Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 169 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:28 PM
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CIH with PT-AE8000U

"This solution would however get rid of the fat Seth Meyer problem I discussed earlier:"
Thanks m.zillch, I wanted to ask you if I used a camera anamorphic lens will it work to give me the 2:35:1 with the PT-AE8000U. Some of these lens are very affordable.

Thanks

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Old 03-01-2016, 05:45 PM
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The lenses themselves may be very affordable however if the robotic mechanism to precisely move them in and out of place when needed [for 2.35 material only, but not for what in my use is the much more common 1.78 material], aka "Automatic transport sled", is not affordable then they make no sense. I know the MSRP for one of the most common sleds is $2500 by itself, that's without the lens, not to mention the complex and potentially very pricey ceiling mounting of the sled. Ouch.

What anamorphic lenses fix is hardly a problem in my book, not to say it is undetectable, and yes, I'm picky about my video. How they compromise the image if left in place for common 1.78 material, however, would drive me out of my mind, in seconds.

There is a lot of misinformation circling around about what anamorphic lenses do and don't do. The people who push these things have it easy by simply doing two things:
A) discuss the pros and gloss over the cons
B) link to older material as third party endorsements that praise the great improvements which were much more relevant not too many years ago but have become less so as technologies (Blu-ray) have advanced. See back when we were using anamorphically enhanced source material, i.e. "anamorphically enhanced DVDs", and LCD/DLP pj panels that weren't all 16x9 shape and weren't all 1080x1920 , well yes, back then they made a lot more sense.


Here's the only article. parts 1 and 2, that I can find that talks about it in some detail but unfortunately I can only find these archived versions so the articles' images may not work:
https://web.archive.org/web/20130324...till-relevant/

https://web.archive.org/web/20130417...righter-image/

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 03-01-2016 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:32 PM
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I am really at a loss as to figure why anyone would want to go through the hassle of using an anamorphic lens with this particular projector model...with its capability to save separate zoom, focus and vertical image shift adjustments and to have the projector recall them automatically based on whether the incoming signal is 16:9 or 2.35/2.40:1 image, for me it is a no-brainer! I just use my 142 inch scope screen and call it good! I really thought I would be bothered by the black bars on the sides for 16:9 content, but I really don't notice them at all... but when a scope movie starts up and I see the image zoom to fill the whole super wide screen and the black bars disappear off the top and bottom, I definitely notice how cool that is!!
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
I am really at a loss as to figure why anyone would want to go through the hassle of using an anamorphic lens with this particular projector model...with its capability to save separate zoom, focus and vertical image shift adjustments and to have the projector recall them automatically based on whether the incoming signal is 16:9 or 2.35/2.40:1 image, for me it is a no-brainer! I just use my 142 inch scope screen and call it good! I really thought I would be bothered by the black bars on the sides for 16:9 content, but I really don't notice them at all... but when a scope movie starts up and I see the image zoom to fill the whole super wide screen and the black bars disappear off the top and bottom, I definitely notice how cool that is!!
I guess because everyone's situation is different. In my case, I have a soffit that runs around the top of my entire room so I don't have the luxury of projecting above and below the screen because it's so noticeable (not being a flat surface). I have both the 7000 and 8000 and have used a lens the entire time.

Another reason to use a lens is because it allows the whole panel (all the pixels) to be projected instead of just the amount taken up by a 2.35:1 or 2.40:1 image. Combine that with Panasonic's pixel smooth technology and you end up with one dynamite looking image!

Add to that the lens memory functions to auto zoom and focus each aspect ratio and all you do is slide the lens over. Couldn't be much easier. Well, I did add a one button sequence to automate 16x9 and 2.35:1 ARs in the harmony remote because yes, I'm that lazy!!

TK

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Old 03-03-2016, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
What anamorphic lenses fix is hardly a problem in my book, not to say it is undetectable, and yes, I'm picky about my video. How they compromise the image if left in place for common 1.78 material, however, would drive me out of my mind, in seconds.
Totally agree with you m.zillch, I never do this!

It's just not worth the loss of light...at least for a cheaper lens like mine. I suppose if you've got 3K worth of optics in front of your projector it may be a different story.

