Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 157 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4681 of 5270 Old 10-15-2015, 11:34 AM
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Did I get you right? It here as in drawing?.
And quality in that case won't decrease. Or it is better when the image is cleaned both with a bottom and with top at the same time?
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post #4682 of 5270 Old 10-15-2015, 12:10 PM
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Yes, that will work.

Using the feature called "Auto Switching" turned on, when the projector detects 1.78 material it will display with the top edge of the projected image up high and when it detects 2.35 material it will move it downward, however the lower edge of the projected image will stay at the same height for both.

This alteration is because you have told the projector to switch from one of the preset lens memory positions to another [there are a maximum of 6 presets]. Image size (zoom), focus, and position can be altered to whatever the user wants for each lens memory preset.

There is a 5 second period while it undergoes this change which is not instantaneous. The word "processing" is shown on screen, to explain to the audience members why the image is changing (possibly) zoom, focus, and position, so they won't be alarmed. This word "processing" can be turned off if you don't want it to be shown.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4683 of 5270 Old 10-15-2015, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
There is a 5 second period while it undergoes this change which is not instantaneous. The word "processing" is shown on screen, to explain to the audience members why the image is changing (possibly) zoom, focus, and position, so they won't be alarmed. This word "processing" can be turned off if you don't want it to be shown.
I have personally thought about turning on this auto switching feature for Christopher Nolan movies that switch between IMAX and 2.35:1 ratios. I like that I have turned off the processing message and that it is now a relatively smooth transition. I wonder if it would take me out of the movie watching experience every time it changes?

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post #4684 of 5270 Old 10-15-2015, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
I have personally thought about turning on this auto switching feature for Christopher Nolan movies that switch between IMAX and 2.35:1 ratios. I like that I have turned off the processing message and that it is now a relatively smooth transition. I wonder if it would take me out of the movie watching experience every time it changes?
For me it does.

For multi ratio movies I turn auto switching off for 1.85 detection. The iMac scenes are framed so if shown on a masked 2.35 screen you don't miss any important visuals
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post #4685 of 5270 Old 10-15-2015, 01:08 PM
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For me it does.

For multi ratio movies I turn auto switching off for 1.85 detection. The iMac scenes are framed so if shown on a masked 2.35 screen you don't miss any important visuals
Yeah, but I don't want to miss any of it, even if it's not considered "important visuals".

The only other option is to frame for 1:85 and have black bars at top and bottom for 2:35.

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post #4686 of 5270 Old 10-15-2015, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
Yeah, but I don't want to miss any of it, even if it's not considered "important visuals".

The only other option is to frame for 1:85 and have black bars at top and bottom for 2:35.
True. But most of the movie is in 2.35. So I'd rather have the picture bigger most of the time but ymmv
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post #4687 of 5270 Old 10-16-2015, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
I have personally thought about turning on this auto switching feature for Christopher Nolan movies that switch between IMAX and 2.35:1 ratios. I like that I have turned off the processing message and that it is now a relatively smooth transition. I wonder if it would take me out of the movie watching experience every time it changes?
The switching happens so much in his movies, that it annoys me...especially within a few seconds and the pj is still trying to catch up. However, the VUDU copy of Interstellar streams in 2.35 straight thru, the ratio I prefer and no switching...trying to convey an imax image on a 16:9 home screen is absurd...he should just keep it 2.35 for the BD releases.

On a general note...I have recommended this pj mostly because of the power zoom and lens memory...it easily beats out anything in its class because of this invaluable feature alone. Watched Jurassic World and realized it was 2.00:1 ratio...something pretty rare except for some Netflix titles. It's such a convenience not having to get up to make manual adjustments each time...instead just adjust the lens and save to a memory...all from the remote...done.
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post #4688 of 5270 Old 10-16-2015, 09:32 PM
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guys,

I'm getting a strange jitter when watching movies. Character movements are well jittery at times and it is quite distracting. I'm not sure how to diagnose where the problem is. I am running netflix from apple tv through hdmi to a denon 2100x then to my panny 8000u. When I run nexflix/apple tv/ to plasma tv no issues (thus ruling out a streaming problem). Have any of you guys had issues with this. Could it be my receiver?
Thanks
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post #4689 of 5270 Old 10-17-2015, 07:10 PM
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So I sent my 8000u to Heartland for convergence issues; as expected they suggest replacing the optical block. Any guess as to the cost? $1750 plus 100 bucks to ship it back. What's up with that? Fortunately I have an extended warranty but curious if anyone has been quoted similar? It shouldn't cost more than a new one to replace one component!
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post #4690 of 5270 Old 10-17-2015, 08:02 PM
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The sum of the cost of parts to build something is always more than the cost of the unit.

