Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 166 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!



Forum Jump: 
 260Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #4951 of 5232 Old 01-08-2016, 06:51 PM
AVS Special Member
 
TheaterChad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,260
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
Yes, that is correct......first you center your 1.78 image on your 2.35 screen using the manual lens position joystick and zoom settings... and then save that setting. Then when you play a 2.35 title, you zoom out the image to fill out the whole screen left and right, and you use the image offset adjustments in the menu( you don't touch the joystick at all) to re center the image vertically on your whole screen now.... then save it.
Thanks for posting this, I really need some help doing this, are you saying to use the manual lens position joystick on the projector itself, its basically on the side of the pj behind the lens shift cover?

I'm really trying hard to re-center the lens shift, then doing the rest.

I just finished my 130" diagonal seymour xd screen, trying to get both 1.78 ( 16:9 ) and 2.35:1 both saved, thanks.

Edit,

After playing around with the projector last night, I see the controls on the side are the same as the remote, I zoomed out to fill my 1.78 image, then saved that, the switched my aspect ratio to zoom, the zoomed out to fill my 130 wide, the used vertical position, then saved it, will have to play around with it, Avatar looked really good using Cinema2, and I havent done any specific calibration to make sure how square I am to the screen, thx

Last edited by TheaterChad; 01-09-2016 at 07:18 AM.
TheaterChad is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4952 of 5232 Old 01-09-2016, 08:42 PM
Member
 
razevents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 117
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Does anyone use the 8k with an anamorphic lens and scope screen? If so could you post a reply?

One question I have is if you are getting any pincushion from a flat scope screen and does the 8k have an anamorphic mode to account for this (Panamorph references such a mode)

Trying to decide on curved vs non curved screen. It's 600$ difference in the Seymour line so it will be good to know if I can use a flat without any of the anomalies.

Thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
razevents is offline  
post #4953 of 5232 Old 01-10-2016, 07:34 AM
Member
 
mrfurious214's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfurious214 View Post
I didn't search so this may have been posted. But I finally found out how to stop the screen juddering/shaking I was getting during dark, slow moving scenes. If I change my Mode to Game it does not ever do that. All other modes cause screen juddering (if that is a term). After using M. Zillch's tutorial on how to use Waveform Monitor adjust everything looks great!
Update: I'm using Game mode now and color accuracy looks great after using waveform monitor adjjst but blacks are washed out and whites too bright/white. I think my Gamma settings are messed up but I have never adjisted them. What is the best way to adjust by eye to get them right? Anyone have any settings for game mode I could try? I don't want to use other picture modes because then i get screen juddering during low light, slow moving scenes.
mrfurious214 is offline  
post #4954 of 5232 Old 01-10-2016, 08:01 AM
AVS Special Member
 
deano86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,698
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 158 Post(s)
Liked: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfurious214 View Post
Update: I'm using Game mode now and color accuracy looks great after using waveform monitor adjjst but blacks are washed out and whites too bright/white. I think my Gamma settings are messed up but I have never adjisted them. What is the best way to adjust by eye to get them right? Anyone have any settings for game mode I could try? I don't want to use other picture modes because then i get screen juddering during low light, slow moving scenes.
What test pattern did you use for the waveform monitor auto adjustment? If you used the wrong type of color bar pattern that does not also have the reference white level bar (235) and the reference black level bar (16) included, then it will most likely calibrate the max white and black levels incorrectly... resulting in your washed out blacks and cranked up whites..
deano86 is offline  
post #4955 of 5232 Old 01-10-2016, 07:50 PM
Member
 
Boostable's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Send a message via AIM to Boostable
Just installed mine last week, and really love it! The detail is amazing and im really loving the lens memory feature for easy setup between formats. Ran through the calibration a few times to make sure I was doing everything correctly and sat down for our first full movie, Interstellar. Enjoyed it, but man it was long!! Pan performed just as expected. I have a few more in the Q, but will wait for the 3D glasses to show up to test that out.

A little about my setup.. My screen is approx 126x54 or 137" diag. Im throwing from right at 18'. Im running the Pan in Eco mode with plenty of light to provide a crisp clear picture.

Thanks for all the tips here, it really helped me answer a lot of questions and get things setup correctly.

JW
Boostable is offline  
post #4956 of 5232 Old 01-11-2016, 12:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
absolootbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SW OH
Posts: 549
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by razevents View Post
Does anyone use the 8k with an anamorphic lens and scope screen? If so could you post a reply?

