Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 109 - AVS Forum
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post #3241 of 3445 Old 03-10-2014, 03:55 PM
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The 50ES B Stock from AV Science showed up today. It took me less than an hour to get it installed where the VW50 was. Everything matched up, including my Navitar Screenstar .8 Conversion lens, and I'm totally blown away at how much better this PJ looks than anything I've yet seen. Makes my Panasonic P65VT50 look sad by comparison. I never thought a projector could look better than a plasma or as punchy as a Samsung LED-LCD, but this does.

 

The blacks on Aladdin (import) are velvety, the stars in Gravity punch through the blackness of space, and Avatar is a revelation. I'm going to look at Vertigo, Sunset Blvd, Casablance, The Right Stuff and Star Wars next. Curious to see what older, black and white looks like. I feel like a kind at Christmas!

 

I'm waiting for my Savant guys to come out and change my programming to send the 3D flag to the Theater. The PJ can't make sense of the signal currently. So more to come on that.

 

Mike - thank you for the super deal, a pre-calibrated PJ that's near perfect right out of the box, and fast shipping once you got them in from Sony.

 

More to come if you folks are interested. I do have a Canon 5D and can take some screen shots if anyone wants.


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post #3242 of 3445 Old 03-10-2014, 04:08 PM
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You are welcome Rich, enjoy. smile.gif

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post #3243 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich McCracken View Post

The 50ES B Stock from AV Science showed up today. I never thought a projector could look better than a plasma or as punchy as a Samsung LED-LCD, but this does.



 



EXACTLY!

I almost sometimes wonder if there's a QC issue at Sony given the seemingly wide range of satisfaction with the images produced by the 50 & 55.

Personally, mine is exceptional and I can't understand why I see posts where folks believe the Sony produces a soft image. I certainly don't have that perception at all.
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post #3244 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 06:46 AM
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Thanks a lot.......now I am considering this over the 30ES.....lol
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post #3245 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCpowerlifter View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich McCracken View Post
 

The 50ES B Stock from AV Science showed up today. I never thought a projector could look better than a plasma or as punchy as a Samsung LED-LCD, but this does.


 

 



EXACTLY!

I almost sometimes wonder if there's a QC issue at Sony given the seemingly wide range of satisfaction with the images produced by the 50 & 55.

Personally, mine is exceptional and I can't understand why I see posts where folks believe the Sony produces a soft image. I certainly don't have that perception at all.

 

Rich did say his was pre-calibrated.  It's difficult to discern from some posts if they're talking about OOTB settings or post calibration.  By all accounts, I haven't heard too many negatives wrt a calibrated 50ES and the OOTB settings are much better than others in a similar class.

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post #3246 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 08:25 AM
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One customer had to back out, so one HW50ES B-stock available. It is the last one.

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post #3247 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 11:18 AM
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One customer had to back out, so one HW50ES B-stock available. It is the last one.

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post #3248 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCpowerlifter View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich McCracken View Post

The 50ES B Stock from AV Science showed up today. I never thought a projector could look better than a plasma or as punchy as a Samsung LED-LCD, but this does.



 



EXACTLY!

I almost sometimes wonder if there's a QC issue at Sony given the seemingly wide range of satisfaction with the images produced by the 50 & 55.

Personally, mine is exceptional and I can't understand why I see posts where folks believe the Sony produces a soft image. I certainly don't have that perception at all.

I'm hoping it's a calibrated vs non-calibrated issue. After being out of town for over a month, I watched Inception and Human Planet on BluRay last night and was gravely disappointed at the picture quality, it was so distracting. I started to miss the PQ and overall crispness of my Samsung PN64D8000 (plasma)... But since I live in the middle of nowhere I will be ordering a Darbee and that Disney WOW BluRay soon, and pray that takes care of at least some of my disappointment.
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post #3249 of 3445 Old 03-11-2014, 09:55 PM
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Would you guys recommend a darbee for the VPL-HW50ES? Either standalone or built in to oppo? 

 

What screen is best for this projector? I have basement setup with full light control and fixed mount preferred. Want a diagonal size of 110" in 16:9 and then be able to switch to 2.35:1 at that same height (I believe that translates to 138" diagonal). 

 

This is my first projector and I'm very excited! Haven't powered it up yet and don't know what to fully expect or how to best calibrate it. 

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Would you guys recommend a darbee for the VPL-HW50ES? Either standalone or built in to oppo? 

What screen is best for this projector? I have basement setup with full light control and fixed mount preferred. Want a diagonal size of 110" in 16:9 and then be able to switch to 2.35:1 at that same height (I believe that translates to 138" diagonal). 

This is my first projector and I'm very excited! Haven't powered it up yet and don't know what to fully expect or how to best calibrate it. 

