Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 3508 Old 11-27-2012, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy98mtu View Post

I totally agree. I think it's a great value projector. Not going to beat a crazy expensive Runco or something, but will convince folks who don't think projectors are "there" yet that they are. My father-in-law was here last weekend. After about 20 minutes he says, "I've been in several of these rooms and never felt like I wanted one. Now I feel like I NEED one!" My wife, who has heard me talking about it for over a year and knew what level i was taking things to, was blown away and admits the room is more than she expected. I'm throwing a 143" diagonal (11 feet wide) 2.35:1 image on a $200 DIY Spandex screen, so I don't expect it to be tack sharp. But watching a movie from 14-15 feet away it looks very sharp. Nobody who has seen it has had a single negative thing to say about it.
No regrets about my purchase.

Hah it's funny you say that...

I went into a store to demo some speakers for my living room. Had no plan on getting a projector. Of course, their awesome setup was in a dedicated theater room with a 110" projector screen.

So I put on my favorite movie (Saving Private Ryan) to demo the speakers and put on the beach scene. As soon as the boats started unloading troops in my head I was like "yep ... I'm turning my basement into a theater."

Keep in mind, my wife and I moved into our house 3 months ago and we're first time home owners so we have A LOT of things to buy. And we're not putting things on credit card so we don't go into debt, so we're getting stuff paycheck to paycheck.

I then bought the 8000 w/out my wife even knowing about it. I picked it up from the UPS store so she wouldn't know. That night I hooked it up with no sound or anything, just projected the image on the wall and was like "honey come down here."

When she came down she was ssssoooo pissed at first mentioning how we need to buy other stuff for the house and what not. But within like 30 seconds she was laughing and smiling and was like "this is cool!".

Now she is all for it and wants it done faster than I do haha.
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post #542 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd7723 View Post

Sorry to bother you, can you briefly explain the effect of a beaded screen and where you purchased it please? thanks.

Hi there. A glass beaded screen reflects light better thereby improving brightness. My screen was fairly cheap and does look incredible, but when at normal lamp mode and panning up/down, left and right, it does show the slightest bit of image inconsistency. I believe this is caused by the glass beads not being properly aligned

The inconsistency is ever so slight and doesn't bother me at all because the projected image is truly breathtaking 99% of the time

I got mine 4 years ago off Ebay for 145 pounds delivered. It's a 120" 16x9 electric screen
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post #543 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So I have a couple questions for you guys after putting that NEC image on my projector. I'll link to the hi-res pic I took on imgur.
http://i.imgur.com/07Icx.jpg
Also note, it is not centered because I wanted to take the pic sitting on a table that would keep the camera square to the screen.
So couple questions....
1. If you look at the top of the screen, you will see that the blocks go across properly as expected. However if you look at the screen you will notice that it staggers "up" 1 row of blocks. What could cause this to happen? I do know for a fact that my wall behind is not 100% smooth and that both corners of the screen are not flush on the wall due to this. But it is only off the wall by a very little bit. Could this cause this problem?
2. Please keep in mind this is my first projector ever so this may be a dumb question. I noticed that after focusing on that image and finding the best focus I could, that the top-center of the screen was more focused than the outer edges of the screen. This also seemed to cause the outer portions of the image to look a tad lighter, almost a hint of yellow color. I'm assuming this is due to the focus not being as good on the outer edge as it is in the center. Now keep in mind, it's not extremely noticeable or anything, and I didn't notice this at all watching some movie clips or playing a game for 20 minutes on there, but with this image I noticed it almost immediately. My projector is ceiling mounted as well, so basically it is pointing directly at the center top of the screen. So is that why it seems the most focused in that one area and not quite as focused in other areas? Again, nothing huge by any means but I'd like to be certain I don't have a defective unit.
3. My projector mount on my ceiling has a knob that can tilt the projector up/down. Could I fix these focus issues by basically tilting my projector so that it's aimed at the middle of my screen instead of the top of my screen, and then use the projectors analog stick thing to move the image up? Or would that essentially be doing the same thing it's doing now? As it sits now, it's basically pointed straight at the wall, parallel to the floor and I've used the analog stick thing to move the image down.
A couple of notes too...
The analog stick is a pain in the ass to move in one direction. It always moves to the side if just trying to go up/down and vice versa. And when you want to nudge it a tad, you have to over nudge it because it moves back just a bit from where you moved it to. It's annoying.
I also noticed that when focusing on the text in the "lens" screen that pops up, when I had it overlayed to the NEC image, that when the NEC image was focused the best, the overlay was not quite 100% in focus. And if I made the overlay 100% in focus, the NEC text was not 100% focused. Again it's VERY minor out of focus, but just something I noticed.

