Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 114 - AVS Forum
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post #3391 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

Here are the pictures. I leveled it as per some of the above recommendations. I guess I should start over and get it centered using the mount???


What mount are you using?

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post #3392 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

What mount are you using?

Peerless ceiling plate ACC570 and the chief RPA 181 mount. Then I went to Home Depot and bought a 3" threaded 1.5" nipple.
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post #3393 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

Peerless ceiling plate ACC570 and the chief RPA 181 mount. Then I went to Home Depot and bought a 3" threaded 1.5" nipple.
I just ordered this one... http://www.ebay.com/itm/161296275895?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I hope it is the correct one.

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post #3394 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

I just ordered this one... http://www.ebay.com/itm/161296275895?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I hope it is the correct one.

Were you able to find any info on whether the mounting plate will fit the bolt pattern on the bottom of the 8000? I did a quick search and couldn't find if it would or not. The actual adjustable mount looks exactly like the one I have but the plate that connects to the projector is the most important part.
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post #3395 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

Were you able to find any info on whether the mounting plate will fit the bolt pattern on the bottom of the 8000? I did a quick search and couldn't find if it would or not. The actual adjustable mount looks exactly like the one I have but the plate that connects to the projector is the most important part.
I couldn't find any info... I did find that it was used on some older Panasonic projectors though.
https://www.camcor.com/cat/CHIEF-RPA-735-Ceiling-Mount-for-Panasonic-PT-L735-RPA735.html

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #3396 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 07:49 AM
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Obviously you can place the projector at close to the minimum throw where you can fill the entire screen width with a 1.78 source frame. Obviously the top and bottom will overspill. You should use a scope movie on a 1.78 source frame for this, one with black bars. You should also remember that most scope type movies are at at aspect slightly above 2.35, usually around (AROUND) 2.38 or so So don't be concerned if you have to overspill the sides a tiny bit in order to fill the screen vertically with the active image. This is a good reason also to not mount at the very closest throw possible plus Panasonic warns in its throw charts that at the closest throw the lens will distort the image slightly. I usually mount 4 or so inches further away than the closest possible. remember throw is measured from the front surface of the lens along a horizontal line (horizontal to the floor) to the plane of the screen and not to the screen itself because the projector may be higher than the screen top with a 2.35 screen. Set the memory. Then you zoom out making the image smaller until the 1.78 image just fills the screen height. Focus. lens shift, yada yada as necessary and then set the memory.


For calculating your close throw you multiply the smallest throw ratio number by the full width of your 2.35 screen because for set up you are projector a 1.78 frame width that spills over big time on the top and bottom (about 12.5 percent on the top and 12.5 percent on the bottom). The manual has throw charts for setting the projector up dual aspect. You have to plug in the screen diag in inches and the result of the calculation for closest throw will be in meters which you then convert to inches by multiplying by 39.14.

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post #3397 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

I couldn't find any info... I did find that it was used on some older Panasonic projectors though.
https://www.camcor.com/cat/CHIEF-RPA-735-Ceiling-Mount-for-Panasonic-PT-L735-RPA735.html

I don't know if the holes are consistent by brand or not. Worse case scenario is go get a piece of plate steel and make your own plate that matches your holes. You are still $100 below what I spent if that eBay price was correct. Also in lieu of the peerless plate you can get a 1.5" floor plate that will accept the 1.5" pipe. You can screw that into your joists as the ceiling plate. I saw them at Home Depot yesterday for around $15.
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post #3398 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

I don't know if the holes are consistent by brand or not. Worse case scenario is go get a piece of plate steel and make your own plate that matches your holes. You are still $100 below what I spent if that eBay price was correct. Also in lieu of the peerless plate you can get a 1.5" floor plate that will accept the 1.5" pipe. You can screw that into your joists as the ceiling plate. I saw them at Home Depot yesterday for around $15.
Yup... I used the same floor flange for my BenQ w1070 too. I figure I should be able to mod the mount if I have to or maybe I will get lucky, and I will just need to drill the holes for the projector in the mount. I will also check it out on my BenQ as that is mounted with a Chief RPM mount (another less than $50 eBay find smile.gif ).

