Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 112 - AVS Forum
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post #3331 of 3682 Old 05-17-2014, 05:24 PM
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I finally figured it out - after some additional playing around. Panasonic level 1 support wasn't helpful, courteous yes, helpful no. Their tier 2 support is apparently closed over the weekend so that explains why I didn't get the call back I expected and was told I'd receive today after 3 separate calls to tier 1.

Anyway - to the fix:

1) put the lens knob joystick on the front of the projector in the middle indent so there is no lens shift.
2) hang the projector and level it using a bubble level.
3) put a 16x9 image on the screen (the lens test image works fine)
4) use the lens knob joystick to place the image on the center of the screen - using the zoom and focus to perfect the display --- SAVE this setting under the lens memory as 16x9
5) Throw in a 2.35:1 or 2.40:1 movie and play it. The image will appear too small. Use the zoom and focus to perfect the display, when you get it to the right size it will be too low. So use the v-area position under the lens control to raise the 2.35:1 image. In my case I had to raise it +20. -- SAVE this setting as scope under lens memory.
6) enable Auto Switching.




Fixed! Now your screen will automatically switch content while you have some lens offset with the physical knob.


My failure was that I was trying to adjust it to the scope option first so I could perfect the screen fill. (makes sense right? getting the left and right distances correct? -- sure makes sense to me - so I was getting the screen centered and vertically adjusted for scope) but when the projector went to 16x9 mode the picture would be off the top of the projector screen because the 16x9 is taller than scope. Trying to drop the image using the digital lens controls would actually just cutoff screen area, basically cutting off the actors heads. So you can't really modify 16x9 picture much vertically because it already uses the whole vertical span. However you CAN modify the scope screen vertically and not lose image - so you have to do the 16x9 adjustment first and then do the scope. Simple order of configuration made it work!

If you were using a desk mount with physical lens shift you'd probably have to reverse my instructions but they should still work.


Good luck - hope this helps!
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post #3332 of 3682 Old 05-17-2014, 08:28 PM
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Lens shift does work with the auto resizing feature and the projector not being centered on the screen. I've had both the 5000 and the 8000 projector set up with my Cinemascope (2.35:1) screen over the past four years and because of how our family room is situated, I can't put the projector directly centered on the screen without poking holes in the ceiling or getting rid of a couple very expensive massage recliners...

What you do is
1 Get the projector level and perpendicular to the screen (even though it is not centered on the screen).

2 Put up a 16X9 image and use the focus and zoom and lens shift to get the top and bottom of the image to align with the top and the bottom of the screen

3 Save this Lens setting as "TV" or "16X9"

4 Now get a Cinemascope Image up...

5 Use zoom and focus to get the image to fill your screen... Use the Lens Shift ONLY to move the image left and right (trival to do with the older model... a lot harder with the 8000U joystick)

6 Now use the vertical shift (not the lens shift) to move the image up and down to get it to fill the screen to the top and bottom boarders....

7 Save this Lens setting as "Scope" or "Cinemascope"

8 Set the auto detect feature....


This is a wonderful effect in my opinion once set... You'll notice PBS, Discovery, Animal Planet and other channels that sometimes broadcast in Cinemascope -- and even some TV ads -- will automatically fill you Scope screen.

There is one suboptimal impact of not centering you projector left/right on the screen with this approach, your 16X9 image will look fine and will touch the top and bottom of your 2.35 screen as it should, but it will not be perfectly centered left right on the screen (the blank screen to the left will be a different size than the blank screen to the right). This is not a issue for me now, although it bothered me a little at first. If you can center your projector left/right on the screen, but use the lens shift to correct for projector height -- there is no negative effect at all.

Jim
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post #3333 of 3682 Old 05-17-2014, 08:37 PM
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Should have added:

Don't forget to set your masking of top and bottom before you save the Cinemascope setting... this will keep your menus and messages from the projector on your screen (instead of off the top or bottom).

Jim
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post #3334 of 3682 Old 05-17-2014, 11:27 PM
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Its imparitive that you use the v-area position under the lens control to raise the 2.35:1 image, otherwise you may start to cut off the bottom of the 2.35:1 image with the other position vertical change option.

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post #3335 of 3682 Old 05-18-2014, 05:34 PM
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Hello ninja6o4,

 

I did today a lot of tests. Here is the result, what I find out.

 

There is no relationship between connected HDMI Source or not. It was simply the picture mode. I used mostly D-Cinema when I did the pictures. I could ask Panasonic, why this picture mode looks not optimal.

