achieve a 2.35:1 image.

I personally am a nut for symmetry and that would bug the daylights out of me. I just bought a scope screen for my Panny and will be doing the install over the weekend. I would rather a smaller 16:9 image to fit within the scope screen and have the Panny zoom for the full 2.35:1 effect during movie playback. At some point in the near future I plan on fabricating magnetic velvet masking panels on top and below my screen for the black bar overflow when watching 2.35:1 content and some panels for the sides that I can simply move to cover the side black bars when I am watching 16:9 content.

 

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post #120 of 141 Old 06-28-2012, 09:14 AM
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I do the same exact thing with my electric screen. I just shift the image up so that the first bar is over the screen and the bottom bar is on my black wall. I can not see any bars on the top and bottom since my wall is black. It works perfect for me. Also, not every film is in the 2.4:1 format. So, it works out for me at least. I watch a lot of sports and play ps3 from time to time. I rather have a big 16:9 image rather than a really small image watching the game. So, it makes 3D better with the bigger picture.
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