Transaction has already been completed so I hope it is correct..

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post #3399 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Obviously you can place the projector at close to the minimum throw where you can fill the entire screen width with a 1.78 source frame. Obviously the top and bottom will overspill. You should use a scope movie on a 1.78 source frame for this, one with black bars. You should also remember that most scope type movies are at at aspect slightly above 2.35, usually around (AROUND) 2.38 or so So don't be concerned if you have to overspill the sides a tiny bit in order to fill the screen vertically with the active image. This is a good reason also to not mount at the very closest throw possible plus Panasonic warns in its throw charts that at the closest throw the lens will distort the image slightly. I usually mount 4 or so inches further away than the closest possible. remember throw is measured from the front surface of the lens along a horizontal line (horizontal to the floor) to the plane of the screen and not to the screen itself because the projector may be higher than the screen top with a 2.35 screen. Set the memory. Then you zoom out making the image smaller until the 1.78 image just fills the screen height. Focus. lens shift, yada yada as necessary and then set the memory.


For calculating your close throw you multiply the smallest throw ratio number by the full width of your 2.35 screen because for set up you are projector a 1.78 frame width that spills over big time on the top and bottom (about 12.5 percent on the top and 12.5 percent on the bottom). The manual has throw charts for setting the projector up dual aspect. You have to plug in the screen diag in inches and the result of the calculation for closest throw will be in meters which you then convert to inches by multiplying by 39.14.


Mark,

Unfortunately, you are giving the wrong advice again on this particular projector. You can't setup the scope screen first. You MUST set up the 16x9 (1.7778 screen) first if you are using lens offset and want the auto lens function to work.

You setup the 16x9 image - save to lens memory, then put in scope content. The scope will be off the screen. No Problem: You use the use the v-area position under the lens control to raise the 2.35:1 image. (assuming a ceiling mount) You cut off no image, and lose no quality doing it this method. You can't do the reverse and start with the scope because your 16x9 image will be off the screen after setting your scope - just as this poster has found - and you can't use vertical shift with the 16x9 without actually cutting off image and losing content since 16x9 already uses the full vertical frame of the projector.

I went through this same saga just weeks ago. I've linked the discussion several times in the last few posts.

The information I figured out is from trial and error and later confirmed with a call back from Panasonic second level tech support, after three different first level agents failed to help fix my identical issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1459111/question-about-panasonic-ae8000u-cinema-scope-to-16x9-zoom#post_24731062
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post #3400 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

Thanks for your response Mark and for your offer to help! I have a 2.35:1 120" wide 130" diagonal DIY screen. I am able to get a 2.35 image to fit great on there. I save that as my number one lens memory. Everything is fine. When a 16:9 movie comes on it over flows the screen on the tops and sides. I go to my saved settings and they won't load. Nothing changes. I will look at the manual a little closely to see if I am missing something.

Hi Claybe. I just set this up on my projector. You need two lens memory saves. You did the first. Call it 2.35:1 That fills your screen with a cinema-scope movie. Now, put on a 16:9 movie. Re zoom and focus until it's how you like. Save that one as your second lens memory setting. Call it 16:9. Then you turn on the Auto Switching mode (page 75 in the manual) and the projector should handle the rest.

That's the simple answer. And it should work. But two things to look out for. 1) Since I don't have a 2.35:1 screen, you might have to set 16:9 first, then 2.35:1, depending on whether you need to digitally shift the image. 2) for the 2.35:1 setting, you might want to include the top/bottom masking area settings to reduce any greyness in the black bar areas over and under your screen.

Good luck. You will get there.
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post #3401 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 10:31 AM
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I have the exact same mount Claybe has.

Found the joystick! Cool. That helped a little, but my projector definitely isn't dead center.

What I'm experiencing appears to be the right side of the screen being closer than the left side, thus causing the right side to look narrower.

