Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 154 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4591 of 4619 Old 08-03-2015, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
Yep, straight to the projector and then to the power outlet at the other end!

So, you are not at risk of having a loose connection with an extension cable. In my case that was a "big" deal as I'm running the power cord on a finished ceiling. Only thing was to test it before everything was done and then re-patch the holes at the walls and it was a done deal.

I hope this helps.
What type of component shelf do you have your projector sitting on?
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post #4592 of 4619 Old 08-03-2015, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by writtensarcasm View Post
What type of component shelf do you have your projector sitting on?
This is the one:

OmniMount ECSB Component Shelf
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post #4593 of 4619 Old 08-03-2015, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by writtensarcasm View Post
What type of component shelf do you have your projector sitting on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
Stranger danger! Stranger danger!
Hey, what's up Brian?

Finally, I had a chance to check back at AVS. I need to stop by at your HT thread to see what new do you have in store........... I bet it is going to be old tomorrow when you upgrade to something else.............LOL

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post #4594 of 4619 Old 08-04-2015, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
Hey, what's up Brian?

Finally, I had a chance to check back at AVS. I need to stop by at your HT thread to see what new do you have in store........... I bet it is going to be old tomorrow when you upgrade to something else.............LOL

Haven't upgraded in a loooong time beleive it or not.

But I am actually going backwards. Back to Atmos.

But the ae8000 is working flawlessly. Love the picture
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post #4595 of 4619 Old 08-06-2015, 01:00 PM
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PT-AER8000U (note the R)

I have the opportunity to buy a 8000U via a program at work (at various anniversary dates, you get xxxx points to buy "stuff" through a 3rd party). Unfortunately, the 3rd party is truly an intermediary between me and their vendors, so getting any kind of answers out of them is basically impossible.

For this group, here is my question: They refer to the model as a "PT-AER8000U", note the "R", and I'm unable to find a reference to this anywhere. Anybody heard of this this variant? I'm wondering if R=Refurbished? Or maybe a Typo.

I already asked them if this was a 2012 model (since I see those on Amazon - not sure of the difference) and they couldn't answer that. My next two questions for them are about model# difference and the warranty, but since it takes them 48+ hours to reply, I thought I would try here.

Thanks,
James

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post #4596 of 4619 Old 08-06-2015, 01:39 PM
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Why not call Panasonic directly?
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post #4597 of 4619 Old 08-06-2015, 02:26 PM
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To get maximum brightness the projector should be as close to the screen as possible, but I’m wondering how much difference the zoom makes. From Projector Reviews:
“Mike took these initial PT-AE8000U brightness measurements “right out of the box”. Note that we set the zoom lens at the middle point, so we do not get as many lumens as a manufactuer would, as they all measure at wide angle – closest, which is almost always brighter than mid-point or zooming all the way out.”

http://www.projectorreviews.com/pana...r-performance/

Does anyone know how big is the brightness difference, comparing wide zoom to smallest zoom?

Last edited by Silva741; 08-06-2015 at 05:19 PM.
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post #4598 of 4619 Old 08-06-2015, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tek-noid View Post
They refer to the model as a "PT-AER8000U", note the "R", and I'm unable to find a reference to this anywhere. Anybody heard of this this variant? I'm wondering if R=Refurbished? Or maybe a Typo.
There's no such animal. It is probably just a typo.[Notice the letter R falls just to the right of the key for E on our keyboards.]

Typically when companies sell secondary goods such as "b-stock" the designation comes at the end of the model number, not in the middle of it.

example: Panasonic PTAE8000U-B

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #4599 of 4619 Old 08-15-2015, 11:44 PM
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Question Does the 8000 have Smooth Screen like the 2000?

Longtime user of the PT-AE2000U, which I love.

I can't figure out from Panasonic's web site whether their "Smooth Screen" technology in the 2000 is still in use by the 8000.

"Smooth Screen" is the use the two sheets of crystals that each produce a slightly-shifted duplicate image - one shifted horizontally and one shifted vertically - that between them mostly fill in the gaps between pixels, mitigating the "Screen Door Effect" associated with older projectors, with no loss of sharpness.

The grid surrounding the pixels, instead of being black is simply slightly dimmer than the adjacent pixels. It can be used for focusing with the remote while standing at the screen, but it's essentially invisible beyond a few feet away.

Does anyone here know the answer to this?

UPDATE:
Nevermind - a more intensive search of Panny's website found a sales pitch for Smooth Screen on the 8000 page, so it's still in use on the 8000.


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post #4600 of 4619 Old 08-20-2015, 02:50 PM
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Unhappy Flickering visible in bright/white areas of image.

