Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 175 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 07-16-2016, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruson View Post
Can someone recommend where to buy a new bulb with housing? Mine has around 3000 hours on it, all in high mode. Ready to get that new super bright image again!
See this earlier post:
Quote:
I went to Panasonic's website and looked up ET-LAA410. They have a link How to Buy.

Listed retailers include Projector People, AGI, and B&H.
The key to getting a legit lamp is that the ad clearly states the brand you are buying is Panasonic, not "OEM" or anything else. You'll know you got the real thing because the box will have a replacement air filter inside as well and according to the Panasonic's manual this should be replaced at the same time, even if the current filter seems fine.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

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Old 07-17-2016, 12:43 PM
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Hey everyone, looking for a bit of help. I tried searching the thread but didn't find anything; probably because I don't know the right terms. Anyway, I have about five gaming consoles hooked up together running through an auto AV switch box (googling "AV switcher" pulls it up, I can't post links yet) and then into the video input of the projector. This worked just fine for quite awhile but recently the games started overlapping a secondary image of the game. It's faint enough that the game is still playable, but it's obviously super annoying anyway. The image "buzzes" in and out, and I think it happens more on screens with a lot going on, than it does with screens that have simple backgrounds or low activity. I've gone through and checked all the physical connections but have stopped short of pulling and replacing each cable; I wanted to ask for opinions before doing that because it will take some effort to do that. My guess is a cable went bad, or even the switch box, but I suppose I'm in here hoping someone will have an easy "go change this setting in the menu" that I just haven't found. Thanks!
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Old 07-17-2016, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cheetah7985 View Post
. My guess is a cable went bad, or even the switch box, but I suppose I'm in here hoping someone will have an easy "go change this setting in the menu" that I just haven't found. Thanks!
Yup. Sorry, your first guess seems accurate.


Unplug the output of the switch box and instead plug it directly to the output of one of the game console. That will answer your question. You also need to test the integrity of the connection going into the projector. Unplug it and reinsert it, being sure it is nice and snug, not loose. With RCA jacks I like to give it a quick twisting motion, a quarter of a turn, as I insert them: This helps scrape off any oxidation buildup off the metal, making a clean surface.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 07-17-2016 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 07-17-2016, 04:30 PM
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Hi guys,

I am looking for a upgrade to my Optoma Hd25e. Is this still a good projector do buy in 2016?

I am looking in project it on a 144" screen.

Thanks
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Old 07-17-2016, 05:26 PM
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There is no one projector to buy just like there is no one car to buy; we all have different needs, budgets, and sensitivities.


The 8000 seems great for me. I like:


- how the exclusive Smoothscreen technology makes and screen door effect a non-issue even for giant, immersive images or viewing up close
- not perfect but very good color right out of the box in REC 709 mode which means tweaking it with a colorimeter is hardly necessary unless you happen to be extremely picky
- quiet fan is dead silent in most but not all standard living room applications
- auto CIH zoom feature allows a nifty, crowd impressing feature to show off to guests [and is nice to have, assuming you have the right shape screen for it (2.35 or 2.4 aspect ratio)]
- the internal waveform monitor, also a Panasonic exclusive, allows automatic calibration of brightness and contrast based on the electrical signal from a test pattern you need to generate from your source device. [Note, this is not a guarantee the settings will be right for all parties because it is not a video camera aimed at your screen, so it has no idea what your room lighting is like, your projected distance, nor the gain factor (reflectivity) of your screen material, however it does seem pretty good in my use at least.]
- the price was considered OK, but not great when it was released, but now it is heavily discounted from its original release price


Things I don't like but can live with:


- the black level was only so-so at the time of release and on top that of there have been improvements in the industry since then. The 8000 can never get so black that it is hard to tell if it is on or not however it certainly seems livable to me
- it also isn't bright enough to work well in anything other than a darkened room with special light-blocking curtains for day use. Don't expect to be able to leave a reading light on so one person in the room could read a book while the others watch the projector. It needs ALL the room's lights turned off for the best image
- the optics when projecting from its center line seem perfectly adequate to me, although there may be sample to sample variations and I just happened to get a good one. Also note that projecting from the sides introduces more color fringing issues and may blur text in the corners if being used as a computer monitor. [This is not the sort of degradation most people would notice with casual TV or movie use unless they purposefully look for it with frozen test patterns.]


