Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP > Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version)
235's Avatar 235 08:43 PM 03-04-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Just to be clear...

I'm suggesting using the physical LENS SHIFT LEVER on the front to set the top of 2.35 image first and not using the v-shift in the menu.

Yup, that's what I understood/tried.

235's Avatar 235 08:47 PM 03-04-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

My pj is level and plumb. No tilt whatsoever. Keystone is at zero. Maybe a couple mm of overscan at the most. Don't know how else to say it. It does work for me with the center of my lens 2" higher than the top of the screen. Don't know what the threshold is for max mounting height. Might be a good topic for Panasonic tech support.
If you are right at or just above, then you might be ok. The center of the lens on my 8000 is 2" above the top of my screen. By using a combination of the joystick and v-area position in the lens menu, I have saved lens settings that allow me to take advantage of the automatic zoom for 2.35 content.

Thanks GWCR, I wish I knew how you got it to work. If you have a couple minutes to try this I would appreciate it:

1) Feed a 16:9 source to PJ
2) Load your 16:9 saved lens memory
3) Zoom using the lens menu (not the saved lens memory) so that your image becomes approx the width of your 235 screen
4) At this point do you have any gap from the top of the screen to the top of your 16:9 image?

Thx!
marcusfenix905's Avatar marcusfenix905 09:43 PM 03-04-2013
hey im currently interested in purchasing the 8K. Does anybody have an insight to how well it works with gaming? I play a little bit of FPS but mostly fighting and sports games. Any info is appreciated. I was gonna go with the JVC DLAX35 until I found it it was very noticeable, Im hoping that is not the case here. smile.gif
AnnapolisSony's Avatar AnnapolisSony 07:22 AM 03-05-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyjobber1 View Post

Panasonic is great to deal with the projector guys knew exactly what to ask me and understood what we on AVS Forum are looking for in quality. I called on my own because i believed that i could describe it best.
The number I got was 855-772-8324 and Vincent was my tech. Vincent got my photos to his supervisor the same day and had an RMA to Proj. People the next day.
I got the best service that one can expect. You should get the same.....Good Luck

Hearing feedback like this just makes me feel even better about going with the Panny 8000. Very important to me to have the customer service behind my PJ. I will most likely be purchasing mine thru Project People as well...
rstahl's Avatar rstahl 04:08 PM 03-05-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

How do you get away without any keystone adjustment if your PJ is angled downward and your screen is hanging straight?
Well since you asked I'm not really sure! I did have the Panasonic AE2000 with a smaller screen (aprox. 40"x 96") hanging lower than my current 54"x 120" When I upgraded to my new 8000 I noticed the keystone changed from -2 to -1. Then I upgraded to a larger screen which is much closer to the ceiling. Then after three adjustment I noticed the wall wasn't really strait. So I'm not really sure where things went astray.
GWCR's Avatar GWCR 05:46 PM 03-05-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Thanks GWCR, I wish I knew how you got it to work. If you have a couple minutes to try this I would appreciate it:

1) Feed a 16:9 source to PJ
2) Load your 16:9 saved lens memory
3) Zoom using the lens menu (not the saved lens memory) so that your image becomes approx the width of your 235 screen
4) At this point do you have any gap from the top of the screen to the top of your 16:9 image?

Thx!
235, I won't have time to get in the HT for a few days, but here is a POST in this thread from HMenke that I used when I was setting up. Don't know if you've seen it, but it may prove helpful.

When I can get in the HT, I'll see if I can answer your other question.
GWCR's Avatar GWCR 07:19 PM 03-05-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Quote:
Thanks GWCR, I wish I knew how you got it to work. If you have a couple minutes to try this I would appreciate it:

1) Feed a 16:9 source to PJ
2) Load your 16:9 saved lens memory
3) Zoom using the lens menu (not the saved lens memory) so that your image becomes approx the width of your 235 screen
4) At this point do you have any gap from the top of the screen to the top of your 16:9 image?

Thx!
235, I won't have time to get in the HT for a few days, but here is a POST in this thread from HMenke that I used when I was setting up. Don't know if you've seen it, but it may prove helpful.

