Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 79 - AVS Forum
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post #2341 of 3861 Old 10-30-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

It is removing one of the filters that allows for better color accuracy. Normal mode also does this on the Panasonic. With both the panny and jvc the general thing I have seen said is anything over 100" will result in an image to dim for 3d. Which probably means it will be like at a cinema. I did try a 110" scope screen with the ae8000 and it seemed bright enough in eco mode and cinema 1, but not as bright as I would like and am accustomed to with my BenQ.
That is not the case for me I have a 2.0 screen that is 125" wide for scope and 115" wide for 16x9 in a light controlled room and watched Pacific Rim Sunday which is 16x9. I watched it in normal with lamp on normal and it was plenty bright. I did see some cross talk but not in every screen. The worse was when they were speaking Chinese or whatever and had the sub titles in white. Some of the letters were underneath the letter in the word next to it but again not in every screen. I watch my Panasonic 55GT30 in THX mode anyway so like things close to reference and turn it to cemina1 for 3D. I would say the 3D is close to the TV but I will have to watch a few more to be sure.

I think I have a green convergence problem though as indicated by the focus pattern and the words in the menu all of the letters with horizontal letters like the letter E have the horizontal line is green. In the focus pattern the vertical lines are nice and crisp and the horizontal lines are blurry.
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post #2342 of 3861 Old 10-30-2013, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

It is removing one of the filters that allows for better color accuracy. Normal mode also does this on the Panasonic. With both the panny and jvc the general thing I have seen said is anything over 100" will result in an image to dim for 3d. Which probably means it will be like at a cinema. I did try a 110" scope screen with the ae8000 and it seemed bright enough in eco mode and cinema 1, but not as bright as I would like and am accustomed to with my BenQ.

I have my Sony 50ES projecting on my wall to 150" diagonal, 16:9 and have no issues with 3D brightness (watching at night, so no background light). I do get wall/ceiling reflections since both are white.
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post #2343 of 3861 Old 10-30-2013, 11:02 AM
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I have found that for my Panasonic these settings works best for me in 3D.

Normal color mode. (for the brightness) (color sliders tweaked a bit to make the colors a bit more natural)
Normal bulb mode. (again for brightness)
Fame creation Mode1. (to allow 3D motion remaster)
3D Motion Remaster Enabled. (to eliminate the parallax error)
Official panasinic 3rd gen glasses set to "light" mode. (again for brightness)

I find this to be bright enough for my 136" screen (I am also using the closest possible throw distance). My screen is self-built and painted so I do not know the gain performance. I'm guessing it's essentially 1.0

I rarely see crosstalk nor does my roomate or any of my family and guests that have seen a 3D movie here. I can see it occassionally sure, but I can count the number of times that I see it in any given movie on 1 hand and there are sometimes I can go an hour without seeing any at all. When I do see it it has never really been distracting enough to ruin anyone's experience though.

I'm throughly satisfied with the 3D performance of my 8000.

On a side note, normal doesn't look great in 2D, but through the 3D glasses I find I don't notice the less accurate colors so that's nice.
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post #2344 of 3861 Old 10-30-2013, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

I have found that for my Panasonic these settings works best for me in 3D.

Normal color mode. (for the brightness) (color sliders tweaked a bit to make the colors a bit more natural)
Normal bulb mode. (again for brightness)
Fame creation Mode1. (to allow 3D motion remaster)
3D Motion Remaster Enabled. (to eliminate the parallax error)
Official panasinic 3rd gen glasses set to "light" mode. (again for brightness)

I find this to be bright enough for my 136" screen (I am also using the closest possible throw distance). My screen is self-built and painted so I do not know the gain performance. I'm guessing it's essentially 1.0

I rarely see crosstalk nor does my roomate or any of my family and guests that have seen a 3D movie here. I can see it occassionally sure, but I can count the number of times that I see it in any given movie on 1 hand and there are sometimes I can go an hour without seeing any at all. When I do see it it has never really been distracting enough to ruin anyone's experience though.

I'm throughly satisfied with the 3D performance of my 8000.

