Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 175 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!



Forum Jump: 
 260Likes
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-16-2016, 10:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,830
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruson View Post
Can someone recommend where to buy a new bulb with housing? Mine has around 3000 hours on it, all in high mode. Ready to get that new super bright image again!
See this earlier post:
Quote:
I went to Panasonic's website and looked up ET-LAA410. They have a link How to Buy.

Listed retailers include Projector People, AGI, and B&H.
The key to getting a legit lamp is that the ad clearly states the brand you are buying is Panasonic, not "OEM" or anything else. You'll know you got the real thing because the box will have a replacement air filter inside as well and according to the Panasonic's manual this should be replaced at the same time, even if the current filter seems fine.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 07-16-2016 at 10:10 AM.
m. zillch is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-17-2016, 12:43 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Hey everyone, looking for a bit of help. I tried searching the thread but didn't find anything; probably because I don't know the right terms. Anyway, I have about five gaming consoles hooked up together running through an auto AV switch box (googling "AV switcher" pulls it up, I can't post links yet) and then into the video input of the projector. This worked just fine for quite awhile but recently the games started overlapping a secondary image of the game. It's faint enough that the game is still playable, but it's obviously super annoying anyway. The image "buzzes" in and out, and I think it happens more on screens with a lot going on, than it does with screens that have simple backgrounds or low activity. I've gone through and checked all the physical connections but have stopped short of pulling and replacing each cable; I wanted to ask for opinions before doing that because it will take some effort to do that. My guess is a cable went bad, or even the switch box, but I suppose I'm in here hoping someone will have an easy "go change this setting in the menu" that I just haven't found. Thanks!
cheetah7985 is offline  
Old 07-17-2016, 12:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,830
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheetah7985 View Post
. My guess is a cable went bad, or even the switch box, but I suppose I'm in here hoping someone will have an easy "go change this setting in the menu" that I just haven't found. Thanks!
Yup. Sorry, your first guess seems accurate.


Unplug the output of the switch box and instead plug it directly to the output of one of the game console. That will answer your question. You also need to test the integrity of the connection going into the projector. Unplug it and reinsert it, being sure it is nice and snug, not loose. With RCA jacks I like to give it a quick twisting motion, a quarter of a turn, as I insert them: This helps scrape off any oxidation buildup off the metal, making a clean surface.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".

Last edited by m. zillch; 07-17-2016 at 12:54 PM.
m. zillch is offline  
Old 07-17-2016, 04:30 PM
Member
 
Flavio Amorim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi guys,

I am looking for a upgrade to my Optoma Hd25e. Is this still a good projector do buy in 2016?

I am looking in project it on a 144" screen.

Thanks
Flavio Amorim is offline  
Old 07-17-2016, 05:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,830
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
There is no one projector to buy just like there is no one car to buy; we all have different needs, budgets, and sensitivities.


The 8000 seems great for me. I like:


- how the exclusive Smoothscreen technology makes and screen door effect a non-issue even for giant, immersive images or viewing up close
- not perfect but very good color right out of the box in REC 709 mode which means tweaking it with a colorimeter is hardly necessary unless you happen to be extremely picky
- quiet fan is dead silent in most but not all standard living room applications
- auto CIH zoom feature allows a nifty, crowd impressing feature to show off to guests [and is nice to have, assuming you have the right shape screen for it (2.35 or 2.4 aspect ratio)]
- the internal waveform monitor, also a Panasonic exclusive, allows automatic calibration of brightness and contrast based on the electrical signal from a test pattern you need to generate from your source device. [Note, this is not a guarantee the settings will be right for all parties because it is not a video camera aimed at your screen, so it has no idea what your room lighting is like, your projected distance, nor the gain factor (reflectivity) of your screen material, however it does seem pretty good in my use at least.]
- the price was considered OK, but not great when it was released, but now it is heavily discounted from its original release price


Things I don't like but can live with:


