Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 62 - AVS Forum
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post #1831 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 07:10 PM
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I think this is normal.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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post #1832 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
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Originally Posted by rhale64L7 View Post
Definitely not up to 15 clicks. One click and a little delay

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Maybe I'm wrong about the number of clicks. I say click to mean one button press at a time for fine adjustment vs press and hold to make larger moves. There is slack on some clicks on both vertical and horizontal.

But the behavior I'm talking about is most noticible when you press and hold left or right. When I do that, I hear the motor start and then about second later it starts to move. Like there is some slack before the lens moves. Vertical does not do this, nor does my old rs40.

So do you guys get that delay when you press and hold horizonatally, but your vertical is more quick to move?

Hoping this is normal and others have the same thing.
You do have to play with the shifting to get the image precise. Sometimes you get one large shift with a click that then requires a few clicks which are shorter to get the image exact, etc.

Also, the lens memories do forget a little. If I switch a memory from, say 1:85 to 2:35 then back 1:85, the memory shift will be off slightly and require a few clicks to get the image exact again.

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post #1833 of 1856 Old 06-14-2014, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
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Originally Posted by rhale64L7 View Post
Definitely not up to 15 clicks. One click and a little delay

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Maybe I'm wrong about the number of clicks. I say click to mean one button press at a time for fine adjustment vs press and hold to make larger moves. There is slack on some clicks on both vertical and horizontal.

But the behavior I'm talking about is most noticible when you press and hold left or right. When I do that, I hear the motor start and then about second later it starts to move. Like there is some slack before the lens moves. Vertical does not do this, nor does my old rs40.

So do you guys get that delay when you press and hold horizonatally, but your vertical is more quick to move?

Hoping this is normal and others have the same thing.
You do have to play with the shifting to get the image precise. Sometimes you get one large shift with a click that then requires a few clicks which are shorter to get the image exact, etc.

Also, the lens memories do forget a little. If I switch a memory from, say 1:85 to 2:35 then back 1:85, the memory shift will be off slightly and require a few clicks to get the image exact again.

Yes I know lens shift is a bit erratic. It was on all the projectors I've had. The rs40 was jumpy and drifted more than the 4810.

But the 40 had no slack or take up. The 4810 has some take up left to right. If I hold down left and move it 6" or so, if I the hold down right the motor will go but it takes like a second for the lens to start moving. Just like there is some slack or take up before it catches. There is no odd motor sound or anything. Doesn't do this up and down though. That moves immediately.
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post #1834 of 1856 Old 06-15-2014, 10:23 AM
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^

It sounds like your projector is working as well as can be expected. I wouldn't sweat it.

When I go to adjust my 4910's lens shift vertically, for the first two clicks it always seems to move in the wrong direction before, on click three, it compensates for the first two wrong-direction moves and takes a big jump in the right direction. It's weird but oh well.
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post #1835 of 1856 Old 06-15-2014, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
^

It sounds like your projector is working as well as can be expected. I wouldn't sweat it.

When I go to adjust my 4910's lens shift vertically, for the first two clicks it always seems to move in the wrong direction before, on click three, it compensates for the first two wrong-direction moves and takes a big jump in the right direction. It's weird but oh well.
Yep, I've experienced that on my RS4810 too.

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post #1836 of 1856 Old 06-15-2014, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post
^

It sounds like your projector is working as well as can be expected. I wouldn't sweat it.

When I go to adjust my 4910's lens shift vertically, for the first two clicks it always seems to move in the wrong direction before, on click three, it compensates for the first two wrong-direction moves and takes a big jump in the right direction. It's weird but oh well.
Yeah I'm thinking its normal.


I'm getting some lamp flickering that us more of a concern. It goes away in high mode. Sometimes that will stop it if u switch back to low sometimes not. I got it last week with 0 hours on the bulb. It now has 18.

I've read about the arcing and running it high mode for a while. I hate to wear down the bulb though. Plus i don't know if this is an indicator of a failure prone lamp. A bigger concern is the possibility that it is the projector not the lamp. Sucks because it's great otherwise. Good sample and I had great results calibrating it. The main reason for upgrading was lamp issues on my rs40 so I'm bummed about it.

I'll contact avs tomorrow, but any thoughts?
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post #1837 of 1856 Old 07-07-2014, 03:57 PM
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I'm about to order the emitter for mine. Is there a difference in the PK-EM2P and PK-EM2G?
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post #1838 of 1856 Old 07-21-2014, 07:51 PM
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My unit was calibrated by Chad B, so I am not sure of all of the CMS adjustments. He did use the Stage profile on mine.

Skin tones look excellent and natural. I've never seen any kind of yellow or unnatural look. Very good color, overall. My basis for comparison would be my Panasonic 65" VT60 plasma which has reference quality color (also calibrated by Chad).

Stage is probably used because it has the lowest dE for 100%. Well this is the reason I used it... I calibrated 100% manually to .40dE and used my Lumagen for the 3d LUT calibration using BT1886. It looks awesome!!
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post #1839 of 1856 Old 07-21-2014, 08:05 PM
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Stage is probably used because it has the lowest dE for 100%. Well this is the reason I used it... I calibrated 100% manually to .40dE and used my Lumagen for the 3d LUT calibration using BT1886. It looks awesome!!
Yep I bet with the Lumagen you get really get it dialed in nicely. I have some dE errors/under saturation just over 3 with cyan, magenta, and blue at 50 to 75% if I recall. I would have to check my cal report again. I have no video processor, but those colors still look good on content.
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post #1840 of 1856 Old 08-02-2014, 03:50 PM
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Hello folks. What is a good cleaner for stains on your screen. I have a white 1.3 gain Dalite screen that has yellowish stains on it. I have no idea where they came from. I thought it was streaking from my projector but noticed they were there with it off.

