Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 109 - AVS Forum
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post #3241 of 3593 Old 04-26-2014, 08:12 AM
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I decided to move from a shelf mount on the rear wall to a ceiling mount...

I looked at mounts from Chief & Peerless and decided to try the Peerless PRG-UNV due in part to the price on Amazon (also had a Gift Card + Reward Points) to bring the out of pocket to near zero. I added a Peerless extension pole EXT-102 and the Chief CMA-395 angled ceiling adapter to complete the system.

I should have done this long ago...I love the way it looks and it is super easy to level, square and adjust the picture to my screen. I am very impressed with the Peerless mount and extension pole. The Chief adapter is very beefy and is overkill with a 500 pound rating! The complete system seems very solid...smile.gif

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post #3242 of 3593 Old 04-26-2014, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebracatzebra View Post

What are your thoughts on the way the three fit and how they perform?

Sorry for the delayed response. IMO all three perform exactly the same (but keep in mind I received the Incredi Sonic just a couple of days ago).

Now if performance is similar (or very close to that), then you will ended up to a subjective opinion or user preferences. So, if I'm allowed to share my personal opinions about the glasses, then here you have them:


Glasses mini review - personal opinion (Click to show)

# 1 - Panasonic TY-EW3D3MU

They have a great balance between style and weight, very comfortable to wear (I received a free pair when I purchase the PJ on Medium - but you can buy other sizes if needed). They seems to be a bit fragile, but not as the Incredi Sonic. I really like the fact the switch to turn them on and off is at the top, easy accessible at all times. Using the same button you can switch the glasses from 3D to 2D. The mini USB charger is at the bottom, so it is less prone to collect dust and it is really easy to connect the usb cable when you need to charge them.

# 2 - PlayStation 3D glasses

Clunky and heaviest of all - they are a bit tight. So, if you have a big head, then you probably will find them difficult to wear for a long period of time. Power switch is located internally on the right hand side of the glasses and it is cumbersome to turn the glasses on and off. The fact they are bigger helps a bit to block/reduce your peripheral view angle. So, you can concentrate in the movie rather to see the person next to you moving around. Mini USB power charge is at the top, it has a cover and once again it is hard to pop it up (sharp fingernails or a small screw driver might be required).

#3 - Incredi Sonic VUE Series

Look and feel flimsy. They might look attractive (for some) though. Once you grab them, you will realize to better be careful with them. Legs are very flexible, so I think they can be easy adjust to different head sizes. Power switch is at the top, easily accessible and it has a LED light to let you know if the are powered on, off, or if there are issues with the glasses (low battery for instance). Yes, they run with a non-rechargeable battery. There are two batteries included with the glasses, so at least you have a spare battery for the future.

Now, if you are mainly looking for price, then just revert the order and you are all set.



I hope this helps.


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post #3243 of 3593 Old 04-28-2014, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

I decided to move from a shelf mount on the rear wall to a ceiling mount...

I looked at mounts from Chief & Peerless and decided to try the Peerless PRG-UNV due in part to the price on Amazon (also had a Gift Card + Reward Points) to bring the out of pocket to near zero. I added a Peerless extension pole EXT-102 and the Chief CMA-395 angled ceiling adapter to complete the system.

I should have done this long ago...I love the way it looks and it is super easy to level, square and adjust the picture to my screen. I am very impressed with the Peerless mount and extension pole. The Chief adapter is very beefy and is overkill with a 500 pound rating! The complete system seems very solid...smile.gif

Looks Great!!

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post #3244 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 06:21 AM
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my initial thoughts on this projector

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1457173/best-price-on-panasonic-pt-ae8000/60#post_24660988

Anyone have any good setup guides to avoid 3d crosstalk? Is that at all glasses dependent? I'm a 3d novice, but my initial impressions on 3d with this projector are a bit disappointing and I'm expecting that I can better my experience with some minimal config changes. I'm using cheap Incrediview 3d glasses from Amazon. Not sure if that plays into my experience or not. (instead of higher end glasses).

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post #3245 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Anyone have any good setup guides to avoid 3d crosstalk?

Normal or Dynamic on Picture mode.
Lamp on High.
3D Motion Remaster set to ON.
Glasses set to Normal.

This is a good starting point...on some movies no matter what you do you can't eliminate the crosstalk.

Quote:
Is that at all glasses dependent?