1. I must not be seeing the issue you're referring to here. Every fourth column in that image is a repeat; looking across the image the blocks appear to be rising. However if you look only at one particular style of column/block...it looks level to me.

2. Due to your PJ being ceiling mounted, you're using the vertical lens shift at a more extreme position I assume. The more lens shift you use, the farther from the center of the lens you use. The outer portions of the lens are possibly less uniform than the center of the lens. So this could be a source of some focus anomolies. However I also see along the bottom that the image is curved upward in the center and downward on the left and right. I think this is an artifact of the ceiling mounting position. Others with ceiling mounts may be able to further comment. My projector is mounted on the rear wall as close to centered on the screen as possible.

3. I would leave the PJ horizontal. Tilting it down could result in excessive keystoning. That being said, it doesn't cost anything to give it a try and see what you think.

Analog stick: it's inferior to the separate geared wheels on the previous models. I had a stick on my 700; horrible! The 8000's stick is much better though - smoother, with a finder ability to tighten it incrementally.

Your last comment: I mentioned that phenomenon in an earlier post. Go with the sharp image rather than sharp panel pixels on the focusing overlay. Simply looks much better! smile.gif
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post #544 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 09:09 AM
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Seeing lots of 'focus issue' comments. Keep in mind that to get PERFECT sharp focus across the entire image is going to be next to impossible. It would take a perfect screen, perfectly aligning both screen and projector, having a projector with perfectly aligned panels, and having a lens that could maintain perfect focus across the entire image. At this price point, that just isn't a realistic expectation. If you are focusing while looking at the image from 1-3 feet away from screen, the goal is to get as much of the screen in sharp focus as possible with none of the screen totally out of focus (as in can't even resolve that it is text). What seems like 'bad' focus from 1-3 feet away when looking at pixel width detail will look fine from your normal viewing distance when viewing normal material. If you can see issues with normal material from your normal seating distance, that is a different matter.
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post #545 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 10:07 AM
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HMenke, I just finished following your easy instructions but, while this takes care of the CIH vertical alignment for both 1.78 and 2.35, it still does not fix the horizontal image shift between them in my particular setup. This horizontal misalignment is created by the projector being installed with its lens 3.75" away from the horizontal center of the screen, which was not the case for my old 3000.

I think the only way to solve this, is to find a way to move the projector so that its lens is aimed squarely at the horizontal center of the screen. WIth the 3000, this was a non-issue since it has its lens right in the middle and the pole is also centered against the screen. Shifting the pole hanging from the ceiling is not an option for me. I am currently using a Chief RPA Universal mount and they seem to have a lateral shift accessory (LSB-100) that allows for 3" of side travel. So I guess I will just have to get one of those. I just hope the extra 3/4" needed won't be missed.