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Old 03-03-2016, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
^Even if the exact amount of lateral squeezing can be precisely replicated by this method (which I've also pondered about using), you are still compromising the image by doing this compared to moving the anamorphic lens out of the light path entirely for 1.78 (16x9) content, as you really should and which is ideally recommended by all anamorphic experts including the makers of the lenses themselves, in three ways:


- you are scaling the image and that sometimes has visible artifacts (it is best to never scale and always present a 1:1 pixel mapping whenever possible)
- you have decreased brightness because this extra unnecessary glass you aren't supposed to be going through does not have 100% throughput
- you have added optical anomalies because this extra unnecessary glass you aren't supposed to be going through is, like all optics, not 100% distortion free
- you have decreased your resolution because you are only using a smaller subset of the full 3 LCD panels' 1080x1920 pixels [~25% loss]
- you have decreased your brightness because you are only using a smaller subset of the full 3 LCD panels' 1080x1920 pixels [~25% loss]


This solution would however get rid of the fat Seth Meyer problem I discussed earlier:
Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version)

This is indeed the case. I considered masking and lens sled (I will probably add a manual sled at some point) but have decided to leave the lens in place perm mount. Why? For now it's too much cost for an electric screen with masking and motorized sled. My wife or kids won't be able to use or manage manual masking or sleds when I'm not home and that just means frustrated phone calls to me. For our 16:9 content, Which we frequently watch weekday evenings on TV, running a Lumagen Radiance in Non Linear Stretch mode scales a 16:9 so when viewed in scope it doesn't look bad. It keeps the center of the screen content true to shape while stretching the outer edges and corners. It's pleasing to the eye.




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Old 03-03-2016, 05:50 PM
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I hate to break up this lens party, however, I'd like to switch gears. Does anyone know if there are any real world brightness numbers out there for our 8000s, both out of the box and calibrated? I've been told they are far less than half of what's advertised as 2400 and even less when calibrated. Like 500-600 lumen type super low. I've also been told the new JVCs are true to 1500-1700 lumens calibrated and much much brighter in the real life and world. I'm wondering if the extra 2000$ would have been worth it when I bought in November as my reason for going with the Panny was to wait until true 4K came to the masses and more affordable. Anyway if anyone has real world brightness numbers please share.


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Old 03-03-2016, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by M88@FL450 View Post
Non Linear Stretch mode scales a 16:9 so when viewed in scope it doesn't look bad. It keeps the center of the screen content true to shape while stretching the outer edges and corners. It's pleasing to the eye.
That mode which stretches the edges but not the center makes me feel like I'm tripping on a hallucinogenic when the camera pans laterally.

or as one source put it. . .
"[Non-linear stretch mode]: Sure it seems great at first because her face doesn't look bad at all. But just wait, because as soon as the camera pans from right to left you might just lose your lunch." -Engadget http://www.engadget.com/2009/02/19/h...bars-on-hdtvs/

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:32 AM
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Are you talking about the vertical stretch mode for use with anamorphic lenses or something different?

Projector & Screen: Panasonic AE8000u 3D w/Anamorphic Lens & 130" 2.35:1 CIH
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:49 AM
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^The "non linear stretch mode", not found on the Panasonic itself, is an option found on some outboard scalers to stretch the image horizontally but with a varying amount of stretch depending on how far you are from the center image area: the center gets very little stretch but there is a strong amount of stretch on the side edges. Read more about it at engadget: http://www.engadget.com/2009/02/19/h...bars-on-hdtvs/


I can't find a good example, however if it were to be applied to this image:



The central large circle would look pretty much the same [ever so slightly cropped in some brands], but the four small circles would stretch laterally into ovals as the expanded new rectangular area would be wider.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 03-04-2016 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:36 AM
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CIH with PT-AE8000U

The non linear stretch mode is part of Cyberlink PowerDVD 14 and 15 aspect ratio options. It is called TrueTheater Stretch (Smart Stretch). The center appears normal but when the camera pans the left and right sides of the image are some what distorted compared to the center. I usually used it with 4x3 film content to fill the 16x9 screen. These options also include 2:35:1 as well, but I would rather use an affordable A-Lens for 2:35:1.