- the black level was only so-so at the time of release and on top that of there have been improvements in the industry since then. The 8000 can never get so black that it is hard to tell if it is on or not however it certainly seems livable to me
- it also isn't bright enough to work well in anything other than a darkened room with special light-blocking curtains for day use. Don't expect to be able to leave a reading light on so one person in the room could read a book while the others watch the projector. It needs ALL the room's lights turned off for the best image
- the optics when projecting from its center line seem perfectly adequate to me, although there may be sample to sample variations and I just happened to get a good one. Also note that projecting from the sides introduces more color fringing issues and may blur text in the corners if being used as a computer monitor. [This is not the sort of degradation most people would notice with casual TV or movie use unless they purposefully look for it with frozen test patterns.]


P.S. There may be issues with 3D use but it seems most people are like me and rarely use it. There is a section for fine tuning , for instance to minimize ghosting and to optimize it for screen size and seating distance, however some of the controls have virtually no documentation as to what they actually do so all you can do is wing it. "Adjust until it looks good" Gosh, thanks for the detailed explanation, Panny!

Last edited by m. zillch; 07-18-2016 at 12:02 AM.
m. zillch is offline  
Old 07-17-2016, 09:59 PM
Member
 
topcat2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavio Amorim View Post
Hi guys,

I am looking for a upgrade to my Optoma Hd25e. Is this still a good projector do buy in 2016?

I am looking in project it on a 144" screen.

Thanks
I just got a B-Stock 8000U a few days back and am pleased with it so far. I haven't had a projector since 2009 (last one was PLV-Z4) so of course I don't have a lot to compare against. Also a lot depends on your budget and specific needs, but if it your budget is around around 2K you should definitely also look at the 5030UB and Sony 45ES as well. If you willing to buy a refurbished or B-Stock 8000U at around 1K then it is definitely a no brainer I think. M.Zilch points out some good Pros and Cons. The reviews say the 5030 and 45ES have slightly better black levels and contrast but since that will vary depending on your ambient light, screen material, calibration etc. you have to decide whether it is worth the additional cost or not.

Last edited by topcat2001; 07-17-2016 at 10:03 PM.
topcat2001 is online now  
Old 07-17-2016, 10:06 PM
Member
 
topcat2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by topcat2001 View Post
I just got a B-Stock 8000U a few days back and am pleased with it so far. I haven't had a projector since 2009 (last one was PLV-Z4) so of course I don't have a lot to compare against. Also a lot depends on your budget and specific needs, but if it your budget is around around 2K you should definitely also look at the 5030UB and Sony 45ES as well. If you willing to buy a refurbished or B-Stock 8000U at around 1K then it is definitely a no brainer I think. M.Zilch points out some good Pros and Cons. The reviews say the 5030 and 45ES have slightly better black levels and contrast but since that will vary depending on your ambient light, screen material, calibration etc. you have to decide whether it is worth the additional cost or not.
Hi all - Is the H-position/V-position setting something that degrades the image quality like Keystone or does it preserve the same fidelity as say lens shift?
topcat2001 is online now  
Old 07-17-2016, 11:57 PM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,830
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
My understanding is that H and V position do not degrade the image (or exact pixel mapping) as keystone adjust does, like you said.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
Old Yesterday, 03:58 AM
Member
 
stopdrpnro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Where can you get a b stock ae8000 for $1000?
stopdrpnro is offline  
Old Yesterday, 09:42 AM
AVS Special Member
 
m. zillch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,830
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked: 625
When one buys a b-stock unit what assurance do they have that the number of hours on the bulb, according to the internal timer, have not been reset to zero? I've always considered this a risk when buying a used pj in general and have always thought of it as being akin to buying a used car but one with a faulty odometer, hence you don't really know how many miles are truly on it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
m. zillch is offline  
Old Yesterday, 01:42 PM
Member
 
topcat2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by stopdrpnro View Post
Where can you get a b stock ae8000 for $1000?
I got mine from Audio general. They don't have any in stock now but you can keep checking their Panasonic B-stock page or reach out to them directly.
topcat2001 is online now  
Old Yesterday, 01:59 PM
Member
 