My findings are that for the Panasonic 3/4/7/8000 to work with CIH screens via its zoom lens memory feature, the projector must be installed so that its lens is exactly aligned with the horizontal center of the screen. Otherwise, any mechanical left / right lens adjustments (wheel / joystick) won't allow for the zoom lens memory to work properly.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Bill
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post #546 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonSuave View Post

I apologize in advance for this being a troll post.
I just went to the UPS store to drop off my defective PT-AE8000U. When I took the box to the counter, the UPS guy says “Hey someone just dropped off this exact same box.” He points to behind the counter where, sure enough, there lies another PT-AE8000U box! Unfortunately the UPS guy wouldn’t let me take a picture of the two boxes nestled next to each other. Note: this was at the Leesburg, VA UPS store.
Now, this is just pure extrapolation, but if we assume that each UPS store gets 2 return-units shipped per day (~4,400 UPS stores in the US; ~60 days since launch), Panasonic could be looking at up to 528,000 defective units since launch. I’m guessing they haven’t even sold 1M units thus far, so we could be looking at some serious post-launch quality control issues.
I’m curious: out of the folks on this thread who have purchased, how many are satisfied with the first unit that they received?

I'm delighted with it. This is my fourth projector. If there were widespready problems with these, this thread would be lit up like our Christmas trees. You should have bought a lottery ticket, because you were obviously living that day in a world of statistical anomalies. smile.gif
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post #547 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 10:55 AM
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billmac,

The lens on my 8000 is not centered on the screen either, nor was even the lens on the 3000 I had before. I'm not at home right now to measure it, but I think the 8000's lens is about 5-6" offset to one side.

For this to concept to work, it's necessary to accept that the 1.78:1 image will not be left/right centered in the exact middle of the 2.35:1 screen. In your case, the left/right offset of the 1.78:1 image would be about half the lens offset, so 3.75" / 2 = 1.88" or about 2". For me personally, I can easily live with that; it doesn't bother me that the black bars on each side are not the same width. To me it's much more critical for the 2.35:1 image to be centered left/right on the screen. Am I making sense?

Here are a couple of illustrations that might help. I have exaggerated the offset of the 1.78:1 image so that it can be readily perceived. Note that the left black bar is narrower than the right black bar.



In the 2.35:1 image, note that the upper and lower black bars are different sizes due to digital image shift being used to properly position the image up/down.

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post #548 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 11:08 AM
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Just got my PT-AE8000U in and plugged in for a preliminary test. Bear in mind I owned a PT-AE7000U for a year, so this is a comparison as well.

I haven't had a huge chance to play with it yet, but these are some initial impressions.

I'm projecting onto a Seymour Screen Excellence 4K AT 16:9 retractable screen, 100" diagonal, 1.0 gain, 11.5 feet throw.

Findings:

1.) The unit looks exactly the same as the 7000U. Curiously, though, no manufacturing date on the serial number. I haven't looked too hard, but I found that interesting, since the 7000 tells you when it was manufactured on the side, under the serial number if I recall correctly.

2.) The joystick is still a bloody nightmare, but thankfully you only have to use it briefly.

3.) ECO Lamp mode is EXTREMELY quiet, - I'd say the same as the 7000 from what I recall, but NORMAL-Lamp fan noise definitely seems louder to me, probably due to the increased lumen/heat output.

4.) Brightness is definitely improved over the 7000, considerably so. You still won't be watching 3D movies with the lights on, but you CAN watch 3D movies with a little ambient light (depending on your screen size etc etc)

5.) The high-pitched whine some people are reporting is the EXACT same sound the PT-AE7000U has. I recognized the characteristics immediately (I had the 7000 for a year). If you sit underneath a projector shelf, it will LIKELY not bother you at all. If you sit in front of the projector, with the projector behind/behind+above you - just mounted, it MIGHT bother you depending on your sensitivity to these things. I can imagine most people won't be bothered by it, and some people will be (as this thread proves). I stand by saying that if it does bother you immensely, don't was your time with a replacement because they all do this. Do I think people have grounds to send it back over this noise? Absolutely! But I also think it's not going to bother the majority of people, and I definitely feel bad for those sensitive to it.

6.) The sharpness of my unit is pretty good, though not perfect. My upper right corner is nowhere near as sharp as the center, but still decent enough, especially with some initial tinkering. Will play with this some more later.