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Old 03-04-2016, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
^The "non linear stretch mode", not found on the Panasonic itself, is an option found on some outboard scalers to stretch the image horizontally but with a varying amount of stretch depending on how far you are from the center image area: the center gets very little stretch but there is a strong amount of stretch on the side edges. Read more about it at engadget: http://www.engadget.com/2009/02/19/h...bars-on-hdtvs/


I can't find a good example, however if it were to be applied to this image:



The central large circle would look pretty much the same [ever so slightly cropped in some brands], but the four small circles would stretch laterally into ovals as the expanded new rectangular area would be wider.
Eww.. I've never seen that before.

I actually use a DVDO VP to vertically stretch the image for anamorphic but really just because it's in the signal chain for other reasons and also enables with one button IR command. The Panasonic's vertical stretch is buried in the menus.

Projector & Screen: Panasonic AE8000u 3D w/Anamorphic Lens & 130" 2.35:1 CIH
Audio: Marantz SR7010 / XPA-3 / UPA-7
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2. Subs: SVS PC-2000 & eD A3-300 12" 350w Sensory: Aura Pro Bass Shakers
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
I am really at a loss as to figure why anyone would want to go through the hassle of using an anamorphic lens with this particular projector model...with its capability to save separate zoom, focus and vertical image shift adjustments and to have the projector recall them automatically based on whether the incoming signal is 16:9 or 2.35/2.40:1 image, for me it is a no-brainer! I just use my 142 inch scope screen and call it good! I really thought I would be bothered by the black bars on the sides for 16:9 content, but I really don't notice them at all... but when a scope movie starts up and I see the image zoom to fill the whole super wide screen and the black bars disappear off the top and bottom, I definitely notice how cool that is!!
I went with an Anamorphic lens (UH-480) to be able to utilize the whole screen as my throw is not quite enough to get the last 10" diagonal in 2.40 movies. An added benefit is i am zooming less and have a brighter picture (and 10" more diagonal) than I had without the Anamorphic lens.

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Old 03-06-2016, 08:25 AM
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Anyone having trouble shutting their units off? Sometimes I get a blinking light when shutting off. Changed batteries. Doesn't happen every time.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:54 PM
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Eww.. I've never seen that before.
Your DVDO EDGE actually has this non-linear stretch mode too. It calls it "Panorama" and it can be found as one of the aspect ratio options, at least when "Auto Aspect ratio" is turned off.

Since there is very little documentation on the web explaining how non-linear stretch mode distorts the picture, I just now decided to make a short video about it myself, since a video explains it more effectively than words:

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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Old 03-06-2016, 03:05 PM
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Hey, look at that, learn something new every day! I've had the Edge for 8 years and don't ever remember trying that mode.

Projector & Screen: Panasonic AE8000u 3D w/Anamorphic Lens & 130" 2.35:1 CIH
Audio: Marantz SR7010 / XPA-3 / UPA-7
7. Ascend Acoustics Sierra-2 (L R C), Emotiva UAC-8.2 (side), ERD-1s (rear)
2. Subs: SVS PC-2000 & eD A3-300 12" 350w Sensory: Aura Pro Bass Shakers
4 Ascend Acoustics HTM-200SE for Atmos/DTS:X
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:37 AM
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PT-AE8000U and CIH

Anyone who owns the Panamorph UH-480, can you give the dimensions of this lens? When I pull it up on line it appears to have a smaller lens where the lens meets up with the projector and a larger lens where the image is projected to the screen.

Thanks

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Old 03-09-2016, 04:16 PM
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Thinking about a new bulb. Anyone with thoughts and links?
TIA,
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:21 PM
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^Panasonic directly, Projector People, Provantage (?), B&H Photo Video, and AGI are the only authorized sources. All other sources are sketchy and should be avoided.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:09 PM
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Will do. Even Amazon looks sketch!
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:24 PM
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Correct. Amazon is to be avoided unless they mention they are acting as agents for one of the authorized dealers I outlined above.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:26 AM
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Help here...

I am preparing to put a home theater in my basement. I have a 13.5x30' space. I am deciding between a 135" 16x9 or 138" 2.35x1 screen.

I am also considering this projector and would like to take advantage of the anamorphic capabilities, so would like to get the 2.35 screen.

But when I went on projector central to run the projector calculation, I think the screen might be too big at the 2.25 ratio. It seems OK at the 16x9. The calculator is recommending a higher gain (1.2 or higher) or a smaller screen. The only light I will have in the room are two glass block windows which will be covered up.

