Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 163 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4861 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 04:07 PM
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My video was taken down for "copyright infringement"?
From my perspective it was an educational, fair use video which used short sequences, under a minute each, NOT full frame, I make no profit on, of credited video (HBO. Are they related to FOX?), which I provided no audio, it was silent, taken by a cheap camera pointed at a projector screen to illustrate a concept related to aspect ratio.


If I show still images, instead, will that also be taken down? Anyone know?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 12-11-2015 at 04:25 PM.
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post #4862 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 04:26 PM
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That's really weird that Fox removed that. I have been searching since I tried viewing your video. It looks like Time Warner owns HBO. It's funny yours was taken down so quick, as I have been researching projector performance on YouTube I see several Fox owned clips that never seem to get the attention of Fox.
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post #4863 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 06:04 PM
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I've made all sorts of changes. This is for education purposes only and qualifies as fair use:



In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4864 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 06:11 PM
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I have a serious question. This one will determine if I have to return this projector. There are not many things that will drive me nuts, but this one does. My pj has a trapezoid image. The top horizontal is shorter than the bottom. This makes the vertical edges pinch inward on the way up. Business pjs that I own and use have a trapezoid adjustment in the menus to make the straight. There is none that I have found with the PT-AE8000u. When playing a BRD, the movie image is squared. The edge of the movie is not at the edge of the total projection area. You can see the "black bars" (lack of a better term) on the sides and they go up at a diagonal.

I am at a loss on how to correct this. If I can't find a solution, it will get sent back unfortunately. After 20-30 minutes of looking at it, I cannot look at it any longer.

Gear: Denon AVR-X3200W; Chane A5rx-c Main L/R, Chane A2rx-c center; Elemental Design A5-350 Subwoofer; Panasonic PT-AE8000U; MOnoprice Surrounds; Screen skimmed, waiting to be painted
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post #4865 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 06:21 PM
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Trapezoidal images are usually a result of not squarely placing the front lens perfectlty parallel to the screen surface [well, say you leave the lens cap on so it so it is a "flat surface" too, not a dome].


It is generally best to obtain as square an image as possible using this method and only using the distortion compensation adjustments, which I assure you this projector does have, as a last resort.


There is an overwhelming tendency for people, including vets like me, to nudge their projected image up/down/L/R by slightly nudging the projector, or the mount it projects from. DON'T! Remember the pj must always be square to the front screen, you never are to move it, and ONLY do your U/D/L/R adjustments via the joystick.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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post #4866 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Trapezoidal images are usually a result of not squarely placing the front lens perfectlty parallel to the screen surface [well, say you leave the lens cap on so it so it is a "flat surface" too, not a dome].


It is generally best to obtain as square an image as possible using this method and only using the distortion compensation adjustments, which I assure you this projector does have, as a last resort.


There is an overwhelming tendency for people, including vets like me, to nudge their projected image up/down/L/R by slightly nudging the projector, or the mount it projects from. DON'T! Remember the pj must always be square to the front screen, you never are to move it, and ONLY do your U/D/L/R adjustments via the joystick.
OK, this would make sense. Never thought of it because all business pjs I work with have an adjustment for it. I can guarantee my pj is not square/parallel to the wall. Too late to look at it tonight. I will look at it in the morning.

Gear: Denon AVR-X3200W; Chane A5rx-c Main L/R, Chane A2rx-c center; Elemental Design A5-350 Subwoofer; Panasonic PT-AE8000U; MOnoprice Surrounds; Screen skimmed, waiting to be painted
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post #4867 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I've made all sorts of changes. This is for education purposes only and qualifies as fair use:


https://youtu.be/QmHdym5zB5w
I see. So this is the feature that detects a 2.40:1 image and automatically adjusts the picture to fit in a wide screen. You're saying this doesn't work well with lens shift? Why?

FYI, YouTube automatically takes videos down that it detects is using copyrighted content (based on audio mostly, but also video). Fox didn't specifically take down your video, but they were the ones who set up YouTube to take down particular content.
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post #4868 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by GunslingerBara View Post
I see. So this is the feature that detects a 2.40:1 image and automatically adjusts the picture to fit in a wide screen. You're saying this doesn't work well with lens shift? Why?
This guy explains it better than me:
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Correct, although the digital image shift feature has a relatively limited range (240 pixels for 2.40:1 aspect ratio). If the projector is mounted higher than the top of the CIH screen, the vertical shift when switching between 16:9 and 2.40:1 would exceed that range, and you would need to use the (manual) lens shift.

