Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 61 - AVS Forum
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post #1801 of 1856 Old 05-09-2014, 09:23 PM
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post #1802 of 1856 Old 05-09-2014, 09:34 PM
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And one iris all the way open 100 ireu3utugaz.jpg

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post #1803 of 1856 Old 05-09-2014, 09:35 PM
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These actually look yellowish in real life.

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post #1804 of 1856 Old 05-10-2014, 12:56 PM
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Ron or anyone else,

Do you notice any very subtle swirling waves in the picture on a 100 IRE pattern? It almost looks like it's from the front exhaust of the RS4810, but not sure. I start to see them after the projector has been on for 5-10 minutes. My projector does not get terribly warm, however, the one side (same side as lamp) does get warmer than the opposite side. That side of the exhaust port is almost about 8" off the corner of the wall. I really cannot see this effect during real images, but just curious what I am seeing and if it means anything.

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post #1805 of 1856 Old 05-11-2014, 01:12 AM
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Perhaps I am just seeing the front heat exhaust getting in the view of the lens while projecting.

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post #1806 of 1856 Old 05-11-2014, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Perhaps I am just seeing the front heat exhaust getting in the view of the lens while projecting.
That's the only thing I can think of. Maybe because there is a wall there to the side of it. The vents angle out so to avoid that. But if there is a wall there it would bounce off that wall and then go in front of the projected image.
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post #1807 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 09:08 AM
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post #1808 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 09:30 AM
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Few Quick Questions:

1) projector reviews reports a yellow tint on skin tones, even after calibration. Is this something you all are seeing?

2) What does the Axis setting in the CMS do? Not a typical CMS control. Do you use it or leave it alone when calibrating? I will be using Calman 4.x and an i1Pro for reference.

3) As a starting point I was thinking of using user1, but what color profile is best to start with?

4) Does the info screen show the frame rate as older models did (i.e. 1080p24)

5) What HDMI setting is recommend. I have used extended on my previous JVC's and adjusted brightness and contrast accordingly.
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post #1809 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 10:27 AM
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My unit was calibrated by Chad B, so I am not sure of all of the CMS adjustments. He did use the Stage profile on mine.

Skin tones look excellent and natural. I've never seen any kind of yellow or unnatural look. Very good color, overall. My basis for comparison would be my Panasonic 65" VT60 plasma which has reference quality color (also calibrated by Chad).

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post #1810 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 12:32 PM
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And one iris all the way open 100 ireu3utugaz.jpg

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No help with the pictures? Just wondering what to even call it when I call for service.
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post #1811 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 05:20 PM
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^
Vertical yellow streaking??
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post #1812 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 05:32 PM
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^
Vertical yellow streaking??
I noticed it in a all blue field also. This is what has me stumped.
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post #1813 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 05:43 PM
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No help with the pictures? Just wondering what to even call it when I call for service.

You've been JAMMED!

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post #1814 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

My unit was calibrated by Chad B, so I am not sure of all of the CMS adjustments. He did use the Stage profile on mine.

Skin tones look excellent and natural. I've never seen any kind of yellow or unnatural look. Very good color, overall. My basis for comparison would be my Panasonic 65" VT60 plasma which has reference quality color (also calibrated by Chad).

Thanks! I've seen others use the stage color profile as a starting point for cms calibration. Anyone else use this, or recommend another?

Would it be best to measure each color profile using user 1 and see which has the lowest errors or widest gamut points?
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post #1815 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Thanks! I've seen others use the stage color profile as a starting point for cms calibration. Anyone else use this, or recommend another?

Would it be best to measure each color profile using user 1 and see which has the lowest errors or widest gamut points?

I do recall he checked/ran the numbers on each profile and Stage was the best starting point.

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post #1816 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 07:45 PM
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I think mine was stage also. Mine was calibrated by zombie10k here on avs.
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post #1817 of 1856 Old 06-10-2014, 08:30 PM
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Anyone notice the yellowish tint on skin tones that projector reviews noted? Hoping this is not the case.
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post #1818 of 1856 Old 06-11-2014, 02:57 AM
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No yellowish skin tones here.
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post #1819 of 1856 Old 06-12-2014, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by rhale64L7 

No help with the pictures? Just wondering what to even call it when I call for service.


You've been JAMMED!

Yep

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post #1820 of 1856 Old 06-13-2014, 09:42 PM
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Well I broke down and snagged a used 4810 here on the forum. I'm currently using a Mits HC9000 that I've racked up a whopping 200 hrs on lol. I'm hoping this will be a noticeable step up over the Mits (which honestly I was pretty happy with).

Only thing I'm worried about is the brightness. I'm firing onto an AT 1.0 gain screen from 20' away. It's a dedicated theater but I'm hoping I'm not taking a step back in brightness compared to the Mits, as it was right on the edge IMO.

I do like the fact my AT lens mount will bolt right up to the JVC, whereas with the Mits I had to mount it in front of the pj.

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post #1821 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 06:23 AM
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Can someone check something for me please.