Good question...the PS3 & Panasonic glasses are the same are far as crosstalk goes...smile.gif
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post #3246 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

my initial thoughts on this projector

You mentioned in your "initial thoughts" post some uncertainty about setting the 3D screen size. Not sure if you saw this or if it will help with 3D performance, but in the user manual on page 64 it states "If [Auto Switching] in the [Lens Control] menu is set to [2.35:1 Image Detection], set the size to 1.02m (40") larger than the actual screen used for projection.

zcz
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post #3247 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 10:47 AM
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I didn't see that, thanks for the advice...but it does pose some problem smile.gif

My new screen is going to be a 2.35:1 at 144" and that's what I was projecting on the wall last night.

The highest the options go in the Panasonic are 140" I think. confused.gif

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post #3248 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 11:31 AM
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I interpreted the instructions as set the 3D screen size setting to 40" larger than your 16:9 screen size (which I believe is 114" in your case ... ? ). So ideally I think you would want the setting to be 154", however the same problem still exists if the max setting is 140". So perhaps just max it out at 140" and see if that helps.
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post #3249 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 11:57 AM
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You could also look at the similar setting in your BluRay player. Mine goes up to 999", which would be an impressive home theater.
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post #3250 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 11:57 AM
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If I truly have my lens at 144" diagonal 2.35:1 then the native 16x9 diagonal would be about 152"
If you consider that a 144" diagonal 2.35:1 has a width of 132.5 inches - right?

edited for clarity...

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post #3251 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 12:48 PM
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^^
In a constant image height set-up, a screen width of 133" 2.35:1 has a height of 57"....a 16:9 with a height of 57" has a screen width of 101"
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post #3252 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

^^
In a constant image height set-up, a screen width of 133" 2.35:1 has a height of 57"....a 16:9 with a height of 57" has a screen width of 101"

Not entirely true. Because you are over projecting the image to make it appear 2.35. The projector is still projecting a 16:9 image, you just don't see it all. So if you have a 133" wide screen you are actually projecting a 75" tall image, or 152-1/2" diagonal.


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post #3253 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 01:16 PM
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I really like my old Panasonic projector, but it's really time for me to upgrade. The PT AE-8000 has been on the market for a really long time. Any idea when to expect something new from Panasonic, or should I stop holding my breath and go with an Epson?
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post #3254 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Because you are over projecting the image to make it appear 2.35. The projector is still projecting a 16:9 image, you just don't see it all.

I am a little confused. I am using a constant image height screen and I am assuming Archaea is as well. I am over projecting the black bars on 2.35:1 AR material not the image. In my set-up I have a 115" width 2.35:1 AR with an image height of 49" producing a 125" diagonal picture. When I zoom 16:9 material back to my 16:9 lens setting, I now have a 100" diagonal image...my 16:9 diagonal can't be greater than my 2.35:1 in a CIH set-up.

Quote:
So if you have a 133" wide screen you are actually projecting a 75" tall image, or 152-1/2" diagonal.

So, if Archaea has a 2.35:1 AR CIH 133" wide screen then is height is 57" and his diagonal is 145" - when he zooms 16:9 material back to his 16:9 lens setting his height remains the same at 57" and his width is now 101" and his diagonal is 116".

I am having a very weird day today so I must be missing a piece of information here because I don't get it...smile.gif
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post #3255 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

If I truly have my lens at 144" diagonal 2.35:1 then the native 16x9 diagonal would be about 152"
If you consider that a 144" diagonal 2.35:1 has a width of 132.5 inches - right?

edited for clarity...

Hi Archaea,

What is the physical dimensions of your screen? What is the native AR of your screen?
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post #3256 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

I am a little confused. I am using a constant image height screen and I am assuming Archaea is as well. I am over projecting the black bars on 2.35:1 AR material not the image. In my set-up I have a 115" width 2.35:1 AR with an image height of 49" producing a 125" diagonal picture. When I zoom 16:9 material back to my 16:9 lens setting, I now have a 100" diagonal image...my 16:9 diagonal can't be greater than my 2.35:1 in a CIH set-up.

The projector doesn't care what it is projecting, black bars or not.

When you are watching at a 2.35 ratio on your screen the projector is still projecting 16:9 and is dumb having no idea what your screen size is. So as far as the projector is concerned you are projecting a 115" x 64.6875" image which is 131.94" diagonal

When you are watching at a 16:9 ratio it is 87.11" x 49" and 99.95" diagonal.

Just remember the projector is dumb and has no idea what your screen size or shape is, it always produces a 16:9 image.


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post #3257 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

^^
In a constant image height set-up, a screen width of 133" 2.35:1 has a height of 57"....a 16:9 with a height of 57" has a screen width of 101"

Not entirely true. Because you are over projecting the image to make it appear 2.35. The projector is still projecting a 16:9 image, you just don't see it all. So if you have a 133" wide screen you are actually projecting a 75" tall image, or 152-1/2" diagonal.

