Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 172 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5131 of 5480 Old 05-17-2016, 01:54 PM
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I hardly ever use 3D but recently learned how to view stereo still images on my TV so now my interest has increased. Although the manual gives a cursory explanation of 3D mode 1, 2, and 3 adjustments I was hoping for a more detailed explanation, perhaps with a calibration image to adjust to. Anyone?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5132 of 5480 Old 05-20-2016, 01:41 AM
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Man, this is a long thread. What kind of maintenance should I be doing on this thing? I use it VERY infrequently, mainly when we have guests or an event. We've had ours for a little over 2 years now, and there's about 500 hours on it.
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post #5133 of 5480 Old 05-20-2016, 09:21 AM
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The manual discusses how often you should gently vacuum the air filter and each time you need to replace the bulb you should fundamentally replace it, but luckily if you buy a genuine Panasonic bulb, which is important for several other reasons, you'll get a new one in the box anyways.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5134 of 5480 Old 06-01-2016, 03:17 PM
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Hi All,

I'm hoping you may be able to help diagnose a possible fault with my Panasonic pt8000 projector.

The projector appears to have 2 issues:

1) When watching content the screen intermittently blanks out; screen goes dark for approx 5 seconds before redisplaying the content. It doesn't happen too often, perhaps 2/3 times while watching a film and it's not seemingly related to a particular scene / time.

2) 2nd issue is I can't seem to get the projector to display any content on hdmi ports 1 or 2 - only hdmi 3 seems to work, for the other 2 I just get the flashing blue screen as if it's looking for a signal.

I've tried swapping out hdmi cables and that doesn't appear to make any difference and my cable runs are relatively short at 5m.

Consequently I'm starting to think there may be fault with the HDMI board (?). Does anyone have any experience with this type of fault?

Thanks for everyone's help in advance!
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post #5135 of 5480 Old 06-01-2016, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Heinz57uk View Post
I've tried swapping out hdmi cables and that doesn't appear to make any difference and my cable runs are relatively short at 5m.

I wouldn't call 5m "relatively short". The company which sets the standards originally said HDMI was limited to 4.5m max, but if you have a robust signal and a thick gauge wire (low resistance) then yes, 5m can work. An amplified signal might help, if that's the issue, either by adding a booster amp inline or replacing the wire with one that has a tiny in-line amp, bus powered, such as the Monoprice Redmere series.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5136 of 5480 Old 06-03-2016, 02:21 PM
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My AE800U model took a pretty good bump (2ft drop) yesterday and now I cannot get it to focus. When I press the focus buttons on the unit or controller I hear a sound as if something is happening, but nothing changes. The zoom buttons work fine. I have tried moving the projector to various distances just to see if I can at least read what is on the screen, but I cannot read the menu text on the screen. Is there anything else that I can try before sending it off to Panasonic (and paying their diagnostics fee)?
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post #5137 of 5480 Old 06-04-2016, 06:40 AM
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But don't they generally still keep the aspect ratio? I could understand more if there was a border all the way around if it had a smaller scale, but the image itself was not 16:9. And I did not have this happen previously, so I'm not sure what the change is.

Of course when I used to connect my PSP, the image would be shifted to the right quite a bit.
Kevin. There is a video overscan option in the ps4 menu to fix this. Dive into the ps4 display or system strings video menus to find it. If you don't see it let me know and I'll fire mine up to give you precise direction.

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post #5138 of 5480 Old 06-04-2016, 10:21 AM
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Is there anything else that I can try before sending it off to Panasonic (and paying their diagnostics fee)?
I can't promise this is a safe maneuver, however you can manually focus the 8000 by rotating the front barrel of the lens; I've done it [and I didn't hear any gear teeth snapping off. haha]. From my perspective it was not meant to work this way however it happens to work this way. I can't promise you can't possibly cause permanent damage if for example you do it too forcefully and strip some gears, etc. Proceed at your own risk.


Considering repair costs are often over $500 though, you might consider using manual focus for the rest of the pj's life.