 

Here is an example:


 It shows a lot of double-contours.

 

In Rec or the most other picture modes, the double-contours are not visible.

 

Here is a different sample in REC Picture mode:

 

 

 

And here is an compare to my old Pana Beamer:

 

and here PTAT-6000/8000:

 

 

And finally some real pictures:

 

PTAT-6000:


 and here is my old Pana 2000:

 

 

The picture from my old one is in this example a little bit to green, and more dark (old lamp) - but not so bad for cinema movies.

 

A calibration should help me, but I do not think anymore, that my new one is a warenty case.

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post #3336 of 3682 Old 05-18-2014, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinema1fan View Post

Hello ninja6o4,

I did today a lot of tests. Here is the result, what I find out.

There is no relationship between connected HDMI Source or not. It was simply the picture mode. I used mostly D-Cinema when I did the pictures. I could ask Panasonic, why this picture mode looks not optimal.

In Rec or the most other picture modes, the double-contours are not visible.

A calibration should help me, but I do not think anymore, that my new one is a warenty case.

Wow thanks for the update. I am using D-Cinema also, so I will try Rec and run the Disney WOW calibration again. And really nice comparison shots from old vs new! eek.gif
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post #3337 of 3682 Old 05-19-2014, 10:51 AM
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Somethink goes wrong with the images. May be to big in one post.

I have add a couple of additional examples which are missing im my last post. So everyone who buy a new one can compare it to mine.:) 

 

PT-AT 6000/8000 in D-Cinema with picture from Test-Blu-ray (bad):

 

 

 

 

PT-AT 6000/8000 in Rec709 with picture from Test-Blu-ray (ok):

 

 

 

From my old PT-AE 2000 with calibrated Power light edition from Test-Blu-ray (less sharp, more green):

 

 

More examples from PT-AT 6000/8000:

 

 

 

 

I hope I can help with these pictures, if somebody need material to compare.:) 

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post #3338 of 3682 Old 05-20-2014, 06:37 AM
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Isn't this a sign for too much sharpening?
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post #3339 of 3682 Old 05-20-2014, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstas View Post

Isn't this a sign for too much sharpening?

This ^

That first shot has a crazy amount of ringing: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringing_artifacts and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edge_enhancement


I presume that the sharpness setting is stored separately for each mode (e.g. D Cinema) and needs to be turned WAY down from current.
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post #3340 of 3682 Old 05-20-2014, 10:57 PM
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I agree, I think he may have the "Detail Clarity" or "Sharpness" setting turned up too far (the Panny has both settings). And I can confirm that it *is* stored per video mode.
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post #3341 of 3682 Old 05-21-2014, 09:35 AM
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Guys,

I'm trying to decide on a PJ for my build and was strong considdering the PT-AT6000E because of the good reviews and the lens memory.
There's a sale in my country (Belgium) for 1619 €. I think this is a really good price. Any input on that?

Anybody had any negative experiences with this PJ or real reasons why I shouldn't buy it (or buy another make/model)?

I heard there might be an update for this model comming september and thus this might be a clearance, could that be true?

Thx a mil!

My own build: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1514892/th...ted-ht-project
Panasonic PT-AT6000, Denon X4000, Focal 716-700CC-700SR, SVS PB-1000
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post #3342 of 3682 Old 05-21-2014, 10:42 AM
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The current rebate ends in September. Panasonic says they are not out of the projector business so it is possible a new model will come out then. It is also possible the rebate value will increase from $350 to a higher incentive.

The new model will not likely be cheaper than the current model with rebate. The current model came out with a MSRP of over $3k. You have to decide if you want to wait or not. I decided to go for it in April and then I can consider selling it if something vastly superior comes out while the value is still high used. I agree - it's tough to buy late 2012 tech now - but the projector is fantastic, and there isn't anything better for the money that I found given my criteria, --- bright, low gaming lag, and automatic autolense zoom and focus, and around the $2k mark. In six months that criteria might land me with a different product selection -- but right now - the AE8000U is a great choice!

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post #3343 of 3682 Old 05-21-2014, 11:40 AM
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The CEDIA Expo is September 10-13. My best guess is they will announce their new models there.
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post #3344 of 3682 Old 05-21-2014, 02:44 PM
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...

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post #3345 of 3682 Old 05-21-2014, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

I agree, I think he may have the "Detail Clarity" or "Sharpness" setting turned up too far (the Panny has both settings). And I can confirm that it *is* stored per video mode.