On a side note, normal doesn't look great in 2D, but through the 3D glasses I find I don't notice the less accurate colors so that's nice.
is that 136" diagnal if so that matches me. What did you set screen size to I set mine to 140"
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post #2345 of 3861 Old 10-30-2013, 02:06 PM
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Yep, 136" diagonal and set to 140" in 3D settings.
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post #2346 of 3861 Old 10-31-2013, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

I have found that for my Panasonic these settings works best for me in 3D.

Normal color mode. (for the brightness) (color sliders tweaked a bit to make the colors a bit more natural)
Normal bulb mode. (again for brightness)
Fame creation Mode1. (to allow 3D motion remaster)
3D Motion Remaster Enabled. (to eliminate the parallax error)
Official panasinic 3rd gen glasses set to "light" mode. (again for brightness)

I find this to be bright enough for my 136" screen (I am also using the closest possible throw distance). My screen is self-built and painted so I do not know the gain performance. I'm guessing it's essentially 1.0

I rarely see crosstalk nor does my roomate or any of my family and guests that have seen a 3D movie here. I can see it occassionally sure, but I can count the number of times that I see it in any given movie on 1 hand and there are sometimes I can go an hour without seeing any at all. When I do see it it has never really been distracting enough to ruin anyone's experience though.

I'm throughly satisfied with the 3D performance of my 8000.

On a side note, normal doesn't look great in 2D, but through the 3D glasses I find I don't notice the less accurate colors so that's nice.








Your 3D experience & settings pretty much matches mine but with a 110" screen & normal setting for glasses which still seems bright enough for me on most films. My projector is not without problems but 3D performance isn't one of them.

Also love how deep the blacks are with the glasses on, I might start wearing sun glasses for 2D wink.gif
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post #2347 of 3861 Old 11-01-2013, 09:30 AM
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Also love how deep the blacks are with the glasses on, I might start wearing sun glasses for 2D wink.gif

Using a gray screen is easier on the eyes...
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post #2348 of 3861 Old 11-01-2013, 11:06 AM
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Running the cable direct will work. If you want to get full audio from your receiver while simultaneously playing 3D, you're going to either need a new receiver or a new Blu-ray player. The cheapest way to do it is to buy a twin-HDMI Blu-ray player, so you run one HDMI cable to the projector for 3D, and the other to the receiver for the audio.

Here's one such player, the Panasonic DMP-BDT330:

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-DMPBDT330-Upscaling-Blu-Ray-Player/dp/B00AYB3OOY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382671577&sr=1-2&keywords=bdt-230

Only bummer is you have to use different input on the projector so you'd have to switch input vs all your other devices I assume go through the receiver and out to HDMI 1 on your projector.

The alternative is to buy a new receiver, which might not be a terrible idea. The 607 is pretty old, now, in terms of the newer tech...

Williamg, Do you know if HDMI splitters work? SIIG makes one that can be had for $79.00 Seems to have decent reviews and specs to 4k

Well.... I researched it and finally understand that the 3D signal has the audio integrated into the signal stream differently than 1.3a and therefore splitting the signal will not work. So, fortunately won some money at the Senior Bowling Tournament this weekend and I'll put that toward a new receiver. Your appliances and cars know when you have money. biggrin.gif
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post #2349 of 3861 Old 11-03-2013, 05:39 AM
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G'day,

So it's almost time to order my screen to get made up and just want to make sure I get it right. I have ordered the panny 8000 already:). The screen size i'm liking is 110" 2.35:1 aspect giving me the below dims.

110" 2.35:1 screen
101.22" wide x 43.07" tall

On a 110" 2.35:1 screen, 16:9 content pillar boxed in the middle will be 76.57" wide x 43.07" tall, which is equivalent to an 88" 16:9 screen.

With 16:9 content I will have it taken care of with motorized side masking taking care of the 'black' side bars.

My question is, will there be any 'black' bars that will fall off the screen in 2.35:1? If it is minimal pixels like say the difference between 2.35:1 and 2.4:1, then that's ok I can deal with that. I'm just concerned as the natural aspect of the 8000 is 16:9 that the bars could roughly be 7" high top and bottom of a 2.35:1 image and would therefore require further masking.

Any help with this would be friggen awesome.eek.gif

Panasonic PT-AE8000 w Motorized Dipper
Panasonic P/THP65ST60A
110" 2.35:1 AT Motorized with Masking
Denon AVR4520
Denon DBT3313
Krix Surround 5.1
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post #2350 of 3861 Old 11-03-2013, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rzan View Post

G'day,

So it's almost time to order my screen to get made up and just want to make sure I get it right. I have ordered the panny 8000 already:). The screen size i'm liking is 110" 2.35:1 aspect giving me the below dims.

