Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 48 - AVS Forum
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post #1411 of 3508 Old 03-17-2013, 06:58 AM
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Hi folks
Also own this great projector, but I think I´m being victim of flicker. It only happens on bright pictures and especially on still bright pictures after one minute or so. I also can notice a bit on projector's "blue" screen. I have switched sockets but didnt work. Take a look in the following video I´ve posted on youtube and tell me what you think!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpOd6WDwp08
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post #1412 of 3508 Old 03-17-2013, 08:40 AM
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Anyone have any specific movies they use to calibrate the 3D on this projector?

I watched Life of Pi last night and I immediately had to change the 3D settings because I saw a lot of duplicate edges. And it seemed that prior to this it was looking fine on the previous 3D thing I watched.

Or is it just the nature of the beast that you had to adjust per movie?
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post #1413 of 3508 Old 03-17-2013, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pabrognara View Post

Hi folks
Also own this great projector, but I think I´m being victim of flicker. It only happens on bright pictures and especially on still bright pictures after one minute or so. I also can notice a bit on projector's "blue" screen. I have switched sockets but didnt work. Take a look in the following video I´ve posted on youtube and tell me what you think!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpOd6WDwp08

I can't see any flicker in the video, but I believe you. You might want to go into the service menu and adjust the flicker setting on each color R, G. and B.
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post #1414 of 3508 Old 03-17-2013, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelahess View Post

Searched but not finding a real answer to this question:

How do you setup a Harmony remote to switch inputs properly?

I can only get it to switch to HDMI 1 (maybe it starts there?)

It won't switch to HDMI 2 where my PS3 is plugged in. I see that you need to hit the source button twice to actually get it to switch, then it goes sequentially through them. I'm guessing it doesn't have discreet commands for each input?

Anyone have luck doing this without rs-232 which is not an option for me?

Please see my post # 254 on the Harmony Touch Forum...

smile.gif
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post #1415 of 3508 Old 03-17-2013, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pogal View Post

Please see my post # 254 on the Harmony Touch Forum...

smile.gif

Harmony Touch Forum....here or at Logitech? Not finding anything from you on this forum.
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post #1416 of 3508 Old 03-17-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

I can't see any flicker in the video, but I believe you. You might want to go into the service menu and adjust the flicker setting on each color R, G. and B.

Hi
I´ve tried to change some values at service menu, but seems nothing has changed. I´ve posted another youtube vid pls check below. From what I´ve noticed the Iris noise is heard and after 13 sec of the video the noise changes a little bit and I start to see picture flickering. Note this picture is very bright and seems camera cant capture that effect.!! Is that possible I can be flicker sensitive?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8ENnTTuFDw
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post #1417 of 3508 Old 03-19-2013, 06:50 AM
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Hi Folks,

I'm a proud owner of PT-AT6000E (European version) and for the last couple of months I have been looking for an ambient light screen.

I have decided to go with DNP, but can't decide whether I should opt for 08-85 or 23-23 material.

Throw distance will be at 13 ft. on either a 120" or 110" screen.

My goal is to be able to watch TV with controlled daylight or ambient room light. As I have complete light control I prefer to turn the living room to a bat-cave for movies or 3D.

If anyone has experience with DNP screens with Panasonic PT 8000/6000, I would like to get your insight on below questions.

1) At present with a standard white wall I can only enjoy 3D on Normal mode. How would 0.8 gain 08-85 material perform for 3D?
2) Would on 23-23 material picture "pop" too much in a bat-cave environment even on Eco Mode / Rec709?

Everyone agrees ISF certified 08-85 is better in contrast and no-hotspotting, but I have a feeling 3D may suffer on it.

Any experience you can share with DNP/Panny pairing with either 08-85 or 23-23, 2D/3D is highly appreciated!
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post #1418 of 3508 Old 03-19-2013, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

I would go for it immediately...doesn't take very long and the improvement will be immediate.