Hello,

 

my beamer is not fixed installed, so I can not prove it yet. Let me say, I am not 100% sure that these parameters are NOT the problem, but nearly 100%. This statement is only true, if the default parameters for different picture modes are the same.

 

When I did the first startup I have checked all menu parameters. I tried all all rulers and set it back to default. In the next step I switched all picture optimizer to OFF.

 

Detail Clarity = 0 (I believe in default it was 1 or 2).

Sharpness = 0 (default)

Frame Creation = OFF (can not remember what was the default value)

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post #3346 of 3682 Old 05-24-2014, 04:56 PM
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"Stiftung Warentest" (very independent consumer protection installed and supported by german administration) tested actually in 2014 low and middle class beamers up to 2000 Euro/Dollar (I think US prices in Dollar are the same in Euro :().

 

The winner was the Panasonic PT-AT 6000/ 8000. Second one the EH-TW7200.

 

 

 

 

Here you can find the list of the tested beamers: http://www.test.de/Beamer-oder-Fernseher-Wer-hat-die-Nase-vorn-4708505-0/

 

Simply click on the button : "Geteste Produkte"

 

Beamer 06/2014 - Full HD

  • Acer H6510BD HauptbildAcer H6510BD
  • BenQ W1070 HauptbildBenQ W1070
  • BenQ W1300 HauptbildBenQ W1300
  • Epson EH-TW5200 HauptbildEpson EH-TW5200
  • Epson EH-TW7200 HauptbildEpson EH-TW7200
  • InFocus IN8606HD HauptbildInFocus IN8606HD
  • Optoma HD131Xe HauptbildOptoma HD131Xe
  • Panasonic PT-AT6000E HauptbildPanasonic PT-AT6000E
  • Viewsonic PJD7820HD HauptbildViewsonic PJD7820HD

Beamer 06/2014 - HD ready

  • Acer H5380BD HauptbildAcer H5380BD
  • BenQ W750 HauptbildBenQ W750
  • Epson EH-TW490 HauptbildEpson EH-TW490
  • Optoma H100 HauptbildOptoma H100

 

Have fun.:) 

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post #3347 of 3682 Old 05-24-2014, 09:23 PM
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The for the info!

My own build: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1514892/th...ted-ht-project
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post #3348 of 3682 Old 05-25-2014, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brwsaw View Post

Does it do it on all content or just the PS4?
Sorry for the delayed response, been working a lot lately. Thanks for the response. I think it was just the text while using the ps4. Each letter had a shadow to it and while playing games the picture was kind of blurry and not sharp at all. I have since sent that unit back i may try another 8000 or get the epson 5030. Thanks again for answering.
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post #3349 of 3682 Old 05-26-2014, 12:49 PM
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Pulled the trigger and I ordered a Panasonic PT-AT6000E today smile.gif

My own build: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1514892/th...ted-ht-project
Panasonic PT-AT6000, Denon X4000, Focal 716-700CC-700SR, SVS PB-1000
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post #3350 of 3682 Old 05-26-2014, 01:55 PM
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Where do i find the rebate form? I just got an 8000 to replace my 3000. And I'll have questions about it later. But since the rebate has a time limit, where is the form? I assumed it would be included with the projector. But no.

And second, how much of the serial number do I have to cut out of the box? I want to keep the box in good shape for when I sell it. So I don't want to cut too big a hole in it.

Many thanks.
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post #3351 of 3682 Old 05-26-2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q8472 View Post

Guys,

I'm trying to decide on a PJ for my build and was strong considdering the PT-AT6000E because of the good reviews and the lens memory.
There's a sale in my country (Belgium) for 1619 €. I think this is a really good price. Any input on that?

Anybody had any negative experiences with this PJ or real reasons why I shouldn't buy it (or buy another make/model)?

I heard there might be an update for this model comming september and thus this might be a clearance, could that be true?

Thx a mil!


I think this is an very good price. For example in my country (gemany) the best offer is 1.985 Euro including shipping.

 

Negative experiences? Yes - if you use a wrong configuration/picture mode, like me. Never with the right picture mode. The beamer is now perfect for me. It depends what you like and need.

If you have no problem with money buy the sony VW500/1000. If you are a black level freak buy a JVC model. If you have a big screen, or not a dark optimized movie room, the panasonic is a very good choice.