P.S. There may be issues with 3D use but it seems most people are like me and rarely use it. There is a section for fine tuning , for instance to minimize ghosting and to optimize it for screen size and seating distance, however some of the controls have virtually no documentation as to what they actually do so all you can do is wing it. "Adjust until it looks good" Gosh, thanks for the detailed explanation, Panny!

Last edited by m. zillch; 07-18-2016 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 07-17-2016, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavio Amorim View Post
Hi guys,

I am looking for a upgrade to my Optoma Hd25e. Is this still a good projector do buy in 2016?

I am looking in project it on a 144" screen.

Thanks
I just got a B-Stock 8000U a few days back and am pleased with it so far. I haven't had a projector since 2009 (last one was PLV-Z4) so of course I don't have a lot to compare against. Also a lot depends on your budget and specific needs, but if it your budget is around around 2K you should definitely also look at the 5030UB and Sony 45ES as well. If you willing to buy a refurbished or B-Stock 8000U at around 1K then it is definitely a no brainer I think. M.Zilch points out some good Pros and Cons. The reviews say the 5030 and 45ES have slightly better black levels and contrast but since that will vary depending on your ambient light, screen material, calibration etc. you have to decide whether it is worth the additional cost or not.

Last edited by topcat2001; 07-17-2016 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 07-17-2016, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by topcat2001 View Post
I just got a B-Stock 8000U a few days back and am pleased with it so far. I haven't had a projector since 2009 (last one was PLV-Z4) so of course I don't have a lot to compare against. Also a lot depends on your budget and specific needs, but if it your budget is around around 2K you should definitely also look at the 5030UB and Sony 45ES as well. If you willing to buy a refurbished or B-Stock 8000U at around 1K then it is definitely a no brainer I think. M.Zilch points out some good Pros and Cons. The reviews say the 5030 and 45ES have slightly better black levels and contrast but since that will vary depending on your ambient light, screen material, calibration etc. you have to decide whether it is worth the additional cost or not.
Hi all - Is the H-position/V-position setting something that degrades the image quality like Keystone or does it preserve the same fidelity as say lens shift?
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:57 PM
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My understanding is that H and V position do not degrade the image (or exact pixel mapping) as keystone adjust does, like you said.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:58 AM
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Where can you get a b stock ae8000 for $1000?
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:42 AM
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When one buys a b-stock unit what assurance do they have that the number of hours on the bulb, according to the internal timer, have not been reset to zero? I've always considered this a risk when buying a used pj in general and have always thought of it as being akin to buying a used car but one with a faulty odometer, hence you don't really know how many miles are truly on it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:42 PM
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Where can you get a b stock ae8000 for $1000?
I got mine from Audio general. They don't have any in stock now but you can keep checking their Panasonic B-stock page or reach out to them directly.
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:59 PM
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When one buys a b-stock unit what assurance do they have that the number of hours on the bulb, according to the internal timer, have not been reset to zero? I've always considered this a risk when buying a used pj in general and have always thought of it as being akin to buying a used car but one with a faulty odometer, hence you don't really know how many miles are truly on it.
The PE shows the last 3 lamp times right? Atleast mine does. I assume you would have to be fairly sophisticated to overcome that. Also you have to go with the reputation of the seller to some extent. Mine came from AGI and I have had a good experience with them since 2003 when I got my first screen from them and they are generally well reviewed. Even 1K is a stretch for me so at $1500+ new the Panny is not an option for me. There is definitely a risk/reward tradeoff as with buying anything used or refurbished. Same way I got my 4 year old used $70K Mercedes for $25K at the height of the Great Recession. I had to spend another 2K on it but considering the new one is not an option I think its an acceptable tradeoff for me.
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:12 PM
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So I have a 2.35 screen (130") and after a few months of using it have deemed that I have mounted it too high as I find my self looking up at the screen too much. I moved the screen down 20cm so that the middle of the screen is more in line with eye level as this is much more comfortable to watch.

So I set the 16x9 picture and everything looked good and fits the screen well (Just to confirm you set 16x9 image first to lens memory then you set 2.35:1)

Then I attempted to set the 2.35:1 picture, but the highest I can get the image without moving the picture using lens control (and changing the 16x9 image placement) is about 20cm lower than the top of the screen and a good 30cm lower than the bottom of the screen.

Is this because my projector is set too high and need to lower the projector.

I've also never been able to use the top and bottom masking for 2.35:1 content since I installed it also because I'm assuming the projector is too high for the screen.