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Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Thanks HMenke. I've used that disc on my LED, and it was pretty easy. I'll give it a go. Worst thing that happens is I do it again in a few months I guess...

I took your advice and went through the basic calibration on the Disney WOW disk last night. Calibrated in rec709 mode and eco lamp. I found most settings (brightness, contrast, sharpness) didn't need much adjustment in my HT. Only a tic or two. Bumped the color up 10 and re-focused. Then we watched How to Train Your Dragon and The Avengers. Even with the modest adjustments, there was a very noticeable difference. The picture looks absolutely fantastic to me. When I get more time, I'll go through the intermediate calibration, but even the basic makes me very happy!
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post #1419 of 3508 Old 03-19-2013, 05:41 PM
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Hi guys, just bought an Ae-8000 and was wondering if anyone who had sent in their rebate in January has received their 3d glasses yet? Really starting to wonder about my rebate...
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post #1420 of 3508 Old 03-20-2013, 12:55 AM
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Most movies I've seen have very little crosstalk, and a few other movies have had more crosstalk than others. In general, I try to view 3D as bright as possible, but as quiet as possible; so I always try to set/do the following with my projector for 3D: (1) This projector definitely exhibits more crosstalk if it's not warmed up. Depending the on lamp mode, it can take 15 minutes to 30 minutes for the projector to warm up. So I try to view all of the opening trailers, etc., or set my glasses to "Normal" or "Dark" during the the first part of the movie to lessen any crosstalk if there is any. (2) I usually set the lamp mode to Eco b/c I sit under my projector and the fan is audible in "Normal". A few times though, I've set to "Normal" if the picture was too dark, e.g. "Fright Night" :P (3) I usually try to set my glasses to "Light" to counteract the loss of brightness, but I will set the glasses to "Normal" if I see more crosstalk than normal, or if the picture is bright enough. "Dark" settings will probably exhibit the least amount of crosstalk. (4) Also b/c of the loss in brightness, I usually try to view with the brightest picture mode settings, e.g. Dynamic/Normal/Cinema 2. But the brightest settings with higher contrast can enhance/display more ghosting if there's any, e.g. Rec709, which is dimmer, will probably show less ghosting. (5) I sit straight ahead at eye level, which is ideal for 3D in general. But sitting at eye level might be difficult for those without raisers. If I do sit in the lower chairs and closer to the screen, 3D looks really awkward. Also, any slightly visible crosstalk is less visible the farther away you sit b/c you simply can't see it. smile.gif I think Panasonic recommends sitting back 3x the size of the screen, which I think is pretty far. I think I sit back 2x the size of my 119" screen. (6) I haven't really tested this out, but frame creation mode reduces crosstalk; the higher mode the better. But I usually view movies with frame creation off .

Also, another thing, I think, the movie itself is a factor. Some movies have more crosstalk than others. Dark objects, esp. small dark objects, against light backgrounds are prone to crosstalk, which is when I usually see it. Like in Top Gun, the small dark planes set against the sky always had crosstalk for me on the AE8000. Despicable Me, which was converted, had crosstalk with dark objects against light backgrounds, e.g. street lamps in the beginning scene. Usually stereographers/filmmakers keep high contrasting colors in mind b/c of crosstalk, but in some cases, it's unavoidable. smile.gif
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post #1421 of 3508 Old 03-20-2013, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason7 View Post

Hi guys, just bought an Ae-8000 and was wondering if anyone who had sent in their rebate in January has received their 3d glasses yet? Really starting to wonder about my rebate...