110" 2.35:1 screen
101.22" wide x 43.07" tall

On a 110" 2.35:1 screen, 16:9 content pillar boxed in the middle will be 76.57" wide x 43.07" tall, which is equivalent to an 88" 16:9 screen.

With 16:9 content I will have it taken care of with motorized side masking taking care of the 'black' side bars.

My question is, will there be any 'black' bars that will fall off the screen in 2.35:1? If it is minimal pixels like say the difference between 2.35:1 and 2.4:1, then that's ok I can deal with that. I'm just concerned as the natural aspect of the 8000 is 16:9 that the bars could roughly be 7" high top and bottom of a 2.35:1 image and would therefore require further masking.

Any help with this would be friggen awesome.eek.gif


Technically there will be minor black bars but they are that small I doubt you will notice them from normal viewing distances. In other words, don't worry about it.
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post #2351 of 3861 Old 11-03-2013, 06:54 AM
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When you do your adjustments for 2.35 you zoom the image to completely fill the screen. If your screen has velvet border like most than you can zoom right to the edge. 2.40 will have an inch or so border top and bottom
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post #2352 of 3861 Old 11-03-2013, 08:26 PM
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I just ordered this projector. Do you think it will fit on a mounted shelf 18" wide? I read it was 18.5" wide but it looks like the feet are closer together than that.

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post #2353 of 3861 Old 11-03-2013, 08:37 PM
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I just ordered this projector. Do you think it will fit on a mounted shelf 18" wide? I read it was 18.5" wide but it looks like the feet are closer together than that.
It'll fit just fine. wink.gif
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post #2354 of 3861 Old 11-03-2013, 08:53 PM
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It'll fit just fine. wink.gif

Thank you. I can't wait to get it. I purchased an Epson 8350 last week from best buy but still have over a week left on the return window. I liked it a lot but wanted to get something better.

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post #2355 of 3861 Old 11-04-2013, 08:12 AM
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I have a question for everyone. I am using the auto screen size and it was working great from 2.40 to 16x9 but when I was making adjustments for my AVR it went to 2.40 format on its own so I went into the menu and loaded 16x9 manually. I guess the set up screen on the Denon confused it or something. Now whenever I put in a disk I have to switch the format manually like the automatic is not working. Does anyone know what is up with this?
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post #2356 of 3861 Old 11-04-2013, 10:07 AM
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Seeing lots of 'focus issue' comments. Keep in mind that to get perfect sharp focus across the entire image is going to be next to impossible. It would take a perfect screen perfectly aligning both screen and projector, having a projector with perfectly aligned panels, and having a lens that could maintain perfect focus across the entire image. At this price point, that just isn't a realistic expectation. BcF6IDIf you are focusing while looking at the image from 1-3 feet away from screen, the goal is to get as much of the screen in sharp focus as possible with none of the screen totally out of focus (as in can't even resolve that it is text). What seems like 'bad' focus from 1-3 feet away when looking at pixel width detail will look fine from your normal viewing distance when viewing normal material. If you can see issues with normal material from your normal seating distance, that is a different matter.

Perhaps you do not understand the actual issue here.
The point is there are inconsistencies in the quality of how good the sharpness is across the entire screen.
And it appears to more much more common on the new (Chinese built) 8000 models
I can vouch for this as I owned a 7000 (made in japan), and it had a beautifully crisp picture from edge to edge.
I now (downgraded in my opinion) to the new (now made in China) 8000 model, and it is sharp on the right side of the screen, yet out of focus on the left.
It is most noticeable when you shift the menu around various parts of the screen, and the text is noticeably sharper in certain parts.
I did not have any such issue with my 7000, which I sadly no longer own.
So at this price point it can and has been achieved.
Perhaps it's the poor (quality control) during the assembly process that we commonly see coming out of Chinese factories that I have witnessed in my line of work (electronic repairs) over the past 15 years.
And now unfortunately for all us consumers, Panasonic (like so many other manufacturers) has decided to switch from quality built Japanese projectors over to cheap Chinese production.

