Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 112 - AVS Forum
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post #3331 of 3514 Old 04-05-2014, 05:14 PM
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From the sony site.


Inquiry if 2013 3D BRAVIA televisions compatible with the TDG-BR50/100/200/250/750 (3D glasses).
Answer
No, these are Infrared 3D glasses.
For 2013 3D BRAVIA televisions, Bluetooth 3D glasses are required to watch 3D content.

Note:
Infrared 3D Glasses (TDG-BR50/100/200/250/750) can be used for 2012/2011/2010 3D BRAVIA models.
While for 2013 3D BRAVIA TE and HG series, TDG-BT500A/400A 3D glasses models are required.

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post #3332 of 3514 Old 04-05-2014, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billqs View Post

I didn't think about the extra bulb. I would definitely try the other bulb before shipping off.

Just tried the spare bulb, and it also has the 'flicker' after a while - but back to the way the original bulb was at the beginning. When it does start to flicker, I could switch to high bulb for a while and then back to low and the flicker would be gone.
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post #3333 of 3514 Old 04-05-2014, 10:05 PM
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Does anyone have a list of the glasses that are compatible with the VPL-HW50ES?
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post #3334 of 3514 Old 04-06-2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andytmlr80 View Post

Does anyone have a list of the glasses that are compatible with the VPL-HW50ES?

Playstation 3 glasses work...pretty inexpensive too.

I have 6 prs of PS3 glasses and the 2 prs that came with the 50.
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post #3335 of 3514 Old 04-06-2014, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

Just tried the spare bulb, and it also has the 'flicker' after a while - but back to the way the original bulb was at the beginning. When it does start to flicker, I could switch to high bulb for a while and then back to low and the flicker would be gone.

There might be one other thing you could check in the menu. If you have "Film Projector" on in you Motion Flow menu, I would set it to off and see if that ends the flicker.

Other than that, if it's flickering on the 2nd bulb you tried as well, I think it's time to place a warranty repair claim. My 50ES is pretty new and it has absolutely no flicker at all.
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post #3336 of 3514 Old 04-07-2014, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffleonard View Post

Playstation 3 glasses work...pretty inexpensive too.

I have 6 prs of PS3 glasses and the 2 prs that came with the 50.
The PS3 glasses work great. I ended up using them more than the Monster RF one's I bought.

Amazon has these for about $21 right now, (here) although I've seem them for as low as $18.

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post #3337 of 3514 Old 04-08-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NCpowerlifter View Post

Gravity 3D was simply superb....

Boy, you aren't kidding. My wife and I watched it over the weekend and were amazed by the quality of the 3D picture! The Sony really shined!
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post #3338 of 3514 Old 04-08-2014, 06:16 PM
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Currently have an Epson 5010. Seriously considering swapping it out for one of these bad boys. Don't like the pixel structure of the Epson, seems like such a massive gap between the pixels that it doesn't appear overly clear or smooth. Very jaggy.

Any recommendations on where to look for a competitive price?
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post #3339 of 3514 Old 04-08-2014, 07:30 PM
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Shooting a 110" 16:9 and viewing from about 9'..... Even before I pro-calibrated the setup, no image degradation due to fpd limitations.

Better pj's out there? Sure. Bang for the buck, even if you have to swim with a (55es)? Very tight call.

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post #3340 of 3514 Old 04-13-2014, 08:26 PM
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First time seeing this 'please clean the filter" message on screen, is it normal?
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post #3341 of 3514 Old 04-13-2014, 08:35 PM
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"First time seeing this 'please clean the filter" message on screen, is it normal?"

Yep, a snap and very very important to do.

Refer to your om for procedure. Mild soap and water, dry it and replace. No need to purchase anything new.

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post #3342 of 3514 Old 04-13-2014, 10:15 PM
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I believe it is a message that appears after a certain number of operating hours and does not necessarily indicate thatr your filter is dirty. But nevertheless I strongly agree that you should clean the filter regardless of how it looks.

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post #3343 of 3514 Old 04-14-2014, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post

"First time seeing this 'please clean the filter" message on screen, is it normal?"

Yep, a snap and very very important to do.

Refer to your om for procedure. Mild soap and water, dry it and replace. No need to purchase anything new.