However at least before I moved the screen the images in both aspect ratios fit my screen perfectly.

I'm using a Peerless PRG-UNV mount so thinking I might need to buy the mount and extension pole to fix my issue.

Any ideas?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

Last edited by dsellars1983; 07-20-2016 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:29 AM
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Anyone have thoughts on this strange issue?

A few weeks ago I was watching a 3D movie when the red distortion popped out of nowhere. The blu-ray player is running through a Yamaha receiver that connects to my Panny ceiling mounted.

The distortion isn't in the same place and moves around as though it's a connection/cable issue. The HDMI was running a far distance so it was changed out with a Cat-5 extender to boost the signal. That seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple of weeks.

Just two nights ago, I began to watch another 3D movie through the same blu-ray player and the distortion has occurred again. (Up until then, I had only watched 2D movies so this was the first 3D movie since the first time I experienced the distortion.)

Now, I've tried the blue-ray, AppleTV and Directv (all different inputs in the Yamaha) with the same results. I then tried the HDMI output from the Yamaha into the different inputs of the Panasonic with the same results. I have tried directly connecting different 3 foot HDMI high speed cables from a Macbook pro retina display with the same result as well as using the VGA input on the Panasonic with the same results.

The strange thing is that the distortion doesn't appear on the test pattern of the Panasonic.

I have the warranty to replace the projector, but the issue is driving me nuts and I'm curious if anyone has a clue as to what it could be. Panasonic support was of no help. I've attached a pic.
Did you get this fixed? I have a intermittent issue that similar but more minor and goes off when I switch the projector (main power switch, not just standby) on and off which makes me think it is a signal issue as this restablishes the handshake. Again does not occur in the menus or test patterns. Audio general has agreed to extend the return period a couple of days till Friday so I'm trying to decide between the hassle of returning and then trying to find another projector vs the possibility of this developing into something more permanent like some others have noticed. Now I remember why I haven't been a projector owner since 2009
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Last edited by topcat2001; 07-21-2016 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dsellars1983 View Post
So I have a 2.35 screen (130") and after a few months of using it have deemed that I have mounted it too high as I find my self looking up at the screen too much. I moved the screen down 20cm so that the middle of the screen is more in line with eye level as this is much more comfortable to watch.

So I set the 16x9 picture and everything looked good and fits the screen well (Just to confirm you set 16x9 image first to lens memory then you set 2.35:1)

Then I attempted to set the 2.35:1 picture, but the highest I can get the image without moving the picture using lens control (and changing the 16x9 image placement) is about 20cm lower than the top of the screen and a good 30cm lower than the bottom of the screen.

Is this because my projector is set too high and need to lower the projector.

I've also never been able to use the top and bottom masking for 2.35:1 content since I installed it also because I'm assuming the projector is too high for the screen.

However at least before I moved the screen the images in both aspect ratios fit my screen perfectly.

I'm using a Peerless PRG-UNV mount so thinking I might need to buy the mount and extension pole to fix my issue.

Any ideas?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
Anyone?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dsellars1983 View Post
Is this because my projector is set too high and need to lower the projector.
I think so. You need a projector extension pole. Google is your friend.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:09 PM
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I think so. You need a projector extension pole. Google is your friend.
Thanks already getting the extension pole sorted from Peerless.

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:31 PM
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Anyone else use a 4k blu-ray player with their Panny yet? What are your thoughts on the picture, particularly the colors? Curious if anyone else is seeing what I see ot had any suggestions for settings.

The Hodor Theater - Now with Atmos
Projector - Panasonic PT-AE8000U
LCR speakers - JTR Noesis 228 HT (3)
Surr./Back - Klipsch Pro Cinema KPT-8000M (4); Atmos In-ceiling - Niles DS8HD (4)
Subwoofers - Passive JTR Captivator Pro (2) - Powered by Crown XLS 5000.
Receiver - Yamaha Adventage A3050
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for your mini personal review. It's a really nice/good summary as I wasn't planning on reading this entire thread.

I am new to projectors, and I am wondering, for a wall with a light peach color paint (Clean, matt finish surface, but not the smooth type finished wall) will this projector's brightness mask the wall's surface blemishes.

I am interest in a projector, but its unpractical for us currently to put up a projector screen. I only have the wall, but it's clean except its a light peach color paintwork.

Thanks for any advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
There is no one projector to buy just like there is no one car to buy; we all have different needs, budgets, and sensitivities.


