Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 09:16 AM
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I have found out what is causing the line on my screen and it seems there is a series of "dimples"/indents from top to bottom of the screen that cause the light to hit differently there. I found that on the bare roller there is a raised spot that must stretch the screen slightly when rolled up and then those spots turn to indents when lowered which form a depression/line. Must not take much screen deviation to cause issues on these screens. It is hard to pick up with a camera but it can be seen easily from seating position. Would you exchange the screen for this problem? Thanks
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post #992 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Loving my AE8000U.
Has anyone else seen this...
I've got a PS3 and Dune HD Max player as sources into an ONKYO receiver.
The colors for the user interface on both of these appear more green where black would normally appear when I'm using the HDMI 1 input on the projector. Once the movie, plays the colors seem to correct themselves.
So this is noticable on the PS3 main menu and the Dune's menu system.
If I switch the connection to the HDMI 2 input on the projector, everything appears fine.
I'm guessing I have a bad HDMI port?


For anyone interested, I solved the color problem by going to that particular input, then selecting MENU > PICTURE > ADVANCED MENU and setting the YPbPbr setting to AUTO.

It must be input independent rather than a universal setting.

Mario


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post #993 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommmyJ View Post

I have found out what is causing the line on my screen and it seems there is a series of "dimples"/indents from top to bottom of the screen that cause the light to hit differently there. I found that on the bare roller there is a raised spot that must stretch the screen slightly when rolled up and then those spots turn to indents when lowered which form a depression/line. Must not take much screen deviation to cause issues on these screens. It is hard to pick up with a camera but it can be seen easily from seating position. Would you exchange the screen for this problem? Thanks

I wouldn't want to watch that for a few thousand hours. It would just annoy me every time I turned on the PJ. My elevated blood pressure would require me to replace the screen.
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post #994 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 11:19 AM
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I have been watching some 3D on my AE8000, and it seems to be blurry (I think this is called "crosstalk"). I am playing 3D blurays from a Sony bluray player, running through an Onkyo 808, all over HDMI. Using the standard Panasonic glasses. I generally run the lamp in "Normal" and changepicture mode to Dynamic (I think that is what is called).

Things I notice:
1) If the movie has some subtitle text (like a quick subtitle if someone speaks in a different language), the subtitle is ghosted pretty bad.
2) Sometimes it appears that things in foreground of scene are in 3d focus, but things further back are not.

Any recommendations? Is there a recommended calibration disc for focusing? I have tried to pause 3D material so I can play with the focus, but when you do that everything is in 2D.


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post #995 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaTheater View Post

I have been watching some 3D on my AE8000, and it seems to be blurry (I think this is called "crosstalk"). I am playing 3D blurays from a Sony bluray player, running through an Onkyo 808, all over HDMI. Using the standard Panasonic glasses. I generally run the lamp in "Normal" and changepicture mode to Dynamic (I think that is what is called).
Things I notice:
1) If the movie has some subtitle text (like a quick subtitle if someone speaks in a different language), the subtitle is ghosted pretty bad.
2) Sometimes it appears that things in foreground of scene are in 3d focus, but things further back are not.
Any recommendations? Is there a recommended calibration disc for focusing? I have tried to pause 3D material so I can play with the focus, but when you do that everything is in 2D.

When I pause 3D, it stays in 3D.

A good disk for test patterns is DVE HD Basics Blu-ray.

I believe that 3D ghosting is caused mainly by the mastering of the content. That's only an opinion...I have not had a chance to compare a given bad scene on any other 3D equipment. It just seems to me that the extreme parallax settings in certain scenes exceed the capabilities of the equipment to handle it. For example, in Kung Fu Panda 2 there's a scene showing the landscape of the city where the evil peacock lives. The towers in that scene exhibit horrible crosstalk...it looks like double images. Yet these towers are supposed to be far away in the distance...there should be almost no parallax in them as far as I'm concerned. This is a mastering error IMO.

Unfortunately, the brighter you make the image, the more ghosting/crosstalk becomes visible. You can try finding a happy medium by playing 3D in Normal Mode/Normal Lamp instead of Dynamic Mode/Normal Lamp. Also you can play around with the 3D glasses brightness (Light-Normal-Dark)...darker will reduce the visibility of crosstalk.

I would make sure that Frame Creation is in Mode1 and 3D Motion Remaster is set to On.