I tried different projector heights. People would definitely whack their heads if I don't use Keystone so I just have to deal with that, but it never occurred to me that the screen may be closer to the wall on one side than the other. Yikes. Here's a photo of what I'm seeing presently.

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post #3402 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 11:21 AM
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Your projector needs to be rotated left slightly. it isn't squared with the screen with the front of the projector lens to the projection screen plane

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post #3403 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kheiden View Post

I have the exact same mount Claybe has.

Found the joystick! Cool. That helped a little, but my projector definitely isn't dead center.

What I'm experiencing appears to be the right side of the screen being closer than the left side, thus causing the right side to look narrower.

I tried different projector heights. People would definitely whack their heads if I don't use Keystone so I just have to deal with that, but it never occurred to me that the screen may be closer to the wall on one side than the other. Yikes. Here's a photo of what I'm seeing presently.


Rotate the projector clockwise as looking from above. Then lens shift the image back to center. The lens is not parallel to the screen. How this works. The distance from the lens to the right side of the screen is shorter than the distance from the lens to the left side of the screen. Since the distance is shorter on the right, the image can't spread out as much. That is why it is shorter in height on the right side.

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post #3404 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kheiden View Post

I have the exact same mount Claybe has.

Found the joystick! Cool. That helped a little, but my projector definitely isn't dead center.

What I'm experiencing appears to be the right side of the screen being closer than the left side, thus causing the right side to look narrower.

I tried different projector heights. People would definitely whack their heads if I don't use Keystone so I just have to deal with that, but it never occurred to me that the screen may be closer to the wall on one side than the other. Yikes. Here's a photo of what I'm seeing presently.

I've also had issues getting this projector properly aligned to my screen. This post helped me out. Between this and what the guys above said, you should get it aligned. Good luck.
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post #3405 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Mark,

Unfortunately, you are giving the wrong advice again on this particular projector. You can't setup the scope screen first. You MUST set up the 16x9 (1.7778 screen) first if you are using lens offset and want the auto lens function to work.

You setup the 16x9 image - save to lens memory, then put in scope content. The scope will be off the screen. No Problem: You use the use the v-area position under the lens control to raise the 2.35:1 image. (assuming a ceiling mount) You cut off no image, and lose no quality doing it this method. You can't do the reverse and start with the scope because your 16x9 image will be off the screen after setting your scope - just as this poster has found - and you can't use vertical shift with the 16x9 without actually cutting off image and losing content since 16x9 already uses the full vertical frame of the projector.

I went through this same saga just weeks ago. I've linked the discussion several times in the last few posts.

The information I figured out is from trial and error and later confirmed with a call back from Panasonic second level tech support, after three different first level agents failed to help fix my identical issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1459111/question-about-panasonic-ae8000u-cinema-scope-to-16x9-zoom#post_24731062

I went to your link and did all of this, but the v-area position will not raise the image enough only about 3/4 the way up the screen. Should I not level the projector?
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post #3406 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post


I went to your link and did all of this, but the v-area position will not raise the image enough only about 3/4 the way up the screen. Should I not level the projector?

Page 23 of this manual gives you your options for mounting distances and heights. If you dont fall in these guidelines for your screen it won't work - if you do it will.

http://www.audiogeneral.com/Panasonic/ptae8000u_manual.pdf



Remember to calculate your screen sized based on your scope screen's width as it relates to a 16x9 width

For instance my scope screen is 144" diagonal.
That is 132.5 inches wide.

To figure out my projector mounting distance I need to then determine whast size 16x9 image I have when using a 2.35:1 screen.

So I figure out what size 16x9 image is 132.5 inches wide.