When I can get in the HT, I'll see if I can answer your other question.
The more I think about it, I don't need to get in there and turn it on to give you an answer. Here is what happens. The 16:9 image fills the height of the screen and has pillar boxes on the sides. When the image changes to 2.35:1 (ie from a blu-ray menu screen to the actual movie), the 2.35 image is basically centered on the screen with the pillar boxes on the sides, and letterboxes top and bottom within the 16:9 space. Once the 8000 recognizes the 2.35 source the image "snaps" up to the top of the screen (from my v-area position adjustment), and zooms out to fill the screen.
GWCR's Avatar GWCR 07:40 PM 03-05-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

The more I think about it, I don't need to get in there and turn it on to give you an answer. Here is what happens. The 16:9 image fills the height of the screen and has pillar boxes on the sides. When the image changes to 2.35:1 (ie from a blu-ray menu screen to the actual movie), the 2.35 image is basically centered on the screen with the pillar boxes on the sides, and letterboxes top and bottom within the 16:9 space. Once the 8000 recognizes the 2.35 source the image "snaps" up to the top of the screen (from my v-area position adjustment), and zooms out to fill the screen.
Yeah, I know I'm quoting myself, but wanted to clarify one point. Make sure you are using the "v-area position" setting in the Lens menu, and not the "v-position" setting in the Position menu. Two different functions.
235's Avatar 235 07:57 PM 03-05-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

The more I think about it, I don't need to get in there and turn it on to give you an answer. Here is what happens. The 16:9 image fills the height of the screen and has pillar boxes on the sides. When the image changes to 2.35:1 (ie from a blu-ray menu screen to the actual movie), the 2.35 image is basically centered on the screen with the pillar boxes on the sides, and letterboxes top and bottom within the 16:9 space. Once the 8000 recognizes the 2.35 source the image "snaps" up to the top of the screen (from my v-area position adjustment), and zooms out to fill the screen.

Thanks GWCR, I did see those posts by Hmenke. From the steps I outlined above I was hoping to determine if the zoom action drops your image and then the v-area shift raises it......or whether your zooming action does not drop your image at all. I realize you probably have lots of other things to do without me adding things to your list but if ever you do get around to it one day let me know. Thx


edit: Yup, using menu: LENS Control, V-Area Position
RickR15's Avatar RickR15 11:53 AM 03-06-2013
Hey Guys,
My lens center is also about 3-4 inches higher then the screen. When I set mine up I had to use all of the electronic vertical shift. I also had to tilt the projector down slightly. I set my keystone to -1 to compensate. I did not notice any change in focus or convergence from the tilt or correction. My auto switching now works flawlessly. Before I made the adjustments the image would shift down when zooming to 2:35. biggrin.gif
Rick
235's Avatar 235 06:30 PM 03-06-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickR15 View Post

Hey Guys,
My lens center is also about 3-4 inches higher then the screen. When I set mine up I had to use all of the electronic vertical shift. I also had to tilt the projector down slightly. I set my keystone to -1 to compensate. I did not notice any change in focus or convergence from the tilt or correction. My auto switching now works flawlessly. Before I made the adjustments the image would shift down when zooming to 2:35. biggrin.gif
Rick

That sounds consistent with what I have seen. I was curious about how much keystone adjustments hurt the picture quality but it sounds like you found no loss in performance. Is that what others have noticed with keystone?
pdxbob's Avatar pdxbob 11:05 PM 03-06-2013
(New here. Please excuse any breach in protocol in asking this question. I've searched the forum, but can't find anything that addresses my question.)

I'm looking to replace my Sanyo PLV-Z4 with the Panasonic PT-AE8000U, and I have a question about brightness. My theater is completely light controlled. The projector is mounted 14' 9" from a 118" (diagonal) Carada Brilliant White screen (1.4 gain). There are three rows of seats which view from 13, 19, and 25 feet. But, the Projector Calculator Pro at Projector Central indicates that the image is too bright. And unfortunately, a REALLY bright screen will give me a headache.

So, my question is: Will there be enough control over the image (through Normal, ECO, REC709, or one of the Cinema modes, and/or the brightness control) to pull back the projector's brightness in 2D mode to make the image tolerable?
Xank's Avatar Xank 12:11 AM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxbob View Post

So, my question is: Will there be enough control over the image (through Normal, ECO, REC709, or one of the Cinema modes, and/or the brightness control) to pull back the projector's brightness in 2D mode to make the image tolerable?

I'm pretty sure protocol would call for your post to be exactly right where it is.

Short answer: yes, don't worry.

If that calculator is going by the advertised 2400 lumens, don't worry about it at all. Under normal circumstances you won't be anywhere near 2400 lumens. If you have the 8000 turned up all the way to max lumens, your picture will look like **** anyway.