There are direct access focus buttons under the flip down side panel, by the way, have you tried them? Do you hear the focus motor at least attempting to make changes? You could consider disassembling the whole thing and keeping your fingers crossed all that happened was a molex (plastic connector tipped) ribbon cable to the focus motor was dislodged slightly from the fall and simply needs to be reseated, however it could be many other things too, much more serious and not so easy to fix yourself, plus every time you open up a pj you expose it to external, unfiltered air so it greatly increases the likelihood of getting dust blobs in the image, especially if you attempt to power up and activate the fans while it has the cover(s) off. [Only filtered air should be sucked in. Sucking in unfiltered air from the exposed surfaces because you opened the sealed box, even for a few seconds, can be risky, and dust blobs aren't easy to fix when they get deep inside on the polarizers and LCD panels which you don't have direct access too without super, major disassembly. Not for the faint of heart. I've never done it.]


Sorry about your baby's fall, BTW.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5139 of 5480 Old 06-04-2016, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Considering repair costs are often over $500 though, you might consider using manual focus for the rest of the pj's life.

Sorry about your baby's fall, BTW.
I did try the buttons on the side to no avail. I also tried manually twisting the lens, but it did not turn and I did not want to risk breaking anything. I wouldn't have minded taking it apart until you said the bit about the possibility of unfiltered air messing it up. The unit is less than a year old, so I may just have to send it in on the off chance that the warranty will cover it. Thanks for taking the time to respond, and thank you for the condolences
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post #5140 of 5480 Old 06-05-2016, 01:30 PM
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I did try the buttons on the side to no avail. I also tried manually twisting the lens, but it did not turn and I did not want to risk breaking anything. I wouldn't have minded taking it apart until you said the bit about the possibility of unfiltered air messing it up. The unit is less than a year old, so I may just have to send it in on the off chance that the warranty will cover it. Thanks for taking the time to respond, and thank you for the condolences
Well the focus barrel doesn't spin freely like a volume knob on a receiver, no, but with just a wee bit more effort it does. I guess if you research it you may discover what kind of a mechanism it is exactly. If it is a rubber idler wheel (I think they call it) on a motor that pushes against another rubber ring around the internal barrel, then there are no teeth or gears to strip.


Has anyone else here ever bravely attempted to focus manually by rotating the barrel by hand?


P.S. I would think if it is dangerous to do so the manual would have a warning about it since there are zillions of people who wouldn't otherwise know it may have consequences. Many cheap pjs don't even have powered focus, after all. Does the owner's manual expressly say not to?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 06-05-2016 at 01:34 PM.
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post #5141 of 5480 Old 06-05-2016, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Well the focus barrel doesn't spin freely like a volume knob on a receiver, no, but with just a wee bit more effort it does. I guess if you research it you may discover what kind of a mechanism it is exactly. If it is a rubber idler wheel (I think they call it) on a motor that pushes against another rubber ring around the internal barrel, then there are no teeth or gears to strip.


Has anyone else here ever bravely attempted to focus manually by rotating the barrel by hand?


P.S. I would think if it is dangerous to do so the manual would have a warning about it since there are zillions of people who wouldn't otherwise know it may have consequences. Many cheap pjs don't even have powered focus, after all. Does the owner's manual expressly say not to?
I gave it a pretty good turn today, but it did not budge. Any more force and I think the thing would have broken off. I found some discussions about earlier models than the AE8000 where people could force the focus ring to manually focus. It may be that if I put more force on it that it would work, but I am too chicken to try any more force. Would be curious to hear feedback from anyone else that has been able to force the focus ring. FWIW I did a search through the manual and found 101 occurrences of the phrase "do not," but so far as I could tell none of them specifically said not to do this.
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post #5142 of 5480 Old 06-07-2016, 10:40 AM
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I have a panasonic PT AE 8000 U projector running fine until today when i clicked on video input on the remote by mistake and after that it is keep on giving me searching for input signal when turned On the projector and keep n getting the blue screen with input options i.e. S video, computer, HDMI 1, 2 & 3 image blinking. I restarted the projector several times and still no luck. i unplugged the HDMI on projector and changed it to different HDMI inputs still no luck. how to resolve this issue, your help is greatly appreciated.
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post #5143 of 5480 Old 06-07-2016, 12:34 PM
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So it seems you can successfully see the on screen messeges. Navigate in the menu to the auto input search feature and switch to manual control.