I had How To Train Your Dragon 3D Blu-ray on, and it looked great. 3D Motion Remaster was set to on by default. I'd love to say I noticed a huge difference with it on and off in my short test, but I didn't. I'd be interested to see how it behaves with live action movies, and will no doubt update when I get more screen time.

If you guys have any questions, feel free to ask, though I can't guarantee I can answer. biggrin.gif
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post #549 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

billmac,
The lens on my 8000 is not centered on the screen either, nor was even the lens on the 3000 I had before. I'm not at home right now to measure it, but I think the 8000's lens is about 5-6" offset to one side.
For this to concept to work, it's necessary to accept that the 1.78:1 image will not be left/right centered in the exact middle of the 2.35:1 screen. In your case, the left/right offset of the 1.78:1 image would be about half the lens offset, so 3.75" / 2 = 1.88" or about 2". For me personally, I can easily live with that; it doesn't bother me that the black bars on each side are not the same width. To me it's much more critical for the 2.35:1 image to be centered left/right on the screen. Am I making sense?
Here are a couple of illustrations that might help. I have exaggerated the offset of the 1.78:1 image so that it can be readily perceived. Note that the left black bar is narrower than the right black bar.

But if you are using a masking sulution that requires the 1.78 and 2.35 both to be centered on the screen, you have to have the lense center of the screen?
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post #550 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 12:16 PM
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HI All,

Just got my AE8000 installed last night. Here are some things I am wondering if others are seeing:

1) The fan is all over the place. It seems like when there is no signal (like during an A/V input switch) it gets really quiet. Then it cranks back up. Anyone else seeing (i.e. hearing) this?
2) If the projector loses input for for a brief second, it flashes that damn annoying input select screen. I have set the input select scan to "OFF," but this doesn not correct the problem.

Thanks!
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post #551 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

But if you are using a masking solution that requires the 1.78 and 2.35 both to be centered on the screen, you have to have the lens center of the screen?

Yes, that would be correct. I'm not using a masking system...in my application I don't see any reason for one.
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post #552 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

HI All,
Just got my AE8000 installed last night. Here are some things I am wondering if others are seeing:
1) The fan is all over the place. It seems like when there is no signal (like during an A/V input switch) it gets really quiet. Then it cranks back up. Anyone else seeing (i.e. hearing) this?
2) If the projector loses input for for a brief second, it flashes that damn annoying input select screen. I have set the input select scan to "OFF," but this doesn not correct the problem.
Thanks!

1) Normal, but agreed somewhat obnoxious. However...I'd rather have the fan do what it needs to do to protect the unit under all conditions.

2) Normal...and agreed it is rather annoying. I'm not sure why they don't suppress the flashing during momentary signal lapses, such as when a Blu-ray is loading up.
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post #553 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

I had How To Train Your Dragon 3D Blu-ray on, and it looked great. 3D Motion Remaster was set to on by default. I'd love to say I noticed a huge difference with it on and off in my short test, but I didn't.

Cool movie! I'm looking forward to trying it out on my setup. What source device did you use to play the disc?
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post #554 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Yes, that would be correct. I'm not using a masking system...in my application I don't see any reason for one.

That is what I was afraid of. I hope they had a really good design reason for switching to a side lense, cause is really screws up people swithing progects that have their poles and stuff already mounted. Guess I am going to have to make a custom adapter plate to offset it when I decide to replace my 4000. Just don't like the look of the projector not hanging from the center of the pole.
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post #555 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 01:37 PM
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Can someone comment on how quickly this unit warms up? How long after you turn it on are you watching video?

Thanks, Pete
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post #556 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Cool movie! I'm looking forward to trying it out on my setup. What source device did you use to play the disc?