The newer JVC projectors include power zoom, power focus and power lens shift and will allow the projector to be mounted close to the ceiling.

Nobody wants to have to touch the manual joystick lens shift stick once set. The only way to do this and use the CIH feature on the 8000 is keep the pj fairly centered and no higher than about the top edge of the screen [or bottom of the screen if you project from desk mode]. Maybe you can sneek by with just a little more, but certainly any higher becomes a problem.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4869 of 5128 Old 12-11-2015, 10:12 PM
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I opted to not get a 16x9 or a 2.35:1 screen. I got something in between. First, let me explain why. Then we'll get to the screenshots and further explanations.

The first step was to get the projector (the 7000U at the time) to the house and mount in on the far back wall. I did this, so that I could zoom all the way out in order to get the largest height I possibly could get onto the projected wall. I then took a height measurement. It came out to 64" tall. Then, I put in some 2.35:1 content and zoomed out even further to take the largest width that I could project onto the wall. That came to 126" wide. So, I ordered a screen that was 126" x 64".


"But that is not 16x9 OR 2.35:1." you say and you'd be correct! It's 1.96875:1. "That's crazy talk! There's not a single movie in 1.96875:1" you say. And this time you'd be half correct. Here's why:

Here is 16x9 content and it takes up the maximum amount of height for my projected wall. The image can't get any larger without projecting onto the ceiling or projecting so low that the people's heads sitting in front would block a part of the bottom of the projected image from the second row seats. However, in this scenario, there are bars on both sides of the screen. People don't notice that, though, because we watch in a pitch black room and there is absolutely no light hitting the sides.

In order to accomplish this, the projector is mounted on the back wall just below the top of the screen and the lens is parallel to the screen. I use the joystick on the 8000U to manually set the vertical position of the 16x9 image while going back and forth between the mechanical zoom and the joystick (to set the height and vertical position of the image). Then, I use the joystick to place the image horizontally in the center (so that the left and right black bars are the same width.) Once that is complete, I save this as preset #1 and call it "16x9".


The next step is to display 2.35:1 content. When I first do this, I will have black bars on the top, bottom, left and right sides. So, I use the remote to zoom out until the image meets the left and right sides of the screen. I shouldn't have to adjust anything left or right with the joystick because it's already centered from setting the 16x9 image. Then, I use the "LENS CONTROL" > "V-AREA POSITION" settings to raise the 2:35 image to the top of the screen. I wanted to do this so that there was no black bar at the top. There is only one big black bar at the bottom to, again, minimize the risk of somebody's head getting in the way and also to somewhat simulate the seating of a big screen theater. Of course, I save those settings to lens memory preset #2 (calling it "2.35:1") and I never have to touch the joystick again.

Let me know your thoughts. I'd love to get your feedback.
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Last edited by ckenisell; 12-11-2015 at 10:21 PM.
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post #4870 of 5128 Old 12-12-2015, 01:23 AM
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Thanks m.zillch. When I woke, I leveled the pj front to back, it was drastically tilted forward. Once level, Keystone re-correction fixed the trapezoid issue. There is about a 1/4" or less edge all the way around between the picture edge and the image. It is almost not detectable. When I paint and border the screen, that will go away, unless I find a way to stretch the image ever so slightly.

Gear: Denon AVR-X3200W; Chane A5rx-c Main L/R, Chane A2rx-c center; Elemental Design A5-350 Subwoofer; Panasonic PT-AE8000U; MOnoprice Surrounds; Screen skimmed, waiting to be painted
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post #4871 of 5128 Old 12-12-2015, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by vkarthik View Post
Yup i pulled the trigger too. Never in our life we would see such a deal again for this one. It will disappear after some time.
Mine showed up about 10 days ago. The day it showed up I put it up on a table and watched a couple shows without doing anything other than focus and was blown away. I installed it using the free mount that came with it last Saturday morning and ran through the video tuning for a couple hours tweaking things. It's taken me a week to tear myself away from it to come back here and post. :-) Upgrading from the PT-AE900U this is just amazing. My wife usually doesn't notice much difference on stuff like this, but even she commented about how much brighter and sharper the picture is (I have it in eco mode). My kids (ages 11, 9 & 9) also noticed and commented how much better the picture is. I'm very happy with the upgrade!