If you start with REC709 mode and do a decent calibration, you'll probably end up with 600-700 lumens. Your throw distance, screen size, and seating distance all seem reasonable. My setup is 17' throw onto a 110" 1.1 gain screen with seating at 14'. Room is non-light controlled, looks great when the sun goes down. The snow in Art of Flight is kind of blinding, but that's pretty much how snow looks in real life.

If you want to tone it down further, switch the lamp to eco mode. If it's still too bright, welcome to the future, you gotta wear shades.
johnnynj's Avatar johnnynj 04:58 AM 03-07-2013
Getting ready to mount my new ae8000u from ceiling of my room that is 17’ long X 15’ wide X 8’ high and a 133" 16:9 screen.
Projector central suggest throw distance of 14' to 26'.
my question is what is better closer to 14' or at the rear of room at 17' ?
Xank's Avatar Xank 10:30 AM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnynj View Post

Getting ready to mount my new ae8000u from ceiling of my room that is 17’ long X 15’ wide X 8’ high and a 133" 16:9 screen.
Projector central suggest throw distance of 14' to 26'.
my question is what is better closer to 14' or at the rear of room at 17' ?

Pros of Closer:
- More baseline brightness

Pros of Farther:
- Less noise
- Potentially better focus and convergence uniformity
dkinion's Avatar dkinion 11:04 AM 03-07-2013
I'm confused. The spec sheet says that you should be able to mount the projector 2 feet above the top of the screen for a 120" diagonal screen and be able to use lens memory. It seem some are having a problem getting it to work with only being a few inches above the screen. I'm limited to how high I can mount my screen due to knee walls, so the top of the screen will be 2 feet down from an 8 foot ceiling. Trying to get the projector low enough while keeping the bottom sight line above the front row is giving me a headache. This is all on paper btw, just planning.
xeonicxpression's Avatar xeonicxpression 12:41 PM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyjobber1 View Post

Panasonic is great to deal with the projector guys knew exactly what to ask me and understood what we on AVS Forum are looking for in quality. I called on my own because i believed that i could describe it best.
The number I got was 855-772-8324 and Vincent was my tech. Vincent got my photos to his supervisor the same day and had an RMA to Proj. People the next day.
I got the best service that one can expect. You should get the same.....Good Luck

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't got around to calling Panasonic yet, but hopefully tomorrow I can. Thanks for the tip on taking pictures. I'll make sure to do that before I make the call.
johnnynj's Avatar johnnynj 01:23 PM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xank View Post


Pros of Closer:
- More baseline brightness

Pros of Farther:
- Less noise
- Potentially better focus and convergence uniformity



What would you choose for this projector ?This is my first projector !
Xank's Avatar Xank 01:37 PM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnynj View Post

What would you choose for this projector ?This is my first projector !

Mine is set up at 17'. But I didn't have a choice. If you have a choice, why not try both and see what you like?
235's Avatar 235 01:48 PM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkinion View Post

I'm confused. The spec sheet says that you should be able to mount the projector 2 feet above the top of the screen for a 120" diagonal screen and be able to use lens memory. It seem some are having a problem getting it to work with only being a few inches above the screen. I'm limited to how high I can mount my screen due to knee walls, so the top of the screen will be 2 feet down from an 8 foot ceiling. Trying to get the projector low enough while keeping the bottom sight line above the front row is giving me a headache. This is all on paper btw, just planning.
Can you point us to where you found this in Panasonic's docs?
dkinion's Avatar dkinion 04:32 PM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Can you point us to where you found this in Panasonic's docs?

Here is the link to download the spec file: https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae8kat6k/ae8kat6k_spec.html

There are three sections. One for 16:9, one for scope, and one if you will be doing both scope and 16:9 using lens memory. I called Panny support to get their input, what a joke, just said that if that's what it say then that's what it will do. I told the guy that it
appears that some people are having trouble getting it to work if the lens is above the screen height, but he didn't know anything about that.
235's Avatar 235 05:56 PM 03-07-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkinion View Post

Here is the link to download the spec file: https://eww.pavc.panasonic.co.jp/projector/extranet/main/products/ae8kat6k/ae8kat6k_spec.html

There are three sections. One for 16:9, one for scope, and one if you will be doing both scope and 16:9 using lens memory. I called Panny support to get their input, what a joke, just said that if that's what it say then that's what it will do. I told the guy that it
appears that some people are having trouble getting it to work if the lens is above the screen height, but he didn't know anything about that.