In space, no one can hear you scream . . .
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post #4691 of 5270 Old 10-19-2015, 05:00 AM
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This has probably been covered here already but I didn't have time to look through this entire thread. Can the panel alignment be adjusted in this projector's settings? And if so, where is this located in the menus and what are the best test patterns to use? Thanks.
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post #4692 of 5270 Old 10-19-2015, 05:31 AM
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TO my knowledge there is no way of adjusting the panels in somekind of hidden menu, there is a hidden menu on the projector but it has nothing to do with panel alignment.

The issue will most likely require you to have it fixed but be aware I had a projector sent back to Panasonic who said the issue was with the optical block. Richer Sounds kindly gave me another one however i have noticed that there is a convergence issue on this over the past week, went into the store today and it appears Panasonic sent the old projector back and the issue was still there so it has been sent back again!

Im going to give it a couple of months and see how it plays out but it appears this is quite a common issue on these projectors so when new models come out later this year i may consider trading it in, Richer Sounds have been great for sure but it still a pain as i really love this projector!
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post #4693 of 5270 Old 10-19-2015, 07:22 AM
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I recently picked up one of these second hand and after cleaning off the dust blobs am pretty happy with it as a set up from an Epson 8350 and as a stop-gap towards a 4K machine in a few years.

I have a question about the 3-D performance - setting it up in a reasonable compromise between brightness and ghosting I can usually get a nice 3-D image. But then sometimes, on repeating a scene, I will get a double image in one or both eyes. I've tried adjusting the 3-D viewing mode off the default and it sometimes clears it up, but then reoccurs. What's confusing me is that even if I activate the Panasonic glasses 2-D mode I will still see the double image - which leads me to believe the projector is doing something dynamically in the background. I've checked with multiple 3-D titles and glasses (all Panasonic) and it's the same on all of them. I can be watching for 10-20 minutes perfectly, and then the double imaging occurs. I've turned off the dynamic iris, adjusted the glasses darkness, played with ECO and normal lamp, tried dynamic, normal, & cinema settings, and it still happens. For reference, titles I'm using are Hugo, Kiss Me Kate, 3-D Rarities, Dragonfly Squadron.

Any ideas?
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post #4694 of 5270 Old 10-19-2015, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJPete View Post
...sometimes, on repeating a scene, I will get a double image in one or both eyes. I've tried adjusting the 3-D viewing mode off the default and it sometimes clears it up, but then reoccurs. What's confusing me is that even if I activate the Panasonic glasses 2-D mode I will still see the double image - which leads me to believe the projector is doing something dynamically in the background. I've checked with multiple 3-D titles and glasses (all Panasonic) and it's the same on all of them. I can be watching for 10-20 minutes perfectly, and then the double imaging occurs. I've turned off the dynamic iris, adjusted the glasses darkness, played with ECO and normal lamp, tried dynamic, normal, & cinema settings, and it still happens.

Any ideas?
Yeah, it's the same for everybody. The active shutters on the Panasonic projectors are too slow. Ghosting occurs constantly for me in 3D. The 8000U is better than the 7000U, but not by a huge amount.

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post #4695 of 5270 Old 10-19-2015, 10:30 AM
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Yeah, it's the same for everybody. The active shutters on the Panasonic projectors are too slow. Ghosting occurs constantly for me in 3D. The 8000U is better than the 7000U, but not by a huge amount.
Thanks, I was hoping that *wasn't* the case but after reading here and other places it looks like it's just a limitation of the machine.

EDIT - after reading extensively here and elsewhere it looks like it's a limitation of the machine as another friend has it and experiences some of the same issue. It'll never have the performance of a DLP for 3-D but everything else is really good on it.

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post #4696 of 5270 Old 10-19-2015, 02:02 PM
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The 3D performance on my 8000 has been flawless... Looks fantastic, in fact, I am able to use the 3D eyewear brightness menu setting at Light.. I couldn't do that with my 7000...

You definitely have something weird going on there... Have you also tried swapping out your HDMI cable?...or tried another input on your 8000? Although not real likely, it could be an issue with your blu Ray player... Definitely try and reseat all other HDMI cable connections also...receiver, etc.
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post #4697 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 04:39 AM
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So on Friday my wife and I watched Fast and Furious 7 and all seemed well.

