Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 117 - AVS Forum
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post #3481 of 3500 Old 06-30-2014, 03:32 PM
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[QUOTE=Archaea;25306649]Did you take your AVR out of the HDMI signal chain and connect the projector directly to your cable box or video output source?

Yes, I tried it today and it still had the same issue with the reds bouncing. Looking at the problem more closer, you only really see it if the red objects is stationary. The main show I've see the problem with is "Undateable" on NBC, the pillow in their apt and all the barstools and napkins on the bar do it all the time
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post #3482 of 3500 Old 06-30-2014, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byancey View Post
Self Diagnostics report that all is OK with the mechanical operation of the iris.

There's no question that the operation of the DI has changed since I first purchased the projector, however, I do recall thinking back then that the operation of the DI in very dark scenes was perhaps overly aggressive, particularly with how the light levels continued to drop gradually in extended dark scenes and then suddenly and noticeably "popped" from very dark to much lighter in some dark to bright scene transitions. Perhaps it was misbehaving early on and has now settled in and is working normally.

As for the black bars that I started to notice, I went back yesterday and while I can notice them, it is very subtle and only visible in completely dark scenes that last for more than a few seconds. There's no question that an overly aggressive iris in those dark scenes would likely have helped to hide those bars early on, but otherwise, I did switch from an older projector (AX100U) with a used bulb to a new projector with a new bulb that is also 400 lumens brighter. Given that, the subtle bars on the masking that I'm able to detect in extended dark scenes may not be unexpected.

Would still love to hear any other AE8000U owners reports on operation of their DI in extremely dark scenes, but for the moment I'm going to assume that the DI on my AE8000U is operating normally.

Thanks!
Dynamic Iris: I had the AE2000, the 4000 and now the 8000 and I've never notice aggressive behaviors, except when I was opening or closing windows with my PC.
Bars: the bars are dark gray with this PJ, a little darker than the 4000's bars. When projecting a full black image, the bars and the picture should give the same shade of "almost-black".
Some tips:
Are you using the same mode (normal, cinema 1 or 2, etc)? That may change the iris behavior. IMO, the cinema 1 gives the darkest blacks.
Are you using your PJ with your PC? If so, I recommend you to use the HDMI extended mode with your PJ and the full range (0-255) in the configuration of the GPU.
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post #3483 of 3500 Old 07-01-2014, 07:48 AM
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I've never been happy with the DI on my AE7000. I get color shifting on scenes where there is a single light source against a dark background. Hasn't been annoying enough to send it in though. It's always noticeable on the end credits roll. As white text is scrolled upward, the color flashes between off-white hues of green, red or blue. This never happened on my AE2000. Sounds like things haven't changed much with their quality control.
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post #3484 of 3500 Old 07-01-2014, 08:13 AM
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[quote=irsh4life;25391330]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Did you take your AVR out of the HDMI signal chain and connect the projector directly to your cable box or video output source?

Yes, I tried it today and it still had the same issue with the reds bouncing. Looking at the problem more closer, you only really see it if the red objects is stationary. The main show I've see the problem with is "Undateable" on NBC, the pillow in their apt and all the barstools and napkins on the bar do it all the time
sounds like the Projector is ok if it is only with one show I lean toward they are pushing the red and the projector coupled with a larger than normal screen vise TV makes them POP. Hey you want your colors to POP don't you?
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post #3485 of 3500 Old 07-01-2014, 09:02 AM
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Stationary bright red colored objects bouncing

sounds like the Projector is ok if it is only with one show I lean toward they are pushing the red and the projector coupled with a larger than normal screen vise TV makes them POP. Hey you want your colors to POP don't you?


I think I have narrowed it down further to stationary red, and this program has several stationary reds. Also, the TLC logo does it around the red letterbox as it is stationary too. I also saw it on an Arm and Hammer commercial on the logo at the end of the commercial, so it is not just 1 particular show. When a red object is in motion it is harder to see, so that is why I think it is only on stationary things. I have tried to trobuleshoot the issue, as I have replaced the HDMI cable,s switched DirectTv boxes, watched the same show on 3 different tvs in the house and they are all good, and then I hooked up my old projector to the same setup as the Panasonic and it was good too. Crazy thing is, I got the replacement Panasonic and the 2nd one has the same issue, so it is something Panasonic is doing. Any suggestions?
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post #3486 of 3500 Old 07-04-2014, 08:55 PM
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Mounting for 2.4 Zoom

I apologize if this has been mentioned but I wasn't sure how to search for an answer.