As a last resort, you can try adjusting the parallax separation using Mode2 in 3D Monitor Viewing. I have found that you can reduce crosstalk in problem scenes, but it will only cause it to crop up in other scenes that were not a problem before.
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post #996 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

When I pause 3D, it stays in 3D.
A good disk for test patterns is DVE HD Basics Blu-ray.
I believe that 3D ghosting is caused mainly by the mastering of the content. That's only an opinion...I have not had a chance to compare a given bad scene on any other 3D equipment. It just seems to me that the extreme parallax settings in certain scenes exceed the capabilities of the equipment to handle it. For example, in Kung Fu Panda 2 there's a scene showing the landscape of the city where the evil peacock lives. The towers in that scene exhibit horrible crosstalk...it looks like double images. Yet these towers are supposed to be far away in the distance...there should be almost no parallax in them as far as I'm concerned. This is a mastering error IMO.
Unfortunately, the brighter you make the image, the more ghosting/crosstalk becomes visible. You can try finding a happy medium by playing 3D in Normal Mode/Normal Lamp instead of Dynamic Mode/Normal Lamp. Also you can play around with the 3D glasses brightness (Light-Normal-Dark)...darker will reduce the visibility of crosstalk.
I would make sure that Frame Creation is in Mode1 and 3D Motion Remaster is set to On.
As a last resort, you can try adjusting the parallax separation using Mode2 in 3D Monitor Viewing. I have found that you can reduce crosstalk in problem scenes, but it will only cause it to crop up in other scenes that were not a problem before.

Another scene that looks ugly is the one on TinTin 3D, the chapter when he finds the scroll hidden in the Unicorn model. There is a close up of metal case in which the scroll is stored in which you can see a lot of ghosting.


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post #997 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post

How the auto-sensing works while you are watching movies like The Dark Knight and/or The Dark Knight Rises?


I think the results were mixed.

While the projector changes between settings very quickly (the actual change), it will wait about 10-15 seconds before finally deciding that the aspect ratio has changed. I think this is on purpose to prevent excessive changes when it shouldn't or the aspect change was very brief.

For some scenes it worked well (for extended scenes in aspect ratio), but for others when the movie switches frequently, the projector would often finally change the aspect ratio right around the time where the movie did as well and then change back. That, or some of the scenes were so short, that it never changed the zoom settings.

If we watch any of the batman movies again, we will probably disable the auto aspect feature and just leave it zoomed into 2.35 and let it spill over for the IMAX scenes.

It was definitely a mixed bag.

For less frequent aspect ratio changes, it works VERY well.


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post #998 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by alinor View Post

I am looking for positive confirmation from anyone who has been able to setup the lens memory for the different aspect ratios while ALSO having the projector ceiling mounted above the screen or not dead center vertically. I have read through this entire thread and also gone through the couple of explanations on how to setup to two memory slots for scope and 16:9, easy enough. I have also seen a couple people's post that seem to hint or guess that it needs to be within the screen area to begin with. When I test things, it seems to only work for me when I don't use the manual lens shift at all and leave that in the default center.
So when I mount to the ceiling (projector is level) it is shooting near the top 12 inches of the screen. I of course need to bring the image down using the manual shift at this point. (This seems like that would be a common case for many with a ceiling mount). Once this image is shifted, trying to keep a constant height while switching from one aspect doesn't seem attainable through the zoom feature alone. The image will shift vertically every time. The other non manual adjustments do not get close enough to tweak it back. So, I am guessing for everyone who has this working, you are shooting your projector straight on and not using the manual shift? Does that seem right? Either that or I am doing something wrong big time. eek.gif Anyone have more first hand experience with the boundaries on this setup?


My projector is mounted with the center of the lens at approximately 6 inches below the top of the screen frame. I have 16:9 and 2.35 lens memory settings and it works beautifully. The projector is near the center of the screen horizontally.

It definitely took some trial and error, but I eventually got it. I had to switch back and forth multiple times between 16:9 and 2.35:1 material (saving the memory each time) to get it just right. It probably took me about 30-45 minutes to get it just right.

Most of the adjustments were made using the lens shift joystick. I also used the digital horizontal and vertical picture adjustments and matting as well, but more for fine tuning.


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post #999 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

I think the results were mixed.
While the projector changes between settings very quickly (the actual change), it will wait about 10-15 seconds before finally deciding that the aspect ratio has changed. I think this is on purpose to prevent excessive changes when it shouldn't or the aspect change was very brief.
For some scenes it worked well (for extended scenes in aspect ratio), but for others when the movie switches frequently, the projector would often finally change the aspect ratio right around the time where the movie did as well and then change back. That, or some of the scenes were so short, that it never changed the zoom settings.
If we watch any of the batman movies again, we will probably disable the auto aspect feature and just leave it zoomed into 2.35 and let it spill over for the IMAX scenes.
It was definitely a mixed bag.
For less frequent aspect ratio changes, it works VERY well.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to provide your input on this.