Monday I turned on the projector and had my PS4 on, in the dash, and noticed quite a bit of flicker on the light colored blue background. It's even more noticeable on a white background.

I've never changed my bulb since I bought this projector, and I've had it since the first week or so it was out.

Is this a sign that the bulb is about to go, or could this be a sign of something else that is worse?
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post #4698 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 07:20 AM
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So on Friday my wife and I watched Fast and Furious 7 and all seemed well.

Monday I turned on the projector and had my PS4 on, in the dash, and noticed quite a bit of flicker on the light colored blue background. It's even more noticeable on a white background.

I've never changed my bulb since I bought this projector, and I've had it since the first week or so it was out.

Is this a sign that the bulb is about to go, or could this be a sign of something else that is worse?
Could be the bulb - how many hours on it? If you're past 3000 hours I'd try a new bulb before anything else if the flicker is there on all sources.
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post #4699 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 07:31 AM
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Could be the bulb - how many hours on it? If you're past 3000 hours I'd try a new bulb before anything else if the flicker is there on all sources.
I'll have to check the hours, but I'd guess it is around 3000. Last time I checked it was like 1920, but, I don't remember at all when that was lol.

I'll have to check other sources too, as I didn't have time to do that yet. I did watch FF7 on my PS4 Saturday, and there definitely was no flicker. So the same source is now flickering. I'll see if I have time to try out another source this evening though to verify that it happens on all sources.

That said, where do you guys recommend buying bulbs from? Is a 3rd party brand from like ebay okay? Or is getting a 1st party one better in this case?
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post #4700 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 08:10 AM
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That said, where do you guys recommend buying bulbs from? Is a 3rd party brand from like ebay okay? Or is getting a 1st party one better in this case?
I would never replace my bulb with a non-Panasonic third party brand. Ever.
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post #4701 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 08:13 AM
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I would never replace my bulb with a non-Panasonic third party brand. Ever.
Where is the recommended place to buy genuine Panasonic bulbs from?
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post #4702 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 08:41 AM
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Where is the recommended place to buy genuine Panasonic bulbs from?
ProjectorPeople.com
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post #4703 of 5270 Old 10-21-2015, 01:14 PM
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Agreed. Never buy third party for this. [I do for all sorts of things other than this, mind you.] I buy genuine bulbs or "lamps" as they call them from B&H Photo and Video in NY, NY. Provantage also is an authorized dealer that many here recommend.

The third party dealers use all sorts of slimy tricks to make you think what they offer, for much less, is "just as good". Don't fall for it. Also be dead sure that the product you buy is a Panasonic brand product, not Panasonic "equivalent, uses the same OEM bulb" and uses their trademarked blue logo on the box.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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post #4704 of 5270 Old 10-22-2015, 01:58 PM
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I just sent my PT-AE8000U in for service and apparently it needs a new Analysis Block and lamp (not sure about the lamp as it is genuine and has 800 hours on it) but the total is $1274. What should I do? 30 day warranty on the repairs . I could buy a new one for $1700 and have 3 year warranty so I'm leaning toward that.

I asked if the polarizers and LCDs were okay and he said yes. But I thought that was part of the Analysis block? He said the Analysis block as haze trapped in it and something got hot at some point and burned something to do with the Analysis block. Any ideas or comments about this? Will a new Analysis block get me new LCDs and polarizers (even though he acted like it was separate)?

Thanks!
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post #4705 of 5270 Old 10-22-2015, 06:27 PM
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I just sent my PT-AE8000U in for service and apparently it needs a new Analysis Block and lamp (not sure about the lamp as it is genuine and has 800 hours on it) but the total is $1274. What should I do? 30 day warranty on the repairs . I could buy a new one for $1700 and have 3 year warranty so I'm leaning toward that.

I asked if the polarizers and LCDs were okay and he said yes. But I thought that was part of the Analysis block? He said the Analysis block as haze trapped in it and something got hot at some point and burned something to do with the Analysis block. Any ideas or comments about this? Will a new Analysis block get me new LCDs and polarizers (even though he acted like it was separate)?

Thanks!
Buy new. Keep old one for parts. Use a UPS so the fans never lose power and cook the panels in the event of a power outage.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4706 of 5270 Old 10-23-2015, 08:23 AM
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What is the warranty of Panasonic Bulbs?

B&H Photo said 1 year and the Panasonic Service Center says 90 days. I'm confused and getting irritated....