I wasn't prepared for how much larger this unit is than my old one and was concerned about using the provided mount even though it's rated up to 50 lbs., but I have a 2x6 under a steel beam (covered in drywall), and used 4 two-inch lag screws to put the mount up (the 2.5" lag screws included were too long given there's a steel beam behind the 2x6 and drywall). It's more solid than I expected, and I'm pleased with how easy it was to actually put the PJ up once the base was attached to the ceiling. The entire mounting and aiming process only took about an hour (excluding the trip to the hardware store to pick up the lag screws).

I'm not sure if I'm going to fuss with 3D or not. My blu-ray player does 3D, but I don't have any discs and none of us are that crazy about it. It would require an upgrade to my receiver to pass it through, so I may just pass on picking up glasses.

I am very pleased with this projector. The PT-AE900U is going to be repurposed to an office projector since we're short on them at work right now and I'm tired of not having one when I need it for a meeting. ;-)

~Gary
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post #4872 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 07:40 AM
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The performance of the Playstation glasses is really good and the thing to do is the boiling water temple arm adjustment trick.... fill a tall glass with very hot or recently boiling water and dunk the temple arm in for about 30 seconds to a minute... then pull it out and gently reform the temple arm and tip to straighten it out... hold for a bit.... then dunk it into a cold glass of water to "set" it. Nice way to make the PS3 glasses more comfortable and not squeeze your head so damn tight and give you a headache!
Dumb question. Do you do this before every use?
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post #4873 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 08:27 AM
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Obviously No... lol! When you dunk them in cold water after adjusting them, they hold their new position... At least they did for me...made them much more comfortable..no more nasty squeezing at the back of your head...
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post #4874 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 10:17 AM
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I wonder if for game play the extra compression against the skull is actually beneficial: so the glasses don't fly off your head when you spin and thrash about violently, say when shooting off bad guys or slicing flying fruit with your samurai sword?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4875 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckenisell View Post
I opted to not get a 16x9 or a 2.35:1 screen. I got something in between. First, let me explain why. Then we'll get to the screenshots and further explanations.

The first step was to get the projector (the 7000U at the time) to the house and mount in on the far back wall. I did this, so that I could zoom all the way out in order to get the largest height I possibly could get onto the projected wall. I then took a height measurement. It came out to 64" tall. Then, I put in some 2.35:1 content and zoomed out even further to take the largest width that I could project onto the wall. That came to 126" wide. So, I ordered a screen that was 126" x 64".


"But that is not 16x9 OR 2.35:1." you say and you'd be correct! It's 1.96875:1. "That's crazy talk! There's not a single movie in 1.96875:1" you say. And this time you'd be half correct. Here's why:

Here is 16x9 content and it takes up the maximum amount of height for my projected wall. The image can't get any larger without projecting onto the ceiling or projecting so low that the people's heads sitting in front would block a part of the bottom of the projected image from the second row seats. However, in this scenario, there are bars on both sides of the screen. People don't notice that, though, because we watch in a pitch black room and there is absolutely no light hitting the sides.

In order to accomplish this, the projector is mounted on the back wall just below the top of the screen and the lens is parallel to the screen. I use the joystick on the 8000U to manually set the vertical position of the 16x9 image while going back and forth between the mechanical zoom and the joystick (to set the height and vertical position of the image). Then, I use the joystick to place the image horizontally in the center (so that the left and right black bars are the same width.) Once that is complete, I save this as preset #1 and call it "16x9".


The next step is to display 2.35:1 content. When I first do this, I will have black bars on the top, bottom, left and right sides. So, I use the remote to zoom out until the image meets the left and right sides of the screen. I shouldn't have to adjust anything left or right with the joystick because it's already centered from setting the 16x9 image. Then, I use the "LENS CONTROL" > "V-AREA POSITION" settings to raise the 2:35 image to the top of the screen. I wanted to do this so that there was no black bar at the top. There is only one big black bar at the bottom to, again, minimize the risk of somebody's head getting in the way and also to somewhat simulate the seating of a big screen theater. Of course, I save those settings to lens memory preset #2 (calling it "2.35:1") and I never have to touch the joystick again.