When I do the math I determine I have a 152" diagonal 16x9 screen to equal the 132.5" wide so the 152" number is what I plug into the equations on page 23 to figure out my mounting distance allowances and height allowances.
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post #3407 of 3672 Old 06-04-2014, 01:11 PM
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Okay, I figured it out. It was an honest mistake, but I feel like an idiot. I was saving everything and making all of the adjustments in the "picture" portion of the menu and NOT the "Lens Control" part of the menu. I was able to do all do the above in the lens control but NOT the picture portion of the menu. If you are having problems make sure you are in the LENS CONTROL part of the menu!!! Thanks for the help, this is awesome!!!
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post #3408 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 05:58 AM
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Hey everyone, my electrician is coming out this weekend to add an outlet in my ceiling for my FIRST projector and I have a couple questions before he comes in regards to throw distance for my scope setup.

 

My room is 18x11 with a 7'6" ceiling height.  My screen (DIY) will go on the 11' wall and will still need to accommodate my towers on either side.  I was doing some measurements yesterday using the CIH dimensions chart I found here without using the projector (I know, I'm going to hook it up tonight).  I believe I'm limited to a 100" width for scope due to my short wall, so if I go by what you said Archaea, I should calculate throw distance using a 100" 16x9 width which would put me at 114" diagonal for 16x9 since I will be using the zoom method.  Is this correct?

 

I think my sweet spot for mounting would put the lens around 14-15' from the screen, will this be ok?  I was a little confused by the chart in the manual that was referred to earlier.  

 

My seating will have to be 14-15' feet back as well so I'm a little worried about the small 16x9 picture being at 86".

 

I like the idea of using the wall for a while to get an idea of size while building my screen, but I'm kind of forced to figure out exactly where the projector will go before Saturday due to the electrician coming out to wire things up.

 

I can't believe how much prep has to go into all this.  Without this site I would be completely lost.  I've been paying close attention to the recent setup tips you all posted so thank you for saving me future headaches!

 

I plan on providing him with this surge protector outlet http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Duplex-Surge-Power-Outlet-White-R00-T5280-00W/202066692 - Any other tips for things I should get before?

 

Thanks!!

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post #3409 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Mark,

Unfortunately, you are giving the wrong advice again on this particular projector. You can't setup the scope screen first. You MUST set up the 16x9 (1.7778 screen) first if you are using lens offset and want the auto lens function to work.

You setup the 16x9 image - save to lens memory, then put in scope content. The scope will be off the screen. No Problem: You use the use the v-area position under the lens control to raise the 2.35:1 image. (assuming a ceiling mount) You cut off no image, and lose no quality doing it this method. You can't do the reverse and start with the scope because your 16x9 image will be off the screen after setting your scope - just as this poster has found - and you can't use vertical shift with the 16x9 without actually cutting off image and losing content since 16x9 already uses the full vertical frame of the projector.

I went through this same saga just weeks ago. I've linked the discussion several times in the last few posts.

The information I figured out is from trial and error and later confirmed with a call back from Panasonic second level tech support, after three different first level agents failed to help fix my identical issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1459111/question-about-panasonic-ae8000u-cinema-scope-to-16x9-zoom#post_24731062
Is this the correct process...
1: look up the distance for the projector (max zoom) on the chart for 2.35
2: Mount the projector with the lens centered on the screen, and zero lens offset.
3: adjust the projector for a 16x9 picture
4: set focus
5: save in memory
6: Zoom picture for 2.35
7: adjust focus
8: save in memory for 2.35
9: set to auto

Is this the correct way to set it up with the projector being as close as it can be?

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post #3410 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 09:51 AM
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The closest distance for 1.78 and 2.35 zooming is not the closest distance that the projector can be placed to the screen to fill full width at 2.35. Panny has charts for that scenario. Google them. You want to stay a bit away from closest anyway to avoid distortions. You can always experiment with placement by putting the projector on a moveable table before you hang it.
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post #3411 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