I use standalone Darbee with HW50ES. I use HW50 RC at min and Darbee at (I think) 40. With this set up, I find the image soft without Darbee. All the praise for the Darbee is not hyperbole.
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post #3251 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 04:46 AM
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I'm hoping it's a calibrated vs non-calibrated issue. After being out of town for over a month, I watched Inception and Human Planet on BluRay last night and was gravely disappointed at the picture quality, it was so distracting. I started to miss the PQ and overall crispness of my Samsung PN64D8000 (plasma)... But since I live in the middle of nowhere I will be ordering a Darbee and that Disney WOW BluRay soon, and pray that takes care of at least some of my disappointment.

 



Well you probably don't want to hear this but mine is using OOB settings and has not been calibrated. The picture is superb.

Could throw distance/screen also make a difference? Mine is sitting at the far end of the recommended range and projecting on to a 1.3 gain SI screen.
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post #3252 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 05:02 AM
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What is your throw distance? Screen recommendations (there is no best as there are performance variables that must be weighted to the users preference) depend on screen dimensions, room conditions, viewing positions, the model projector, height of projector with respect to the screen viewing locations etc. Usually posters will love whatever screen they decided to buy and strongly recommend it. Most have no clue as to how some other screen might, depending on their viewing priorities) would be better for them Beware.

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post #3253 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 05:23 AM
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What is your throw distance?.

 



Well, I'm not at home so can't be specific, but I'm right around 130" from a 110" screen. I just don't understand how so many folks are amazed at the picture quality and others seemingly have dismal thoughts with respect to black levels and sharpness.

All I can say is mine is absolutely stunning so I can't complain in the least.
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post #3254 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 06:48 AM
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What type of screen would you recommend for my specs above? (I have basement setup with full light control and fixed mount preferred. Want a diagonal size of 110" in 16:9 and then be able to switch to 2.35:1 at that same height (I believe that translates to 138" diagonal).)

 

Also, the Darbee worries me due to the potential added input lag.  I would be using my projector at times for gaming and that would really bug me.  Are there any side-by-side comparisons out there that show the effects of the Darbee and help display its value add?

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post #3255 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 08:07 AM
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What type of screen would you recommend for my specs above? (I have basement setup with full light control and fixed mount preferred. Want a diagonal size of 110" in 16:9 and then be able to switch to 2.35:1 at that same height (I believe that translates to 138" diagonal).)

Also, the Darbee worries me due to the potential added input lag.  I would be using my projector at times for gaming and that would really bug me.  Are there any side-by-side comparisons out there that show the effects of the Darbee and help display its value add?

At that size, I would want a screen with at least a true 1.3 gain or higher.

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At that size, I would want a screen with at least a true 1.3 gain or higher.

 

Hey Mike, why would you recommend a higher gain?  My viewing distance will most likely be 10 feet to 14 feet away, so pretty close, and lighting will be able to be fully controlled.  Is the higher gain to increase brightness?

 

I have a Sony VPL-HW50ES which has a decent light output from what I've seen in the specs.  Thanks for the help and info.

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post #3257 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 08:30 AM
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Hey Mike, why would you recommend a higher gain?  My viewing distance will most likely be 10 feet to 14 feet away, so pretty close, and lighting will be able to be fully controlled.  Is the higher gain to increase brightness?

I have a Sony VPL-HW50ES which has a decent light output from what I've seen in the specs.  Thanks for the help and info.

With 1.1 gain, 17 foot throw, 138" 2.35 screen and an A-lens, you are looking at 13/14 FL in low lamp and around 19/20 FL in high lamp. Like I said, it is workable.

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With 1.1 gain, 17 foot throw, 138" 2.35 screen and an A-lens, you are looking at 13/14 FL in low lamp and around 19/20 FL in high lamp. Like I said, it is workable.

 

Hey Mike, for a beginner such as myself could you briefly explain the acceptable FL for viewing?  Is there a separate thread or research that can be linked to if it's more complicated than a simple number range?

 

Still trying to determine if there is a cheaper option as well for the anamorphic lens than the CineVista.

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Hey Mike, for a beginner such as myself could you briefly explain the acceptable FL for viewing?  Is there a separate thread or research that can be linked to if it's more complicated than a simple number range?

Still trying to determine if there is a cheaper option as well for the anamorphic lens than the CineVista.

In a dedicated light controlled room, 12FL to 16FL is the accepted standard. Some people do like a higher light output than that, but that is the general standard. If you want to be able to stay in that range for a while (longer lamp life), you need to have more output than you need, so that once the lamp dims, you have a way to stay in that range. Now adding ambient light into the equation, means you need higher FL numbers. So, not so cut and dried.

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post #3260 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 10:39 AM
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With 1.1 gain, 17 foot throw, 138" 2.35 screen and an A-lens, you are looking at 13/14 FL in low lamp and around 19/20 FL in high lamp. Like I said, it is workable.
Mike, how are you calculating these numbers? I'm curious how many FL I'm getting in my setup. (1.1 gain, 130" wide 2.35, no lens, 15 foot throw.)

