Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 168 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5011 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I am using the Panamorph UH-480, and the only downside is having a little pincushion, and having to switch from 16x9 to v-fit (in the aspect area of the projector). .

If I am understanding you correctly, when you watch 1.78 material, you don't move the anamorphic lens out of the light path via a manual swing or robotic slide assembly such as this:


but instead, you activate the Panasonic's V-fit feature. Right?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #5012 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 04:12 PM
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Cih

Has anyone used a camera anamorphic lens to achieve CIH. I have seen some of these lens with a fixed mount that can be placed in front of a projector.

Thanks,

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post #5013 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 06:55 PM
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Thanks deano86,
Any difference in size with the panasonic 3D glasses between large and Medium when wearing them with perscription glasses. which are more comfortable Large or Medium?

Thanks,
CDP
The medium glasses are designed so that they will fit comfortably over most all eyeglasses...I use mine with no problem this way... From what I have heard, there is no difference in the size of the actual lenses area between the sizes... just the width of the front frame to easier fit larger circumference heads! If you have children watching 3d, the Small sizes definitely work much better for them...

I was interested in finding some Large size 3rd gen glasses, just on the thought that the lens areas would be bigger, but from the info I got from a seller several months back, he stated that they are identical in this dimension...
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post #5014 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
If I am understanding you correctly, when you watch 1.78 material, you don't move the anamorphic lens out of the light path via a manual swing or robotic slide assembly such as this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWdZk0M_ltw


but instead, you activate the Panasonic's V-fit feature. Right?
I only watch 16x9 or wider videos...so yes with qualifications. When I watch a 16x9 video I switch it to 16x9, and when i watch a wider video I switch it to V-Fit. I leave the lens in place at all times even though it makes the people look a little bit fatter than they are...to me it is an acceptable way to go as i was able to fully utilize the screen width.

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post #5015 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I leave the lens in place at all times even though it makes the people look a little bit fatter than they are.
This boggles my mind since simply removing the anamorphic lens from the light path entirely would make all 16x9 (1.78:1) material look normal and correct. Why not do that or build/buy a robotic device to do it for you like shown in that video I linked to?


By using V-fit you also have lost the top and bottom of the incoming image, i.e. normal TV broadcast and movies which are 16x9 have their top and bottom chopped off.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #5016 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
This boggles my mind since simply removing the anamorphic lens from the light path entirely would make all 16x9 (1.78:1) material look normal and correct. Why not do that or build/buy a robotic device to do it for you like shown in that video I linked to?


By using V-fit you also have lost the top and bottom of the incoming image, i.e. normal TV broadcast and movies which are 16x9 have their top and bottom chopped off.
I think your are misunderstanding what I am doing. When watching a 16x9 image I am using the setting 16x9...if it is chopping off any image at all it is minimal (akin to overscan that all TVs do). V-fit is only used for wider aspects than 16x9... When I use V-fit for wide aspect movies it is not cutting off any of the picture(it is actually stretching the image top to bottom), but would def cut off the top and bottom of a 16x9 image if i didn't switch the aspect to 16x9 on the Panny.

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post #5017 of 5026 Old 01-25-2016, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
When watching a 16x9 image I am using the setting 16x9
If you don't electronically scale the image through an outboard scaler, nor use the Panasonic's own rudimentary circuitry, and view native 16x9 content through the anamorphic lens which you personally don't ever move out of the projection path, then when watching 16x9 content such as, let's say, the TV broadcast Late Night with Seth Meyers, the image looks roughly like this first image instead of the second image. [Ignore the boundaries and my camera's cropped image, just look at Mr. Meyers himself]
You described this earlier as people looking a little bit fatter:
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
When I watch a 16x9 video I switch it to 16x9... I leave the lens in place at all times even though it makes the people look a little bit fatter than they are...to me it is an acceptable way to go as i was able to fully utilize the screen width.
Did I get this right, this time?
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #5018 of 5026 Old 01-26-2016, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
If you don't electronically scale the image through an outboard scaler, nor use the Panasonic's own rudimentary circuitry, and view native 16x9 content through the anamorphic lens which you personally don't ever move out of the projection path, then when watching 16x9 content such as, let's say, the TV broadcast Late Night with Seth Meyers, the image looks roughly like this first image instead of the second image. [Ignore the boundaries and my camera's cropped image, just look at Mr. Meyers himself]
You described this earlier as people looking a little bit fatter:

Did I get this right, this time?
Yup, except it appears in your picture that side info is missing, but there is no side info missing. I have verified this with my windows desktop.

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post #5019 of 5026 Old 01-26-2016, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
Yup, except it appears in your picture that side info is missing, but there is no side info missing. I have verified this with my windows desktop.

As I mentioned:
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
[Ignore the boundaries and my camera's cropped image, just look at Mr. Meyers himself]
---

Would I be correct in guessing that this particular approach you personally use for watching 16x9 material (with the anamorphic lens still in place) is unique to your use and is not generally suggested by any third party source as a viable option, that you can link me to?
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

Last edited by m. zillch; 01-26-2016 at 04:30 PM.
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post #5020 of 5026 Old 01-26-2016, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
As I mentioned:

---

Would I be correct in guessing that this particular approach you personally use for watching 16x9 material (with the anamorphic lens still in place) is unique to your use and is not generally suggested by any third party source as a viable option, that you can link me to?
I have seen others on AVS also that leave the lens in place at all times too. I don't have links, but I found them when I was looking into getting the lens...so I really don't know if this is a normal practice or not, but it works for me, and apparently others too.

Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, Xilica XP-4080 crossover, (2pr) JBL 8340As,  (2pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox360, (2) Intel NUCs, Monoprice12 gauge speaker wire and XLR cables, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster HTPS7000, 2 DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 195" diagonal scope screen, Panamorph UH-480, Darbee Darcet, Yamaha P7000s, Yamaha MX-A5000, MiniDSP DDRC-88A, and an Oppo 103.
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post #5021 of 5026 Old 01-28-2016, 06:53 PM
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Anyone change their settings, or have a specific settings for when watching sports? I was watching the playoffs this past Sunday, and was pretty unhappy with how football looks. When players are standing still, image looked good, but on movement everything gets blurred together and loses detail. I tried messing with the different settings; picture mode, frame creation etc., but picture still sucked.


I have AT&T Uverse, so is it just bad source? It's also set up in the man cave in the garage, so it's a wireless uverse box that's actually connected thru powerline network. I haven't calibrated or tweaked the picture settings before, as I've liked Cinema2 setting right out the box. I primarily watch Blu-ray movies and those look awesome.


If anyone has some picture settings they use for football and can post them I'll try them out. Thanks

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post #5022 of 5026 Old 01-28-2016, 07:13 PM
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A casual search found many complaints of Uverse using too much compression. This is easiest to see with giant, 1080p TVs like ours and people with smaller TVs might not even notice it. Sending the signal wirelessly to other rooms adds yet even more compression adding insult to injury!


The real test is to find some high quality TV show on a channel you can watch both over the air, OTA, and through Uverse. The Tonight Show might be a good example. Switch back and forth. If Uverse looks yucky yet live OTA on the same show/channel looks fine, then there's your proof right there.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #5023 of 5026 Old 01-28-2016, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
A casual search found many complaints of Uverse using too much compression. This is easiest to see with giant, 1080p TVs like ours and people with smaller TVs might not even notice it. Sending the signal wirelessly to other rooms adds yet even more compression adding insult to injury!


The real test is to find some high quality TV show on a channel you can watch both over the air, OTA, and through Uverse. The Tonight Show might be a good example. Switch back and forth. If Uverse looks yucky yet live OTA on the same show/channel looks fine, then there's your proof right there.
Thanks Zillch, I was figuring it was the Uverse signal. That's a good idea to compare OTA signal, I'll have to pick up an HD antenna? I think Costco sells one I'll check it out

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post #5024 of 5026 Old 01-28-2016, 09:30 PM
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Well keep in mind the Panasonic PTAE8000 is just a monitor, not a full fledged TV set with an included OTA tuner, so you'll need an HD tuner to go with that antenna!


I bought an external HD tuner recently and was surprised to discover how inexpensive they are these days [They used to be hundreds of dollars just a few years ago]. I bought this one, should you care:

http://www.amazon.com/3500STBII-Mult.../dp/B00GOILYB6

I bought it for live TV as a backup to cable. It also has a rudimentary DVR functionality if you add a hard drive or large thumb drive to store the recordings.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..
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post #5025 of 5026 Old 01-31-2016, 01:19 PM
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FIOS users: I finally took fios into my HT and I lose video signal randomly. Sound will not cut off to the AVR, but the PJ loses video, displaying the pj's standard inputs info bar on top right. This type of video loss never happens otherwise. Is there something finicky about FIOS box and how it handles hdmi.

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current gear: lcr JTR 212HT ~ quad JTR 8LP ~ dual JTR Orbit Shifters LFU ~ Elemental Designs eD6c ~ Marantz SR7008 ~ PT-AE8000U ~ Elite 176" 2.35 ATS
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post #5026 of 5026 Old Today, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I have seen others on AVS also that leave the lens in place at all times too. I don't have links, but I found them when I was looking into getting the lens...so I really don't know if this is a normal practice or not, but it works for me, and apparently others too.

I also leave my lens in place at all times, but I switch between the projector's 4:3 and V-FIT aspect modes, so that my projected aspect ratio always matches my source aspect ratio (note that I too don't watch any content narrower than 16:9; if you wanted to watch 4:3 source material in it's correct aspect ratio with the lens in place, you'd be out of luck unless you have an external video processor that allows for custom a/r). I choose the 4:3 aspect mode for 16:9 content vs. your choice of the native 16:9 mode because personally, I prefer to put up with pillarboxing when watching 16:9 content, rather than having an unnatural stretched picture. Yes, that means I'm always scaling no matter what I watch (and scaling is bad), and yes I'm losing some pixels (and therefore brightness) when watching 16:9 source material. But I'd rather lose the brightness on 16:9 content, which tends to be tv/sports and therefore naturally brighter and less critical viewing material anyway, than losing brightness on 2.35:1 content like one does when using the lens memory/zoom method. Sure, a sled gives you the best of both worlds, but motorized sleds are expensive to buy and complicated to build, and I simply don't care for the idea of anything un-motorized/non-automated. I'm not saying my way is the right way, but for the time being, it's the right way for me.

As an aside, I also seem to think the picture looks a bit sharper and overall better through the a-lens. Granted this could very well be placebo, as I've done no blind testing that alternates between lens and no lens. But hey, If you will it, Dude, it is no dream”.


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