I just returned my PT-AE8000U to ProjectorPeople because I was seeing a rapid flickering in bright/white areas of the image. It was almost like that effect you get when you shoot at a high frame rate and then playback. ProjectorPeople was going to send me a replacement unit, but they called with info that this just may be an issue that occurs at certain distances and that certain people are sensitive to. My throw distance is 15-16 ft, onto a 128" screen. They recommended I upgrade to the Sony HW40.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm debating on whether or not I should just get them to ship me a replacement. I've always wanted LCoS but I'm not sure about the Sony. I really liked having the powered focus/zoom/lens memory on the Panasonic.

Halp!
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post #4601 of 4619 Old 08-20-2015, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulpblogger View Post
I just returned my PT-AE8000U to ProjectorPeople because I was seeing a rapid flickering in bright/white areas of the image. It was almost like that effect you get when you shoot at a high frame rate and then playback. ProjectorPeople was going to send me a replacement unit, but they called with info that this just may be an issue that occurs at certain distances and that certain people are sensitive to. My throw distance is 15-16 ft, onto a 128" screen. They recommended I upgrade to the Sony HW40.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm debating on whether or not I should just get them to ship me a replacement. I've always wanted LCoS but I'm not sure about the Sony. I really liked having the powered focus/zoom/lens memory on the Panasonic.

Halp!
The reason they may want to switch you into the Sony is because for a long time now Panasonic units have suffered from "LoProfitus Marginus".

Bulbs sometimes flicker for the same reason lightbulbs in run down gas station restrooms do: there is a metal contact, usually where the lamp/bulb plugs in, which heats up from the bulb being turned on and as the metal expands, as metal does from heat, the electrical contact is broken, the metal cools and contracts, the connection is remade, and this cycle which happens many times per second causes a flashing.

On the other hand if there is some "issue that occurs at certain distances and that certain people are sensitive to" they should be able to cite it by name or direct you to a known link, not written by them, which discusses it. If they can't then I call B.S.

Of course I'm discussing 2D video. If all this time you've meant with 3D, that's a whole different matter. For that I've always assumed flicker is sort of endemic to the technology itself, even when using active glasses. And indeed some people may be more bothered by it than others.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #4602 of 4619 Old 08-21-2015, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for the reply m. zillch,

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Bulbs sometimes flicker for the same reason lightbulbs in run down gas station restrooms do: there is a metal contact, usually where the lamp/bulb plugs in, which heats up from the bulb being turned on and as the metal expands, as metal does from heat, the electrical contact is broken, the metal cools and contracts, the connection is remade, and this cycle which happens many times per second causes a flashing.
Is this something that could be corrected with something like bulb grease?


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On the other hand if there is some "issue that occurs at certain distances and that certain people are sensitive to" they should be able to cite it by name or direct you to a known link, not written by them, which discusses it. If they can't then I call B.S.
They didn't offer any info beyond anecdotal evidence. They did refer to it as "shimmer." Though to me, shimmer sounds like something you would want in certain scenes rather than something you don't want in most scenes. I did find in the manual a note that says "In some rare cases, depending on the usage environment a “flickering” may appear on the screen due to the effects of air from the exhaust port or hot/cold air from air conditioners. Do not set up this projector in a situation where air from the exhaust of this device or other devices, or air from air conditioners is circulated to the front of this device." I do admittedly have the projector mounted up on a wall in between two A/C registers (about 36" out and away from either, vents are angled down and away). Though the flicker I encountered was persistent, not just when the A/C was cycled on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Of course I'm discussing 2D video. If all this time you've meant with 3D, that's a whole different matter. For that I've always assumed flicker is sort of endemic to the technology itself, even when using active glasses. And indeed some people may be more bothered by it than others.
Only tried the 2D.
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post #4603 of 4619 Old 08-21-2015, 10:55 AM
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I would stay away from "bulb grease", that may be deemed as breaking the warranty, however removing the bulb, inspecting the contacts in the unit and on the lamp itself, wiping them clean from oil/grime with a lint free micro-fiber cloth [the sort you clean eyeglasses with] might be in order. Also when reinserting the bulb be sure to push it in firmly so it is seated as far down as it possibly can be.

Ask other household members to inspect the image and see if there might be some truth to this "some individuals are more sensitive than others" claim, which is sort of true about flicker in general.

I concur that with the AC off you obviously can eliminate that as a possible cause.

You also might experiment with trying to see if the problem goes away from disengage all extra processing. Turn off the auto iris, the frame interpolation modes, and go to "game mode" which gives the least processing to the image so there is little lag.

You have a normal screen, not a micro-perforation acoustically "transparent" screen, right?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #4604 of 4619 Old 08-24-2015, 12:51 AM
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Hi all,
I cant seem to get the projector image sizing right.
I set it up to fill the CIH screen at 16:9 and save setting.
Then, I set up the 2.35 to fill the screen and saved it.

