Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 51 - AVS Forum
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post #1501 of 1856 Old 09-18-2013, 09:13 PM
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Well that's not good. Thoughts Mike?
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post #1502 of 1856 Old 09-18-2013, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nflguy View Post

Darbee Darblet worth the price tag when combined with this specific projector?

Yes. I have that combo.
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post #1503 of 1856 Old 09-19-2013, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nflguy View Post

If the top line is fine as is and the bottom line is fine (except the lower right). Then wouldn't moving the projector to fix the lower right screw up the lines that are okay now?

How much space is between your screen and the wall it is mounted on? Maybe that lower right corner is an inch or so further away from the wall which would distort that corner. If it's not totally flush against the wall, or even if it is, I would try pushing or pulling that corner of the screen towards or away from the wall with the test pattern up. See if it improves.
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post #1504 of 1856 Old 09-19-2013, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nflguy View Post

If the top line is fine as is and the bottom line is fine (except the lower right). Then wouldn't moving the projector to fix the lower right screw up the lines that are okay now?


...it appears to me you have a trapezoid shape image that is long on the right side and rotated slightly clockwise. The projector needs yaw adjustment to the left, lens shift adjustment to the right to bring back to screen center, and then roll the image counter clockwise very slightly to align with screen borders..

Are Eleven Channels Really Enough?

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post #1505 of 1856 Old 09-19-2013, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi View Post

...it appears to me you have a trapezoid shape image that is long on the right side and rotated slightly clockwise. The projector needs yaw adjustment to the left, lens shift adjustment to the right to bring back to screen center, and then roll the image counter clockwise very slightly to align with screen borders..

Exactly what I've been trying to say, but you say it so much better!

I'm just worried about the fact that the image doesn't start going off the screen until about the middle of the screen and then it curves. It think he should make sure the screen is flat.
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post #1506 of 1856 Old 09-19-2013, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi View Post

...it appears to me you have a trapezoid shape image that is long on the right side and rotated slightly clockwise. The projector needs yaw adjustment to the left, lens shift adjustment to the right to bring back to screen center, and then roll the image counter clockwise very slightly to align with screen borders..

I agree. It also looks like the bottom right corner of the screen needs to be shimmed out from the wall a slight bit. That would take care of 90% of your problems.

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post #1507 of 1856 Old 09-20-2013, 06:14 AM
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Nice deals currently on this projector. Call us for details.

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post #1508 of 1856 Old 09-21-2013, 05:59 AM
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Hey Mike, I got my 4810 yesterday, that was sure quick, about 30 hrs from order to delivery cool.gif

guess it helps that JVC is here in GA, about 45 miles from my place biggrin.gif

On first impression, this is a great projector. One of the things I'd been holding out for a decade or more was a digital that had near-invisible pixel structure, and the e-Shift2 does that very well. This is important to me as I have an old Stewart AT screen with 'micro-perf' but the holes would cause moire with older digitals.

The 4810 came with perfect panel alignment, only needed to do +2H and +7V on the sub-pixel alignment for red.

And coming from my G70 CRT, I have to say the black levels are very good on this PJ. Watching scenes from ST into Darkness (and appropriate title to test black with wink.gif ) displays an impressive mix of inky black with razor sharp stars.

Looking forward to getting it ceiling mounted and calibrated over this weekend.
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post #1509 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 06:32 PM
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I need to get a 3D emitter and 3 pairs of glasses for this projector. Any recommendations for make/models?
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post #1510 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 07:53 PM
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Hi
I bought 4810 through AVS and received it a week back. At this time as the new HT room is not ready I have been testing the projector in my current HT room. I am coming from a Mitsubishi HC6800 in to JVC. I see the JVC having amazing black level and as I am a fan of sci-fi movies it matches well with my interests. Having said that I have a few questions. These are in comparison with the HC6800.
  1. When I try to focus 4810 I some how feel that it is not focussing like the Mitsubishi. There seem to be a really slight off glow on the letters. Is this normal.
  2. I have an Oppo 93 and with JVC I notice that the "P"s in the Oppo logo extend further down. It is really light white color. I am attaching a picture and you might be able to see the glow under two "P"s. Is this normal? Do you think this will be fixed (if it is error) if I do a calibration. Just trying to see whether it is a defect or not.

BTW, these are with the default Film mode and MPC settings. The screen I am currently using is Elite Screen Acoustic Pro 1080p. I will be moving to a Seymour Enlightor 4k once the main theater is complete. I was thinking this could be due to screen difference but wanted to confirm.