 

New update? MY knowledge: No informations available at the moment. If Panasonic release a new one, the price should be much higher.

 

I would recomment to buy the 6000/8000 model for this killer price.:) 

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post #3352 of 3682 Old 05-26-2014, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

Where do i find the rebate form? I just got an 8000 to replace my 3000. And I'll have questions about it later. But since the rebate has a time limit, where is the form? I assumed it would be included with the projector. But no.

And second, how much of the serial number do I have to cut out of the box? I want to keep the box in good shape for when I sell it. So I don't want to cut too big a hole in it.

Many thanks.

Here's a copy for you: http://www.audiogeneral.com/Panasonic/ptae8000u_rebate.pdf
I actually peeled the sticker off the box and left the cardboard intact. I haven't received mine back yet so I hope it is sufficient.
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post #3353 of 3682 Old 05-27-2014, 10:09 AM
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Many thanks, ninja6o4. I'll mail it in and wait.
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post #3354 of 3682 Old 05-27-2014, 10:13 AM
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I have a 16:9 screen, so I don't need to zoom/focus for cinema scale movies. But I would like to use the top and bottom masking feature. As far as I can tell, I should save my current zoom/focus/no-mask settings as the 16:9 lens mode. Then without changing the zoom/focus. set the top and bottom masks and save as the cinema scope mode. Is that right?
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post #3355 of 3682 Old 05-27-2014, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

I have a 16:9 screen, so I don't need to zoom/focus for cinema scale movies. But I would like to use the top and bottom masking feature. As far as I can tell, I should save my current zoom/focus/no-mask settings as the 16:9 lens mode. Then without changing the zoom/focus. set the top and bottom masks and save as the cinema scope mode. Is that right?

Yup. Then turn on the auto lens detection, or whatever it's called, and you're set. I also turned off the "processing" message, which was annoying.
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post #3356 of 3682 Old 05-30-2014, 05:08 PM
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I am about to pick up an AE8000 used and I noticed the manual says that if the projector is on for more than 6 hour at a time the bulb life will be reduced. It also says that if it is repeatedly turned on for short periods of time the bulb life will be reduced. I use my projector for about 12 hours a day... Will I have a problem with bulb life? I had always thought that it was better to have a projector for long periods vs having it on for short periods of time.

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post #3357 of 3682 Old 05-31-2014, 12:01 PM
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Replacement bulbs cost $300 (ProVantage) and last 4 to 5,000 hours. That works out to between 6 and 7 1/2 cents per hour. Is this something you really want to waste your time worrying about? smile.gif

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post #3358 of 3682 Old 05-31-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sargent View Post

Replacement bulbs cost $300 (ProVantage) and last 4 to 5,000 hours. That works out to between 6 and 7 1/2 cents per hour. Is this something you really want to waste your time worrying about? smile.gif

Mike
No... I think you misunderstand what I am saying...
Scenario # 1: Projector is on for 2 hours , and turned off, hour later it is turned on for five hours.
Scenario 2: Projector is on for 7 hours.

According to the manual if the projector is on for more than 6 hours at a time it will decrease the life of the bulb vs being on for shorter times totaling the same amount of hours. What I don't understand is why in scenario 1 the bulb would last longer than in scenario 2. I would think that if anything the bulb would last longer in scenario 2 or be the same.

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post #3359 of 3682 Old 06-01-2014, 12:27 PM
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Hey guys. I'm selling my Panasonic 8000 in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Seymour XD material also.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1531151/panasonic-ptae8000u-brand-new-in-box/0_100
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post #3360 of 3682 Old 06-01-2014, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

No... I think you misunderstand what I am saying...
Scenario # 1: Projector is on for 2 hours , and turned off, hour later it is turned on for five hours.
Scenario 2: Projector is on for 7 hours.

According to the manual if the projector is on for more than 6 hours at a time it will decrease the life of the bulb vs being on for shorter times totaling the same amount of hours. What I don't understand is why in scenario 1 the bulb would last longer than in scenario 2. I would think that if anything the bulb would last longer in scenario 2 or be the same.

If the cooling isn't adequate (hot day, restricted vents, Dynamic Super Bright (TM) for a big sports afternoon, high altitude) then letting the bulb rest partway through will be better than heat-soaking it the same total time.

On the other hand, if you keep it in econo mode,, and if you can trust Panasonic's cooling solution at all, you could run it for many hours at once without any problem.

Just a guess based on being in electronic product development.
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