Verify the incoming signal wire has a valid picture by connecting it to an alternate video monitor in the room. Now connect it to the 8000 and manually put it to that input. [Obviously be dead sure which input you have connected to.] If still no luck it sounds like it is broken, sorry.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5144 of 5480 Old 06-07-2016, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Heinz57uk View Post
Hi All,

I'm hoping you may be able to help diagnose a possible fault with my Panasonic pt8000 projector.

The projector appears to have 2 issues:

1) When watching content the screen intermittently blanks out; screen goes dark for approx 5 seconds before redisplaying the content. It doesn't happen too often, perhaps 2/3 times while watching a film and it's not seemingly related to a particular scene / time.

2) 2nd issue is I can't seem to get the projector to display any content on hdmi ports 1 or 2 - only hdmi 3 seems to work, for the other 2 I just get the flashing blue screen as if it's looking for a signal.

I've tried swapping out hdmi cables and that doesn't appear to make any difference and my cable runs are relatively short at 5m.

Consequently I'm starting to think there may be fault with the HDMI board (?). Does anyone have any experience with this type of fault?

Thanks for everyone's help in advance!
Regarding your 1st issue with the screen blanking I had the same problem with similar lenth cable.

Check your bluray player settings & turn off deep colour as it causes handshake problems.
It has worked for me with no picture loss for years now.
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post #5145 of 5480 Old 06-07-2016, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
So it seems you can successfully see the on screen messeges. Navigate in the menu to the auto input search feature and switch to manual control.


Verify the incoming signal wire has a valid picture by connecting it to an alternate video monitor in the room. Now connect it to the 8000 and manually put it to that input. [Obviously be dead sure which input you have connected to.] If still no luck it sounds like it is broken, sorry.
Thanks for your valuable response. I have tried connecting directly to a bluray player to the same input i.e. HDMI 2 and it works fine. But when connected again back to the same input to a receiver with the existing HDMI it looks for a signal. I guess with this i have concluded that panny projector is working fine but need to figure out whether the problem is with the HDMI or receiver.

I'm running the HDMI from attic space above my media room to the closet out side the media room where i have speaker connections and a receiver.

Any suggestions on how to know if the receiver is working fine and with that i can conclude the problem is with the HDMI
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post #5146 of 5480 Old 06-07-2016, 06:47 PM
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Any suggestions on how to know if the receiver is working fine and with that i can conclude the problem is with the HDMI
If you bring up the menu of the receiver, can the projector detect that and display it?

Chet
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post #5147 of 5480 Old 06-07-2016, 06:54 PM
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HDMI cords can be tricky. People sometimes think of them as "It either works or it doesn't" and that's not 100% true. It was never actually spec'd to be ok beyond 4.5 meters but people noticed it seems fine in certain situations even longer than that so they dismissed HDMI.org 's guidelines and went nuts. Some combos work, others don't.


Sure if you use wires that are very thick, i.e. low resistance, you can go very far. Another approach is to use in-line booster amps along the way or one of the newer varieties of HDMI wires with micro amps built into the plug itself which are bus powered from the electronics. Monoprice's Redmere series would one example.


I suspect you had a marginal signal all these years but lucky for you it happened to be just barely good enough to establish contact so you were never aware of it. Over time the metal contacts on the plugs/jacks gets less springy so the contact area decreases and in some instances there can be oxidation as well. The giveaway when this happens is people often report that if they break and remake the connection everything comes back to life...at least for a while.


You might want to consider one of these solutions I mentioned.


