Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 155 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4621 of 4632 Old 09-01-2015, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post
Using iRule, I created a macro that runs through the PJ menu and then toggles between my two lens settings (Widescreen and Cinemascope). Now I just press a button and it goes by itself. It takes about 5-10s because I have extra wait times in there just to be sure (especially when exiting the menu) but it works like a champ and all members of the family can run it without issues.


Sounds interesting... Will definitely check this out because I am definitely not spending $90 on additional equipment just to save a few keypresses. It's a shame Panasonic could not make it easier to access the individual settings with a remote like a Harmony.

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post #4622 of 4632 Old 09-01-2015, 03:42 PM
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I used to have a Harmony remote many moons ago and I thought you could create crude macros. Could you just copy what I have above ? You would have to assign the PJ Function Key to LENS memory function.
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post #4623 of 4632 Old 09-01-2015, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post
I used to have a Harmony remote many moons ago and I thought you could create crude macros. Could you just copy what I have above ? You would have to assign the PJ Function Key to LENS memory function.

I will give it a try but I am kinda interested in this iRule approach as well. I'm guessing iRule is similar to a Harmony?

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post #4624 of 4632 Old 09-01-2015, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post
I used to have a Harmony remote many moons ago and I thought you could create crude macros. Could you just copy what I have above ? You would have to assign the PJ Function Key to LENS memory function.

I got it working with the Harmony! I created a sequence button for each memory position using the sequence you posted above and it worked like a charm!

Of course, I tweaked the delays a bit but after some trial and error, I can switch back and forth from 16:9 (memory slot 1) and 2.35 (memory slot 2). Tomorrow I will save slots for 2.39/2.40 ratios and create the sequence macros for them.

You are a life saver, brother! Thanks! [emoji106]

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post #4625 of 4632 Old 09-02-2015, 03:46 PM
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I have a question and hopefully someone can help. I am in the process of setting up my htpc. When I hook up my ps3 and play a blu-ray it fits my screen perfectly (Interstellar with 2.39:1 ratio) My screen is a 142" wide 2.40:1 screen. When i play a movie off my htpc that I have ripped and have on my server it is not big enough to fit the screen. I will even zoom the projector in all the way but the image is just a bit to small. Anyone know why a movie on my server is a little smaller than playing one off my ps3? Thanks for any help
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post #4626 of 4632 Old 09-02-2015, 05:59 PM
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Is blooming a known issue with these projectors? This is the second brand new 8000u I try and with just 30 hours on the clock, it has started blooming. SMH

It's very apparent on light colored text/graphics on dark colored backgrounds.

Even the projector's menu shows an extreme case of blooming.

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post #4627 of 4632 Old 09-02-2015, 10:24 PM
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PTAE8000 Ceiling Mount Question

Just upgraded from a PTAE3000. On the 3000 I had to have the lens inside the border of the screen to get 2.35:1 and 16x9 switch to work properly. Is this the same case for the 8000? If not how far above the screen can I put the 8000 on a 16 foot throw with a 138 inch screen?
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post #4628 of 4632 Old 09-02-2015, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post
Is blooming a known issue with these projectors?
Yes, many have been reported, but most are fine. [Mine has no issues but I've read this thread for about a year now] I guess you've had some really bad luck. Sorry.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #4629 of 4632 Old Yesterday, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mackr0s View Post
Just upgraded from a PTAE3000. On the 3000 I had to have the lens inside the border of the screen to get 2.35:1 and 16x9 switch to work properly. Is this the same case for the 8000? If not how far above the screen can I put the 8000 on a 16 foot throw with a 138 inch screen?
My lens is about 2" above the screen and the auto switching is perfect, and I still have room to go a little higher. I'm at about 17ish feet on a 120" wide 2.35. Unfortunately there is no standard calculation that I have found, so it is basically trial and error. But I can tell you that depending on the throw distance and screen size you definitely do not have to be within the border.
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post #4630 of 4632 Old Yesterday, 07:20 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I have about 25 inches of drop I have to cover due to a front vaulted ceiling. I purchased both these and will return the one I don't use:

Peerless - 12.6-Inch to 20.6-Inch Adjustable Projector Ceiling Mount
Peerless - 19.1-Inch to 32.6-Inch Adjustable Projector Ceiling Mount

My experience in the past is Bass tends to shake projector mounts. Is there a way to dampen that?
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post #4631 of 4632 Old Yesterday, 10:22 AM
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There are three pathways by which bass can shake the works and blur the image:

1 -shaking the screen cloth
2 -shaking the pj via the air vibrations striking the cabinet
3 -shaking the pj via the mounting pole to the ceiling

#1 is hard to deal with other than adding a heavier screen with more mass, hence not as easy to shake, or add a baffling cloth right behind the screen to mellow the problem from at least one side.

#2 is dealt with by placing the pj in a well vented hush box

#3 is dealt with by adding rubber/silicone dampening washers to the nuts and bolts of the support mount. This is only partly effective since you almost always still have a direct metal attachment to the beam above through the center of the bolt itself, even though you have rubberized the washer part.

The best solution is to build a flat resting platform, which hangs from the ceiling and the pj rests on top of it, but with silicon/sorbathane pods under each of the pj's feet, plus the connection wires for incoming AC power and video signal need to be coiled into a spring shape to minimize their ability to conduct vibration.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #4632 of 4632 Old Yesterday, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
There are three pathways by which bass can shake the works and blur the image:

1 -shaking the screen cloth
2 -shaking the pj via the air vibrations striking the cabinet
3 -shaking the pj via the mounting pole to the ceiling

#1 is hard to deal with other than adding a heavier screen with more mass, hence not as easy to shake, or add a baffling cloth right behind the screen to mellow the problem from at least one side.

#2 is dealt with by placing the pj in a well vented hush box

#3 is dealt with by adding rubber/silicone dampening washers to the nuts and bolts of the support mount. This is only partly effective since you almost always still have a direct metal attachment to the beam above through the center of the bolt itself, even though you have rubberized the washer part.

The best solution is to build a flat resting platform, which hangs from the ceiling and the pj rests on top of it, but with silicon/sorbathane pods under each of the pj's feet, plus the connection wires for incoming AC power and video signal need to be coiled into a spring shape to minimize their ability to conduct vibration.
Excellent thanks!
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