Let me know your thoughts. I'd love to get your feedback.
I love it! If I had a projector with the ability to memorize parallel settings like this (my old PT-AE2000U doesn't - and it's still going strong on its first replacement bulb) and if I had a big enough wall, I might do that too - it's the perfect way to always see films in their largest possible size.

As it is I just set it up for the largest 16:9 image (9' 6" by 5' 4.125") my wall accommodates (same size as your 16:9), starting just above the baseboard (the center channel speaker is mounted just over the screen), and I watch everything like that.

2.35:1 films are 9' 6" wide by 4' 0.51" high (10% smaller than yours in each dimension), and standard 4:3 "Academy" format material is 5' 4.124" high by 7' 1.5" wide.

Sitting ten feet back, my eyes are centered on the image in any format, and even the smallest of the images is satisfyingly large. My 2.35:1 format is only 90% as big in each dimension as yours - but it's still gratifyingly large from 10 feet away.

Since there are multiple variations within the Cinerama format that range all the way down to 2.20:1 (Stanley Kubrick's favorite format), do you set up additional presets for those?

Your and my approaches are a lot better than squeezing 16:9 films into a 2.35:1 Procrustean Bed,excuse me, "Constant Image Height" screen, that - since 16:9 has become the standard - forces most things to be projected far smaller than possible, just so that the curtains can occasionally be dramatically pulled aside while intoning "This is Cinerama." Plus, that setup gives the user conniptions when a film goes back and forth between the two formats, like Christopher Nolan's Batman films and Interstellar - just read the comments in the review threads for those films here.

With a fixed 16:9 setup, such films require no setup change, since the image stays centered in all formats. I'll bet you just set up in 16:9 for such films and let them play like that all the way through!

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post #4876 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 01:52 PM
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I love it!
Thanks! :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post
Since there are multiple variations within the Cinerama format that range all the way down to 2.20:1 (Stanley Kubrick's favorite format), do you set up additional presets for those?
Not really. I simply set 16x9, 2.35:1 & 2.40:1. Anything else, I am okay with a thin blank bar at the top.

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With a fixed 16:9 setup, such films require no setup change, since the image stays centered in all formats. I'll bet you just set up in 16:9 for such films and let them play like that all the way through!
Yes, for The Dark Night, The Dark Knight Rises and Interstellar, you are correct. 16x9 and forget it. I don't want the lens detecting and zooming during the movie.
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post #4877 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 10:39 PM
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I bought 3D glass for 19$ at the Amazon. I had couple of 3D disks. Journey to Mysterious Island 2, Promotheus, Adventures of TinTin. I was simply wowed by Journey to Mysterious Island 2. It looked like watching a different movie. Breathtaking 3D effects. Must watch in 3D.
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post #4878 of 5128 Old 12-15-2015, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary1104 View Post
Mine showed up about 10 days ago. The day it showed up I put it up on a table and watched a couple shows without doing anything other than focus and was blown away. I installed it using the free mount that came with it last Saturday morning and ran through the video tuning for a couple hours tweaking things. It's taken me a week to tear myself away from it to come back here and post. :-) Upgrading from the PT-AE900U this is just amazing. My wife usually doesn't notice much difference on stuff like this, but even she commented about how much brighter and sharper the picture is (I have it in eco mode). My kids (ages 11, 9 & 9) also noticed and commented how much better the picture is. I'm very happy with the upgrade!

I wasn't prepared for how much larger this unit is than my old one and was concerned about using the provided mount even though it's rated up to 50 lbs., but I have a 2x6 under a steel beam (covered in drywall), and used 4 two-inch lag screws to put the mount up (the 2.5" lag screws included were too long given there's a steel beam behind the 2x6 and drywall). It's more solid than I expected, and I'm pleased with how easy it was to actually put the PJ up once the base was attached to the ceiling. The entire mounting and aiming process only took about an hour (excluding the trip to the hardware store to pick up the lag screws).

I'm not sure if I'm going to fuss with 3D or not. My blu-ray player does 3D, but I don't have any discs and none of us are that crazy about it. It would require an upgrade to my receiver to pass it through, so I may just pass on picking up glasses.