Did you check your status at http://www.panasonicconsumerrebates.com/ (under "Home Entertainment"). Once you get that date, add 8 weeks for the check and 10-12 weeks for the glasses.
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post #1422 of 3508 Old 03-20-2013, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bdfanatic View Post

Most movies I've seen have very little crosstalk, and a few other movies have had more crosstalk than others. In general, I try to view 3D as bright as possible, but as quiet as possible; so I always try to set/do the following with my projector for 3D: (1) This projector definitely exhibits more crosstalk if it's not warmed up. Depending the on lamp mode, it can take 15 minutes to 30 minutes for the projector to warm up. So I try to view all of the opening trailers, etc., or set my glasses to "Normal" or "Dark" during the the first part of the movie to lessen any crosstalk if there is any. (2) I usually set the lamp mode to Eco b/c I sit under my projector and the fan is audible in "Normal". A few times though, I've set to "Normal" if the picture was too dark, e.g. "Fright Night" :P (3) I usually try to set my glasses to "Light" to counteract the loss of brightness, but I will set the glasses to "Normal" if I see more crosstalk than normal, or if the picture is bright enough. "Dark" settings will probably exhibit the least amount of crosstalk. (4) Also b/c of the loss in brightness, I usually try to view with the brightest picture mode settings, e.g. Dynamic/Normal/Cinema 2. But the brightest settings with higher contrast can enhance/display more ghosting if there's any, e.g. Rec709, which is dimmer, will probably show less ghosting. (5) I sit straight ahead at eye level, which is ideal for 3D in general. But sitting at eye level might be difficult for those without raisers. If I do sit in the lower chairs and closer to the screen, 3D looks really awkward. Also, any slightly visible crosstalk is less visible the farther away you sit b/c you simply can't see it. smile.gifI think Panasonic recommends sitting back 3x the size of the screen, which I think is pretty far. I think I sit back 2x the size of my 119" screen. (6) I haven't really tested this out, but frame creation mode reduces crosstalk; the higher mode the better. But I usually view movies with frame creation off .

Also, another thing, I think, the movie itself is a factor. Some movies have more crosstalk than others. Dark objects, esp. small dark objects, against light backgrounds are prone to crosstalk, which is when I usually see it. Like in Top Gun, the small dark planes set against the sky always had crosstalk for me on the AE8000. Despicable Me, which was converted, had crosstalk with dark objects against light backgrounds, e.g. street lamps in the beginning scene. Usually stereographers/filmmakers keep high contrasting colors in mind b/c of crosstalk, but in some cases, it's unavoidable. smile.gif

My screen is 120" and I sit about 13 feet from it. I do have my settings in my projector set to 120' screen.

So I'm wondering if I set my projector to a 60" screen (if that is an option) if that will potentially have a better 3D effect, since 3 times 60" is 18 feet, which is closer to the 13 feet recommended by Panasonic than the 30 feet recommended by Panasonic for a 120" screen.

Anyone have any input on how changing the screen size can effect the 3D effect?
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post #1423 of 3508 Old 03-20-2013, 01:57 PM
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Oops, I looked at the manual again; the manual says the recommended viewing distance is at least 3 times the height of the screen. So, for my 119" screen, 14 1/2 feet and up, is the recommended distance. I think I sit around 15 to 16 feet back.

FYI, for 120" 16:9 screens, it says the minimum viewing distance is 11' 9" and the maximum is 23' 7". For 2.35:1, it's 12' 5" to 25'.
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post #1424 of 3508 Old 03-20-2013, 02:21 PM
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Got my rebate check yesterday which I mailed out on January 31 so only about 6 weeks. Hopefully the glasses come early too within the next couple of weeks...
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post #1425 of 3508 Old 03-20-2013, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdfanatic View Post

Did you check your status at http://www.panasonicconsumerrebates.com/ (under "Home Entertainment"). Once you get that date, add 8 weeks for the check and 10-12 weeks for the glasses.

Cool, Thank you. I did get the rebate several weeks ago. It looks like 12 weeks will put me towards the beginning of next month for the glasses. Fingers crossed! Thanks bdfanatic.
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Got my rebate check yesterday which I mailed out on January 31 so only about 6 weeks. Hopefully the glasses come early too within the next couple of weeks...