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Mike, how are you calculating these numbers? I'm curious how many FL I'm getting in my setup. (1.1 gain, 130" wide 2.35, no lens, 15 foot throw.)

Thanks.

Take the width of the scope screen and calculate the 16:9 area. Take the lumens output of the projector and multiply by the screen gain. Then divide that by the screen area calculated earlier. Take the number you get and multiply it by 1.2 due to the A-lens and that gives you the numbers above. You gain a little bit of light, since you are using the light from the black bars.
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post #3262 of 3445 Old 03-12-2014, 11:22 AM
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Take the width of the scope screen and calculate the 16:9 area. Take the lumens output of the projector and multiply by the screen gain. Then divide that by the screen area calculated earlier. Take the number you get and multiply it by 1.2 due to the A-lens and that gives you the numbers above. You gain a little bit of light, since you are using the light from the black bars.

Very informative, thanks Mike.

 

Regarding that Anamorphic lens mentioned, if I apply that to say a 110" diagonal picture at 16:9, will that adjust the image then to a 138" diagonal picture at 2.35:1 with the same height as the 110" 16:9 ratio picture, but just expanded outwards?  I am a bit confused on where the subtraction and gain are coming from when applying or remove the anamorphic lens.  Does one need to make adjustments as well digitally through the projector inputs, or simply add the lens for 2.35:1 ratio or remove for 16:9 as desired?

 

Sorry for my ignorance on the topic!

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Very informative, thanks Mike.

Regarding that Anamorphic lens mentioned, if I apply that to say a 110" diagonal picture at 16:9, will that adjust the image then to a 138" diagonal picture at 2.35:1 with the same height as the 110" 16:9 ratio picture, but just expanded outwards?  I am a bit confused on where the subtraction and gain are coming from when applying or remove the anamorphic lens.  Does one need to make adjustments as well digitally through the projector inputs, or simply add the lens for 2.35:1 ratio or remove for 16:9 as desired?

Sorry for my ignorance on the topic!

A 110" diagonal is 54" high. A 54" high 2.35 is (54 x 2.35) 126.9" wide. A 54" x 126.9" (2.35) is 138" diagonal.

With a fixed in place lens, you shrink the image using one of the anamorphic shrink modes on the projector. Then the image will fill the high of your 54" high screen. You will not be using full resolution of the projectors chip. When watching a scope movie, you stretch the image using the anamorphic mode of the projector. Now you are using all of the pixels on the chip.
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A 110" diagonal is 54" high. A 54" high 2.35 is (54 x 2.35) 126.9" wide. A 54" x 126.9" (2.35) is 138" diagonal.

With a fixed in place lens, you shrink the image using one of the anamorphic shrink modes on the projector. Then the image will fill the high of your 54" high screen. You will not be using full resolution of the projectors chip. When watching a scope movie, you stretch the image using the anamorphic mode of the projector. Now you are using all of the pixels on the chip.

 

I see.  So when watching a 16:9 program, such as normal HD Television/sports, if you have a fixed place anamorphic lens, will there be black bars on the sides in order to maintain proper formating?  I would have to get familiar with my Sony VPL-HW50ES to figure out how to switch back and forth between the 16:9 and 2.35:1 format output.

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I see.  So when watching a 16:9 program, such as normal HD Television/sports, if you have a fixed place anamorphic lens, will there be black bars on the sides in order to maintain proper formating?  I would have to get familiar with my Sony VPL-HW50ES to figure out how to switch back and forth between the 16:9 and 2.35:1 format output.

Yes, you have bars on the sides, when viewing 16:9 content.

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I'm absolutely loving my HW50! (13.5' throw, no lens, 130" JKP 1.3 gain)

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The maximum amount of vertical lens shift for the HW50ES, when using a 110" diagonal 16:9 screen is 11" above the image. This is without using any horizontal lens shift. That 6" and 4" will be cutting it close.

 

Hey Mike, just curious how you calculated this?  I am in the process of getting my HW50ES ready for mounting on a 2.4:1 format screen, 138" diagonal screen and will need to mount the projector as high up as possible.  How can you determine the maximum vertical/horizontal shift?

 

Thanks,


Eric

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Hey Mike, just curious how you calculated this?  I am in the process of getting my HW50ES ready for mounting on a 2.4:1 format screen, 138" diagonal screen and will need to mount the projector as high up as possible.  How can you determine the maximum vertical/horizontal shift?

Thanks,


Eric

Screen image height x 0.21. This is if you do not use any horizontal lens shift.

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post #3269 of 3445 Old 03-13-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post


Screen image height x 0.21. This is if you do not use any horizontal lens shift.

Thanks Mike, and stupid question, but this is the distance that the projector can be positioned from the very top of the projected image is that correct?  So the top of the image would be 11 inches or so below the vertical position of the projector?

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post #3270 of 3445 Old 03-13-2014, 04:01 PM
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Does anyone know if there is a way to re-set the 50ES back to its neutral position once you used the lens shift?
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