Please let me know your thoughts.
Thank you
-Sen
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post #1511 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 08:00 PM
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Do you have e-shift on? I've read that if you have the resolution setting higher than 30 it can create halo-ing artifacts. I recently purchased a X55R. I have some pretty big expectations about e-shift and what it can do to the image and perception to motion handling. smile.gif
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post #1512 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 08:13 PM
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I have it at the default setting. I believe it is in Film mode with default settings of 40 for enhance, dynamic contrast etc (I think). Do I need to reduce it?. First of all, I was even wondering whether I am really seeing the glow or not. Is what is represented in the sample images looks like a glow that should not be there ?
Thank you
-Sen
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post #1513 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 08:22 PM
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Just wanna share some of my thought after seeing the Sony 1000 in two local highend AV store. I, and even my wife, wasn't impressed at all when compare to our calibrated RS4810 Eshift + Darbee. And especially after I told her how much it cost.
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post #1514 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Just wanna share some of my thought after seeing the Sony 1000 in two local highend AV store. I, and even my wife, wasn't impressed at all when compare to our calibrated RS4810 Eshift + Darbee. And especially after I told her how much it cost.

Both are very similar in PQ in the right setup
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post #1515 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gskinusa View Post

I have it at the default setting. I believe it is in Film mode with default settings of 40 for enhance, dynamic contrast etc (I think). Do I need to reduce it?. First of all, I was even wondering whether I am really seeing the glow or not. Is what is represented in the sample images looks like a glow that should not be there ?
Thank you
-Sen

I don't know if you're saying you are trying to adjust focus on letters in source signals with e-shift on? If so that would not be the way to do it. Turn e-shift off, or maybe it is already off when you go into the focus mode, and get real close to the screen so you can see and make the 1080P pixel edges as sharp as possible over as much of the screen from the middle as possible, using the remote control.
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post #1516 of 1856 Old 09-22-2013, 09:15 PM
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By the way, what E-shift,in film mode, settings are you all owners use?
Is somewhere written how the three options of Eshift affect image?
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post #1517 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gskinusa View Post

Hi
I bought 4810 through AVS and received it a week back. At this time as the new HT room is not ready I have been testing the projector in my current HT room. I am coming from a Mitsubishi HC6800 in to JVC. I see the JVC having amazing black level and as I am a fan of sci-fi movies it matches well with my interests. Having said that I have a few questions. These are in comparison with the HC6800.
  1. When I try to focus 4810 I some how feel that it is not focussing like the Mitsubishi. There seem to be a really slight off glow on the letters. Is this normal.
  2. I have an Oppo 93 and with JVC I notice that the "P"s in the Oppo logo extend further down. It is really light white color. I am attaching a picture and you might be able to see the glow under two "P"s. Is this normal? Do you think this will be fixed (if it is error) if I do a calibration. Just trying to see whether it is a defect or not.

BTW, these are with the default Film mode and MPC settings. The screen I am currently using is Elite Screen Acoustic Pro 1080p. I will be moving to a Seymour Enlightor 4k once the main theater is complete. I was thinking this could be due to screen difference but wanted to confirm.




Please let me know your thoughts.
Thank you
-Sen


All JVCs I have seen show an after-glow above and below the Oppo logo. Sometimes it extends in a vertical column below the P quite a way down the screen. It is to do with internal reflections within the lens assembly and varies depending on your lens position (e.g. lens shift). I wouldn't worry about it because you never see it in practical use within a movie. However, the recommendations to set focus with e-shift off is absolutely correct and you will find it very hard to get best focus with e-shift on. No calibration will reduce (or increase) the glow.....just put it out of your mind and don't fixate on it smile.gif
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post #1518 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnchalt View Post

By the way, what E-shift,in film mode, settings are you all owners use?
Is somewhere written how the three options of Eshift affect image?

The settings are directly related to your screensize and viewing distance. So there is no one-size fits all. However it is generally accepted that the best mode for blu-rays is Film. Some leave it at its default 50,50,50, and others like to lower it. It has been well known that e-shift is NOT just an upscaler to 4K. In particular it is there to provide a form of edge and contrast enhancement. If you set all the values to zero you run the risk of seeing a softer image than with e-shift off. However, some find the algorithms in e-shift 2 to be a bit aggressive and preferred e-shift 1 which was more moderate and had less side effects. Personally, I like e-shift 2. As I have a smaller screensize I found e-shift 1 to be noticeable and effective but I always wanted a bit more "zing" and e-shift 2 gives me that. It may be that it has been optimized for Japanese households which generally have the smaller screensizes whereas in the US much larger screen sizes are more common. I have seen all sorts of values set for the parameters, from people who do like 0,0,0, to those that like 20,0,0, and many who just leave it on 50,50,50. The first two options are fairly obvious what they do and you can see them onscreen very easily. The one that is much more difficult to see is the softening option which makes out of focus parts of the scene even more out of focus (to increase dimensionality in the parts of the scene which are focused). Not all the presets for e-shift do anything with this option which makes it very confusing. Film mode DOES utilize this third parameter, but high resolution does not.