Thank you for the reply, It's nice to hear I'm not in this alone!
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post #1426 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 09:20 AM
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Anyone have their projectors connected to a PC? I'm trying to figure out why my projector looks so blurry/fuzzy and pixelated (almost like it's over sharpened) when it's connected to my HTPC via HDMI. I also use a Panasonic Plasma and my video output on the plasma is perfect. Everything is connected to a Yamaha RX-A800 receiver (dual hdmi out). For some reason it's like the projector doesn't like being connected to a computer.

I've done all the necessary checks on the pc to make sure it's set up correctly.

Set to RGB 4:4:4 output, no GPU Scaling, turned off all AMD video settings that can interfere with picture.
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post #1427 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

Anyone have their projectors connected to a PC? I'm trying to figure out why my projector looks so blurry/fuzzy and pixelated (almost like it's over sharpened) when it's connected to my HTPC via HDMI. I also use a Panasonic Plasma and my video output on the plasma is perfect. Everything is connected to a Yamaha RX-A800 receiver (dual hdmi out). For some reason it's like the projector doesn't like being connected to a computer.

I've done all the necessary checks on the pc to make sure it's set up correctly.

Set to RGB 4:4:4 output, no GPU Scaling, turned off all AMD video settings that can interfere with picture.

Are you using keystone correction or overscan?
Are you sending 1920x1080P @ 24 (23.976) or 60 Hz (not interlaced)?
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post #1428 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

my projector looks so blurry/fuzzy and pixelated (almost like it's over sharpened)

1. Could it be that it's over-sharpened? smile.gif Check the sharpness setting?

2. Also, what resolution are you putting out? 1920x1200 is a common computer resolution, which is slightly different from 1920x1080, and would end up being scaled by a 1080p display. Make sure you're on 1080p and not 1920x1200.

3. And to follow up on ferbal's comment, yes check that keystone and overscan are disabled on the projector, but computers often engage overscan correction themselves when they detect they're connected to a TV-like device instead of a computer monitor. You'll want to turn that off at the computer.

I did plug in a laptop to my PJ once to watch a video that was only available through Flash, and it seemed fine. I mean, it didn't look nearly as sharp as when that laptop is connected to a computer monitor or an LCD TV, but that was just the expected difference between projector and direct view. I mean, it looked the same as when it's connected to an Apple TV.
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post #1429 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferbal View Post

Are you using keystone correction or overscan?
Are you sending 1920x1080P @ 24 (23.976) or 60 Hz (not interlaced)?

Not using keystone correction or overscan on the projector and pc, and I'm projecting at 1080p resolution 60 hz for regular desktop and 24hz for 1080p blu-ray mkv rips in xbmc (using mpc-hc external player and madvr).

I've checked just about everything except some other suggestions I heard about online, putting a dvi cable into the pc, because some displays don't like being connected to a pc via hdmi. I will try that next.
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post #1430 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Xank View Post

1. Could it be that it's over-sharpened? smile.gif Check the sharpness setting?

2. Also, what resolution are you putting out? 1920x1200 is a common computer resolution, which is slightly different from 1920x1080, and would end up being scaled by a 1080p display. Make sure you're on 1080p and not 1920x1200.

3. And to follow up on ferbal's comment, yes check that keystone and overscan are disabled on the projector, but computers often engage overscan correction themselves when they detect they're connected to a TV-like device instead of a computer monitor. You'll want to turn that off at the computer.

I did plug in a laptop to my PJ once to watch a video that was only available through Flash, and it seemed fine. I mean, it didn't look nearly as sharp as when that laptop is connected to a computer monitor or an LCD TV, but that was just the expected difference between projector and direct view. I mean, it looked the same as when it's connected to an Apple TV.

1. That could be a possibility on the projector i guess. I messed around with the focus but that was about it on the projector.

2. I'm positive I'm putting out 1920x1080, but again the picture which is hard to explain doesn't look sharp at all. Also, all four corners of the projection seem to be really soft likes its way undersharpened in the corners and blurry also get pixelation when moving the mouse around on the screen or opening apps (looks like noise in the display). I'm not using scaling, and my desktop was put to 0% via the AMD CCC overscan menu.