That is my understanding too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

If I truly have my lens at 144" diagonal 2.35:1 then the native 16x9 diagonal would be about 152"
If you consider that a 144" diagonal 2.35:1 has a width of 132.5 inches - right?

edited for clarity...

Hi Archaea,

What is the physical dimensions of your screen? What is the native AR of your screen?


144" diagonal 2.35:1 which has a image height of 56.4 inches and a image width of 132.5 inches

Here are some screenprints to make it all make sense.

16x9 (1.778) using CIH makes it equivalent to a 115" screen but that is zoomed down!

2.35:1 is actually just zoomed up/in --- so in reality if we take a look at the width of the 2.35:1 screen at 132.5 inches -- to get a equivalent 16x9 screen it's actually a 152" diagonal 16x9 screen.

So the reality is - when I'm in 2.35:1 mode I actually need to take into account that I'm projecting onto a 152" 16x9 screen when I consider gain, lighting control. pixel density, seating distances etc. Because the native 16x9 projector image is that big with a scope screen that is 144" diagonal.


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post #3258 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damon_DR View Post

I really like my old Panasonic projector, but it's really time for me to upgrade. The PT AE-8000 has been on the market for a really long time. Any idea when to expect something new from Panasonic, or should I stop holding my breath and go with an Epson?

I haven't seen anything out of Epson that bests the AE-8000 in person. JVC on the other hand (if you are wanting the best black levels) are still the best projectors I've seen, but I wanted the auto sense switch and the lesser gaming lag - so I went with the Pansonic 8000. I think it's still a great projector - having researched all the newest stuff I just chose it even just this month.

Mine was dated 3/2014 from the Panasonic factory on the shipping box - so apparently they are still making them and I got a current stock unit.
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post #3259 of 3593 Old 04-29-2014, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

So as far as the projector is concerned you are projecting a 115" x 64.6875" image which is 131.94" diagonal

I guess this is semantics...yes, I am aware that when I zoom out, I am zooming out a 16:9 "image" that has your quoted dimensions but I am "watching" a movie that has 115" x 49" or a 125" diagonal...I don't look at the black bars as an "image". smile.gif

My head hurts and I am leaving for a two week vacation tomorrow that I really, really need! tongue.giftongue.gif
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post #3260 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

I guess this is semantics...yes, I am aware that when I zoom out, I am zooming out a 16:9 "image" that has your quoted dimensions but I am "watching" a movie that has 115" x 49" or a 125" diagonal...I don't look at the black bars as an "image". smile.gif

My head hurts and I am leaving for a two week vacation tomorrow that I really, really need! tongue.giftongue.gif

As far as I know the start of all this was to set your screen size in the projector for the 3D settings. Those settings are based on the image size that the projector is projecting. Black bars or not, it needs to be treated like a 16:9 image from what I understand.


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post #3261 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

As far as I know the start of all this was to set your screen size in the projector for the 3D settings.

Well duh - my mind was in the way last night...I just knew I was missing something. I have set the screen size for 3D to every possible size and have noticed no difference in relation to crosstalk. I thought that the 3D screen size was important if you want to convert a native 2D source to 3D...I have never tried that feature of the PJ. smile.gif
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post #3262 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 08:02 AM
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do all disc players have the 3d size selection too? I'm wondering if somehow I need to turn off one or the other so they both aren't trying to account for size?

if it's only 2d to 3d conversion - then I don't care because I don't think I will ever even try that.

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post #3263 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

Well duh - my mind was in the way last night...I just knew I was missing something. I have set the screen size for 3D to every possible size and have noticed no difference in relation to crosstalk. I thought that the 3D screen size was important if you want to convert a native 2D source to 3D...I have never tried that feature of the PJ. smile.gif

I have no idea, never played around with 3D at all. Don't know what that setting does, for all we know if is one of those settings that does nothing but it make you feel good wink.gif


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post #3264 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 08:57 AM
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Anyone play 3D PS4 games on their 8000?

Play nice boys!
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post #3265 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

I haven't seen anything out of Epson that bests the AE-8000 in person. JVC on the other hand (if you are wanting the best black levels) are still the best projectors I've seen, but I wanted the auto sense switch and the lesser gaming lag - so I went with the Pansonic 8000. I think it's still a great projector - having researched all the newest stuff I just chose it even just this month.

Mine was dated 3/2014 from the Panasonic factory on the shipping box - so apparently they are still making them and I got a current stock unit.

In my searches I felt that the Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5030UB 2D/3D 1080p 3LCD was a comparable projector, if not better, but I don't really know enough. With how much use I still get out of my PT AX200u (only 720P @ 2000 lumens), I really am hesitant about jumping in at the tail-end of a product life-cycle out of fear of buyers remorse.