Doug k


Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I believe it is a message that appears after a certain number of operating hours and does not necessarily indicate thatr your filter is dirty. But nevertheless I strongly agree that you should clean the filter regardless of how it looks.





Thanks guys.
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post #3344 of 3514 Old 04-15-2014, 08:33 AM
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Recently I watched Gravity 3D and noticed a lot more ghosting than usual on my projector. After trying some more 3D movies (Dredd, Brave, Hobbit Part 1&2, Hugo, Life of Pi) it appears there is always a very apparent ghost image. 3D used to be almost ghost free.

Sony replaced the power supply and lamp two months ago because of a flickering issue in low lamp mode, but they said they the two are not related.

For troubleshooting purposes I tried two pairs of 3D glasses (TDG-PJ1) fully charged, changed HDMI Cables, removed my receiver (Onkyo NR-TX818) from the chain. Since I am using a HTPC I ruled out driver/software related issues, I still have to try a standalone blu-ray player. But the amount of ghosting remains the same. The Infrared emitter is working and my glasses are syncing. I will try my spare lamp later today to see if it makes a difference.

My projector is 10 months old. Sony replaced two lamps and a power supply in that time.

Does anyone experience a problem with increased ghosting?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers
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post #3345 of 3514 Old 04-15-2014, 04:13 PM
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I am wiring everything up myself. What is the best way to communicate with control4? I see it has an IR port. Anyone else using C4 and the 50es?

Thanks,
Ray
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post #3346 of 3514 Old 04-24-2014, 02:48 PM
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Hi folks,

I have a Sony HW50 (European model). I love it but there is one problem. I'm projecting on a screen without black borders but it seems that the projected image has a own bright border. The projected image is around 70", the bright/white border is 2,7". Is this normal? Just a black image is the best way to check it. My previous projector (optoma hd25) hadn't such a border on the projected image. Thanks for your response!
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post #3347 of 3514 Old 04-25-2014, 07:41 AM
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You have adjusted the zoom/focus?

Do you see this with the pattern?

Is the pj far enough away from the screen? (Check the manual)

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post #3348 of 3514 Old 04-25-2014, 08:03 AM
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So your content ALWAYS has a "nearly 3 inch white border" projected around the perimeter?


Hmmm...Overscan setting is not correct? It's in the menus. Is this across both inputs and does it include other devices, such as a BD player or a DVD Player or....?

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post #3349 of 3514 Old 04-29-2014, 09:37 AM
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Just did a calibration with around 1500 hours on the Sony and still getting 19FL in low lamp mode. Screen is 110" and it's mounted almost as close as it can be, still plenty bright!
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post #3350 of 3514 Old 04-29-2014, 02:31 PM
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Hi,
When I replace the lamp on menu, the lamp hours is reset to zero.
How can I check how many hours the projector works (Although I reset the lamp hours) ?
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post #3351 of 3514 Old 04-29-2014, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post

You have adjusted the zoom/focus?

Do you see this with the pattern?

Is the pj far enough away from the screen? (Check the manual)

Doug k
Yes, I'm using the focus and zoom. The border is also with the pattern. I'm projecting 70" from 3,5 meters.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadRusch View Post

So your content ALWAYS has a "nearly 3 inch white border" projected around the perimeter?


Hmmm...Overscan setting is not correct? It's in the menus. Is this across both inputs and does it include other devices, such as a BD player or a DVD Player or....?
Yep, always. Overscan is completely correct and it's across hdmi input 1 & 2 on all devices.

It is impossible to photograph it, you can see it very clearly on a black image but it completely disappears on a photograph. My dealer says it is also on the HW40 and HW55 but I find it hard to believe. Especially because there is no one else on the internet with this problem. Should I contact Sony about this? I'm a student and spared almost 2 years for the projector. The image quality is perfect but the borders are very distracting.
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post #3352 of 3514 Old 04-29-2014, 08:00 PM
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Hmmm........

If you can connect a PC to the projector, can you try forcing some non-standard resolutions?

Like send it a 720p signal, see what the border looks like....send it a 3k signal (the Sony will accept it, I've gamed at that resolution and let the Sony scale down the image back to 1080p) and see if that affects it.
Also, send it a 59hz 1080p signal instead of a 60hz one or vice-versa, whatever the norm is for your equipment and region of course... smile.gif

If it were the lens, I would suspect the border would never disappear, not even for photos...like some strange light-bleed situation.......I'm also assuming there is nothing on the screen itself that might be refracting the light at the edges....