Thanks for your response Mark and for your offer to help! I have a 2.35:1 120" wide 130" diagonal DIY screen. I am able to get a 2.35 image to fit great on there. I save that as my number one lens memory. Everything is fine. When a 16:9 movie comes on it over flows the screen on the tops and sides. I go to my saved settings and they won't load. Nothing changes. I will look at the manual a little closely to see if I am missing something.
Bottom line up front. MAKE SURE YOU SAVE TO THE LENS CONTROL AREA OF THE MENU!!!!! Always adjust the 16x9 image first. Use the joy stick to lower the screen for 16x9 and to move left to right for 2.40:1. The image drops as you zoom out (to me zoom out is make it bigger) so always do that prior to using the joy stick I (found out this the hard way).
1. There should be 2 very little alien screws on the mount one when loosened tilts the projector from left to right and the other one from front to back. The larger alien screw is to tighten the mount to the down rod ignore that for now but it needs to be snug. I used a small 6" level on the top of my projector to get it level. Do one at a time first level from side to side (tighten) then level from front to back (tighten). Check level again since everything can move when you tighten. (Mark Haflich is sort of right here so we will get to that latter)
2. Reset the projector like someone else said. Now your image is shooting up on the ceiling not the screen. Zoom out, the image will start to drop keep zooming until the image is on the screen as it gets near the proper height of the screen it will be either too high or too low. Go into the menu and flip it for ceiling mount.
3. You have to set the 16x9 first not 2.40:1. Get a movie like avatar or something you know is 16x9 (chick flick)(if there are no bars what so ever when played on the TV it is 16x9) and put in the player skip the previews and start the movie then pause on a decent bright screen full of color.
4. Remember Joy stick adjusts your height on 16x9 and width on 2.40:1. Use the joy stick behind the cover to the left of the lens and raise or lower the image keep zooming in or out and using the joy stick until the image is very close to the top and bottom edge of the screen.
5. This is where you will either be aligned or the image is shorter on one side like you were talking about. If you are within 1/16” 1/8” to 1/4" I would not worry too much (you can just zoom to fill the screen) but if it is an inch like you said then you need to adjust the projector on the rod. (I am kind of anal so 1/16” was too much for me to handle LOL) Loosen the large alien screw that keeps the projector from turning on the rod and turn the entire projector either clock wise or counter clock wise until you have the desired results. Tighten the alien screw
6. If the image is the same height on both sides but it is going up or down hill left to right then this is your first side to side alien screw adjustment. (This is what Mark Haflich is talking about the screen seems level and the projector seems level but they are not level to each other if that makes sense) You need to loosen it and make the image parallel to the screen top and bottom.
7. Zoom out to fill the screen using the joy stick to bring the image up or down as you go. Tighten the joy stick when you think it is perfect
8. Focus as best you can, the focus button on the remote has several focus screens with lines but then will let you focus the image that is projected. You just need to toggle through it. I like to do fine tuning on focus on someone’s hair.
9. Your height 16x9 image is done! Save this in memory as 16x9. Your screen should now be full height on your screen with a 16x9 image playing with the bars on the sides. (don’t worry if the bars are not the same size yet)
10. Now it is time to adjust the 2.40:1 remember we only use the joystick to adjust width for 2.40:1 so try not to move it up or down as this will screw up you 16x9 image. Put in a 2.40:1 image or 2.35:1 image your choice. Use the zoom to fill the screen from left to right the image will drop off the screen this is alright. If the image goes off one side of the screen before it gets to the other you will use the joy stick to shift it left or right and zoom until it is perfect side to side. (Do not raise the image with the joy stick)
11. Use the V-Area Position in the menu to raise the picture not the joy stick. Move V-Area Position until you have image where you want it. Now use the frigging joy stick again trying to move left and right without going up or down. Zoom in or out as you go using the V-area, and joystick to get it perfect. Tighten the joy stick focus and save this as your 2.35:1 format in memory.
12. Your 2.35:1 image is done Save this in memory as 2.35:1. Your screen should now be full height on your screen with a 2.35:1 image filling the screen.
13. You have to go back to #3 because you may have raised or lowered the 16x9 image when using the friging joy stick. When you put in your 16x9 source you need to go to memory and load the saved 16x9 memory location if you are lucky you did not screw anything up. If it is really bad you need to start over if just minor use the V-Area Position to correct it. Either way resave this in the 16x9 location. Then check the 2.40:1 again. It is sort of a circle. Again I am anal so I went around the circle about 3 times.
14. Now is the time you can center your 16x9 if you like. (bars are same size on both sides ) put in your 16x9 source load the saved 16x9 memory location and then use H-Area Position to move the image left to right. Re save this over your 16x9 memory location.
14. Turn auto on and select the 2 memory images you saved and enjoy.
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post #3412 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