Does the Panny 8000 need to be mounted so that middle of the lens is at least as low as the upper edge of the screen in order to properly zoom from 16:9 to 2.4? I would rather mount the PJ as high as possible since it will be directly over the seats.
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post #3487 of 3500 Old 07-07-2014, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA_Hi_Fi_Guy View Post
I apologize if this has been mentioned but I wasn't sure how to search for an answer.


Does the Panny 8000 need to be mounted so that middle of the lens is at least as low as the upper edge of the screen in order to properly zoom from 16:9 to 2.4? I would rather mount the PJ as high as possible since it will be directly over the seats.
No problem. This thread is pretty massive.

You can get away with being above the top of the screen, but it will depend on your specific setup. I am about 2" above the upper edge and zoom just fine from 16:9 to 2.4. You just need to use a combination of the manual shift (joystick) and the v-area position. Obviously there is a limit to how high you can go, so play around with it before you finalize your mounting height.
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post #3488 of 3500 Old 07-07-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post
No problem. This thread is pretty massive.

You can get away with being above the top of the screen, but it will depend on your specific setup. I am about 2" above the upper edge and zoom just fine from 16:9 to 2.4. You just need to use a combination of the manual shift (joystick) and the v-area position. Obviously there is a limit to how high you can go, so play around with it before you finalize your mounting height.
Thanks, that's good to hear. I just need 2-3 inches similar to yours.
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post #3489 of 3500 Old 07-08-2014, 11:05 AM
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I am having an issue that I wonder if anyone knows how to deal with. I put on a 2.35:1 movie Skyfall and the projector goes to the settings that I saved. Then I put on another 2.35:1 movie MI2 and it processes and does not fit in the screen like Skyfall did. The same thing happens with 16:9 movies. And it always seems the movies extend below the screen, never above. See pics below
Skyfall


MI2

Last edited by Claybe; 07-08-2014 at 11:18 AM.
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post #3490 of 3500 Old 07-09-2014, 05:40 PM
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Depends on the source and the mastering.

You should calculate a small spare, when you set up the screen settings for automatic lens memory.

For example:
If you fit up the screen settings for an 1:2.39 or 1:2.40 movie. A 1:2.35 movie does not fit.
If you fit up the screen for 1:1.85 movie - the next 16:9 (1:1.78) movie does also not fit.

Otherwise you could set up the settings for the most important screen formats, and switch manually to the right format which is saved in Lens Memory.

You should do it for: 1:2.35, 1:2.40, 1:1.85, 1:1.78. Optional for 1:2.20, 1:2.50. For the old 1.1.33 format you can use the 1:1.78(16:9) setting.

Additional you should use the blanking function.
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post #3491 of 3500 Old 07-09-2014, 09:16 PM
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I am noticing that fonts in windows do not look clear... Is there a special font or setting to make them look clearer? When I use XBMC as my media player the fonts look fine. Interesting that it looks its worst in Cinema 2 mode.

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post #3492 of 3500 Old 07-10-2014, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinema1fan View Post
Depends on the source and the mastering.

You should calculate a small spare, when you set up the screen settings for automatic lens memory.

For example:
If you fit up the screen settings for an 1:2.39 or 1:2.40 movie. A 1:2.35 movie does not fit.
If you fit up the screen for 1:1.85 movie - the next 16:9 (1:1.78) movie does also not fit.

Otherwise you could set up the settings for the most important screen formats, and switch manually to the right format which is saved in Lens Memory.

You should do it for: 1:2.35, 1:2.40, 1:1.85, 1:1.78. Optional for 1:2.20, 1:2.50. For the old 1.1.33 format you can use the 1:1.78(16:9) setting.

Additional you should use the blanking function.
What is the blanking function???
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post #3493 of 3500 Old 07-10-2014, 05:52 PM
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What is the blanking function???

Please look at your manual (page 76 - Lens control menue - masking area).

A blank mask set the bars arround the picture to deep black.

For example:
1. Configure the lens for an 1:2.40 movie exactly to your screen
2. Use the upper and lower masking area to blank out the bars.
3. Save the screen settings and use it for automatic 1:2.35 lens memory
If the movie is now 1:2.35, the black bars are smaller. So you will lost in this settings some lines, but the picture is fit to your screen.