3. never used keystone, and overscan is turned off.

I'm going to try another suggestion that some others online had which is to use a dvi-hdmi or vga-hdmi (with conversion adapter) cable since some pc's don't play well with certain displays when outputting via hdmi on the computer.

Would like to know if anyone else with a PT-AE8000u is using XBMC or similar HTPC app and having problems with their pc image not looking nearly as good as say a ps3 running the actual blu-ray (and all my movies are mkv rips no compression).
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post #1431 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 01:21 PM
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1. That could be a possibility on the projector i guess. I messed around with the focus but that was about it on the projector.

I think our ships passed here. I'm not talking about focus adjustments, you definitely want your focus to be as sharp as you can make it. I'm talking about a video processing setting that's literally called "Sharpness". Look for it in the picture menu. When turned up, it will introduce ringing artifacts. But, if you don't notice this on other sources like your PS3, then it's probably not the problem.

Actually what you're describing sounds like instead of directly outputting the desktop as a uncompressed raster data, your computer is taking your desktop, compressing it into an MPEG stream, and sending that to your projector (but it would have to decode it again, so I can't see how this would be the case). Video compression happening somewhere in the chain would be consistent with seeing pixelation around moving objects like the mouse cursor. For example, AirPlay mirroring on Macs does not send uncompressed raster data, it encodes to a compressed video stream which gets sent to the Apple TV for decoding and display. So, AirPlay mirroring will exhibit minor compressing artifacting and won't look as sharp and clear as directly plugging a Mac into HDMI.

It could be your AMD gfx card is doing something weird. Does the Radeon driver have video processing settings that can be turned off?

Showing us a picture might help.
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post #1432 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Xank View Post

I think our ships passed here. I'm not talking about focus adjustments, you definitely want your focus to be as sharp as you can make it. I'm talking about a video processing setting that's literally called "Sharpness". Look for it in the picture menu. When turned up, it will introduce ringing artifacts. But, if you don't notice this on other sources like your PS3, then it's probably not the problem.

Actually what you're describing sounds like instead of directly outputting the desktop as a uncompressed raster data, your computer is taking your desktop, compressing it into an MPEG stream, and sending that to your projector (but it would have to decode it again, so I can't see how this would be the case). Video compression happening somewhere in the chain would be consistent with seeing pixelation around moving objects like the mouse cursor. For example, AirPlay mirroring on Macs does not send uncompressed raster data, it encodes to a compressed video stream which gets sent to the Apple TV for decoding and display. So, AirPlay mirroring will exhibit minor compressing artifacting and won't look as sharp and clear as directly plugging a Mac into HDMI.

It could be your AMD gfx card is doing something weird. Does the Radeon driver have video processing settings that can be turned off?

Showing us a picture might help.

Yes the AMD CCC Control Panel has alot of settings that can be turn off. I turned off all settings as others have said it can mess with video settings from MadVR in MPC-HC. Yeah I'm lost pretty much trying to figure out why it's not looking right. At first I was thinking the HDMI cable could be giving a weak signal or something, but when I use the HTPC with my plasma 58" it works perfectly. I turned off all sharpening stuff on the pc and yeah I messed around with the image clarity thing on the projector and still the same.

Like you stated the mouse cursor or any moving items on the screen has pixelation around the item and the picture is just fuzzy, blurry, and pixelated in general. Thanks for your help. I appreciate. it.
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post #1433 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 01:48 PM
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I know the whole speel about Pansonic only accepting the rebate form from "Authorized Resellers".

I purchased my AE8000U from Amazon. Has anyone received the check and glasses who purchased from Amazon?

Would they accept it if the purchase receipt only showed Amazon as the seller, and not some 3rd party?
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post #1434 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 01:58 PM
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I know the whole speel about Pansonic only accepting the rebate form from "Authorized Resellers".

I purchased my AE8000U from Amazon. Has anyone received the check and glasses who purchased from Amazon?