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post #2357 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 07:06 AM
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I have a question for everyone. I am using the auto screen size and it was working great from 2.40 to 16x9 but when I was making adjustments for my AVR it went to 2.40 format on its own so I went into the menu and loaded 16x9 manually. I guess the set up screen on the Denon confused it or something. Now whenever I put in a disk I have to switch the format manually like the automatic is not working. Does anyone know what is up with this?
anyone?
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post #2358 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 07:32 AM
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anyone?

I'm really tired and can't sleep so maybe i'm missing something, but have you checked the auto change settings? Maybe you or someone else accidentally changed them.

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The point is there are inconsistencies in the quality of how good the sharpness is across the entire screen.

I have yet to see a projector in this price range that didn't have some inconsistencies in this regard. Maybe you got very lucky with you 7000 or very unlucky with your 8000, in any case at this price point the projected images will not be perfectly uniform when scrutinized.
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post #2359 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 09:05 AM
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I'm really tired and can't sleep so maybe i'm missing something, but have you checked the auto change settings?
As I said I did load the 16x9 using the load format option in the menu to see the Denon setup screen but thought the next time I inserted a disk it would go back to normal. Everything looks good in the auto change settings.
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post #2360 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
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As I said I did load the 16x9 using the load format option in the menu to see the Denon setup screen but thought the next time I inserted a disk it would go back to normal. Everything looks good in the auto change settings.
I have noticed that sometimes it takes longer for the 8000 to recognize the AR change and do the auto switch. In fact, some of the pre-movie trailers take so long to switch from 16:9 to 2.35:1, that it's almost over when the switch happens. It did take the longest for me after I had manually switched the setting. You might try turning the auto switching off, manually loading the 2.35 setting with a scope movie in, turning the auto switching back on, then switching to a 16:9 source. Can be a bit finicky sometimes...
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post #2361 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 01:32 PM
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post #2362 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 02:59 PM
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Today I finally had a chance to look at the Epson 6030, which is identical to the 5030 I was considering instead to the Panasonic. I saw the Panasonic a few weeks ago but the Epson was getting all the rave reviews so I needed to see for myself. I am going with an anamorphic solution, so it's an important decision for me.

Well, the Epson looked great. Definitely looked really really good. The black levels were great. They were BETTER than the Panasonic.

But you know what? For MY needs, It wasn't so earth-shattering that made me feel like I MUST have the Epson over the Panasonic. The Panasonic has pretty good black levels on its own right.

For me, other factors play a bigger role that lean me strongly towards the Panasonic now:

- The Panasonic has Lens memory. I have no need for an anamorphic lens with all the headaches of thinking how to mount the darn thing. It simplifies my setup considerably (And ofcourse, I don't need to spend around 3000$ for the lens!!)
- The Panasonic has a better frame interpolation algorithm. I was watching a movie on the Panasonic with FI set to low and found it to be very pleasing and cinematic. On the Epson, even at low setting it felt too Soap Opera to me. I like a good FI, especially since I'll be sitting close to the screen, so that's a big plus.
- Since I won't need an A-Lens, I'll be able to use a ceiling projector lift. The wife really wants to make it all go away when not in use since i'll be in the middle of our living room. Great WAF factor. Plus, when the lift is down, it'll be dead center in front of the screen, vertically and horizontally.
- The big new feature on the Epson 5030 is Frame Interpolation in 3D, but the Panasonic already had that a year ago. I thought maybe a projector would get me hooked on 3D. Watched 5 minutes of 3D on the Epson, with Frame Interpolation to make it smooth for less headaches, with all the extra lumens of 3D Dynamic mode, on a rather small 92" screen, and I STILL didn't like it. So, 3D is really becoming the last thing on my check list.
- The Panasonic has a better lag time for gaming.
- Cinema2 mode on the Panasonic gives out about 1100 lumens while keeping a rather cinematic color calibration, which is great for a big 140" screen like I intend to get.
- I loved the ability to play with the focus and zoom via the remote instead of doing it manually (will be impossible in my setup without a ladder).
- The Panasonic is cheaper.
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post #2363 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 03:31 PM
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^ one thing to be aware of is the panasonic isn't anywhere near 1100 lumens when providing for an accurate image. The Panasonic also uses epson parts. With that bieng said the Panasonic does seem to be a better fit for you, it may also be worth considering the x35 which does everything the ae8000 does but with better blacks (albeit with worse lag for gaming and a lack of CMS).
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post #2364 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 03:39 PM
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Thanks, Yes I know Cinema1 and REC709 are more correct color wise. But Cinema2 is probably a good compromise when needed. The 1100 lumens rating comes from various reviews, not sure if it's accurate or not.