P.S. Anther giveaway that the signal is there, but too weak to be a reliable, bulletproof connection is that lower resolution signals like 480i/p work, but 1080P doesn't.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 06-07-2016 at 07:02 PM.
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post #5148 of 5480 Old 06-08-2016, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
HDMI cords can be tricky. People sometimes think of them as "It either works or it doesn't" and that's not 100% true. It was never actually spec'd to be ok beyond 4.5 meters but people noticed it seems fine in certain situations even longer than that so they dismissed HDMI.org 's guidelines and went nuts. Some combos work, others don't.


Sure if you use wires that are very thick, i.e. low resistance, you can go very far. Another approach is to use in-line booster amps along the way or one of the newer varieties of HDMI wires with micro amps built into the plug itself which are bus powered from the electronics. Monoprice's Redmere series would one example.


I suspect you had a marginal signal all these years but lucky for you it happened to be just barely good enough to establish contact so you were never aware of it. Over time the metal contacts on the plugs/jacks gets less springy so the contact area decreases and in some instances there can be oxidation as well. The giveaway when this happens is people often report that if they break and remake the connection everything comes back to life...at least for a while.


You might want to consider one of these solutions I mentioned.


P.S. Anther giveaway that the signal is there, but too weak to be a reliable, bulletproof connection is that lower resolution signals like 480i/p work, but 1080P doesn't.
Thanks, I'm using Redmere HDMI from monoprice and that is what suggested by an individual who helped me with the wiring.
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post #5149 of 5480 Old 06-08-2016, 11:30 AM
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Thanks, I'm using Redmere HDMI from monoprice and that is what suggested by an individual who helped me with the wiring.
Maybe the internal booster amp inside the Monoprice Redmere cable got fried? Just a thought.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5150 of 5480 Old 06-14-2016, 09:13 AM
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Since the time of my posting the above in March, the green tinge in my machine's blacks has worsened considerably. Does anyone have any idea what this could be or if there may be any way to correct this issue? It's extremely frustrating and, as a long-time Panasonic fan, very disappointing.
HELP on this one too, please! Just replaced the lamp (with a bonafide Panny lamp) and on dark screens like concerts there's a green hue centered in the middle taking up about 75% of the screen. Do I need to set the RGB settings, Constrast and Brightness?

Thanks
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post #5151 of 5480 Old 06-14-2016, 10:16 AM
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on dark screens like concerts there's a green hue centered in the middle taking up about 75% of the screen.

That sounds to me like a dust blob.


If you take a large, flat, wall poster sized piece of paper or cardboard (ideally white, but use whatever you have) and refocus the image onto that, holding it up to the front of the projector only a few feet away, you can see exactly where all the dust particles are on your panels/polarizers. If you see a big one right in the middle then my suspicion is correct. [Small ones are usually unobtrusive and should not concern you. We all have at least some dust in our optics.]


Please report your findings, for the benefit of all. Thanks.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5152 of 5480 Old 06-14-2016, 10:48 AM
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That sounds to me like a dust blob.


If you take a large, flat, wall poster sized piece of paper or cardboard (ideally white, but use whatever you have) and refocus the image onto that, holding it up to the front of the projector only a few feet away, you can see exactly where all the dust particles are on your panels/polarizers. If you see a big one right in the middle then my suspicion is correct. [Small ones are usually unobtrusive and should not concern you. We all have at least some dust in our optics.]


Please report your findings, for the benefit of all. Thanks.
Thanks! Will do.
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post #5153 of 5480 Old 06-14-2016, 11:17 AM
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Thanks! Will do.
Forgot to mention you need to use a black screen image (I just tried it and used an unused HDMI in).


I projected onto a standard sheet of printer paper about a 1.5 ft from the lens. ... I found a dust blob! Luckily it is not noticeable in real life use but now that I know where it is I'll be paranoid and look for it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5154 of 5480 Old 06-14-2016, 11:59 AM
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Forgot to mention you need to use a black screen image (I just tried it and used an unused HDMI in).