One question I have is if you are getting any pincushion from a flat scope screen and does the 8k have an anamorphic mode to account for this (Panamorph references such a mode)

Trying to decide on curved vs non curved screen. It's 600$ difference in the Seymour line so it will be good to know if I can use a flat without any of the anomalies.

Thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just recently started using a panamorph uh380 with my ae8000. 115" 2.35:1 non curved screen, ~13' throw distance. There is definite pin cushioning with my setup, but this will vary depending on the lens you use, and the throw distance you use it at. Despite being pretty detail obsessive, i really don't mind it. I simply zoomed a little so the narrower middle portions of the image fill my screen, and the larger corner portions spill over a little bit onto the black velvet screen borders. Barely, if at all, noticeable when watching scope content. Its a little noticeable when watching 16:9 content since i don't have masking so i lose the luxury of having side borders to catch the overspill and the slight curvature to the image sides is left visible. If you use the lens with a sled, this wouldn't be an issue, but i choose to keep it in place at all times.

There are no modes on the ae8000 that have any effect on pin cushioning. Even if the projector did have pin cusion correction it would be similar to keystone correction in that you would want to avoid it as it would be introducing processing into the image. And the anamorphic mode panamorph is referencing has nothing to do with pin cushioning. They're talking about a mode that will make a 2.35:1 image fill a 16:9 area (v-fit, v-stretch, etc). This then allows the lens to either stretch horizontally or compress vertically (depending on the lens) the image back to a 2.35:1 ratio. Without a mode like this, either built into the projector or as part of an external video scalar/processor, an anamorphic lens cannot be used. The 8000 does have this mode, as well as a 4:3 (horizontal squish) mode that lets you leave the lens in place for 16:9 content if you so choose.

absolootbs is offline  
post #4957 of 5232 Old 01-11-2016, 12:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by absolootbs View Post
Even if the projector did have pin cusion correction it would be similar to keystone correction in that you would want to avoid it as it would be introducing processing into the image. . .. And the anamorphic mode panamorph is referencing has nothing to do with pin cushioning. They're talking about a mode that will make a 2.35:1 image fill a 16:9 area (v-fit, v-stretch, etc). This then allows the lens to either stretch horizontally or compress vertically (depending on the lens) the image back to a 2.35:1 ratio. Without a mode like this, either built into the projector or as part of an external video scalar/processor, an anamorphic lens cannot be used. .

But isn't using such a mode a form of image (pixel re-mapping) processing, which as you just said, is best to not use?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
post #4958 of 5232 Old 01-11-2016, 12:38 PM
Advanced Member
 
absolootbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SW OH
Posts: 549
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
But isn't using such a mode a form of image (pixel re-mapping) processing, which as you just said, is best to not use?

Theoretically, yes. But it's the only way to use an anamorphic lens in your setup. Where as corrections like keystone, pin cushioning, etc. can be avoided by correctly leveling the projector (keystone), and using a curved screen or zooming to fill (pin cusioning).

absolootbs is offline  
post #4959 of 5232 Old 01-11-2016, 06:34 PM
Newbie
 
tdugan24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My new Panasonic AE8000 shuts down randomly

My new Pany shuts down randomly anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. It doesn't always shut down. I returned it for a new Pany AE8000u projector and it still shuts down randomly. There is no indication as to why the projector is shutting down. It just goes into power down mode.

My two previous projectors were plugged into the same outlet that my new Pany is plugged into and they never randomly shut down so I don't believe it to be an outlet problem.

I have Verizon Fios for Cable TV and the HDMI passes thru an Onkyo receiver that was purchased in 2009. My previous Pany was an AE4000u purchased in 2009. I'm wondering if it could be an HDMI protocol issue.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem?

Thanks!

Terry
tdugan24 is offline  
post #4960 of 5232 Old 01-11-2016, 11:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
You might try turning off HDMI-CEC in the Option menu. Panasonic calls it "Viera Link". Also the 12 volt triggers , 1 and 2, should be turned off here too. I'm suspecting one of these two things is detecting an errant signal which it mistakes as an instruction to turn off. Let us know if that fixes it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
post #4961 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 07:21 AM
Advanced Member
 
billybobg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Francis Utah
Posts: 823
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdugan24 View Post
My new Pany shuts down randomly anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. It doesn't always shut down. I returned it for a new Pany AE8000u projector and it still shuts down randomly. There is no indication as to why the projector is shutting down. It just goes into power down mode.