Bottom line up front. Always adjust the 16x9 image first. Use the joy stick to lower the screen for 16x9 and to move left to right for 2.40:1. The image drops as you zoom out (to me zoom out is make it bigger) so always do that prior to using the joy stick I (found out this the hard way).
1. There should be 2 very little alien screws on the mount one when loosened tilts the projector from left to right and the other one from front to back. The larger alien screw is to tighten the mount to the down rod ignore that for now but it needs to be snug. I used a small 6" level on the top of my projector to get it level. Do one at a time first level from side to side (tighten) then level from front to back (tighten). Check level again since everything can move when you tighten. (Mark Haflich is sort of right here so we will get to that latter)
2. Reset the projector like someone else said. Now your image is shooting up on the ceiling not the screen. Zoom out, the image will start to drop keep zooming until the image is on the screen as it gets near the proper height of the screen it will be either too high or too low. Go into the menu and flip it for ceiling mount.
3. You have to set the 16x9 first not 2.40:1. Get a movie like avatar or something you know is 16x9 (chick flick)(if there are no bars what so ever when played on the TV it is 16x9) and put in the player skip the previews and start the movie then pause on a decent bright screen full of color.
4. Remember Joy stick adjusts your height on 16x9 and width on 2.40:1. Use the joy stick behind the cover to the left of the lens and raise or lower the image keep zooming in or out and using the joy stick until the image is very close to the top and bottom edge of the screen.
5. This is where you will either be aligned or the image is shorter on one side like you were talking about. If you are within 1/16” 1/8” to 1/4" I would not worry too much (you can just zoom to fill the screen) but if it is an inch like you said then you need to adjust the projector on the rod. (I am kind of anal so 1/16” was too much for me to handle LOL) Loosen the large alien screw that keeps the projector from turning on the rod and turn the entire projector either clock wise or counter clock wise until you have the desired results. Tighten the alien screw
6. If the image is the same height on both sides but it is going up or down hill left to right then this is your first side to side alien screw adjustment. (This is what Mark Haflich is talking about the screen seems level and the projector seems level but they are not level to each other if that makes sense) You need to loosen it and make the image parallel to the screen top and bottom.
7. Zoom out to fill the screen using the joy stick to bring the image up or down as you go. Tighten the joy stick when you think it is perfect
8. Focus as best you can, the focus button on the remote has several focus screens with lines but then will let you focus the image that is projected. You just need to toggle through it. I like to do fine tuning on focus on someone’s hair.
9. Your height 16x9 image is done! Save this in memory as 16x9. Your screen should now be full height on your screen with a 16x9 image playing with the bars on the sides. (don’t worry if the bars are not the same size yet)
10. Now it is time to adjust the 2.40:1 remember we only use the joystick to adjust width for 2.40:1 so try not to move it up or down as this will screw up you 16x9 image. Put in a 2.40:1 image or 2.35:1 image your choice. Use the zoom to fill the screen from left to right the image will drop off the screen this is alright. If the image goes off one side of the screen before it gets to the other you will use the joy stick to shift it left or right and zoom until it is perfect side to side. (Do not raise the image with the joy stick)
11. Use the V-Area Position in the menu to raise the picture not the joy stick. Move V-Area Position until you have image where you want it. Now use the frigging joy stick again trying to move left and right without going up or down. Zoom in or out as you go using the V-area, and joystick to get it perfect. Tighten the joy stick focus and save this as your 2.35:1 format in memory.
12. Your 2.35:1 image is done Save this in memory as 2.35:1. Your screen should now be full height on your screen with a 2.35:1 image filling the screen.
13. You have to go back to #3 because you may have raised or lowered the 16x9 image when using the friging joy stick. When you put in your 16x9 source you need to go to memory and load the saved 16x9 memory location if you are lucky you did not screw anything up. If it is really bad you need to start over if just minor use the V-Area Position to correct it. Either way resave this in the 16x9 location. Then check the 2.40:1 again. It is sort of a circle. Again I am anal so I went around the circle about 3 times.
14. Now is the time you can center your 16x9 if you like. (bars are same size on both sides ) put in your 16x9 source load the saved 16x9 memory location and then use H-Area Position to move the image left to right. Re save this over your 16x9 memory location.
14. Turn auto on and select the 2 memory images you saved and enjoy.