Good thing is there are not a lot of movies sporting this type of dual aspect ratio and therefore, you will enjoy your 2.45:1 screen without problem. I read a bit about that particular situation on TDK movie and recently on TDKR, before buying my screen. So, as a starting point, I decided to pull the trigger on an inexpensive 16:9 screen.

But, I'm still hoping in the near future to buy a 2.45:1 fixed screen. But, I first I need to change my mind set up on the black bars on the sides. You see, I'm totally fine with the black bars on top/bottom of the screen (after many years of watching movies on letterbox). So, going back to black bars on the sides is like deja-vu from the 4:3 to 16:9 aspect ratio transition..............tongue.gif


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post #1000 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by alinor View Post

Pogal:
Thanks, however, my issue doesn't seem to be along the horizontal, but just the vertical. Having the bars left/right is fine when switching and aligns accordingly. For the vertical, I can start with the 2:35 using both manual and digital adjustment and be fine. Once I switch to 16:9, I can't zoom adjust only to the constant height and keep it on screen. I have to use the manual lens shift again. Same if I start with 16:9. Both the top and bottom edges will move position, not allowing me to set what I want for CIH.
On your celing mount, can I ask where your lens is positioned in relation to your screen? How far from the top? Did you use the manual shift to move up and down at all, or is that still in the default center?

The centre of the lens is 16" from the ceiling and approx 6" off centre. Remember to only use the projector digital move horizontal and vertical for the 16:9 adjustment as well as zoom. I originally had the top and bottom masked at 100% but found it cropped too much off the image but could fill the 2:35 screen (152") with a 16:9 image, cropped of course. My 8000 is 15' from the screen.

Hope this helps?
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post #1001 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post

Thanks a lot for taking the time to provide your input on this.
Good thing is there are not a lot of movies sporting this type of dual aspect ratio and therefore, you will enjoy your 2.45:1 screen without problem. I read a bit about that particular situation on TDK movie and recently on TDKR, before buying my screen. So, as a starting point, I decided to pull the trigger on an inexpensive 16:9 screen.
But, I'm still hoping in the near future to buy a 2.45:1 fixed screen. But, I first I need to change my mind set up on the black bars on the sides. You see, I'm totally fine with the black bars on top/bottom of the screen (after many years of watching movies on letterbox). So, going back to black bars on the sides is like deja-vu from the 4:3 to 16:9 aspect ratio transition..............tongue.gif

I gave it a whirl as well with the same results / conclusions as Jamis. I would probably not want this changing on me, the delay was just a big odd. I timed quite a few screens and also noticed that it depended on which way you were going. So watching scope and switching to 16:9 took about 5-6 seconds. Going back the other way took 15-22 seconds. So, though it technically worked with the 8000, not sure you would want it on. It is kind of cool at the start of the movies though, where the menus (for the couple I tried) were basically in 16:9 and then switch to scope when the movie starts. Kind of nice.
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post #1002 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pogal View Post

The centre of the lens is 16" from the ceiling and approx 6" off centre. Remember to only use the projector digital move horizontal and vertical for the 16:9 adjustment as well as zoom. I originally had the top and bottom masked at 100% but found it cropped too much off the image but could fill the 2:35 screen (152") with a 16:9 image, cropped of course. My 8000 is 15' from the screen.
Hope this helps?

Thanks to both you and Jamis for the info. I'll play some more and try and figure out exactly where the boundary is to where it stops working. I don't have anything really fixed yet, so I can move things around and report back. I am also wondering if the amount you are zooming on your saved/starting view matters at all. Thanks again.
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post #1003 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alinor View Post

I gave it a whirl as well with the same results / conclusions as Jamis. I would probably not want this changing on me, the delay was just a big odd. I timed quite a few screens and also noticed that it depended on which way you were going. So watching scope and switching to 16:9 took about 5-6 seconds. Going back the other way took 15-22 seconds. So, though it technically worked with the 8000, not sure you would want it on. It is kind of cool at the start of the movies though, where the menus (for the couple I tried) were basically in 16:9 and then switch to scope when the movie starts. Kind of nice.

Wow.......15-22 seconds!! Man, that is a lot!

Thanks for timing this for all of us. I might help others still wondering on buying a 2.35:1 vs a 16:9 screen.