The JVC indeed appears to be a great projector with great blacks, but it is my understanding that it won't be such a great solution for a living room setup, and fits better in a designated, black home theater. I'll occasionally have the projector running with lights on for sports and casual TV, not only movies. Plus, it's the tallest at 7" and is almost a mission impossible to purchase online - I'm buying in the US and shipping overseas. Just for reference, the price of an X35 here is 7100$. Seriously. The Panasonic is 4800$.
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post #2365 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 03:45 PM
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Thanks, Yes I know Cinema1 and REC709 are more correct color wise. But Cinema2 is probably a good compromise when needed. The 1100 lumens rating comes from various reviews, not sure if it's accurate or not.

The JVC indeed appears to be a great projector with great blacks, but it is my understanding that it won't be such a great solution for a living room setup, and fits better in a designated, black home theater. I'll occasionally have the projector running with lights on for sports and casual TV, not only movies. Plus, it's the tallest at 7" and is almost a mission impossible to purchase online - I'm buying in the US and shipping overseas. Just for reference, the price of an X35 here is 7100$. Seriously. The Panasonic is 4800$.

Where do you live? I thought Australia was bad but I can almost get x75 for that price let alone a x35. As for what is more suited for the projector, the jvc has more to gain from a proper black cinema like setup, both however are affected by less then stellar environments.

However if brightness is your main concern and you are willing to sacrifice black levels the w7000 (or soon to release w7500) may be an option worth looking into as the w7000 I believe has 1500 calibrated lumens. The image in bright scenes is easily better then the ae8000 as well, though dark scenes aren't as strong as its blacks aren't as good as I would like.
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post #2366 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 03:53 PM
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I live in Israel, projectors are really a niche market here. Add to that the added customs on projectors and you get a "rich people" economy. I love my country, but hate the costs here. I think I am ordering 80% of my electronics from abroad.

I don't know just how much brightness I'll need, for TV/Sports viewing I'll utilize the 16:9 area of a 140" 2.35:1 screen, so that's around 108". The panasonic will easily handle that size, not so sure about the JVC.

For movie watching, the room will be with all lights off, and the zoom function will project the image onto a 16:9 equivalent area of around 150". So, it'll be a dark room, but more screen to light up. I have complete control (at the moment) of placement because the remodeling makes it flexible, it won't be so simple in about 2 months.
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post #2367 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 04:00 PM
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I live in Israel, projectors are really a niche market here. Add to that the added customs on projectors and you get a "rich people" economy. I love my country, but hate the costs here. I think I am ordering 80% of my electronics from abroad.

I don't know just how much brightness I'll need, for TV/Sports viewing I'll utilize the 16:9 area of a 140" 2.35:1 screen, so that's around 108". The panasonic will easily handle that size, not so sure about the JVC.

For movie watching, the room will be with all lights off, and the zoom function will project the image onto a 16:9 equivalent area of around 150". So, it'll be a dark room, but more screen to light up. I have complete control (at the moment) of placement because the remodeling makes it flexible, it won't be so simple in about 2 months.

The JVC is brighter when calibrated. What is your viewing distance?
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post #2368 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 04:16 PM
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About 4 meters.
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post #2369 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 08:15 PM
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Today I finally had a chance to look at the Epson 6030, which is identical to the 5030 I was considering instead to the Panasonic. I saw the Panasonic a few weeks ago but the Epson was getting all the rave reviews so I needed to see for myself. I am going with an anamorphic solution, so it's an important decision for me.

Well, the Epson looked great. Definitely looked really really good. The black levels were great. They were BETTER than the Panasonic.

But you know what? For MY needs, It wasn't so earth-shattering that made me feel like I MUST have the Epson over the Panasonic. The Panasonic has pretty good black levels on its own right.