Also, Panasonic service Center charges $90 to ship (+ $15 handling) the projector back to me or $140 if they insist the bulb (blemished they say) needs to be shipping separately!? I shipped the projector to them for $25 (including $1000 insurance)! This is looking like a screw job. I was told after I told them how much shipping cost me that I could provide them a UPS label to use and you bet I would!

Lastly, if I'm not going to get it repaired, and I don't want the projector any more, why should I pay them the $130 diagnostic fee? I asked if they could keep it and refurbish or whatever and she said they could only dispose of it but I still had to pay the diagnostic fee and some small disposal fee. This is such a bummer.
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post #4707 of 5270 Old 10-23-2015, 09:30 AM
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B&H Photo said 1 year and the Panasonic Service Center says 90 days.
I've owned Panny pjs for years and traditionally I've always heard "90 days". If Panny told you 90 then that's pretty much it, however if you have a direct correspondence from B&H that says "365 days" then it is possible if THEY are a service center that they'd feel obligated to honor that quote if you bring it to their attention with documentation.

A repair price of "$1247" sounds more like a replacement with a new one at their effective cost price. I kind of doubt you'd actually get back the same projector, but who knows?

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Lastly, if I'm not going to get it repaired, and I don't want the projector any more, why should I pay them the $130 diagnostic fee?
Because they spent time and labor to open it up and work on it. If however they kept these fees secret from you and said merely "We'll let you know", then that's a slimy way to do business. Did you sign anything or were you ever given a statement of repair conditions?

I'm not sure how your refusal to pay this fee and allow them to do as they feel fit with the dead unit would hold up in court if they pressured you to pay that fee, which I kind of doubt they'd bother pursuing if you don't. Ethically, if they kept this price information from you prior to their work, and you can show that they did, my personal belief, but I'm not a lawyer, is that they'd lose in court. What, for example, would keep them from asking for a "$10,000 diagnostic and disposal fee, please"?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4708 of 5270 Old 10-23-2015, 01:31 PM
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I've owned Panny pjs for years and traditionally I've always heard "90 days". If Panny told you 90 then that's pretty much it, however if you have a direct correspondence from B&H that says "365 days" then it is possible if THEY are a service center that they'd feel obligated to honor that quote if you bring it to their attention with documentation.

A repair price of "$1247" sounds more like a replacement with a new one at their effective cost price. I kind of doubt you'd actually get back the same projector, but who knows?


Because they spent time and labor to open it up and work on it. If however they kept these fees secret from you and said merely "We'll let you know", then that's a slimy way to do business. Did you sign anything or were you ever given a statement of repair conditions?

I'm not sure how your refusal to pay this fee and allow them to do as they feel fit with the dead unit would hold up in court if they pressured you to pay that fee, which I kind of doubt they'd bother pursuing if you don't. Ethically, if they kept this price information from you prior to their work, and you can show that they did, my personal belief, but I'm not a lawyer, is that they'd lose in court. What, for example, would keep them from asking for a "$10,000 diagnostic and disposal fee, please"?
No, it sounds like I will be getting my projecter back back cleaned, with a new Analysis Block and lamp.

Yeah, I would pay them their fee but their shipping is ridiculous ($90) and for a $1700 projector, the repair seems pretty high. I'd hate to spend $200+ getting this one back to then spend $1700 on a new one, so I am thinking about just getting it repair although I don't know if that is the wisest move for a 30 warranty vs a new 3 year warranty. So it's either:

New Panny, 3 year warranty ($1700) + old Panny diagnostics/shipping (provide my own shipping label) ($160ish) = $1860

OR

Old Panny Repaired, new bulb, 30 day warranty = $1225

Which would you do?
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post #4709 of 5270 Old 10-23-2015, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by robininni View Post
No, it sounds like I will be getting my projecter back back cleaned, with a new Analysis Block and lamp.

Yeah, I would pay them their fee but their shipping is ridiculous ($90) and for a $1700 projector, the repair seems pretty high. I'd hate to spend $200+ getting this one back to then spend $1700 on a new one, so I am thinking about just getting it repair although I don't know if that is the wisest move for a 30 warranty vs a new 3 year warranty. So it's either:

New Panny, 3 year warranty ($1700) + old Panny diagnostics/shipping (provide my own shipping label) ($160ish) = $1860

OR

Old Panny Repaired, new bulb, 30 day warranty = $1225

Which would you do?
New panny all day for me. It's worth the extra money (and yes 600$ is a lot to me )
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post #4710 of 5270 Old 10-23-2015, 04:27 PM
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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