My two previous projectors were plugged into the same outlet that my new Pany is plugged into and they never randomly shut down so I don't believe it to be an outlet problem.

I have Verizon Fios for Cable TV and the HDMI passes thru an Onkyo receiver that was purchased in 2009. My previous Pany was an AE4000u purchased in 2009. I'm wondering if it could be an HDMI protocol issue.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem?

Thanks!

Terry
Is your projector near a heat source such as a vent? If the heat comes on and blows any heated air towards the projector it will prevent proper cooling and it will shut down. I had to move mine due to this problem.
billybobg is offline  
post #4962 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 04:28 PM
AVS Special Member
 
HeyNow^'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Martinsburg, Wv USA
Posts: 2,755
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
I made a video tutorial on how to use the Panasonic's internal waveform monitor to calibrate the image:
Panasonic Wavform Monitor Tutorial
I finally recorded the HBO test pattern. It was in SD so it didn't fill my 1:85 120" screen. I am running my panny 8k in Eco mode. When I ran waveform, the only changes it made was Brightness +16 and Contrast -8. This was during the day and I had some ambient light. These changes seemed very odd to me.
HeyNow^ is offline  
post #4963 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 05:56 PM
Senior Member
 
Marcus Gan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Hi,


Need some help. Trying to use the zoom function for scope screen.


However when I zoom instead of just expanding the image also move upward. Every time I zoom the image will be out of the screen and I have to use the len shift to bring it down.
When I return back to 16:9 it will become below the screen and I have to shift up again.


How should I use the zoom function and the image remain within the scope screen.


Thanks
Marcus
Marcus Gan is offline  
post #4964 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 08:57 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post
I finally recorded the HBO test pattern. It was in SD so it didn't fill my 1:85 120" screen.
I don't think the auto calibration system works properly when the incoming signal does not fill the entire 16x9 (1.78AR) panel; you need to use the manual mode. I gave a video link to how Panasonic engineers describe how to use the manual mode in post #6 at the other thread:
Panasonic Wavform Monitor Tutorial


Quote:
It was in SD so it didn't fill my 1:85 120" screen.
That's part of the problem. The other is that the resolution was probably 480i or 480p. The projector memorizes a completely different set of settings for each resolution so all the adjustments made will have no effect when you switch to an HD (1080) source, i.e. you need to calibrate per incoming resolution.

What I have done on my setup is set a memory location for 480i sources, set manually like in the Panasonic factory video I linked to in that other thread, and a different calibration for HD 1080i sources in a different memory location.

Quote:
I am running my panny 8k in Eco mode. When I ran waveform, the only changes it made was Brightness +16 and Contrast -8. This was during the day and I had some ambient light. These changes seemed very odd to me.
Don't misconstrue what this calibration does. It can't see the actual image it is projecting so it has no idea if, for example, your screen is too dark because your throw distance is too great and the image is too huge, washed out from sunlight so it needs added punch, how reflective your screen is the gain), slightly greenish because your screen isn't 100% pure neutral white, etc.. All it is doing is calibrating itself to the incoming electrical signal source which varies between your disc player, your game console, your cable box, your video camera, your sat box, etc.. Even TV station to TV station may vary some.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 01-12-2016 at 09:01 PM.
m. zillch is offline  
post #4965 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 09:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Gan View Post
However when I zoom instead of just expanding the image also move upward. Every time I zoom the image will be out of the screen and I have to use the len shift to bring it down.
If you are trying to set up CIH, constant image height, you center your 16x9 (1.78) source image perfectly using the lens shift knob, but then you lock it in and don't touch it. All further adjustments to the wide screen 2.35 zoomed in image is done by varying the zoom, focus, and the position using the menu system's "V-AREA POSITION" found under "LENS CONTROL".


This system only works well for people who project from roughly the middle, not off to the side.
JSKMDWK likes this.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
post #4966 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 09:36 PM
Senior Member
 
Marcus Gan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Hi,


Thanks that is what I did. However I max the V-Area adjustment and still can't get the image within the screen.


I guess I'm use too much of the len shift.


Will try to center the PJ to screen without much of len shift and try again.


Cheers
Marcus
Marcus Gan is offline  
post #4967 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 10:07 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
The system works best by projecting the image from the top (center) edge of the screen height: If the top of your projection screen is eight feet up from the floor (2.44 m) then the projector should be about 8 ft, or less, up from the floor. People who mount their projectors up even higher and have to aim the image downward don't get as good results.