*I have to use the toggle joystick thing on the unit to achieve alignment on the screen.*

So when the projector is displaying 16:9 and it's all nicely lined up and then I chuck a movie
on (2.35) the projector then does it's 'image processing' thingy and then displays the
movie way off the screen. The image moves upwards off the screen, no sideways movement
if that makes sense.

I guess it's because I use the joystick but it's the only way I can seem to do it.

The projector is ceiling mounted. Roughly 400cm (13ft) throw to screen. The 2.35 image
to fill the screen is 2413cm (95in). Is the projector to close to do what I was hoping
it would do? I would be so happy if someone could help me out
Ryan

Panasonic PT-AE8000 & Panasonic P/THP65ST60A
Seymour AV 110" 2.35:1 AT Motorized Screen
Denon AVR4520
Denon DBT3313
Krix Surround 5.1
Playstation4

Last edited by rzan; 08-24-2015 at 01:12 AM.
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post #4605 of 4619 Old 08-24-2015, 06:01 AM
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First, turn OFF the Auto Lens Memory switching just for now.... You are correct in that the first thing you do is to perfectly align and set the projector for 16:9 material on your CIH screen... .using your actual lens position joystick and zoom and focus it up... Then save setting. You should have a perfectly centered 16:9 image on your screen with black bars on each side...

Then you need to throw on a widescreen title and the main thing you are going to be doing is using a combination of zoom and then go into the Lens controls menu and use the vertical lens shift offset to both zoom up and bring this big wider image into proper position on your screen. You don't touch the manual lens position joystick!... You may also end up tweaking the horizontal offset just bit also.. Then you will probably use just a bit of the Masking feature for the Horizontal on both the left and right sides...at least I did... especially if setting it up on a 2.40 title... which I see more of then actual 2.35 titles... Then,obviously save that setting. Now you can turn your Auto Lens Memory switching ON again.... If using a 2.40 source, you will have just a bit of tiny black bars on the very top and bottom..... but not even noticeable.

You should be left with an awesome looking and bright scope widescreen picture! I went from a 120 inch 16:9 screen to a 142 inch 2.35:1 screen and it is just amazing looking when the 8000 detects the widescreen movie and fills the whole screen! And because my scope screen is so big.. my 16:9 source material still ends up being around 115-116 inches.... so not really losing much for size at all on regular material.

I thought at first that I would be bothered by black bars on regular viewing material, but I do not notice them at all. What I do notice is the huge 2.35:1 widescreen picture though and how it really envelopes me. Literally, on those movies the width difference is about 2 feet compared to watching on my old screen!
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post #4606 of 4619 Old 08-24-2015, 07:03 AM
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And be sure to turn off the "Processing" message.

Mike
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post #4607 of 4619 Old 08-24-2015, 09:15 AM
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I rather like the "processing image" (optional) on screen prompt. It effectively alerts audience members, especially new ones:

"No need to be alarmed, there's nothing wrong and there's no need to alert the owner to this condition. The image will appear abnormal for the next several seconds, indicated by this on-screen visual prompt, as internal adjustments are being made due to a change in the source material's aspect ratio and how this projector has been setup to deal with such a situation."

This information has value and I'll be mad if Panasonic takes this option away in any future designs...If they make any future designs.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #4608 of 4619 Old 08-25-2015, 02:36 AM
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Thanks for that info Deano,

I'm away with work for a week still but look forward to getting home and sorting it out hopefully! Thanks for taking the time mate. I'll let you know how it goes on here later.

Panasonic PT-AE8000 & Panasonic P/THP65ST60A
Seymour AV 110" 2.35:1 AT Motorized Screen
Denon AVR4520
Denon DBT3313
Krix Surround 5.1
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post #4609 of 4619 Old 08-25-2015, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
First, turn OFF the Auto Lens Memory switching just for now.... You are correct in that the first thing you do is to perfectly align and set the projector for 16:9 material on your CIH screen... .using your actual lens position joystick and zoom and focus it up... Then save setting. You should have a perfectly centered 16:9 image on your screen with black bars on each side...

Then you need to throw on a widescreen title and the main thing you are going to be doing is using a combination of zoom and then go into the Lens controls menu and use the vertical lens shift offset to both zoom up and bring this big wider image into proper position on your screen. You don't touch the manual lens position joystick!... You may also end up tweaking the horizontal offset just bit also.. Then you will probably use just a bit of the Masking feature for the Horizontal on both the left and right sides...at least I did... especially if setting it up on a 2.40 title... which I see more of then actual 2.35 titles... Then,obviously save that setting. Now you can turn your Auto Lens Memory switching ON again.... If using a 2.40 source, you will have just a bit of tiny black bars on the very top and bottom..... but not even noticeable.