topcat2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post
When one buys a b-stock unit what assurance do they have that the number of hours on the bulb, according to the internal timer, have not been reset to zero? I've always considered this a risk when buying a used pj in general and have always thought of it as being akin to buying a used car but one with a faulty odometer, hence you don't really know how many miles are truly on it.
The PE shows the last 3 lamp times right? Atleast mine does. I assume you would have to be fairly sophisticated to overcome that. Also you have to go with the reputation of the seller to some extent. Mine came from AGI and I have had a good experience with them since 2003 when I got my first screen from them and they are generally well reviewed. Even 1K is a stretch for me so at $1500+ new the Panny is not an option for me. There is definitely a risk/reward tradeoff as with buying anything used or refurbished. Same way I got my 4 year old used $70K Mercedes for $25K at the height of the Great Recession. I had to spend another 2K on it but considering the new one is not an option I think its an acceptable tradeoff for me.
m. zillch likes this.
topcat2001 is online now  
Old Yesterday, 07:12 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 0
So I have a 2.35 screen (130") and after a few months of using it have deemed that I have mounted it too high as I find my self looking up at the screen too much. I moved the screen down 20cm so that the middle of the screen is more in line with eye level as this is much more comfortable to watch.

So I set the 16x9 picture and everything looked good and fits the screen well (Just to confirm you set 16x9 image first to lens memory then you set 2.35:1)

Then I attempted to set the 2.35:1 picture, but the highest I can get the image without moving the picture using lens control (and changing the 16x9 image placement) is about 20cm lower than the top of the screen and a good 30cm lower than the bottom of the screen.

Is this because my projector is set too high and need to lower the projector.

I've also never been able to use the top and bottom masking for 2.35:1 content since I installed it also because I'm assuming the projector is too high for the screen.

However at least before I moved the screen the images in both aspect ratios fit my screen perfectly.

I'm using a Peerless PRG-UNV mount so thinking I might need to buy the mount and extension pole to fix my issue.

Any ideas?

Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

Last edited by dsellars1983; Yesterday at 07:22 PM.
dsellars1983 is offline  
Old Today, 08:29 AM
Member
 
topcat2001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Hansen View Post
Anyone have thoughts on this strange issue?

A few weeks ago I was watching a 3D movie when the red distortion popped out of nowhere. The blu-ray player is running through a Yamaha receiver that connects to my Panny ceiling mounted.

The distortion isn't in the same place and moves around as though it's a connection/cable issue. The HDMI was running a far distance so it was changed out with a Cat-5 extender to boost the signal. That seemed to have fixed the problem for a couple of weeks.

Just two nights ago, I began to watch another 3D movie through the same blu-ray player and the distortion has occurred again. (Up until then, I had only watched 2D movies so this was the first 3D movie since the first time I experienced the distortion.)

Now, I've tried the blue-ray, AppleTV and Directv (all different inputs in the Yamaha) with the same results. I then tried the HDMI output from the Yamaha into the different inputs of the Panasonic with the same results. I have tried directly connecting different 3 foot HDMI high speed cables from a Macbook pro retina display with the same result as well as using the VGA input on the Panasonic with the same results.

The strange thing is that the distortion doesn't appear on the test pattern of the Panasonic.

I have the warranty to replace the projector, but the issue is driving me nuts and I'm curious if anyone has a clue as to what it could be. Panasonic support was of no help. I've attached a pic.
Did you get this fixed? I have a intermittent issue that similar but more minor and goes off when I switch the projector (main power switch, not just standby) on and off which makes me think it is a signal issue. Again does not occur in the menus or test patterns.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20160719_205337.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	66.1 KB
ID:	1557745  
topcat2001 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

Tags
Epson 5020ub Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector , Jvc Dla X35 3d Hd Front Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae7000u 1080p Full Hd Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae4000u 1600 Lumen Lcd Home Theater Projector , Sony Vpl Hw50es 3d Projector , Darbeevision Darblet Hdmi Video Processor , Panasonic Ptae8000u Hd Projector
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off