I projected onto a standard sheet of printer paper about a 1.5 ft from the lens. ... I found a dust blob! Luckily it is not noticeable in real life use but now that I know where it is I'll be paranoid and look for it.
Thanks for the update, that sure helps.
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post #5155 of 5480 Old 06-14-2016, 03:15 PM
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Thanks for the update, that sure helps.
Also, if you don't already know it, you can alternate the image seen when focusing, to move away from those green lines it generates, by pressing the center button on the up/down/Left/right control (I forget what they call it) a few times so you can get to the black, dead input image (or whatever actual image you use, but black works best).


The optimum focus to see the flashing "Input HDMI 2" [flashing because it can't lock on], or whatever you use for a black screen, is slightly different from the optimum focus for the dust on your panels. You also can alter focus by simply moving the paper sheet closer or farther from the lens.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5156 of 5480 Old 06-15-2016, 04:48 AM
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Also, if you don't already know it, you can alternate the image seen when focusing, to move away from those green lines it generates, by pressing the center button on the up/down/Left/right control (I forget what they call it) a few times so you can get to the black, dead input image (or whatever actual image you use, but black works best).


The optimum focus to see the flashing "Input HDMI 2" [flashing because it can't lock on], or whatever you use for a black screen, is slightly different from the optimum focus for the dust on your panels. You also can alter focus by simply moving the paper sheet closer or farther from the lens.
No dust blobs just the same soft green hue covering about 85% of the screen. Do I need to adjust my RGB settings in the menu by backing off the Green?
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post #5157 of 5480 Old 06-15-2016, 05:35 AM
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No dust blobs just the same soft green hue covering about 85% of the screen. Do I need to adjust my RGB settings in the menu by backing off the Green?
I doubt that is the problem unless literally you had gone in and adjusted something way out of whack to begin with... Does it make an appreciable difference when you change picture modes? Cinema, Rec 709, etc... But, I believe you could have an issue with your optical block... I believe there was an earlier poster on this thread that had this same green hue showing up on all black scenes... He sent it in for repair and they fixed it.
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post #5158 of 5480 Old 06-15-2016, 09:16 AM
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No dust blobs just the same soft green hue covering about 85% of the screen. Do I need to adjust my RGB settings in the menu by backing off the Green?
Dust blobs are isolated to small color blotches taking up perhaps 5- 10% of the screen or so, each [There are sometimes more than one.]. Large discoloration over large proportions of the screen are sometimes because one or more of the polarizers are burnt or out of whack in some way.


A common reason a polarizer might get harmed is due to power outages. As we all know the projector's fan stays on for a minute or so even after we have powered down and this cools off the bulb so it doesn't melt them. If however one has a power outage, or for some reason an AC power cord leading to the projector gets yanked out prior to the completion of the cool down period [or during use in general] then the heat can cause major damage. Might this have happened? In any event it is not something a consumer can fix on their own and I'm afraid it will have to be sent in for repair.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5159 of 5480 Old 06-15-2016, 02:25 PM
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Food for thought, much thanks.

Power outage is a possibility, don't remember though. I need to hit Default and re-do my settings.
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post #5160 of 5480 Old 06-18-2016, 12:25 PM
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Hi friends,

I am planning to purchase Panasonic AE8000U Projector with Lens Memory Functionality. This projector shifts between 16:9 format and 2.35:1 format as per our wish.

My room is 14.7ft x 10.4ft with 8 ft ceiling and my usage is 70% movies and 30% tv shows/ sports. My purpose is to view all 2.35:1 content on 2.35:1 elitescreen vmax dual without black bars at top and bottom as well as 16:9 content on 16:9 elitescreen vmax dual without any blackbars at top and bottom

My dealer resisted my choice and told me that this is a 3year old projector and now new technologies have come, so instead go with JVC Projector. Is this true or my dealer just trying to upsell his product ? Does Panasonic AE8000U Projector still shines as an all-round performer or has newer models surpassed this old workhorse ?

Please suggest
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