You should be left with an awesome looking and bright scope widescreen picture! I went from a 120 inch 16:9 screen to a 142 inch 2.35:1 screen and it is just amazing looking when the 8000 detects the widescreen movie and fills the whole screen! And because my scope screen is so big.. my 16:9 source material still ends up being around 115-116 inches.... so not really losing much for size at all on regular material.

I thought at first that I would be bothered by black bars on regular viewing material, but I do not notice them at all. What I do notice is the huge 2.35:1 widescreen picture though and how it really envelopes me. Literally, on those movies the width difference is about 2 feet compared to watching on my old screen!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rzan View Post
Thanks for that info Deano,

I'm away with work for a week still but look forward to getting home and sorting it out hopefully! Thanks for taking the time mate. I'll let you know how it goes on here later.
just remmember use the joystick for up and down on 16x9 first then left and right on 2.40:1 and raise image digitaly on 2.40:1 tighten that thing down but go back and check up and down on 16x9 as it may have drifted as you were doing 2.40:1 left and right.
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post #4610 of 4619 Old 08-28-2015, 09:38 PM
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Are there any discrete codes that can be used with a Logitech Harmony One? I'm specifically interested in lens and picture memory codes.

Thanks in advance!

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post #4611 of 4619 Old 08-29-2015, 11:42 AM
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Are there any discrete codes that can be used with a Logitech Harmony One? I'm specifically interested in lens and picture memory codes.

Thanks in advance!
For lens and picture memory, you have to use the RS-232 port on the projector and a programmable IR to RS-232 converter.
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post #4612 of 4619 Old Today, 08:46 AM
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So I have been using the AE 4000 daily since about 2010. Not sure if I should buy another bulb or upgrade to the AE 8000. Has anyone made that upgrade? How big of a difference will it be?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
For lens and picture memory, you have to use the RS-232 port on the projector and a programmable IR to RS-232 converter.

Oh ok, so no way to make a custom macro using a Logitech Harmony One? I need one of these converters?

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post #4614 of 4619 Old Today, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wizman2378 View Post
So I have been using the AE 4000 daily since about 2010. Not sure if I should buy another bulb or upgrade to the AE 8000. Has anyone made that upgrade? How big of a difference will it be?
I did. Actually I bought the 8000 but still use the 4000 in another room.
The difference is not great, I actually prefer the image adjustments (up,down,left,right) using the rotary wheels on the top of the 4000 much better than the little, hard to adjust precisely, joystick used on the 8000. If 3D and the other capabilities of the 8000 aren't needed it would be hard to recommend the upgrade, but then again the street price of the 8000 is only about 1.5K which would not just get you a new bulb but also a new warranty. Another advantage to getting into the newer design is that replacement parts are offerwed farther into the future, i.e. most manufacturers stop supplying parts seven years after production and since the 4000 is getting long in the tooth, replacement bulbs might be harder to come by a few years from now whereas owning the 8000 buys you a few more years. Also I'd say the 8000 has much better resale value because people think 3D is important. I tried it out to verify it works and have never touched it since, but the few movies out there in 3D tend not to be the kind of movies I watch. YMMV.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post
Oh ok, so no way to make a custom macro using a Logitech Harmony One? I need one of these converters?
That's correct.

Chet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
That's correct.

RS232 Serial Port IrDA Receptor & IR Infrared Adapter for PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZF1O7W..._Hil5vb1FNZHMP

Is that what I need? Pardon my ignorance, but if that is what I need, how would I use that with the Logitech Harmony One? I have no clue what I would do next. Thanks for any help.

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post #4617 of 4619 Old Today, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post
RS232 Serial Port IrDA Receptor & IR Infrared Adapter for PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZF1O7W..._Hil5vb1FNZHMP

Is that what I need? Pardon my ignorance, but if that is what I need, how would I use that with the Logitech Harmony One? I have no clue what I would do next. Thanks for any help.
OK, I looked in my documentation and found this:

You need the IR232 from Industrologic. When you place your order, be sure to get the enclosure and USB/Serial Converter.

You will need to hook up the IR232 to your laptop via USB to program it. Here is the thread from Wojtek that taught me all of this: Panny PT-AE4000U over RS232

And here is the documentation that shows the RS-232 commands for the PT-AE8000U (Start on Page 10).
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Chet

Last edited by ckenisell; Today at 01:36 PM.
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Outstanding!!! Thanks, brother.

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post #4619 of 4619 Old Today, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
OK, I looked in my documentation and found this:

You need the IR232 from Industrologic. When you place your order, be sure to get the enclosure and USB/Serial Converter.

You will need to hook up the IR232 to your laptop via USB to program it. Here is the thread from Wojtek that taught me all of this: Panny PT-AE4000U over RS232

And here is the documentation that shows the RS-232 commands for the PT-AE8000U (Start on Page 10).

Hey man, none of those links work for me. [emoji30]

Efrain "AviatorBimmer" Ruiz
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