I am very pleased with this projector. The PT-AE900U is going to be repurposed to an office projector since we're short on them at work right now and I'm tired of not having one when I need it for a meeting. ;-)

~Gary
As someone suggested you get it cheap ps3 3d glasses on Ebay or Amazon. Its only 20 bucks. Totally worth it.
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post #4879 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 09:15 AM
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3D Image

Hi I also took the plunge and bought the PT-AE8000U as well. I am very happy with the projector so far. I am projecting onto a painted wall 9.5' x about 5'. wanted to know if i neede the 1.4 HDMI cable to get the best 3D image. I an using regular HDMI cables and I an getting 3D, but wanted to know if the 1.4 HDMI will give more 3D effect and better color. When watching Age of Ultron thr white's are not as white as i think they should be. I am using a sony 3D model BDP-S790. 2D through my HTPC is awesome!

Thanks
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post #4880 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 10:01 AM
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3D bluray video over HDMI either works or it doesn't work. There are no differences in quality, just like answering the question: "Will HD movies recorded onto my new superfast, expensive hard drive look/sound better than the same movie recorded onto an old, cheap thumb drive." It is a digital signal, not analog, and any notion that one brand of digital interconnect "does a better job at reproducing reds" (or substitute red with other individual parameters such as whites, resolution, etc.) will not stand up to a double blind test.


From the FAQ page of HDMI.org, http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdm..._4_faq.aspx#19 :

"Will any of the new HDMI 1.4 features require a new cable?


The HDMI Ethernet Channel feature will require a new cable that supports this functionality, either a Standard HDMI Cable with Ethernet or a High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet, depending on the maximum resolution to be supported. The Automotive Connection System will also employ a new class of cable, the Standard Automotive HDMI cable, which is designed specifically for automotive use. All of the other new HDMI 1.4 features will be compatible with the existing categories of cables."

Since you aren't using an Ethernet communication signal (internet connectivity), nor is this an automotive (car) application, any existing high speed HDMI 1.3 cord will do everything you need it to.

Retailers will lie and insist you need to upgrade your cable for "improved resolution and color space", etc. but this is not true. What they are conveniently leaving out is that these improvements only occur using HDMI 1.4 when you are supplying a true 4K content signal to a 4K TV.

People using 4K TVs and content, plus certain other applications, need 1.4.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 12-16-2015 at 10:21 AM.
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post #4881 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 10:50 AM
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m. zillch said "From the FAQ page of HDMI.org, http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdm..._4_faq.aspx#19 :

"Will any of the new HDMI 1.4 features require a new cable?


The HDMI Ethernet Channel feature will require a new cable that supports this functionality, either a Standard HDMI Cable with Ethernet or a High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet, depending on the maximum resolution to be supported. The Automotive Connection System will also employ a new class of cable, the Standard Automotive HDMI cable, which is designed specifically for automotive use. All of the other new HDMI 1.4 features will be compatible with the existing categories of cables."

Since you aren't using an Ethernet communication signal (internet connectivity), nor is this an automotive (car) application, any existing high speed HDMI 1.3 cord will do everything you need it to.

Retailers will lie and insist you need to upgrade your cable for "improved resolution and color space", etc. but this is not true. What they are conveniently leaving out is that these improvements only occur using HDMI 1.4 when you are supplying a true 4K content signal to a 4K TV.

People using 4K TVs and content, plus certain other applications, need 1.4."

Thanks, what are the best settings for 3D to get the color rendition of 2D ?

Thanks,

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post #4882 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 11:05 AM
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Well, I got a bit of a runaround from the Newegg Marketplace seller, trying to convince me that this is a Gen-you-wine Pan-ah-sahn-ick lamp assembly. Heretofore, I had not removed it from the bubble wrap, since only "unused" items are returnable. The seller challenged me to open it up and compare it to the OE lamp and see if I agree that it is equivalent. Well, I took the challenge last night, and I don't agree. In addition to substandard packaging, no replacement filter, and no instructions in the box, here is what the "clone" looks like side-by-side to the OE unit. I think this is just a $150 eBay clone being sold for another $75 through Newegg.













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post #4883 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 11:37 AM
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Great job documenting the differences HMenke.