I noticed last night that my horizontal lens shift has a bit of take up before it starts moving. So if you press and hold left or right, you hear the motor start but it takes a second for the lens to move. Where I notice this is when I need to tap the left or right buttons and I hear the motor but there is no movement until like 15 clicks. Doesn't do this vertically. My rs40 didn't have any take up.

Wondering if this is normal.
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post #1822 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 08:10 AM
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Well I broke down and snagged a used 4810 here on the forum. I'm currently using a Mits HC9000 that I've racked up a whopping 200 hrs on lol. I'm hoping this will be a noticeable step up over the Mits (which honestly I was pretty happy with).

Only thing I'm worried about is the brightness. I'm firing onto an AT 1.0 gain screen from 20' away. It's a dedicated theater but I'm hoping I'm not taking a step back in brightness compared to the Mits, as it was right on the edge IMO.

I do like the fact my AT lens mount will bolt right up to the JVC, whereas with the Mits I had to mount it in front of the pj.
I have been running my 4810 on high lamp for about 400 hrs now on a 10 foot wide seymour xd screen in a dedicated theater and it is plenty bright for me. The newer bulb lasts and lasts and I figure if I have to replace one every 1000 hrs it will be money well spent. Iris is at -13 I think.
One of the best improvements for me came when I moved from 2.2 to 2.4 gamma (and when I finally started using my panamorph 480). With the panamorph I was able to turn the e-shift off because of the extra resolution the lens provided, getting a more realistic, less digital looking image. Turning off eshift dramatically sharpened the picture.
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post #1823 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 08:18 AM
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I have been running my 4810 on high lamp for about 400 hrs now on a 10 foot wide seymour xd screen in a dedicated theater and it is plenty bright for me. The newer bulb lasts and lasts and I figure if I have to replace one every 1000 hrs it will be money well spent. Iris is at -13 I think.
One of the best improvements for me came when I moved from 2.2 to 2.4 gamma (and when I finally started using my panamorph 480). With the panamorph I was able to turn the e-shift off because of the extra resolution the lens provided, getting a more realistic, less digital looking image. Turning off eshift dramatically sharpened the picture.
I really hate running in high lamp mode, or being required to. My screen is also 10' wide (Seymour AV), and I have a very long throw. I don't know, I might end up sticking with the Mits. It is very sharp with good motion and the DI isn't very noticeable. It certainly isn't perfect, but I'd give up PQ in a couple areas for a bright sharp picture, which it does well.

I just don't get why after years and years JVC can't figure out how to get more brightness. Even a couple hundred lumens would make a difference. It seems we havn't seen much improvement since the days of my RS20.

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post #1824 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 10:29 AM
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Can someone check something for me please.

I noticed last night that my horizontal lens shift has a bit of take up before it starts moving. So if you press and hold left or right, you hear the motor start but it takes a second for the lens to move. Where I notice this is when I need to tap the left or right buttons and I hear the motor but there is no movement until like 15 clicks. Doesn't do this vertically. My rs40 didn't have any take up.

Wondering if this is normal.
I've never experienced that before.

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post #1825 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Can someone check something for me please.

I noticed last night that my horizontal lens shift has a bit of take up before it starts moving. So if you press and hold left or right, you hear the motor start but it takes a second for the lens to move. Where I notice this is when I need to tap the left or right buttons and I hear the motor but there is no movement until like 15 clicks. Doesn't do this vertically. My rs40 didn't have any take up.

Wondering if this is normal.
I've never experienced that before.


Hmmm. Can anyone test this. Just got mine and am Trying to find out if it's just a quirk within spec or a problem.

Last edited by curlyjive; 06-14-2014 at 11:45 AM.
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post #1826 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Can someone check something for me please.

I noticed last night that my horizontal lens shift has a bit of take up before it starts moving. So if you press and hold left or right, you hear the motor start but it takes a second for the lens to move. Where I notice this is when I need to tap the left or right buttons and I hear the motor but there is no movement until like 15 clicks. Doesn't do this vertically. My rs40 didn't have any take up.

Wondering if this is normal.
I've never experienced that before.


Hmmm. Can anyone test this. Just got mine and am Trying to find out if it's just a quirk within spec or a problem.
mine does this. it is like a fraction of a second delay before it starts actually moving. makes it a little more difficult to setup.

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post #1827 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 01:44 PM
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I do get a fraction of a delay, but never had to wait for movement up to 15 clicks However, just make sure after performing a click, you give it time to move. Wait about a second or so.

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post #1828 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 01:54 PM
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Definitely not up to 15 clicks. One click and a little delay

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post #1829 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 02:14 PM
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Definitely not up to 15 clicks. One click and a little delay

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Maybe I'm wrong about the number of clicks. I say click to mean one button press at a time for fine adjustment vs press and hold to make larger moves.

But the behavior I'm talking about is most noticible when you press and hold left or right. When I do that, I hear the motor start and then about second later it starts to move. Like there is some slack before the lens moves. Vertical does not do this, nor does my old rs40.

So do you guys get that delay when you press and hold horizonatally, but your vertical is more quick to move?

Hoping this is normal and others have the same thing.

Last edited by curlyjive; 06-14-2014 at 02:18 PM.
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post #1830 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 07:09 PM
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Yes I do. It causes me to overshoot my alignment a lot

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