Panasonic BDT-210 (last year's model) Blu-ray player.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Club Chapin View Post

Can someone comment on how quickly this unit warms up? How long after you turn it on are you watching video?
Thanks, Pete

Under 2 minutes? Maybe even under a minute before it's usable. It's really quick. You turn it on, you see the Panasonic logo fade in after a few seconds, and then it brightens pretty quickly, really.
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post #557 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Panasonic BDT-210 (last year's model) Blu-ray player.
Under 2 minutes? Maybe even under a minute before it's usable. It's really quick. You turn it on, you see the Panasonic logo fade in after a few seconds, and then it brightens pretty quickly, really.

Thanks!
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post #558 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 03:21 PM
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You guys may want to check focus drift over time. My Sony HW50 takes 1 hour for focus to stabilize. By a half hour, it's acceptable. But I wouldn't even attempt focusing the projector until it's been on for an hour, at least.
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post #559 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

You guys may want to check focus drift over time. My Sony HW50 takes 1 hour for focus to stabilize. By a half hour, it's acceptable. But I wouldn't even attempt focusing the projector until it's been on for an hour, at least.

Excellent point. All of my lens memories are stored only after extended warm-up of 30-60 minutes.
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post #560 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

That is what I was afraid of. I hope they had a really good design reason for switching to a side lense, cause is really screws up people swithing progects that have their poles and stuff already mounted. Guess I am going to have to make a custom adapter plate to offset it when I decide to replace my 4000. Just don't like the look of the projector not hanging from the center of the pole.

I just measured my 1.78:1 offset. The black bars are 12" wide on the right and 11" wide on the left.

I supposed this could be dealt with in a masking system by centering the mechanism on the 1.78 image and then just letting it open a little farther on one side of the 2.35 image.
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post #561 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

You guys may want to check focus drift over time. My Sony HW50 takes 1 hour for focus to stabilize. By a half hour, it's acceptable. But I wouldn't even attempt focusing the projector until it's been on for an hour, at least.

Interesting. I had no clue about that stuff. I don't think I've even had my projector on for more than 30 minutes straight.
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post #562 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jacksback View Post

Hey guys
So I finally upgraded my PT-AE2000U projector and went with the 8000. Difference in quality? Night & Day!! The PT-AE8000U puts out the most amazing projected image I have ever seen, and just like some other person said, it's up there with the top of the range LED TVs, simply stunning!! Don't get me wrong, the PT-AE2000U was very impressive to watch but the 8000 completely destroys it!!
3D at first was a bit of a let down but after some fine tuning, it started looking better and better. The problem is I only have some side by side and top and bottom 3D content at my disposal which is probably adding noise to the image. I plan on buying some Real D Blu-Rays soon and will report back if it's much better. Saying that, I did see some of the best 3D I've ever seen. My suggestion to those not liking the 3D image is to set the brightness of the glasses to light (Found in the 3D menu while playing content). It makes the image much brighter and gives it a much more comfortable feel
My setup is the 8000 on a 120" glass beaded 1.3 gain screen and the medium size new generation Panasonic glasses.
I picked up the 8000 for $2195 from A&G (Brand New/Sealed B stock item), what a bargain!!!
Question regarding 3D auto detection, do I need a 1.4 HDMI cable to get that to work?
Thanks


Just got the same deal you got. Brand new factory sealed panny 8000 from audio general for 2195. Just to let you guys know that there are still 3 "B" stock PJ's available at this price at audio general as of 3 hours ago. The only downside to this deal is that you get a limited 90 day warranty as opposed to 2 years. Well worth it to me though. Mine should be shipping out on the morrow. I'll keep you guys posted once I receive the projector!
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post #563 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jacksback View Post

Hi there. A glass beaded screen reflects light better thereby improving brightness. My screen was fairly cheap and does look incredible, but when at normal lamp mode and panning up/down, left and right, it does show the slightest bit of image inconsistency. I believe this is caused by the glass beads not being properly aligned
The inconsistency is ever so slight and doesn't bother me at all because the projected image is truly breathtaking 99% of the time
I got mine 4 years ago off Ebay for 145 pounds delivered. It's a 120" 16x9 electric screen

Hey thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I am trying to decide between the panny 8000, epson 5020 and 3020. thanks again take care.
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post #564 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by azula View Post

Just got the same deal you got. Brand new factory sealed panny 8000 from audio general for 2195. Just to let you guys know that there are still 3 "B" stock PJ's available at this price at audio general as of 3 hours ago. The only downside to this deal is that you get a limited 90 day warranty as opposed to 2 years. Well worth it to me though. Mine should be shipping out on the morrow. I'll keep you guys posted once I receive the projector!