The paper label on the lens itself may indeed smoke or at least smell when heated, but I suspect it is covering something on the lens itself they don't want you to see. Could you post photos like the ones I did for the earlier Panasonic lamp I posted showing close ups of the bulb itself, including its ceramic base/foot (which on some lamps contains manufacturer info instead of the glass part), for real vs. fake? Thanks.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4884 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 12:01 PM
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I'm glad you found the info useful. The OEM lamp is back in my PJ and the clone is packed up for return. I have to say, the actual lamp looked identical in every way except for the sticker. I think that Ushio made the OEM lamp and these clone sellers make a big deal about saying that they also use a Ushio lamp. However, that's like saying that a Bentley GT had Continental tires and these are also Continental tires on this Ford Taurus. Just because it is a lamp made by Ushio does not mean it has the same internal materials, quality control, color, and light output. It's also not to say that these "Ushio" lamps aren't factory seconds that couldn't be used for OEM builds.
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post #4885 of 5128 Old 12-16-2015, 12:22 PM
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I went back and cropped in on the lamp photos that I had on hand.



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post #4886 of 5128 Old 12-17-2015, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post
[...] 16:9 has become the standard - forces most things to be projected far smaller than possible, just so that the curtains can occasionally be dramatically pulled aside while intoning "This is Cinerama." Plus, that setup gives the user conniptions when a film goes back and forth between the two formats, like Christopher Nolan's Batman films and Interstellar - just read the comments in the review threads for those films here.
Might be a bit OT, but when I watched The Dark Knight in Hollywood's IMAX theater back in 2008, I had the strongest "this is cinema"-effect ever when the screen was enlarged in the vertical dimension (from 2.35:1 to 1.43:1), not the other way round!
The best way to recreate this at home is obviously playing the Blu-Ray version centered on a 16:9 screen without any kind of zooming or shifting.

BR
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Last edited by Dr. BeSt; 12-17-2015 at 02:01 AM. Reason: IMAX aspect ratio corrected
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post #4887 of 5128 Old 12-17-2015, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post
The OEM lamp is back in my PJ and the clone is packed up for return. I have to say, the actual lamp looked identical in every way except for the sticker.

Maybe the sticker says, in Chinese, "Factory second. Throw away." Ha-ha. Just kidding. Or "Normal variety lamp, not red rich." Who knows?


Maybe they are the same, maybe not, but I find it strange that the genuine Panasonic one has NO markings on it, whatsoever, unlike the one I photographed from the earlier production Panny. Any possibility there are markings which are on the inside facing direction, hence nearly impossible to see, let alone photograph?


Should anyone be reading this (someday in the future) and be in the midst of changing bulbs, please take detailed close up photographs of the genuine Panny and post them for the benefit of all. Thanks.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #4888 of 5128 Old 12-17-2015, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by HMenke View Post
I went back and cropped in on the lamp photos that I had on hand.
I'm just now noticing the front metal trim on the clone is silver tone and the Panny is gold/champagne tone. Is that in actuality or just a photographic thing? [like variable auto white balance from the camera used]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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HDMI Auto Lip Sync

I just recognized that HDMI Auto Lip Sync doesn't seem to work for the AE8000 (in conjunction with an Onkyo TX-NR747 AV receiver). Picture lags behind the audio somewhere in the 70-140 ms range.

My research suggests that Panasonic's implementation of these HDMI "special features" called VIERA Link may not interoperate with other manufacturers' devices. Can you confirm that? If so, which audio delays (ms) did you set on your AVRs for 24p playback in Cinema mode?
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post #4890 of 5128 Old 12-17-2015, 12:24 PM
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Viera Link is just Panasonic's name for HDMI-CEC. I leave mine off because I have a universal remote and it is in charge of turning everything on and off. I don't want some secondary set of electronics deciding what peripheral devices connected to them are, at any given time, on or off: it can potentially screw up my Harmony remote's understanding of what devices it needs to send a toggle on/off IR blast of light to.


Knowing what lip synch time delay values others use is of no value unless they use the exact same AVR, TV, and the settings on both. For instance, using "game mode" vs. frame interpolation mode 2 [I forget what Panny calls that exactly], will yield different results. The scaler in the AVR may alter the results as well, and the best value for one source into one input may not be the same for the next. The distance one sits from their speakers may alter things too, at least in very large rooms: sound travels at roughly 1100ft/sec yet light is perceptually instantaneous, so a loudspeaker at 20 feet distance introduces approximately 18ms of delay, yet only half that for a small room with speakers 10 feet away. [Luckily I don't find lip synch to be a problem in this way, auto works just fine for me, but it certainly could be an issue for some users in some scenarios.]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 12-17-2015 at 12:27 PM.
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