I have tried Dawn and some kind of multi surface cleaner. Neither worked at all.
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post #1841 of 1856 Old 08-04-2014, 09:49 AM
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I would give Da-Lite a call.

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post #1842 of 1856 Old 08-05-2014, 04:20 AM
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Thanks will do. Sorry about posting that in here by the way. I found the dedicated screen forums
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post #1843 of 1856 Old 08-07-2014, 01:14 PM
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Is anyone using e-shift on their RS4810? I can see where it smooths out edges and jaggies of objects just a bit and sort of gives a slightly smoother looking image in general. I am not sure yet if motion is the same or any worse with e-shift turned on, however.

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post #1844 of 1856 Old 08-07-2014, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhale64L7 View Post
Hello folks. What is a good cleaner for stains on your screen. I have a white 1.3 gain Dalite screen that has yellowish stains on it. I have no idea where they came from. I thought it was streaking from my projector but noticed they were there with it off.

I have tried Dawn and some kind of multi surface cleaner. Neither worked at all.
I contacted Da-lite about some streaking on my electric, hp screen. The rep suggested denatured alcohol thinned 50/50 with water. Worked like a charm! Every so often I get a stuck bug or little, grubby fingerprints and works great on these too.

I wiped it on, gently, and then wiped off with water. The screen looks splotchy until it dries.

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post #1845 of 1856 Old 08-07-2014, 04:32 PM
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Someone from Stewart suggested to me to use blue painter's tape (real fast) to peel off a bug or stuck particle - won't work with stains most likely.

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post #1846 of 1856 Old 08-07-2014, 05:00 PM
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Where does everyone find denatured alcohol? I remember looking for that in the past and everyone looked at me like I was crazy.

At this point I dont want anything to clean the screen.

This is from water damage from a fridge. It is time for a new screen anyhow.

Next time i am probably going with a 2.35 screen. I mostly watch bluerays on it. Occasionally I will watch football and now probably basketball again now that LeBron came back home. But 90% of my viewing is blueray movies.
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post #1847 of 1856 Old 08-07-2014, 06:37 PM
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I have a Stewart ST100 screen which is 2:35 and absolutely love it. A scope screen is the way to go if you do pretty much Blu-ray. I'm 100% Blu with my 4810.

I initially tried out the Da-Lite HD Progressive 1.1 and 0.9 but the sparklies distracted me too much and the odors were rather strong, but perhaps they fade over time. They are very good screens otherwise.


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post #1848 of 1856 Old 08-07-2014, 08:10 PM
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I have a Stewart ST100 screen which is 2:35 and absolutely love it. A scope screen is the way to go if you do pretty much Blu-ray. I'm 100% Blu with my 4810.

I initially tried out the Da-Lite HD Progressive 1.1 and 0.9 but the sparklies distracted me too much and the odors were rather strong, but perhaps they fade over time. They are very good screens otherwise.
Ok any other screens you guys might have good info on?

Also with the 4k what happens when you display that on a 2.35 screen? I would assume probably bars somewhere correct?
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post #1849 of 1856 Old 08-08-2014, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
Is anyone using e-shift on their RS4810? I can see where it smooths out edges and jaggies of objects just a bit and sort of gives a slightly smoother looking image in general. I am not sure yet if motion is the same or any worse with e-shift turned on, however.
I used e-shift for a most of a year until I dug out my Panamorph 480. With the Panamorph I got some smoothing and turning the e-shift off sharpened up the image nicely. I would probably still use it if I didn't have an anamorphic lens.
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post #1850 of 1856 Old 08-08-2014, 07:53 AM
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Ok any other screens you guys might have good info on?

Also with the 4k what happens when you display that on a 2.35 screen? I would assume probably bars somewhere correct?
Jeff Meier did an excellent report. It really comes down to your viewing environment preferences.

http://www.accucalhd.com/documents/a...een_report.pdf

No one knows what the final spec with 4K Blu will be, so not sure if a 2:35 movie will just be hardcoded as it is today or if there will be some anamorphic function to it. Today though, yes, the bars just project onto the walls and given my walls are black, the bars get soaked up and you cannot see a trace of them.

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post #1851 of 1856 Old 08-08-2014, 10:40 AM
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Where does everyone find denatured alcohol? I remember looking for that in the past and everyone looked at me like I was crazy.

At this point I dont want anything to clean the screen.

This is from water damage from a fridge. It is time for a new screen anyhow.

Next time i am probably going with a 2.35 screen. I mostly watch bluerays on it. Occasionally I will watch football and now probably basketball again now that LeBron came back home. But 90% of my viewing is blueray movies.
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post #1852 of 1856 Old 08-19-2014, 08:12 AM
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Ok thanks. Would that be where the paint thinners would be?
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post #1853 of 1856 Old 08-23-2014, 11:38 PM
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Guys,

This thread is about the 4810 not screen care. Let's get back to the love... or hate (hard to believe) of the 4810.
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post #1854 of 1856 Old 08-24-2014, 07:25 AM
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I love my 4810 .
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post #1855 of 1856 Old 08-24-2014, 10:14 AM
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I too love my 4810.
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post #1856 of 1856 Old 08-30-2014, 03:29 AM
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One year on here and still loving my 4810

RE: eShift, since I use an AT screen (an old Stewart 'microperf' with noticeable holes), I find the smoothness and fill of the eShift 4K to be a huge benefit in my scenario. No major motion artifacts that jump out, so pretty happy about that, as I'm picky on that front.

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