Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 142 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 03-05-2015, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckg1 View Post
I think that panasonic uses a pink lens filter on cinema 1 mode.Did you try rec 709 mode? I was just looking at the Panasonic factory
video's on projector peoples website in which the panasonic rep mentioned the pink filter.
I have tried all modes, and they all exhibit the same pink hue, although with different intensities.

Quote:
Originally Posted by netman View Post
Me? I tried all modes. It is always there at those 2 corners and very bearable using sensible brightness settings. As you can imagine with a 92 inch screen you can generate an amazing amount of light with this thing and at those levels it becomes noticeable but those are settings like a TV in a TV store.
Agreed. This pj puts out some light! I'm sure it will be required for 3D viewing, but for 2D I've only needed to use Eco-Mode so far.

Enjoy Listening!
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Old 03-05-2015, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukefame56 View Post
Also currently a 7000 owner, looking into the 8K.
You mention the brightness difference between the 7K and 8K is considerable.
that's great.
Hows the 3D?
Is the ghosting any improved from the 7K.
Cause' the 7K was pretty bad!
I moved from the 7k to the 8k 2.5 years ago now when they first came out primarily for the better brightness and the better 3d.

Sadly I was very disappointed.

Sure the 3d is brighter on the 8k, a lot brighter, but it comes at the cost of A LOT more crosstalk / ghosting.

I actually just replaced it yesterday with a new JVC x500 and the differences are staggering. But I digress, I am not here to tote the JVC vs the Panny.

The brightness though was the biggest difference overall, it is eye burningly bright in normal 2d use.

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Old 03-05-2015, 07:38 PM
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I keep it in Eco mode 100% of the time. With the brightness loss in 3D, I turned the 3D brightness setting to "bright", which works well.

It's getting old, though, every time I switch a source, or the source changes from 2D to 3D or something, and the projector blacks out for 3-4 seconds, with the fan howling in standard mode. When it syncs back up, the fan goes back into Eco mode and goes silent, and the picture comes back. I don't know why the fan has to howl out of Eco mode every time this happens.
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Old 03-06-2015, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buttecreeker View Post
I have tried all modes, and they all exhibit the same pink hue, although with different intensities.



Agreed. This pj puts out some light! I'm sure it will be required for 3D viewing, but for 2D I've only needed to use Eco-Mode so far.
Too bad the eco setting cannot be remembered in a memory save. That would be the most irritating feature for me. I have a memory for 3D but I still need to go to the eco setting and put it to normal.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buttecreeker View Post
I have tried all modes, and they all exhibit the same pink hue, although with different intensities.
If no matter what you do this pinkish hue remains, is it possible you are simply watching the exact same reference material each time, namely the hockey game you have recorded IIRC, and that it itself has a slightly pinkish hue due to the original camera's poorly set white balance? Just askin'. Have you looked at gray scale test patterns, which are truly neutral, and tried playing around with the pj's color temperature? [Sorry if this has already been covered. I'm new here, but have owned Panny pjs for over a decade.]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netman View Post
Too bad the eco setting cannot be remembered in a memory save. That would be the most irritating feature for me. I have a memory for 3D but I still need to go to the eco setting and put it to normal.
I didn't realize that. I was hoping to just save all the 3D settings, and that would be that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Dotur View Post
I keep it in Eco mode 100% of the time. With the brightness loss in 3D, I turned the 3D brightness setting to "bright", which works well.
I will give that setting a go, once I get up and running on 3D. That may be a good work around, regarding the memory save not saving every setting.

Enjoy Listening!
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Old 03-06-2015, 02:06 PM
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Yeah, I personally don't see a need to have multiple settings. I have the standard reference calibration that I use, with 3D brightness enabled so that when it goes into 3D mode, it automatically increases brightness. "Set it, and forget it".
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Old 03-06-2015, 04:09 PM
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If you're talking about "3D eyewear brightness" setting in the 3D menu, that doesn't change the image brightness of what's projected. It alters the amount of time the glasses' shutters block light. It controls the trade off between ghosting and image darkness when viewed through the glasses.
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Old 03-06-2015, 04:16 PM
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Personally, I have a picture setting for 3D which is a SUPER bright setting that I calibrated with Video Essentials while using the 2D to 3D conversion function.
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:18 PM
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Hello,


Does anyone know if my current mount for my pt ae4000u will work with the 8000? I've tried looking up pics of the bottom of the 8000 but can't find anything.