I set my CinemaScope to 1:2.35 for automatic lens switching, and blank a little bit more for extra wide movies.
The function is also very useful to blank the left/right bars for 16:9 or 4:3 movies.
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post #3494 of 3500 Old 07-10-2014, 09:03 PM
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Serial Port Commands

I've got a USB to Serial Port cable connecting my projector to my HTPC. I'm wanting to use the HTPC to switch between lens memory settings because I can't find a direct IR code to jump to them. I've got the proper code to change between the menu items, but I guess I'm not sending them to the projector properly. Can someone help me with a step by step, with proper syntax, to do this? I'm using Windows 7 and have telnet installed if that matters. My comm port is set to Com1.

After I figure out that part, I'm going to make scripts and use my Harmony remote trigger them via shortcut keys I'll program into windows. Am I making this harder than it needs to be?
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post #3495 of 3500 Old 07-11-2014, 10:31 AM
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Hey everyone,

I have an issue with my new projector that I haven't been able to find much info on. I have a blue tinted streak/area along the left side of my screen when zoomed out for 16:9 projection. This streak completely disappears when zoomed in for scope viewing. It is very noticeable during dark scenes.

I tried manually zooming in to expand the picture little by little, and there is an exact spot shortly after expanding past the top and bottom of my scope screen where the blue tinted area completely disappears. While zooming back out to shrink the screen to fit the 16:9 area, the blue tint returns at the same exact position every time. This happens before actually reaching the final 16:9 image size.

Also, I'm having issues with the focus. I save the settings for my different aspects, but after a day I will return and the same setting will be out of focus. Not only that, but it is almost impossible to get even focus all around when using my HTPC or even with DirecTv.

I did see something mentioned about the focus a few pages back so I'll re-read those posts.

After spending so much money and time setting everything up, this is a bit disappointing and slightly overwhelming just to think about having to deal with repair.

Sorry for the grainy picture, but I think you'll be able to see what I'm talking about. I also shot a video of the bar appearing after zooming but am struggling a bit to get it uploaded.



Thanks everyone
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo.jpg (166.8 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by S Russ; 07-11-2014 at 02:04 PM.
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post #3496 of 3500 Old 07-11-2014, 12:24 PM
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Is there a way to disable it from looking at all the sources? I would like it to only look at HDMI 1, and Computer in.

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post #3497 of 3500 Old 07-11-2014, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinema1fan View Post
What is the blanking function???

Please look at your manual (page 76 - Lens control menue - masking area).

A blank mask set the bars arround the picture to deep black.

For example:
1. Configure the lens for an 1:2.40 movie exactly to your screen
2. Use the upper and lower masking area to blank out the bars.
3. Save the screen settings and use it for automatic 1:2.35 lens memory
If the movie is now 1:2.35, the black bars are smaller. So you will lost in this settings some lines, but the picture is fit to your screen.

I set my CinemaScope to 1:2.35 for automatic lens switching, and blank a little bit more for extra wide movies.
The function is also very useful to blank the left/right bars for 16:9 or 4:3 movies.
Okay just confusion of terms. I know what masking is, but didn't understand blanking was the same thing. Also, is there a way to make the masking bars a deeper black? I notice them when playing a 1:2.35 movie. Maybe that will change when I paint the walls and install a screen wall?!?
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post #3498 of 3500 Old 07-11-2014, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claybe View Post
Okay just confusion of terms. I know what masking is, but didn't understand blanking was the same thing. Also, is there a way to make the masking bars a deeper black? I notice them when playing a 1:2.35 movie. Maybe that will change when I paint the walls and install a screen wall?!?
Of course, that's the way to bring the bars to a deeper black.

When I understand that right, bars outside the masking area will not supply with the source signal from the movie. Blu-ray movies are stored in standard cinema brightness levels 16-236. The allowed brightness is defined from 0-255, used also in hdmi-extended for supported sources.

If the outside area of the chip will not receive signals, the level should be Zero. And this should be darker like a black bar with level 16.

You have to try it - and you will see what happen.
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post #3499 of 3500 Old 07-12-2014, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I am noticing that fonts in windows do not look clear... Is there a special font or setting to make them look clearer? When I use XBMC as my media player the fonts look fine. Interesting that it looks its worst in Cinema 2 mode.
Try turning on ClearType and run through the ClearType wizard to set the text for best display.
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post #3500 of 3500 Old 07-12-2014, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AYColumbia View Post
Try turning on ClearType and run through the ClearType wizard to set the text for best display.
Thanks, I will try that.

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