This is generally how I use it
Blu-ray, games -> Film mode (default)
Satellite HD - > High Resolution (with levels knocked down to 30)
Satellite SD -> SD (don't underestimate this mode...it does wonders to SD material)
Blu-ray 3D -> High resolution (with levels knocked down to 30)
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post #1519 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 05:13 AM
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Since a frequent question is about ceiling mounts, I wanted to add that I went with the Peerless PRG universal mount, and it was breeze to install.
The universal bracket fits the 4810 just perfectly, and the only thing missing from the stock kit are long enough screws for the PJ brackets. But that's easily fixed by picking up four M5-20 or 30mm long screws at ACE or HomeDepot. I used the 30mm ones for better hold on the PJ, but the 20's do reach.

Using a level, I adjusted tilt and yaw until the bubbles were centered. then when i fired up the PJ for the first time, I had perfect alignment with the screen. Only required vertical lens shift to place the image on the screen itself. Set focus, and boom, done.

Coming from a CRT, where even after super-careful mechanical setup, one can spend hours on alignment and registration, it was such a pleasure to be up and running within 15 minutes of hanging the projector.
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post #1520 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 07:21 AM
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RonF, JonStatt
Thanks for the replies and thoughts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

I don't know if you're saying you are trying to adjust focus on letters in source signals with e-shift on? If so that would not be the way to do it. Turn e-shift off, or maybe it is already off when you go into the focus mode, and get real close to the screen so you can see and make the 1080P pixel edges as sharp as possible over as much of the screen from the middle as possible, using the remote control.

I read through this thread before and did the focus set while the eshift was off. Then I turned on the eshift. I did the focus like you have highlighted, basically go close to the screen and make the pixels as sharp as possible. I was using the "Focus" and "Lens" letters to get the pixels as sharp as I could. The glow I was seeing is after I did all those. I thought my mitsubishi had better focus but now based on the eshift explanation it makes sense that once you turn on it gets the glow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

All JVCs I have seen show an after-glow above and below the Oppo logo. Sometimes it extends in a vertical column below the P quite a way down the screen. It is to do with internal reflections within the lens assembly and varies depending on your lens position (e.g. lens shift). I wouldn't worry about it because you never see it in practical use within a movie. However, the recommendations to set focus with e-shift off is absolutely correct and you will find it very hard to get best focus with e-shift on. No calibration will reduce (or increase) the glow.....just put it out of your mind and don't fixate on it smile.gif

OK, that is what I was assuming about the after-glow. As I do not have that much glow with my Mitsubishi I was not sure whether it is common with JVC or not. Regarding the "P" being long, yeah I was little concerned about that thinking may be something need to be calibrated but your explanation helps with that. Currently, I have the projector behind my 2nd row seat on a shelf at the head height. I will be having the projector on a shelf in the new room that is build down from the ceiling, so may be the lens shift would be little different with that. Anyway, as it is not causing any problems with the movie content I should be good.

As I have been reading through this thread and somethings are being highlighted, I was trying to make sure the projector does not have anything that would bother me in the long run. I am sure I can live with the glow as it does not bother me. I have to say the picture is really good and the black levels when compared to my old mitsubishi (HC6800) it is amazing. I have been playing the Fifth Element initial scenes with the space ship and the prometheus scene with the spaceship flying left to right of the screen again and again and enjoying the black level and detail that I did not notice with the other projector. I did have the Mitsubishi calibrated professionally but still this uncalibrated 4810 looks really good.

One thing I notice is more grain and some blu-rays do not look as crisp as others. Like for example, Avengers, Captain America, Alien series all look really sharp and not that grainy. On the other hand LOTR (I tested only the Fellowship of the Ring) was not that sharp and I was having the feeling of watching a really old movie. I think once I had the projector calibrated it might improve but still was not happy with the LOTR blu-ray and this projector combination. Just to clarify, I am not implying the projector is bad just that the LOTR is not meeting my expectation when compared to the other movies.

Anyway, thanks to both for the clarification and putting my mind at peace:). These are fun times having a new toy and testing all the movies in the collection:)

-Sen
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post #1521 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonFo View Post

Since a frequent question is about ceiling mounts, I wanted to add that I went with the Peerless PRG universal mount, and it was breeze to install.
The universal bracket fits the 4810 just perfectly, and the only thing missing from the stock kit are long enough screws for the PJ brackets. But that's easily fixed by picking up four M5-20 or 30mm long screws at ACE or HomeDepot. I used the 30mm ones for better hold on the PJ, but the 20's do reach.