Would they accept it if the purchase receipt only showed Amazon as the seller, and not some 3rd party?
Unfortunately they will not. Mine was purchased and fulfilled directly from Amazon. I fought that one with both Amazon and Panasonic directly. Panasonic basically said "Tough crap. They aren't an authorized reseller for the 8000. No rebate for you." Amazon, even after they confirmed that they told me in an online chat that they were an authorized Panasonic reseller (they are, just not for "business" products), said they couldn't do anything about it. They gave me a $20 credit for a future purchase. At the time of purchase, the price was about $150 lower than the authorized sellers, so I'm not bent out of shape about the $ rebate. Sure would have liked the glasses and warranty extension though...mad.gif. Oh well, my fault for being greedy. Lesson learned.

On the positive side, I absolutely LOVE the projector!! biggrin.gif
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post #1435 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 04:19 PM
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Hey all! I just got my PT-AE8000U projector about a week ago and I'm mostly enjoying it! But I've been having an issue lately and I wondered if anyone here could help. Whenever I watch SD channels coming from my computer (tv tuner + video card) in full screen mode on the projector, the image seems to drop (goes black) every 2-30 seconds for about 3 seconds and then comes back as if the projector lost the signal briefly. This only happens for SD channels (and some online videos), not HD channels or movies, and only in full screen mode (if it is windowed mode there is no problem. I am running a 25ft DVI cable with a HDMI adapter to the projector from the PC. I have tried all three HDMI inputs and they behave the same. Anyone have any advice on how to tackle this? Something in the settings I can do to help?

Otherwise loving the projector. :c)
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post #1436 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 05:54 PM
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Unfortunately they will not. Mine was purchased and fulfilled directly from Amazon. I fought that one with both Amazon and Panasonic directly. Panasonic basically said "Tough crap. They aren't an authorized reseller for the 8000. No rebate for you." Amazon, even after they confirmed that they told me in an online chat that they were an authorized Panasonic reseller (they are, just not for "business" products), said they couldn't do anything about it. They gave me a $20 credit for a future purchase. At the time of purchase, the price was about $150 lower than the authorized sellers, so I'm not bent out of shape about the $ rebate. Sure would have liked the glasses and warranty extension though...mad.gif. Oh well, my fault for being greedy. Lesson learned.

On the positive side, I absolutely LOVE the projector!! biggrin.gif


Thanks for this experience, I won't even bother.

As an Amazon Prime member, I purchase all of our personal and business items through them. For Panasonic not to honor the rebate is ridiculous..
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post #1437 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 07:05 PM
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Almost ready to pull the trigger on this one. Getting it from Projector People for March Madness.

Any real reasons not to get it?
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post #1438 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 07:43 PM
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Almost ready to pull the trigger on this one. Getting it from Projector People for March Madness.

Any real reasons not to get it?

I purchased mine from Project People as well. Really happy with the service provided and no issue whatsoever with my projector.

Only thing to keep in mind is the several weeks that you will have to wait to receive your rebate (check first and then the 3D glasses). But, it is all worth it at the end........really impressive picture, rebate check, a pair of glasses and one extra year of warranty.

Cheers!
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post #1439 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 09:03 PM
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I purchased mine from Project People as well. Really happy with the service provided and no issue whatsoever with my projector.

Only thing to keep in mind is the several weeks that you will have to wait to receive your rebate (check first and then the 3D glasses). But, it is all worth it at the end........really impressive picture, rebate check, a pair of glasses and one extra year of warranty.

Cheers!


Not too worried about the glasses. I have 2 pair from my panny tvs. wink.gif
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post #1440 of 3508 Old 03-21-2013, 09:33 PM
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Not too worried about the glasses. I have 2 pair from my panny tvs. wink.gif

Eh, while I was waiting for my glasses, I bought some glasses that were listed as compatible with IR 3D on Panny TV's. They didn't work with the projector. I think they use different systems.
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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