The screens I am looking at are 1.0 and 1.1 gain. I am looking at fixed frames from $500-1000

Should I be concerned? I can set the projector at the recommended 19' throw distance, but will the picture look good? I am going with an acoustic fabric as well.

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Old 03-17-2016, 10:48 AM
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It's impossible to predict what brightness level you would deem acceptable. We are all different.


I would highly recommend buying the projector BEFORE committing to a particular screen. You can then play around with it and project on to temporary surfaces such as a bed sheet or white vinyl table cloth bought at a party/kitchen store, thumb tacked to the wall, or just the wall itself. This will help you gauge sizes, distances, aspect ratios, zoom settings, and brightness levels. [hint: an 8.5x11 piece of printer paper has a gain of about 1.0]

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:41 PM
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What size nd filter are some of you using? I'm thinking 72mm but want to make sure that will be okay.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:34 PM
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Using the ECO mode isn't dark enough for you? Can you mount the pj any farther back?


I'm not entirely sure the small ridges just inside the lens are actual threads. They may just be ridges.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Using the ECO mode isn't dark enough for you? Can you mount the pj any farther back?


I'm not entirely sure the small ridges just inside the lens are actual threads. They may just be ridges.
I wouldn't thread it. Seems like others fit tape around the lens and fit it on. I have a 2.4 gain screen which is great for video games and tv, but I'm curious what it would be like with a nd2 filter for lights off/movies.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:24 PM
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Oh I see. The actual light disk or exit pupil one would need to cover is much smaller than 72mm if one can easily move the filter up/down/l/r to cover it properly. [72 mm filters tend to be pricier than smaller ones]


If this is just an experiment you might first try holding a pair of light sunglasses in the proper position to see the results, just for yucks, or I guess wear the sunglasses.
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In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 03-27-2016, 05:14 PM
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I hate to break up this lens party, however, I'd like to switch gears. Does anyone know if there are any real world brightness numbers out there for our 8000s, both out of the box and calibrated? I've been told they are far less than half of what's advertised as 2400 and even less when calibrated. Like 500-600 lumen type super low. I've also been told the new JVCs are true to 1500-1700 lumens calibrated and much much brighter in the real life and world. I'm wondering if the extra 2000$ would have been worth it when I bought in November as my reason for going with the Panny was to wait until true 4K came to the masses and more affordable. Anyway if anyone has real world brightness numbers please share.


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Nowhere near 2400 lumens: http://www.projectorreviews.com/panasonic/panasonic-pt-ae8000-projector-performance/

I'd love to get a PT-AE8000U for its powered focus and lens memory but it's simply too dim for a zoomed 133" scope screen. I'm going with an Epson 3500 instead.

Martin

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Old 03-27-2016, 08:31 PM
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Nowhere near 2400 lumens: http://www.projectorreviews.com/pana...r-performance/

I'd love to get a PT-AE8000U for its powered focus and lens memory but it's simply too dim for a zoomed 133" scope screen. I'm going with an Epson 3500 instead.

Martin
Totally disagree... using mine with a zoomed 142 inch scope screen.... looks fantastic.. plenty of light.. granted, I have a my own totally light controlled room...

BTW, how are you going to use a zoomed 133" scope screen with an Epson that doesn't support powered zoom or focus? Only watching scope movies on it?
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:04 AM
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Totally disagree... using mine with a zoomed 142 inch scope screen.... looks fantastic.. plenty of light.. granted, I have a my own totally light controlled room...

BTW, how are you going to use a zoomed 133" scope screen with an Epson that doesn't support powered zoom or focus? Only watching scope movies on it?
What mode are you using on your 142" screen? I'll be using a 0.9 gain ALR screen in a dark but not light controlled room. By my calculations the Epson will do 35fL on my screen in Cinema mode whereas the Panny will only do 10fL in D-Cinema or Rec. 709. Maybe I'll try the Panny from a seller with a good return policy.

I'll not only watch scope movies but responses in this thread helped me determine powered focus and lens memory, while nice, are not required for CIH. Manual switchover is not ideal but it will work.

Martin

Home Theater System: Panasonic PT-AE8000U; 138" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket Silver ALR, Pioneer Elite SC-75; Klipsch Reference RF-82 II, RC-62 II & RS-52 II; 2 Reaction Audio Echo 15 subs; Comcast DVR / PS3 / WiiU / Xbox One
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