Using a level, I adjusted tilt and yaw until the bubbles were centered. then when i fired up the PJ for the first time, I had perfect alignment with the screen. Only required vertical lens shift to place the image on the screen itself. Set focus, and boom, done.

Coming from a CRT, where even after super-careful mechanical setup, one can spend hours on alignment and registration, it was such a pleasure to be up and running within 15 minutes of hanging the projector.

I have a quick question regarding using projector mounts. I have used projector mounts but I did not like the pain of aligning them with different projectors and if something is little off it bother me a lot. So this time for the new home theater, I am planning on going with an open box set up hung from the ceiling so I can place any projector like on a shelf mount. I am planning on having a movable rack in the shelf upon which the Projector would be and this way I can move it back or forward depending on the throw of the projector (when I change projectors). Does anyone see an advantage or disadvantage of this kind of set up when compared to the upside down set up used with majority of the ceiling mounts.
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post #1522 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 08:11 AM
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When people refer to e-shift are they talking about the following settings:

Film mode, High Resolution etc?
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post #1523 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

The settings are directly related to your screensize and viewing distance. So there is no one-size fits all. However it is generally accepted that the best mode for blu-rays is Film. Some leave it at its default 50,50,50, and others like to lower it. It has been well known that e-shift is NOT just an upscaler to 4K. In particular it is there to provide a form of edge and contrast enhancement. If you set all the values to zero you run the risk of seeing a softer image than with e-shift off. However, some find the algorithms in e-shift 2 to be a bit aggressive and preferred e-shift 1 which was more moderate and had less side effects. Personally, I like e-shift 2. As I have a smaller screensize I found e-shift 1 to be noticeable and effective but I always wanted a bit more "zing" and e-shift 2 gives me that. It may be that it has been optimized for Japanese households which generally have the smaller screensizes whereas in the US much larger screen sizes are more common. I have seen all sorts of values set for the parameters, from people who do like 0,0,0, to those that like 20,0,0, and many who just leave it on 50,50,50. The first two options are fairly obvious what they do and you can see them onscreen very easily. The one that is much more difficult to see is the softening option which makes out of focus parts of the scene even more out of focus (to increase dimensionality in the parts of the scene which are focused). Not all the presets for e-shift do anything with this option which makes it very confusing. Film mode DOES utilize this third parameter, but high resolution does not.

This is generally how I use it
Blu-ray, games -> Film mode (default)
Satellite HD - > High Resolution (with levels knocked down to 30)
Satellite SD -> SD (don't underestimate this mode...it does wonders to SD material)
Blu-ray 3D -> High resolution (with levels knocked down to 30)

Hi Jon
I'm sure I have missed the part I bolded about the "softening control" in e-Shift2 somewhere by someone but I bet there are many others besides me. Thank you for that information. I will have to play with it specifically now as I had NO clue and am a fan of bokeh in photography and the separation and depth it can create.
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post #1524 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nflguy View Post

When people refer to e-shift are they talking about the following settings:

Film mode, High Resolution etc?

Or Off, which switches off the e-shift mechanism altogether. On the projector its called MPC. But in the marketing its called e-shift.
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post #1525 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Or Off, which switches off the e-shift mechanism altogether. On the projector its called MPC. But in the marketing its called e-shift.

So if you have it set to "high resolution" then e-shift is turned on?
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post #1526 of 1856 Old 09-23-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nflguy View Post

So if you have it set to "high resolution" then e-shift is turned on?

Yes, any preset value except off means that e-shift is turned on
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post #1527 of 1856 Old 09-24-2013, 11:12 PM
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Anyone try out 3D on this projector? Is it worth the high price for the RF glasses?
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post #1528 of 1856 Old 09-27-2013, 06:59 AM
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Quick question. I have been reading about manually controlling the Iris but I could not find where the setting is. Can someone please point me to the menu location to do that.
Thank you
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post #1529 of 1856 Old 09-27-2013, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by gskinusa View Post

Quick question. I have been reading about manually controlling the Iris but I could not find where the setting is. Can someone please point me to the menu location to do that.
Thank you

It's under the advanced settings. I believe it's called lens aperture if I'm not mistaken.
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post #1530 of 1856 Old 09-27-2013, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gskinusa View Post

Quick question. I have been reading about manually controlling the Iris but I could not find where the setting is. Can someone please point me to the menu location to do that.
Thank you

Never mind the question. I found it in the manual (Lens Aperture).
Thanks
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