Any help is appreciated, thanks!

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Old 03-11-2015, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draden1 View Post
Hello,


Does anyone know if my current mount for my pt ae4000u will work with the 8000? I've tried looking up pics of the bottom of the 8000 but can't find anything.


Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Yes. And probably with no adjustments. At least mine did.


Mike
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Old 03-12-2015, 01:27 PM
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Thanks, that $1500 price right now is tempting.

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Old 03-13-2015, 09:22 AM
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blurry image - misconvergence

Hi,

I'm having the same problem as JasonSuave in post #257, paladaxar in post #2981, and HTMG in post #2837 . Here is my screenshots (below). Is this typical of the AE8000U, or should I send this unit back?

The misconvergence is off by several pixels. Note that these are projector generated menu text -- so there's no source issues. It is much worse than my DLP projector that the AE8000U replaced and I didn't expect it to be this bad.

Thanks,

Scott
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Last edited by 645824; 03-13-2015 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 645824 View Post
The misconvergence is off by several pixels.
Since I don't see individual R, G, and B, but rather more of a blur, I suspect technically it is off by <1 pixel, not sure, but things might be easier to see if you walk right up to your screen, look at single pixels near the central area and focus via remote control until they are as sharp as possible. By quickly tapping the remote buttons, rather than holding them down, you should be able to achieve nice, tiny focus adjustments, back and forth, until you can even start to see the quad field structure of the smooth screen technology. Once focused this precisely [not really necessary for normal viewing, BTW] then you can more accurately assess just how off the convergence really is. Here's an example, of a nicely aligned (convergence) older Panny pj I once had, where you can just start to see the quad structure of the individual pixels in the single pixel width white lines on the top part of the image, photographed from a foot or so away from the screen center [note the camera's shadow in the lower right]. Convergence this accurate in the corners of the screen is more rare; they are usually where it is the worst overall.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Since I don't see individual R, G, and B, but rather more of a blur, I suspect technically it is off by <1 pixel, not sure, but things might be easier to see if you walk right up to your screen, look at single pixels near the central area and focus via remote control until they are as sharp as possible. By quickly tapping the remote buttons, rather than holding them down, you should be able to achieve nice, tiny focus adjustments, back and forth, until you can even start to see the quad field structure of the smooth screen technology. Once focused this precisely [not really necessary for normal viewing, BTW] then you can more accurately assess just how off the convergence really is. Here's an example, of a nicely aligned (convergence) older Panny pj I once had, where you can just start to see the quad structure of the individual pixels in the single pixel width white lines on the top part of the image, photographed from a foot or so away from the screen center [note the camera's shadow in the lower right]. Convergence this accurate in the corners of the screen is more rare; they are usually where it is the worst overall.
Yes, I had already done that that focus in front of the screen. And THIS is indeed the best focus that I can get. Tapping one way or the other on the Focus via the remote makes these images more blurry.

Thanks,

Scott
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:42 AM
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Well there's always a bit of variance with these things. 99% of us in this thread have owned, and therefore critically inspected, only a few in our lives. Only a true technician who has seen dozens would have a really good feel for how bad yours actually is compared to the norm. Maybe you could send your images to one of them? Sorry, wish I could be more definitive.
Good luck.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:36 PM
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It appears that people can set up PS 3 to stream 3D to there 8000. However I can't seem to get it to work. I get an error from the DVD that says either my tv or DVD player does not support 3d.
My PS3 is updated with latest firmware. I am not using high speed hdmi.
Not sure how to trouble shoot.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks


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Old 03-13-2015, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 645824 View Post
Yes, I had already done that that focus in front of the screen. And THIS is indeed the best focus that I can get.
I forgot to mention I don't advise using the supplied focus grid. Instead if you hit the enter button you get the option to use the current input and use a dedicated pattern, such as this:
http://www.avsforum.com/photopost/da..._pattern_1.png
Note, I would still suggest focusing on the central part since it is what is most important, but knowing what is going on in the always somewhat inferior corners helps. I actually use this image to get a rough focus but then using the tap, tap, tap method I then concentrate on trying to focus on the LCD panel grid structure, in the image's white background, as best I can [but that smooth screen technology does a bang up job of obscuring it! As it should.]