I followed all of this but it does not matter if you are saving all these adjustments in the picture area of the menu. MAKE SURE YOU SAVE TO THE LENS CONTROL AREA OF THE MENU!!!!! That is the most important part that is missing from all of these instructions.
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post #3413 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post

I followed all of this but it does not matter if you are saving all these adjustments in the picture area of the menu. MAKE SURE YOU SAVE TO THE LENS CONTROL AREA OF THE MENU!!!!! That is the most important part that is missing from all of these instructions.
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post #3414 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post


I followed all of this but it does not matter if you are saving all these adjustments in the picture area of the menu. MAKE SURE YOU SAVE TO THE LENS CONTROL AREA OF THE MENU!!!!! That is the most important part that is missing from all of these instructions.

My instructions included that. wink.gif

Because I ran into the same little problem when I went through this.

post #3331

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post #3415 of 3672 Old 06-05-2014, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

My instructions included that. wink.gif

Because I ran into the same little problem when I went through this.

post #3331

Sorry I didn't see that! Wish I had sooner!!! But now I am all over it and it is greatness. This is one incredible PJ!
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I'm really liking it with the PS4.
Some incredible depth in each game I've played.

I need a coffee
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post #3417 of 3672 Old 06-06-2014, 05:57 AM
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I also went back to my earlier posts and added the MAKE SURE YOU SAVE TO THE LENS CONTROL AREA OF THE MENU!!!!! statement. LOL I am glad I did not see those adjustments first I guess since they are in the lens memory area they are to fine tune sizes like 1.85: 1 and the like to save a new memory. Not sure why there are 2 settings in different places that kind of do the same thing. In a different way.
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post #3418 of 3672 Old 06-06-2014, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I also went back to my earlier posts and added the MAKE SURE YOU SAVE TO THE LENS CONTROL AREA OF THE MENU!!!!! statement. LOL I am glad I did not see those adjustments first I guess since they are in the lens memory area they are to fine tune sizes like 1.85: 1 and the like to save a new memory. Not sure why there are 2 settings in different places that kind of do the same thing. In a different way.

Yeah I don't get it either. But it really messed me up for a couple of days!!!
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post #3419 of 3672 Old 06-06-2014, 10:52 AM
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one thing I've noticed is if you use the joystick offset function like I have the masking function is useless. IE I offset my vertical by 22 on the scope screen to account for my mount. Only the upper masking works, the bottom masking now cannot even pull onto the actual picture. The top and bottom masking works fine if the joystick offset function is not used and it is in the center indent.

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post #3420 of 3672 Old 06-06-2014, 03:47 PM
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Hi guys,
I just got my projector about two weeks ago and was finally able to spend some time following the instructions in post 3411 to set up for 16x9 and 2.35x1.
I ran into some trouble and am hoping someone can help me out.
At the beginning of the procedure, I reset to defaults to make sure I was starting with a clean slate. The 16x9 went as described and I saved it to memory. I then put in a 2.35 movie. I zoomed it in to fill the sides. When I went to use the V-Area to move the image up, it was working fine until about +34. At that point the image was about 3 inches from the top of the screen, but then only the picture started to move up within the top of the projected image if that makes sense. So the image was shifting up and getting cut off. Hope that explains my problem.
Any thoughts on what the problem could be? Screen is a 115" 2.35:1 approximately 15 or so feet from the lens.
Thanks everyone!
Craig
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