For me, other factors play a bigger role that lean me strongly towards the Panasonic now:

- The Panasonic has Lens memory. I have no need for an anamorphic lens with all the headaches of thinking how to mount the darn thing. It simplifies my setup considerably (And ofcourse, I don't need to spend around 3000$ for the lens!!)
- The Panasonic has a better frame interpolation algorithm. I was watching a movie on the Panasonic with FI set to low and found it to be very pleasing and cinematic. On the Epson, even at low setting it felt too Soap Opera to me. I like a good FI, especially since I'll be sitting close to the screen, so that's a big plus.
- Since I won't need an A-Lens, I'll be able to use a ceiling projector lift. The wife really wants to make it all go away when not in use since i'll be in the middle of our living room. Great WAF factor. Plus, when the lift is down, it'll be dead center in front of the screen, vertically and horizontally.
- The big new feature on the Epson 5030 is Frame Interpolation in 3D, but the Panasonic already had that a year ago. I thought maybe a projector would get me hooked on 3D. Watched 5 minutes of 3D on the Epson, with Frame Interpolation to make it smooth for less headaches, with all the extra lumens of 3D Dynamic mode, on a rather small 92" screen, and I STILL didn't like it. So, 3D is really becoming the last thing on my check list.
- The Panasonic has a better lag time for gaming.
- Cinema2 mode on the Panasonic gives out about 1100 lumens while keeping a rather cinematic color calibration, which is great for a big 140" screen like I intend to get.
- I loved the ability to play with the focus and zoom via the remote instead of doing it manually (will be impossible in my setup without a ladder).
- The Panasonic is cheaper.
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post #2370 of 3861 Old 11-05-2013, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by odedia View Post

Today I finally had a chance to look at the Epson 6030, which is identical to the 5030 I was considering instead to the Panasonic. I saw the Panasonic a few weeks ago but the Epson was getting all the rave reviews so I needed to see for myself. I am going with an anamorphic solution, so it's an important decision for me.

Well, the Epson looked great. Definitely looked really really good. The black levels were great. They were BETTER than the Panasonic.

But you know what? For MY needs, It wasn't so earth-shattering that made me feel like I MUST have the Epson over the Panasonic. The Panasonic has pretty good black levels on its own right.

For me, other factors play a bigger role that lean me strongly towards the Panasonic now:

- The Panasonic has Lens memory. I have no need for an anamorphic lens with all the headaches of thinking how to mount the darn thing. It simplifies my setup considerably (And ofcourse, I don't need to spend around 3000$ for the lens!!)
- The Panasonic has a better frame interpolation algorithm. I was watching a movie on the Panasonic with FI set to low and found it to be very pleasing and cinematic. On the Epson, even at low setting it felt too Soap Opera to me. I like a good FI, especially since I'll be sitting close to the screen, so that's a big plus.
- Since I won't need an A-Lens, I'll be able to use a ceiling projector lift. The wife really wants to make it all go away when not in use since i'll be in the middle of our living room. Great WAF factor. Plus, when the lift is down, it'll be dead center in front of the screen, vertically and horizontally.
- The big new feature on the Epson 5030 is Frame Interpolation in 3D, but the Panasonic already had that a year ago. I thought maybe a projector would get me hooked on 3D. Watched 5 minutes of 3D on the Epson, with Frame Interpolation to make it smooth for less headaches, with all the extra lumens of 3D Dynamic mode, on a rather small 92" screen, and I STILL didn't like it. So, 3D is really becoming the last thing on my check list.
- The Panasonic has a better lag time for gaming.
- Cinema2 mode on the Panasonic gives out about 1100 lumens while keeping a rather cinematic color calibration, which is great for a big 140" screen like I intend to get.
- I loved the ability to play with the focus and zoom via the remote instead of doing it manually (will be impossible in my setup without a ladder).
- The Panasonic is cheaper.

Sorry for the double post. I am considering these two projectors as well. In your opinion which projector had the best picture quality in 2d and 3d? Thanks for any response.
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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Epson 5020ub Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector , Jvc Dla X35 3d Hd Front Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae7000u 1080p Full Hd Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae4000u 1600 Lumen Lcd Home Theater Projector , Sony Vpl Hw50es 3d Projector , Darbeevision Darblet Hdmi Video Processor , Panasonic Ptae8000u Hd Projector
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