Any chance for you to load a video of the 8000 in action switching aspect ratios? I know, I know I'm asking a lot.........but hey, I have to give it a try...........wink.gif


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post #1004 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 07:15 PM
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Got mine and wow, right out the box the picture was awesome on a plain old white basement wall. Can't wait to finish the room now and get it setup. Question though, is there a way to check or reset the manual lens shift back to center? My 17 month old grabbed the joystick and moved it. I think I put it back to center, but can't figure out how to check for sure. It's not set up, just sitting on a box now. Thanks!


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post #1005 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

I needed an easy way to charge, store and keep safe all the 3D glasses at once.
So I used a rackmount cable management D-ring from Monoprice. I had plenty of space left over in my Patch Panel cabinet in the theater so it worked out great.
I used this 10 port USB hub and a power supply.

Then routed all the cables up to the D-rings.

I only plan on stocking seven 3D glasses, but I could easily hold 10 with this sytem if not more. It's nice to be able to charge, store and keep the glasses protected all at the same time.
Thought this might be helpful to other's with 3D glasses.
That usb hub also allows me to charge my remote and PS3 remote in the same cabinet.

Great idea!! Thanks for posting!


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post #1006 of 3597 Old 01-08-2013, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post

Wow.......15-22 seconds!! Man, that is a lot!
Thanks for timing this for all of us. I might help others still wondering on buying a 2.35:1 vs a 16:9 screen.
Any chance for you to load a video of the 8000 in action switching aspect ratios? I know, I know I'm asking a lot.........but hey, I have to give it a try...........wink.gif

If it helps, I'm willing to pitch in. I'll try and see if i can do that this weekend. I can probably try and shoot another example showing what happens when you mount above the screen as well.
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post #1007 of 3597 Old 01-09-2013, 07:50 AM
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I posted a inquiry a bit back about screen size and got some good feedback. I'd like to reiterate the temporary result of upgrading the size of my screen from 8Ft wide to 10FT wide case there is anyone considering a change.
Like a lot of owners here I upgraded my first projector form the 2000U to the 8000U and thought this was a good time to change screen size.

My first concern was the brightness and clarity the second is the black level. I did what any and all of us would and propped my new one in front of the old one temporarily blocking off the front speakers.
Right away I zoomed and focused the picture and found myself at the end of the zoom function. Man a close one,but remember when I permanently install on the back wall I will gain some zoom adjustment.

To my surprise the brightness changed the least and as expected the clarity dropped off moderately. To sum things up this change has improved the Home Theater more than any other single upgrade by a lot.
If I had to post a con it would be fuddling around with the focus.

I know I never gave much info on the screen (probable good for another thread) but the two screens are of similar gain. Lastly anyone considering upgrading screens keep in mind it has to fit through a door. In my case it cleared by only one inch!
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post #1008 of 3597 Old 01-09-2013, 08:07 AM
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Got mine a few days ago, i'm really happy of it! It's my first projector, and i will have to wait till saturday so that i can setup it properly. For now, i have only a question. How do you think my convergence to be, should i be worried about it/return the projector? I can't notice it from my viewing distance, but i think that it's there.


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post #1009 of 3597 Old 01-09-2013, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alinor View Post

If it helps, I'm willing to pitch in. I'll try and see if i can do that this weekend. I can probably try and shoot another example showing what happens when you mount above the screen as well.

Thanks alinor!

If you can do that, it will be highly appreciated.


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post #1010 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 02:55 AM
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Just purchased mine. Have to wait for a week for it to come in from the states. frown.gif
My first ever projector purchase, my 50" samsung screen wasn't cutting it anymore...
Setting it up in my bedroom. Max throw of 3 to 3.2m. So need a screen size of 100"-110".
Wondering if its better to go with a 2.35 screen or a full sized 16:9...
Hows the performance with sport viewing. Good to see so many people own the product, yet so little videos of this product on Youtube..
Disappointed a bit.
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post #1011 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 03:28 AM
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Quick ?. When setting up my screen memory I started by usint 16x9 image and fitting it on screen, then with 2.35. Most people on this board seemed to do it the opposite way. Any advantage to doing it that way.
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post #1012 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cedivad View Post

Got mine a few days ago, i'm really happy of it! It's my first projector, and i will have to wait till saturday so that i can setup it properly. For now, i have only a question. How do you think my convergence to be, should i be worried about it/return the projector? I can't notice it from my viewing distance, but i think that it's there.