The 8000 seems great for me. I like:


- how the exclusive Smoothscreen technology makes and screen door effect a non-issue even for giant, immersive images or viewing up close
- not perfect but very good color right out of the box in REC 709 mode which means tweaking it with a colorimeter is hardly necessary unless you happen to be extremely picky
- quiet fan is dead silent in most but not all standard living room applications
- auto CIH zoom feature allows a nifty, crowd impressing feature to show off to guests [and is nice to have, assuming you have the right shape screen for it (2.35 or 2.4 aspect ratio)]
- the internal waveform monitor, also a Panasonic exclusive, allows automatic calibration of brightness and contrast based on the electrical signal from a test pattern you need to generate from your source device. [Note, this is not a guarantee the settings will be right for all parties because it is not a video camera aimed at your screen, so it has no idea what your room lighting is like, your projected distance, nor the gain factor (reflectivity) of your screen material, however it does seem pretty good in my use at least.]
- the price was considered OK, but not great when it was released, but now it is heavily discounted from its original release price


Things I don't like but can live with:


- the black level was only so-so at the time of release and on top that of there have been improvements in the industry since then. The 8000 can never get so black that it is hard to tell if it is on or not however it certainly seems livable to me
- it also isn't bright enough to work well in anything other than a darkened room with special light-blocking curtains for day use. Don't expect to be able to leave a reading light on so one person in the room could read a book while the others watch the projector. It needs ALL the room's lights turned off for the best image
- the optics when projecting from its center line seem perfectly adequate to me, although there may be sample to sample variations and I just happened to get a good one. Also note that projecting from the sides introduces more color fringing issues and may blur text in the corners if being used as a computer monitor. [This is not the sort of degradation most people would notice with casual TV or movie use unless they purposefully look for it with frozen test patterns.]


P.S. There may be issues with 3D use but it seems most people are like me and rarely use it. There is a section for fine tuning , for instance to minimize ghosting and to optimize it for screen size and seating distance, however some of the controls have virtually no documentation as to what they actually do so all you can do is wing it. "Adjust until it looks good" Gosh, thanks for the detailed explanation, Panny!
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:09 PM
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You can project onto a plain white wall but it has to be neutral white, or very close to it, or the colors will be off. There are also many inexpensive materials like white vinyl table clothes and white bed sheets which do remarkably well when stretched tight and flat by some means like building a basic frame and using a staple gun, stretching the fabric taught first at the mid points top and bottom and left and right, and then slowly continuing one on to the corners, bit by bit.


Other people buy certain construction materials at Home Depot which are sold in the dry wall section but have a smooth, flat, white surface or another material called foam core from art and supply stores [although these are hard to find as big as you'd want]. We have a whole dedicated DIY section of the forum, I learned much there and I've made several screens this way with great success.


Using a white wall is also a great way to use the special "auto-zoom" mode of this projector:

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Old 08-04-2016, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
You can project onto a plain white wall but it has to be neutral white, or very close to it, or the colors will be off. There are also many inexpensive materials like white vinyl table clothes and white bed sheets which do remarkably well when stretched tight and flat by some means like building a basic frame and using a staple gun, stretching the fabric taught first at the mid points top and bottom and left and right, and then slowly continuing one on to the corners, bit by bit.


Other people buy certain construction materials at Home Depot which are sold in the dry wall section but have a smooth, flat, white surface or another material called foam core from art and supply stores [although these are hard to find as big as you'd want]. We have a whole dedicated DIY section of the forum, I learned much there and I've made several screens this way with great success.


Using a white wall is also a great way to use the special "auto-zoom" mode of this projector:
https://youtu.be/QmHdym5zB5w
I ended up returning the AE8000 and getting a Refurbished 5020UB because of the intermittent red artifacts. I would have loved to keep the projector but even with Panasonic looking at it I was worried it would come back right after the 3 month warranty period. Audio General was great about it and allowed me extra time to evaluate. Compared to the 5020UB there are definitely things I miss such as the Smooth screen, powered zoom and focus and the better default color modes. The 5020UB however has better blacks and contrast and a powered lens cap going for it and it helps that Epson provides the same 2 yr express warranty for refurbished.
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:26 AM
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Glad you have a working unit Topcat.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ChldsPlay View Post
Anyone else use a 4k blu-ray player with their Panny yet? What are your thoughts on the picture, particularly the colors? Curious if anyone else is seeing what I see ot had any suggestions for settings.
I tried my Samsung 8500 and couldn't get a picture at all on my ae8000,tried 4K cables new,nothing. Tried the cables that were in use
already and nothing, the Sammy works perfect with my Sony xbr 75"
x850d setup. I bought it for the Sony tv in my den which has a full blown media room setup with, paradigm studio 60's l&r, studio 590cc, studio 10's for side surr and back surr. Five in-ceiling speakers by BL-810-BLV for atmos/auro3d/ dts-x and a single paradigm older 1500 sub. I was just curious what it would look like in my dedicated
theater, complete with room treatment, darkness and 29 speakers/8subs. I would like to see what the picture looks like and compare to the other blu ray players for the theater.