Just some guesses but.....all I've got right now. Good Luck, and yes....you bought an expensive piece of equipment, I'd absolutely see what Sony has to say, but I'd call your dealer first (assuming you had one) and see what they say first.

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post #3353 of 3514 Old 04-29-2014, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post

Just did a calibration with around 1500 hours on the Sony and still getting 19FL in low lamp mode. Screen is 110" and it's mounted almost as close as it can be, still plenty bright!

950 hours here. Still on low lamp too.
Image is bright and crisp.
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post #3354 of 3514 Old 05-01-2014, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sufgi123 View Post

Hi,
When I replace the lamp on menu, the lamp hours is reset to zero.
How can I check how many hours the projector works (Although I reset the lamp hours) ?

Enter the Service Menu - DO NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS smile.gif

Press Enter-Enter-Left-Enter on your remote, and it will ask if you want to enter service mode. Answer "Yes", and you're in

You will go to the same place to view your bulb hours and you will see how many hours on are the projector itself...
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post #3355 of 3514 Old 05-11-2014, 04:11 PM
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So I'm not anywhere near needing another lamp, but I thought I'd search for a backup just in case. Newegg and Amazon have the Sony OEM (LMP-H202) for $1100!! eek.gif Is that right? What's the street price on these?

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post #3356 of 3514 Old 05-11-2014, 07:51 PM
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post #3357 of 3514 Old 05-12-2014, 02:21 PM
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A lot of people say that the black levels on this PJ are one of the relative strong points, especially to DLPs. However I haven't been impressed at all with the black levels. My room gets pretty dark, the back wall and ceiling above the screen about 4' are painted matte, and recently I even put some velvet around the sides and over some stuff near the screen to minimize reflections. I still don't get very dark blacks, and its especially apparent with widescreen movies since I can see the "black" bars.

Any tips or settings I could use to get better black levels? The iris is on whatever the default setting is (I think full) and I typically use Film 1, occasionally Film 2 depending on the content.

Will "calibrating" with the Disney WOW disc help or is that only for color settings? I have the blu-ray but haven't had time yet to run it.

Thanks!

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post #3358 of 3514 Old 05-12-2014, 07:25 PM
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Have you made sure you have everything set to standards that will help you get better blacks? Cinema Film 1 uses something like "Gamma 8" which seemed at IMHO to brighten the image a good bit. I use Reference mode, BT709 for color space, D65 for color temp and then set gamma around 2.2-2.4. If you're doing 3D you won't get a really deep black floor because the auto iris is turned off when playing 3D. Go ahead and go into Cinema Black Pro and set the auto iris to Auto Full. If you still don't have deep enough blacks you can set the iris manually to clamp down.

The Wow disc contains patterns to help set contrast and brightness as well as color. What I found was that the Sony was meeting these pretty well right OOTB.
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post #3359 of 3514 Old 05-12-2014, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billqs View Post

Have you made sure you have everything set to standards that will help you get better blacks? Cinema Film 1 uses something like "Gamma 8" which seemed at IMHO to brighten the image a good bit. I use Reference mode, BT709 for color space, D65 for color temp and then set gamma around 2.2-2.4. If you're doing 3D you won't get a really deep black floor because the auto iris is turned off when playing 3D. Go ahead and go into Cinema Black Pro and set the auto iris to Auto Full. If you still don't have deep enough blacks you can set the iris manually to clamp down.

The Wow disc contains patterns to help set contrast and brightness as well as color. What I found was that the Sony was meeting these pretty well right OOTB.

Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, that's what I thought about the WOW disc - mostly for color calibration.

It was my understanding that the default "Reference" setting was the same as Cinema 1 - Though I think its actually "User" that is the same. I will go in and adjust those settings and see how it looks using "reference" as a base. Also, I have only watched 3d once so that is not an issue. Thank you!

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post #3360 of 3514 Old 05-12-2014, 09:39 PM
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I also disabled the iris with it set to fully closed. Not sure, but I imagine that will improve the contrast at the cost of some brightness?
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