That is a good deal. Bear in mind it's $2195 with 90 day warranty vs paying more - with 3-year warranty, $100 rebate, and 2 pairs of glasses.

I do think that $2195 is a good deal, but that warranty is a real killer! I was on the edge of buying one, but hated that 90-days. If it had been a year, I'd have jumped.
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post #565 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 08:41 PM
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Thanks for the info on that offer. I'm still sat on the fence trying to decide if its worth updating the ae4000. I'm not really that bothered about 3d

Anyway, what does B-stock mean ?

*edit*

Nvm. Figured it out:


What is B Stock? Panasonic projectors become “B” stock if they are returned to Panasonic for any reason. There could have been damage to the box and the customer refused it or the unit was dead on arrival and was returned for replacement. Most of the units have less than 5 hours of use and are in like-new condition. All returned units are inspected and, if necessary, repaired by Panasonic.
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post #566 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 08:44 PM
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Some updates after spending another hour with my new Panasonic PT-AE8000U this evening in the dark (my precious...).

1.) 3D is still useless on it, I decided. Well, useless is a harsh word. How about.... not in the same league as the Epson 5010 (no idea about the 5020). Crosstalk is RAMPANT throughout my test movies. The infamous Transformers 3 3D scene during the end credits with silhouettes reveals just how disastrous the 3D implementation is on these projectors. I enclose a photo from my iPhone, through the left lens of my 3rd generation Panasonic glasses. In reality there's crosstalk on both sides of the silhouette.

Picture settings: Normal Picture mode. Normal lamp mode. Glasses set to "Medium." Motion Remaster/Frame Creation set to OFF.



I know, I know, this is a HORRIBLE scene for a 3D projector to deal with, but let me tell you - in my testing of the Epson 5010, it had NO issues with this scene. Crosstalk is visible a lot of the time if you're sensitive to it (I am). Fast-moving scenes tend to hide it since your mind doesn't have time to pick apart the details.

2.) Color uniformity is still mediocre, and has been on Panasonic LCD projectors for years and year. The center of my image is much greener than the surrounding areas of image. Both my PT-AE7000s had color uniformity issues, so this comes as no surprise. But for those thinking about buying an 8000, be aware of this.

3.) Fan noise really is noticeably louder on the PT-AE8000U's NORMAL lamp mode than on the PT-AE7000's NORMAL lamp mode. ECO mode is still whisper quiet.

4.) 3D Motion Remaster seems to be a giant gimmick to me. It's basically just a modified Frame Creation mode. I can't see any point to it.

5.) Frame Creation comes by default set to ON. Seriously, Panasonic? Seriously? Make sure you turn it off. I found I had to turn it off in 3D AND in 2D. I can't stand inserted frames, but your opinions may differ.

6.) Still not as bright as the Epson 5010. I still crave more brightness. 2D has plenty of brightness, - PLENTY. You switch to 3D, and still, I want more, ESPECIALLY in dark scenes.

7.) My sharpness uniformity is a bit all over the place. After some calibration and messing with it, I have to find a "middle ground" of sharpness, where everything is "pretty sharp" vs the center being REALLY sharp and the top right corner being quite blurry.