PeterV
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dragonleepenn View Post
I tried my Samsung 8500 and couldn't get a picture at all on my ae8000,tried 4K cables new,nothing. Tried the cables that were in use
already and nothing, the Sammy works perfect with my Sony xbr 75"
x850d setup. I bought it for the Sony tv in my den which has a full blown media room setup with, paradigm studio 60's l&r, studio 590cc, studio 10's for side surr and back surr. Five in-ceiling speakers by BL-810-BLV for atmos/auro3d/ dts-x and a single paradigm older 1500 sub. I was just curious what it would look like in my dedicated
theater, complete with room treatment, darkness and 29 speakers/8subs. I would like to see what the picture looks like and compare to the other blu ray players for the theater.

PeterV
Hmm, that's kind of weird, but not totally surprising. When I tried someone's Samsung in my theater, it worked fine with 4K discs (outside of the color issue I see on most titles), but when I put in a standard blu-ray I got no signal at all to my projector.

I haven't tried a standard blu-ray in the Phillips player yet, but 4k discs are working fine (against with the exception of the color issue - which is minor, but apparent).

In every instance I have preferred the standard blu-rays (playing on other devices) to what I have seen from the 4k discs.

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Old 08-05-2016, 11:12 AM
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Why would one use a 4K machine on the 8000?

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:39 AM
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I only tried blu ray 1080p disc, no 4K disc. Wanted to see what the Samsung 8500
Could throw out at a 1080p projector . It would not show a picture at all.

PeterV
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
You can project onto a plain white wall but it has to be neutral white, or very close to it, or the colors will be off. There are also many inexpensive materials like white vinyl table clothes and white bed sheets which do remarkably well when stretched tight and flat by some means like building a basic frame and using a staple gun, stretching the fabric taught first at the mid points top and bottom and left and right, and then slowly continuing one on to the corners, bit by bit.


Other people buy certain construction materials at Home Depot which are sold in the dry wall section but have a smooth, flat, white surface or another material called foam core from art and supply stores [although these are hard to find as big as you'd want]. We have a whole dedicated DIY section of the forum, I learned much there and I've made several screens this way with great success.


Using a white wall is also a great way to use the special "auto-zoom" mode of this projector:
https://youtu.be/QmHdym5zB5w
Thanks for advice m.zillch.

However, trying to get the wall to a "flat white" color is a bit of a complicated matter, especially with my dear wife. She organizes the color schemes in our home..... oh well! ;-P
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
Why would one use a 4K machine on the 8000?
Atmos/DTS:X

The Hodor Theater - Now with Atmos
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Subwoofers - Passive JTR Captivator Pro (2) - Powered by Crown XLS 5000.
Receiver - Yamaha Adventage A3050
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonleepenn View Post
I only tried blu ray 1080p disc, no 4K disc. Wanted to see what the Samsung 8500
Could throw out at a 1080p projector . It would not show a picture at all.

PeterV
1080p disc worked fine in the Phillips 4k player.

The Hodor Theater - Now with Atmos
Projector - Panasonic PT-AE8000U
LCR speakers - JTR Noesis 228 HT (3)
Surr./Back - Klipsch Pro Cinema KPT-8000M (4); Atmos In-ceiling - Niles DS8HD (4)
Subwoofers - Passive JTR Captivator Pro (2) - Powered by Crown XLS 5000.
Receiver - Yamaha Adventage A3050
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChldsPlay View Post
1080p disc worked fine in the Phillips 4k player.
So you tried it hooked up to a Phillips 4K player, interesting, and it worked. Nothing on mine,it just stayed blank (black) on the screen.
I like to know if anyone had a ae8000 and got a picture with a samsung 8500 player, how did the picture look with the Phillips player
Chldsplay?


PeterV
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