If you ceiling mount your projector consider adding an extra extension tube section to increase its drop from the ceiling. They are inexpensive.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 01-12-2016 at 10:12 PM.
m. zillch is offline  
post #4968 of 5232 Old 01-12-2016, 10:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Marcus Gan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Yes, mine is ceiling mount and I have extension tube so not a problem to bring the PJ down.


So I only need to bring it down to the top of the screen right.


Thanks again for your help.


Marcus
Marcus Gan is offline  
post #4969 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 06:30 AM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Gan View Post
So I only need to bring it down to the top of the screen right.
Correct.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
post #4970 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 09:34 AM
Advanced Member
 
purbeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 876
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 27
I made a post back in October about flicker on my projector, and I have tried out a few things since. A few things are apparent.

1. There is a distinct flicker when on a lighter background. It is not really noticeable when the camera is moving and/or it is on a dark background. On stationary light colored background, it's very obvious (to me) that there is a flicker. When watching football this past weekend I had a lot of people over, and people couldn't notice it until I pointed it out. So it's one of "those" things.

2. It is not just 1 of my video sources - it is happening on all sources.

3. My bulb has about 2400 hours on it maybe a little more.

So my question is, are chances that this is just a bulb issue and I need to buy a replacement lamp? I know normal lightbulbs will flicker like this before they die completely, however this has been happening since October and I've used it extensively since then, and still the bulb hasn't completely died.

This is my first projector and I've never replaced a bulb, so I'm not sure what to expect when this stuff starts to happen. But I'm hoping that it is just a bulb issue and that will fix it, but does this flicker issue seem like it is most likely a bulb issue given the info above?
purbeast is offline  
post #4971 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 10:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
I'm not sure if I responded back when you first posted, can't remember, but a possible solution is quick, easy and free: try removing and then immediately replacing the existing bulb, or as Panasonic calls it "lamp". This does two things: it makes sure the connection is good and snug, plus by breaking and then reconnecting you scrape the electrical contacts clean via friction which removes any layer of oxidation.


Bulb flicker is often indicative of the following oscillating loop, which happens dozens of times per second:
1. Bulb heats up.
2. Heat travels to the electrical connection.
3. Heat makes metal contacts of the connection expand
4. Contact area of metal to metal in the contact area is reduced due to the deformation caused by the heat
5. Current flow is restricted (or in some cases entirely severed) by the small contact area.
6. Bulb light output is greatly reduced or even turns off
7. Bulb cools a bit from lack of current flow
8. Metal contacts contract as they cool
9. Full contact area is restored and current flows at full capacity again
10. GO TO STEP #1 and repeat forever


---
Some people using ECO mode have reported that they can solve their flicker problem by temporarily running in full brightness mode for say 100 hrs of use. I have no idea if this is true or simply their problem happened to go away.


Good luck.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
post #4972 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 05:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Marcus Gan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Correct.

Hi M. Zillch,


Thanks and I will try out this weekend.


Cheers
Marcus
Marcus Gan is offline  
post #4973 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 08:30 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 7
Any speculation/rumours on a replacement for this model projector in the coming year? I'm in the market for a new projector and thinking of picking this up.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Bagua is offline  
post #4974 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 08:46 PM
AVS Special Member
 
73shark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: KC, MO area
Posts: 2,714
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 297 Post(s)
Liked: 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bagua View Post
Any speculation/rumours on a replacement for this model projector in the coming year? I'm in the market for a new projector and thinking of picking this up.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
From what I've read, Panasonic is getting out of the PJ business.
Bagua likes this.

In space, no one can hear you scream . . .
73shark is online now  
post #4975 of 5232 Old 01-13-2016, 09:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,829
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
I think they are getting out of the consumer/home theater projector market. The business, large venue, and data projectors are still being released, such as this one last summer: http://shop.panasonic.com/about-us-l...comm-2015.html
Bagua likes this.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
post #4976 of 5232 Old 01-14-2016, 05:31 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 7
Thank you for taking the time to educate a noob, much appreciated.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Bagua is offline  
post #4977 of 5232 Old 01-14-2016, 09:34 AM
Newbie
 
tdugan24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdugan24 View Post
My new Pany shuts down randomly anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. It doesn't always shut down. I returned it for a new Pany AE8000u projector and it still shuts down randomly. There is no indication as to why the projector is shutting down. It just goes into power down mode.

My two previous projectors were plugged into the same outlet that my new Pany is plugged into and they never randomly shut down so I don't believe it to be an outlet problem.