How much did you get your PTae8000 for? Are you happy with what you got?

And lastly, can anyone share some deals for purchasing this projector, or a package deal from a trustworthy vendor?
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post #3266 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 10:40 AM
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I purchased mine from B&H for $1900 after rebate a couple weeks back, then they pricematched to $1879
I looked at used prices on ebay. If they release a new model I can probably sell this one for close to what I bought it for and upgrade (IF the new one is released in my price range - which it probably won't be). $1800-2000 range was really my max consideration.

There are only five authorized vendors for projectors from panasonic - each of them is within about $50 bucks on price and you have to buy from an authorized vendor to get the current $350 dollar rebate. None of the gray market sellers are competitive on price when you take the rebate into account.

B&H
Visual Apex
Projector People
AGI
Projector Point
http://www.panasonic.com/business-solutions/buy-projectors.asp#

I am a little annoyed I didn't buy it last black friday for $1750 after rebate, like I considered doing at the time. But it hasn't been cheaper since - so I figured it was time to jump since currently is about as cheap as it's been outside of that one sale event last black friday 2013.


I had an AX200U before my epson 8350. I still think the AX200U is a solid projector. The Epson 8350 was a slight upgrade or lateral move from my AX200U in all areas except perhaps desktop PC resolution/use where it was a more signifant noticable upgrade - because the higher resolution afforded 1080p support for clear text and higher res gaming use. The Panasonic AE8000U is a more significant upgrade over the Epson 8350 than the 8350 was over the AX200U in my opinon.


Is it worth the money? If you use 2.35:1 screen - it's a no brainer solution. Otherwise that's a question you have to answser: I wouldn't buy it if you don't have money to spare or an actual desire an upgrade. Not like I'd eat Ramen noodles for six months to get it. However, It is really a nice projector in this pricerange, and from an AX200U - it'll be a pretty signifcant upgrade.

I'm not sure what else you'd consider at the $2K mark that would have better features and picture quality and low input lag. I didn't find anything anyway in my search. Even about 1.5 years after it's release it's still a top shelf pick - from what I have seen in person and was able to research. If you can wait up to a year I suspect panasonic might have their new model out - but then it'll not be $1900 either. This AE8000U was over $3k when it was released in late 2012.
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post #3267 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 10:50 AM
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Just unpacked this puppy last night after the kids and wife went to bed. I only had about an hour to do a full setup and tinker with it. I am coming from a AE7000, and immediately I noticed the brightness is MUCH improved YES this thing is a light cannon! After spending about 10 mins with connectionS and placing it on my rear shelf in a 100% light controled moive room I found the 3D VERY bright. With my AE7000 I always ran it on "Dynamic" mode setting for 3D for BETTER brightness but this thing a wonderful in "Normal" mode. Like I said i only had about an hour to play with the projector last night, but I'll report back more differences and findings soon particularly the contrast and colors. From my quick initial viewing it is dazzling! This is now my 5th projector. I've had Sony VPL50, Sanyo,Panny 4000,7000 and now the 8000 I try not to get too attached to hardware.

(I PAT MYSELF ON THE BACK FOR TAKING THE SHELF APPROACH 5 YEAR AGO WHEN SETTING UP MY THEATER YOU CANNOT IMAGINE HOW EASY IT IS TO JUST PLACE A PROJECTOR ON A SHELF PLUG N PLAY UP AND RUNNING IN 5 MINS.)


I realize this is an ancient post, but how do the shelf mounts work when the projector's lense is supposed to be in the bottom 1/3 of the image or below if mounted upright...or the top 1/3 or above if mounted upside down. Wouldn't you lose some focus quality if you mount near the ceiling on a shelf and have the image aiming down when the projector is upright?

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post #3268 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 12:18 PM
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I realize this is an ancient post, but how do the shelf mounts work when the projector's lense is supposed to be in the bottom 1/3 of the image or below if mounted upright...or the top 1/3 or above if mounted upside down. Wouldn't you lose some focus quality if you mount near the ceiling on a shelf and have the image aiming down when the projector is upright?

Depends on the projector. The JVC's and Sony's have the same amount of lens shift, if placed upside down or right side up. So shelf mounting slightly above the image is no problem, either way.

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Depends on the projector. The JVC's and Sony's have the same amount of lens shift, if placed upside down or right side up. So shelf mounting slightly above the image is no problem, either way.

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post #3270 of 3593 Old 04-30-2014, 12:54 PM
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You must be talking about my dark gray home made sound panels.biggrin.gif
They appear closer to white in the picture, due to the all black room.

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