Yeah I remember seeing that chart. I think the focus of that chart has to do with throw distances but it does also refer to vertical offsets. It doesn't however specify whether or not achieving those vertical placement ranges require keystone adjustments. The very next page in their document mentions the maximum angle (30 degrees) with which the PJ can be installed. Maybe with a bit of trig someone could figure out if the vertical offset claimed in the table is solely due to the angling of the PJ (30 degrees).
Beeko's Avatar Beeko 04:08 AM 03-08-2013
Just my luck that my ae8000 arrives today and I'm laid up with full blown flu for the 3rd day running. Can't stand up straight so not a chance of ceiling mounting this puppy till at least tomorrow.
GWCR's Avatar GWCR 07:05 AM 03-08-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beeko View Post

Just my luck that my ae8000 arrives today and I'm laid up with full blown flu for the 3rd day running. Can't stand up straight so not a chance of ceiling mounting this puppy till at least tomorrow.
At least you'll be there to sign for the delivery...tongue.gif
ferbal's Avatar ferbal 10:36 AM 03-08-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xank View Post

Mine is set up at 17'. But I didn't have a choice. If you have a choice, why not try both and see what you like?

johnnynj
Putting the projector at the end of the room = no cables on the ceiling, but as Xank said, you will lose some brightness. I would go with this option.
235's Avatar 235 11:02 AM 03-08-2013
My PJ is about 8" above the screen at a 17' throw. I can't get the zooming to work between 16:9 and 2.35:1 unless I use keystone adjustments. However with the approach below I'm thinking pulling the bottom of the screen forward about 2" may not be noticeable and avoids using keystone adjustments. Thoughts?


fcaico's Avatar fcaico 11:49 AM 03-08-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

My PJ is about 8" above the screen at a 17' throw. I can't get the zooming to work between 16:9 and 2.35:1 unless I use keystone adjustments. However with the approach below I'm thinking pulling the bottom of the screen forward about 2" may not be noticeable and avoids using keystone adjustments. Thoughts?

Not sure, But I would think that you would see the perspective difference as much as you would see the slight keystone. I would just use the projector's keystone adjustment. I doubt that you will see any noticeable impact on the image quality.
andymo's Avatar andymo 01:20 PM 03-08-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

My PJ is about 8" above the screen at a 17' throw. I can't get the zooming to work between 16:9 and 2.35:1 unless I use keystone adjustments. However with the approach below I'm thinking pulling the bottom of the screen forward about 2" may not be noticeable and avoids using keystone adjustments. Thoughts?


From you diagram maybe you could build a shelf so that the PJ is just in the screen space. I have a 12" riser with a couch as well, but with a hole in the wall instead of shelf. If the rear seats are forward just a nudge, the shelf will be mostly over the back of the seats (no head clunking risk)

Or slide everything (screen and all) 12" to the right to make room for the shelf

Just a thot
ferbal's Avatar ferbal 01:54 PM 03-08-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcaico View Post

Not sure, But I would think that you would see the perspective difference as much as you would see the slight keystone. I would just use the projector's keystone adjustment. I doubt that you will see any noticeable impact on the image quality.

When you use the keystone correction you are losing pixels and it's impossible to achieve 1:1 pixel mapping.

You are forcing the PJ to downscale the image, then you are losing definition. This can be see easily with one-pixel computer-generated letters.
235's Avatar 235 09:27 PM 03-08-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by andymo View Post

From you diagram maybe you could build a shelf so that the PJ is just in the screen space. I have a 12" riser with a couch as well, but with a hole in the wall instead of shelf. If the rear seats are forward just a nudge, the shelf will be mostly over the back of the seats (no head clunking risk)

Or slide everything (screen and all) 12" to the right to make room for the shelf

Just a thot

Actually my diagram has stripped out my soffit plans (lots more details in my build thread). I believe I would have room to drop the PJ and mount it just below my soffit and avoid the head clunking. I would prefer however to keep it higher up and tucked away nicely in the soffit if the picture quality doesn't suffer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fcaico View Post

Not sure, But I would think that you would see the perspective difference as much as you would see the slight keystone. I would just use the projector's keystone adjustment. I doubt that you will see any noticeable impact on the image quality.

Good point, maybe I'll ensure the screen is mounted in such a way to allow easy tilting and if it looks odd then I could use the keystone correction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ferbal View Post

When you use the keystone correction you are losing pixels and it's impossible to achieve 1:1 pixel mapping.
You are forcing the PJ to downscale the image, then you are losing definition. This can be see easily with one-pixel computer-generated letters.

So you have found your image suffers with keystone? Do you think the tilting of the screen would be a better approach?
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