Also keep in mind that one should NEVER adjust their image by pointing the body of the projector itself, instead the front of the projector should be perfectly square to the projected screen and aiming is accomplished with the lens shift lever. If your pj is instead askew, the corners get warped and I suspect out of focus. [In an ideal world you actually shouldn't use very much of this control and should shoot as straight forward as possible.] .

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

Last edited by m. zillch; 03-13-2015 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 03-13-2015, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I forgot to mention I don't advise using the supplied focus grid. Instead if you hit the enter button you get the option to use the current input and use a dedicated pattern, such as this:
http://www.avsforum.com/photopost/da..._pattern_1.png
Note, I would still suggest focusing on the central part since it is what is most important, but knowing what is going on in the always somewhat inferior corners helps. I actually use this image to get a rough focus but then using the tap, tap, tap method I then concentrate on trying to focus on the LCD panel grid structure, in the image's white background, as best I can [but that smooth screen technology does a bang up job of obscuring it! As it should.]


Also keep in mind that one should NEVER adjust their image by pointing the body of the projector itself, instead the front of the projector should be perfectly square to the projected screen and aiming is accomplished with the lens shift lever. If your pj is instead askew, the corners get warped and I suspect out of focus. [In an ideal world you actually shouldn't use very much of this control and should shoot as straight forward as possible.] .
Thank you m.zillch. As you can see from my photos (post# 4243), I wasn't using the focus grid, I was using some projector-generated text (white on black). My assumption is that the text is supposed to be single-pixel; and white-on-black should be the easiest to detect problems. I did this so that I didn't have issues with a source. I've seen other people's photos that show this text clearly (post# 1464).


My projector is mounted on the ceiling (upside down). The Steward Filmscreen Gray 108" wide screen is 14 feet away. The projector is horizontal (parallel to ceiling) and I used the lens shift level to adjust the image placement. The projector is centered on the screen.


Since I just bought this projector and received it yesterday, I contacted my vendor and sent them the photos. They agreed that this was pretty bad. I've asked them to open a new-box projector, verify operation, and send that to me to swap-out.

Thanks to all,

Scott
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:30 PM
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My projector has gotten noticeably dimmer with time, so dim that it was hard to read the directv menu and I use a Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 gain screen. The original bulb was on 3450 hours. I changed the bulb with a new one and now it is brighter, but not like it should be. It is still dim and but I can notice now lots of very faint 'brownish' smudges that look like small streaks all over the screen from a second or two of light rain (not actually on the screen though, but from the image of the projector). Something, I believe these abberrations, is making the projector whites looks more off white and the whole picture dim. What is going on here? It's not on eco, and its on 'normal' picture. I think the dimness even with the new bulb is due to something being dirty. But what? I changed the filter, the bulb recess area was pretty clean. Any ideas on what is going on and what to do about it?

Thanks.
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Old 03-14-2015, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmalibu View Post
It appears that people can set up PS 3 to stream 3D to there 8000. However I can't seem to get it to work. I get an error from the DVD that says either my tv or DVD player does not support 3d.
My PS3 is updated with latest firmware. I am not using high speed hdmi.
Not sure how to trouble shoot.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks


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jd, to get a PS3 to output 3D, you need to tell it what resolutions the TV can accept. You need to go into the settings, and if you're able to get the PS3 to auto-detect your TV and all its acceptable resolutions, including 3D, then do that. If it won't do it by auto, you'll have to manually check that/those box(es).
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Old 03-14-2015, 05:54 PM
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My PT-AE800U has 2500 hours on it, and it seems to me like the black level has gotten worse over time.. is this common and is there anything I can do about it? Replace the 3LCD panel or something? seems excessive..
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:13 PM
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I've never heard of LCD panels or polarizers fading over years of use [although failure and burning issues are possible, but that wouldn't be a uniform change in black level or brightness, it would be blotchy in nature], but bulbs do definitely change over time, hence periodic re-calibration is in order. There is a very strong marked change in the first 100 hrs or so, which is why a detailed and lengthy calibration while the bulb is new makes no sense since you'll have to do it again after 100 hours. From 101 to 4000 hours the bulb dimming should be a fairly uniform slow descent after a long plateau, although the plateau has a downward slope too:


l *************************************
l**************************************
l ************************************100hr mark
l *****************************
l ****************************
l ****************************
l ****************************
l ****************************1Khrs
l ****************************
l ****************************
l****************************
l****************************
l***************************
l**************************
l**************************2Khrs
l**************************
l**************************
l *************************
l*************************
l*************************
l************************3Khs
l***********************
l***********************
l**********************
l**********************
l**********************
l*********************4Khrs
l********************
l*******************
l******************
l*****************
l***************5Khrs
l**************
l***********
l*********
0hr to 100hr (very bright), 1Khr (average), 2-4Khr (gradual decline), 4- 5Khr [You are around 1/2 brightness or so and the liklyhood of popping (exploding) grows dramatically now, so you really should replace.]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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Old 03-15-2015, 03:53 AM
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I bought the PT-AE8000 some weeks ago and send it back because it was hardly giving of enough light, especially in the black areas it was more dark grey. I still don't understand what the problem was. But whatever mode I put it in the light output remained the same. I come from a Epson TW3200 ( 8350 us model ) and that was more then enough light to fill up my wall with very good dynamics.
Because this retailer was very hard on return policy ( they didn't want lamp usage ) I only tried it out for 2 hours ( and they even threatened to hold back 30% of my cash, which they finally paid after a couple of weeks ).
Was there anything I was doing wrong ? I read on projector reviews that turning off the automatic iris the lumens drops from 1898 to 1255, this would indeed be too little from my projection distance which is 15 feet ). Perhaps this was the reason ? I must say the automatic iris gave a very high pitched annoying noise.
Also I found the picture to be very soft.
The frame interpolation was very good though.
Is this a PJ which just works better in a near dark room ?
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seijen74 View Post
Is this a PJ which just works better in a near dark room ?
I personally can't imagine using this pj comfortably in anything other than a 99% dark room.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I personally can't imagine using this pj comfortably in anything other than a 99% dark room.
I use mine in a room that gets a fair bit of light from outside. I do have the sliding door light blocked, but it's far from a blackout shade. The 8000 is plenty bright for use in a normal room or with the lights on.


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Old 03-15-2015, 12:32 PM
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Well I guess these things also matter besides what personally considers "acceptable", which itself varies:
- Throw distance used
- ECO mode status
- REC 709 vs other mode use
- iris status
- projected image size zoom setting
- 3D use vs 2D
- what is an "acceptable" black level and contrast
- screen (being used) reflectivity and gain

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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Old 03-15-2015, 07:24 PM
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Nah, this pj is a great choice for someone who does not have a dark room, it handles a bright room better than most.

Of course any pj will look much better in a dark room, but if you are stuck with a bright room and want a pj, this is a great choice. Better than the jvc or Epson.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenkelby View Post
Nah, this pj is a great choice for someone who does not have a dark room, it handles a bright room better than most.

Of course any pj will look much better in a dark room, but if you are stuck with a bright room and want a pj, this is a great choice. Better than the jvc or Epson.
Perhaps in dynamic having the autoamtic iris off is what lowered the quality ? Projector reviews calculated it drops the light from 1898 to 1255 lumen.
Can anybody comment on what the light output does when turning of the AI in dynamic ?
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Old 03-16-2015, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seijen74 View Post
Can anybody comment on what the light output does when turning of the AI in dynamic ?
It depends on the signal content's brightness, contrast, and uniformity across the entire frame/field . With some material engaging the dynamic, constantly varying iris is nearly impossible to detect, in any mode, and would not be described as causing any sense of dimming, yet in others it would be stronger. It senses the incoming material and alters its aperature width constantly. [When not working ideally, during a dead quiet movie scene, in earlier Panny pjs I've owned, it can even make a flapping noise as it snaps back and forth between being mostly open to mostly shut. This is very rare though.]

Although you can probably find some person with a light meter who found "X value" in change, between it being on vs off, their measurement really only applies to the specific material they happened to use at the time of the test.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

Last edited by m. zillch; 03-16-2015 at 01:58 AM.
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