So where does the PT-AE8000U stand? Well. Panasonic still hasn't learnt from its mistakes in 3D with the PT-AE7000U, that's for sure. It's a good projector, but if you're looking mostly for a good 3D projector, forget the Panasonic. It simply doesn't hold a candle to the Epson (and I haven't even tried the 5020!).
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post #567 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Some updates after spending another hour with my new Panasonic PT-AE8000U this evening in the dark (my precious...).
1.) 3D is still useless on it, I decided. Well, useless is a harsh word. How about.... not in the same league as the Epson 5010 (no idea about the 5020). Crosstalk is RAMPANT throughout my test movies. The infamous Transformers 3 3D scene during the end credits with silhouettes reveals just how disastrous the 3D implementation is on these projectors. I enclose a photo from my iPhone, through the left lens of my 3rd generation Panasonic glasses. In reality there's crosstalk on both sides of the silhouette.
Picture settings: Normal Picture mode. Normal lamp mode. Glasses set to "Medium." Motion Remaster/Frame Creation set to OFF.

I know, I know, this is a HORRIBLE scene for a 3D projector to deal with, but let me tell you - in my testing of the Epson 5010, it had NO issues with this scene. Crosstalk is visible a lot of the time if you're sensitive to it (I am). Fast-moving scenes tend to hide it since your mind doesn't have time to pick apart the details.
2.) Color uniformity is still mediocre, and has been on Panasonic LCD projectors for years and year. The center of my image is much greener than the surrounding areas of image. Both my PT-AE7000s had color uniformity issues, so this comes as no surprise. But for those thinking about buying an 8000, be aware of this.
3.) Fan noise really is noticeably louder on the PT-AE8000U's NORMAL lamp mode than on the PT-AE7000's NORMAL lamp mode. ECO mode is still whisper quiet.
4.) 3D Motion Remaster seems to be a giant gimmick to me. It's basically just a modified Frame Creation mode. I can't see any point to it.
5.) Frame Creation comes by default set to ON. Seriously, Panasonic? Seriously? Make sure you turn it off. I found I had to turn it off in 3D AND in 2D. I can't stand inserted frames, but your opinions may differ.
6.) Still not as bright as the Epson 5010. I still crave more brightness. 2D has plenty of brightness, - PLENTY. You switch to 3D, and still, I want more, ESPECIALLY in dark scenes.
7.) My sharpness uniformity is a bit all over the place. After some calibration and messing with it, I have to find a "middle ground" of sharpness, where everything is "pretty sharp" vs the center being REALLY sharp and the top right corner being quite blurry.
So where does the PT-AE8000U stand? Well. Panasonic still hasn't learnt from its mistakes in 3D with the PT-AE7000U, that's for sure. It's a good projector, but if you're looking mostly for a good 3D projector, forget the Panasonic. It simply doesn't hold a candle to the Epson (and I haven't even tried the 5020!).

Sorry But you are so WRONG!
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post #568 of 3508 Old 11-28-2012, 11:53 PM
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post #569 of 3508 Old 11-29-2012, 04:31 AM
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He is

3D looked very bad the first time I tried it on the 8000, but after a bit of tweaking it's the best 3D I have ever seen! And the 2D image is AMAZING!!! Trust me when I say it's better looking than the top of the range LED TVs.

Last night I watched Disney Cars with my kids (the first one). I've watched it a few hundred times on my old projector and Samsung LCD TV but saw things on the projected 8000 image that I have never seen before. The pop and colours it produces is jaw dropping! I just kept on shaking my head and calling my wife over. It's truly incredible what they have managed to achieve

@WilliamG, do you have Wrath of the Titans on Blu-ray? The 3D in that movie is fantastic
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post #570 of 3508 Old 11-29-2012, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

That is a good deal. Bear in mind it's $2195 with 90 day warranty vs paying more - with 3-year warranty, $100 rebate, and 2 pairs of glasses.
I do think that $2195 is a good deal, but that warranty is a real killer! I was on the edge of buying one, but hated that 90-days. If it had been a year, I'd have jumped.

The B-Stock deal is great for international customers who will end up having no warranty in their country.

For the same price of a new 8000, I got a B-Stock unit (which was Brand New/Sealed), 4 pairs of glasses, shipping to Cape Town South Africa and Import Duties and TAXes paid
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