Cedivad - I'd probably stick with what you have. I've had a string of bad luck with this projector and am on my third unit. The first one had convergence that was off by about 4-5 pixels. The second one had convergence that was off by about 1 pixel but with perfect uniformity. The only problem was that it had a few stuck pixels (on blue). The third's convergence is off by about 2 pixels and has slight uniformity issues on the right half of the screen. Unless I'm highly unlucky, I'd say that the typical margin of error for convergence should be around 1-3px off; you're on the better end of that range! Honestly, I would've stuck with the second one (with the 1px-off convergence, like you) but I HATE dead pixels!
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post #1013 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgapt View Post

Quick ?. When setting up my screen memory I started by usint 16x9 image and fitting it on screen, then with 2.35. Most people on this board seemed to do it the opposite way. Any advantage to doing it that way.

I found if you have a 2.35 screen, starting with the 2.35 picture first was easier...since you need to fill that screen anyways. It allows you to get it centered perfectly.

Unless you want to break out a ruler, it's impossible to tell if the 16x9 image is perfectly centered on a 2.35 screen.

Mario


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post #1014 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 10:19 AM
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PIcked up my AE8000 from HT.ca just before the holidays (got the glasses and spare bulb thrown in).

I did some quick calibration using WOW and my own disc. Wow- this PJ is awesome. I do not have a complete cave and we like a bit of ambient light (like from the fireplace) and it is plenty bright and crisp.

3D is fab. Watched all of Ice Age 4 w no issues. I have only seen crosstalk on a Sony demo clip of two guys fencing where there is EXTREME 3D of the foil hovering right in your face. This is all un-tweaked config.

Potato Cod scene works flawlessly cool.gif

PJ is on a shelf.
Throwing 18.5ft
125" Cinemascope screen / 100" widescreen
DIY screen with AT Seymour XD

Love it.

... Andy

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post #1015 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 10:21 AM
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What do you think of this problem? My unit has bad focus uniformity/sharpness/focus in the right side of projection, being more proeminent in the left-lower end. The pictures bellow are not perfect but can give a idea of the problem.

The unit is on the celiing and it's not centralized on screen. I'm using horizontal and vertical lens shift.

I did make various tests with many lens shift positions, angling the projector towards and backwards from the screen, etc. I found that aligning the projector at the center of the screen gives a better focuses image, as expected, but the lower sharpness in the same area continues. Using less lens shift can make things a little better but far from what i would like.

If i use the projector in a table, the lower sharpness areas shifts to the right, upper-right corner.

Seeing real material it's difficult to see the lower sharpness, but i know that's there. I could send the projector to my seller. He says will turn my projector to the Panasonic tecnhical repair. In the worst case he would send me a new unit. But i have to send the projector to another state in my country, and because the seller is from a ebay-like site, all this operation can give me great headache.



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post #1016 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

When I pause 3D, it stays in 3D.

A good disk for test patterns is DVE HD Basics Blu-ray.

I believe that 3D ghosting is caused mainly by the mastering of the content.

First, some movies switch to 2D when you pause them. Some do not. e.g. The Avengers 3D switches to 2D when paused.

Second, I've never personally seen a movie where ghosting is caused by the mastering of the content. Not once. Not saying it's not possible, but I've never seen it.

Third, the PT-AE8000U appears to be as flawed as the PT-AE7000U in terms of crosstalk. And don't even get me started on color uniformity....
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post #1017 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgapt View Post

Quick ?. When setting up my screen memory I started by usint 16x9 image and fitting it on screen, then with 2.35. Most people on this board seemed to do it the opposite way. Any advantage to doing it that way.

See this video about how to set/use the Lens Memory feature:



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post #1018 of 3597 Old 01-10-2013, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonSuave View Post

Cedivad - I'd probably stick with what you have. I've had a string of bad luck with this projector and am on my third unit. The first one had convergence that was off by about 4-5 pixels. The second one had convergence that was off by about 1 pixel but with perfect uniformity. The only problem was that it had a few stuck pixels (on blue). The third's convergence is off by about 2 pixels and has slight uniformity issues on the right half of the screen. Unless I'm highly unlucky, I'd say that the typical margin of error for convergence should be around 1-3px off; you're on the better end of that range! Honestly, I would've stuck with the second one (with the 1px-off convergence, like you) but I HATE dead pixels!
Thank you for your tip, really useful.
Is there anyone else that have experiences on this? Is your projector with a perfect convergence or what? Thank you.
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post #1019 of 3597 Old 01-11-2013, 10:42 AM
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I've been told this unit is supposed to support 4K, I cant find anything in the manual or settings to support this. I think i've been lied to...... Can anyone either confirm or deny this?
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post #1020 of 3597 Old 01-11-2013, 12:09 PM
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from what I have read, Sony is the only projector manufacturer who is currently considering a 4k.projector.
and they are $$$.

wouldn't be surprised I'd panny comes out with one in the next couple of years

the 8k is not a 4k projecter
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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