I have Verizon Fios for Cable TV and the HDMI passes thru an Onkyo receiver that was purchased in 2009. My previous Pany was an AE4000u purchased in 2009. I'm wondering if it could be an HDMI protocol issue.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem?

Thanks!

Terry
Thanks for the tip. I turned off the HDMI-CEC (aka Viera Link) in my options menu and it did the trick. Three days in since I turned it off and my projector appears to have stopped randomly shutting down. Absolutely crazy that Panasonic would set this option to YES by default. None of the product documentation or FAQs in the manual even hinted that this could be a problem if operating in a non-Panasonic ecosystem. Shame on Panasonic! Bad Panasonic!
tdugan24 is offline  
post #4978 of 5232 Old 01-14-2016, 09:34 AM
Newbie
 
tdugan24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdugan24 View Post
My new Pany shuts down randomly anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. It doesn't always shut down. I returned it for a new Pany AE8000u projector and it still shuts down randomly. There is no indication as to why the projector is shutting down. It just goes into power down mode.

My two previous projectors were plugged into the same outlet that my new Pany is plugged into and they never randomly shut down so I don't believe it to be an outlet problem.

I have Verizon Fios for Cable TV and the HDMI passes thru an Onkyo receiver that was purchased in 2009. My previous Pany was an AE4000u purchased in 2009. I'm wondering if it could be an HDMI protocol issue.

Has anyone experienced a similar problem?

Thanks!

Terry
Thanks for the tip. I turned off the HDMI-CEC (aka Viera Link) in my options menu and it did the trick. Three days in since I turned it off and my projector appears to have stopped randomly shutting down. Absolutely crazy that Panasonic would set this option to YES by default. None of the product documentation or FAQs in the manual even hinted that this could be a problem if operating in a non-Panasonic ecosystem. Shame on Panasonic! Bad Panasonic!
tdugan24 is offline  
post #4979 of 5232 Old 01-14-2016, 09:35 AM
Newbie
 
tdugan24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
You might try turning off HDMI-CEC in the Option menu. Panasonic calls it "Viera Link". Also the 12 volt triggers , 1 and 2, should be turned off here too. I'm suspecting one of these two things is detecting an errant signal which it mistakes as an instruction to turn off. Let us know if that fixes it.
Thanks for the tip. I turned off the HDMI-CEC (aka Viera Link) in my options menu and it did the trick. Three days in since I turned it off and my projector appears to have stopped randomly shutting down. Absolutely crazy that Panasonic would set this option to YES by default. None of the product documentation or FAQs in the manual even hinted that this could be a problem if operating in a non-Panasonic ecosystem. Shame on Panasonic! Bad Panasonic!
tdugan24 is offline  
post #4980 of 5232 Old 01-18-2016, 10:58 AM
Member
 
razevents's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 117
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (Europe...

Question for fellow owners:

Wondering how and if the following is possible with the 8ku:

I'd like to purchase a 16:9 screen to fit my wall. Say 120" wide. I will then use masking at the top and bottom of the screen to transform it to 2.4 AR.

Ok so here's the question. When going from 1.78 to 2.35 I'd like to add slide a anamorphic lens in position and then recall a zoom memory for the image to zoom it in and stretch it full vertical stretch for a 2.35 lens. Here's where the problem comes in. When I zoom in, the image shifts quite a bit vertically and I have to bring it back to center with manual lens shift. This being the case, without power lens shift is there any other way to zoom in then somehow reposition the image vertically centered on the screen in a smaller 16:9 so the lens will stretch it horizontally? I short, zoom in, image shifts vertically, how can I get it back to center with new zoom position without using lens shift? It may not be possible I'm asking those that know this machine better than I do. Need to know definitely before I purchase a new screen. If it's not possible I have to go 2.40 native and side mask for a smaller 16:9. I want a bigger 16:9 and then cut off the top and bottom using a lens so i don't lose resolution or brightness by using zoom method. In essence having cake and eating it too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by razevents; 01-18-2016 at 11:01 AM.
razevents is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

Tags
Epson 5020ub Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector , Jvc Dla X35 3d Hd Front Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae7000u 1080p Full Hd Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae4000u 1600 Lumen Lcd Home Theater Projector , Sony Vpl Hw50es 3d Projector , Darbeevision Darblet Hdmi Video Processor , Panasonic Ptae8000u Hd Projector
Gear in this thread



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off